Thank you for this video. I have a zz502 create motor. Started having a tap sound comming from a sticking lifter. I put a half quart of trans fluid in. Ran the motor for 100 miles and drained the oil. The trans fluid stopped the tap withen the first 20miles. Thank you for your knowledge. You saved me a total motor tare down of my motor.
I use one bottle of MMO every oil change on my 540 it really works and I use synthetic MMO on my regular cars I use MMO on my 540 gas it's carburated and same it works wonderful.
I’ve been using it for years and it works great! Does not harm the engine… in fact close to transmission fluid is marvel, mystery oil, which I also use in my gas and oil changes! 😮 Greg
I do an ⅛ of aft, it's plenty and you don't need to worry about thinning. I run for around 500 miles before a change. I have 2002 V6 4 runner with 300k and it runs like a sewing machine with outstanding compression for the mileage. I also have an old chevy g20 with a 350 that i do the same with. It runs so good.
?????? I have 2003 Cadillac Seville holds 7 quarts oil. What do you recommend to stop tapping knocking sound. Told it's probably lifters or pistons. Are pistons , cylinders and lifters the same thing ? I'm not very car smart lol. Also told could be timing chain ? I just want the mouse to stop . Help !!
Great advice. Once flushed out 3000 to 5000 miles max oil changes. I now use Petronas Syntium Oil. Not sure if available in USA ( I am UK based). However, you guys have Valvoline and they have just brought out a "Restore & Protect" oil which is supposed to reverse any build up of sludging/carbon.
Outstanding, just completed 4 hour session with my 1996 Lexus ES300. 2 hours, slowly raised RPMs to 4K every 30 minutes, swapped filter. oil was black. 2nd 2 hours session, 4K RPM every 30 minutes, Swapped Filter, oil came out Red. Replaced oil pan sealant, cleaned Oil Pick up ( chunks of solid carbon chips ), swapped filter added new oil. WOW, super quiet now and cooler. THANK YOU MASTER CPR!
@@jimchang911 great thanks, so rest of time just let it idle.? and every 30 min just raise to 4 k rpm and then let idle again. i only need to make an oil pressure gauge on my engine,
@@jimchang911 thanks very much, iam now in process of thinking how to get an neatly oil gauge on my M54 engine. And i hope i can clean out all the debris from oil control rings..... Thanks for your help so far
Here's a thought. Use good quality high detergent oil all the time. You won't need to flush. As for buying a used vehicle that hasn't been well cared for, the damage has been done and you won't do any more harm with a quart of ATF.
When it comes to your personal vehicle yes, better maintenance. I have to deal with new customers cars that haven't been maintained though. That is after all most the cars I need to repair. The ones that haven't been maintained.
Thanks for clearing that up I was not aware that a diesel was an actual engine but for your information the oil is darker because it's been exposed to higher heat from compression
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The wax thing was in the 1970s... My car in my 2010 Mazda 5 2010 2.3l. For my first 60k miles have used Castrol edge. The other 50k miles is between QSUD, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum and Pennzoil UP the results were perfect. I have change my valve cover gasket recently and no sludge at all !!! A little bit af varnish on the vvt seIenoid. I think is more the frequency of the maintenance the problem here. I lot of people are in the severe conditions for maintenance vs normal conditions.
I have used Lucas oil stabilizer in all my vehicles except the two I have now (Silverado & Yukon) both with VVT. When I was using Lucas I never had any issue whatsoever ! I was at my locally owned oil change shop one day just killing time with the owner (good friend of mine) & they had just done an oil change on a 1st generation Kia Sportage. There was a miscommunication between the shop owner & Kia owner. He thought the vehicle was good to go, so he backs it out of the service bay & leaves it running in parking lot bc it's cold outside. He comes back in to pay & we all get to talking. A good 20 minutes go by & the shop owner says why is your car outside we hadn't put oil in it yet. They run out & see that the oil pressure light is on, they turn off the car, Put oil in it & start it back up. It idles fine without any knocking. The car owner had been using Lucas religiously for the past yr or so. He drove that car everyday after that for several yrs. Last I talked to him about it that Kia had over 300,000 miles.
i agree i have several vehicles with 300-500k miles on original engines and ive been using lucas for 18 years never in my life have i had an engine failure
Bought a 93 corvette new. Ran Mobil 1 for over 100k. You could still see the assembly paint on the valve train when looking through the hole in the valve cover when changing oil.
Engines with VVT, really need to stick to a strict oil maintenance regimen, and the use of a good quality oil is highly recommended. I had a Honda Accord that began to develop like a grunting sound on cold startup. I actually thought it was the starter hanging up, but it was actually that the VVT was clogged. It held 5 qrts of oil, so I put in 4 qrts of oil and 1 qrt of transmission oil.. Ran the car for about 500 miles and the grunt just went away. If you are going to be doing a multiple flush, I would buy the cheapest oil and filter I could find.. Then go with the best oil and filter for after the flush is completed.
THANKS for the video! learning some things. Might even use the USED trans oil - keep on hand for such flushes. Also curious if you recommend an additional oil change in between FULL ATF process and ending w full synthetic.
Typically stay with conventional oil for a few oil changes. Once the ATF does whatever magic it does the stuff in the engine tends to continue to break away for a little while. So you need to do your oil changes sooner until the engine is finally cleaned up. Even after that I will occasionally throw one court of ATF in when I do an oil change. If you pay attention to your oils condition and how dirty it gets between changes you will notice once it's cleaned out it will stay cleaner longer. That's when you switch back to full synthetic.
I became a believer in lucus engine oil treatment. A friend bought a 86 Chevrolet truck v/6 4 bbl rod knocking pretty loud. We changed oil one bottle lucus an quaker state oil. As soon as he cranks it holds to floor cranking and it stopped knocking from wide open. I just bought a 2005 Silverado Crew cab 5.3 and I like it got to put this new radiator in to realize what I bought $1800.
Have 2003 Cadillac Seville that has a tapping sounds. Don't know if that's what people mean when they say ticking sound ? Anyway I tried slick 50 helped a little but came back . What do you recommend. Adding a pint run for I ding know how many miles then change oil. Or add quart run for 15 min drain oil and replace. Or add quart and what ??
I've been using transmission fluid for years to clean the motor. work's great. and i agree with you about Pennzoil and Quaker state both are junk oil thanks for the information in your videos
For what its worth, I drove semi for living. Ive delivered products to the Houston, Tx oil plant. Here they produced Pennzoil, Havoline, Valvoline, all thru the plant and ship out in cases of qts of oil. In the past I wouldnt have used Pennzoil on a bicycle chain, also Valvoline was my oil of choice, and Havoline I was on the fence with quality. So.....u deside from there.
They used to have high sulfate or sulffer or wax crap in there oils but that was yrs ago before they stopped putting zink in oil ... I used to see the major sludge from those motors poeples using those oils myth or not I'd seen it first hand many times 30 or 40 so yrs ago
Confused. Add quart for 300 miles. Thought quart was too much. Heard use pint or half a quart. And run only for 15 to 25 min . Then I heard you can add quart and run for 3000 miles it won't hurt engine since my car holds 7 quarts . So 1 to 2 quarts atf and 5 to 6 quarts oil.
Maybe 40 years ago but saying now pennzoil is causing sludge is nothing but supporting that stupid mith. It's like you say fork make Rosie O'Donnell fat
Just to let you know, the Napa Gold filter is the same as a Wix. Same manufacturer, same filter. So, for anyone who wants Wix quality, and to save a few bucks.
Yes, they are the same as standard wix filter. Napa only sells it for maybe $0.10 cheaper from what I recall. Best deal is to get the wix filers at rockauto.com. The napa golds are different from the better wix racing filter though. The wix racing has a metal screen with the pleats to prevent from pleat collapse under high volume high pressure conditions.
Yeah, im not sure on price. I have a fleet discount at Napa, so it only cost me about $6 or $7. As for Wix racing.... Ain't nobody got time for that. Im not racing, and I change my oil every 3 to 4k. A good filter is all I need. Hell, I could probably use a Fram, and be just fine. But I ain't risking it.
I prefer naphthenic oil like baby oil to clean an engine. The fame of ATF came from the time they used naphtenic base oil. Not used anymore. Naphthenic oils has morexl solubility tha parafinic base (engine oils) does and work like a high detergency oil.
Trued marvel it didn't help. Told night need to try again. Also tried slick 50. Still tapping sounds comes back. Told it's lifters or pistons or cylinders issue . I'm not car smart. What do you recommend ?
Since I grew up in NW Pennsylvania... I've seen the build up problem in Pennzoil & Quaker State.. well any Pennsylvania based paraffin based oil... I'm not sure about their new synthetic oil... I use Mobil 1 exclusively.. and now live in Washington State .. my cars also don't rust as quickly...
I used ATF on my truck to help with ticking. So far it has worked. Ticks way less, goes away in 20 seconds & runs smoother. When I brought it was bad bit the deal was so "good" either atf or marvel will fix or just rebuild it. I just did it 3 days ago 08/25/21. I'm going to change in it 1000 miles. Guy did not take care of this truck as good as he claim. Interior & body really nice for an 08 but mechanicals mannnn.
@@rehab4everybody Definitely better but I'm going to try 2 qts next oil change. It worked 100% on my Sierra & Tahoe 2 yrs ago. My wife Escalade which is different type lifter it's not as quick on solving it.
@@rehab4everybody It's getting better. Took it on a 4hr trip last week to visit my daughter. I'm seeing a difference. Drove again after a few days to store. Definitely much quieter under throttle now. I think there may be hope.
Wow, didn't know about this trick. After using your tool to fix my stuck lifter, I need to flush it now. We talked about using the Amsoil flush and now I'm seeing this trick. Hmmm Not sure but 🤔 HMMM.
Awesome video and great information, I will do this on my 2017 Silverado 5.3 for the next oil change. Just one question, will this flush process free up a collapsed lifter?
Quacker State and Pennzoil are junk. I worked in the oil change business for 12 years and you could tell what customers used Pennzoil. If you could look into the engine from the oil fill you could see tarnish and sludge residue, even if they changed it ever 3000. On my first car I used quacker state, I was young and didn't know better. It started making a slight lifter noise as time went by and eventually it worse to the point it sounded like a diesel. These days I use nothing but synthetic valvoline oil. It keeps the internal engine clean. When I had to replace a head gasket on a car the mechanic said the engine looked clean like it was a new car.
Back in the 80's my Dad tried Penzoil just once in his lawn tractor even before time to change it he had to drain it ( it took 48 hrs😂) the oil looked like tar he even brought it in to Roper factory tech department to show them and test,the thickest honey flowed faster than this oil. Don't care they've changed I'll never run Penzoil ever
oil analysis shows that atf has very low viscosity and very low of detergent. Using corn / canola oil will be better because it have much much better solvency not just low viscosity.
I think if you rip paper towels really tight and shove it up their it'll do the same thing you'll have to work the driveway up once in awhile but it doesn't cost that much
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I was a diehard Pennzoil guy, ever since I got my tahoe with 130k in it, I would use full synthetic Pennzoil. When it hit about 210k I started to notice the Pennzoil getting extra thick when changing. The last time I used the Pennzoil it was maybe 2k since the last change and it was thick like tar. I quickly drained it all out and did a thorough flush and started using Castrol synthetic. It hasn't happened since, but now my lifters are starting to sing as of lately 240k currently all stock dod disabled.
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As stated I would not drive with seafoam. And be careful not to go over recommended amount. It is kerosene and isopropyl alcohol. I believe 70-30%. That's regular rubbing alcohol for anyone that may not know! Im not a Lucas fan so just leave that one. 😁 On oil stories I'm of the same thought on Quaker state. The newer I'm sure is better but it used to be horrible! Seems many think Castrol is somewhat cheap. Ive put many hundred k with the old GTX. Engines clean & run like new 2-300k +. That's all my miles though! I haven't found out what the hype is about synthetic in real world results unless it's really cold. I will take a long time to see! 😁
FYI, standard rubbing alcohol is 70-90% pure and the remaining is 10-30% water. Only use Heet 100% pure iso-prop if mixing up a batch. I wont pay $8 a pint for Seam Foam anymore.
I have a 2015 Yukon with 60,000 miles on it and I use royal purple full synthetic engine oil for a wile now, but for the engine flush I pour in a bottle of sea foam to clean any sludge from my engine for maintenance on every oil change what are your expertise thoughts on this... appreciate the video and info👍
Look up the CZcamsr project farm. He tests everything. You might find you'd like to switch your oil. I sure did and I ran royal for years in my built s10 making 470whp
So glad I found your channel. Quick question: for your average Joe in his daily driver, any special suggestions if i were planning to run some ATF here at the end of my oil cycle for the last 300 or so miles? Without making a huge post - i am already experiencing pressure issues and some random tapping that comes and goes , is there any other warning I may watch out for during the clean?
Sir, I have a 08 Sierra 1500. Bought it brand new and always changed my oil every 3000 with Mobil one with the same filter. 160,000 miles. I have noticed within the last year if I drive it cold the oil pressure will be pretty high running through the gears. Kind of goes with the rpm. When it's warmed up oil pressure is pretty low. A little too low for comfort. The only vehicle I bought brand new and probably the last.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I have a 08 Tahoe 5.3 with 173k miles Williston ND so ass cold up to -30 winter temps sometimes and 100 degrees in summer I run amsoil 5-30 same kinda problem.. I get like a 18 to 22psi at idle when warm idle and 35 to 40 psi at 70mph lets say..
Here's the problem once you pour the transmission fluid down the carburetor the carbon in the engine and exhaust system begins to get very heavy and blows it out so you got to run that baby hard so that cloud behind you the size of Manhattan Island
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I don't use it for an oil change or anyting I had a court when it needs it here and there when the oil change needs replacing I go back to the oil change shop well in this case my mechanics and they do my oil change every 3000 every 3500 miles they also mentioned for me not to use Pennzoil they call it the yellow death what is this yellow death that they referring to about this oil
Purolator makes Ford's oil filters . Also what are your thoughts on the lucas Synthetic oil stabilizer ? I'm looking to add protection when towing . My engine uses 8 litres of 0w20 . Should I substitute 1 litre for a bottle of Lucas syn stabilizer ? My truck is new still . Just looking to take the best care of it
I have a 2007 GMC Denali with the 6.2...it does not have the AFM system. I have a low oil pressure problem, like it will drop down to almost 0 when warm and in idle. I do not have a collapsed lifter...I’ve checked. I replaced the o-ring on the pick up tube and replaced the oil pump. Yesterday I did the ATF engine flush for about 8 hours. After the flush the oil pressure now when warm and at idle has raised to 20. Should I do the flush again? Looking for any recommendations you might have for me.Thanks!
How do you check fir collapsed lifter. I'm new to this trying to learn. I have a 2093 Cadillac. Told probably lifters issue or something like that. The tapping sounds drives me crazy. It goes away comes back. I've tried marvel I tried slick 50 . Don't know what to do
You can use any type of new atf to flush the engine doesnt have to be dex 6 now if your flushing the transmission your going to want to do the dex 6 for that but make sure you get the entire transmission flushed everything out of the torque converter and entire transmission and replace the transmission filter and gasket as well
Yes I run synthetic and after 3000 miles the oil is still a amber color. Synthetic since new and the car has 200,000 miles on it. Replaced the valve cover gasket and the valve train was spotless. No sludge. So can you explain how it would sludge up by using synthetic oil. The way I see it just do your maintenance
Use full synthetic oil and you won’t have to change your oil for at least 6000 miles. I mean, full synthetic and not synthetic blend. Starting off using small amounts of diesel conditioner is amazing and if you increase the amount overtime, your engine will run great and will run smooth at idle.
It could if it's the right kind of blockage. BMW or Volkswagen for example gets blocked from broken plastic off of some guide parts and it can't break that down. Also keep in mind, some penzoil plugged engines, ATF will break apart the crusty abrasive material and possibly send it through the oiling system. On GM LS based engines it will only go through the oil pump and straight to the filter though. So the GM LS based engines typically Will survive because the pumps are very robust. Some engines though lubricate parts first prior to the oil filter getting any oil, in those engines they will be severely damaged by doing such a thing on a Pennzoil contaminated engine.
The whole thing is a potential problem you can't rebuild a lifter that was the funniest thing ever heard and I think we should been the pushrods just a little bit so they get a better angle on the rocker arms and wear out the valve guides Pastor some more oil deep down in the cylinder from the top to lubricate the Rings in the piston
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just found this video while searching to see if i can fix an issue. my 2000 chevy 2500 has the 5.7 liter engine and over 200k miles. Ran fine yesterday. Started it today and it has a loud valve tick (at least thats what i think it is). Been reseaching engine flushes to see if i can get rid of the valve/liffter tick. I changed the oil today to ensure I had a clean filter and decent oil to start with. I run synthetic mobile 1 5w30. I plan to at least pull 1 quart out and replace it with a quart of ATF. I may even add 5 ounces of seafoam also. Hoping this might get rid of the lifter tap which is really pretty load. its not a subtle tick. Any other suggestions before I try to tacking this on the cheap fix?
No, ATF has high detergent because of the clutch material. Hydrologic systems don't need high detergent because they lack this. The fluid is very similar with exception on detergent.
@@robertpaul3675 Marvel says to add 20% marvel to your oil .. if you use 5 quarts one quart is marvel then change in 300-500 miles after . Its is going to slowly dissolve gunk and open small passages like lifters have , and the oil passages in general. then the gunk is going to the filter . This is slow and safe . For fast there is a method using diesel fuel the video is called "Safe Engine Flush Using Diesel Gasoline"
@@whirlwind8825I have 2003 Cadillac. I have tapping sounds that is annoying. I've tried slick 50, tried marvel oil. Works for bout month then it comes back. Also smell something burning but can't find any oil leakage or on ground. I cBt afford another car or repair this one. How do I make this ticking tapping sound go away. Told by multiple people it's the lifters or pistons cylinders etc. Ding know what difference is . I'm not car smart. What can I put in it to fix this tapping sound. Sometimes it gets loud. So frustrating .
Yes but pay attention to oil pressure, I'm not sure it has a gauge so you might want to use scan tool if possible. If neither of those are an option do it with one quart of ATF on every oil change in place of one of the quarts of oil. After 4 or 5 oil changes your engine will be fairly cleaned up. If you are running 5W20 step it up to 5W30 while doing this. The ATF probably has a weight of that equal to a 0w20 oil. It's pretty thin.
Its a money pit! 🤣 The way I see it you really cant improve oil enough to justify the price! If you ever do actually see a benefit the vehicle is so old you probably have replaced it or the vehicles value doesn't justify the price. Even at that it doesn't appear to be much better if any than some much cheaper oils.
Amsoil oil flush, 5W30, and Amsoil filter helped me clear out extensive sludge from my 1NZ-FE Toyota engine which had already killed my oil control solenoid and messed up my VVT timing. It was like $80 CDN in total, but well worth it for me.
Idk about GM but I'll never put another Fram filter in one of my German cars. My brother made that mistake one time and wound up with a collapsed filter and spun bearing within 3500 miles. MANN filters are what I've always used as they're designed not to collapse even at the ridiculous suggested oil change interval of 15000 miles...bad idea to follow that schedule but if it will last 15000 then it will have no problem on a 5000 mile schedule.
And what I do with all my motors don’t matter what I put 1 quart of ATF and minus out 1 quart of motor oil and run it for the full length and that way that motor is clean all the time after every oil change another court ATF goes back in that motor
So you run your car or truck for 3,000 miles with 1 quart atf rest oil. My car holds 7.5 quarts with filter. So I would add 1 quart atf and 6 quarts oil for 3,000 miles. And keep doing that every time ?
At the 6 minute mark I had to stop it, you contradicted yourself 3x regarding high detergency of ATF, a simple oil analysis proves it has very low detergents compared to engibe oil. Why is that, no combustion chamber blowby, that oxidizes oil, no soot, no fuel. ATF is a SAE 5 weight oil and is not a multiviscosity oil. Only way to know engine temp is to measure oil temp. The readon why you see a drop in pressure is because the ATF is thinning out so much, and maintaining proper viscosity at 100C. Its better than using a caustic petroleum distillate found in many flushes, the best flush is 100% API certified motor oil. 10-20% of used oil will remain in an engine after a normal oil change. This old oil oxidizes, creates varnish, sludge and carbon, when mixed with soot and fuel. This clogs, oil drain holes and rings, clogs PCV, DOD, AFM, systems. Use 5qts of cheap clean oil as a flush oil, run it till hot and drain, use at each oil change, use same oil 2-3 timez, then discard.
06 pilot, been using the yellow bottle, on time oil changes. Changed spark plugs, valve job, and Honda complete timing kit, still ticks loud..... I’m thinking cam lobe knocking on one lifter...... not sure what kind of lifters the 3.5 has....... I’ll try a motor flush and see... if the tick gets better, it’s gone
Pilots are common for timing chain tensioner to knock /tick….plunger pressure gives out …not enough slack to jump time but scary noisy ….easy fix do timing belt job if it’s been less than 50k since last timing belt do tensioner only…seats wear on pilots so valves actually get tighter over time not noisy…long enough and your valve adjustment will cure a dirty idle and tight valves but that’s approaching 300k
Even a NEW tensioner can be bad….run on rack put a long screw driver on tensioner it sticks out of timing cover some…you’ll FEEL the tensioner knock …when you do it’s a dead hit for the noise
I have a 01 Tahoe. Every oil change I do 1 full quart atf with 5 quarts oil. 210k engine purrs like a kitten....doesn’t even have that cold start knock people talk about.
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Do not do this. Its ok to mix a quart or 2 max with your existing oil to flush, but you cant replace it all and especially dont run it idling as long as this guy. Will cause bearing wear. Atf is not a good lubricant. Should question when he says " this might take out your engine".
@@connorwallace9643 most motor flush in the market are made with diesel. 1qt max at idle 5 to 8 minute. Old people use atf, kerosene, diesel. Diesel is the best but they dont clean that much because is not agressive like people think. And atf you can left 1 qt up to 2,000 miles
@@connorwallace9643 engine flushes are made of diésel. I use this formula in all cars of my family. Corolla 2010 , jeep 3.7 ,jeep 4.0, volvo s80 t6 in the volvo only 6 minutes because is turbo.
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An old school way was to remove 1 qt or so 300 miles before the oil change, replace that 1 qt with ATF and drive your 300 miles and change your oil.
Did you do it ever or even often?
Thank you for this video. I have a zz502 create motor. Started having a tap sound comming from a sticking lifter. I put a half quart of trans fluid in. Ran the motor for 100 miles and drained the oil. The trans fluid stopped the tap withen the first 20miles. Thank you for your knowledge. You saved me a total motor tare down of my motor.
I use one bottle of MMO every oil change on my 540 it really works and I use synthetic MMO on my regular cars I use MMO on my 540 gas it's carburated and same it works wonderful.
I’ve been using it for years and it works great!
Does not harm the engine… in fact close to transmission fluid is marvel, mystery oil, which I also use in my gas and oil changes! 😮
Greg
I do an ⅛ of aft, it's plenty and you don't need to worry about thinning. I run for around 500 miles before a change. I have 2002 V6 4 runner with 300k and it runs like a sewing machine with outstanding compression for the mileage. I also have an old chevy g20 with a 350 that i do the same with. It runs so good.
??????
I have 2003 Cadillac Seville holds 7 quarts oil. What do you recommend to stop tapping knocking sound. Told it's probably lifters or pistons. Are pistons , cylinders and lifters the same thing ? I'm not very car smart lol. Also told could be timing chain ? I just want the mouse to stop . Help !!
Great advice. Once flushed out 3000 to 5000 miles max oil changes. I now use Petronas Syntium Oil. Not sure if available in USA ( I am UK based). However, you guys have Valvoline and they have just brought out a "Restore & Protect" oil which is supposed to reverse any build up of sludging/carbon.
Outstanding, just completed 4 hour session with my 1996 Lexus ES300. 2 hours, slowly raised RPMs to 4K every 30 minutes, swapped filter. oil was black. 2nd 2 hours session, 4K RPM every 30 minutes, Swapped Filter, oil came out Red. Replaced oil pan sealant, cleaned Oil Pick up ( chunks of solid carbon chips ), swapped filter added new oil. WOW, super quiet now and cooler. THANK YOU MASTER CPR!
Did you let the engine just run idle? And after 2 hours rev. It up?
Or did you let the engine run higer rpm?
@@eDXTRe Every 30 minutes I raised the RPMs until 4K RPMs, Hope that helps
@@jimchang911 great thanks, so rest of time just let it idle.? and every 30 min just raise to 4 k rpm and then let idle again. i only need to make an oil pressure gauge on my engine,
@@eDXTRe Correct, raise it slowly to 4K RPMs every 30 minutes and watch pressure. Break a Leg!
@@jimchang911 thanks very much, iam now in process of thinking how to get an neatly oil gauge on my M54 engine. And i hope i can clean out all the debris from oil control rings..... Thanks for your help so far
Here's a thought. Use good quality high detergent oil all the time. You won't need to flush. As for buying a used vehicle that hasn't been well cared for, the damage has been done and you won't do any more harm with a quart of ATF.
When it comes to your personal vehicle yes, better maintenance. I have to deal with new customers cars that haven't been maintained though. That is after all most the cars I need to repair. The ones that haven't been maintained.
Thanks for clearing that up I was not aware that a diesel was an actual engine but for your information the oil is darker because it's been exposed to higher heat from compression
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The wax thing was in the 1970s... My car in my 2010 Mazda 5 2010 2.3l. For my first 60k miles have used Castrol edge. The other 50k miles is between QSUD, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum and Pennzoil UP the results were perfect. I have change my valve cover gasket recently and no sludge at all !!! A little bit af varnish on the vvt seIenoid. I think is more the frequency of the maintenance the problem here. I lot of people are in the severe conditions for maintenance vs normal conditions.
I use K & N every oil change. That nut is so nice.
I have used Lucas oil stabilizer in all my vehicles except the two I have now (Silverado & Yukon) both with VVT. When I was using Lucas I never had any issue whatsoever ! I was at my locally owned oil change shop one day just killing time with the owner (good friend of mine) & they had just done an oil change on a 1st generation Kia Sportage. There was a miscommunication between the shop owner & Kia owner. He thought the vehicle was good to go, so he backs it out of the service bay & leaves it running in parking lot bc it's cold outside. He comes back in to pay & we all get to talking. A good 20 minutes go by & the shop owner says why is your car outside we hadn't put oil in it yet. They run out & see that the oil pressure light is on, they turn off the car, Put oil in it & start it back up. It idles fine without any knocking. The car owner had been using Lucas religiously for the past yr or so. He drove that car everyday after that for several yrs. Last I talked to him about it that Kia had over 300,000 miles.
Why dont you used it in your actual cars?
i agree i have several vehicles with 300-500k miles on original engines and ive been using lucas for 18 years never in my life have i had an engine failure
Stop lying witch 🧹 save your mickey mouse 🐁 stories for the campfire 🔥😂😂
Tore apart my mustang engine, used Mobile 1 ritually.... clean as a whistle inside.
Bought a 93 corvette new. Ran Mobil 1 for over 100k. You could still see the assembly paint on the valve train when looking through the hole in the valve cover when changing oil.
Engines with VVT, really need to stick to a strict oil maintenance regimen, and the use of a good quality oil is highly recommended. I had a Honda Accord that began to develop like a grunting sound on cold startup. I actually thought it was the starter hanging up, but it was actually that the VVT was clogged. It held 5 qrts of oil, so I put in 4 qrts of oil and 1 qrt of transmission oil.. Ran the car for about 500 miles and the grunt just went away. If you are going to be doing a multiple flush, I would buy the cheapest oil and filter I could find.. Then go with the best oil and filter for after the flush is completed.
I use to always use Quakerstate until I tore down my Toyota engine to rebuild it , I found big globs of oil that looked like clumps of Jello.
THANKS for the video! learning some things. Might even use the USED trans oil - keep on hand for such flushes. Also curious if you recommend an additional oil change in between FULL ATF process and ending w full synthetic.
Typically stay with conventional oil for a few oil changes. Once the ATF does whatever magic it does the stuff in the engine tends to continue to break away for a little while. So you need to do your oil changes sooner until the engine is finally cleaned up. Even after that I will occasionally throw one court of ATF in when I do an oil change. If you pay attention to your oils condition and how dirty it gets between changes you will notice once it's cleaned out it will stay cleaner longer. That's when you switch back to full synthetic.
I became a believer in lucus engine oil treatment. A friend bought a 86 Chevrolet truck v/6 4 bbl rod knocking pretty loud. We changed oil one bottle lucus an quaker state oil. As soon as he cranks it holds to floor cranking and it stopped knocking from wide open. I just bought a 2005 Silverado Crew cab 5.3 and I like it got to put this new radiator in to realize what I bought $1800.
Have 2003 Cadillac Seville that has a tapping sounds. Don't know if that's what people mean when they say ticking sound ? Anyway I tried slick 50 helped a little but came back . What do you recommend. Adding a pint run for I ding know how many miles then change oil. Or add quart run for 15 min drain oil and replace. Or add quart and what ??
I'm hoping an ATF flush will miraculously fix my colapsed lifter for cylinder 7. Doubt it will but it's worth a shot
Use GM EOS Engine Oil Supplement for stuck lifters.
I used a quart for my Subaru with a super noisey lifter within 40 miles it did quie it down..
@@robertkirchgestner2542 atf or eos supplement
@@robertkirchgestner2542atf or oil supplement ??
Atf
I've been using transmission fluid for years to clean the motor. work's great. and i agree with you about Pennzoil and Quaker state both are junk oil thanks for the information in your videos
Pennzoil has perafin wax in it.
Not so... its synthetic derived from natural gas PUP is a very good oil ..the ultra Platinum is expensive tho!!
Holy cow, you’ll leave it idling for 4-8 hrs with ATF? I’d be nervous unless someone like yourself was there with me.
Great post and great recommendations.
very informative ! IUse Penzoil Ultra Platinum in all my vehicles. Great advice
So do I. Or did....😒
Nope junkoil
Ultra platinum is one of the best oils available. The horror stories are only connected with the pennzoil conventional oil.
I use QS my whole life , they as gut as any other oils, just change every 3-5k miles
For what its worth, I drove semi for living. Ive delivered products to the Houston, Tx oil plant.
Here they produced Pennzoil, Havoline, Valvoline, all thru the plant and ship out in cases of qts of oil.
In the past I wouldnt have used Pennzoil on a bicycle chain, also Valvoline was my oil of choice, and Havoline I was on the fence with quality.
So.....u deside from there.
The pennzoil/Quaker state stuff is an absolute myth. They use a parifin base stock but nearly all conventional oils do.
They used to have high sulfate or sulffer or wax crap in there oils but that was yrs ago before they stopped putting zink in oil ... I used to see the major sludge from those motors poeples using those oils myth or not I'd seen it first hand many times 30 or 40 so yrs ago
works . IVE PUT
A QAURT IN WITH THE OIL B4 I CHANGEE OIL AND RAN ENGINE ON ROAD FOR 300 MILES THEN CHANGE OIL FOR YEARS.
Confused. Add quart for 300 miles. Thought quart was too much. Heard use pint or half a quart. And run only for 15 to 25 min . Then I heard you can add quart and run for 3000 miles it won't hurt engine since my car holds 7 quarts . So 1 to 2 quarts atf and 5 to 6 quarts oil.
In Idaho we call Pennzoil yellow death! Not fit for bar oil !
Maybe 40 years ago but saying now pennzoil is causing sludge is nothing but supporting that stupid mith. It's like you say fork make Rosie O'Donnell fat
I use Pennzoil
Just to let you know, the Napa Gold filter is the same as a Wix. Same manufacturer, same filter. So, for anyone who wants Wix quality, and to save a few bucks.
Yes, they are the same as standard wix filter. Napa only sells it for maybe $0.10 cheaper from what I recall. Best deal is to get the wix filers at rockauto.com. The napa golds are different from the better wix racing filter though. The wix racing has a metal screen with the pleats to prevent from pleat collapse under high volume high pressure conditions.
Yeah, im not sure on price. I have a fleet discount at Napa, so it only cost me about $6 or $7.
As for Wix racing.... Ain't nobody got time for that. Im not racing, and I change my oil every 3 to 4k. A good filter is all I need. Hell, I could probably use a Fram, and be just fine. But I ain't risking it.
I found Wix filters cheaper on Amazon Prime
ATF has friction modifiers ... Use marvel mystery oil instead...
Marvel tjins the oil pretty bad and can cause knocks. Use BG EPR every 4th oil change.
I prefer naphthenic oil like baby oil to clean an engine. The fame of ATF came from the time they used naphtenic base oil. Not used anymore. Naphthenic oils has morexl solubility tha parafinic base (engine oils) does and work like a high detergency oil.
I change mine every 3k and add 1qt of marvel mystery oil to my oil but next time I change it i will definitely give this a try
And i use Shell 10W-30 Synthetic Blend T5
Trued marvel it didn't help. Told night need to try again. Also tried slick 50. Still tapping sounds comes back. Told it's lifters or pistons or cylinders issue . I'm not car smart. What do you recommend ?
Since I grew up in NW Pennsylvania... I've seen the build up problem in Pennzoil & Quaker State.. well any Pennsylvania based paraffin based oil... I'm not sure about their new synthetic oil... I use Mobil 1 exclusively.. and now live in Washington State .. my cars also don't rust as quickly...
I have seen much come out fron using bg EPR(engine perfirmance restoration).
Much in the way of carbon chunks.
I used ATF on my truck to help with ticking. So far it has worked. Ticks way less, goes away in 20 seconds & runs smoother. When I brought it was bad bit the deal was so "good" either atf or marvel will fix or just rebuild it. I just did it 3 days ago 08/25/21. I'm going to change in it 1000 miles. Guy did not take care of this truck as good as he claim. Interior & body really nice for an 08 but mechanicals mannnn.
How is it going with your experiment?
@@rehab4everybody Definitely better but I'm going to try 2 qts next oil change. It worked 100% on my Sierra & Tahoe 2 yrs ago. My wife Escalade which is different type lifter it's not as quick on solving it.
@@Wormanatti I see, maybe you will make an update video abput the 2qt test ..
@@rehab4everybody It's getting better. Took it on a 4hr trip last week to visit my daughter. I'm seeing a difference. Drove again after a few days to store. Definitely much quieter under throttle now. I think there may be hope.
@@Wormanatti so what do you do add 1 qt of trans fluid with 5 qurats of oil
Morley’s 25:40 is what you forgot, thanks. 👍👍
Wow, didn't know about this trick. After using your tool to fix my stuck lifter, I need to flush it now. We talked about using the Amsoil flush and now I'm seeing this trick. Hmmm
Not sure but 🤔 HMMM.
Awesome video and great information, I will do this on my 2017 Silverado 5.3 for the next oil change. Just one question, will this flush process free up a collapsed lifter?
MAHLE are very good filters
Amsoil makes a good oil filter expensive, but good.
Quacker State and Pennzoil are junk. I worked in the oil change business for 12 years and you could tell what customers used Pennzoil. If you could look into the engine from the oil fill you could see tarnish and sludge residue, even if they changed it ever 3000. On my first car I used quacker state, I was young and didn't know better. It started making a slight lifter noise as time went by and eventually it worse to the point it sounded like a diesel. These days I use nothing but synthetic valvoline oil. It keeps the internal engine clean. When I had to replace a head gasket on a car the mechanic said the engine looked clean like it was a new car.
Penzoil mineral discharged
the lifters pressure
Back in the 80's my Dad tried Penzoil just once in his lawn tractor even before time to change it he had to drain it ( it took 48 hrs😂) the oil looked like tar he even brought it in to Roper factory tech department to show them and test,the thickest honey flowed faster than this oil. Don't care they've changed I'll never run Penzoil ever
oil analysis shows that atf has very low viscosity and very low of detergent. Using corn / canola oil will be better because it have much much better solvency not just low viscosity.
I think if you rip paper towels really tight and shove it up their it'll do the same thing you'll have to work the driveway up once in awhile but it doesn't cost that much
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I was a diehard Pennzoil guy, ever since I got my tahoe with 130k in it, I would use full synthetic Pennzoil. When it hit about 210k I started to notice the Pennzoil getting extra thick when changing. The last time I used the Pennzoil it was maybe 2k since the last change and it was thick like tar. I quickly drained it all out and did a thorough flush and started using Castrol synthetic. It hasn't happened since, but now my lifters are starting to sing as of lately 240k currently all stock dod disabled.
Good afternoon
It makes a lot of sense
I might be a little bite scared about wearing out rod bearings
How can make sure that I am on the safe zone?
If you want to play it safe you can add a little stabilizer to the atf I suppose.
Stabilizer ?? What's that. Band and what is it. Goes in oil or add to gas tank ?
Can I use fuel injecter cleaner on 2017 z71 I heard they don't spray over the value anymore so how can I clean the valves,dumb question im new
Touting oil put some chapstick on it and get over it I want to know what the tire pressure should be in my tires take a guess at that one
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Really good. Thank you
So alternative to the transmission fluids again
Cool deal !!
any convo on atf in the fuel system?
As stated I would not drive with seafoam. And be careful not to go over recommended amount. It is kerosene and isopropyl alcohol. I believe 70-30%. That's regular rubbing alcohol for anyone that may not know! Im not a Lucas fan so just leave that one. 😁 On oil stories I'm of the same thought on Quaker state. The newer I'm sure is better but it used to be horrible! Seems many think Castrol is somewhat cheap. Ive put many hundred k with the old GTX. Engines clean & run like new 2-300k +. That's all my miles though! I haven't found out what the hype is about synthetic in real world results unless it's really cold. I will take a long time to see! 😁
FYI, standard rubbing alcohol is 70-90% pure and the remaining is 10-30% water. Only use Heet 100% pure iso-prop if mixing up a batch. I wont pay $8 a pint for Seam Foam anymore.
@@kyleanderson9453 90% is ok. I'm with you on 70 but you get far more than whats in the oz or so of even 70% in blow by.
I have a 2015 Yukon with 60,000 miles on it and I use royal purple full synthetic engine oil for a wile now, but for the engine flush I pour in a bottle of sea foam to clean any sludge from my engine for maintenance on every oil change what are your expertise thoughts on this... appreciate the video and info👍
Look up the CZcamsr project farm. He tests everything. You might find you'd like to switch your oil. I sure did and I ran royal for years in my built s10 making 470whp
So glad I found your channel. Quick question: for your average Joe in his daily driver, any special suggestions if i were planning to run some ATF here at the end of my oil cycle for the last 300 or so miles? Without making a huge post - i am already experiencing pressure issues and some random tapping that comes and goes , is there any other warning I may watch out for during the clean?
No more than 15% atf added to old oil
ATF to fix leaks and pump up the lifters is an old used car dealer trick.
Atf can fix leaks , how does it do that ??
@@connorwallace9643 Softens and swells seals.
Sir, I have a 08 Sierra 1500. Bought it brand new and always changed my oil every 3000 with Mobil one with the same filter. 160,000 miles. I have noticed within the last year if I drive it cold the oil pressure will be pretty high running through the gears. Kind of goes with the rpm. When it's warmed up oil pressure is pretty low. A little too low for comfort. The only vehicle I bought brand new and probably the last.
What is hot idle pressure?
I meant driving it without letting the engine warm up
Still what are you calling low oil pressure and what is at cold idle then? What is cold temp in your location?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I have a 08 Tahoe 5.3 with 173k miles Williston ND so ass cold up to -30 winter temps sometimes and 100 degrees in summer I run amsoil 5-30 same kinda problem.. I get like a 18 to 22psi at idle when warm idle and 35 to 40 psi at 70mph lets say..
Here's the problem once you pour the transmission fluid down the carburetor the carbon in the engine and exhaust system begins to get very heavy and blows it out so you got to run that baby hard so that cloud behind you the size of Manhattan Island
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I don't use it for an oil change or anyting I had a court when it needs it here and there when the oil change needs replacing I go back to the oil change shop well in this case my mechanics and they do my oil change every 3000 every 3500 miles they also mentioned for me not to use Pennzoil they call it the yellow death what is this yellow death that they referring to about this oil
Well I have left que Corte Pennzoil left in my truck they're going to be tossed in the rubbish first thing in the morning
I'll be getting an oil change on my rig tomorrow
I would say the best oil I've ever used was Royal Purple
It was a very expensive oil change for my engine ran great
That's what I really want to know what do you think about Royal Purple oil or Mobil 1
Purolator makes Ford's oil filters . Also what are your thoughts on the lucas Synthetic oil stabilizer ? I'm looking to add protection when towing . My engine uses 8 litres of 0w20 . Should I substitute 1 litre for a bottle of Lucas syn stabilizer ? My truck is new still . Just looking to take the best care of it
Change your oil every 3,000 miles...... small investment that pays later without experiments !
unnecessary waste of money.
Lucas is the bomb!
I have a 2007 GMC Denali with the 6.2...it does not have the AFM system. I have a low oil pressure problem, like it will drop down to almost 0 when warm and in idle. I do not have a collapsed lifter...I’ve checked. I replaced the o-ring on the pick up tube and replaced the oil pump. Yesterday I did the ATF engine flush for about 8 hours. After the flush the oil pressure now when warm and at idle has raised to 20. Should I do the flush again? Looking for any recommendations you might have for me.Thanks!
Change the oil pressure switch or use a dedicated engine flush from BG, K&W/CRC
How do you check fir collapsed lifter. I'm new to this trying to learn. I have a 2093 Cadillac. Told probably lifters issue or something like that. The tapping sounds drives me crazy. It goes away comes back. I've tried marvel I tried slick 50 . Don't know what to do
Is there any vehicle/situation where you would be hesitant to do this? Ever have any problems?
Specifically, what about older vehicles w/ a good number of miles on them?
Quaker state burned my dirt bike up,so I agree
Quaker state doesn't make oil for powersports to my knowledge
I have a 2001 GMC Sierra SLE extended cab 2 wheel drive 5.3 L V8 Vortec flex fuel what can I do to make my motor run better
i flush with automatic transmission fluid for 1 hour , it didnt solve my cam sensor problem
I don't know why a flush of any sort would have any effect on a cam sensor problem...
For a 2010 suburban 5.3 do I need to use dexron 6 to flush the engine? And when u change the filter, do you need to tap new atf oil again?
You can use any type of new atf to flush the engine doesnt have to be dex 6 now if your flushing the transmission your going to want to do the dex 6 for that but make sure you get the entire transmission flushed everything out of the torque converter and entire transmission and replace the transmission filter and gasket as well
@@nickstewart3725 thank you sir
WTF dude turn the bells off !!!
No matter what. Change your oil every 3000 miles. If you can't afford to change your oil you can't afford the car. I run full synthetic
Runs fully synthetic. Your motor is going to sludge up.
Yes I run synthetic and after 3000 miles the oil is still a amber color. Synthetic since new and the car has 200,000 miles on it. Replaced the valve cover gasket and the valve train was spotless. No sludge. So can you explain how it would sludge up by using synthetic oil. The way I see it just do your maintenance
@@voodoochild8697he’s a troll. Elaborate why you change at 3k. Not a bad idea to be honest.
Use full synthetic oil and you won’t have to change your oil for at least 6000 miles. I mean, full synthetic and not synthetic blend. Starting off using small amounts of diesel conditioner is amazing and if you increase the amount overtime, your engine will run great and will run smooth at idle.
Conventional Castrol also has that horrible wax in it..
Would this clean a some what clogged pick up tube?
It could if it's the right kind of blockage. BMW or Volkswagen for example gets blocked from broken plastic off of some guide parts and it can't break that down. Also keep in mind, some penzoil plugged engines, ATF will break apart the crusty abrasive material and possibly send it through the oiling system. On GM LS based engines it will only go through the oil pump and straight to the filter though. So the GM LS based engines typically Will survive because the pumps are very robust. Some engines though lubricate parts first prior to the oil filter getting any oil, in those engines they will be severely damaged by doing such a thing on a Pennzoil contaminated engine.
The whole thing is a potential problem you can't rebuild a lifter that was the funniest thing ever heard and I think we should been the pushrods just a little bit so they get a better angle on the rocker arms and wear out the valve guides Pastor some more oil deep down in the cylinder from the top to lubricate the Rings in the piston
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mobile 1 ok every 5000 on a older gmc 4.3 6cyl. ? talking with truckers, they pour a gallon of atf in their diesel fuel and engines
ATF:
Synthetic or NON sunthetic. ????
Either but honestly I bet type f old-school Ford stuff would work best if I were to pick one.
Many. Thx.
Really appreciate response and u sharing your wisdom with us.
Many. Many. Thx
And mu engine has a slow tick sound when first start after its running it stops help i just got it,thanks
so should i stop useing quaker state oil on sae blend
4-8 hrs, this is definitely not a good idea. Use diesel mixed with oil for 10 min, all done. And it lubes allot better..
Isn't adding diesel to car engine oil dangerous. I have what I'm told is lifter problem. Loud tapping. Drives me crazy
Next time you do a live stream, turn your notifications off
Penzoil platinum
i chang oil every 3000 miles in a 98 buick quakerstate an it has sludge in it
Yes, stop using Quaker state if you're getting gummed up.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair what oil brands do you recommend ? I can't afford much. Hard times unemployed Repair
My 08 clicks right at start up, then goes dead quiet, then eventually starts clicking again
You might have a exhaust manifold leak.
just found this video while searching to see if i can fix an issue. my 2000 chevy 2500 has the 5.7 liter engine and over 200k miles. Ran fine yesterday. Started it today and it has a loud valve tick (at least thats what i think it is). Been reseaching engine flushes to see if i can get rid of the valve/liffter tick. I changed the oil today to ensure I had a clean filter and decent oil to start with. I run synthetic mobile 1 5w30. I plan to at least pull 1 quart out and replace it with a quart of ATF. I may even add 5 ounces of seafoam also. Hoping this might get rid of the lifter tap which is really pretty load. its not a subtle tick. Any other suggestions before I try to tacking this on the cheap fix?
Don't do it!
I thought I had a badass tick
Come 2find out it was my alternator ticking real bad lol
Bearings were baaaad hahahah fuuuuk
NOW IAM GUUUUD
Ever do this on a Tundra with the timing chain tensioner clack? Would hydraulic fluid clean as good as ATF?
No, ATF has high detergent because of the clutch material. Hydrologic systems don't need high detergent because they lack this. The fluid is very similar with exception on detergent.
Those tensioner tracks are plastic and wear off. By time it's making noise the "sled" or "track" is basically gone.
Can I use a half qt of marvel mystery oil and half qt of dex 6 atf and drive 100 miles before oil change to help cleanbor will I cause damage?
Use the marvel mystery oil instead of ATF. The atf has friction modifiers so clutches grip.
@@whirlwind8825 would that have an adverse affect on motor?
@@robertpaul3675 Marvel says to add 20% marvel to your oil .. if you use 5 quarts one quart is marvel then change in 300-500 miles after . Its is going to slowly dissolve gunk and open small passages like lifters have , and the oil passages in general. then the gunk is going to the filter . This is slow and safe . For fast there is a method using diesel fuel the video is called "Safe Engine Flush Using Diesel Gasoline"
@@whirlwind8825I have 2003 Cadillac. I have tapping sounds that is annoying. I've tried slick 50, tried marvel oil. Works for bout month then it comes back. Also smell something burning but can't find any oil leakage or on ground. I cBt afford another car or repair this one. How do I make this ticking tapping sound go away. Told by multiple people it's the lifters or pistons cylinders etc. Ding know what difference is . I'm not car smart. What can I put in it to fix this tapping sound. Sometimes it gets loud. So frustrating .
@@connorwallace9643 czcams.com/users/shortsD5P7GKHzb_8?feature=share I saw this and thought of you .
Rip in peace my ears
Can i do this on a 2009 chevy malibu with a 3.6 ?
Yes but pay attention to oil pressure, I'm not sure it has a gauge so you might want to use scan tool if possible. If neither of those are an option do it with one quart of ATF on every oil change in place of one of the quarts of oil. After 4 or 5 oil changes your engine will be fairly cleaned up. If you are running 5W20 step it up to 5W30 while doing this. The ATF probably has a weight of that equal to a 0w20 oil. It's pretty thin.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you sir!
What about amsoil and their filters?
Its a money pit! 🤣 The way I see it you really cant improve oil enough to justify the price! If you ever do actually see a benefit the vehicle is so old you probably have replaced it or the vehicles value doesn't justify the price. Even at that it doesn't appear to be much better if any than some much cheaper oils.
Ams oil is a great oil but, it is over priced for sure.
Project Farm did a test on oil, I thought it had some very good points in it. czcams.com/video/TWuKvnCq1js/video.html
Amsoil oil flush, 5W30, and Amsoil filter helped me clear out extensive sludge from my 1NZ-FE Toyota engine which had already killed my oil control solenoid and messed up my VVT timing. It was like $80 CDN in total, but well worth it for me.
Idk about GM but I'll never put another Fram filter in one of my German cars.
My brother made that mistake one time and wound up with a collapsed filter and spun bearing within 3500 miles.
MANN filters are what I've always used as they're designed not to collapse even at the ridiculous suggested oil change interval of 15000 miles...bad idea to follow that schedule but if it will last 15000 then it will have no problem on a 5000 mile schedule.
His issues wear likely going to happen regardless of the fram filter.
👍
How do you know you have a sludge problem, low oil pressure? Do you recommend flushing at a certain mileage regardless?
Lifter knock
@@shadowopsairman1583how do you fix it
Wuddup are you located in Chicago??
Nope, South Dakota. I wouldn't touch Chicago with a 10 mi pole right now.
And what I do with all my motors don’t matter what I put 1 quart of ATF and minus out 1 quart of motor oil and run it for the full length and that way that motor is clean all the time after every oil change another court ATF goes back in that motor
So you run your car or truck for 3,000 miles with 1 quart atf rest oil. My car holds 7.5 quarts with filter. So I would add 1 quart atf and 6 quarts oil for 3,000 miles. And keep doing that every time ?
At the 6 minute mark I had to stop it, you contradicted yourself 3x regarding high detergency of ATF, a simple oil analysis proves it has very low detergents compared to engibe oil. Why is that, no combustion chamber blowby, that oxidizes oil, no soot, no fuel. ATF is a SAE 5 weight oil and is not a multiviscosity oil. Only way to know engine temp is to measure oil temp. The readon why you see a drop in pressure is because the ATF is thinning out so much, and maintaining proper viscosity at 100C. Its better than using a caustic petroleum distillate found in many flushes, the best flush is 100% API certified motor oil. 10-20% of used oil will remain in an engine after a normal oil change. This old oil oxidizes, creates varnish, sludge and carbon, when mixed with soot and fuel. This clogs, oil drain holes and rings, clogs PCV, DOD, AFM, systems. Use 5qts of cheap clean oil as a flush oil, run it till hot and drain, use at each oil change, use same oil 2-3 timez, then discard.
06 pilot, been using the yellow bottle, on time oil changes. Changed spark plugs, valve job, and Honda complete timing kit, still ticks loud..... I’m thinking cam lobe knocking on one lifter...... not sure what kind of lifters the 3.5 has....... I’ll try a motor flush and see... if the tick gets better, it’s gone
That might have adjustable valve I forget. A lot of Honda's need the valves set every so often.
Pilots are common for timing chain tensioner to knock /tick….plunger pressure gives out …not enough slack to jump time but scary noisy ….easy fix do timing belt job if it’s been less than 50k since last timing belt do tensioner only…seats wear on pilots so valves actually get tighter over time not noisy…long enough and your valve adjustment will cure a dirty idle and tight valves but that’s approaching 300k
Even a NEW tensioner can be bad….run on rack put a long screw driver on tensioner it sticks out of timing cover some…you’ll FEEL the tensioner knock …when you do it’s a dead hit for the noise
It has 118871 miles
Can I add one quart of transmission fluid in a 6qt system and run it for 3k oil change without damage?
Yes, you can it will help clean things up too.
I have a 01 Tahoe.
Every oil change I do 1 full quart atf with 5 quarts oil.
210k engine purrs like a kitten....doesn’t even have that cold start knock people talk about.
@@FinsleysCustomCarAudio do you just use the generic atf? im thinking of doing this with my 12 burb
@@FinsleysCustomCarAudio Do you let it stay in the engine until the next oil change?
@@FinsleysCustomCarAudio Tell us man :D
Does lucas oil stabilizer work with synthetic oil?
They have Lucas synthetic stabilizer.
unnecessary waste of money.
Are those the same bearings you dragged the camshaft out the scratched up
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Do not do this. Its ok to mix a quart or 2 max with your existing oil to flush, but you cant replace it all and especially dont run it idling as long as this guy. Will cause bearing wear. Atf is not a good lubricant. Should question when he says " this might take out your engine".
If atf wasn't a good lubricant how do transmission planetary gears and bearings last so long?
How much trans fluid is safe to drive 1000 miles with?
I dont use more than 1 quart.
And if i need a flush a good thing is 1 qt of diesel fuel for 14 minute idle speed.
@@josebetancourt6064put diesel fuel into your engine oil fill ? Isn't that dangerous ?
@@connorwallace9643 most motor flush in the market are made with diesel. 1qt max at idle 5 to 8 minute.
Old people use atf, kerosene, diesel.
Diesel is the best but they dont clean that much because is not agressive like people think.
And atf you can left 1 qt up to 2,000 miles
@@connorwallace9643 engine flushes are made of diésel. I use this formula in all cars of my family.
Corolla 2010 , jeep 3.7 ,jeep 4.0, volvo s80 t6 in the volvo only 6 minutes because is turbo.
I think you have to punch more holes in the air filter filter air can get in there better
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👍👍👍👍