Dorman 926-195 Passenger Side CV Axle Shaft Support Bearing Bracket for Select Toyota Models amz.run/7VZo BRACKET, DRIVE SHAFT BEARING Toyota Part # 43457-0T010 Passenger's Side Axle Seal/Output Shaft Seal Toyota Part # 90311-40039
This video is long but I LOVE it bcuz it shows what a pain this design gives us. Thank you for letting us see what a royal headache it is working on this axle. I’ve done ‘06 Subi OB and ‘97 RAV4 axles- way easier! This Camry axle should come with psych therapy included.
LOL. I feel you. Yeah, it's a bad design on many Toyotas and other vehicles that have a center carrier bearing in place which a majority of cases never comes out. Some Nissan, Mazda, Honda and other vehicles have a similar design as well. I once ran into a major issue on a 2010 Nissan Rogue with a badly seized one and would never come out even after heating with oxygen and mapp torches. Spent many hours on that one back in the day (worse than this Camry) before I started CZcams. Only pictures for that job. I agree they're a royal pain in the arse.
Moose- I’m still working on this SOB. I’m glad you didn’t edit out the ugly in that darn carrier bearing like all the other vids. I’m just a DIY’er. I’m going insane. But watching you, a real mechanic struggling it keeps it real. IE/ I’m gonna be on this a while. Thanks again, I thought it was just me.
Lol. I hear you. If you could, taking a break usually helps because you will get frustrated. Come back to the job after a break. Usually that helps. I've had situations where I stopped and took a break either a short 20 to 30 min or so or leave it for the next day. Next day everything worked out and butter smooth. Happens to the best of us too sometimes. Thanks for your input I appreciate it. You can do it!
If you enjoyed this video and found it helpful please support my channel by hitting the LIKE 👍and SUBSCRIBE buttons and turning on the bell notifications to get notified when I put out a new video.
I did this to 2ARFE, best is to install bracket and slide axle in it works fantastic. i tried with bracket out, that gives me lot of problem alinging dowel pin.
bracket first, use two bolts to hold it in place, install axle it will slide right in no c clip. then unbolt the bracket turn it face down then hammer into place on the bearing install clip. bolt it to the block, done.
I recommend to replace the axle seal any time an axle gets removed from the transmission as when you reinstall the old or a new axle 9 out of 10 times it will often damage the existing seal and start leaking. So therefore I recommend to always replace the axle seal any time an axle gets removed from the transmission. That is just my experience from working on cars for the last 16 years.
please list part number. Need that gasket inner for the differential. I got the axel bracket 43457-0T010 . You are smart to buy the bracket. It is hell to get it out.
Dorman 926-195 Passenger Side CV Axle Shaft Support Bearing Bracket for Select Toyota Models amz.run/7VZo Passenger's Side Axle Seal/Output Shaft Seal Toyota Part # 90311-40039
Right. The bracket almost never comes out where the carrier bearing sits in. In 95% or so of the time they never come out unless you live somewhere where there is little to no rust/salt and they're a pain to remove so I just end up buying a new one to not deal with the hassles and the job itself takes quite some time even without fighting with the bracket so I just get a new one. Some guys may use a shop press to heat and press out the old carrier bearing bracket, but it may not be worth the time so a new one may be a better option in most cases. It might add a 100 or 150 dollars or so to the cost, but it's worth it and it can be removed for next time. Just make sure to put a lot of grease on the carrier bearing and inside the bracket and installation will be easier and removal will be easier for next time if there is a next time.
@@moosemobileautorepair people say CHIEF Professional Long-Barrel Air Hammer will do the job but I am scared that it won't work then no car. Some people takes 5 days to get it out. I can't pay 1000 for axel change one side.
A standard air hammer should work fine to drive the axle out as long as there is enough power. Once it's off the dowel pins off the bracket it should just come out. Just take your time while doing the job and you'll do fine. Alternatively, if you don't have an air hammer you can use a long chisel or punch and a hammer to tap the axle out.
@@moosemobileautorepair thanks, but we want something that just yank it out right away right, getting under the car it is no fun. I want to see the vdo how people use air hammer one time done. so hard
After watching you struggle with getting the axle fully seated in the trans, it made me wonder why that is the reason why ive seen others bolt up the new bearing bracket on the engine BEFORE trying to get the axle in. Maybe that would have made it easier? Hard to know for sure but maybe doing that would it serve as an allignment tool of sorts so it would be perfectly aligned and slid right in. Sure you would have to have delt with the snap ring under the car but do you think this method would have helped? Your thoughts?
If you bolt the bracket on the engine first then you will have a hard time getting the axle and the carrier bearing in. It is not easy to get the carrier bearing inside the bracket/housing because it is a tight fit. That's why I did it off the vehicle first before installing. I used a rubber mallet to drive the carrier bearing in place before installing on to the vehicle. It will be a lot harder to do it that way if the carrier bearing is not installed first.
@@moosemobileautorepair yeah it did seem like quite a tight fit so I can see why it would be a struggle as well. I think im gonna take this job on my 2017 camry here soon. Your video helped me learn what to expect and the hangups involved. Much appreciated sir.
Hi, what length of bearing race punch you have used, i am planning to do it tommorrow. Thanks for your video. Also if you install bracket into CV AXLE instead of engine and while hitting the bracket with race punch will not you damage dowel pin.. When i removed the CV AXLE with bracket in place the dowel pin got damaged..
Hi when removing CV axle, this is what happened to me. Bracket doesnt want to come out of dowel pin so stuck. i took out the bolts from bracket. i used air hammer like you showed in video, since bracket is stuck at dowel pin and cv axle is seized at bracket, air hammer to bend dowel pin to get that cv axle out....
You have to be careful because you cannot get the axle out if the bracket is still stuck on the dowel pins. What you should do is place a pry bar in between/middle of the bracket from underneath and push towards the engine as you are prying, but very carefully do you don't break anything and while you are prying to move the bracket off the dowels and you should be able to get it free. It takes a bit of patience and maneuvering the bracket out of the way. You do not want to damage or cut the dowel pins otherwise the bracket won't line up properly when you put it back and you will have a hard time getting the axle into the transmission. I used to the air hammer afterwards making 100% sure that the bracket is off the dowels completely otherwise damage will occur.
Do you mean to align the bracket on to the dowel pins? The dowel pins are fixed on to the engine. You really have to wiggle and play around with it to get it to line up you will need a pry bar to carefully pry back and forth to line it up.
I already have multiple Milwaukee impact wrenches/guns. That was a very old video and the air compressor doesn't allow full power for that particular Mac Tools air impact wrench/gun because it uses a bit of CFM. I did also have another electric cordless Mastercraft impact that I got from Canadian Tire eons ago that I used in the video for the axle nut which works relatively well.
Dorman 926-195 Passenger Side CV Axle Shaft Support Bearing Bracket for Select Toyota Models
amz.run/7VZo
BRACKET, DRIVE SHAFT BEARING
Toyota Part # 43457-0T010
Passenger's Side Axle Seal/Output Shaft Seal
Toyota Part # 90311-40039
This video is long but I LOVE it bcuz it shows what a pain this design gives us. Thank you for letting us see what a royal headache it is working on this axle. I’ve done ‘06 Subi OB and ‘97 RAV4 axles- way easier! This Camry axle should come with psych therapy included.
LOL. I feel you. Yeah, it's a bad design on many Toyotas and other vehicles that have a center carrier bearing in place which a majority of cases never comes out. Some Nissan, Mazda, Honda and other vehicles have a similar design as well. I once ran into a major issue on a 2010 Nissan Rogue with a badly seized one and would never come out even after heating with oxygen and mapp torches. Spent many hours on that one back in the day (worse than this Camry) before I started CZcams. Only pictures for that job. I agree they're a royal pain in the arse.
Moose- I’m still working on this SOB. I’m glad you didn’t edit out the ugly in that darn carrier bearing like all the other vids. I’m just a DIY’er. I’m going insane. But watching you, a real mechanic struggling it keeps it real. IE/ I’m gonna be on this a while. Thanks again, I thought it was just me.
Lol. I hear you. If you could, taking a break usually helps because you will get frustrated. Come back to the job after a break. Usually that helps. I've had situations where I stopped and took a break either a short 20 to 30 min or so or leave it for the next day. Next day everything worked out and butter smooth. Happens to the best of us too sometimes. Thanks for your input I appreciate it. You can do it!
If you enjoyed this video and found it helpful please support my channel by hitting the LIKE 👍and SUBSCRIBE buttons and turning on the bell notifications to get notified when I put out a new video.
I did this to 2ARFE, best is to install bracket and slide axle in it works fantastic. i tried with bracket out, that gives me lot of problem alinging dowel pin.
bracket first, use two bolts to hold it in place, install axle it will slide right in no c clip. then unbolt the bracket turn it face down then hammer into place on the bearing install clip. bolt it to the block, done.
Thank you for the video great job by the way, do you recommend to replace the axle seal or only if its leaking? thank you
I recommend to replace the axle seal any time an axle gets removed from the transmission as when you reinstall the old or a new axle 9 out of 10 times it will often damage the existing seal and start leaking. So therefore I recommend to always replace the axle seal any time an axle gets removed from the transmission. That is just my experience from working on cars for the last 16 years.
please list part number. Need that gasket inner for the differential. I got the axel bracket 43457-0T010 . You are smart to buy the bracket. It is hell to get it out.
Dorman 926-195 Passenger Side CV Axle Shaft Support Bearing Bracket for Select Toyota Models
amz.run/7VZo
Passenger's Side Axle Seal/Output Shaft Seal
Toyota Part # 90311-40039
Right. The bracket almost never comes out where the carrier bearing sits in. In 95% or so of the time they never come out unless you live somewhere where there is little to no rust/salt and they're a pain to remove so I just end up buying a new one to not deal with the hassles and the job itself takes quite some time even without fighting with the bracket so I just get a new one. Some guys may use a shop press to heat and press out the old carrier bearing bracket, but it may not be worth the time so a new one may be a better option in most cases. It might add a 100 or 150 dollars or so to the cost, but it's worth it and it can be removed for next time. Just make sure to put a lot of grease on the carrier bearing and inside the bracket and installation will be easier and removal will be easier for next time if there is a next time.
@@moosemobileautorepair people say CHIEF Professional Long-Barrel Air Hammer will do the job but I am scared that it won't work then no car. Some people takes 5 days to get it out. I can't pay 1000 for axel change one side.
A standard air hammer should work fine to drive the axle out as long as there is enough power. Once it's off the dowel pins off the bracket it should just come out. Just take your time while doing the job and you'll do fine.
Alternatively, if you don't have an air hammer you can use a long chisel or punch and a hammer to tap the axle out.
@@moosemobileautorepair thanks, but we want something that just yank it out right away right, getting under the car it is no fun. I want to see the vdo how people use air hammer one time done. so hard
After watching you struggle with getting the axle fully seated in the trans, it made me wonder why that is the reason why ive seen others bolt up the new bearing bracket on the engine BEFORE trying to get the axle in. Maybe that would have made it easier? Hard to know for sure but maybe doing that would it serve as an allignment tool of sorts so it would be perfectly aligned and slid right in. Sure you would have to have delt with the snap ring under the car but do you think this method would have helped? Your thoughts?
If you bolt the bracket on the engine first then you will have a hard time getting the axle and the carrier bearing in. It is not easy to get the carrier bearing inside the bracket/housing because it is a tight fit. That's why I did it off the vehicle first before installing. I used a rubber mallet to drive the carrier bearing in place before installing on to the vehicle. It will be a lot harder to do it that way if the carrier bearing is not installed first.
@@moosemobileautorepair yeah it did seem like quite a tight fit so I can see why it would be a struggle as well. I think im gonna take this job on my 2017 camry here soon. Your video helped me learn what to expect and the hangups involved. Much appreciated sir.
Hi, what length of bearing race punch you have used, i am planning to do it tommorrow. Thanks for your video.
Also if you install bracket into CV AXLE instead of engine and while hitting the bracket with race punch will not you damage dowel pin.. When i removed the CV AXLE with bracket in place the dowel pin got damaged..
I forget which length bearing race punch I used, but any 12 or 18 inch length should do and will make the job a little bit easier.
Hi when removing CV axle, this is what happened to me.
Bracket doesnt want to come out of dowel pin so stuck. i took out the bolts from bracket.
i used air hammer like you showed in video, since bracket is stuck at dowel pin and cv axle is seized at bracket, air hammer to bend dowel pin to get that cv axle out....
You have to be careful because you cannot get the axle out if the bracket is still stuck on the dowel pins. What you should do is place a pry bar in between/middle of the bracket from underneath and push towards the engine as you are prying, but very carefully do you don't break anything and while you are prying to move the bracket off the dowels and you should be able to get it free. It takes a bit of patience and maneuvering the bracket out of the way. You do not want to damage or cut the dowel pins otherwise the bracket won't line up properly when you put it back and you will have a hard time getting the axle into the transmission. I used to the air hammer afterwards making 100% sure that the bracket is off the dowels completely otherwise damage will occur.
do you have any tip to align the dowel pin.
Do you mean to align the bracket on to the dowel pins? The dowel pins are fixed on to the engine. You really have to wiggle and play around with it to get it to line up you will need a pry bar to carefully pry back and forth to line it up.
Your impact gun sucks. Get a Milwaukee.
I already have multiple Milwaukee impact wrenches/guns. That was a very old video and the air compressor doesn't allow full power for that particular Mac Tools air impact wrench/gun because it uses a bit of CFM. I did also have another electric cordless Mastercraft impact that I got from Canadian Tire eons ago that I used in the video for the axle nut which works relatively well.