I just did this today on my Taurus. Very, very helpful. Dropping a fuel tank with nowhere to put the fuel and no lift is really challenging. Watching where to cut and how to do the job was a huge help. This made a four hour job take a half hour, with no broken clips or maimed wires. Thank you so much for posting this! Good work 👍
Did this on a one ton 1998 Dodge van out in the middle of nowhere. Bought an inverter to run off the battery and supply AC power for the tools. It was not practical to try to empty a full 38 gallon gas tank or try to drop it. Worked great in two hours we had it fixed and outta there. The van had plywood installed on the floors so no problem covering the hole. You do have to be aware of exhaust fumes under your car getting into the interior of the car and carbon monoxide poisoning everyone!! Make sure the hole is sealed again.
People did this on IROC-Z Camaros back in the late 80's. Dropping the tank on those was an absolute nightmare with the cross-link "state of the art" 😂 suspension in the way. So this is not a new idea. But this gent deserves accolades, he's very slick. Made it look easy and that's the mark of a true professional! 🥳
Thanks for the video, my fuel pump went out this pass Monday.took your idea and changed fuel pump motor my self. I cut access hole thru floor under back seat and changed pimp. Did not have to drop tank. THANKS for idea.
Using a gronder is a good idea for safety reasons. I would have taken a portable vacuum cleaner to remove the debris nefore temoving the fuel pump. The hard part for me is to determine the exact spot to cut out the opening. It would be nice to have a template for making the cut for me Chevy Tohoe.
Dude I used my Windstar's jack and got 2 stands, left the filler tube side connected and and dropped the other side. I still was able to get to the pump and change it without having to remove the heavy back seat and lift the carpet up & CUT the floor of a car. I'm happy I did it the correct way without modification to the chassis. Now the car still looks nice and stock without being jerry-rigged an exhaust fumes seeping up into the cabin😅
I have done this myself and it worked like a charm. It was during a flight and just feathered the prop until i had installed the new motor. No gliding home for me that day!
I have two Impalas - one 2004 and one 2010. The 2004 has the access panel and the 2010 doesn't. I asked the some mechanics and a dealer why they got rid of the access panel in the newer models and they stated its because changing the fuel pump without cleaning the tank leads to the new pump dying a quicker death... Chev and aftermarket pump manufacturers were getting tired of warrantying fuel pumps because people were dropping new pumps into dirty tanks. Some guys also told me it was because gas fumes were getting into passenger cabs... safety issue... but I dunno about that one. I also believe they took the easy access doors away so they force people to bring their car to the dealer / mechanic to have to pay mechanics to drop the tanks and replace the pump. So both reasons I believe are true. I JUST dropped the tank in my 2010 Impala and replaced the pump (yes I cleaned the tank) and it wasn't that bad a job. 2 hours true but not that bad. Yes - alot more work than just opening an access panel. I contemplated cutting an access door in (while the tank was dropped) for future repairs but decided against it because a support column was right there. Wouldn't see that if you cut from above. As for using a grinder... too many sparks flying around gas lines for my liking. And opening the lid with a steel screw driver - I'd use a non ferrous punch (brass?) to prevent sparks. AND - sorry to be so critical - but you gotta clean the top of the tank before opening that lid! It takes just a bit of dirt to screw up these in-tank pumps and mess up the fuel pressure regulator valve. The bugger manufacturers are putting the fuel pressure regulators on the pumps INSIDE the tanks now, and not on the fuel rails. Doesn't take much dirt to clog up these regulator valves (they are made so cheap now) and then you have this hard starting because dirt is letting fuel drain back into the tank. My 10 cents worth here. :)
@@ufartface I can't remember - I don't think so . I tend to use the high octane gas and only go to good national retailers. We had a problem up here with some individual immigrant run stations getting gas from questionable sources... it was found that some were getting gas with industrial chemicals mixed in and it was screwing up peoples cars. If I remember correctly, from what I saw in the tank, there was very little to no rust / dirt. But the car died a year ago due to a major head gasket leak at highway speed causing a hydro-lock and then implosion. It had 323000 km on it so it went to the wrecking yard...
The problem with this video is this: At some point out of the thousands people who replicate, a few will lack common sense, and after popping the top ring open (pick one of below): -inadvertently trigger their grinder causing a spark at the grinder motor brushes -cause a spark while unplugging electrical cable because they left key on and not disconnected battery -tip over a filament or halogen work light which will break above the opening All of these (and more) can end that person's life...because the vapor (not the gasoline itself) that escapes up when you open the top of the tank, is highly explosive
The sacrifice is not having to pay potential 700 dollars to a mechanic for a fuel pump replacement .....good video !! You'll help a lot of people with this information
2000-2005 Buick Lesabres and Pontiac Bonnevilles have an access cover in the trunk, you just remove the cover and the pump is right there. I bought my 2001 LeSabre with an inoperative fuel gauge and was ecstatic when i found out I didn't have to drop the tank to fix it, I replaced the whole fuel pump assembly while I was at it, my hat is off to GM for whomever engineered that, it was a stroke of genius.
Revived Life Yes it was, there is a special tool for removing it I think but mine was rusted and even though I sprayed it with wd40 and let it soak it was still a pain, and don't use a torch to loosen it, I didn't have a brass punch as is recommended to prevent sparks so I just used a steel one, I was afraid to use my air hammer with a chisel also, I ended up destroying the lock ring, so it is a good idea to have a new one on hand just in case, you can always return it, other than that, another vehicle that has an inside access under the back seat is the 1999 and up to I think 2002 kia sportage, my neighbor has a 1999 and I replaced the fuel pump on it for him, that one is screwed down which was nice, very easy to remove.
Dam! That was Fucking Beautiful! I'm going to do that to my 2002 Saturn and it gave me a great idea! I'm going to cut a hole under the front seat, make a hinge for the seat and Blamo! No more stopping for bathroom breaks for my wife! If something hits your windshield and it looks like a turd, sorry folks.
Heres the thing, in the event that you are in a accident and the tank catches fire the fire will waste no time getting into the cabin of the car. if your not going to make a proper door for the gapping hole you just cut I would recommend doing this for safety purposes.
I thought you were going to put everything back together,.. before you checked to see if the problem was solved. So many do this, including myself in my younger days. Just because something is NEW doesn't guarantee it works!!! Been there too many times. Good video. PEACE
@@alexalfaro1301 Keep looking on CZcams Alex. They're putting new videos out everyday. MAIN THING BRO, BE SAFE. Remember, an EMPTY gas tank will blow faster than a FULL tank, all to do with vapor. Just be careful. If you're going to grind on the bitch, stick some cardboard, a fuckin beer box, ANYTHING, just something between the tank and where you're going to cut. Hope you make some progress. BE SAFE DAMMIT.
I did this many times on old camaro's. Your video was perfect because I needed the location of where to cut. Thank you sir! Screw all the negative comments. Those mostly come from a bunch of sissies that have never worked on anything. I found your video very useful.
+firbyd, is you time freezing machine for rent? I'd like to save all the time your strategy would take. Horse and buggy is the way to go anyway. No toxic exhaust gasses or high speed fatality collisions then.
+firbyd, so when criminals work hard and cops have to work hard too just because those criminals can't find beneficial work due to laws like min wage or restrictive prohibitions on farming private fallow fields (T. Jefferson had words about that) then we should appreciate their hard work? No. Hard work is not appreciated. We pay (show appreciation to) people like Asians for making our electronics bc they are quick and sufficiently good at it. Unemployed high school football players have a hard time soldering wires to chip boards. They must deserve more pay for all their hard work since it's difficult for them to find the patience needed.
I’ve been doing my own auto repair for 20 years and would usually never do this. But it’s like 2 degrees in Chicago and I’m selling the car. So hell with it, I’m doing this tomorrow 😉
That's a good video! FYI, my wife's 02 VW Jetta has a fuel pump access door from the factory. That's under the back seat. And my 2019 VW Jetta has the same.
I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota pick-up that I intend to keep. I will certainly consider this in the future as me and my teenager are learning all General repairs and eventually, the truck will go to him. Our fuel pump lasted six years. I will follow up with a tune-up. We replaced six pulleys, the battery, thermostat, top radiator hose and proportioner valve on our brake lines. Good to know that creating this access panel is possible, although ours may not be done from home. Price gouging in Southern California , extremely slow turn around times are what have driven us to attempt to do most of the work ourselves. I wish I was as comfortable as you are working with fittings, clips, and miscellaneous parts. ♡ Thank you.
Daniel Engling I love my Dodge Dakota. HAVE had since 2009, so that may seem like a, lot of work, but it's the maintenance for an eighteen year old pickup. Get the 4wd model maybe. I love that it has antitheft, a cab, will haul, and manual windows, since all electric can be a pain. Most parts can be purchased from Car Quest with the exception of a few that are dealer specific Mopar parts.
Daniel Engling Before we change Fuel Pump Assembly/module (WHATEVER it's called? I think I had no idea it's a cylinder like a fire extinguisher) we're changing spark plugs out to rule out, if it NEEDS a fuel pump, but I imagine it does. All I know is it's shivering, with a light, rough idle @ stop lights. Since beginning to "tinker" have since realized mechanics pull $120 an hour + $195 diagnostic. I'm not ashamed try to diy what we are capable of doing ourselves.
i hadn't thought of this. i am about to replace a fuel pump in my 2013 chevy sonic that conveniently doesn't have the access door the aveo did. I will try this shears method. thanks
Grinder sparks are pieces of molten metal. Avoid using a grinder around the fuel tank. And if you gave no other ootion dont go all the way through. Once you have patiently worked it until its very thin use a punch to finish the job. Stay safe and live to see another day!!!
Crazy dude! Lol I made my access hole by first hammering a nail through the metal just about half a cm in or less enough to put a flashlight and see in the hole so I knew exactly where to avoid, like lines/hose and wiring but also the tank so I drew a rough circle and used cable cutters basically wire cutters and eventually after cut by cut, I got the hole made, the edges are rough but I'm ok with that because I only need enough clearance to pull the pump assembly which I accomplished and life has been all the worth while easier ever since, I couldnt trust a grinder though because I personally only pull the fpr off the rail to relieve pressure and I dont run with no pump relay to drain lines and I knew there was fuel in the lines so for me my only method I went with was the hand tools no power tools because even 1 spark and I'd be sol! which I was aware of so I went the safe route but also a good idea I do when i replace fuel pumps, keep your windows or door open and run an extension cord to your ride and plug in a small fan to vent the vapors as you work, this way you avoid vapor build up and decrease the risk altogether
Thanks so much for the video. Got a 1996 Honda Accord (over 300,000 miles) that is hard to start after sitting over night. I have tried many things hoping to avoid pulling the tank. I am pretty sure my fuel pump is back leaking back into the tank when it sits a while. Going to give this a shot. 👍
This is why my dream car is a 1963 Chevy Nova 6 cyl 3 speed manual trans - fuel pump accessible, it's on the engine block.....no expensive, iffy electronic ECM's, sensors, injectors to suddenly crap out while driving across a bridge or in the middle of a desert.....only electronic part is the radio. Simple easy to repair / maintain - early Chevy Nova's were the best sensible to own car GM ever made......I want one
We did this can opwner technique on my 95 jeep grand cherokee. We first went to the pick-and-pull and experimented on a scrapped out jeep. Worked great! Now if there is a problem it may take 20 minutes to change out
This is an excellent way to avoid dealing with a full tank of gasoline, but it can be made much safer. Since the ideal explosive mixture of gasoline vapor and air is near 14.7 to 1 ( a range on either side of this ratio), why not be safe and set a fan to blow under the floor between the floor and top of the tank. This will prevent any explosive mixture from forming while you are removing the floor panel. It will then be just as safe to remove the pump from the tank as it would be with the tank out of the vehicle. It is dangerous to do the task either way because of static electricity discharge igniting the vapors, so use the fan blowing over the work area while you work on taking the pump unit out and putting it back into the tank. You can also cut the hole with a jigsaw with a short metal-cutting blade if clearance allows, or maybe drill starter holes and cut it out with tin snips if the metal is not too thick to cut. Any task involving fuel can kill you if you don't use common sense about safety, so be very careful around fuel and tanks.
EXCELLENT suggestions! All these things are good ideas, thanks for sharing. Just be extra sure on the clearance with a jig saw if you go that route. A puncture would be bad.
did this to my daughters 07 Mazda 3 only thing is I cut 3 sides, folded the metal over, did the job, shot rustoleum on the exposed metal, folded it back then siliconed the open area to make it moisture tight. works like a charm
I hate how they put the access gate just big enough to unplug the harness, those quick connect lines suck so you can probably guess what I did with mine to swap a pump
I did this on my 03 Taurus last month, used the video for reference on the hole location . The job came out fine car runs well , a couple of notes, don't cut all the way through on the cut in the back not much clearance there just skive a line and and and the hatch you cut will open like a door also you will have to reuse the locking ring as you will not be able to slide it over the electrical harness . If you are concerned about your cutting skills you can remove the bolts on the rear of the straps and there is enough flex in the hoses that the tank will drop about 3 inches giving extra room . You can leave the battery hooked up as when the key is off there is no current to the pump you can however easily remove the pump relay [ it's under the hood] for extra safety. All this being said I have to agree with some posters that this is not a job for a rookie and a 4 inch angle grinder requires a fair amount of skill to use safely , and if you don't have a fire extinguisher handy don't do it consider what you are getting into before you start if your not so sure drop the tank.
You didn't mention that the gas hoses would be quite easily cut as you are cutting the hole in the floor. That allows you to use your fire extinguisher, if the tank is nearly full, or, make the front page of the local paper if the tank is nearly empty.
it's a great idea and I have done it on many vehicles...Safely by using a hammer and chisel and not a grinder. Old rusty gas lines on top will leak. Boom 😮. Grinding near gasoline and sucking up gas fumes into your vacuum explodes from the sparks in the electric motor.😮
I did this on a 1993 Mercury sable, using just a large pair of diagonal cutting pliers. The metal on that car was thin enough that I could just tear and peel at it. Definitely wasn't pretty, but it worked.
Can catch interior on fire from sparks. I use a drill and then metal shears with heavy leather gloves. Also - good to suck the junk from the bottom of the tank - using a hand pump with some long tubes that run a few feet away into a bucket. The wasted 2-3 gallons of gas are a great investment to prevent junk from blocking the fuel intake on the bottom of the pump. My theory is that junk is what actually burns out many pumps - they starve for fuel, overheat the pump seal and destroy it's suction/pumping. Also, I get full power from having raw fuel 100% going into the system. Extreme care needed to be used to not start a fire or inhale gas - lots of fresh air and all windows down... if you are really thrifty you can install a big filter in-line into your hand pump and re-use that fuel...
Before you open the tank up, scrape, brush, or vacuum the crap off the access to your busted fuel pump. Then open the tank access to the fuel pump! Not all filters to the pump keeps the dirt out of your brand new pump. Sometimes not replacing the filter causes the filter to disintegrate due to age, fouling and burning the pump out. Some new pumps do come with attached filters, but a lot do not. Why take a chance?
I always wondered why more home mechanics don't do something like this. I mean, who the Hell is going to see that patch after the job is done? Quite smart.
I would vacuum up the squirrel stuff along with the dirt first BEFORE loosening the ring to prevent junk from falling into the tank to cause even more issues along the way.
You’re in a crash, your legs are stuck. Fuel is gushing out, and you cut a ‘hatch.’ Broken legs aren’t nearly as bad as skin grafting & inhalation, if you live through it. Not to mention the deep existential crisis from the regret. Drop the tank. If it’s dirty, use FC01, or replace the tank. A new tank for my car costs $80. That’s $25 cheaper than the pump unit. Do the job. It’s hard work but the challenge is good for you, plus you get to inspect & clean/replace things - like evicting a spider & egg sack blocking the canister purge valve (true story). Chris Fix does it. You can do it.
don't forget the sealant. after you cut the hole and replace the pump, what you should have done is the sheet metal but also some rtv to keep it watertight. boy am I glad I have a vehicle where they thought with their heads and made a factory access door. the wife's GM on the other hand is one of the drop tank types. I think they do it to try to make money. nice vid appreciate you sharing.
mine is a venture van and I am going to use your method and that way I don't have drop the tank.If you here of a guy blowing up his van in Westminster,md…..that will be me.Thanks for the tip
i used a die grinder. but be careful to cut in exact spot. his method is fine if you are only replacing the pump itself. there is another part of the wiring harness you cannot access without dropping the tank. I cut the wires for that and spliced the new wiring in to avoid dropping the tank
I was thinking the newer Taurus has a hole already why not make one for the older cars like you said no one can see it and it makes a hell of a lot easier I was going to buy a $200 floor jack and a $100 crossbar attachment after seeing this I'll just get a grinder save a lot of money and hard work and end up with a tool I can use elsewhere. Thanks great idea.
I love it, the previous video says don’t cut it open, next video tells me to cut it lol. Just remember if it was easy everyone would be a mechanic. I highly advise not to be cutting above your tank. And also verify your electrical is good prior to jumping to replace a part where it could just be a relay or cam sensor preventing you from firing.
Thanks Dan. I dislike dropping tanks a lot. I had a ford spirit it had access to the fuel pump. 4 screws if remember correctly. The cooler thing about that car is , it had a drain valve to drain out the gasoline. Factory. Someone was thinking. Thanks again Dan. I off to cut a whole in my 2000 ford taraus sel
Here is a total amateur's comment, which also addresses some of the below stated "why not" questions. I had a similar issue with a van, looked all over CZcams for answers and found other talents who did the same thing you saw here. Having a full tank made me think how safe dropping the tank would be, if you don't have a perfect setup. Cutting out a square sounded pretty good. But just for the hell of it I consulted the Chilton manual. There in every other paragraph was a fat print warning about the potential danger of fumes escaping and causing an explosion. I'm fairly convinced the Chilton folks are not rank amateurs, so much against my yearning for a quick way, I decided not to cut through the floor. Among the reasons were some of the very things this video apparently ignored. Never heard him mention to disconnect the battery (highly recommended by Chilton). Noticed he used a regular screwdriver to loosen the ring that holds the pump in place (Chilton recommends using a brass punch, as they don't spark when you pound on metal), or the general mention that gas fumes are incredibly explosive. Even the smallest amount escaping the tank - and some will, once you open to remove the pump - needs only any spark at all to ignite. Confined in an enclosed space, this can make for a most wonderful fireball. And that is probably why manufacturers avoid making such access points, some shade tree mechanic will sooner or later blow something up. Final tally: I let an automotive shop do the job and wrote the extra expense off as a contribution to my continued health. But hey, it's a free country, do as you please. Keep a fire extinguisher handy (another Chilton recommendation ; - )
Great comments. Thanks for taking the time to write that. I agree that brass would be safer and I did not consider that. However, I did not perceive any leaking fumes from the tank at the time and the only time you use the screw driver for that is while the tank is still closed. Also, it would take a pretty intense hit to spark a screw driver on a piece of sheet metal like that. There is a requisite amount of vapor for a flame to exist in atmosphere and it's much more concentrated than what you can smell. SO if you can't smell it, then there is very likely not a sufficient amount of vapor present unless something is wrong with your sense of smell. Also, not just any spark can ignite gasoline, it must be hot enough. All that said, I agree, additional safety measures can be taken.
back in the day, they didnt want to give the impression of not caring and having all that "unprotected" gas under your sacred rear end, but then the Japanese didnt care n started doing it so why not!
You missed some change. Lol. Good to know. My job has been doing this for like a yr but I just got fuel pump changed not to long ago and now here it is again. Thanks to you saving $$$$$$
Good Idea, I'm gonna do this on my 2000 Mercury Sable soon or at least once I figure out if my fuel pump is the culprit as to why it won't run. Thanks for showing us that this works!!
The only thing i have to say is i am 72 and widowed and you were awsome and i wish you were here to fix my car. It sound's like it's not getting fuel and i don't get enough money to put it in the shop to fix it.
This is so good, thanks. Here's a logical question, why don't the auto companies just make a door in the floor so the job can be done. Right, you just saved about $600 bucks, right. Good man!
Another option if you want to be more cautious would be to lower the tank, and then cut the access hole, and then replace the tank, and then replace the fuel pump. My concern was always "what if I drop the tank and replace the fuel pump, and then it fails again while I still own the car?" I replaced a fuel pump by removing the gas tank once, and I felt like I was working with a bomb...which basically I was. It's the fumes that will cause the explosion.
Good idea. I may have to do this on my 2002 Saturn with 208K, the time is coming to do this job as PM. I think I might want to caulk or JB Weld the homemade access door when the job is done, though.
Thanks for this. I've been looking for a used Taurus/Sable. Before you work on the fuel pump you should disconnect the neg battery cable. GM cars made after 1996 have an access panel for the pump in the trunk. Chrysler has them under the rear seat starting in the mid 2000's.
I've done many fuel pumps on Pontiac Fieros, the aftermarket pumps don't seem to last long. The tank is in the very middle of the car and this trick would not work at all because the fuel sending unit has hard lines that come out the top at a 90° angle and you'd have to cut a massive hole to get it out. However if you've followed the advice you have given and done some research you would never run into that problem on other cars that could have long hard lines like the Fiero. The money saved should be around $220 assuming you paid around $80 for the pump because this wasn't a vehicle that required you replace the whole sending unit with the pump. Cutting up a worthless Ford product wouldn't bother me but I think I'll stick to dropping the tank unless the manufacturer designed a service port.
2:55 "Use a nail clippers you find underneath the seat to pull it out." Hilarious! 🤣 Good idea. I don't want to drain the fuel then lay under the car to wrestle with the fuel tank. Sealing the gaps with polyurethane calking would be a good idea.
DON'T TRY THIS UNLESS YOU DRILL INTO THE CENTER FIRST TO SEE WHERE THE WALL OF GAS TANK COMES UP FROM THE FUEL PUMP SPACE! Something this guy did not mention, is that there is NOT a half inch gap above your whole fuel tank. I was trying this on an HHR and one of my gas lines is pretty much strapped to the ceiling of the thing that he is grinding on... So I grinned a big old hole in it and it's now spraying gas all over the inside of my car. It's a nice touch. I just went about an inch too far away from the fuel pump though. Imagine the area where your fuel pump is located is like an in ground pool that has a cover over it and the cover extends over the surrounding concrete of the pool. If you don't only cut into the area of your fuel pump is located (the empty pool area), then you hit your gas tank and or fuel lines (cement.)
Do not ...repeat ..do not use a grinder! Common sense says if there is a small leak or if the lines are rusty and something were to hit these rusty,crusty lines...as often is the case. Remember...funeral directors need money too. I'm all for cutting, but use a sabre saw or drill some hole and use a hacksaw or such other non-sparking device. Chiseling hammer?
Genius! Before I found this video I was thinking to do the exact same thing on my E150 conversion van. Cut a hole in the floor! I removed the seats long ago and there's nothing but floor back there. All I need to do is pull back the carpet and locate the pump. Your process is looking good and if I can I will measure, etc. too but I also have a HF borescope and so I might just drill a hole in the floor and have a look around to locate the pump. Then when confident, cut.....
+Daniel Engling I have a 1990 Buick LeSabre Limited.. 3800, 4 door Sedan.. Where is the common place a fuel filter is, and how do I remove the fuel pump without dropping the tank? Where are the fuel pump-fuel sending unit, on a 1990 Buick LeSabre Limited 3800, 4 door Sedan?
lawnmowermanTX Like the man said, you need to search for A Google Image of that fuel tank and carefully measure from a common point that you can see both inside the car and underneath
Thanks for the feedback.. It turns out... The crankshaft sensor fried-shorted out, and destroyed the ignition module.. The 1990 Buick LeSabre is back on the road! I just need a few thousand bucks on an entire air conditioning system, and driver side door hinge alignment, weather strip, 4 new good power window servos, uh... new speakers, and driver side seat.... I also have a 1994 Buick Century Special, that needs a new engine, transmission, 4 new power windows servo motors, tires, flush the tank, paint job, lot of work, and NO real money.... I dont think, this particular video, could help me on a 1990 Buick LeSabre, 3800.... 3.8 liter V6, Uni-body construction? Thanks again Walt Anderson... The Fuel Pump is on the fuel tank, and it has to be dropped.... I had no idea the complexity issues of where General Motors put fuel-pumps, and fuel relays, and fuel filters... :P Thanks!
Tried this and the gas lines were wedged into the floorboard so as soon as my wheel cut through it nicked a line and sprayed gas. Scariest crap that's ever happened to me. JUST DROP THE YANK
You have to plan and measure. That's why I said you need to look up photos of what you're dealing with. And don't gut all the way through, hammer the last bit out
I am going to do this in 2023 to my 2008 Chevy Cobalt ls 4-door 2.2l . I know, it is an old car, right? But so is Bobcat who is a 1970 Dodge Challenger 332 Hemi 4 speed. You're Only as Old as You Feel.
I thought this was going to be way more ghetto than it actually ended up being. I'm glad you went through the level of planning that you did, I'm sure that was the longest part! Lol
I had a 95 Ford Escort ZX2 that either came with an access plate or the previous owner had this done. It seems that model of car had a tendency for fuel pump failure as I had to replace fuel pumps twice more in the six years I drove it.
Great job! Can you advise how far in from the outside edge of the passenger door to cut the right side of the hole, and how big to cut the hole, on a 2001 sable. Thanks.
@@TheCousinDan Thanks for the reply. I found a CZcams video for a 99 Taurus that said to start the hole 20.5 " from the passenger side door frame, and extend the length of the hole 10' toward the driver side, with the height of the hole being 9", and those instructions worked great. I had to make 2 "crease cuts" at 2 corners to accommodate flexing the electrical lines to get the pump out. I used a pair of straight-cut tin snips rather than a grinder, and they cut pretty easily. Found a pump motor on eBay for $16 rather than pay over $100 at retail parts shop.😊
I thought the video cut out because there was a CZcams commercial, thanks for the information now I know I don’t have to drop my field tank or just go through the floor
He just used an angle grinder to cut the metal above it and narrowly avoid slicing into the lines and blowing the entire thing sky high. He's not the type of person to care about the difference between ferrous and nonferrous tools and whether they make sparks.
The only thing I would have done differently would vacuum the squirrel remnants and used an air nibbler so as not to have sparks. I fear some knucklehead will cut the tank and at best, have to replace the tank. Worst Die. People have been doing this a long time. If its a car your going to keep, weld a metal strip around the whole metal piece you removed and put a seal around it before reinstall. You may get fumes in the cabin if you don't at least calk it when finished.
⚠️Don't do this. The manufacturer doesn't put a hatch there to protect the passengers from getting fuel sprayed on them during a rear end wreck. Also could cause a fire and give them 3rd degree burns. ⚠️
good evening -2006 cts 3.6L bad gas smell,possible vapor canister full of gas-would like to check fuel,and top of tank-will not use die cutter-afraid of fire or explosions do you have ideal,or i have to lower rear cradle(a lot of time-thanks Fred
I don't know of a way to cut through that without generating lots of heat. Is there not a removable panel under the seat in that car? But I agree that grinding would be a very bad idea in this case.
I just did this today on my Taurus. Very, very helpful. Dropping a fuel tank with nowhere to put the fuel and no lift is really challenging. Watching where to cut and how to do the job was a huge help. This made a four hour job take a half hour, with no broken clips or maimed wires. Thank you so much for posting this! Good work 👍
Did this on a one ton 1998 Dodge van out in the middle of nowhere. Bought an inverter to run off the battery and supply AC power for the tools. It was not practical to try to empty a full 38 gallon gas tank or try to drop it. Worked great in two hours we had it fixed and outta there. The van had plywood installed on the floors so no problem covering the hole. You do have to be aware of exhaust fumes under your car getting into the interior of the car and carbon monoxide poisoning everyone!! Make sure the hole is sealed again.
Nice! Thanks for sharing, I'm glad it got you out of a pinch!
Adding some rtv sealant around the cut would be wise to keep unwanted moisture out
People did this on IROC-Z Camaros back in the late 80's. Dropping the tank on those was an absolute nightmare with the cross-link "state of the art" 😂 suspension in the way. So this is not a new idea.
But this gent deserves accolades, he's very slick. Made it look easy and that's the mark of a true professional! 🥳
Thanks for the video, my fuel pump went out this pass Monday.took your idea and changed fuel pump motor my self. I cut access hole thru floor under back seat and changed pimp. Did not have to drop tank. THANKS for idea.
+firbyd, well cars are unsafe at any speed so no matter how it's fixed when it starts rolling again it's going to be a hazard.
Flash point
Why would a man need a pimp anyway?
Using a gronder is a good idea for safety reasons. I would have taken a portable vacuum cleaner to remove the debris nefore temoving the fuel pump.
The hard part for me is to determine the exact spot to cut out the opening. It would be nice to have a template for making the cut for me Chevy Tohoe.
Dude I used my Windstar's jack and got 2 stands, left the filler tube side connected and and dropped the other side. I still was able to get to the pump and change it without having to remove the heavy back seat and lift the carpet up & CUT the floor of a car. I'm happy I did it the correct way without modification to the chassis. Now the car still looks nice and stock without being jerry-rigged an exhaust fumes seeping up into the cabin😅
I have done this myself and it worked like a charm. It was during a flight and just feathered the prop until i had installed the new motor. No gliding home for me that day!
I have two Impalas - one 2004 and one 2010. The 2004 has the access panel and the 2010 doesn't. I asked the some mechanics and a dealer why they got rid of the access panel in the newer models and they stated its because changing the fuel pump without cleaning the tank leads to the new pump dying a quicker death... Chev and aftermarket pump manufacturers were getting tired of warrantying fuel pumps because people were dropping new pumps into dirty tanks. Some guys also told me it was because gas fumes were getting into passenger cabs... safety issue... but I dunno about that one. I also believe they took the easy access doors away so they force people to bring their car to the dealer / mechanic to have to pay mechanics to drop the tanks and replace the pump. So both reasons I believe are true. I JUST dropped the tank in my 2010 Impala and replaced the pump (yes I cleaned the tank) and it wasn't that bad a job. 2 hours true but not that bad. Yes - alot more work than just opening an access panel. I contemplated cutting an access door in (while the tank was dropped) for future repairs but decided against it because a support column was right there. Wouldn't see that if you cut from above. As for using a grinder... too many sparks flying around gas lines for my liking. And opening the lid with a steel screw driver - I'd use a non ferrous punch (brass?) to prevent sparks. AND - sorry to be so critical - but you gotta clean the top of the tank before opening that lid! It takes just a bit of dirt to screw up these in-tank pumps and mess up the fuel pressure regulator valve. The bugger manufacturers are putting the fuel pressure regulators on the pumps INSIDE the tanks now, and not on the fuel rails. Doesn't take much dirt to clog up these regulator valves (they are made so cheap now) and then you have this hard starting because dirt is letting fuel drain back into the tank. My 10 cents worth here. :)
did you find debris in the tank?
@@ufartface I can't remember - I don't think so . I tend to use the high octane gas and only go to good national retailers. We had a problem up here with some individual immigrant run stations getting gas from questionable sources... it was found that some were getting gas with industrial chemicals mixed in and it was screwing up peoples cars. If I remember correctly, from what I saw in the tank, there was very little to no rust / dirt. But the car died a year ago due to a major head gasket leak at highway speed causing a hydro-lock and then implosion. It had 323000 km on it so it went to the wrecking yard...
The problem with this video is this: At some point out of the thousands people who replicate, a few will lack common sense, and after popping the top ring open (pick one of below):
-inadvertently trigger their grinder causing a spark at the grinder motor brushes
-cause a spark while unplugging electrical cable because they left key on and not disconnected battery
-tip over a filament or halogen work light which will break above the opening
All of these (and more) can end that person's life...because the vapor (not the gasoline itself) that escapes up when you open the top of the tank, is highly explosive
he said just be careful- there are risks in any job
The sacrifice is not having to pay potential 700 dollars to a mechanic for a fuel pump replacement .....good video !! You'll help a lot of people with this information
$700?- Try $1,800 at chevy dealer in Denver, May 2024
2000-2005 Buick Lesabres and Pontiac Bonnevilles have an access cover in the trunk, you just remove the cover and the pump is right there. I bought my 2001 LeSabre with an inoperative fuel gauge and was ecstatic when i found out I didn't have to drop the tank to fix it, I replaced the whole fuel pump assembly while I was at it, my hat is off to GM for whomever engineered that, it was a stroke of genius.
or they copied someone else
I love my Evo Elucidate ye.
They've even be more genius if they mounted the fuel pump outside the fuel tank or mechanically on the engine like they did in the old days.
Peter be
Revived Life Yes it was, there is a special tool for removing it I think but mine was rusted and even though I sprayed it with wd40 and let it soak it was still a pain, and don't use a torch to loosen it, I didn't have a brass punch as is recommended to prevent sparks so I just used a steel one, I was afraid to use my air hammer with a chisel also, I ended up destroying the lock ring, so it is a good idea to have a new one on hand just in case, you can always return it, other than that, another vehicle that has an inside access under the back seat is the 1999 and up to I think 2002 kia sportage, my neighbor has a 1999 and I replaced the fuel pump on it for him, that one is screwed down which was nice, very easy to remove.
Dam! That was Fucking Beautiful! I'm going to do that to my 2002 Saturn and it gave me a great idea! I'm going to cut a hole under the front seat, make a hinge for the seat and Blamo! No more stopping for bathroom breaks for my wife! If something hits your windshield and it looks like a turd, sorry folks.
Heres the thing, in the event that you are in a accident and the tank catches fire the fire will waste no time getting into the cabin of the car. if your not going to make a proper door for the gapping hole you just cut I would recommend doing this for safety purposes.
I thought you were going to put everything back together,.. before you checked to see if the problem was solved. So many do this, including myself in my younger days. Just because something is NEW doesn't guarantee it works!!! Been there too many times. Good video. PEACE
NEW Never Ever Worked
Asking for will the same ideal work on a Chevy Silverado pickup truck? CZcams
@@alexalfaro1301 Keep looking on CZcams Alex. They're putting new videos out everyday. MAIN THING BRO, BE SAFE. Remember, an EMPTY gas tank will blow faster than a FULL tank, all to do with vapor. Just be careful. If you're going to grind on the bitch, stick some cardboard, a fuckin beer box, ANYTHING, just something between the tank and where you're going to cut. Hope you make some progress. BE SAFE DAMMIT.
I did this many times on old camaro's. Your video was perfect because I needed the location of where to cut. Thank you sir! Screw all the negative comments. Those mostly come from a bunch of sissies that have never worked on anything. I found your video very useful.
Thank you!
+firbyd, is you time freezing machine for rent? I'd like to save all the time your strategy would take. Horse and buggy is the way to go anyway. No toxic exhaust gasses or high speed fatality collisions then.
+firbyd, so when criminals work hard and cops have to work hard too just because those criminals can't find beneficial work due to laws like min wage or restrictive prohibitions on farming private fallow fields (T. Jefferson had words about that) then we should appreciate their hard work? No. Hard work is not appreciated. We pay (show appreciation to) people like Asians for making our electronics bc they are quick and sufficiently good at it. Unemployed high school football players have a hard time soldering wires to chip boards. They must deserve more pay for all their hard work since it's difficult for them to find the patience needed.
+firbyd, cheers. I don't mean to sound irritable.
Do you accept (pay in the form of giving your enemies a) "bash or shekel" for the time machine device?
I’ve been doing my own auto repair for 20 years and would usually never do this. But it’s like 2 degrees in Chicago and I’m selling the car. So hell with it, I’m doing this tomorrow 😉
how did it go , are still alive , im thinking on do this to my sons rust bucket 99 chevy venture
Note to self don't buy a used car from this guy
CAUTION - GO SLOW! The fuel tank is 1/16th of an inch away from the floor steel on the rear cut on a '99 Ford Taurus & evap. hoses touch the floor
That's a good video! FYI, my wife's 02 VW Jetta has a fuel pump access door from the factory. That's under the back seat. And my 2019 VW Jetta has the same.
Geeee that's great, I'm so happy for you
I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota pick-up that I intend to keep. I will certainly consider this in the future as me and my teenager are learning all General repairs and eventually, the truck will go to him. Our fuel pump lasted six years. I will follow up with a tune-up. We replaced six pulleys, the battery, thermostat, top radiator hose and proportioner valve on our brake lines.
Good to know that creating this access panel is possible, although ours may not be done from home. Price gouging in Southern California , extremely slow turn around times are what have driven us to attempt to do most of the work ourselves. I wish I was as comfortable as you are working with fittings, clips, and miscellaneous parts. ♡
Thank you.
Audra Hughes Great! So should I not buy a Dakota pickup then?
Daniel Engling I love my Dodge Dakota. HAVE had since 2009, so that may seem like a, lot of work, but it's the maintenance for an eighteen year old pickup. Get the 4wd model maybe. I love that it has antitheft, a cab, will haul, and manual windows, since all electric can be a pain. Most parts can be purchased from Car Quest with the exception of a few that are dealer specific Mopar parts.
Audra Hughes very nice. Yeah I suppose that's not bad for the age
Daniel Engling Before we change Fuel Pump Assembly/module (WHATEVER it's called? I think I had no idea it's a cylinder like a fire extinguisher) we're changing spark plugs out to rule out, if it NEEDS a fuel pump, but I imagine it does. All I know is it's shivering, with a light, rough idle @ stop lights. Since beginning to "tinker" have since realized mechanics pull $120 an hour + $195 diagnostic. I'm not ashamed try to diy what we are capable of doing ourselves.
I used a Drill to make a hole , then i used sheet metal scissors to cut a square no sparks safer.
the sparks from an angle grinder are not hot enough to ignite gas.
@@AdamA-wg1ko I hope you are joking. Grinder sparks are hot enough to put pits in glass
i hadn't thought of this. i am about to replace a fuel pump in my 2013 chevy sonic that conveniently doesn't have the access door the aveo did. I will try this shears method. thanks
Grinder sparks are pieces of molten metal. Avoid using a grinder around the fuel tank. And if you gave no other ootion dont go all the way through. Once you have patiently worked it until its very thin use a punch to finish the job. Stay safe and live to see another day!!!
Crazy dude! Lol I made my access hole by first hammering a nail through the metal just about half a cm in or less enough to put a flashlight and see in the hole so I knew exactly where to avoid, like lines/hose and wiring but also the tank so I drew a rough circle and used cable cutters basically wire cutters and eventually after cut by cut, I got the hole made, the edges are rough but I'm ok with that because I only need enough clearance to pull the pump assembly which I accomplished and life has been all the worth while easier ever since, I couldnt trust a grinder though because I personally only pull the fpr off the rail to relieve pressure and I dont run with no pump relay to drain lines and I knew there was fuel in the lines so for me my only method I went with was the hand tools no power tools because even 1 spark and I'd be sol! which I was aware of so I went the safe route but also a good idea I do when i replace fuel pumps, keep your windows or door open and run an extension cord to your ride and plug in a small fan to vent the vapors as you work, this way you avoid vapor build up and decrease the risk altogether
I have to change my pump out today and wasn't looking forward to it. Thank you, you brightened my day up. Would never have thought of it lol
I've been working on cars for over 30 yrs. good job Dan, don't let haters say otherwise good job. And your a funny dude.
Thanks so much for the video. Got a 1996 Honda Accord (over 300,000 miles) that is hard to start after sitting over night. I have tried many things hoping to avoid pulling the tank. I am pretty sure my fuel pump is back leaking back into the tank when it sits a while. Going to give this a shot. 👍
This is why my dream car is a 1963 Chevy Nova 6 cyl 3 speed manual trans - fuel pump accessible, it's on the engine block.....no expensive, iffy electronic ECM's, sensors, injectors to suddenly crap out while driving across a bridge or in the middle of a desert.....only electronic part is the radio. Simple easy to repair / maintain - early Chevy Nova's were the best sensible to own car GM ever made......I want one
We did this can opwner technique on my 95 jeep grand cherokee. We first went to the pick-and-pull and experimented on a scrapped out jeep. Worked great! Now if there is a problem it may take 20 minutes to change out
some cars actually have access holes here. I changed an old sunfire that had that. It was brilliant.
I honestly thought the video cut out because the car exploded when you started it.
LMFAO!!!!!
pavy415 😂 same! 🙈
👍😂🇬🇧💯
💥💀💥
😂😂😂😂
This is an excellent way to avoid dealing with a full tank of gasoline, but it can be made much safer. Since the ideal explosive mixture of gasoline vapor and air is near 14.7 to 1 ( a range on either side of this ratio), why not be safe and set a fan to blow under the floor between the floor and top of the tank. This will prevent any explosive mixture from forming while you are removing the floor panel. It will then be just as safe to remove the pump from the tank as it would be with the tank out of the vehicle. It is dangerous to do the task either way because of static electricity discharge igniting the vapors, so use the fan blowing over the work area while you work on taking the pump unit out and putting it back into the tank. You can also cut the hole with a jigsaw with a short metal-cutting blade if clearance allows, or maybe drill starter holes and cut it out with tin snips if the metal is not too thick to cut. Any task involving fuel can kill you if you don't use common sense about safety, so be very careful around fuel and tanks.
EXCELLENT suggestions! All these things are good ideas, thanks for sharing. Just be extra sure on the clearance with a jig saw if you go that route. A puncture would be bad.
14.7 to 1 is ideal air-fuel ratio for an internal combustion engine
did this to my daughters 07 Mazda 3 only thing is I cut 3 sides, folded the metal over, did the job, shot rustoleum on the exposed metal, folded it back then siliconed the open area to make it moisture tight. works like a charm
I hate how they put the access gate just big enough to unplug the harness, those quick connect lines suck so you can probably guess what I did with mine to swap a pump
I did this on my 03 Taurus last month, used the video for reference on the hole location . The job came out fine car runs well , a couple of notes, don't cut all the way through on the cut in the back not much clearance there just skive a line and and and the hatch you cut will open like a door also you will have to reuse the locking ring as you will not be able to slide it over the electrical harness . If you are concerned about your cutting skills you can remove the bolts on the rear of the straps and there is enough flex in the hoses that the tank will drop about 3 inches giving extra room . You can leave the battery hooked up as when the key is off there is no current to the pump you can however easily remove the pump relay [ it's under the hood] for extra safety. All this being said I have to agree with some posters that this is not a job for a rookie and a 4 inch angle grinder requires a fair amount of skill to use safely , and if you don't have a fire extinguisher handy don't do it consider what you are getting into before you start if your not so sure drop the tank.
Great points. Thanks.
You didn't mention that the gas hoses would be quite easily cut as you are cutting the hole in the floor. That allows you to use your fire extinguisher, if the tank is nearly full, or, make the front page of the local paper if the tank is nearly empty.
it's a great idea and I have done it on many vehicles...Safely by using a hammer and chisel and not a grinder. Old rusty gas lines on top will leak. Boom 😮. Grinding near gasoline and sucking up gas fumes into your vacuum explodes from the sparks in the electric motor.😮
I did this on a 1993 Mercury sable, using just a large pair of diagonal cutting pliers. The metal on that car was thin enough that I could just tear and peel at it. Definitely wasn't pretty, but it worked.
It's outrageous they stopped putting in access panels for fuel pumps.
Can catch interior on fire from sparks. I use a drill and then metal shears with heavy leather gloves. Also - good to suck the junk from the bottom of the tank - using a hand pump with some long tubes that run a few feet away into a bucket. The wasted 2-3 gallons of gas are a great investment to prevent junk from blocking the fuel intake on the bottom of the pump. My theory is that junk is what actually burns out many pumps - they starve for fuel, overheat the pump seal and destroy it's suction/pumping. Also, I get full power from having raw fuel 100% going into the system. Extreme care needed to be used to not start a fire or inhale gas - lots of fresh air and all windows down... if you are really thrifty you can install a big filter in-line into your hand pump and re-use that fuel...
Before you open the tank up, scrape, brush, or vacuum the crap off the access to your busted fuel pump. Then open the tank access to the fuel pump! Not all filters to the pump keeps the dirt out of your brand new pump. Sometimes not replacing the filter causes the filter to disintegrate due to age, fouling and burning the pump out. Some new pumps do come with attached filters, but a lot do not. Why take a chance?
I always wondered why more home mechanics don't do something like this. I mean, who the Hell is going to see that patch after the job is done? Quite smart.
I would vacuum up the squirrel stuff along with the dirt first BEFORE loosening the ring to prevent junk from falling into the tank to cause even more issues along the way.
You’re in a crash, your legs are stuck. Fuel is gushing out, and you cut a ‘hatch.’ Broken legs aren’t nearly as bad as skin grafting & inhalation, if you live through it. Not to mention the deep existential crisis from the regret.
Drop the tank. If it’s dirty, use FC01, or replace the tank. A new tank for my car costs $80. That’s $25 cheaper than the pump unit. Do the job. It’s hard work but the challenge is good for you, plus you get to inspect & clean/replace things - like evicting a spider & egg sack blocking the canister purge valve (true story). Chris Fix does it. You can do it.
The camera died as if the car blew up....when you starter the engine...
don't forget the sealant. after you cut the hole and replace the pump, what you should have done is the sheet metal but also some rtv to keep it watertight.
boy am I glad I have a vehicle where they thought with their heads and made a factory access door. the wife's GM on the other hand is one of the drop tank types. I think they do it to try to make money.
nice vid appreciate you sharing.
mine is a venture van and I am going to use your method and that way I don't have drop the tank.If you here of a guy blowing up his van in Westminster,md…..that will be me.Thanks for the tip
i used a die grinder. but be careful to cut in exact spot. his method is fine if you are only replacing the pump itself. there is another part of the wiring harness you cannot access without dropping the tank. I cut the wires for that and spliced the new wiring in to avoid dropping the tank
I was thinking the newer Taurus has a hole already why not make one for the older cars like you said no one can see it and it makes a hell of a lot easier I was going to buy a $200 floor jack and a $100 crossbar attachment after seeing this I'll just get a grinder save a lot of money and hard work and end up with a tool I can use elsewhere. Thanks great idea.
I love it! Thanks for watching!
I seemed to have missed the questions about cutting janky tweeker holes in a car on the ASE test...
Air Nibblers work well. They make a set that adapts to Dewalt cordless
My husband just did this in his 04 suburban, this video was a life saver.
I love it, the previous video says don’t cut it open, next video tells me to cut it lol. Just remember if it was easy everyone would be a mechanic. I highly advise not to be cutting above your tank. And also verify your electrical is good prior to jumping to replace a part where it could just be a relay or cam sensor preventing you from firing.
Thanks Dan. I dislike dropping tanks a lot.
I had a ford spirit it had access to the fuel pump. 4 screws if remember correctly.
The cooler thing about that car is , it had a drain valve to drain out the gasoline. Factory. Someone was thinking.
Thanks again Dan. I off to cut a whole in my 2000 ford taraus sel
They don't often think about the little guy, the end user/mechanic/owner.
How about being nice to the car!! and put some rubber sealer around the plate so water wont come in when driving in the rain ??
james hopper gas tank blocks it from the bottom
nice to your rear seat passengers
Heard the one of the kids walking on the train tracks for a short cut . Sometimes the perceived short cut is the longer way around.
Thank you sir! I was thinking about doing the same thing, but i wasn't brave enough to do it, thanks to your video my Saturn will be cut!
how did it go ?
vacuum it out before you open the tank
Good call
i could picture the acorn snd dirt falling in! lol
better not use any electric vaccum...
He didn't mention it, but he had to use a vacuum to remove all the foreign material off the top of the cover before opening the tank.
Why not use an electric Vacuum Philip? (not sure what other kind there are) The tank is still sealed at that point so no issues.
Here is a total amateur's comment, which also addresses some of the below stated "why not" questions.
I had a similar issue with a van, looked all over CZcams for answers and found other talents who did the same thing you saw here. Having a full tank made me think how safe dropping the tank would be, if you don't have a perfect setup.
Cutting out a square sounded pretty good. But just for the hell of it I consulted the Chilton manual. There in every other paragraph was a fat print warning about the potential danger of fumes escaping and causing an explosion. I'm fairly convinced the Chilton folks are not rank amateurs, so much against my yearning for a quick way, I decided not to cut through the floor.
Among the reasons were some of the very things this video apparently ignored. Never heard him mention to disconnect the battery (highly recommended by Chilton). Noticed he used a regular screwdriver to loosen the ring that holds the pump in place (Chilton recommends using a brass punch, as they don't spark when you pound on metal), or the general mention that gas fumes are incredibly explosive. Even the smallest amount escaping the tank - and some will, once you open to remove the pump - needs only any spark at all to ignite. Confined in an enclosed space, this can make for a most wonderful fireball. And that is probably why manufacturers avoid making such access points, some shade tree mechanic will sooner or later blow something up.
Final tally: I let an automotive shop do the job and wrote the extra expense off as a contribution to my continued health. But hey, it's a free country, do as you please. Keep a fire extinguisher handy (another Chilton recommendation ; - )
Great comments. Thanks for taking the time to write that. I agree that brass would be safer and I did not consider that. However, I did not perceive any leaking fumes from the tank at the time and the only time you use the screw driver for that is while the tank is still closed. Also, it would take a pretty intense hit to spark a screw driver on a piece of sheet metal like that. There is a requisite amount of vapor for a flame to exist in atmosphere and it's much more concentrated than what you can smell. SO if you can't smell it, then there is very likely not a sufficient amount of vapor present unless something is wrong with your sense of smell. Also, not just any spark can ignite gasoline, it must be hot enough.
All that said, I agree, additional safety measures can be taken.
Yea N I read a book n it said do not wear a bow tie to and interview, I did anyways n got the job.
Why didnt these dim wits just put an access door on these vehicles?
Agree, Mitsubishi does...
Because they want to make more money off you because instead of you dealing with it you'll take it to one of there mechanic shops
cause they are dim wits
one word....Profit
back in the day, they didnt want to give the impression of not caring and having all that "unprotected" gas under your sacred rear end, but then the Japanese didnt care n started doing it so why not!
I have an 01 taurus , I will definitely cut through the floor if and when I need to replace the fuel pump.
You missed some change. Lol. Good to know. My job has been doing this for like a yr but I just got fuel pump changed not to long ago and now here it is again. Thanks to you saving $$$$$$
Good Idea, I'm gonna do this on my 2000 Mercury Sable soon or at least once I figure out if my fuel pump is the culprit as to why it won't run. Thanks for showing us that this works!!
Would this technique also work on a 04 Taurus? I don't feel like taking the gas tank off.
The nail clipper part - HAHA!!! Love it. Great DIY, thk you!!
The only thing i have to say is i am 72 and widowed and you were awsome and i wish you were here to fix my car. It sound's like it's not getting fuel and i don't get enough money to put it in the shop to fix it.
the fuel tank is not easy to remove. all the bolts are rusted and will probably break off instead of turning out. This is a brilliant idea.
This is so good, thanks. Here's a logical question, why don't the auto companies just make a door in the floor so the job can be done. Right, you just saved about $600 bucks, right. Good man!
some do but most just want to save a nickel
Would you be able to take a photo (from above in good light) where you made the cut? I'm pretty certain ours is the same.
Another option if you want to be more cautious would be to lower the tank, and then cut the access hole, and then replace the tank, and then replace the fuel pump. My concern was always "what if I drop the tank and replace the fuel pump, and then it fails again while I still own the car?" I replaced a fuel pump by removing the gas tank once, and I felt like I was working with a bomb...which basically I was. It's the fumes that will cause the explosion.
Awesome! After wrestling fuel tank out of my car I saw this video just before I wrestled it back in. Ah well
how do I get the measurements to cut the floorboard out on a 05 Sebring limited convertible to change the fuel pump
It's not often I comment on videos but I cannot help on this one.... Brilliant!
Rick Randazzo Thank you, sir.
Good idea. I may have to do this on my 2002 Saturn with 208K, the time is coming to do this job as PM. I think I might want to caulk or JB Weld the homemade access door when the job is done, though.
Thanks for this. I've been looking for a used Taurus/Sable. Before you work on the fuel pump you should disconnect the neg battery cable. GM cars made after 1996 have an access panel for the pump in the trunk. Chrysler has them under the rear seat starting in the mid 2000's.
@Jose Diaz Its usually under the spare tire.
03 Alero 3.4, 04 Alero 2.2 . Do not. Those are both gm .
I've done many fuel pumps on Pontiac Fieros, the aftermarket pumps don't seem to last long. The tank is in the very middle of the car and this trick would not work at all because the fuel sending unit has hard lines that come out the top at a 90° angle and you'd have to cut a massive hole to get it out. However if you've followed the advice you have given and done some research you would never run into that problem on other cars that could have long hard lines like the Fiero.
The money saved should be around $220 assuming you paid around $80 for the pump because this wasn't a vehicle that required you replace the whole sending unit with the pump.
Cutting up a worthless Ford product wouldn't bother me but I think I'll stick to dropping the tank unless the manufacturer designed a service port.
+Josh Bishop Ok, Fieros are out. Good to know.
josh bishop k
its not worthless if it gets you to work and back inexpensively
Use roofing tape over the seam all the way around to seal out dirt and air leaks. Works great and a cheap insurance step
2:55 "Use a nail clippers you find underneath the seat to pull it out."
Hilarious! 🤣
Good idea. I don't want to drain the fuel then lay under the car to wrestle with the fuel tank.
Sealing the gaps with polyurethane calking would be a good idea.
DON'T TRY THIS UNLESS YOU DRILL INTO THE CENTER FIRST TO SEE WHERE THE WALL OF GAS TANK COMES UP FROM THE FUEL PUMP SPACE! Something this guy did not mention, is that there is NOT a half inch gap above your whole fuel tank. I was trying this on an HHR and one of my gas lines is pretty much strapped to the ceiling of the thing that he is grinding on... So I grinned a big old hole in it and it's now spraying gas all over the inside of my car. It's a nice touch. I just went about an inch too far away from the fuel pump though. Imagine the area where your fuel pump is located is like an in ground pool that has a cover over it and the cover extends over the surrounding concrete of the pool. If you don't only cut into the area of your fuel pump is located (the empty pool area), then you hit your gas tank and or fuel lines (cement.)
Is there a chance that sparks from the grinder can start a fire in the cab of the car?
Do not ...repeat ..do not use a grinder! Common sense says if there is a small leak or if the lines are rusty and something were to hit these rusty,crusty lines...as often is the case. Remember...funeral directors need money too.
I'm all for cutting, but use a sabre saw or drill some hole and use a hacksaw or such other non-sparking device. Chiseling hammer?
Genius! Before I found this video I was thinking to do the exact same thing on my E150 conversion van. Cut a hole in the floor!
I removed the seats long ago and there's nothing but floor back there. All I need to do is pull back the carpet and locate the pump.
Your process is looking good and if I can I will measure, etc. too but I also have a HF borescope and so I might just drill a hole in the floor and have a look around to locate the pump.
Then when confident, cut.....
if the pump has not totally failed, have someone turn the key to on position and and listen for the position of the hum of the pump priming
+Daniel Engling I have a 1990 Buick LeSabre Limited.. 3800, 4 door Sedan.. Where is the common place a fuel filter is, and how do I remove the fuel pump without dropping the tank? Where are the fuel pump-fuel sending unit, on a 1990 Buick LeSabre Limited 3800, 4 door Sedan?
lawnmowermanTX Like the man said, you need to search for A Google Image of that fuel tank and carefully measure from a common point that you can see both inside the car and underneath
Thanks for the feedback.. It turns out... The crankshaft sensor fried-shorted out, and destroyed the ignition module.. The 1990 Buick LeSabre is back on the road! I just need a few thousand bucks on an entire air conditioning system, and driver side door hinge alignment, weather strip, 4 new good power window servos, uh... new speakers, and driver side seat.... I also have a 1994 Buick Century Special, that needs a new engine, transmission, 4 new power windows servo motors, tires, flush the tank, paint job, lot of work, and NO real money.... I dont think, this particular video, could help me on a 1990 Buick LeSabre, 3800.... 3.8 liter V6, Uni-body construction? Thanks again Walt Anderson... The Fuel Pump is on the fuel tank, and it has to be dropped.... I had no idea the complexity issues of where General Motors put fuel-pumps, and fuel relays, and fuel filters... :P Thanks!
Tried this and the gas lines were wedged into the floorboard so as soon as my wheel cut through it nicked a line and sprayed gas. Scariest crap that's ever happened to me. JUST DROP THE YANK
You have to plan and measure. That's why I said you need to look up photos of what you're dealing with. And don't gut all the way through, hammer the last bit out
I am going to do this in 2023 to my 2008 Chevy Cobalt ls 4-door 2.2l . I know, it is an old car, right? But so is Bobcat who is a 1970 Dodge Challenger 332 Hemi 4 speed. You're Only as Old as You Feel.
I thought this was going to be way more ghetto than it actually ended up being. I'm glad you went through the level of planning that you did, I'm sure that was the longest part! Lol
I had a 95 Ford Escort ZX2 that either came with an access plate or the previous owner had this done. It seems that model of car had a tendency for fuel pump failure as I had to replace fuel pumps twice more in the six years I drove it.
Excellent vid...not sure about the reliability torch factor working at night...but in daylight, great job .Thanks mate
Great job! Can you advise how far in from the outside edge of the passenger door to cut the right side of the hole, and how big to cut the hole, on a 2001 sable. Thanks.
I don't remember. I suggest just going on Google images and doing the math. Or going to the junk yard and seeing it first hand.
@@TheCousinDan Thanks for the reply. I found a CZcams video for a 99 Taurus that said to start the hole 20.5 " from the passenger side door frame, and extend the length of the hole 10' toward the driver side, with the height of the hole being 9", and those instructions worked great. I had to make 2 "crease cuts" at 2 corners to accommodate flexing the electrical lines to get the pump out. I used a pair of straight-cut tin snips rather than a grinder, and they cut pretty easily. Found a pump motor on eBay for $16 rather than pay over $100 at retail parts shop.😊
@@joepiecora426 VERY NICE! Great work on the savings.
I have to put a fuel pump in my 05 expidition and thought of doing it this way but don't know where to start
If you think its fire proofing, put a propane torch to it. It's not Nomex. It may be slow burning but it's purpose is sound deadening.
X-Man Nothing is fireproof in the end.
I thought the video cut out because there was a CZcams commercial, thanks for the information now I know I don’t have to drop my field tank or just go through the floor
I always use a brass screwdriver when releasing that lock ring I've done this before but used an air nibbler and chisel
He just used an angle grinder to cut the metal above it and narrowly avoid slicing into the lines and blowing the entire thing sky high. He's not the type of person to care about the difference between ferrous and nonferrous tools and whether they make sparks.
@@MattJonesYT very true my apologies
Would it be fine to cut adore shortcut while gas is still in the gas tank of a 99 Plymouth Breeze
Dan, nice job on the video. Planned, edited, and very succinct. Gonna go out and cut a hole in my Taurus Wagon tomorrow.
Awesome! Thanks!
The only thing I would have done differently would vacuum the squirrel remnants and used an air nibbler so as not to have sparks. I fear some knucklehead will cut the tank and at best, have to replace the tank. Worst Die. People have been doing this a long time. If its a car your going to keep, weld a metal strip around the whole metal piece you removed and put a seal around it before reinstall. You may get fumes in the cabin if you don't at least calk it when finished.
Thanks for the help man! Mazda mad a door for me to unplug the pump... but not pull it, time for the grinder then lol
Note: Sparks from hammering a screwdriver and gasoline do not mix.
⚠️Don't do this. The manufacturer doesn't put a hatch there to protect the passengers from getting fuel sprayed on them during a rear end wreck. Also could cause a fire and give them 3rd degree burns. ⚠️
Awesome I found this video! My car is also a 2001 mercury sable. This will make my life much easier. Thanks for posting!!!!!
Happy to help!
@@TheCousinDan I did the pump two days ago and it was beautiful. It was so easy. I’ll never drop a tank again!! Lol
@@demonbike666 Great! Just don't do it on a super nice car... Some things are worth the effort!
good evening -2006 cts 3.6L bad gas smell,possible vapor canister full of gas-would like to check fuel,and top of tank-will not use die cutter-afraid of fire or explosions do you have ideal,or i have to lower rear cradle(a lot of time-thanks Fred
I don't know of a way to cut through that without generating lots of heat. Is there not a removable panel under the seat in that car? But I agree that grinding would be a very bad idea in this case.
as crazy as it all looks i have to say your idea just blew my mind away!!! hahahaha way to go dude im gonna be doing the same thing with my car
Smart man we all know why they don’t make a hatch cover $$$$$$$$$$$$ for the dealerships so sad that they do this to us 😢great job thanks
Also a good pair of tin snips work …sparks with gas can be bad
nice. had that question on my 1998 malibu. thanks C -Dan
Happy to help!