Applying seam sealer to panels and drip rails on the 1972 C10
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- Here I show the materials I use and how to apply seam sealer to the cab of the 1972 C10. I also show how to apply self leveling seam sealer to the drip rails of the cab. All products again are 3M. I didn’t mention in the video but both 2 part epoxy sealers run about 50 dollars each and the urethane sealer is about 25 dollars.
- Jak na to + styl
I’m in the process of doing a 70 cab so this was very helpful, Thank You!!!
love your attention to detail and the explanation for everything you do.
hangin to see this truck in paint .. cheers from Australia 🍻🇦🇺👍
Thanks for the good words and thanks for watching!
I think it came out great the way you did it, with tape, timing, the order of installation and amount. I believe it is sand-able so it shouldn’t be a problem.
The 3M stuff is tops, but so pricey. I did have a huge advantage over the years since the early 90’s. My neighbor two houses over was a manager at a 3M plant 24 miles west of here. It is off the road hidden somewhat but the building covers 3 acres. I don’t know how it works but I would give him a list of 2 or 3 things and $40, he brought them over. I guess they can buy at cost + 10% and I believe they made 300+ products at this location. So Grn to Maroon scotch brite to activated carbon paint mask were for the asking. My son has done 3 cars as I didn’t do any but got some nylon scuff pads in a case. My son used most of it. Oh well, they move last year. If I could work, I would still be buying but things change and it bugs me.
The effort you placed into those details are passed over in many cases. I have 13 qts of cavity wax, pressure pot-gun and 3 hoses that allow spraying that anywhere in the vehicle you can’t see or touch. So that truck will last 60+ years more with no rust.
Mine is a daily driver if I have somewhere to go. I am in my garage everyday 365 days a year. But if empty, still only a 1 1/2 car garage. Now full of tool boxes, tools and equipment. Oh well.
Thanks very much for the info. There is work to do when the camera is off as well I don’t thing many know about! Thanks for you work and efforts there!
Thanks, I’m just trying to pass the knowledge on to people an mainly educate people on what really goes into this type of work. When you watch the car restoration shows they always show the cool stuff but not all the little time consuming details that go into a build like this. People need to be aware of the hundreds and thousands of hours it really takes behind the scenes.
@@curtrobinsongarage5452 You are very right. Wiring messes many people up making it safe and work. Voltage drop was my favorite go to procedures. But it takes a bucket load of skills. Today, they have remanufactured parts for everything. The city was 25 mile one way, we rebuilt everything diff, tranny, alternators, staters. You end up with a lot of tools. Like a GM diff spreader that allows the carrier, bearings, shims to drop right in with proper side preload. But now, only one tech in the shop does this. Thanks.
Don't forget to ruff up before you prime and paint there that away it will stick good.nice job!
Yeah everything gets a final scuff before laying down the sealer for the base, but thank you.
I like the content. please invest in a tripod for filming. Id like to see more of the work being done to go along with the explanation. just a thought.
Thanks for the comment, you are absolutely right, I’ve been meaning to add a way to film more, I just haven’t done it yet. Because there are many things that are easier to understand when you see it rather than a before and after.
How much tubes of seam sealer did it take for the roof ? Was it only one of each?
They aren’t actually tubes, they are a dual mixture similar to an epoxy cartridge. They use a special applicator gun as well, although I have used them without but it’s a pain to do so. But yes for the roof I used 1 of each. 1 high flowable and 1 non flowable for the vertical parts of the channel. Some use the high flow for the whole roof channel, but it does flow a lot and during curing when it heats up is when it is most liquid so if you don’t time it right and mask off correctly you could end up with quite the mess using the flowable on the vertical portion.
Can I use this for the roof of my Ford truck what they call the pinch trap does it get hard
Yes you can. It gets rock hard so you would normally paint over top of it. It’s actually kind of hard to sand compared to say body filler.
@@curtrobinsongarage5452 thank you
Are you anywhere close to Central IL?
No, I’m located in southern Utah.
How did you decide which parts got 2k vs 1k?
Parts that are exterior or body worked for finish quality paint I use 2k especially the flowable seam sealers. For areas that aren’t visible like wheel wells and vehicle interior areas I use 1k. I would use 2k everywhere but use both for cost reasons.
@@curtrobinsongarage5452 Thanks. I was getting sticker shock when I was looking at doing it all in 2k.
Yeah, that’s exactly why I don’t use it for everything, wish I could it’s good stuff but it’s better to save money where you can when you can while still using good products.
Good information but pan out and maybe point to the areas. Got a headache watching all the movement. Appreciate the info and showing the products used.
Thanks for the feedback.
You're supposed to equalize the cartridges before doing anything by taking the lid off and squeezing a little out and then when you put the mixing tip on squeeze out about 2 inches of product to make sure it's properly mixed. Probably shouldn't teach if you don't know the proper procedures.
I figured that is common sense! It even says that on the instructions. I don’t teach common sense and how to read on my channel.
Good answer!