etrailer | Yakima 1A Raingutter Tower Side Loader Mounting Brackets Review
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
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Speaker 1: Today we're going to be taking a look at and installing Yakima Side Loader Mounting Brackets for the Yakima 1A Raingutter Towers, part number Y08002. These brackets are going to allow camper shells that don't have gutter rails to work with roof-mounted racks that are for gutter rails.These are designed to work with the Yakima 1A Raingutter Towers, part number Y00101. You can use different size round bars. The ones we're currently using are 58 inches, and they're part number Y00409. These can be mounted any distance apart that you desire, and they'll work with bike racks, kayak carriers, cargo carriers. The bracket measures 5-3/4 inches long, 15/16 inches wide, and 13/16 inches tall.
Your towers will sit right into the gutter rail. Your clamp will fit underneath, and you just tighten it down.Our customer Tom purchased these, and this is what he had to say. "Side loaders are the only product I have found to secure racks to camper shells. Very secure, no water leaks into shell. Quality product."If you're comparing these to other camper shell mounting options, there are top loaders with railing.
Those are nice because you can adjust the spacing, whereas these are permanently mounted in the spacing that you've chosen. However, the top-mounted railing does have the issue of potentially caving through the top, whereas these are more rugged, attached to the side. Also, placing the mounting point further apart helps increase its rigidness.Included with your kit, you're going to get two raingutter brackets. You're going to get a rubber seal that goes between the bracket and your camper shell. You're going to get a large, rectangular washer that's going to help clamp it to the inside of your camper shell and prevent it from pulling through.
This is great when comparing it to other kits that don't have this. They just use washers. This is a much larger surface area than those, so it's going to be much more rigid, especially on a fiberglass camper shell.To install our hardware, you're going to need a half-inch socket, a 5/16 drill bit, and a tape measure to help you line everything up, make sure it's even. Each camper shell is going to be slightly different, so you're going to have to line yours up to find that appropriate spot. The way I like to do that, we'll put the brackets on our gutter towers.
Then we'll tighten it down. We're going to do this on the other side as well.We'll set our bars on top our camper shell in about the position we want them to be mounted. We want to make sure that both sides match up, so you want to find some reference points. We're going to use the top of our window glass molding here and the front of our camper shell to help line this up. We're going to measure from there to there and make sure that it's even on both sides and also that it's the same distance from the front of the camper shell on both sides.Once you've got it lined up and even on both sides, we're going to make a mark around our bracket using a little paint stick. We're going to do that on both sides. Can then take your bracket . We're going to line it up with the marks that we made. We're going to mark our drill point. You want to do that on both sides.We'll now use our 15/16 drill bit to drill out our markings. I'll clean off the area. You can go ahead and clean the paint stick markings that you made off as well. Put a little bit of silicone around the hole. That'll help seal it up to prevent any moisture from leaking into your camper shell. We'll take our bracket. Put the rubber strip on the back of it. Slide our hardware through the bracket, these little carriage bolts. We'll push those through our holes. We'll do that on the other side as well.We're now inside of our camper shell towards the front. Here's our two bolts with the silicone on that we pushed through. We'll now put our nut plate on. That'll slide over both of our bolts. Now, if they're not pushed through far enough to get both the lock washer and the nut on them, you can thread the nut on first on each one. Use your half-inch socket to pull the bolts the rest of the way through. Then we can take our nut off, one at a time. Place on our lock washer and reinstall the nut. Then we'll do the same on the other side. Now we'll tighten them both down. Then we'll repeat that same process on the other side.You can now put your crossbars into place. Make sure that your overhang is even on both sides, and tighten down your gutter foot towers. The kit comes with one set of brackets, one for each side, so if you want to mount two bars on your camper shell to be able to mount things, you'll need to purchase two kits. You'll ins
Hellooo! I'm getting ready to mount this system tomorrow! How do you pick the distance to mount the brackets?? Thanks for the vid.
The distance between the bars is going to be up to you. You will need to install them on the roof in the places that will help you haul what you are needing to put on them. This install that we did was intended to haul two kayaks, which is why we spaced them out a bit further.
www.etrailer.com/Roof-Rack/Yakima/Y00101.html
Would this support a roof top tent?
lol i found this video wondering the same exact thing. No where on the website they come from give a weight rating. would be a nice detail.
I wouldn’t recommend it, leer recommends no more than 220 lbs on top of their canopy. (Depending on model)
@@eviljoseph101 - My (unprofessional) opinion is since LEER is rating the TOP of the shell (Obviously FAR weaker than the uprights) at 220 lbs, downward pressure on the uprights would be a much higher number.
If it were me, I wouldn't worry about it, but I DO love overkill, so I could see using a third (center) rail to disperse the weight over six points. I have NO IDEA what your tent rig (including yourself) weighs, but even at 600 U.S. pounds, that would only be 100 pounds per bracket. You are most likely at far less than that. I'm sure the kit comes with a Max Weight spec for the brackets... Base your installation on that as the shell should handle anything the rail is made for.
No matter how many rails you chose to use, DEFINITELY go with a side mount system like this rather than something that could collapse the unsupported fiberglass roof area. Again... Just my two-cents.
Would it be safe to attach a hoist to these bars once mounted to lift the shell off and use for storage?
I would not recommend lifting the shell off with this set up. It is designed to support a load and not to lift. The hardware can not support the weight of a camper shell.
www.etrailer.com/Roof-Rack/Yakima/Y00101.html
@@etrailer Thanks for that advice! Is there any safe way you know of to be able to hoist it from the top?
We have people that use the Brophy Cable Camper Jacks to lift their caper shell off of their truck in order to get their truck camper in place.
www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jacks/Brophy/CJ74.html