Thanks! I'm no pro and probably got some stuff wrong but maybe that's why it's easier to understand. The view of the everyday backyard mechanic wanna-be.
@@paulhaines5755 the internets brilliance isn't cat videos, its the how to's from people that take the time to show others what they know. Much appreciated.
Came here for one issue, discovered I may have another. Had no idea a weak stream wasn’t just a sign of old age “issues” in guys… 😂. Oh well… another day with my head wedged in the belly of my ‘97 GTI.
There's water running all around the cylinders below the head, too. There are ports directing the flow from the water jacket (up on top of the engine) to the sides of the cylinders as well as the exhaust manifold. Sorry forgot that BIG detail in my vid. I guess I got stuck in showing what you can actually see!
Paul I know this is an old video but I came across it because of issues with my 97 gti. I'm getting water into my cylinders and fouling my plugs.. would it be safe to say that my o rings in the top cover are bad and need changing
I have not had that issue. I would guess that the first thing you should do is pull the water jacket and the cylinder head off the cylinders and replace the gaskets. Check both metal parts for holes or cracks. Find and follow torque specs and find out if you need to use thread sealant, etc. You will need a manual for this information. Worst case possibility is maybe there is something wrong with the jacket around the cylinders or the exhaust port. I'm not sure what to do to find this problem but I'd do some research on a leak down test. Positive pressure in the cylinders might show you if you have a pin hole somewhere. Keep in mind I'm not a pro tech so these are just my ideas for you...
@@paulhaines5755hi Paul - tried starting my ski up, hooked water up to the flush valve and water starting coming out of a hole in the top of the exhaust manifold and started to flood the inside of the engine bay..
Hmmm - this should be a sealed system. The largest round exhaust pipe has a plug almost on the top of it. This plug I think is from the metal casting process but I'm not sure. It has a tendency to leak on these machines so maybe you need to seal that up with RTV or something. Without seeing a pic or knowing the exact location of your leak I can't say what your issue is.
Great video! Thank you for the simple walk through explanation. There are so many engine and carb videos but none of them helped me understand the cooling system. Thank you from Niagara Falls Canada
Cool - hope this helps you and I hope it makes sense! I don't know if I explain stuff well but I try... Also, the toughest part for me to find was the exhaust hose on the larger end of the exhaust cone. Mine was burned and bubbled. Go to McMaster-Carr online and you'll find the material you need.
@@paulhaines5755 Knowing is Always useful. Now I am bypassing VTS never used it, why spend More Time or cash. Making it manually adjustable just in case for a few moments time and zero $
Hello, good afternoon, I have the hose that goes from the front on the right side where it should drain loose water inside the Jet Ski. A few days ago when I went to the lake I didn't realize it and the entire Jet Ski filled with water inside. Please if you could help me tell me where that hose goes at the other end.
Hello nice video , if was getting towed the main water line you showed starting the black line in from the pump to the top of the head is the one i should kink when being towed ? Thanks
This is the best video I've seen that explains a Sea-Doo cooling system. Thanks for making it. I've been trying to completely understand it's inner workings so I can properly winterize mine. Just to be clear, there is no thermostat that needs to open up in order to get antifreeze into all areas of the system? Everything looks like it's just free flowing at all times..... I was planning on connecting a line with antifreeze to the intake on the top of the motor, turn it on and let it run through. Is there any reason why you would advise against this method? How many gallons of antifreeze would you recommend putting through the system to be sure the water has been removed? I was thinking 2 would probably do.
Thank you! I'm a mechanical engineer so I explain stuff probably too detailed at times. My wife thinks so! Do you have a manual? Sea doo manual for this 717 recommends removing the inlet and outlet hose from the rear of the hull as well as the clear line that goes to the exhaust in the back. You zip tie them above the engine and poor about 1/2 qt antifreeze into the inlet hose. Do I like this? Not really. Be aware that it is possible to over-fill it when it's not running and get antifreeze in the cylinders (or so I presume). I think you are better off doing what you want to do however, I have found it doesn't work that great without pressure - I have tried. I actually pump antifreeze into mine using an RV pump in a bucket while machine is running. 2 gallons is way more than sufficient. Pressure is something like house pressure with my set-up. Thermostat - no I don't believe there is one on these. If you go with Sea Doo's recommendation, I most certainly would fire it up and make sure all the water is blown out of the exhaust before you dump anti-freeze into it ( a good practice when you pull it out of the water no matter). I would think if you're getting antifreeze out of the exhaust on the rear when it's running you are good to go. Hope this helps.
I don't know. I really can't say for sure. Might be something you need to experiment with. You'd prob need some temp sensors on the engine to know if it's operating at the heat range it would normally operate at in the Seadoo. Sorry, Paul.
Oh - you're in luck. I have a manual for this machine and I have done a video on how to winterize. It's tells step by step how to winterize it. I did it per the manual last year and had no issues. Check out my other videos on my channel and you will see the vid you want. Paul
Great video, I have a Sea Doo GTX RFI (1999). I have had a cooling issue since I got it the high temp alarm goes off after about .5 miles of riding. It cools down quickly at idle. I watched your cooling testing video and cannot find any obstructions. Neighbor is a jet ski guy and told me the flush valve on back where hose connect should be closed while running and it has been bothering me. Just watched this one and you don’t have a valve so it’s always open! Is this the same with the GTX as would make perfect sense as to why it gets hot! The flush port stays open while running…?
Hmm - I guess I've never thought about it. The flush port on mine has always been open and I have no issues running that way. I would suggest watching one of my other vids: "Sea-Doo GTI - How to Troubleshoot Overheating". In this vid, you will see a problem I had with some o-rings/flanges in the jet housing. Mine was doing the same as yours. Overheats after five minutes. I found a problem that could very easily overlooked. I describe the parts that were causing the issue at about the 8 minute mark. Easy fix. Good luck!
@@paulhaines5755 I will check it out, going to run mine today and see if I get lucky it only has 100hrs on it. The big line coming off cylinder head goes to the flush port and is teed off to a small line going to exhaust, If only 1/3 of the water is getting out then prob should overheat. I was worried about dumping to much water and no cooling going to the exhaust. Will see, thanks again.
@@paulhaines5755 Hey Paul, lucky me after hours and hours of trying to find the issue online and with my head stuck in the ski that’s exactly what it was. Only issue is the tell tale doesn’t have any water coming out at idle, I can turn the flush valve down about 1/4 a turn and it does but either way it shows after 1/3 throttle. I assume the water box is so restricted all that water cannot escape fast enough. Just glad I didn’t blow a hose or head gasket. I was worried that opening it could over heat the water box/exhaust or would have tried before I spent another 5hrs trying things. Alas your video showed me when yours didn’t have a quick connect flush port. Ski runs strong only has 103hrs on it and looks like it’s 3 y old it’s in amazing condition. Doesn’t see to be many older skis for sale let alone in this condition. Wife and kid don’t seem interested so probably going to put up for sale, any idea what this ski is worth? It’s a 1999 sea doo GTX RFI with barely a scratch on the hull and you could eat off the engine. Fresh water used ski until the last 2 hours. $3500 maybe?? Thanks again for your help, quick response and great videos!
Glad it worked! Such an easy thing to miss. I'm an engineer so I look at all the details really close and often find just a minor thing as I'm almost detailed to a fault! I don't know about value. Depends where you live I guess. $3500 seems a great place to start. As for tell-tale, watch my video about increasing your sea-doo tell tale stream on my channel. Mine had a almost zero stream at idle until I did the fix you will see in my vid. Ten minute fix.
I have no water coming out of the exhaust manifold on the little hose. The little hose feeding it does have water come in but no water coming out the piss hole. What could it be? Where do I start? I have a 96 GTX
Jerry, I have another video title "Seadoo GTI - how to troubleshoot overheating". That might help you more than this video. Watch it and see... thanks! Paul
Nice video thanks. Im trying to connect a shut off valve for when the jetski is getting towed for some reason so the water wont flood into the engine or exhaust. But i dont know where to connect it to in this 717 motor. No videos out there right now of it. Can you make a video for me please.
Hmmm - not sure I have the time for a vid right now. Here's my opinion on this. Again remember I'm no pro-tech guy but I work on a lot of stuff so have some good insight I'd like to think. The hose you need to block off comes in through the rear of the machine on the left side near the bottom drive system hump. It then goes into the top of the engine on the left side where there is an arrow showing the "in" direction of water flow. (Refer to 2:32 thru 2:42) of my vid. This is the hose you need to block off. However, I'd caution against an in-line valve. It is likely you will restrict/change water flow even when it is fully open. I'm sure guys out there do it like you want to do it but there is no doubt you will affect water flow rate doing this unless the inside diameter of the valve block is the same as the I.D. of the hose. I'd just get one of those hose clamps that sea-doo makes for these machine and clamp it on there when you want to tow it. 529032500 is one part number for one. Spendy from Sea-Doo but I bet companies like SBT sell cheap ones. Pretty fail safe thing, , really.
@@paulhaines5755 thank you i did order one pair of those hose pincher last night just to have in the jetski. Also you are correct in the flow rate, which im planning to replace all the lines in there with a all see through fuel, oil, water and air line. Then get the full flow shut off valve to connect it. Thank you
Awesome! Sounds like you got er dialed... As a side note, if you ever have trouble with flow from the jet pump check the o-rings from the pump housing to the hull. My other vid on how to troubleshoot these goes into that issue in detail. It's a small problem that could be hard to figure out if you have issues.
Remember I'm no pro but here's how I think about that - at some point in the system after the double wall pipe exhaust enters the system and is mixed with water. What does this mean? There is a path for water to get back into the exhaust ports and back into the engine. Without positive pressure (exhaust in this case) water could potentially make it back into the engine when you have a hose hooked up and pressurized = not such a good thing. That is also why you don't want to tow these in the water without clamping the cooling system inlet hose. (Slow towing is O.K. without clamping)..
Idk if they differ from ski to ski but the tail tell line on mine is directly attatched to the top nipple on the pipe. It doesnt dump back into the exhaust
How much water is in the water box? Should the water box be filled all the way to the top and thus the inlet exhaust pipe or should the water only be up to the base of the exhaust inlet pipe?
When running or floating? Not sure what you mean. When running all should be full. When sitting the water level will match the depth/waterline that your machine sits at in the water.
@@paulhaines5755 , I didnt know there would have been a difference. Mine is sitting on my trailer and has no water in it. I checked it while it was on the water and it still had no water. I am thinking about manually filling it with a hose...
Do you also know how much water should be flowing directly into the exhaust fumes, I pulled my small pipe off and only dribbles of water was flowing in... Wondering if thats why my water box is empty, cause there isn't enough water flowing into it? Thanks for your help!
The small hose going to the exhaust from the tell-tale hose route might only have a small amount of water going into the exhaust. Depends on RPM"s. Some water goes to tell-tale, some goes to exhaust in the Y prior to the exhaust. The larger hose from the box should have a significant amount of water moving through it depending on RPM's or the water source you have it hooked to. I can't tell you more detail on water level. I don't know for sure. When mine is hooked up to flush hose, it sprays a significant amount of water out of the exhaust.
So can you confirm please! I have a 1997 seadoo gti. To add a tow tap I install the ball valve onto the black intake hose closest to the center. The main black hose from which the water enters from the three holes in the pressure box you referred to correct?
Yes - its the hose port side that enters the top, rear of the engine left side/port side. I have not used a ball valve - a hose/pinch clamp is recommended but I don't know much about it. Thanks, Paul
Catalina Wine Mixer! Nice... The only time I have had to tow my GTI was when it blew one of the hose couplers on the exhaust cone. It happened at full throttle. A friend of mine was riding it and didn't think to stop and see why is was basically sinking until it wouldn't run anymore. The hull was full of water and it was half floating. Had to tow it a few miles. The engine took on water and I had to blow out the crank and do all that fun stuff to get it dried out and running again. I'd definately recommend checking to see that the two rubber exhaust hoses are tight on the pipe good once and a while.
@@paulhaines5755 Thank you for that! It’s always the things we overlook! I’ll check them.. I did a full restoration in and out on these gti.. you wouldn’t know they are 97. Everything new in and out.. still a loose hose and it’s over … you are right. I installed automatic bilge pumps in both. Gold Boat US towing, and Standard Horizon HX 890 radios with MMSI registered with coastguard. Tow rope and anchor on both… and we always go in a group .. lol I don’t think it’s overkill when you’re in the middle of the ocean. lol i’m installing the ball valves tomorrow. They arrived. Thank you again for the videos you put up and for the info!
Wow sounds cool! Mine was pretty mint when I bought it and I store them in my shop plus baby them so they are really nice still. My Yamaha has a GPS on it so I know I've put about 1000 miles on each the past few years. The only mod my GTI has is I put a HawkEye depth finder in the dash hole that is blank. It's pretty neat to have on the lake I run on as it's deep and lots of structure and fast depth changes (Flathead Lake, MT).
man my 2002 Sea-Doo gti is kicking my ass am hopping you can help me a bit! Back story I purchased to skis about two weeks ago never owned any 0 knowledge might have done a few boo boos I those first days of owning them I scared the web and I can say I think Iliana know a lot more now but am still pulling my hair with this sky I can’t get it to start ! When I purchased I didn’t start so obviously it help me to knock the price down it had a low battery at that time and first mistake I use my jump box to starter and still nothing, then I got home and in the next few day I tried to start it with the jumper add starter fluid and it did start for minor periods. Second mistake I didn’t know at that time that I had to start sky then water. Then water off then sky! I was trying to start it with the hose on and then of I was all over the place. Then I learn the cycle and said oh oh 😕 then I decided to buy a new battery because I learn that jumping the unit could damage the computer . So battery came in installed it connected my hose water off cranked it and boom sky fired right up turned the water on and I felt the idle was having issues felt to low so I started reving it a bit it satayed on for about 40 seconds to a minute and all of asl sudden I hear this grinding noice and. Off it goes and I haven’t been able to start it since then I check compression is like 120 both I check spark I see spark I added fuel in the carb and nothing it just cranks and cranks I’m thinking I might damaged the computer with the jump box but it did start once with the new battery?? Am going to put a link to clip that I just took hope you can help thanks czcams.com/users/shortscibxirPk0Bk?si=tI30I1bY8n8in19-
Keep in mind my knowledge of this machine beyond what I show in my vids is fairly limited. I'm really not sure what to say but I'll offer a couple thoughts. Two strokes that are not running well foul plugs very VERY quickly especially if there is something "too much" in the crank that it's trying to burn off. I'd throw some new plugs in and try again. But before you put them in, crank it over good with the plugs out and see if anything comes flying out the holes. If you severely flooded it or the previous owner swamped it, there could be excessive gas or water in the crank case which will cause extreme hard or no start and immediately foul plugs. I think it's also possible to force water into the machine when it's not running and get it into the crank case via your hose hook-up There is a process for purging water that you will want to research if you do think the crank case has some in it or I can help - been there done it. I'd also look for damage to the output shaft and impeller to see if it's possible that something is locking up and creating the grinding noise. It might also be smart to run mixed gas in the tank until you get it to run in case there is an issue with the oil pump system. Make sure your dead man (DESS) is the correct one and it's seated properly. The wrong deadman will make it a no start. As for a bad ECU, yes it's possible but I'm not sure how you could test it. Likely you'd have to bring it to someone and have them test it for you.
Oh yea and don't forget you might just need to clean the cab 100%. It's also possible the pulse pump is not working or not primed/dry and you'll need to prime the lines upstream of the pulse pump to get it to pump fuel and build pressure in the fuel system properly. simply stuff first before you go assuming electrical...
@@paulhaines5755 thanks for the input! So I have taken the carb out and got the rotary valve uncovered is it normal for me to spin the crankshaft with my hand plugs out of course to not fight compression. So when I turn the crank freely my rotary valve shaft don’t turn and in some instances is catches up an starts turn along with the shaft ??
I honestly have never worked on a rotary valve. You should do some more research on youtube and see if someone has a vid on replacing it or inspecting, etc. My first instinct is that it should not be intermitantly moving but I can't say for certain.
Ok I watched a couple vids as I was interested in learning about this. It's likely you have a worn /damaged gear surface on your rotary valve. Watch a vid called "how to set your sea-doo rotary valve timing" for starters. It's a good one. Paul
These engines have rotary valves. This is a metal on metal rotational design. I like to use FULL synthetic quicksilver to prevent premature wear of the rotary valve system.
Hey Brother, I was wondering if you would be willing to work on my 1997 Sea-Doo GTI, the white double wall pipe on top will not stay bolted on and I can't seem to figure it out as well as a starting issue that takes me a while to start it. I bought a new battery but the problem persists. Just got a new starter relay & starter to see if that will help that issue. But the other upper manifold issue is the biggest concern at the moment :/
I'm not 100% sure of what exhaust part you are talking about but if I had to guess I'd say your threads are stripped or loose/damaged. It's likely you'll have to drill and tap and install "heli-coils" to repair the threads. If you don't know how to do that you might consider getting help as it's a good way to ruin stuff if you don't do it right the first time. What do you mean by starting issue? Does it not turn over at all sometimes or is it just hard to start?
One thing to try: If you look at my vid at 3:11 you will see two larger wires. One red and one black. Both have a collar nut that holds the ends one in the area you see in the pic. Unscrew these, apply some dielectric grease, then reinstall being very careful not to strip the threads. They are soft. If you are getting intermitant starts, this could be your culprit. Also, make sure the battery leads are clean and attached well.
Hmmm - could mean a lot of things. Really the only reason the pressure zone could be bad is if you have blockage in one of the holes in the box or a badly damaged wear ring/blades. My guess is that water is taking the easiest route out of the machine when you rev it up. The tee going to the tell tale could be the culprit. I don't understand why the tell-tale on these machines don't work better - poor design. Watch my vid on "how to improve your tell-tale". It might offer some tips. Some guys don't like what I did in that vid but take it or leave it. I like to know if water is moving and I like to see a good stream from the tell-tale.
I'm guessing 2005 is a lot different than 1997 so I might not be of much help to you, really. Might even be a 4-stroke engine in yours? On mine, the hose under the manifold goes back and dumps water into the exhaust near the back. About half-way down this hose, there is a T. This T leads to the tell-tale on the rear of the machine.
@@paulhaines5755 Thank you very much for answering, I already found it, it goes to the back but not to the exhaust. Your video helped me. a lot. Thank you
Rear of machine, above jet pump, left side there is a tube coming out. In my video, you will see this tube at 2:00 the for some time after that in the upper left of the vid. My machine has a green fitting on it. Yours may or may not. You'll have to hook a water hose with a simple garden hose shut-off valve to this pipe so it might require you to do a little research and find the correct adapter to screw onto the pipe on your machine. Once you get this all done, start engine first. Quickly turn water pressure on into the pipe I just described. Let it run as long as you need then shut off the water supply. Next rev the engine two or three times to blow the water out. Shut off machine. Don't run it for too long with to water supply. It is important to have the machine running when water pressure is hooked up to it or you will flood your engine with water = not a good thing to do.
@paul haines question I have a jetski like this almost same model in between the spark plugs what is that hose that’s attached to the top of the block. Mine fell off broke wondering if it’s big deal ? I appreciate it for your time thank u hopefully u can get back to me
I think you are looking at the temp sensor and wires. If the engine overheats, this temp sensor will put the machine into a limp mode so you don't damage it anymore. You need to fix that.
It will run without it but if you overheat you might not know it and you'll cause damage to the engine. When you overheat these machines, in addition to possibly damaging the engine, you can burn exhaust hoses and things that are difficult if not impossible to replace as it's an old machine and parts are not available so you really want to fix that soon. Easy fix.
Hi Paul, i have a 1993 seadoo xp that is apparently clogged. It shut down, got the overheating beep when trying to start it. So i let it cool down, started it out of water and plugged the hose in but no water is coming out the pee valve. Where would you start? There is a slight difference with this video which is the pee valve line starts straight off the head.
Hi, Nicolas. I'm sorry for the delayed response! I have not looked at this stuff for a few days. Did you figure it out? If not, I have another video that I did called "Sea-Doo GTI - How to Troubleshoot Overheating". Maybe that will help you.
Seems like a real trick to me although I bet someone out there has figured it out. The cooling system in these is not closed loop so you'd have to capture coolant off the exhaust somehow at the point where it usually gets dumped out the exhaust in the rear = soot and stuff getting in the engine cooling system. If you loop it before the exhaust in the rear, you will have issues with exhaust parts getting too hot and melting. Maybe if you had all metal exhaust parts and you loop the cooing just for the engine. You'd need a water pump and prob. electric fans on your radiator.
@@paulhaines5755 I hear you, but it is a 2 stroke. And air cooled 2 strokes don't need any coolant or water to cool the exhaust. Yeah, I figured I need a radiat for sure. Just asking. thanks
Can you replace the part that drains the water from the back (where you connect the hose to) When removing the hose the piece on the back broke off. We have a 1998 Seadoo GTI. Not sure what the piece is called and if you can replace it. We have called around but no one will work on seadoos this old.
The challenges of old stuff! It's all I own so I'm used to it!!! You can replace it. It's part # 271000575. It's called "support pump GTI". You'll have to hit 'er up on e-bay. Looks like there is a few out there. Look it up and look at the pic and make sure I'm right. I've spent a small fortune on e-bay for stuff like this!!! Non-existent new. Orrrrr If you know someone handy with some machinist abilities, give them the support plate and they could fix it up I'm sure. That's what I'd do but I have access to all sorts of toolery. If there is enough sticking out from where it broke off, you might be able to splice a new piece of threaded pipe on there with some bad-ass glue and a union joint. Beware the four bolts on the rear of these things like to strip out. Bolts are much softer than the nuts and the nuts will take a ride on the threads and strip it out so badly you have to cut them off or get a giant wrench and break them off. Been there done that. If one does strip out, go get yourself some stainless steel bolts and nuts and go thru the hull. Use good sealer - RTV, etc. Been there done it as well... Also, there might be a gasket in there behind the support plate. I don't recall. Obviously, make sure it's all sealed up good. Not a tough job. Maybe stick a new wear ring in there while it's all tore down. Hope this helps.
Oh yea - one more thing. You'll have to juggle the linkages that go thru the plate, too. If you have to disassemble anything to fish them out/thru, make sure you measure and mark them the best you can so it goes back together pretty much the same or else your steering will be crooked. It's been a while since I did this job so it's kinda fuzzy in my memory. Hope I have offered some good non-misleading info!
My opinion: It's NOT likely the water cooling system components I've shown in this video are the cause of water in your cylinders. It's true these systems are bringing water to the engine but not the cause of allowing water into the cylinder or crank case. It's more likely you have a bad gasket on the top of the motor (head gasket) or the exhaust manifold gasket is leaking.
@@paulhaines5755 ok I get that but where is the source of water? The hual only has an inch of water in the bottom no way its splashing in thru the gasket
@@kwadlife4106 You are correct. The water in the bottom is likely not the problem if it's well below the engine. If it gets too deep, I suppose it could leak in thru a bad crank seal but not likely especially if you don't see 2-cycle oil in the bottom of your hull + that's a lot of water to get there! The water in the cooling system is likely leaking into your cylinder(s) somewhere. The two most obvious places are the head gasket and the exhaust manifold gasket. I'm not sure how to explain it. I've had these motors torn down so I kinda know how this could happen. Maybe if you looked at illustrated parts diagram it would help you? Also remember I'm no ace wave runner mechanic and could lead you down the wrong path. I enjoy helping but can't be sure of the problem without tearing into it. If you're not sure what to do, I'd take it in and have someone diagnose if you can.
@@kwadlife4106 I guess think of it this way: There are ports for water running all around the cylinders. On the sides, on the top, etc. Anywhere something bolts to the cylinder (exhaust manifold, head) there is a gasket. If that gasket gets a crack or something in it, it allows water to enter the cyclinder(s). Hope this helps you more.
Glad I found you. I have 3 of these older machines....boy are they fun!
Thank you for this video. I don't know what the guy was thinking before me, but this straightened it out.
Absolutely excellent! Thank you for taking your time and explaining that.
Thanks! I'm no pro and probably got some stuff wrong but maybe that's why it's easier to understand. The view of the everyday backyard mechanic wanna-be.
@@paulhaines5755 the internets brilliance isn't cat videos, its the how to's from people that take the time to show others what they know. Much appreciated.
@@brinjoness3386 Thank you! I do my best. It might not be 100% accurate but I try... Hope it helps you.
Came here for one issue, discovered I may have another. Had no idea a weak stream wasn’t just a sign of old age “issues” in guys… 😂. Oh well… another day with my head wedged in the belly of my ‘97 GTI.
There's water running all around the cylinders below the head, too. There are ports directing the flow from the water jacket (up on top of the engine) to the sides of the cylinders as well as the exhaust manifold. Sorry forgot that BIG detail in my vid. I guess I got stuck in showing what you can actually see!
Paul I know this is an old video but I came across it because of issues with my 97 gti. I'm getting water into my cylinders and fouling my plugs.. would it be safe to say that my o rings in the top cover are bad and need changing
I have not had that issue. I would guess that the first thing you should do is pull the water jacket and the cylinder head off the cylinders and replace the gaskets. Check both metal parts for holes or cracks. Find and follow torque specs and find out if you need to use thread sealant, etc. You will need a manual for this information. Worst case possibility is maybe there is something wrong with the jacket around the cylinders or the exhaust port. I'm not sure what to do to find this problem but I'd do some research on a leak down test. Positive pressure in the cylinders might show you if you have a pin hole somewhere. Keep in mind I'm not a pro tech so these are just my ideas for you...
Extremely well presented. Thanks.
Thank you! Hope it helps...
@@paulhaines5755hi Paul - tried starting my ski up, hooked water up to the flush valve and water starting coming out of a hole in the top of the exhaust manifold and started to flood the inside of the engine bay..
Hmmm - this should be a sealed system. The largest round exhaust pipe has a plug almost on the top of it. This plug I think is from the metal casting process but I'm not sure. It has a tendency to leak on these machines so maybe you need to seal that up with RTV or something. Without seeing a pic or knowing the exact location of your leak I can't say what your issue is.
Great video! Thank you for the simple walk through explanation. There are so many engine and carb videos but none of them helped me understand the cooling system. Thank you from Niagara Falls Canada
Thanks! I hope it helps you.
Thanks so much for making this, i recently blew up my used jetski due to previous owners cooling sytem routing. I am currently rebuilding the unit.
Cool - hope this helps you and I hope it makes sense! I don't know if I explain stuff well but I try... Also, the toughest part for me to find was the exhaust hose on the larger end of the exhaust cone. Mine was burned and bubbled. Go to McMaster-Carr online and you'll find the material you need.
Very good video Paul.looking forward to seeing you other seadoo vids
Thanks for the Tune Up. Have not had one since new on market, now I have one Over Drinking age!
Yep old dogs! All my stuff is old... Not too much info out there so that's why I try to post vids when I think it might be useful.
@@paulhaines5755
Knowing is Always useful.
Now I am bypassing VTS never used it, why spend More Time or cash.
Making it manually adjustable just in case for a few moments time and zero $
This video is amazing! Nice job presenting first principles on how it works.
Thank you! Hope it helps you.
2023 update- thank you!
Ha! Got the exact same seadoo! Great machine and thanks for making this video! Really informative! 👍
Hello, good afternoon, I have the hose that goes from the front on the right side where it should drain loose water inside the Jet Ski. A few days ago when I went to the lake I didn't realize it and the entire Jet Ski filled with water inside. Please if you could help me tell me where that hose goes at the other end.
Hello nice video , if was getting towed the main water line you showed starting the black line in from the pump to the top of the head is the one i should kink when being towed ? Thanks
Yes. Seadoo makes a clamp for this or you can get creative and use a squeeze clamp or something like that.
This is the best video I've seen that explains a Sea-Doo cooling system. Thanks for making it. I've been trying to completely understand it's inner workings so I can properly winterize mine. Just to be clear, there is no thermostat that needs to open up in order to get antifreeze into all areas of the system? Everything looks like it's just free flowing at all times..... I was planning on connecting a line with antifreeze to the intake on the top of the motor, turn it on and let it run through. Is there any reason why you would advise against this method? How many gallons of antifreeze would you recommend putting through the system to be sure the water has been removed? I was thinking 2 would probably do.
Thank you! I'm a mechanical engineer so I explain stuff probably too detailed at times. My wife thinks so! Do you have a manual? Sea doo manual for this 717 recommends removing the inlet and outlet hose from the rear of the hull as well as the clear line that goes to the exhaust in the back. You zip tie them above the engine and poor about 1/2 qt antifreeze into the inlet hose. Do I like this? Not really. Be aware that it is possible to over-fill it when it's not running and get antifreeze in the cylinders (or so I presume). I think you are better off doing what you want to do however, I have found it doesn't work that great without pressure - I have tried. I actually pump antifreeze into mine using an RV pump in a bucket while machine is running. 2 gallons is way more than sufficient. Pressure is something like house pressure with my set-up. Thermostat - no I don't believe there is one on these. If you go with Sea Doo's recommendation, I most certainly would fire it up and make sure all the water is blown out of the exhaust before you dump anti-freeze into it ( a good practice when you pull it out of the water no matter). I would think if you're getting antifreeze out of the exhaust on the rear when it's running you are good to go. Hope this helps.
@@paulhaines5755 There was no manual. Thanks for the help.
I don't know. I really can't say for sure. Might be something you need to experiment with. You'd prob need some temp sensors on the engine to know if it's operating at the heat range it would normally operate at in the Seadoo. Sorry, Paul.
I suppose I should ask - is this for an engine mod to use it in something on land or are you talking about winterizing your machine?
Oh - you're in luck. I have a manual for this machine and I have done a video on how to winterize. It's tells step by step how to winterize it. I did it per the manual last year and had no issues. Check out my other videos on my channel and you will see the vid you want. Paul
Great video, I have a Sea Doo GTX RFI (1999). I have had a cooling issue since I got it the high temp alarm goes off after about .5 miles of riding. It cools down quickly at idle.
I watched your cooling testing video and cannot find any obstructions. Neighbor is a jet ski guy and told me the flush valve on back where hose connect should be closed while running and it has been bothering me. Just watched this one and you don’t have a valve so it’s always open! Is this the same with the GTX as would make perfect sense as to why it gets hot! The flush port stays open while running…?
Hmm - I guess I've never thought about it. The flush port on mine has always been open and I have no issues running that way. I would suggest watching one of my other vids: "Sea-Doo GTI - How to Troubleshoot Overheating". In this vid, you will see a problem I had with some o-rings/flanges in the jet housing. Mine was doing the same as yours. Overheats after five minutes. I found a problem that could very easily overlooked. I describe the parts that were causing the issue at about the 8 minute mark. Easy fix. Good luck!
@@paulhaines5755 I will check it out, going to run mine today and see if I get lucky it only has 100hrs on it. The big line coming off cylinder head goes to the flush port and is teed off to a small line going to exhaust, If only 1/3 of the water is getting out then prob should overheat. I was worried about dumping to much water and no cooling going to the exhaust. Will see, thanks again.
@@paulhaines5755 Hey Paul, lucky me after hours and hours of trying to find the issue online and with my head stuck in the ski that’s exactly what it was. Only issue is the tell tale doesn’t have any water coming out at idle, I can turn the flush valve down about 1/4 a turn and it does but either way it shows after 1/3 throttle. I assume the water box is so restricted all that water cannot escape fast enough. Just glad I didn’t blow a hose or head gasket. I was worried that opening it could over heat the water box/exhaust or would have tried before I spent another 5hrs trying things. Alas your video showed me when yours didn’t have a quick connect flush port. Ski runs strong only has 103hrs on it and looks like it’s 3 y old it’s in amazing condition. Doesn’t see to be many older skis for sale let alone in this condition. Wife and kid don’t seem interested so probably going to put up for sale, any idea what this ski is worth? It’s a 1999 sea doo GTX RFI with barely a scratch on the hull and you could eat off the engine. Fresh water used ski until the last 2 hours. $3500 maybe?? Thanks again for your help, quick response and great videos!
Glad it worked! Such an easy thing to miss. I'm an engineer so I look at all the details really close and often find just a minor thing as I'm almost detailed to a fault! I don't know about value. Depends where you live I guess. $3500 seems a great place to start. As for tell-tale, watch my video about increasing your sea-doo tell tale stream on my channel. Mine had a almost zero stream at idle until I did the fix you will see in my vid. Ten minute fix.
The vid you want to watch is called "Sea Doo GTI - Fix Your Tell Tale"
What about the sides ? Please explain I see to nozels on the right side that spits water where does it go connected
Hmmm - I'm not sure what nozzles you are talking about. Can you be more specific? Thanks, Paul
How hot should the water be circling the head?
I'm not sure what healthy temp should be.
I have no water coming out of the exhaust manifold on the little hose. The little hose feeding it does have water come in but no water coming out the piss hole. What could it be? Where do I start? I have a 96 GTX
Jerry, I have another video title "Seadoo GTI - how to troubleshoot overheating". That might help you more than this video. Watch it and see... thanks! Paul
Nice video thanks. Im trying to connect a shut off valve for when the jetski is getting towed for some reason so the water wont flood into the engine or exhaust. But i dont know where to connect it to in this 717 motor. No videos out there right now of it. Can you make a video for me please.
Hmmm - not sure I have the time for a vid right now. Here's my opinion on this. Again remember I'm no pro-tech guy but I work on a lot of stuff so have some good insight I'd like to think. The hose you need to block off comes in through the rear of the machine on the left side near the bottom drive system hump. It then goes into the top of the engine on the left side where there is an arrow showing the "in" direction of water flow. (Refer to 2:32 thru 2:42) of my vid. This is the hose you need to block off. However, I'd caution against an in-line valve. It is likely you will restrict/change water flow even when it is fully open. I'm sure guys out there do it like you want to do it but there is no doubt you will affect water flow rate doing this unless the inside diameter of the valve block is the same as the I.D. of the hose. I'd just get one of those hose clamps that sea-doo makes for these machine and clamp it on there when you want to tow it. 529032500 is one part number for one. Spendy from Sea-Doo but I bet companies like SBT sell cheap ones. Pretty fail safe thing, , really.
@@paulhaines5755 thank you i did order one pair of those hose pincher last night just to have in the jetski. Also you are correct in the flow rate, which im planning to replace all the lines in there with a all see through fuel, oil, water and air line. Then get the full flow shut off valve to connect it. Thank you
Awesome! Sounds like you got er dialed... As a side note, if you ever have trouble with flow from the jet pump check the o-rings from the pump housing to the hull. My other vid on how to troubleshoot these goes into that issue in detail. It's a small problem that could be hard to figure out if you have issues.
@@paulhaines5755 thank youbi will check it out and save it for future use. 👍👊
Any explanation of why you must start the machine before flushing. Cant understand why its so important
Remember I'm no pro but here's how I think about that - at some point in the system after the double wall pipe exhaust enters the system and is mixed with water. What does this mean? There is a path for water to get back into the exhaust ports and back into the engine. Without positive pressure (exhaust in this case) water could potentially make it back into the engine when you have a hose hooked up and pressurized = not such a good thing. That is also why you don't want to tow these in the water without clamping the cooling system inlet hose. (Slow towing is O.K. without clamping)..
Idk if they differ from ski to ski but the tail tell line on mine is directly attatched to the top nipple on the pipe. It doesnt dump back into the exhaust
Yea, maybe so! Thanks for the input... Paul
How much water is in the water box? Should the water box be filled all the way to the top and thus the inlet exhaust pipe or should the water only be up to the base of the exhaust inlet pipe?
When running or floating? Not sure what you mean. When running all should be full. When sitting the water level will match the depth/waterline that your machine sits at in the water.
@@paulhaines5755 , I didnt know there would have been a difference. Mine is sitting on my trailer and has no water in it. I checked it while it was on the water and it still had no water. I am thinking about manually filling it with a hose...
Do you also know how much water should be flowing directly into the exhaust fumes, I pulled my small pipe off and only dribbles of water was flowing in... Wondering if thats why my water box is empty, cause there isn't enough water flowing into it? Thanks for your help!
The small hose going to the exhaust from the tell-tale hose route might only have a small amount of water going into the exhaust. Depends on RPM"s. Some water goes to tell-tale, some goes to exhaust in the Y prior to the exhaust. The larger hose from the box should have a significant amount of water moving through it depending on RPM's or the water source you have it hooked to. I can't tell you more detail on water level. I don't know for sure. When mine is hooked up to flush hose, it sprays a significant amount of water out of the exhaust.
So can you confirm please! I have a 1997 seadoo gti. To add a tow tap I install the ball valve onto the black intake hose closest to the center. The main black hose from which the water enters from the three holes in the pressure box you referred to correct?
Yes - its the hose port side that enters the top, rear of the engine left side/port side. I have not used a ball valve - a hose/pinch clamp is recommended but I don't know much about it. Thanks, Paul
@@paulhaines5755 perfect thank you! Ran to Catalina Island today with a few guys on skis and was worried about the what if.. thank you!
Catalina Wine Mixer! Nice... The only time I have had to tow my GTI was when it blew one of the hose couplers on the exhaust cone. It happened at full throttle. A friend of mine was riding it and didn't think to stop and see why is was basically sinking until it wouldn't run anymore. The hull was full of water and it was half floating. Had to tow it a few miles. The engine took on water and I had to blow out the crank and do all that fun stuff to get it dried out and running again. I'd definately recommend checking to see that the two rubber exhaust hoses are tight on the pipe good once and a while.
@@paulhaines5755 Thank you for that! It’s always the things we overlook! I’ll check them.. I did a full restoration in and out on these gti.. you wouldn’t know they are 97. Everything new in and out.. still a loose hose and it’s over … you are right. I installed automatic bilge pumps in both. Gold Boat US towing, and Standard Horizon HX 890 radios with MMSI registered with coastguard. Tow rope and anchor on both… and we always go in a group .. lol I don’t think it’s overkill when you’re in the middle of the ocean. lol i’m installing the ball valves tomorrow. They arrived. Thank you again for the videos you put up and for the info!
Wow sounds cool! Mine was pretty mint when I bought it and I store them in my shop plus baby them so they are really nice still. My Yamaha has a GPS on it so I know I've put about 1000 miles on each the past few years. The only mod my GTI has is I put a HawkEye depth finder in the dash hole that is blank. It's pretty neat to have on the lake I run on as it's deep and lots of structure and fast depth changes (Flathead Lake, MT).
gracias good job
Thank you. Hope it helps you.
Very helpful, thanks
Thank You.
Hi Paul,
I need some help . Could you please send send me your phone number to contact you.
Thank you
@@Hodyfa Type it up here in the comments. I'll see if I can help you here. Thanks! Paul
man my 2002 Sea-Doo gti is kicking my ass am hopping you can help me a bit! Back story I purchased to skis about two weeks ago never owned any 0 knowledge might have done a few boo boos I those first days of owning them I scared the web and I can say I think Iliana know a lot more now but am still pulling my hair with this sky I can’t get it to start ! When I purchased I didn’t start so obviously it help me to knock the price down it had a low battery at that time and first mistake I use my jump box to starter and still nothing, then I got home and in the next few day I tried to start it with the jumper add starter fluid and it did start for minor periods. Second mistake I didn’t know at that time that I had to start sky then water. Then water off then sky! I was trying to start it with the hose on and then of I was all over the place. Then I learn the cycle and said oh oh 😕 then I decided to buy a new battery because I learn that jumping the unit could damage the computer . So battery came in installed it connected my hose water off cranked it and boom sky fired right up turned the water on and I felt the idle was having issues felt to low so I started reving it a bit it satayed on for about 40 seconds to a minute and all of asl sudden I hear this grinding noice and. Off it goes and I haven’t been able to start it since then I check compression is like 120 both I check spark I see spark I added fuel in the carb and nothing it just cranks and cranks I’m thinking I might damaged the computer with the jump box but it did start once with the new battery?? Am going to put a link to clip that I just took hope you can help thanks czcams.com/users/shortscibxirPk0Bk?si=tI30I1bY8n8in19-
Keep in mind my knowledge of this machine beyond what I show in my vids is fairly limited. I'm really not sure what to say but I'll offer a couple thoughts. Two strokes that are not running well foul plugs very VERY quickly especially if there is something "too much" in the crank that it's trying to burn off. I'd throw some new plugs in and try again. But before you put them in, crank it over good with the plugs out and see if anything comes flying out the holes. If you severely flooded it or the previous owner swamped it, there could be excessive gas or water in the crank case which will cause extreme hard or no start and immediately foul plugs. I think it's also possible to force water into the machine when it's not running and get it into the crank case via your hose hook-up There is a process for purging water that you will want to research if you do think the crank case has some in it or I can help - been there done it. I'd also look for damage to the output shaft and impeller to see if it's possible that something is locking up and creating the grinding noise. It might also be smart to run mixed gas in the tank until you get it to run in case there is an issue with the oil pump system. Make sure your dead man (DESS) is the correct one and it's seated properly. The wrong deadman will make it a no start. As for a bad ECU, yes it's possible but I'm not sure how you could test it. Likely you'd have to bring it to someone and have them test it for you.
Oh yea and don't forget you might just need to clean the cab 100%. It's also possible the pulse pump is not working or not primed/dry and you'll need to prime the lines upstream of the pulse pump to get it to pump fuel and build pressure in the fuel system properly. simply stuff first before you go assuming electrical...
@@paulhaines5755 thanks for the input! So I have taken the carb out and got the rotary valve uncovered is it normal for me to spin the crankshaft with my hand plugs out of course to not fight compression. So when I turn the crank freely my rotary valve shaft don’t turn and in some instances is catches up an starts turn along with the shaft ??
I honestly have never worked on a rotary valve. You should do some more research on youtube and see if someone has a vid on replacing it or inspecting, etc. My first instinct is that it should not be intermitantly moving but I can't say for certain.
Ok I watched a couple vids as I was interested in learning about this. It's likely you have a worn /damaged gear surface on your rotary valve. Watch a vid called "how to set your sea-doo rotary valve timing" for starters. It's a good one. Paul
this is the rotax type 717?
yes
i just got a 97 717 Gsi what oil you reccomend? lol
These engines have rotary valves. This is a metal on metal rotational design. I like to use FULL synthetic quicksilver to prevent premature wear of the rotary valve system.
Hey Brother, I was wondering if you would be willing to work on my 1997 Sea-Doo GTI, the white double wall pipe on top will not stay bolted on and I can't seem to figure it out as well as a starting issue that takes me a while to start it. I bought a new battery but the problem persists. Just got a new starter relay & starter to see if that will help that issue. But the other upper manifold issue is the biggest concern at the moment :/
I'm not 100% sure of what exhaust part you are talking about but if I had to guess I'd say your threads are stripped or loose/damaged. It's likely you'll have to drill and tap and install "heli-coils" to repair the threads. If you don't know how to do that you might consider getting help as it's a good way to ruin stuff if you don't do it right the first time. What do you mean by starting issue? Does it not turn over at all sometimes or is it just hard to start?
One thing to try: If you look at my vid at 3:11 you will see two larger wires. One red and one black. Both have a collar nut that holds the ends one in the area you see in the pic. Unscrew these, apply some dielectric grease, then reinstall being very careful not to strip the threads. They are soft. If you are getting intermitant starts, this could be your culprit. Also, make sure the battery leads are clean and attached well.
So in theory if you had water pushing through your tell tale when on land but not in water does that mean the pressure zone is bad?
Hmmm - could mean a lot of things. Really the only reason the pressure zone could be bad is if you have blockage in one of the holes in the box or a badly damaged wear ring/blades. My guess is that water is taking the easiest route out of the machine when you rev it up. The tee going to the tell tale could be the culprit. I don't understand why the tell-tale on these machines don't work better - poor design. Watch my vid on "how to improve your tell-tale". It might offer some tips. Some guys don't like what I did in that vid but take it or leave it. I like to know if water is moving and I like to see a good stream from the tell-tale.
hi PAUL.....pls can you make a vedio of the full feul sestem olso...where all the pips go ..pls...singel carb...thx...Shouth Africa...
I did one on fuel lines called "Sea-Doo Fuel Line Replacement and Function Description". Hope it helps you. Thanks! Paul
Great video ! Question, where does the hose from the exhaust manifold go? 2005 Sea Doo GTI
I'm guessing 2005 is a lot different than 1997 so I might not be of much help to you, really. Might even be a 4-stroke engine in yours? On mine, the hose under the manifold goes back and dumps water into the exhaust near the back. About half-way down this hose, there is a T. This T leads to the tell-tale on the rear of the machine.
@@paulhaines5755 Thank you very much for answering, I already found it, it goes to the back but not to the exhaust.
Your video helped me. a lot.
Thank you
Which hose do I hook my garden hose to for running the machine out of the water
Rear of machine, above jet pump, left side there is a tube coming out. In my video, you will see this tube at 2:00 the for some time after that in the upper left of the vid. My machine has a green fitting on it. Yours may or may not. You'll have to hook a water hose with a simple garden hose shut-off valve to this pipe so it might require you to do a little research and find the correct adapter to screw onto the pipe on your machine. Once you get this all done, start engine first. Quickly turn water pressure on into the pipe I just described. Let it run as long as you need then shut off the water supply. Next rev the engine two or three times to blow the water out. Shut off machine. Don't run it for too long with to water supply. It is important to have the machine running when water pressure is hooked up to it or you will flood your engine with water = not a good thing to do.
@paul haines question I have a jetski like this almost same model in between the spark plugs what is that hose that’s attached to the top of the block. Mine fell off broke wondering if it’s big deal ? I appreciate it for your time thank u hopefully u can get back to me
I think you are looking at the temp sensor and wires. If the engine overheats, this temp sensor will put the machine into a limp mode so you don't damage it anymore. You need to fix that.
@@paulhaines5755 okay but if I run without the jetski won’t get by it unless it overheats? And I really appreciate you answering me
It will run without it but if you overheat you might not know it and you'll cause damage to the engine. When you overheat these machines, in addition to possibly damaging the engine, you can burn exhaust hoses and things that are difficult if not impossible to replace as it's an old machine and parts are not available so you really want to fix that soon. Easy fix.
Hi Paul, i have a 1993 seadoo xp that is apparently clogged. It shut down, got the overheating beep when trying to start it. So i let it cool down, started it out of water and plugged the hose in but no water is coming out the pee valve. Where would you start? There is a slight difference with this video which is the pee valve line starts straight off the head.
Hi, Nicolas. I'm sorry for the delayed response! I have not looked at this stuff for a few days. Did you figure it out? If not, I have another video that I did called "Sea-Doo GTI - How to Troubleshoot Overheating". Maybe that will help you.
So could you use the engine for a project and use a radiator to cool the engine?
Seems like a real trick to me although I bet someone out there has figured it out. The cooling system in these is not closed loop so you'd have to capture coolant off the exhaust somehow at the point where it usually gets dumped out the exhaust in the rear = soot and stuff getting in the engine cooling system. If you loop it before the exhaust in the rear, you will have issues with exhaust parts getting too hot and melting. Maybe if you had all metal exhaust parts and you loop the cooing just for the engine. You'd need a water pump and prob. electric fans on your radiator.
@@paulhaines5755 I hear you, but it is a 2 stroke. And air cooled 2 strokes don't need any coolant or water to cool the exhaust. Yeah, I figured I need a radiat for sure. Just asking. thanks
Cool - yea would be an awesome go cart engine or something like that if you could make it work.
Would you happen to know where the temp sensor is on a 951?
Not sure. I have not worked on a 951. sorry. I'd go on-line and look at the parts schematics and see if you can get a good visual.
What about the little drain on the front right?
Not sure where - what time during the vid does it show it?
Can you replace the part that drains the water from the back (where you connect the hose to) When removing the hose the piece on the back broke off. We have a 1998 Seadoo GTI. Not sure what the piece is called and if you can replace it. We have called around but no one will work on seadoos this old.
The challenges of old stuff! It's all I own so I'm used to it!!! You can replace it. It's part # 271000575. It's called "support pump GTI". You'll have to hit 'er up on e-bay. Looks like there is a few out there. Look it up and look at the pic and make sure I'm right. I've spent a small fortune on e-bay for stuff like this!!! Non-existent new. Orrrrr If you know someone handy with some machinist abilities, give them the support plate and they could fix it up I'm sure. That's what I'd do but I have access to all sorts of toolery. If there is enough sticking out from where it broke off, you might be able to splice a new piece of threaded pipe on there with some bad-ass glue and a union joint. Beware the four bolts on the rear of these things like to strip out. Bolts are much softer than the nuts and the nuts will take a ride on the threads and strip it out so badly you have to cut them off or get a giant wrench and break them off. Been there done that. If one does strip out, go get yourself some stainless steel bolts and nuts and go thru the hull. Use good sealer - RTV, etc. Been there done it as well... Also, there might be a gasket in there behind the support plate. I don't recall. Obviously, make sure it's all sealed up good. Not a tough job. Maybe stick a new wear ring in there while it's all tore down. Hope this helps.
Oh yea - one more thing. You'll have to juggle the linkages that go thru the plate, too. If you have to disassemble anything to fish them out/thru, make sure you measure and mark them the best you can so it goes back together pretty much the same or else your steering will be crooked. It's been a while since I did this job so it's kinda fuzzy in my memory. Hope I have offered some good non-misleading info!
@@paulhaines5755 Thank you so much for the quick response and great information I appreciate your help!
Could this be a source of water to get in motor? My plugs are milky. 96 xp 787.
My opinion: It's NOT likely the water cooling system components I've shown in this video are the cause of water in your cylinders. It's true these systems are bringing water to the engine but not the cause of allowing water into the cylinder or crank case. It's more likely you have a bad gasket on the top of the motor (head gasket) or the exhaust manifold gasket is leaking.
@@paulhaines5755 ok I get that but where is the source of water? The hual only has an inch of water in the bottom no way its splashing in thru the gasket
@@kwadlife4106 You are correct. The water in the bottom is likely not the problem if it's well below the engine. If it gets too deep, I suppose it could leak in thru a bad crank seal but not likely especially if you don't see 2-cycle oil in the bottom of your hull + that's a lot of water to get there! The water in the cooling system is likely leaking into your cylinder(s) somewhere. The two most obvious places are the head gasket and the exhaust manifold gasket. I'm not sure how to explain it. I've had these motors torn down so I kinda know how this could happen. Maybe if you looked at illustrated parts diagram it would help you? Also remember I'm no ace wave runner mechanic and could lead you down the wrong path. I enjoy helping but can't be sure of the problem without tearing into it. If you're not sure what to do, I'd take it in and have someone diagnose if you can.
@@kwadlife4106 I guess think of it this way: There are ports for water running all around the cylinders. On the sides, on the top, etc. Anywhere something bolts to the cylinder (exhaust manifold, head) there is a gasket. If that gasket gets a crack or something in it, it allows water to enter the cyclinder(s). Hope this helps you more.