Magnetic Bases for 3D Printed Dungeon Tiles
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Here's a video on how I replaced the stock clip bases of Dragonlock dungeon tiles with Openforge 2.0 magnetic bases. I'm using Flashprint which is the program that comes with Flashforge printers but you can do this with any program and slicer.
Fat Dragon Games for Dragonlock files:
www.fatdragonga...
Openforge 2.0 Wooden Floors on Thingiverse:
www.thingiverse...
Printable Scenery:
www.printablesc...
Ebay 5mm Magnetic Balls (takes a couple weeks to ship from China):
www.ebay.com/it...
Another producer of 3D buildings, Via Ludibunda:
vialudibunda.co...
This was exactly what I was looking for. I wanted a system tiles that didn't have clips.
Very clever. I have the Dragonlock sets as well and was looking for a way to connect them on the fly. Glad to see some one do it well.
This is a very cool project. I myself have done your process you outline here however, I found that the brittle nature of the plastic and the strong magnets causes them to frequently crack.
I love the magnetized bases and would look at combining just those with Hirst Arts pieces,
Superb video, very clear and informative instructions and an innovative, practical solution!
Dragonlock is cool but check out this new true tile system. It is designed off of wylochs armory and with a wall you still have enough room to place a mini next to the wall. It is perfect for recreating maps
I love Wylochs system and have his 3d tiles printed out
LOVE this idea!! I too love the look of the FDG tiles, but not the wall height. I'd also rather have a 1.25" floor tile (Wyloch tile) vs the standard 1" floor. Got a buddy who is going to launch a Kickstarter later this year for this exact same thing I mentioned. Will most likely thin down his floor height like you showed and use the OpenForge magnetic bases!!! Seems most of the print time is spent printing the thick floors anyways!!
I'm kind of digging the True Tiles, with the slightly larger spacing as well. I feel kind of bad, because I have a bunch of Hirst arts, which isn't exactly compatible... but I HATE that 1/2 a tile is taken up by walls and becomes unusable for minis. though, I did notice some 3d printing "additions" that you can put walls on. That may be something I look at too. Since I am just starting, I can play with things... but I really like the magnetic system, too.
Can I game at your house?! LOL!
Another great video by the way.
Your videos are fantastic. I picked up a flashforge finder, have heeded all your advice - got painter's tap, one of those little palette removal tool things, lowered the heights of everything. Bought some magnetic bearings, have to wait for them to arrive first. But really happy now. All that's left is to start painting this stuff!
I might start printing the monster manual at some point but I find it hard to prioritise what to print and I think it won't come out as well as the terrain.
I feel like 3D printing is an action economy/logistical time problem rather than a money problem. I can only do x prints a day or overnight so I have to make sure I'm using the time wisely. Finding it hard to think what's the optimal ratio of floors to corners to walls at the moment.
I'm glad my videos are helpful! One thing to note is that I switched to using the glue stick method exclusively over the blue tape because it kept the prints straight.
Cool, I've been using glue too. I still get slight bending sometimes though and it's hard to remove them. I don't actually understand how to remove the tray either, haha, I'm too scared to attempt it.
So now, three years later, what have you learned? I'm just getting into 3d printing now, and have had the printer running non-stop for 2 weeks. I guess it varies dm to dm, but I'm trying to find examples of what constitutes a useful set (not finding you need more pieces constantly when you play) and the balance between print order/piece usefulness vs. print time cost.
This is remarkably cool! You are also pretty amazing with your attention to detail, and attention to usefulness. I prefer to display my maps on the screen, but I am very seriously tempted to do this.
This looks like a nice compromise between systems. I actually raised the height of the walls to 2" to match Tom's paper terrain. I then added a triangular physical clip system + 2 holes on each side for magnets. Your system looks great tho!
do you have a link to your clip? I wanted to add clips to my dragonlock tiles.
This is just too Damn cool! Thank you for sharing with us!
Fantastic job you did with the video!
Great idea! Gonna go do some printing this weekend. Thank you for creating & posting this video.
Brilliant! I have got to try these! Thanks for sharing!
This is exactly what I want to do. Thanks for the vid and links. Very helpful!
You did an awesome job with combining the 2 tile sets to make them into a very handy yet very appealing DIY set 👍 What 3D printer do you use for your printing? and have you ever come across a tile set of a hexagonal layout?
DAMMIT this works so well, now im mad. I made about 100 true tiles with the clip basing and did not want to mess with magnets because i fared fucking up the polarity. But BALL magnets dammit now ill need to break off my true tile bases and replace them with magnets...thank you but dammit wish id seen this sooner..
hey, I was wondering if you did it, after all. Because true-tiles are bigger (than the tiles in this video). How did you do it?
if you "resize" the magnetic base, would it not resize the magnet-holes (and make them ineffective?)
I think you might be able to cut+paste into a larger model once they are the right size. It might actually not be terribly difficult to rebuilt a base at any size if you've got some patience and the right software.
Acetone also works great when bonding 3D printed parts together. It chemically "welds" them together. Just a thought, I imagined it would be cheaper then buying super glue. Another great video!!!!! Looking forward to the next one!!!
Great video seen another CZcamsr have like a metal sheet under the base to help keep the metal balls I'm coming out
I recognize those pieces. Those are devon jones's pieces. His stuff is the reason I pulled the trigger on a 3d printer.
Yes, he is awesome. Make sure to support him on patreon!
Why use super glue? Acetone will work just as well. brush it over one connecting surface and then place the second on it, the two pieces will bond as the acetone works. Takes about 5 seconds to bond and it is ready.
Joel Reid I don't think acetone melts pla like it does abs
That is true. Acetone will not melt PLA... but you should not use PLA for this project, here is why:
I use ABS more often because live in a hot climate (warp in car), and as these gaming parts are for transport and regular use, as well as those clicking mechanisms requiring some flexibility, then the stronger flexible material would be wiser.
Brittle, low melting point material like PLE is not a wise option in this case.
Very cool system.
I really enjoy the way you reviewed these, seems dragonlock guy released a version 3, not sure if it's any better, would love to hear a review. But I like the solution that you came up with. (Also, good paint job!)
I haven't tried version 3. I was pretty happy with their original and since I don't use the locking mechanism, I don't think the upper part was changed, was it?
If you like printed dungeon tiles, perhaps Dungeon Blox May be of interest for you.
would be fun to have a floor tile( same as a regular) with a hidden magnet inside to work as a trap and the clicky sound would say you are in trouble.( for metal figurines )
Inspirational, great work dude
Got my 3d printer for the holidays and was stoked to try to print some of these out for my gaming group this week. however I need to order the magnets and also find out how to use your method of lowering the walls and bases. The software my printer uses will not allow me to put things below the bed level.
felton smith use Cura or craft ware for slicing software
Maurice Sharp I have a davinci printer so it seems like I can use other software but it's a bit tricky to convert it to the 3w (I tin it'd called) file so my printer will read it.
What I like to do is just have a bunch of floor tiles and imply that there are walls around them. I find this quicker and you can have more time to place down props.
love all of this - what printer did you get? do you recommend it???? found the other video.... would love to see you do a "what I've learned" set of videos....
This is fantastic!
just found this video and it is soooo nice to see them fit together like magic! i only craft with foam and other materials but this really made me consider trying 3d-printing... what printer is affordable and prints in quality like your tiles? any suggestions. Btw thats an subscription right there for you! :)
A LOT of people grab the Creality Ender 3 for around $300. You have to tweak it a little but there are a lot of tutorials on how to do that to get amazing prints. I would suggest that over my Flashforge Finder since it has a much larger build plate. Now, I have a Prusa MK3S but that is $800. Hope that helps!
@@gaminggeek241 thx for your honest answer. I have seen that prusa is going to sell a Mini and i quite like that design and of course the 400 Euro price with shipping and the filamentsensor-upgrade. But now i have to earn that "disposable income" first :) And they seem to have new orders currently pile up. Cause if you order today you could get your mini on june, so they say.
Very cool... Those bases are really cleverly designed, I like how they can also line up in half-base increments too.
I'm curious - how easy do you think it would be to create multi-level setups from these sorts of tiles? Like, split-level rooms with stairs halfway along them, ledges, catwalks, bridges spanning the upper level of rooms, etc. For me I think the ability to build truly 3D game spaces would be a real draw.
If you look in the video, you'll see that there are two holes on the sides of the bases. It's designed so you can slip the 3d printer filament through those holes to create a stronger connection between tiles for use on second+ floors or for making semi-permanent buildings
Excellent, thanks :D
Devon Jones I am looking at some of your stuff now and was wondering if you have considered making the second floor base and wall pieces with magnetic bases as well.
Great video!
Brilliant video! Got a few questions: is it possible to use these walls on top of each other, sort of 2 or 3 levels?
Not by itself. It needs some kind of additional support which could be as simple as a piece of cardboard. I use sheet metal as the magnets stick to it nice and firm.
I wish dragon lock tiles had 1x1" even floors all the way up to the walls. I don't like the 'half inch wide flooring next to the walls.
I know this is 2 years later, but check out True Tiles.
@@ReliantLion I just switched from printing Dragonlock to True Tiles. Not looking back.
Wow, this is such a fantastic idea! Now I just need a 3D printer! LOL
Cool! But why didn't you make a combination of magnets and clips?
Back then, that wasn't an option but now you can do any number of configurations.
I have a 3d printer and have been printing for a while but I have yet to choose a tile system. I've looked at TrueTiles, OpenForge, Dragonlock etc. but I don't really know which one to choose. I am interested in low walls and easy set up at the table so OpenForge seems like a good choice. But I'm also going to need modern and sci-fi tile sets and would really appreciate any recommendations that you may have.
I also watched your HeroQuest build and would be interested in a link to the ball magnets you bought. I looked at the Ebay site but the prices seemed higher than what you mentioned in the video.
Did you see my comparison video here? czcams.com/video/MNXLm1n9ERI/video.html Others have also mentioned Dungeon Works. It really depends on whether or not you want to accurately replicate published maps or are okay with just approximations. I would mostly choose based on which design you like the best.
Here's the link to the magnets I purchased. Warning-it will take a month for shipping. www.ebay.com/itm/216Pcs-5mm-DIY-Magic-Beads-Magnetic-Balls-Puzzle-Silver/254580482217?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Nice video, Keep up the good work.
I love the idea. But I was thinking is there anyway to change the location of the magnets from the horizontal to the inside vertical and just print the wall/floor/base as one piece? And then make a small square piece to hold the magnets in place on the base?
Yes, definitely that would work. But you will probably need to create support rafts to span the bottom portion of the dungeon piece since it is hollow along the inside.
great video and well spoken instruction. WIsh Cura let me place objects on top of each other but I can find another program. What % infill did you use for your tiles? Fat Dragon says use 0% but I wonder if the walls will be too fragile.
I use 15% infill.
Good video! I really like the half wall height look and it will use less material! How do you handle secret doors though?
Some of my walls are full height so it is a mix of low and high which looks fine.
currently using Hirst Molds... wanting to move to 3d printing, would you say its worth it? I have a couple questions, how long does it take to print a piece? and how well does paint stick to your pieces?
Great idea with the magnets!
It depends in terms of what you want. Hirst Arts is great for detail and how flexible the system is since you have small building blocks to work with so you can customize each piece. 3D printing is easier because you don't have to cast but is slower because one piece takes hours to print--about six hours for four wall pieces at half height. Paint sticks to it well but you need to spray paint on primer first (which I did for Hirst Arts anyways). And pick black pla as any paint that scrapes off from handling won't be noticed very well.
I'm going to do a comparison video between 3d printing and Hirst Arts soon.
thanks, I appreciate the quick response. the magnetic connections are what is really selling it for me. and the excuse to get a 3d printer of course.
Yeah, it's awesome having a 3D printer! Making lots of stuff other than my dungeon pieces!
hey you could you use the 3d printer to make the molds and then make a lot of them that way
just make sure to paint them so the layer lines are not visable
What is the make/model of your 3D printer? I'm looking to invest in a printer so what is your recommendation? Looking at a price cap of $1K and I will likely use it quiet a bit once I figure it out.
Anyone know the cheapest place to get those magnets or any substitutes?
Great stuff - thanks! I'm curious about your white display cases in the intro. Are they a custom unit or something readily available ala IKEA or similar?
I bought them from Ikea. If you look at my "Tour the Nerd Cave" video, you can see what they are called.
That is a great idea!
Sorry to post on an older video, but can you give a good source to where you are purchasing the 5mm magnetic balls? There are some vendors on aliexpress, but Id like to get something that has been tested. Thanks!
The last order I made a couple months ago was from Aliexpress. I wish I could provide a link but vendors keep changing. I just picked the cheapest one and it got here within a month.
So I just got into 3D printing terrain this past month. Your video was a huge help in getting started and picking the right objects to print. huge help! Would you be willing to make a video showing how you make the doors? I am looking at the plans on Thingiverse and I an trying to work them out in my head how they go together. Can you help?
Glad that my video helped! I'm not 100% sure what you are asking--I don't adjust the doors nor frame at all but print them at full height. Are you asking how to put the doors together after printing? If so, PM me with your email and I can reply more specifically there.
@Gaminggeek Thank you for following up. Tonight i took a closer look and figured out i was being thick headed and it all made sense. Thanks for offering, keep up the great work and any more builds you are interested in doing, it would be awesome
Glad you figured it out!
Anyone getting in on the Tilescape DUNGEONS Kickstarter for modular terrain?
apparently its already setup for magnets or their clips.
Dragonlock has gotten a lot better since the first version you are showing here. Have you tried out the new one?
Yes, the new system is a lot better than the previous clips.
Nice video
Thanks for sharing.
How do you store your magnetic tiles? I currently have mine tossed in a plastic bin, but I worry if this will wear the magnets out.
I have mine thrown in a bin as well. Magnets will take a long time to wear out--more than your and your children's lifetime so I wouldn't worry about it.
Hey, thanks for the great video. How long does the print for one tile typically take?
the base takes like 45 minutes, a flat tile takes like an hour. A wall tile takes like 2-3 hours.
Do you have a new link to where you get the 5mm balls now. The link you have is for beads
Here's a decent price for them if you are in the US: amzn.to/3pPbg2A You could go with ebay but it took 3 months to ship from China.
I recently got my Finder. I am making tiles using the True Tile system. What are some of the methods for prepping and painting 3D printed tiles? Would I sand or prep the tiles?
I don't sand my tiles at all even though I print it on the lowest detail setting. The rough nature of the walls just fits with a dungeon setting. I sand spray paint with dark gray primer and then drybrush lighter grey on just the walls.
is there a way to put magnets in the walls (in a similar way that you put magnets to keep the floor tiles together) to minimise the gaps in the walls?
Yes, you could modify the walls to place a magnet there but you need to make sure the walls are perfectly aligned or else you risk tilting the floor tile a little. Check out my video for how to modify the walls to take a magnet: czcams.com/video/h2Ept7pH2bY/video.html
@@gaminggeek241 I'm off to watch that immediately, Thanks!
Your videos are amazing. The magnetic balls idea: Superb!
But please, can you tell me Where can I buy the first pieces, so I could start molding after them?
You get the digitial files from Thingiverse or Fat Dragon Games and then you need to print them off. If you don't have a printer, a lot of local libraries have them so tehcnically, you can print them off for free. Or check out your local maker's club.
Gaminggeek thx
Gaminggeek Unfortunately in my country it s not that common. =/
Have you experimented with magnetized hex pieces?
Have you tried 3mm balls? If so, do they work just as well?
Great Idea, can you answer a few questions? with your printer how long does it take for it to print one wall piece and 4 of them at full height? do you need the magnets because the pieces are to lite? do you have Dwarven forge pieces? how do these line up with them?
I don't remember for one piece but for four of them at full height, it takes about six hours. And I'm printing at the lowest resolution (.3). You don't have to have the magnets at all but I like having magnets to hold the pieces together. Without them, it feels like any jolt to the table will cause it to shift out of alignment unless you had a rubbery surface on which they were sitting. Also, if you use the clips for Dragonlock, those will keep them together as well, although the magnets are a lot faster.
Thanks for the reply
Is there an easy way to put the same magnetic base on a 2.5" inch ("true-tile style") base? (I just purchased Dragon's Rest - because it's very pretty) and i want the same magnetic floor system... :/ oh and i got dragon's rest because of your other video where you compare systems :) you are now my official influencer! :)
You would have to replace the notches on the TrueTiles base with Ian's clips. This isn't hard to do--rather than modifying, I would just use a blank square and then subtract out the space for the clips. Even easier than this would be to use Devon Jones' OpenLock base that already has a hole for the magnets (on the corners) that can fit TrueTiles floors. Use the magnetic version: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2740279/files
(I get that I'm 2 years too late on this comment, but wouldn't flipping the walls so they are facing each other make for a slightly faster print as it would reduce travel time between layers?)
Absolutely. Since the video, I have flipped the tiles to lessen travel distance.
scaling the base to 102% means it won't work mixing and matching openforge pieces? Wouldn't it be better to scale the dragonlock down? I guess that might mess with the 5mm cut...
after some testing I can say I like your approach @gaminggeek but I was getting warping from the base being too thin and still having layers of structure that didn't work well and the sizes not lining up with OpenForge/DwarvenForge. I ended up cutting the bottom 5mm like you but then also built back a mm or 2 of solid square for it to sit on until it matched OpenForge 2.0 floor heights. I then also scaled the tile's bottom XY down to 50mmx50mm (taking care to ignore the wall's overhangs) to get it OpenForge/DwarvenForge compatible. I also scaled the bases to 98% XY since OpenLock is set to 2in instead of 50mm. Phew. I want to upload the files to save any one else the trouble but I can't think of a way to restrict it to FDG purchasers
Yeah, I had problems with warpage too until I figured out that using a glue stick was the best method. It is possible to go the other way around and shrink the DL stuff down. But glad you got it to work.
would love to learn to make a helmet from scratch have any pointers
What 3D printer do you use?
Never mind, just saw your other video :)
Hi great vid! I was wondering if you could let me know what layer height you printed these with. thanks
I don't remember for sure but I think it is between .2 and .3. I used the fastest print setting which might be .28
Gaminggeek, okay thanks alot
Hey GG, were you able to print the wall/floor tiles support free? Thanks
Yes, no supports required.
Damn thats sick
Nice video, Thanks. I'm having trouble finding 5mm magnetic balls. Would 3mm work?
I don't know if they would be strong enough--you could experiment to see if they would work. I bought mine on ebay (shipped from China) and did a quick search and you can buy them there.
@@gaminggeek241 , thanks for the reply.
Just found your videos. so informative and helpful! I just bought myself a printer but i cant seem to find the 5mm magnet balls anymore. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Yeah, it's super hard to buy those now because I think they are considered a hazard for small kids who might swallow them. Newegg sometimes has them. Check Ebay and Alibaba too.
@@gaminggeek241 thanks for replying! I'll keep an eye out. I have another question, if you don't mind. How would I go about making magnetic walls only? No tile, just cavern or dungeon walls that can clip together and form on top of a battlegrip play mat?
@@corwynt16 Do you mean the magnets would attach the walls to one another? If so, I would use barrel magnets like in this video I did for Archon Studios terrain: czcams.com/video/qYB46-wbOHU/video.html
@@gaminggeek241 awesome. This something I'd like to do, but do you think I could make this work with something printed from fatdragon? Not sure where'd I'd stick the magnet if I lowered a tile low enough for just the wall to print, or could I slice one of their magnet tiles in half? Does this make sense?
@@corwynt16 I don't think I understand what you mean by "slice one of their magnet tiles." Here's another option that might work for you: www.ancientevilterrain.com
Almost a year later, have you gone back to plaster or still sticking with 3d printed terrain?
3D printing is still reigning.
How are the magnets arranged polarity wise, to ensure that you can do it in any arrangement?
The magnets are freely moving balls inside of the slots so you don't have to worry about polarity.
Ahhh gotcha. I suppose that makes sense haha.
I've printed 81 pieces now! (1 for each set of 8 magnets in 3 boxes). Now I just need to paint them. Do you have any advice on what colours to use? Yours looks great. I really like how you did the floor a different colour to the walls.
I have a couple of tips on making the tiles now that I've done it en masse:
1. When you say "sometimes there's misprints and they don't fit" - that's true, but I wouldn't advise shoving the magnet into the hole, I tried that a few times and it made problems. The magnets need to be able to spin inside for the tiles to click together, so it's best to just get a knife and scrape the inside until it fits.
Before I glue my bases on top, I grab a "snake" of magnets and use one end of it (has to be the same end every time) to tap at the magnet from each angle to make sure it isn't repelled. If it gets repelled, you'll have to pull the magnet out and scrape the inside a bit more with a knife to make sure the ball has space to spin.
2. Instead of putting a base on top of the other, if you pick up a snake of about 10 magnets and hold it horizontally and push it down so the end magnet lines up with the hole and the rest of the magnets are outside of the base, the magnet will work to the bottom of the hole and then you can pull the rest of the magnets away. Then just pull the rest of the magnets away, cover the previous hole with your finger and keep going round in a circle. You don't need to put anythnig on top of it and you can do one tile in about 5 seconds. (I don't know if this is useful advice because it's so hard to describe this in words).
I was using the openforge ones rather than dwarvenlock, but I followed your instructions and made the tiles half height. I also moved the entire tile down so it's very small, because I feel like the bases give enough height without wasting a lot of extra plastic. I know this makes it incompatible with other sets but this is my first set so it saves a lot of time and filament.
Thanks a tonne for this!
Alex, those are some great tips! Glad that you have so many pieces now--I'm sure your dungeons looks great. Check out my video here starting at 1:38 and you can see the colors that I use for my dungeon. I don't know if you are in the US, but I buy a dark grey from Lowes Valspar spray paint line called "Blindfold." Then I use a medium grey and then drybrush with a lighter grey as you can see in the video. I just leave the floor the same color as the spray paint.
The medium grey is from craft paint bottles, the Americana line called "Slate Grey" and the lighter highlight is "Grey Sky." Hope that helps!
czcams.com/video/iRB8U4IrmCo/video.html
Thanks so much, that's perfect! I live in the UK but I'm in a big city right near a huge art store so I'm sure I'll find something that works.
I really appreciate all the advice.
Do you now prefer these over the roll 20 set up on your gaming table?
I use both. With random dungeons for homebrew campaigns, I throw these together. But a lot of the published campaigns have pretty complicated maps (e.g. the caverns in "Princes of the Apocalypse") that would be difficult to recreate with 3D tiles.
What kind of printer do you have and where can i get one?
How to you do dungeon doors with the lower walls?
I print the walls at their normal height so they are taller than the walls.
What's your opinion of the 1.25 inch grid TrueTiles ?
I've never used them but it looks like a great solution since you have an extra quarter inch to accommodate the walls. I prefer slightly higher walls though, even though True Tiles are way easier to store as they stack on top of each other easily.
While you'd need to learn to use the different tools, it would be possible to make other tiles into 1.25 truetiles compatible tiles
What layer height did you print these at? .2mm or .1mm
I think it was actually .28mm
So door tiles and special pieces you just leave the 'wall' height alone right? How'd you address the cave tiles?
Yes, I keep the special pieces at regular height. It looks fine with the shortened walls. I kept the cave tiles regular height so they take longer to print.
Gaminggeek What slicer did you use to mod/blend the tiles with? Cura won't do it. Netfabb Basic won't allow me to merge.
I use Flashprint which is FlashForge's slicer. You can download here: www.flashforge-usa.com/support/downloads/ but I don't know if it works with other manufacturer's printers.
Gaminggeek I figured out how to use tinkercad! Full speed ahead now
Great! Glad you found a solution!
Do you think 3mm Magnetic balls would also work?
I have the same question. What did you find out?
I am curious, do you know approximately how much these cost to print (after you purchase the files)? I have Hirst Arts, and can get the dental plaster stuff locally, so it isn't too expensive. I am curious what the difference is in economics. Not that I have 3d printer... YET. :-)
I did have a cost chart somewhere but I can't find it right now. I think it was like 50 cents per piece in pla and maybe another 50 cents with magnets? Sorry, I'm just going from memory so I might be off but I know for sure it was under a dollar per piece.
What I do know is that if you are using dental plaster (I was using Merlin's Magic where shipping was super expensive), casting with Hirst Arts is more expensive but if you are casting in something cheaper (I switched to getting Hydrostone from my local pottery supplier) it is cheaper to cast.
Ah, Merlin Magic, yes. It was like $35 or so for 25 lbs. (50ish for 50 lbs).
Good to know about prices
So, I ended up pulling the trigger on a 3d printer, mainly because of this video. Now, I just need to get it put together, upgraded, and start printing these. Have you looked at True Tiles? www.thingiverse.com/thing:1598221
They seem to fix the biggest issue I have with Hirst Arts (and by extension other 1x1 grid tile systems)... walls take up too much room.
@@gaminggeek241 So, here 2 years later... your video is the main reason I got into 3D Printing. :-) I think I have about a dozen tiles printed, and that is the main reason I got a 3D Printer. One day, I really need to get a bunch of tiles printed. :-)
@@KevinRank Do you have photos anywhere? And did you go with Dragonlock or another brand?
what is the diameter of the magnets your using in the OpenForge bases?
5mm. Link is in the description.
Gaminggeek thanks, I went ahead and found a different magnet supplier, K&J Magnetics. if you ever make any multi level environments using Openforge I think that would make a very helpful video
Neat
What 3D printer would you recommend?
There are so many out there. I have the Flashforge Finder which is a little more expensive but plug-and-play.
Thanks, I'll look deeper into it when funds allow.
Im having trouble finding the magnetic balls.... anyone anyone?
Yeah, they are sometimes hard to find. I've had luck with Aliexpress--here's a link and if you choose shipping from China, it's half off. It will take a month to get to you if you don't mind the extra time. Otherwise, choose shipping from a US seller. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003379671451.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6a12cd2a8MMxq7&algo_pvid=99a5eeab-0786-4f2e-8a8a-667b5cabcfb2&algo_exp_id=99a5eeab-0786-4f2e-8a8a-667b5cabcfb2-18&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000025508036032%22%7D
What's the material cost for each piece?
magnets bump up the price significantly
for me I can get 216 magnets for €12.50, that means (216/8) 27 magnetic pieces.
Magnets alone will raise the cost by €0.46 a piece.
The tiles themselves I can't tell you, but the cost is pretty cheap.
1 kg of filament is around €20, whcih will let you print plenty of tiles (can't tell you how many exactly)
I think I estimated about $1 per piece with the magnets. Blazicken is right that the magnets are a big part of the cost due to the fact that you use 8 of them per piece.
that is fucking awesome
Hi!
Did you participate on dragonlock kickstarter?
Yes I did! Have been looking for a cheap way to make a village full of buildings so this is it!
i wonder about the village and magnet combination. you making very interesting, informative, and good quality! keep up the good work
Fantastic idea & video! Like'd & sub'd
That printable scenery is nice, but too fucking expensive.