I was using the recommended pressures on the swing arm. I have a 2018 gsxr 600 , 36/42 and I will tell you if you ride hard and ride twisties, dont use that especially for rear its way too much its only if u carry passengers or ride slow… if you ride aggressive 30 front and 26 rear, those pressures when warm will go way up and its perfect, no slip.
Glad im not the only one who thinks like this. 42 is ridiculous honestly dangerous an unexpected bump at that pressure could send your ass flying up off the seat. Tire has no give at that pressure.
Love your videos! Can you do a corner entry video please!!!? Seems to be the place that most can improve on but it's just a guessing game until you lose traction... what do you look for before losing the front!?
great insight as usual! I raced with the AFM in California for years on Bridgestone. pressure was critical. as the track temp went up the pressure had to rise as well. Other manufactures were not the same. If you do a track day get some help from the manufacture of what ever brand you run.
Hi sylvain great information I’ve spoken with you a few times at donnington that’s my local track I’m about 20 minutes away from there I do struggle with tyre pressure each time I’m at track I run Pirelli Diablo super Corsa tyres I’m at donnington on the 19th July
36psi for the front is really meant for your typical road rider who just commutes or goes touring, because they don't want you riding on the road like you would on the track, if you're pushing hard on a nice twisty road then just run basically the same pressures as you would on the track, I tried 28psi in the front on my sv650 recently and it felt great, I figured the lower pressures would help the tyres heat up faster, the only difference is I run higher pressures in the rear because on the road you're usually not getting on the gas hard and early the same way you would on the track, so I choose to run higher pressure in the rear for a bit more longevity.
On my supermoto I run the same pressures on street and track, or close enough (26/25 F/R cold on street, 24/24 F/R on track) but that's because with a 110kg bike on sport bike tyres (Supercorsa SC0) you have to work pretty hard to get heat in them... On my MV I run 33/33 street and 28/26 track with Supercorsa SP V3's
so one thing no one tells and in my opinion is very important: what about the pressures on that kind of tyres in a warm place (summer ~35ºC ambient, sunny) and in a curvy road driving in a sporty style? Should we tend to lower near track pressures? or more near "street" pressures?
A lot of people are shocked that the pressure difference swaps round ( I was ) Going from a much higher rear pressure than front on the road, to a softer rear than front on track. The question is, what about those mad men that go on track with a passenger? 😆
Basically you're saying in the end you will end up with similar tyre pressures (hot) because the tyre has a range where it works best. On the track, you start lower (cold) because the tyre will heat up much more and much faster. Also, you will stay at the lowest end of tyre pressure (hot). So the most important is to measure the reality, on the track and on the road, repeatedly. There is no setting that is correct forever, it will change as you load the tyre. In my experience, 1.8 bar (cold) will be 2.3 bar (hot) very quickly.
I don't know anyone who runs 36F / 42R on a sports bike for the road. Far too harsh even if you adjust your compression. The tire carcass acts as around 20 - 30% of your suspension. It also depends on the stiffness of the carcass. If you ask 100 people, you will get 100 different answers to tire pressures on their sports bikes.
@@Tacgibs he knows more than you. Also the video says increasing psi causes more heat. It doesn’t. It creates less heat because the tyre is not flexing and is dangerous.
@@EricBanner571 Crazy how people can fantasize about your life behind their computer ;) (And also struggle to understand that "recommandations" are not absolutes and should be adapted to conditions). Dave Moss did a nice video about it, but I guess you were too busy inventing a life to others people on the internet to watch it. Don't worry, it's never too late to learn ;)
I use track pressures for road and track alike for years... I ride in the summer and the winter and never had a problem. Lowering tire pressure within reasonable bounds equals more grip (unless you overheat the tire).
If you use the lower pressure settings for the road, surely you are riding illegally. This is why Sylvan said change the pressures back to road pressures. It’s an endorsable offence in the U.K. to ride or drive with incorrectly set tyre pressures.
Yeah but each riders ability varies and so does the ambient and track temps so the pressure rise for the tyres on track will vary....so whats the aimed for HOT pressures on track???? thanks..merci
@@vincentkochel2172 I have tried 33 both front and rear on a footpeg scrapping street pace(I know I should have not go that fast on public roads)... front feels fine while rear keeps giving hints of slip.
Run 36 front 42 rear , but most of the time i don't have a passenger, so what are the real world pressures- on the road - solo rider ? I ride hard on the road & previously in winter have received 3rd gear wheelspin @ 90+ mph , i want a real world safe pressure
All rd bike tyre pressures are too high for solo riding, manuals state pressures for max load, which rarely happens on most bikes, try using F/30psi R/35psi, you'll find bike rides way better, gives more confidence in corners.
I've owned 15 bikes of different makes and models. All of them no exceptions, when ridden below Factory spec always feel like I'm riding in mud. They want to move around and the steering is always heavy. Put them to factory recommended and its like they are not even the same bike. They handle like a razor. This is all street riding at average speeds no more than 90MPH and with a 175lb rider(me), and not pushing it more than 20 over the speed limit in any corner.
I’m doing a track day in a couple of weeks with my ktm 1290r with the RS11’s. Would those pressure apply to the Superduke as well? I normally run 36/36 on the street.
Went well. Stayed in the C class. First time on track sense 2002. The C class had similar times as the B class. Had a B sticker on the bike though. Lots of fun doing Laguna Seca for the first time. The KTM Superduke 1290r with its high torque was so much fun climbing the hill to the corkscrew. Plus wheeling down the front straight was fun too. The Bridgestones RS11 did great too. No issue at all running 25 psi rear and 31 front. Tires did well.
I've got a Panigale V2 What tire would u recommend for aggressive street riding that I will get most klm out of them, should I run the tires recommended pressures , had a friend say 30, 30
The larger rear tire will usually perform better at a lower pressure than the front tire. Dave Moss tuning generally starts people out with the rear 4 psi lower than the front. I'm currently trying 30f/26r cold at 80˚F (Arizona, USA) on my Ducati Diavel 1260S
cold temperature do not make much sense on the track since they'll heat up during use, increasing pressure... what would make sense is to take note of hot temperature, then check the pressure again when they cool down, so that the next time one can start close to proper operating hot pressure without too many pit stops...
Racetracks have rough granite and seashells in them to make them extra grippy. Using street pressures you will overheat the tires and cause very large contact patches. This will cause the sidewalls to fold or twist causing elastic chatter from the tires. It's better to have higher-pressure tires that are stiffer and have a bit of slide in them as opposed to lower-pressure tires and chatter.
Sylvain and Neil are the best commentators in bike racing, the BT sports team are the best - they make the official MotoGP commentators sound like being stuck in a lift with Beavis and Butthead.
Seriously?? 24 not too soft or flat. I haven't even used a psi gauge for years. I use a push down method LOL. I palm the tire and push to see give or softness.
LMAO at some of the crap written in the comments. The man is a former World Superbike Champion and is the current Endurance World Champion, also a MotoGP rider and MotoGP test rider. Yet clowns on the internet think they know more about getting the best out of a tyre, than Sylvain does. Honestly, it’s laughable. If you had any brains, when he speaks you’d listen instead of thinking you know better. How many other World Champions are out there taking time out of their lives to help people go faster? One of the funniest know alls, was some Yank telling us how Sylvain’s geometry changes were all wrong because his mate said so. His mate raced at a club level, yet knew more about setting a bike up than a multiple World Champion. Seriously, some of you clowns don’t know how lucky you are to have all this information given to you for free. Just ask yourselves, how much would Dave Moss charge to set your suspension up and tweak your tyre pressures over the internet?? 😂
@@TheSpainy did they come already fitted to the bike from new or did you have them fitted yourself? I’ve heard factory fitted tyres have less tread and are not as good as the originals you would buy from a tyre fitter. Some people will remove the factory fitted rubber immediately and replace with the same tyre from a fitter.
@@thesled nah I usually run mezteler roadtec 01 but since I started track riding and do less touring I fitted what I thought was softer rubber. Maybe I’m just more aggressive than before due to the track experience.
Whoa hang on a minute. None of that made sense! 36/42 is not a recommended pressure for the road. It’s a maximum pressure. It’s to allow for passengers and luggage and different weights of bikes. There is no way 42 psi is recommended for a sports bike and only the rider against a BMW GS fully laden with clothing, tools and passenger. Lower psi is used on track because it allows a bigger contact patch but will create more heat due to the tyre flexing and creating friction. That extra heat will also cause the air inside the tyre to expand and in turn increase the psi which is why you have hot and cold pressures. If a higher psi is used it will not flex and will actually stay cooler and have less of a contact patch and will give much less grip.
I like your thinking. Plus seems to me the only differences between cold and hot temps are a couple psi, maybe a few. Not really a whole lot to get concerned.
@@justaguy4real hot and cold pressures don’t really matter when using tyre warmers at the track but it’s important to monitor them if you are at a track day without warmers. If you use the cold pressures when the tyre is hot, then the tyre will be 2-3 psi too hard and will cold tear because there is not enough heat generated. This will destroy a tyre a lot quicker. Hot and cold pressures don’t really need to be monitored on the roads as you are speeding up and slowing down for traffic and you don’t generate the same forces through the tyre. I run 33psi front and rear on Bridgestone S22s and along with the correct suspension set up, it’s the combination that suits my riding style and it’s comfortable and safe for the road.
@@thesled that's about my psi's and tires. Think I'm try the Dunlop Road Sport 2 next. Hear they're great with longevity/mileage and traction at a great price.
Same for my street triple RS. recommended tire pressure cold are for the road 35 /40psi but I run 30/28 for trackday. And I doubt that Sylvain is getting the wrong info from Bridgestone….
Well no offence but what if your using your bike on the road like you do on the track? No offence but then why not drop only 50%??? Ive always on my own run mine at 31ft and 29rear always have since i was running 010s loved them and still love the batalax i use now.
Couldn’t agree more, I didn’t change my tyres presets for a track day and was like riding on ice after few laps, lesson learnt
Tyres presets??? What's that
@@justaguy4real he has it electronally controlled
Merci monsieur Guintoli pour vos précieux conseils ! Enfin une explication concrète à tout ça 👌
I was using the recommended pressures on the swing arm. I have a 2018 gsxr 600 , 36/42 and I will tell you if you ride hard and ride twisties, dont use that especially for rear its way too much its only if u carry passengers or ride slow… if you ride aggressive 30 front and 26 rear, those pressures when warm will go way up and its perfect, no slip.
Glad im not the only one who thinks like this. 42 is ridiculous honestly dangerous an unexpected bump at that pressure could send your ass flying up off the seat. Tire has no give at that pressure.
What about riding the twisties aggressively with passenger?
@@SaulVTXFRIDER would depend on your pillion weight
@@SaulVTXFRIDER would depend on your pillion weight
Thank you for your over flow of knowledge ❤️
Thank you Sylvain. You confirmed I was doing it correctly.
Bike looked mega at cadwell Park👌
Loving the new paint scheme
Excellent material, as always.
GSXR looks awesome!
💯
Love your videos! Can you do a corner entry video please!!!? Seems to be the place that most can improve on but it's just a guessing game until you lose traction... what do you look for before losing the front!?
THX Sylvain , for the valuable advise and explanation
great insight as usual! I raced with the AFM in California for years on Bridgestone. pressure was critical. as the track temp went up the pressure had to rise as well. Other manufactures were not the same. If you do a track day get some help from the manufacture of what ever brand you run.
thank you for that
Thank you for your information sir 🥰🥰
Hi sylvain great information I’ve spoken with you a few times at donnington that’s my local track I’m about 20 minutes away from there I do struggle with tyre pressure each time I’m at track I run Pirelli Diablo super Corsa tyres I’m at donnington on the 19th July
Merci pour ces conseils.👍
I just learned something new again.
To the point, useful video. Thanks
36psi for the front is really meant for your typical road rider who just commutes or goes touring, because they don't want you riding on the road like you would on the track, if you're pushing hard on a nice twisty road then just run basically the same pressures as you would on the track, I tried 28psi in the front on my sv650 recently and it felt great, I figured the lower pressures would help the tyres heat up faster, the only difference is I run higher pressures in the rear because on the road you're usually not getting on the gas hard and early the same way you would on the track, so I choose to run higher pressure in the rear for a bit more longevity.
On my supermoto I run the same pressures on street and track, or close enough (26/25 F/R cold on street, 24/24 F/R on track) but that's because with a 110kg bike on sport bike tyres (Supercorsa SC0) you have to work pretty hard to get heat in them... On my MV I run 33/33 street and 28/26 track with Supercorsa SP V3's
très intéressant, magnifique la moto !
Thank you for this short but great video. :)
I have TPS on my BMW S1000RR. When riding on the track, the pressures can increase as much as 5 psi when hot.
so one thing no one tells and in my opinion is very important: what about the pressures on that kind of tyres in a warm place (summer ~35ºC ambient, sunny) and in a curvy road driving in a sporty style? Should we tend to lower near track pressures? or more near "street" pressures?
A lot of people are shocked that the pressure difference swaps round ( I was )
Going from a much higher rear pressure than front on the road, to a softer rear than front on track.
The question is, what about those mad men that go on track with a passenger? 😆
I've always ran 28 rear 32 front on the road
Love the channel Sylvain
🙌Bravo!
Basically you're saying in the end you will end up with similar tyre pressures (hot) because the tyre has a range where it works best. On the track, you start lower (cold) because the tyre will heat up much more and much faster. Also, you will stay at the lowest end of tyre pressure (hot). So the most important is to measure the reality, on the track and on the road, repeatedly. There is no setting that is correct forever, it will change as you load the tyre. In my experience, 1.8 bar (cold) will be 2.3 bar (hot) very quickly.
When i got those new tires i got them with 2.3 bar front and 2.5 rear
If the front tyre is not warming up enough on road, should i lower the pressure a bit? It is on a very light bike.
Lower pressure so the tire can heat up. so what is the warm pressure? 1.8 cold (rear) so hot 2.2?
I don't know anyone who runs 36F / 42R on a sports bike for the road. Far too harsh even if you adjust your compression. The tire carcass acts as around 20 - 30% of your suspension. It also depends on the stiffness of the carcass. If you ask 100 people, you will get 100 different answers to tire pressures on their sports bikes.
Yeah you know better than Bridgestone and a MotoGP rider.
Don't be a smartass ;)
I was using 42 r 36 f 2cts ...no I've moved to 33f 33r ...and its holds the road so much better for me ...
@@Tacgibs he knows more than you. Also the video says increasing psi causes more heat. It doesn’t. It creates less heat because the tyre is not flexing and is dangerous.
@@Tacgibs Listen champ, each to their own. By all means, keep running 36/42 on your 125cc scooter. I'm sure it will handle just like a Moto GP bike.
@@EricBanner571 Crazy how people can fantasize about your life behind their computer ;)
(And also struggle to understand that "recommandations" are not absolutes and should be adapted to conditions).
Dave Moss did a nice video about it, but I guess you were too busy inventing a life to others people on the internet to watch it.
Don't worry, it's never too late to learn ;)
I use track pressures for road and track alike for years... I ride in the summer and the winter and never had a problem. Lowering tire pressure within reasonable bounds equals more grip (unless you overheat the tire).
If you use the lower pressure settings for the road, surely you are riding illegally. This is why Sylvan said change the pressures back to road pressures. It’s an endorsable offence in the U.K. to ride or drive with incorrectly set tyre pressures.
@@classicraceruk1337 No lmao
@@TheRandomBikers You will have the little policeman after you saying NIck, Nick, Nick…….
@@classicraceruk1337 You think? I’ve had them try many many times 😂
@@TheRandomBikers You mean you have not been caught yet. That does not mean the law is not there. A very silly and dangerous remark.
What is happening if you have too low pressure in the track??
Yeah but each riders ability varies and so does the ambient and track temps so the pressure rise for the tyres on track will vary....so whats the aimed for HOT pressures on track???? thanks..merci
Jolie cette suzuki en noir et la combine qui va avec
i got the rs11 and for the road i use 2.6 front and 2.4 rear otherwise its like riding on balloons.
is this applicable for 600cc ?
what about aggressive/spirited street riding?
I second this question
I mean probably the middleground of both ?
@@vincentkochel2172 I have tried 33 both front and rear on a footpeg scrapping street pace(I know I should have not go that fast on public roads)... front feels fine while rear keeps giving hints of slip.
Hi! Is that really correct that for the track is F 2,1b/ R 1,8 b COLD?!?! sounds very high pressure, I use F 2,1/R1,9 WARM PRESSURE
Yes, that’s correct for the RS11’s.
Are those track pressures for warm tyres?
Cold
Run 36 front 42 rear , but most of the time i don't have a passenger, so what are the real world pressures- on the road - solo rider ? I ride hard on the road & previously in winter have received 3rd gear wheelspin @ 90+ mph , i want a real world safe pressure
All rd bike tyre pressures are too high for solo riding, manuals state pressures for max load, which rarely happens on most bikes, try using F/30psi R/35psi, you'll find bike rides way better, gives more confidence in corners.
I've owned 15 bikes of different makes and models. All of them no exceptions, when ridden below Factory spec always feel like I'm riding in mud. They want to move around and the steering is always heavy. Put them to factory recommended and its like they are not even the same bike. They handle like a razor. This is all street riding at average speeds no more than 90MPH and with a 175lb rider(me), and not pushing it more than 20 over the speed limit in any corner.
Bridgestone doesn't spec the *hot* pressures for the track?
what would u recommend for road, michelin power cup 2
What tire pressure for battlax s22 on high road walk?
Is 26F 22R good for track?
I’m doing a track day in a couple of weeks with my ktm 1290r with the RS11’s. Would those pressure apply to the Superduke as well? I normally run 36/36 on the street.
Yep
@robertkehl how did your track day go?
Went well. Stayed in the C class. First time on track sense 2002. The C class had similar times as the B class. Had a B sticker on the bike though. Lots of fun doing Laguna Seca for the first time. The KTM Superduke 1290r with its high torque was so much fun climbing the hill to the corkscrew. Plus wheeling down the front straight was fun too. The Bridgestones RS11 did great too. No issue at all running 25 psi rear and 31 front. Tires did well.
The Carcasse of the pneu?
👍👍✌️🤟
I've got a Panigale V2 What tire would u recommend for aggressive street riding that I will get most klm out of them, should I run the tires recommended pressures , had a friend say 30, 30
The larger rear tire will usually perform better at a lower pressure than the front tire. Dave Moss tuning generally starts people out with the rear 4 psi lower than the front. I'm currently trying 30f/26r cold at 80˚F (Arizona, USA) on my Ducati Diavel 1260S
cold temperature do not make much sense on the track since they'll heat up during use, increasing pressure... what would make sense is to take note of hot temperature, then check the pressure again when they cool down, so that the next time one can start close to proper operating hot pressure without too many pit stops...
Pourquoi sur certains circuits on nous conseil de faire la pression à chaud?
Ca dépend du type de pneu. Pour les RS11 les recommendations sont “À froid”. Mais pour les pneus “💯 circuit” c’est normalement à chaud
Does this rule also apply for less sporty tire for road bikes when riding on track?
I have Metzeler 9rr on my bike
same logic. even if you're on touring oriented tires you want less pressure on track to allow for more compliance, bigger contact patch and more heat
@@TheBaj I know I need less preassure, but should I go with 1,8/2,1 bar on those tires?
Racetracks have rough granite and seashells in them to make them extra grippy. Using street pressures you will overheat the tires and cause very large contact patches. This will cause the sidewalls to fold or twist causing elastic chatter from the tires. It's better to have higher-pressure tires that are stiffer and have a bit of slide in them as opposed to lower-pressure tires and chatter.
Sylvain and Neil are the best commentators in bike racing, the BT sports team are the best - they make the official MotoGP commentators sound like being stuck in a lift with Beavis and Butthead.
26 in the rear!!!!................. 36 sure, 26!!! wow, i would never ever have considered going that low
Idc 42 for road is ridiculous unless you weigh 400lb. Tire is rock hard gives too much bounce/ feedback.
2.1 et 2.2 pour mes arsouille sur route
I run 24 rear 31 front on road
Seriously?? 24 not too soft or flat.
I haven't even used a psi gauge for years. I use a push down method LOL. I palm the tire and push to see give or softness.
If naughty boys reduce my road tire pressure I will feel higher performance on twisty roads, but it's a secret😊
32 32
LMAO at some of the crap written in the comments. The man is a former World Superbike Champion and is the current Endurance World Champion, also a MotoGP rider and MotoGP test rider. Yet clowns on the internet think they know more about getting the best out of a tyre, than Sylvain does.
Honestly, it’s laughable. If you had any brains, when he speaks you’d listen instead of thinking you know better. How many other World Champions are out there taking time out of their lives to help people go faster?
One of the funniest know alls, was some Yank telling us how Sylvain’s geometry changes were all wrong because his mate said so. His mate raced at a club level, yet knew more about setting a bike up than a multiple World Champion. Seriously, some of you clowns don’t know how lucky you are to have all this information given to you for free. Just ask yourselves, how much would Dave Moss charge to set your suspension up and tweak your tyre pressures over the internet?? 😂
Be interested to try the RS 11, I have the 22´s and theyre slippery as fook
I’m running S22s and they are one of the best tyres I’ve used. I run them at 32f 34r so they warm up very fast and are very sticky.
Crazy how two people can have such different opinions on a tire. I’d still like to try the 11’s tho. 🤞
@@TheSpainy did they come already fitted to the bike from new or did you have them fitted yourself? I’ve heard factory fitted tyres have less tread and are not as good as the originals you would buy from a tyre fitter. Some people will remove the factory fitted rubber immediately and replace with the same tyre from a fitter.
@@thesled nah I usually run mezteler roadtec 01 but since I started track riding and do less touring I fitted what I thought was softer rubber. Maybe I’m just more aggressive than before due to the track experience.
@@TheSpainy a friend of mine ran R11s road only and destroyed them after 1k miles. He loved them but couldn’t justify 2-3 sets per year.
Whoa hang on a minute. None of that made sense! 36/42 is not a recommended pressure for the road. It’s a maximum pressure. It’s to allow for passengers and luggage and different weights of bikes. There is no way 42 psi is recommended for a sports bike and only the rider against a BMW GS fully laden with clothing, tools and passenger.
Lower psi is used on track because it allows a bigger contact patch but will create more heat due to the tyre flexing and creating friction. That extra heat will also cause the air inside the tyre to expand and in turn increase the psi which is why you have hot and cold pressures. If a higher psi is used it will not flex and will actually stay cooler and have less of a contact patch and will give much less grip.
I like your thinking. Plus seems to me the only differences between cold and hot temps are a couple psi, maybe a few. Not really a whole lot to get concerned.
@@justaguy4real hot and cold pressures don’t really matter when using tyre warmers at the track but it’s important to monitor them if you are at a track day without warmers. If you use the cold pressures when the tyre is hot, then the tyre will be 2-3 psi too hard and will cold tear because there is not enough heat generated. This will destroy a tyre a lot quicker. Hot and cold pressures don’t really need to be monitored on the roads as you are speeding up and slowing down for traffic and you don’t generate the same forces through the tyre. I run 33psi front and rear on Bridgestone S22s and along with the correct suspension set up, it’s the combination that suits my riding style and it’s comfortable and safe for the road.
@@thesled that's about my psi's and tires. Think I'm try the Dunlop Road Sport 2 next. Hear they're great with longevity/mileage and traction at a great price.
Same for my street triple RS. recommended tire pressure cold are for the road 35 /40psi but I run 30/28 for trackday.
And I doubt that Sylvain is getting the wrong info from Bridgestone….
@@Fabs821 he has got the wrong information. It’s just been worded wrong.
Well no offence but what if your using your bike on the road like you do on the track? No offence but then why not drop only 50%??? Ive always on my own run mine at 31ft and 29rear always have since i was running 010s loved them and still love the batalax i use now.