Winter Bushcraft Skills: Tree Felling For Firewood
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- paulkirtley.co.uk
Watch this video for more winter axe and saw skills: Locating and felling a dead-standing tree, then processing this into portable sections, ultimately for use as firewood.
Great video, from the Rocky mountains of British Columbia!
Thanks and best wishes. You live in a spectacular part of the world :-)
Hi Ciaran,
It's good to hear from you. Thanks for your kind words about my video.
Warm regards,
Paul
Right, I forgot that your saw was a bucksaw type with the cross bar, so yes, agreed! I am so used to using bow saws (deeper), so I was just not thinking about the buck saw shape! With my bow saws I sometimes get into that depth issue too, so I have to sometimes notch out the top of a cut with the axe, to allow the saw to run deeper. Lovely area you are camping there in northern Sweden!
Well done! I would have added note about the hinge you created with the cut, shown at 5:14. The hinge is a big part of felling the tree where you want, and for safety. Your saw indeed could have cut up the entire trunk - it cut it down across the standing base ;-) but I appreciate the opportunity for showing axe cross cut technique. If the saw ever breaks, the axe will need to be used, and so axe cross cut practice is good!
Very good, Paul. Learned a lot and I like your vuoddaga, and now i see how to wear them. A friend is making me a pair :-)
Great video Paul, you're better at felling and snedding trees than some foresters I work with!
Paul Woodgate Thanks Paul. Nice compliment :-)
Yes, the hinge is critical. The saw, however, only cut half the "standing base". The rest was done with the axe. While the saw has the length to do it, it doesn't have the depth. You'd have to rotate the trunk to cut from both sides and larger trees are too heavy to do this, particularly on snow. But yes, good to practice with the axe anyway! ;)
Hi Paul, thanks. Glad you liked the video and I appreciate your comment. The next one is in the pipeline. I've just been over to your channel and subscribed. All the best, Paul
Thanks. Yes, when the snow conditions are like this, it's wonderful.
Thanks and glad to have you on board :)
Hi Elen, Glad you liked it. Vuoddaga and Arran socks - great in combination with my boots! :-)
Great!
I didn't mean to criticize in any way, you've got a great video here and you gave a few tips that I didn't even consider before. Definitely worth watching. I'll take a look at your other videos too when I find the time :)
Hi there, yep that's a good tip. I think it comes down to what works for you, as well as having the flexibility to use the tools available. I'm certainly not precious and will use what is to hand. The reason I like a folding bucksaw is that it is compact for packing. But it certainly isn't the only option. I'll check out your channel. Warm regards, Paul
Thanks. Glad you liked it. Hope to see you soon.
Fantastic video Paul... some great tips in there and very well presented! looking forward to the next one... cheers, all the best. Paul.
Hi Martin, that's a very good point. I did remove layers but I don't think I explicitly mentioned this in the video, so thanks for mentioning it. I cover heat loss, hypothermia and cold injuries in depth on my blog. Warm regards,
Paul
new subscriber man, you do awesome work 🤘
Thank you for the feedback mate! Much appreciated. Sounds like I need to move Yorkshire up my agenda! ;-)
That's interesting to note. Thanks for pointing it out. I'll look into it....
Great video!
Just wanted to add that if in a survival situation it would be smart to take off some clothes before starting to chop wood. Otherwise all your clothes will be moist (if not soaking) with sweat and if it's not wool, it'll lose its insulative properties.
Hi there Ade. Thanks for your questions.
Yes, I could have used a larger axe (if I'd had one). Check out my other videos for why I favour this size though.
Saws can become stuck if the tree is leaning back. It's down to you to select a tree carefully that is unlikely to do this. If it does, there are methods of dealing with it but they are beyond the scope of this video, which shows only the basic technique for a straightforward example.
hi paul i enjoyed your vid looking forward to seeing more
I agree with your assertion that you should only harvest trees that you can easily process with the cutting tools you have at hand. I was going to say that you could have cut the tree down with the saw entirely, including the face cuts.
My preference for a winter wood processing saw, is a coarse cut carpenters hand saw. The cut fast and straight. There is no depth of cut issue and the blade is very unlikely to break. Check out my channel for a couple of videos of my tools of choice.
Thanks Paul :)
Professional instructions?.......well that's why I'm watching your video Paul! lol
+WELSBY ROOTS :-)
Hi there, yes you do need to be super careful. Thanks for your comment.
Hi Paul Im from Poland and Bushcraft is my second live. You made great videos. I like and sub :)
I'm only 15 years old, but this really interests me. I would love to do this kind of stuff. Some day :)
Welcome and glad you like my channel. Let me know if you have questions.
Hi Richard, thanks for your comment. :-) I'm very happy you enjoyed this one. I will indeed try to post more often. In answer to your questions - This was filmed in northern Sweden (you can come with me next year if you want to); I've edited the description to include the location; I was using the GB Scandinavian Forest Axe (watch this space for a video about why I love this axe); Yorkshire? I would love to. Maybe once the new courses in the Lakes bed down.... ;-)
Fantastic video Paul. I hope to do a course with you ASAP
Love your videos. Simple to follow, no nonsense, right to the facts. Wish you'd post more frequently. Couple of questions: where was this filmed, what axe were you using and will you please set up a bushcraft school in Yorkshire? ;-)
That is true the axe follows the same trajectory. However when swinging from your knees, the axe can't arc past horizontal without hitting the ground first. So in essence it would be a freak accident to get hit by an axe chopping while swinging from both of your knees.
Say Heah Pauley, Yeah I know I've been posting alot, But I need to explain myself, I had a Thin 5" face heavy Iltis Oxhead hanged on a 19" White Hickory Handle, You see I wanted something compact, but yet substantial for felling a tree (when need to be). As it turned out the shear weight of it the thing split's pretty good and the weight makes short work of it when wood processing and making kindling, And Yet, even though the head belongs on a longer haft, Yeah, it does take longer to chop down a reasonable size dead fall, it still can be done reasonably well. I find on striking implements that the weight plays a very important part in it. For instant a 1 1/2lbs 26"-28" only has a little more advantage than like my House Axe that has around a 2 3/4lbs head on a 19" haft. Maybe the geometry plays alot too, mine is a very thin head, but carries enough weight that Yes it does split, Also it has enough weight to bite deep, and that ofcource helps when I fell a dead fall. But actually, I had it made because I wanted a compact size to punch hard, Sure you have to rob Peter to pay Paul, tit for tat and all that, Like I have nentioned, Almost everybody told me it wouldn't split and I ruined a good axe to put a smaller haft on it, I just wish you could experience what I know with it, It does feel a little off balance and that it's a little top heavy, but once you got that swing, it means all that thing, I know that's not how the song goes, but I think you know what I mean, , ,
Do you think the performance you get out of that axe is the most it is capable of?
Are you saying that you, per definition, leave a higher stump if you chop standing up? If so, that is not true.You can fell the tree just as close to the ground standing as you can from your knees. And with much, much more power.
Ah, I see the mis-communication we are having. I was referring to chopping on your knees when you were splitting pieces of the tree when it is already on the ground and swinging in an overhead manner.
As for when he is initially chopping the front face cut, I suspect he is on his knees, so it he gets closer to the base of the tree without having to bend over or swing his axe on a downward angle.
You'd be hitting a gap in the market if you started courses in Yorkshire - there's nothing around this neck of the woods. A few in Derbyshire that I'm aware of, but nothing IN Yorkshire.
This is a great video Paul, good felling technique and you alert the viewer to the amount of effort required to process a tree of this size into useable sized pieces. Just one comment based on my experience. When temperatures drop to -20C if there is moisture in the tree it can be very brittle and branches can drop off (a 2" diameter branch falling from 20 feet can injure a person quite badly). Is the forest in this video a monoculture or are there a variety of species and if so, what do you consider your best option?
I live in an environment like this amongst Spruce, Birch, Balsam Fir, Vine Maple Trees. I am experimenting a few things such as, is it better to fall and buck up larger diameter trees, or slim trees (lets say 3" to 6") from an energy perspective...do more slimmer logs in larger numbers burn as efficiently and/or longer than wider logs that have to be split with an axe into quarters? I have noticed that in my forest I have some overcrowded trees that are about 6" diameter but over 60 feet tall, on investigation the annular rings are very tight indicating that the trees are about 40 to 50 years old, does this mean that the wood being harder/denser will burn longer? For the record I burn seasoned Aspen when I want low smoke (it burns less hot than Birch, but cleaner than Birch). Spruce burns hot, but quick and throws a lot of sparks (a good reason not to wear synthetic clothing...I have destroyed some nice kit)! Best Wishes, WS (BC Canada)
Would't have been better cutting up the tree from the top first after felling it ?
Could you have used a larger axe to make it easier and faster ?
What about the saw becoming stuck in the cut sometimes when you use this method of utilising 2 tools for one job ? Maybe the saw blade can get stuck when the tree leans back ?
I was just wondering..... :-)
Indeed that was the case.
Splitting standing up is also not inherently dangerous.
If he is on his knees to be more comfortable, I would suggest a lawnchair. That would be awesome.
It's much safer to chop from your knees. Less chance of have a missed swing come back and get you in the leg.
Very noice vid, basic and informative
Thanks Mr Hat! :)
Maybe I'll make one next time I'm there... ;)
this guy actually looks like he knows what he's doing
oly loly Thank you.
I had a good friend who was felling a dead standing tree one fine day. He was found stone cold dead from a massive blow to the head that evening because of a dead branch coming down from above and crushing his skull. You do not want to strike a dead tree without being certain of what`s up above your head. He might have surveyed the situation. There`s no indication he did. The man is foolish and irresponsible to show this on youtube.
This guy doesn`t know what he`s doing.
1fanger If you watch the video, even though the footage is edited, you can see that I look up and assess the tree.
Even so, why flame people on the internet? Who the hell are you? You do not even use your real name. The internet is full of anonymous cowards, most of whom are armchair experts.
If you want to be rude to someone, you can come and do it to my face. You are the one with the dead friend. You could say it was him that did not know what he was doing but that would be harsh, or more realistically, he was just unlucky.
Outdoor activities are not without risk. The experienced outdoorsman/woman respects that fact and does their best to mitigate the risk.
You are absolutely right that you should be sure of what's above you. Felling any tree - dead or alive - is a risky business. There is no way around that fact.
May I respectfully suggest you wind your neck in until the day you post a video showing your superior technique.
Scots Pine.
Why don't you start the front cut with the saw? I make the horisontal cut first with the saw then use the axe to open it up. That way i get off bigger chunks of wood with less effort and it's way faster.
Same when cutting the trunk in smaller pieces if the saw isn't big enough.
Great video :)
+Jari Juntunen Good question. Because sometimes I have had the saw pinched and stuck with a front cut. But I admit with a dead standing tree which is pretty straight and not leaning (like the one in the video) is is least likely to occur. Warm regards, Paul
Great video Paul! So i expect in total this is at least 4-6 hours work to get it fully processed. How long would the wood from this tree last you when heating a stove? Also i'd imagine that time would be much less if you were burning the wood on an open fire in camp.. Have you tried this? Cheers, Jack
Jack McCormack Hi Jack, I would say a bit less time than that to process Jack. While the larger sections were made with an axe in situ, a saw was used back down near the tent to cut it up into lengths that will fit in the stove. Two of us work on this at a time. Also, we are careful to cut between knots where possible to make splitting easier. A tree this size will run the stove continuously for 3 days in cold weather. In would be gone in less than 24 hours on an open fire. A long log fire would consume it overnight. You can see the latter here: paulkirtley.co.uk/2014/arctic-lean-to-shelter-revisited/ Hope this helps. Warm regards, Paul
Thanks Paul! I love your video's, are you planning any more some time soon? I read about your canoe expedition in Canada on your Blog this morning and it was fascinating! May i ask, do you know the best way to go around an open fire in the UK? Is a long log fire necessary or not? I have had several fires overnight of many different types, and i found the long log was the most hassle. Cheers, Jack
Jack McCormack Hi Jack, thanks for your comments. I'm glad you are enjoying my videos and articles. Yes, I do have some more videos planned. You don't really need a long log fire in the UK. Even if you need some extra warmth for sleeping out in the winter months, you don't need big logs the size of which you need in the boreal forest, where temperatures can easily drop to 30 or 40 below. Cheers, Paul
I'm hoping to go out to Canada for my gap year to totally submerge myself in a world of hunting and bushcrafting. Whether i go in winter is a different question all together! Looking forward to your video's. Cheers, Jack
Why wouldn't you use the axe to remove just enough wood to get your saw in there to finish the job?
+Josh Edwards Hey Josh, yes you can do this. With larger trees, I often do. The trunk is too large a diameter for my saw so I cut a nice V-notch out and then cut the remainder with the saw. You just have to be mindful of the saw blade being pinched of course. But, yes, it's valid to do what you are suggesting. ATB, Paul
Hi Paul
Could you make a vid on you actually doing a wild camp
Kalum Withey Hi Kalum, I'm sure I can do that, yes. Are you asking for a wild camp in a winter environment such as the one depicted in the above video, or something a little closer to home? Let me know... Warm regards, Paul
Hi Paul Thanks for your reply. It would be good to see you doing one in both environments and see the gear changes you will make to go to a slightly warmer environment.
Thanks
Kalum
Kalum Withey OK, Kalum, understood. I'll add your suggestions to my list. Thanks and keep in touch. All the best, Paul
Good technique at 11:15 :-)
Maybe I would have to kneel down to axe section it, but less strenuous on your back also, , ,
It isn't.
I dont see how. The axe follows the same basic trajectory in relation to your body whether yoy stand or kneel.
If you follow basic safety rules and look at what you are doing, chopping standing is not dangerous.
i thought he was ray mears at first
is that the GB scandinavian forest axe? thanks
Will Lawrence Hi Will, yes it is the GB Scandinavian Forest Axe. I talk more about my choice of axe for winter camping and travel here: czcams.com/video/JCtuLlBtjRw/video.html Warm regards, Paul
Paul Kirtley
Ah great thanks a lot! As always your videos are great and rely helpfull!!!! :)
Will Lawrence My pleasure Will. I'm happy you are finding my videos useful.
Whereabouts was this filmed?
Hi Toby, it was filmed in northern Sweden. ATB, Paul.
Paul Kirtley Apologies, I should have been a little more specific! Which region of Northern Sweden? Many thanks!
No worries Toby Cowern .... it was filmed in Lappland.
I guess you might use your saw when you have chopped half of the trunk to save energy.
Believe it or not, I could bring down a tree that size with my House Axe, Yet it's compact, portable and more than sufficient splitter, go figure, Boy I wish you could experience what I mean, , ,
Wonderful basecamp! I would love to see a video on it! :)
Best Regards,
David
Ok David, I'll add it to my to-do list.
Felling trees on your knees? This is so ridiculous! :D
I know i as a 14 year old shouldn't be telling this to a bushcraft expert with 25+ years of experience but watching you swing that axe when initially felling the tree was a bit painful to watch, the reason i'm saying that is because when you swing an axe you let your left hand (for righties, your right if you are a lefty) slide up to the shoulder of the haft when you're swinging the axe up and you let your hand slide from the shoulder while pushing the axe forward in to the wood with your hand as it slides from the shoulder to your good hand, and consider taking it easy it's not a lumberjack competition you want to go slow to avoid exhaustion and overheating. I hope you get what i'm trying to say basically don't have both of your hands at the end of the handle that wastes energy as it doesn't let you take full advantage of the weight and isn't very accurate.
ZombieFighterOf1987 With a heavier axe, I'd agree with you. I'm pretty strong, though. I have strong wrists and forearms, developed from many years of both martial arts and woodcraft. For me this is light axe and it moves fast. I do sometimes use it as you suggest, lifting the axe from the head, particularly when sectioning (you can see this later in the video) but sometimes not. You're also right regarding pacing oneself and not overheating. But what is exertion for one person is a quick routine job for others and it depends on your level of specific conditioning. ATB, Paul
Why are you on your knees, choppin? Seems incredibly unefficient.