Wire brush to get rid of most of the loose scale, tgen brush or roller depending on how much surface you need to cover. It is a farm tractor and not a show car
Well most tractors had their frames and running gear painted in one go, id say manually wire brush the thing, before reassembly, re fit everything that isn’t tinwork and go to town with a sprayer. Works for me although I do chemically strip the old paint first.
You add something to the CZcams world that is quite rare: You are completely articulate when describing your work. In addition to that is your dry sense of humor. I enjoy sarcasm-when not directed at someone else to their detriment. Self-deprecating humor is a fine art, No?
I would defo replace that gear, now you have had it in parts the next time you strip it down it will take no time. You will regret not replacing the gear in time to come.
Gear if full of minute fractures and will fail and spread metal through the gearbox . Your not saving time or money. Do it right the first time is cheaper
I am really enjoying your D4 rebuild video. It seems a pity not to change that one damaged gear after you have gone so far and it is easy to get at. Thanks for sharing your journey.
I'm just realizing now I cut out a bunch of footage about that gear... there is only like a 3 second clip of me smoothing it, lol. It's 2nd gear, and I I figured out that you can change it without removing the top shaft (I think). I'm still trying to source it, but in the mean time I need the top shaft in to fix some other stuff.
Here are a couple of suggestions that will ease your mind on the gearing. First, I have filed and stoned chipped transmission gears many times and have had no problems, but there is a trick. As you know, the trick is to do it so that the gears are not cutting into one another and this is how you check for gear contact. Step 1. Do get the gear cluster in the transmission back in place and torqued in but do not go much further. Step 2. Reinstall the ring gear, clutches, and clutch brakes after you rebuild them, but don't bolt the clutches up solid to the finals just yet. Step 3 Use the clutch brakes to put a light load on the transmission and use something to turn the transmission at a slow speed using the chipped gear in question. While turning the transmission under load, listen for a thunking or popping sound from the chipped gear. If there is no sound, you are good and the gears won't cut each other. If there is a pounding or thunking sound, well... it is up to you, It deepens on how much you intend to use the machine versus the knowledge of what it takes to get back into the transmission and replace both gear clusters after they destroy each other. Step 4. Take the time to check the pinion and ring gear lash if you have a dial mic. Also, in a quick way of checking gear tracking, you can use either gun bluing or axle grease to check the heal and toe contact between the gear teeth. There should be pictures in your manual and steps on how to proceed. Personally, I like the gun bluing better than the axle grease because it is less messy and easier to read. The Idea is to see how the two gears track heal and toe wise on the gear teeth faces. As you know, the shim packs on the top transmission cluster determine the tracking and the lash. Breeze through those two tests and you know that you have done every thing that you can for a good cost conscious job. Good luck.
Matt: I've been following the resto vid on the dozer . So far ,I have been very impressed with your tenacity and attention to detail. However ,with all due respects ,theres absolutey no way that 2nd gear should be left in there in its current condition. With that much damage its failure probability is extremely high and all your work will have to be repeated to gain access the shaft. . Since you were within a few bolts of having that lower shaft out , I myself would highly recommend you repair it properly . Having said that , the gear may be machined as an integral part of that complete lower shaft assembly and not individually replaceable. I'm sure that lower shaft assembly would be expensive ,but I would explore that avenue before I made the final decision to leave it in there. Best of luck in completing the resto and look forward to more videos..
Those gear teeth can be brazed up with a nickel/silver alloy. They will never wear again. We used to use a Welco product for gear teeth and build up of cams.
Seeing the clean metal after years of sitting, looking good as new inside the gear cases is so satisfying. It feels like turning trash into brand new money.
You have the right idea about painting... Quick cleaning and paint. If the paint fails, paint it again. Making gaskets like that is so old fashion, and you used way to much sealer. Total waste of time. Unless the gasket is required, for a precision fit, just use silicone seal, without a gasket. Most new vehicles are built like this today. Your going to save lots of time and money. All my restoration, and repairs, I have incorporated newer technology like this..... Its well worth it.
he was more worried about pinion spacing and worn gear depth alignment than leaking,,,new as you say is fine,,,but once worn there is a wear patern that you should maintain if at all possible,,,speed was not a concern here
@ Pacific Northwest Hillbilly You should replace the gear on the lower shaft, its worse than the other one you replaced and its likely first as its the smallest on the counter shaft and at the back where the least amount of deflection would be. You are that far, you may regret it later!
I feel as a Mechanic I have to warn you about that gear you didnt replace.....Gear teeth are a load bearing surface. They are beveled so that they engage and disengage smoothly without shock load. When one gear tooth gets damaged it transfers its torque load to the next tooth which now suffers shock load and starts to degrade that tooth suface! ( ever see a starter ring gear with missing teeth) filing them wont help! Ask me how I know! LOL! Great job so far! As REO Speedwagon says "Dont stop Believing"
Not replacing that busted gear in the transmission is a really tough choice that I hope you reconsider. I get that this is not a full restoration, but you are there now, and it is broken. Hope it doesn't come back to bite you later.
if that damaged gear later lets go,,,theres a good possiblility that it could throw teeth out and between your other gears all along the main shaft,,,that kind of load being powered by that engine could well split your whole case/frame assembly,,,,dont take chances,,,,ive had this happen on a JD two cylinder tractor. Broke a single tooth off and it got between two gears while under power and split the tractor. It happened at highway speed,,12 mph,,all at once, no warning,,,,,a big bang from down under my feet,,,,one bang,,,,and it was all over,,,,,,,
Did lots of painting at a construction company I worked at as a kid. Each spring I'll clean and paint heavy equipment until we could start work - frost out... I used an old steam cleaner to prep for painting. That old steamer would really remove old grease, scale, and flaking paint. I'm really enjoying the videos. I was a mechanic's 'helper in spring also. mostly lifting things the old guys wouldn't or couldn't. But I learned a lot and also learned to love mechanic work.
Nice work, please replace te broken gear to. Is not to much work now. When you have to do it later on it is a hell of a job. Like your project Greetings from Holland
I see your gloves splitting very often in the videos. This used to frustrate me as I wrench a lot myself. I recommend the 7 mil nitrile gloves. You wouldn't think it makes a difference but they're WAY tougher and a little better fitting(longer "sleeve" also). I actually can feel things better with them than the looser fitting 5 mil. I just buy the el cheapo harbor freight ones and they work great. When you end up needing a new box, I recommend giving a thicker mil glove a chance, you'll appreciate the better fit and tear resistance. Thanks again for your videos, it's nice to see a fellow PNW resident doing well.
I spray painted a Hyster forklift a few years back. It looked terrible as I did not sand all the old paint chips and scraps. Ain’t nobody got time for that. I brush painted it the following year and it was a much more hard-wearing finish. It is a piece of work equipment after all. New to the channel and loving it. Irish Pete.
A lot of the comments seem to be based on the appearance that painting will give the beast. I would have thought the most important reason for painting was to protect the metal. Once you get everything clean/degreased, I would have thought that, if you thin the paint, brush-painting it should be fine. As others have said, it's not a show-car, so brush-painting should be fine. One thing I've not seen mentioned is a clear-coat. It's extra work but it might be worth doing, just to protect the paint a bit.
Congratulations on your first mile stone with the transmission. You've said you don't care how it looks. Harbor freight sell cheap air spray guns. Thin the paint and spray it in bulk and fast. Even if you don't get the gun clean and it craps out, their so cheap you can get another one. Thats what i would do.
Hey Matt keep up the great work. Sorry you have to paint the thing, I did vote no as it will take away its aging and what it's been through. You will use second gear a lot too so good to hear you a replacing the gear. But remember its your baby, if you like it the way it is, do it your way, I bet most of us commenters have no idea.
Matt, while you concentrate on the engine and driveline, you should do a short side trip. Look at the bell cranks for the blade. See if there is a lot of play in the pivot. There will be. The bushings are probably shot and the shaft may have worn into the steel casting. Now would be the best time to disassemble things. You already mentioned the plate on the inside of the track frame. It looked like it may have been off previously. These have to be removed to get to the two bolts and plate retainer that holds the shaft in. There are four bolts that hold it to the frame. The bolts set in counterbores. On the couple of tractors where I had to deal with these, they were tack welded in. With the engine out, you can get to these bolts and cut any welds. The bushings are still available from Cat as are those pesky bolts. The bores can be easily welded up and cleaned up with a die grinder. I added grease zerts into the casting for better greasing.
throw a board across the case and sit on it - paint - put it all together then paint it - after you pressure wash it with good cleaner like TSP. The rope seal might be one of two things- Oakum - greased/waxed jute - or plain jute rope tightly wound and oiled. oakum was used to caulk cast iron sewer pipe before lead was poured in. also used for lots of sealing applications on steam engines and old equipment
Many years ago I had a next door neighbour, George Whelan, who repaired lawnmowers and resprayed them. He use to brush the parts he did not want painted with grease, then just spray everything. After the paint had dried, he would just wipe off the grease and the paint on top of it. This was a lot quicker than masking tape.
Cleaning things that are a bit grubby can be such a pain but cleaning stuff that's 2 inches thick in grime is 𝒔𝒐 𝒔𝒂𝒕𝒊𝒔𝒇𝒚𝒊𝒏𝒈, especially when you're getting down to good, virtually undamaged paint underneath.👍 That "venue" upstairs looks like a great place for 𝑠𝑜𝑚𝑒𝑡ℎ𝑖𝑛𝑔 Matt. We've got a few village halls around here which are about the same size and there have been some great dances held there over the years. Sometimes, smaller is better.😁 Really enjoying watching this process. I'm never likely to see the internal gubbins of a machine like this but it's still fun to watch.👍👌😁 Cheers for now, Dougie.
I’m a critical care nurse and I’d gladly trade my life saving skills for the ability to boldly go into the guts of this monster and restore life to it. Utterly fascinating!
Lack of maintenance killed this beast. Regular maintenance saves so much time and money. You can then get on with the work. I have seen both methods, fix it when it breaks and when I looked after a fleet scheduled maintenance. Scheduled maintenance properly done save a ton of money and the stuff carries on working!
Hi Matt, I am just watching your videos on this great piece of engineering. You are doing a fantastic job that you can look back on and say that you brought this back to life and you know every nut and bolt that holds this bulldozer together 👍👍👍
Dear Sir you are a model for the DIY population no rush no violence tool speaking (breaking stuff ) good clean up excellent video once finished you will have a blast with it
I am no expert by any stretch, but based on relative gear size, I believe the chipped lower gear is actually second gear. As near as I could tell the power comes into the transmission via the short upper shaft in front and there is a continuously engaged gear that transfers power to the lower shaft. So then based on gear position, power comes back to the full upper shaft and from there to the differential ring gear. In high gear, it appears that the gear you replaced can be low gear or high gear. In high gear, it engages the same gear that transfers power to the lower shaft and turns the upper shaft straight from the clutch shaft.
Once you have it all together and everything is working right, pressure wash it and then brush and roll what ever you can paint. Unreal, you put something back together. Well, it is a start. It is to bad that you had to take so much apart to get to that point. I am glad that you were able to dig out so much old junk out of the bottom. Now you know that it is clean. I sure hope that everything works out. I just hope that you can use it enough to get your money back. You are a brave man to take on such a big job by yourself. May the force be with you.
Great job Matt! Keep the faith. It will be worth it when you are putting your very own dozer to work. I would go back and replace that broken gear. Now is the time, it's right there. It sure would be a shame if you get the whole thing back together and it's an issue. Give it some thought. I'm loving your videos.
This is the only video series I look forward to each week, so thanks for putting in the extra time to documenting your project. This brings back memories of the pain and gratification with my 67 mustang teardown and rebuild. Cant wait for the engine rebuild and startup videos!
Hi. I live in Sweden. And has been following you since day one. And really like your project to renovate the D4. And it was the right decision to repaint it. Given all the work you put in! And your videos are one of the highlights of the week for me. Regarding the "gloves" you use on the cows 😉 You mean when the vet cleans the "pipe" before inseminating the cow 😁 such would be needed sometimes in this project😬😉 Considering the "shit" you dig out.
For painting the beast, I suggest going over it thoroughly with Citrus Strip and a hand scraper. Then put mineral spirits in a cheap garden sprayer and hose it down. Next, wipe it down with clean lint free rags, and then hose it with mineral spirits again and repeat with rags, finally drying it with an air nozzle. Prime it with Rustoleum self etching primer (use the paint can variety and a brush), then when the primer is cured, Use your finish color (again, can and brush, much cheaper then aerosol), giving it two or three coats. Since it is a work tractor and not a show piece, a few brush marks won't matter. You are after corrosion resistance. Great progress on the project!
I agree with this paint method. My dad painted a 1950 International TD6 this way, hand painted with a brush. Main function is to prevent rust. Keep costs low for paint.
I worked in UTB tractor factory in the gearbox department. My advice, is to replace gears as pair not just one. Don't replace just one because the old one doesn't have quite the same profile as the new one and it will make noise. You might not hear it, but when we produce the gears, we also test them in pairs for noise and vibrations. This can prevent premature wear in bearings and other components. The one with broken teeth might have fissure and in time can become a problem.
After painting heavy equipment for several years, probably the most useful information is to steam clean the equipment first. Just power washing gets the grease off but does nothing for the greasy grime that imbeds itself into the paint. This grime causes poor adhesion and requires almost twice the paint to cover the surfaces. We painted both after pressure washing and steam cleaning. The people providing the equipment cleaned it first for us, sort of. If we had time, it was worth steam cleaning it before painting. More paint is more time spent painting. Steam cleaning dries fast too. As far as equipment we used normal external mix guns. I used a Binks 63 and my buddy a Devilbiss 7. For had to reach places, just turn down the fan control on the gug and go carefully. For paint we used regular Dupont acrylic enamel and 8034S reducer.
When I paint equipment like this I spray it with a paint gun. I use a Sata nr 95 and for the hard to get places I set the spray pattern to what I call the hose mode. Its just the narrow small pattern that puts a concentrated pattern of paint into the hard to get areas. It uses up more paint but does a great job. A industrial type coating that uses is catalyst should work just fine...they cover well and are not to fussy if the area is not perfectly clean.
I have been doing transmissions for many years. The part at the bottom of the transmission is called the "countershaft cluster gear". The damaged gear teeth that you are looking at is for first gear. The other smaller gear on the cluster, is only for the idler gear used to power the reverse gear on the upper main shaft. I know that it's too late because you already put it back together, but the odds are cluster gear will likely fail because you now have full contact with the main shaft first gear and every time those chipped teeth come in contact you are distributing load to a much smaller surface area. In hindsight, I would have recommended you magnaflux the gear while you had it out to see if the remnants of those teeth were cracked. If they were cracked then it will only be a matter of time before they fail and you end up having to redo everything you've done so far just to replace the cluster that you had opportunity to replace now.
with regards to your finger nail, I had the same thing happen to a toe-nail. It got collided with and popped up. I bandaided it back in place. That didn't last long. But the new nail growing in replace it. I was afraid I was going to be toenail-less. But a month or so later my big toe had a nice big toe nail. Still have it. Natural replacement part. Good luck with fingernail and tractor.
Brake cleaner is basically dry cleaning solvent. It's designed to evaporate quickly. It works on stuff that is relatively easy to clean. To get the oily mess cleaned up, you need something like carb cleaner because it doesn't evaporate as quickly as brake cleaner. It also has a tendency to lift paint, so you want to be careful how long you let it sit.
Just a note, Matt. When I run into a sludge problem (or really any auto parts degrease) I use SuperClean industrial detergent (full strength). It really cuts some nasty stuff, is water soluble, and it won't harm (most) painted areas. Nice going on the D4! 👍
3M Roloc and air die grinder. The old Cat gaskets have asbestos in them , breathing protection. I have to actually chisel them off at times. Rustoleum Old Cat yellow, spray cans, works fine. wash down with gas, dry and paint. Don't worry about runs, they weren't at the factory!
If you abrade lead paint do it with a tool hooked into a vacuum with a HEPA filter to keep you and your family safe. Respirators are cheaper than lungs. And dispose of the waste in a safe manner.Study a primer on working with lead based paints. Stay well, we enjoy your content.
From a novice - my plan for painting would be what could be done within 8 to 12 hours. Previous comment from other was about spraying on the paint. Sounds practical. Would do a trial on least seen part of the D4 and gradually move up to the more visible part such as the cab and blade done last. Paint by hand probably would be twice as long to accomplish and subject to more error [opinion from novice].
these things didnt have cabs,,,,open air seat,,,,ive had 11 of them,,,,only one had a factory cat cab,,,,very rare to find and increases sale value by 10% if you can find one with original cat,,,
And please,that damaged gear. Enough teeth are out together. Either get it repaired with modern brazing materials then machined back,or replace it. You may say you don't think you will ever need that ,but I personally say,famous last words. Been there,done that. All it will take it is some heat treated broken chips circulating to make a real mess of your efforts,if it broke once it will break again.
Matt - Not only are you tackling some pretty heavy work solo, you are filming it too! I’ve done a fair share of wrenching but your ambition seems boundless. For paint I’d use a good brush, like a Wooster, or Purdy, thin the paint so it flows out nicely. Keep going, work safe!
Matt I worked for many years in commerial/industrial HVAC. When you open the doors upstairs you create a chimney effect. The hotter air up top is pulling the fumes from the cooler downtairs. Try putting a fan of any size in an opening downstairs to help create a negative air pressure when you close up for the night, pulling air to the outside. A fan upstairs pulling outside air indoors to create a positive air pressure, this fan needs to be much larger than the one downstairs. Hope this helps. As far as paint??.First thing, get the existing paint tested for lead. If you intend to remove the old paint especially. An inexpensive air operated paint sprayer is available through horrible freight. The other option is rattle can, be sure to ventilate, the fumes can cause, uhh, mem uhh memoree uhh loss and brayn daniage. Lol Love this series, the editing especially the verbal oops and moans lol Thanks
Unfortunately (being a barn and all), there is about an inch gap on the double doors up front. Those doors are 12 feet tall, so quite a bit of air can move through there. I'll give the fan a shot though.
Re paint :Clean it well with paint prep . And slap it on . Pop some good thinner in the paint to soften up the old coating .. not too much . Make sure its a low flash point so it evaporates quickly
Fantastic project keep up the great work. I love all the clean cavities and surfaces. So many people just don't care what it looks like if you can't see it. I've painted many a car and truck and many bathrooms too, I think it depends on the paint you use for the application. I would get a high solids content paint (for commercial use) from an automotive paint store and brush it on cast iron surfaces because they aren't smooth anyway, and spray things like the hood and other tin parts . You gotta win the Brass Balls Award for this project. Thanks
Des machines tellement bien faites, l'oeuvre de génies!!!.... l'embrayage!!!... une merveille, tellement facile à réparer après un temps immense de travail sans problèmes... etc...
I would suggest paint with roller and brush. In hardware stores they have those small rollers that do an excellent job on applying the paint. I really enjoy what your doing on this D4, excellent workmanship. I wish this were my project but I could never keep all those parts straight and get them back together right! I wouldn't do anything different than your doing Matt. PS I watched another CZcams channel that tried to do some clutch work with riveted linings. He ended up ordering the finished riveted parts, couldn't get a good job by hand!
I would suggest you take the time to checkout your front spring and perhaps just replace the bottom one or two leafs. It is a lot easier to get to now and as you have learned it takes a huge load
Don’t paint it.........that’s the easiest! I love the patina , I would just give it a clear coat to keep the rust at bay. Also, I would love to see you change the gear that was damaged if available and because your already in there! On a positive note, I eagerly await these videos I wish I had a project and a great place to do it !
The best degreaser is Greased Lightning. Restaurants use it to clean built up grease around the areas around deep fryers. I use it to clean the outsides of pool tables in bars when I recover them and boy can they get nasty. Especially bars that specializes in deep fried chicken wings. I've also used it on cars and trucks.
The diesel fumes in the venue area, one boil a whole gallon of vinegar in the building and while it is slow boiling get a 5 pound bag of baking soda and spread it on the venue floor, leave the baking soda sit for an hour or so. If you have access to fresh sawdust spread it on the floor and leave some on the floor so when they come to look at the venue it smells like wood not diesel fuel. Cooking orders are taken away with vinegar and baking soda removes odors from carpet, ask your wife she knows. I know it works.
I scrap gunk with a putty knife easy to scoop and reach tough spots. Then a little gasoline cuts the remaining well..for final wipe out. Also pb blaster is solvent more than oil an doesn’t hang on for rust protect too well..sea foam may be a bit better. I’m rebuilding a detroit diesel at the gulf coast marina so rust is constant. Great job..Great inspiration..
I feel your pain. I accidentally fed 1/4” of my right thumb to a large belt sander last year. Lost the nail as well. Super tender skin under there. Keep up the good fight. Love watching you save this old girl.
Just a suggestion. I like to use Permatex High Tack on paper gaskets. You can get it as a brush on or spray. It is sticky, but won't squeeze out. It also will not harden. Easier than the from a gasket.
You should buy a Cricut cutter machine. They quickly cut gaskets out of gasket material. I bought a machine and use it to make gaskets for my VW projects. They do a great job. Keep up the excellent work on this project. You're doing a great job filming and videoing the process!
@@thomream1888 Cricut comes with software you download. You basically take a picture of the gasket. Then use a free software to remove the background. Then upload it onto Cricut's software. Then, size it on Cricuts software and cut. There is a learning a curve but it's easy. Saves me hundreds/thousands of dollars making them myself. I buy gasket material of different thickness from Summit Racing.
@@warbirdwf Man, I sure appreciate you takin' the time to explain all that. I know there's more to it, but you give me the confidence that I might be able to use that machine without killing the electric grid for North America. Are you having as much fun watching Matt wrenching on this ol' beast as I am? Judging by your name I'd bet you have a little grease under your fingernails too! I'm glad he's got the financial resources to take on a project like this, and he MUST have a very understanding wife! OK, back to (cough, cough) work... yeah, work. I sure do like my remote!!!! :)
This is a great series, thanks for your efforts. I would have replaced that damaged gear, as you never know what the future holds, it seems silly not to. Regards paint, get the flaking stuff off with a wire brush, wash and then use some scotch pads to key what's there, then final wipe down with solvent. I'd go and buy a cheap spray gun and suitable solvent to thin the paint and spray everything. It's much quicker doing it that way, it gets to the hard to reach places and looks better.
if you replace all the seals . Use lacquer thinner , that sludge will jump out. it cleans oil passages . in the crank and block . do it out side . I watched your last vid ,first . I am binge watching from the first and am up to this one . I think you scored , almost for nothen. I am 72 . Be careful a short cut might be hard to get to .... The glass pack on the exhaust is the nicest sounding ever. Enjoying watching .
If you smash your finger, immediately keep your hand above your head to keep the blood pressure down. This prevents the blood from pooling under the nail. It's a bit of a nuisance because it needs to be kept up for 15 to 20 minutes, but it's better than losing the nail.
I do enjoy watching your video series on this project. However, I would absolutely replace the small broken tooth gear. Why you ask? Because I am positive you will never ever be inside this monster ever again. And regardless the cost, I would change that gear just to know that nothing was over looked or forgotten. JMHO!
My vote is for spraying vs. rolling, will look 100% better. If you need a cheap spray gun that works well, take a look at a H.F. one. They have great reviews out of the box and work even better with a few easy mods, not that you'll need them for this project, but is an option. I think you'll be much more satisfied with a sprayed finish. PS. Glad your finger is feeling better.
I've found pouring super clean fluid to soak a transmission front pan cover pan, that old road grime softens making is way easier to clean up. It loves oily grease grim. I just poured into a pan and let it soak
You can fill those pits with devcon or steel stick (JB Weld) and lightly sand it with some 800 grit. That will give you a better surface for the RTV on those covers.
For painting it I would if it where mine..Roll it out..Wash it. (power wash, hand scrub, Hand brush ) till your absolutely sick of it. I also use blow guns alot when working on equipment to get the grim out of tight spots and clean and dry parts. Then spray paint it with one of those cheap TSC or harbor freight sprayers that works off an air compressor. Will need a few basics beyond the sprayer of your choice. Like a pressure regulator (the closer to the gun you can locate that the better), line dryer or line filter. Use a hardener in the paint. Mix a pint or quart at a time depending on your sprayer setup.
Its a year after but to avoid backpain, spread your legs so your hips are lower. Have hip flexibility to turn your hip instead of bending your back and if your lucky rest your belly on the edge your leaning over or lean on 1 elbow to rest your back. Works also great when you have to do dishes in a kitchen with a low counter.
Matt, I'm new to your channel, but have enjoyed all the videos in this series so far. I haven't read all the comments, so I don't know if anyone else has mentioned it, but before you use LocTite, you should degrease both the fastener and the hole otherwise it won't do its job properly. Keep up the great work.
Put the machine back together then degrease and pressure wash. When dry, start underneath and work your way up. I use a Wagoner airless sprayer. Use genuine Caterpillar paint. It sprays and covers much better than the off brand stuff. You won't regret it.
Cat had a stand with a riveter that made working the steering clutch brake bands eazy, with foot pedal controls for the riveting process. line it up. insert rivet, press pedal, move to the next hole. You on the other hand, will wrap the band around your legs while in a sitting position, then hand rivet forever against a vice between your legs. . Mind you I've only seen it done, not did it. I'm a parts-man.
How about doing some type of wet sanding with soapy water and sandpaper. That way there's no dust. And I think there are small paint guns to paint tight places.
Let me know your suggestions on the best/easiest way to paint this beast!
Best is a very different thing from easiest. :-D
Look at the videos by Diesel Creek. He does non-restoration paint on his equipment. Not sure how they hold up, but they definitely look a improved :)
Wire brush to get rid of most of the loose scale, tgen brush or roller depending on how much surface you need to cover. It is a farm tractor and not a show car
steel brush it and paint with brushes and invite friends to beer and brush party
Well most tractors had their frames and running gear painted in one go, id say manually wire brush the thing, before reassembly, re fit everything that isn’t tinwork and go to town with a sprayer. Works for me although I do chemically strip the old paint first.
You add something to the CZcams world that is quite rare: You are completely articulate when describing your work. In addition to that is your dry sense of humor. I enjoy sarcasm-when not directed at someone else to their detriment. Self-deprecating humor is a fine art, No?
I agree! Hell, I can't even spell articulate.
I enjoy sarcasm when it's ripping a man a new asshole.
I would defo replace that gear, now you have had it in parts the next time you strip it down it will take no time. You will regret not replacing the gear in time to come.
My thoughts exactly !
Gear if full of minute fractures and will fail and spread metal through the gearbox . Your not saving time or money. Do it right the first time is cheaper
I am really enjoying your D4 rebuild video. It seems a pity not to change that one damaged gear after you have gone so far and it is easy to get at.
Thanks for sharing your journey.
I'm just realizing now I cut out a bunch of footage about that gear... there is only like a 3 second clip of me smoothing it, lol. It's 2nd gear, and I I figured out that you can change it without removing the top shaft (I think). I'm still trying to source it, but in the mean time I need the top shaft in to fix some other stuff.
@@PacificNorthwestHillbilly You'll make many of us very happy to see that gear changed 😊. Great video series.
I agree. Change that bad boy now! Perhaps saving yourself the heartache of having to tear it all apart again a year from now because it failed.
@@PacificNorthwestHillbilly Yes agree with other commenters change the broken gear ... Anything worth doing . Is worth doing right
"We're painting the bathroom that's in the Arby's three blocks down the road from the Sistine Chapel" - comedy gold right there
Here are a couple of suggestions that will ease your mind on the gearing. First, I have filed and stoned chipped transmission gears many times and have had no problems, but there is a trick. As you know, the trick is to do it so that the gears are not cutting into one another and this is how you check for gear contact.
Step 1. Do get the gear cluster in the transmission back in place and torqued in but do not go much further.
Step 2. Reinstall the ring gear, clutches, and clutch brakes after you rebuild them, but don't bolt the clutches up solid to the finals just yet.
Step 3 Use the clutch brakes to put a light load on the transmission and use something to turn the transmission at a slow speed using the chipped gear in question. While turning the transmission under load, listen for a thunking or popping sound from the chipped gear. If there is no sound, you are good and the gears won't cut each other. If there is a pounding or thunking sound, well... it is up to you, It deepens on how much you intend to use the machine versus the knowledge of what it takes to get back into the transmission and replace both gear clusters after they destroy each other.
Step 4. Take the time to check the pinion and ring gear lash if you have a dial mic. Also, in a quick way of checking gear tracking, you can use either gun bluing or axle grease to check the heal and toe contact between the gear teeth. There should be pictures in your manual and steps on how to proceed. Personally, I like the gun bluing better than the axle grease because it is less messy and easier to read. The Idea is to see how the two gears track heal and toe wise on the gear teeth faces. As you know, the shim packs on the top transmission cluster determine the tracking and the lash.
Breeze through those two tests and you know that you have done every thing that you can for a good cost conscious job.
Good luck.
Matt: I've been following the resto vid on the dozer . So far ,I have been very impressed with your tenacity and attention to detail. However ,with all due respects ,theres absolutey no way that 2nd gear should be left in there in its current condition. With that much damage its failure probability is extremely high and all your work will have to be repeated to gain access the shaft. . Since you were within a few bolts of having that lower shaft out , I myself would highly recommend you repair it properly . Having said that , the gear may be machined as an integral part of that complete lower shaft assembly and not individually replaceable. I'm sure that lower shaft assembly would be expensive ,but I would explore that avenue before I made the final decision to leave it in there.
Best of luck in completing the resto and look forward to more videos..
Those gear teeth can be brazed up with a nickel/silver alloy. They will never wear again. We used to use a Welco product for gear teeth and build up of cams.
Seeing the clean metal after years of sitting, looking good as new inside the gear cases is so satisfying. It feels like turning trash into brand new money.
You have the right idea about painting... Quick cleaning and paint. If the paint fails, paint it again.
Making gaskets like that is so old fashion, and you used way to much sealer. Total waste of time. Unless the gasket is required, for a precision fit, just use silicone seal, without a gasket. Most new vehicles are built like this today. Your going to save lots of time and money.
All my restoration, and repairs, I have incorporated newer technology like this..... Its well worth it.
he was more worried about pinion spacing and worn gear depth alignment than leaking,,,new as you say is fine,,,but once worn there is a wear patern that you should maintain if at all possible,,,speed was not a concern here
@ Pacific Northwest Hillbilly You should replace the gear on the lower shaft, its worse than the other one you replaced and its likely first as its the smallest on the counter shaft and at the back where the least amount of deflection would be. You are that far, you may regret it later!
I feel as a Mechanic I have to warn you about that gear you didnt replace.....Gear teeth are a load bearing surface. They are beveled so that they engage and disengage smoothly without shock load. When one gear tooth gets damaged it transfers its torque load to the next tooth which now suffers shock load and starts to degrade that tooth suface! ( ever see a starter ring gear with missing teeth) filing them wont help! Ask me how I know! LOL! Great job so far! As REO Speedwagon says "Dont stop Believing"
Not replacing that busted gear in the transmission is a really tough choice that I hope you reconsider. I get that this is not a full restoration, but you are there now, and it is broken. Hope it doesn't come back to bite you later.
THIS
if that damaged gear later lets go,,,theres a good possiblility that it could throw teeth out and between your other gears all along the main shaft,,,that kind of load being powered by that engine could well split your whole case/frame assembly,,,,dont take chances,,,,ive had this happen on a JD two cylinder tractor. Broke a single tooth off and it got between two gears while under power and split the tractor. It happened at highway speed,,12 mph,,all at once, no warning,,,,,a big bang from down under my feet,,,,one bang,,,,and it was all over,,,,,,,
Did lots of painting at a construction company I worked at as a kid. Each spring I'll clean and paint heavy equipment until we could start work - frost out... I used an old steam cleaner to prep for painting. That old steamer would really remove old grease, scale, and flaking paint.
I'm really enjoying the videos. I was a mechanic's 'helper in spring also. mostly lifting things the old guys wouldn't or couldn't. But I learned a lot and also learned to love mechanic work.
Nice work, please replace te broken gear to. Is not to much work now. When you have to do it later on it is a hell of a job.
Like your project
Greetings from Holland
I see your gloves splitting very often in the videos. This used to frustrate me as I wrench a lot myself. I recommend the 7 mil nitrile gloves. You wouldn't think it makes a difference but they're WAY tougher and a little better fitting(longer "sleeve" also). I actually can feel things better with them than the looser fitting 5 mil. I just buy the el cheapo harbor freight ones and they work great. When you end up needing a new box, I recommend giving a thicker mil glove a chance, you'll appreciate the better fit and tear resistance. Thanks again for your videos, it's nice to see a fellow PNW resident doing well.
I spray painted a Hyster forklift a few years back. It looked terrible as I did not sand all the old paint chips and scraps. Ain’t nobody got time for that. I brush painted it the following year and it was a much more hard-wearing finish. It is a piece of work equipment after all. New to the channel and loving it. Irish Pete.
A lot of the comments seem to be based on the appearance that painting will give the beast. I would have thought the most important reason for painting was to protect the metal.
Once you get everything clean/degreased, I would have thought that, if you thin the paint, brush-painting it should be fine. As others have said, it's not a show-car, so brush-painting should be fine.
One thing I've not seen mentioned is a clear-coat. It's extra work but it might be worth doing, just to protect the paint a bit.
i would replace that gear thats still bad since your that far into it. better now than later. since everything else is good
Exactly!
Congratulations on your first mile stone with the transmission. You've said you don't care how it looks. Harbor freight sell cheap air spray guns. Thin the paint and spray it in bulk and fast. Even if you don't get the gun clean and it craps out, their so cheap you can get another one. Thats what i would do.
Matt's not going to be able to sleep with that broken gear in there..
Yea, I feel like he is opening more cans of worms than worth it.
Hey Matt keep up the great work. Sorry you have to paint the thing, I did vote no as it will take away its aging and what it's been through. You will use second gear a lot too so good to hear you a replacing the gear. But remember its your baby, if you like it the way it is, do it your way, I bet most of us commenters have no idea.
Matt, while you concentrate on the engine and driveline, you should do a short side trip. Look at the bell cranks for the blade. See if there is a lot of play in the pivot. There will be. The bushings are probably shot and the shaft may have worn into the steel casting. Now would be the best time to disassemble things. You already mentioned the plate on the inside of the track frame. It looked like it may have been off previously. These have to be removed to get to the two bolts and plate retainer that holds the shaft in. There are four bolts that hold it to the frame. The bolts set in counterbores. On the couple of tractors where I had to deal with these, they were tack welded in. With the engine out, you can get to these bolts and cut any welds. The bushings are still available from Cat as are those pesky bolts. The bores can be easily welded up and cleaned up with a die grinder. I added grease zerts into the casting for better greasing.
throw a board across the case and sit on it - paint - put it all together then paint it - after you pressure wash it with good cleaner like TSP. The rope seal might be one of two things- Oakum - greased/waxed jute - or plain jute rope tightly wound and oiled. oakum was used to caulk cast iron sewer pipe before lead was poured in. also used for lots of sealing applications on steam engines and old equipment
Many years ago I had a next door neighbour, George Whelan, who repaired lawnmowers and resprayed them. He use to brush the parts he did not want painted with grease, then just spray everything. After the paint had dried, he would just wipe off the grease and the paint on top of it. This was a lot quicker than masking tape.
Cleaning things that are a bit grubby can be such a pain but cleaning stuff that's 2 inches thick in grime is 𝒔𝒐 𝒔𝒂𝒕𝒊𝒔𝒇𝒚𝒊𝒏𝒈, especially when you're getting down to good, virtually undamaged paint underneath.👍
That "venue" upstairs looks like a great place for 𝑠𝑜𝑚𝑒𝑡ℎ𝑖𝑛𝑔 Matt. We've got a few village halls around here which are about the same size and there have been some great dances held there over the years. Sometimes, smaller is better.😁
Really enjoying watching this process. I'm never likely to see the internal gubbins of a machine like this but it's still fun to watch.👍👌😁
Cheers for now,
Dougie.
I’m a critical care nurse and I’d gladly trade my life saving skills for the ability to boldly go into the guts of this monster and restore life to it. Utterly fascinating!
Lack of maintenance killed this beast. Regular maintenance saves so much time and money. You can then get on with the work. I have seen both methods, fix it when it breaks and when I looked after a fleet scheduled maintenance. Scheduled maintenance properly done save a ton of money and the stuff carries on working!
Hi Matt, I am just watching your videos on this great piece of engineering. You are doing a fantastic job that you can look back on and say that you brought this back to life and you know every nut and bolt that holds this bulldozer together 👍👍👍
Dear Sir you are a model for the DIY population no rush no violence tool speaking (breaking stuff )
good clean up excellent video once finished you will have a blast with it
The craftsmanship that went into your barn is amazing. Loving your videos.
I am no expert by any stretch, but based on relative gear size, I believe the chipped lower gear is actually second gear. As near as I could tell the power comes into the transmission via the short upper shaft in front and there is a continuously engaged gear that transfers power to the lower shaft. So then based on gear position, power comes back to the full upper shaft and from there to the differential ring gear. In high gear, it appears that the gear you replaced can be low gear or high gear. In high gear, it engages the same gear that transfers power to the lower shaft and turns the upper shaft straight from the clutch shaft.
Once you have it all together and everything is working right, pressure wash it and then brush and roll what ever you can paint. Unreal, you put something back together. Well, it is a start. It is to bad that you had to take so much apart to get to that point. I am glad that you were able to dig out so much old junk out of the bottom. Now you know that it is clean. I sure hope that everything works out. I just hope that you can use it enough to get your money back. You are a brave man to take on such a big job by yourself. May the force be with you.
You and your wife are Warriors. Thanks.
Great job Matt! Keep the faith. It will be worth it when you are putting your very own dozer to work. I would go back and replace that broken gear. Now is the time, it's right there. It sure would be a shame if you get the whole thing back together and it's an issue. Give it some thought. I'm loving your videos.
This is the only video series I look forward to each week, so thanks for putting in the extra time to documenting your project. This brings back memories of the pain and gratification with my 67 mustang teardown and rebuild. Cant wait for the engine rebuild and startup videos!
Hi. I live in Sweden. And has been following you since day one. And really like your project to renovate the D4. And it was the right decision to repaint it. Given all the work you put in! And your videos are one of the highlights of the week for me. Regarding the "gloves" you use on the cows 😉 You mean when the vet cleans the "pipe" before inseminating the cow 😁 such would be needed sometimes in this project😬😉 Considering the "shit" you dig out.
For painting the beast, I suggest going over it thoroughly with Citrus Strip and a hand scraper. Then put mineral spirits in a cheap garden sprayer and hose it down. Next, wipe it down with clean lint free rags, and then hose it with mineral spirits again and repeat with rags, finally drying it with an air nozzle. Prime it with Rustoleum self etching primer (use the paint can variety and a brush), then when the primer is cured, Use your finish color (again, can and brush, much cheaper then aerosol), giving it two or three coats. Since it is a work tractor and not a show piece, a few brush marks won't matter. You are after corrosion resistance. Great progress on the project!
I agree with this paint method. My dad painted a 1950 International TD6 this way, hand painted with a brush. Main function is to prevent rust. Keep costs low for paint.
We light matches when we make it stinky !! LOL. I am truly amazed how much original paint is left in both apartments you’ve cleaned so far.
I worked in UTB tractor factory in the gearbox department. My advice, is to replace gears as pair not just one. Don't replace just one because the old one doesn't have quite the same profile as the new one and it will make noise. You might not hear it, but when we produce the gears, we also test them in pairs for noise and vibrations. This can prevent premature wear in bearings and other components. The one with broken teeth might have fissure and in time can become a problem.
After painting heavy equipment for several years, probably the most useful information is to steam clean the equipment first. Just power washing gets the grease off but does nothing for the greasy grime that imbeds itself into the paint. This grime causes poor adhesion and requires almost twice the paint to cover the surfaces. We painted both after pressure washing and steam cleaning. The people providing the equipment cleaned it first for us, sort of. If we had time, it was worth steam cleaning it before painting. More paint is more time spent painting. Steam cleaning dries fast too.
As far as equipment we used normal external mix guns. I used a Binks 63 and my buddy a Devilbiss 7. For had to reach places, just turn down the fan control on the gug and go carefully.
For paint we used regular Dupont acrylic enamel and 8034S reducer.
When I paint equipment like this I spray it with a paint gun. I use a Sata nr 95 and for the hard to get places I set the spray pattern to what I call the hose mode. Its just the narrow small pattern that puts a concentrated pattern of paint into the hard to get areas. It uses up more paint but does a great job. A industrial type coating that uses is catalyst should work just fine...they cover well and are not to fussy if the area is not perfectly clean.
If you are tearing it all down, why would you not replace the one damaged gear?
Exactly!
That gear is on the cluster and may not be able to replace just that gear he might have to replace the whole cluster
I have been doing transmissions for many years. The part at the bottom of the transmission is called the "countershaft cluster gear". The damaged gear teeth that you are looking at is for first gear. The other smaller gear on the cluster, is only for the idler gear used to power the reverse gear on the upper main shaft. I know that it's too late because you already put it back together, but the odds are cluster gear will likely fail because you now have full contact with the main shaft first gear and every time those chipped teeth come in contact you are distributing load to a much smaller surface area. In hindsight, I would have recommended you magnaflux the gear while you had it out to see if the remnants of those teeth were cracked. If they were cracked then it will only be a matter of time before they fail and you end up having to redo everything you've done so far just to replace the cluster that you had opportunity to replace now.
Use Prepsol before you paint and I think you can also mix it into your paint. Fleet painting equipment use it all the time.
Nice to see the Cat going back together after bring pulled apart.
with regards to your finger nail, I had the same thing happen to a toe-nail. It got collided with and popped up. I bandaided it back in place. That didn't last long. But the new nail growing in replace it. I was afraid I was going to be toenail-less. But a month or so later my big toe had a nice big toe nail. Still have it. Natural replacement part. Good luck with fingernail and tractor.
For painting use Lacquer thinner to clean it and then you can either spray it on with a spray gun or brush it on either way
I think you're gonna regret not taggin & baggin all the bolts.
Brake cleaner is basically dry cleaning solvent. It's designed to evaporate quickly. It works on stuff that is relatively easy to clean. To get the oily mess cleaned up, you need something like carb cleaner because it doesn't evaporate as quickly as brake cleaner. It also has a tendency to lift paint, so you want to be careful how long you let it sit.
Thank you notifications, for letting me know when to take a lunch break! Lol
Good stuff Matt!! Keep on, keepin' on!!
Just a note, Matt. When I run into a sludge problem (or really any auto parts degrease) I use SuperClean industrial detergent (full strength). It really cuts some nasty stuff, is water soluble, and it won't harm (most) painted areas. Nice going on the D4! 👍
3M Roloc and air die grinder. The old Cat gaskets have asbestos in them , breathing protection. I have to actually chisel them off at times. Rustoleum Old Cat yellow, spray cans, works fine. wash down with gas, dry and paint. Don't worry about runs, they weren't at the factory!
If you abrade lead paint do it with a tool hooked into a vacuum with a HEPA filter to keep you and your family safe. Respirators are cheaper than lungs. And dispose of the waste in a safe manner.Study a primer on working with lead based paints. Stay well, we enjoy your content.
I have had really good luck with dollar store oven cleaner on the heavy goo.
From a novice - my plan for painting would be what could be done within 8 to 12 hours. Previous comment from other was about spraying on the paint. Sounds practical. Would do a trial on least seen part of the D4 and gradually move up to the more visible part such as the cab and blade done last.
Paint by hand probably would be twice as long to accomplish and subject to more error [opinion from novice].
these things didnt have cabs,,,,open air seat,,,,ive had 11 of them,,,,only one had a factory cat cab,,,,very rare to find and increases sale value by 10% if you can find one with original cat,,,
And please,that damaged gear. Enough teeth are out together. Either get it repaired with modern brazing materials then machined back,or replace it. You may say you don't think you will ever need that ,but I personally say,famous last words. Been there,done that. All it will take it is some heat treated broken chips circulating to make a real mess of your efforts,if it broke once it will break again.
You are like the Columbo of mechanics - seemingly naïve on the surface, but excellent at what you do - a consummate technician.
pretty sure that's the nicest thing anyone has said about me 😂
Matt - Not only are you tackling some pretty heavy work solo, you are filming it too! I’ve done a fair share of wrenching but your ambition seems boundless. For paint I’d use a good brush, like a Wooster, or Purdy, thin the paint so it flows out nicely. Keep going, work safe!
Thank you for taking us on this overhaul journey with you.
Matt I worked for many years in commerial/industrial HVAC. When you open the doors upstairs you create a chimney effect. The hotter air up top is pulling the fumes from the cooler downtairs. Try putting a fan of any size in an opening downstairs to help create a negative air pressure when you close up for the night, pulling air to the outside. A fan upstairs pulling outside air indoors to create a positive air pressure, this fan needs to be much larger than the one downstairs. Hope this helps.
As far as paint??.First thing, get the existing paint tested for lead. If you intend to remove the old paint especially.
An inexpensive air operated paint sprayer is available through horrible freight. The other option is rattle can, be sure to ventilate, the fumes can cause, uhh, mem uhh memoree uhh loss and brayn daniage. Lol
Love this series, the editing especially the verbal oops and moans lol
Thanks
Unfortunately (being a barn and all), there is about an inch gap on the double doors up front. Those doors are 12 feet tall, so quite a bit of air can move through there. I'll give the fan a shot though.
Re paint :Clean it well with paint prep . And slap it on . Pop some good thinner in the paint to soften up the old coating .. not too much . Make sure its a low flash point so it evaporates quickly
Bar and chain oil everywhere ,then wipe with rags were you need to touch ,looks nice until it gets dust but that another layer of protection
Fantastic project keep up the great work. I love all the clean cavities and surfaces. So many people just don't care what it looks like if you can't see it. I've painted many a car and truck and many bathrooms too, I think it depends on the paint you use for the application. I would get a high solids content paint (for commercial use) from an automotive paint store and brush it on cast iron surfaces because they aren't smooth anyway, and spray things like the hood and other tin parts . You gotta win the Brass Balls Award for this project. Thanks
Diesel Creek is painting an old Cat road grader yellow. Not a restore, gonna use it on the farm. Great job!
It’s a Galion not a Cat
@@garretr4488 You are correct!
I use the green scrub pads with the purple degreaser to prep for paint on equipment.
Des machines tellement bien faites, l'oeuvre de génies!!!.... l'embrayage!!!... une merveille, tellement facile à réparer après un temps immense de travail sans problèmes... etc...
I would suggest paint with roller and brush. In hardware stores they have those small rollers that do an excellent job on applying the paint. I really enjoy what your doing on this D4, excellent workmanship. I wish this were my project but I could never keep all those parts straight and get them back together right! I wouldn't do anything different than your doing Matt. PS I watched another CZcams channel that tried to do some clutch work with riveted linings. He ended up ordering the finished riveted parts, couldn't get a good job by hand!
I would suggest you take the time to checkout your front spring and perhaps just replace the bottom one or two leafs. It is a lot easier to get to now and as you have learned it takes a huge load
Great job. The reason we want you to paint it is simply so it lasts another 70 years. You are putting in too much work not to protect it.
Don’t paint it.........that’s the easiest! I love the patina , I would just give it a clear coat to keep the rust at bay. Also, I would love to see you change the gear that was damaged if available and because your already in there! On a positive note, I eagerly await these videos I wish I had a project and a great place to do it !
The best degreaser is Greased Lightning.
Restaurants use it to clean built up grease around the areas around deep fryers.
I use it to clean the outsides of pool tables in bars when I recover them and boy can they get nasty.
Especially bars that specializes in deep fried chicken wings.
I've also used it on cars and trucks.
The diesel fumes in the venue area, one boil a whole gallon of vinegar in the building and while it is slow boiling get a 5 pound bag of baking soda and spread it on the venue floor, leave the baking soda sit for an hour or so. If you have access to fresh sawdust spread it on the floor and leave some on the floor so when they come to look at the venue it smells like wood not diesel fuel.
Cooking orders are taken away with vinegar and baking soda removes odors from carpet, ask your wife she knows. I know it works.
I scrap gunk with a putty knife easy to scoop and reach tough spots. Then a little gasoline cuts the remaining well..for final wipe out. Also pb blaster is solvent more than oil an doesn’t hang on for rust protect too well..sea foam may be a bit better. I’m rebuilding a detroit diesel at the gulf coast marina so rust is constant. Great job..Great inspiration..
I feel your pain. I accidentally fed 1/4” of my right thumb to a large belt sander last year. Lost the nail as well. Super tender skin under there. Keep up the good fight. Love watching you save this old girl.
Just a suggestion. I like to use Permatex High Tack on paper gaskets. You can get it as a brush on or spray. It is sticky, but won't squeeze out. It also will not harden. Easier than the from a gasket.
I am giving my support because I really want to see this thing work again
Having that one gear messed up would kill me I would of had to change it. Best to change it now just in case you never know.
Automatic thumbs up for that Nail Halftime report. lmao
LOL, somehow I doubt there is an Arby's 3 blocks away from the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City, but that was a funny reference.
You should buy a Cricut cutter machine. They quickly cut gaskets out of gasket material. I bought a machine and use it to make gaskets for my VW projects. They do a great job.
Keep up the excellent work on this project. You're doing a great job filming and videoing the process!
That's a GREAT idea! Can you find patterns or do you just make your own? What software do you use? Thanks.
@@thomream1888 Cricut comes with software you download. You basically take a picture of the gasket. Then use a free software to remove the background. Then upload it onto Cricut's software. Then, size it on Cricuts software and cut. There is a learning a curve but it's easy. Saves me hundreds/thousands of dollars making them myself. I buy gasket material of different thickness from Summit Racing.
@@warbirdwf Man, I sure appreciate you takin' the time to explain all that. I know there's more to it, but you give me the confidence that I might be able to use that machine without killing the electric grid for North America.
Are you having as much fun watching Matt wrenching on this ol' beast as I am? Judging by your name I'd bet you have a little grease under your fingernails too! I'm glad he's got the financial resources to take on a project like this, and he MUST have a very understanding wife!
OK, back to (cough, cough) work... yeah, work. I sure do like my remote!!!! :)
This is a great series, thanks for your efforts. I would have replaced that damaged gear, as you never know what the future holds, it seems silly not to.
Regards paint, get the flaking stuff off with a wire brush, wash and then use some scotch pads to key what's there, then final wipe down with solvent. I'd go and buy a cheap spray gun and suitable solvent to thin the paint and spray everything. It's much quicker doing it that way, it gets to the hard to reach places and looks better.
if you replace all the seals .
Use lacquer thinner , that sludge will jump out. it cleans oil passages . in the crank and block . do it out side .
I watched your last vid ,first . I am binge watching from the first and am up to this one .
I think you scored , almost for nothen. I am 72 .
Be careful a short cut might be hard to get to ....
The glass pack on the exhaust is the nicest sounding ever.
Enjoying watching .
If you smash your finger, immediately keep your hand above your head to keep the blood pressure down. This prevents the blood from pooling under the nail. It's a bit of a nuisance because it needs to be kept up for 15 to 20 minutes, but it's better than losing the nail.
They make smal paint pads that have handles. They cover very well and easy to use. Looking forward for your first start up.
Rule of thumb - New Cam New Lifters/Tappets. Never mix new and old parts on the cam shaft, they are worn in together and don't like mismatch.
I do enjoy watching your video series on this project. However, I would absolutely replace the small broken tooth gear. Why you ask? Because I am positive you will never ever be inside this monster ever again. And regardless the cost, I would change that gear just to know that nothing was over looked or forgotten. JMHO!
My vote is for spraying vs. rolling, will look 100% better. If you need a cheap spray gun that works well, take a look at a H.F. one. They have great reviews out of the box and work even better with a few easy mods, not that you'll need them for this project, but is an option. I think you'll be much more satisfied with a sprayed finish. PS. Glad your finger is feeling better.
I've found pouring super clean fluid to soak a transmission front pan cover pan, that old road grime softens making is way easier to clean up. It loves oily grease grim. I just poured into a pan and let it soak
You can fill those pits with devcon or steel stick (JB Weld) and lightly sand it with some 800 grit. That will give you a better surface for the RTV on those covers.
The biggest task in mechanics is cleaning. The best tool to have is a covered smooth concrete floor.
For painting it I would if it where mine..Roll it out..Wash it. (power wash, hand scrub, Hand brush ) till your absolutely sick of it. I also use blow guns alot when working on equipment to get the grim out of tight spots and clean and dry parts. Then spray paint it with one of those cheap TSC or harbor freight sprayers that works off an air compressor. Will need a few basics beyond the sprayer of your choice. Like a pressure regulator (the closer to the gun you can locate that the better), line dryer or line filter. Use a hardener in the paint. Mix a pint or quart at a time depending on your sprayer setup.
Its a year after but to avoid backpain, spread your legs so your hips are lower.
Have hip flexibility to turn your hip instead of bending your back and if your lucky rest your belly on the edge your leaning over or lean on 1 elbow to rest your back.
Works also great when you have to do dishes in a kitchen with a low counter.
Matt, I'm new to your channel, but have enjoyed all the videos in this series so far. I haven't read all the comments, so I don't know if anyone else has mentioned it, but before you use LocTite, you should degrease both the fastener and the hole otherwise it won't do its job properly. Keep up the great work.
the clean areas are like a piece of art .... a pity they then have to be covered over--- beauty
Put the machine back together then degrease and pressure wash. When dry, start underneath and work your way up. I use a Wagoner airless sprayer. Use genuine Caterpillar paint. It sprays and covers much better than the off brand stuff. You won't regret it.
I’be been watching Squatch to get my fix waiting for your next video to drop. Those guys are insane. You are much more style!
Cat had a stand with a riveter that made working the steering clutch brake bands eazy, with foot pedal controls for the riveting process. line it up. insert rivet, press pedal, move to the next hole. You on the other hand, will wrap the band around your legs while in a sitting position, then hand rivet forever against a vice between your legs. . Mind you I've only seen it done, not did it. I'm a parts-man.
How about doing some type of wet sanding with soapy water and sandpaper. That way there's no dust. And I think there are small paint guns to paint tight places.
YOUR DOING A GREAT JOB...CAN'T WAIT FOR NEXT EPISODE...PAINT THE ENGINE SO YOU CAN DETECT LEAKS...
Really wish you had done something with that damadged gear while you had the top shaft out Matt the broken teeth could easily be built up and machined