HS43 Making a tailstock 4 jaw fitting for my Harrison 140 lathe
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- čas přidán 10. 12. 2020
- In this vid I make a backplate with an MT3 fitting for my new 5in 4 jaw, to fit my tailstock. This will allow me to clamp work between two 4 jaws - to hold long irregular work especially if it has hollow ends. The finish on the work could be coaxial or eccentric. For example, the setup could be used to clean up a petrol pump eccentric on a camshaft with a toolpost grinder (if I had one - maybe another project in the future). #TAILSTOCK4JAW
I’m amazed that it rotates with that much interference. Great job, l like the 4Jaw idea vs 3J.
Hi Mr PC135a208V .... well yes many people have commented on that and I claim no prior expertise but trust me it runs smooth with just a bit of drag from the seals. I'm currently editing a vid showing the tailstock 4jaw in action. I've some other videos in the queue before that one but maybe in a couple of weeks .....
Great, you have interesting projects and very good camera work and editing. I like watching after I finish a day of machining parts. Weird, I know.
Well done I like what I see I can see doing this when I get mine back up running again.
Nice job. We used the rule of 0.0005- 0.001" per inch of Dia.
Ah that's a good guide. Thanks.
Amazing work love the detailed steps ❤
Hi Mo, I'm glad you liked it.
I am stealing this design. I have a Clausing 5914 which appears to be the same size as your lathe here. I have been needing one of these for some time now and never got around to making one. Really like the idea of using a front wheel bearing!! Very smart!
Hi, I think I said it was a bearing from a Ford Fiesta Mk1 but actually it was a Ford Focus Mk1. I was unsure whether to use a 4 inch or 5 inch chuck. I went for 5 inch and I'm happy with it, but it is quite heavy and the tailstock can tip forward when not clamped. If your bearing inner race has split cups (pushed in from each side) be sure to hold them tight together when you press in the shaft - or add a bolt on the end to clamp the two halves together if you have space. I've no idea when I will use it on a project but I'm sure I will be glad of it when the time comes. Cheers
Beautiful job you've done here. Thanks for the mention. I've subbed you. 👏🏻👍
Thanks David. I've watched quite a bit of your stuff. Might be a long time before I get to Inconel 718. :-)
There are a few things that need to be considered with carbide tips. There are usually 3 grades for any type with various chip breaker arrangements made for coarse, medium, or fine machining. The fine type has a very short distance between the cutting edge and the chip breaker and the others increasing distances. The edge "sharpness (geometry also changes across the range, but for home use, the choice should always be the finishing type unless you have a strong lathe and considerable courage. The second is that they expect much higher machining speeds than you are using, and the chips will come off blue to red without coolant. This speed affects the way the chip bends and work-hardens, changing the chip formation. I was machining a chunk of hardened steel this morning, part of a broker keyless chuck. Diameter about 50mm, rotation 1200 RPM, cut about 2mm deep 0,1mm per rev feed. The cut depth was limited by the chip temperature, they were Blue, but the machine could have gone much further. I have a Colchester Master that is considerably stiffer than the Harrison, so you may not be able to do quite the same but this is the kind of data from the manufacturers. Slow and low speed are really not the point of carbide, it is strength, thermal resistance, and hardness. You seem to be very cautious! I used to have a Colchester Mastiff (1000mm dia x 2m length between centres) 15 HP spindle motor. With carbide tools of the right size, this would cut at least 1 kg/minute from workpieces, and it had spindle speeds to 1500 RPM. For fine jobs, I would use HSS tools sometimes, as I could control the shape much better, but I almost always use interchangeable type carbide tips for most jobs now.
Hi David, thanks for your comments. Some months further on now and I'm probably still too cautious. The idea of cutting 1kg a minute just blows my mind, although I have seen it done. I've had in mind for a while to do some "what will it cut?" tests - I will get to it sometime and your advice gives me more confidence. Cheers
I made the same setup for my southbend lathe, just because! Nice job
Well that's the nice thing about hobbies when you can do stuff 'just because' .... cheers.
Harrison lathes are a good machine ! Seems like black magic when you get the chip breaker working right ! I use a tool holder I made myself for roughing which is angled about 15 degrees to the direction of cut and about .020" cut. Great tailstock chuck !
HI Darren, I'm always busy with projects in the workshop but don't do a lot of machining on difficult materials so it takes me a while to build up my knowledge and technique. But I am now 'on to' the trick of angling the tool to break the chips. Cheers
Nice build...on my list of shop projects
Thanks. Hopefully I will find a use for mine one day. Just enjoyed building it. I may add indexing holes. Cheers
Nicely done.
Thank you P Adams.
Great video and work Amigo!! Thank you for sharing. Subscribed!
Thank you.
Very nicely done! You've got a new subscriber
Thank you.
nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks. I just ordered a couple of those MT3 adapters. I was thinking about a Haxby/ Bommarito mashup 3 jaw. Should be fun.
Hi Mark, I got the idea from David Wilks (heavy trepanning) channel and then saw it again on CEE Australia. At first I had no firm need but soon enough I was using it for fun projects (I have a playlist on those). Some people got a bit concerned that I pressed the parts together without any snap rings or holding screws but honestly there is no chance of this thing falling off, and if you have ever pressed a van wheel bearing onto a hub you know it's as tight as heck. Nevertheless I might add a retaining centre screw and perhaps a back collar sometime if I'm short of something to do. Cheers
Very good information to show
Hi, thanks. I looked at your homemade channel. I liked the flywheel ring gear used for the rack gear on your lathe. Interesting how you heated and straightened it. Very creative.
Thanks for sharing 🙏
I enjoyed the video Sir, so I subbed!!!
Thank you.
Nice job.
Thank you Scott. Cheers
Nice addition to the shop, I'm making the same, but copied from CEE Australia you tuber.
Thanks for sharing.
HI, I looked at the CEE channel after your comment and I see the tailstock chucks in action. Cheers
This is also on my wish list.
Hi spixy, it's been a very useful tool. Some controversy over the type of bearings and how they are installed. I used the car wheel bearing because I had it already and to be honest it's been fine for my purposes. Cheers
I lucked out Paul at last Octobers 2022 auction sale. I picked up a Bison 6 in 3 jaw. A live chuck is a must have at times.
Bear I think I may have seen that video. You got some great deals there. Take care of yourself. Regards Paul
Nice Work. Thanks keep doing videos, please.
Thank you.
You must be a teacher....you know what to say....and what to do....very nice....keep teaching us your skills please....sincerely
Jon thanks. I'm not a teacher by profession and what I don't know I make up :-)
I think these rotating chucks for the tail stock are an excellent idea, a guy I watch here in Australia called cutting edge engineering swears by them for his heavy turning work…..this guy just made a 152kg boring bar for an upcoming job.
Hi Gordon, several people asked "when would you use it?" but there are some jobs it's essential for. I made a playlist of my tailstock 4-jaw videos. People think I saw it on CEE Australia but actually I got the idea from David Wilks in Sheffield UK. His channel is mostly about large bore trepanning. Awesome machines. Cheers
Good idea
Thank you.
good one
Thanks
Goor idea shed
I like the way you think. Which means you must be slightly crazy also.
Hi Dean, I certainly feel no pressure to follow convention. If it feels right to me I'll do it. Cheers
New to ya. Bell too. 65 yr old retired machinist/fabricator in logging here.
Well, you have a lot more experience than me then, thanks for watching.
@@HaxbyShed Stop by if you like. I am a pourer of fine silver and gold amongst other things. I do like what I have seen here.
Nice
Thanks mce62. Cheers
for stringy materials such as mild steel or like material, you might try an insert with a more free cutting edge+aggressive chip breaker. i have a few inserts like this and have had good luck with them, although they seem to be somewhat uncommon. i use the style you have (chip breaker) for chromoly and such.
Thanks. I did a year on machines as a young apprentice and I only came back to it as a hobby in 2019. The apprentice work was always with freecutting and I'm just beginning to experiment with alloys. I get poor finishes on non-freecutting mild steel and thought it was just me but I'm realising maybe it's just the nature of the material. I will read up on your advice and maybe try to find some. Cheers.
Great add to any lathe ! Did you get the idea from our friend in Australia, Kurtis at CGE ? Cheap carbide is just that. You will pay more in the long run for sure eh. Yup, I'm a Canadian.
Hi welcome to all Canada/Canadians. I got the idea from another UK channel called 'David Wilks' - he's based in South Yorkshire and posts a lot of stuff on quite heavy machining particularly trepanning large bar such as a 10 inch hole in bar 6 foot long in tough alloy steels etc. Just search on youtube for David Wilks. In one of his vids I saw a long irregular bar between 2 4-jaws so I set myself the challenge to make a mini version. Cheers.
OK you talked me into this project! I have the machinable MT3 blank but I bought a bigger wheel bearing than yours (it was cheap) which means I will have to make up an inner sleeve for the blank and probably weld it on and machine to size. I have an 8" chuck so the bigger bearing wont hurt.
@Frankish 🤣🤣 cheap is good. I hope you have a big tailstock because my 5in chuck is near the tipping point when I unlock the slide. It does not take much encouragement for the tailstock to tip forward. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed Thats a very good point! Its a 14*40 lathe so not that much bigger, I will check on how the tailstock is secured to see if tipping is a risk or not. My idea was to use the 8" chuck on both the head and the tail as required.. Might have to revisit this idea.
Yup your right.. the 8" chuck is too big! I have ordered a 5" and will keep the 8" for the headstock end.
Well I made up a sleeve to make the end of the MT3 bigger to match the inner race of my larger bearing. Had a nice 2 thou interference fit but unfortunately only used a 1/4inch plate on my press which deformed and pressed the parts in not straight. Oh well keep driving its almost home, which promptly bent the MT3 blank... Start again! I managed to save the sleeve, I will go for a slide fit as its already broached the hole too bit.. Then weld them together prior to final machining. Dumb mistake!
Fine job hope I can do as well 😊
I'm sure you will. Have fun.
Rule of thumb for chip breaking, feed up speed down.
Thank you. Would have come in handy yesterday when I was fighting another bird's-nest. I'll try it. Cheers.
Интересно очень.
Agree to scrapping the car, bearing much better. Guess, like you, like making things.
Hi Lawrence, it was a rubbish car yes. I will usually try with what I've got rather than buy new components. I set myself the challenge to do the job as cheap as I reasonably can, so long as it's good enough for my purposes. Cheers
Wow!
Very nice work!
What kind of bearings are in the headstock of your lathe? And do you know the year of your lathe?
Thank you for doing this video! :)
Hi Art, they are Timken taper bearings in the headstock and the year of my Harrison 140 lathe is 1971 as far as I can tell from the serial number. I enjoy making the videos - thanks for the thanks.
@@HaxbyShed you're more than welcome! Thanks for the extra info!
I appreciate each one of you who take the extra time and effort to make videos.
I love machining but it's a little late for me this time around. However, I can vicariously enjoy the artform through guys like you.
Thanks again! :)
Quick tip you can measure from the outside of one bolt head to the inside of the opposite one will give you the exact hole centres no maths required
Thank you D40. Cheers
Drill a series of holes in the periphery of the backing plate to make a Vernier dividing-head for PCD holes, using a cross-slide mounted drill?
Oh err, that's a good idea! I'll think about that. Many thanks.
Good job overall but next time try indexing your tool holders on the tool post such that you achieve a couple of degrees larger entry angle which will help with chip breaking
Hi Pontus, thank you. Been on my mind for a while, I need to spend an afternoon just trying different speeds and feeds and tool position angles - I still have not got around to that. Cheers
2.5 thou is way to mutch for a bearing fit . 0.02 mm is more than tight enough (0.0008 " ). It isn't running that well when you rotate it by hand . Bearing will soon brake if you put it under load. But the idea is very nice
Hi, thanks for the comment. The 2.5thou interference was between the MT3 shaft and the internal diameter of the inner race. A press-on fit is the only thing holding the chuck on the MT3 shaft. It does not spin freely because of drag on the seals each side of the bearing. But I take your point though, if the inner race expands due to a tight fit on the MT3 shaft then yes it would make the bearing too tight and it could run hot and fail. It might have been better if I had used your advice of 0.02mm press fit on the MT3 shaft and then put a bolt on the end to hold it all together. There was space for a bolt. (So in a lot of words I'm kind of agreeing with you actually). Cheers
I agree
@@HaxbyShed You might run the chuck for a while and monitor the bearing to see if it is getting excessively hot. Too much heat may give you a head's up on the fit being squeezed too tight
I CERTAINLY ! PREFER ! HAXBYS WAY !! TO YOUR !! WAY !! YOUR !! WAY !! WOULD BE !! TOO !! MUCH !! SLOP !!! ON !! IT !!
@@davidwillard7334 looks like you don't know s**t about this matter...
Thanks for the idea and the well thought out video . Could you please share your source for the soft ended MT3 adapter ?
Hi Bill, I bought that one from RDG Tools ltd, Unit 7/8, White Lee / Burnley Road, Mytholmroyd, West Yorkshire, HX7 5AD. Telephone: +44 (0) 1422 885069 They have a website and also on ebay. There are others a bit cheaper from other suppliers but that one had the larger diameter head I needed. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed Thanks for the reply
Hello Bill, I don't know where you are located, but if your in the states, McMaster-Carr has those adapters available.
I'm really surprised that you did not use liquid nitrogen to shrink the diameter of the shaft. Instead, you you chose basically brute force
to secure the shaft in the bearing. In my opinion that was a huge mistake. What you press in always requires a minimum of double the force to remove it.
Hi Gregg, all comments welcome. I started my hobby shop a couple of years ago and I'm learning all the time. I might do it differently now, at minimum either heating the outer or freezing the inner. Adjustable taper bearings would have been preferable. Some day I will perhaps put in a centre securing screw. But I would not want to "over apologise" for it because it works pretty well for my occasional use. Cheers
Tungsten inserts have different chip breakers on them, so perhaps it's not black magic but the wrong type of insert, chip breaker wise.
You can make inserting a bearing or shaft easier to manage by chilling one and heating the other, clearly don't heat a bearing, so put the shaft in a freezer for a couple of hours and it will probably fall in.
Hi, I understand about the chip breakers but I think it is mostly my lack of experience. Somebody commented to try feed up speed down so I will have a go at that next time. Cooling the shaft is another thing I need to try out. Cheers for the advice.
Ref Inserts, I only found out recently that, the depth of cut recommended is based on the insert radius, smaller R for lighter cuts, and also minimum depth should be larger than the nose radius. here is a link to the experts, Sandvik.www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-gb/knowledge/general-turning/pages/how-to-choose-correct-turning-insert.aspx. You can use single point threading inserts for fine cuts. Hope this helps?
Regards John.
You can heat a bearing we do it all the time . We use Magnetic Induction Bearing recommended by SKF - Big Bearing Company temp probe on inner race & no more then 280 degrees max it will expand enough to drop right on when spec's are right this works great for mounting bearing on a shaft & to go into a housing or casting we dry ice the bearing for an 1/2 - hour plus depends on how big the bearing is it has been working for us for the last 40 + years in are shop.
Some material just doesn't like to break a chip. Older manual machines just lack the torque and power to push the tool hard enough to break a chip as well as it would on a CNC. They do break a chip very well if your machine has enough power. Again though, some materials just are stubborn.
Hi Spooky, yes I agree but also I might have had more luck if I swivelled the tool over a bit so it was not at 90 to the work. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed ehh that usually doesn't make too much of a difference depending on the inserts
Very Nice done i Made also such a Chuck with to conical bearings and between the two bearings tree set screws to lock the Chuck than you can put drills taps and all kind of tooling in the Chuck and you can drill and so on you loose the set screws and is a turning center Nice done shed
Lol
S
Hi, conical bearing would have been better but I used what I had. I'm planning to drill 24 indexing holes around the rim of the backplate and that could also be a way to lock it. I have a 'demonstration project' in mind - I just need to get the right bit of metal stock first, probably after Covid lockdown. Cheers.
@@HaxbyShed God idea
Great Vid... Check out that Aussie YT're named Kurtis at "Cutting Edge Engineering" He does some amazing machining.
Hi Dave, I've watched quite a few Cutting Edge Engineering videos. It amazes me that Kurtis works entirely alone - I watched his Q&A recently. Oh, except for his wife who does the video and vid editing. A great channel. Cheers
Very good
What is the bearing Number?
Hi Magdy, the number on the bearing is PLB23532 06/25S and I think it was a front wheel bearing from a Ford Focus mark 1.
Nice job on this project....can you share with me the part number and where you purchased that MT3 stub shaft.....thanks.
Hi Eric, look on ebay for "RDGTOOLS 3MT SOFT STUB ARBOUR BLANK END 40MM X 40MM LATHE MILLING COLCHESTER" £12.95, or go to their website direct. Cheers
Eric, are you in the states, or in the UK ? An outfit called McMaster-Carr in the states has them, in all sizes. Good luck.
@@petermoale2116 Pete, I'm in the States, never thought of looking in McMaster for something like this, I use them for all sorts of other stuff for the shop so I'll have to check out what they have listed.....thanks for the heads up.
خیلی خیلی عالی بود🙏🙏🙏🙏💐
متشکرم (Google translate helped me)
Mr. Haxby, I want to make the same thing. I am getting into a "Sticky wicked", trying to locate that bearing you mentioned. I see a part number of : PLB, or is it PL823532 ? Would rather make 1 bore thru, instead of a bearing on each end, much easier in the long run. Can you tell me where you purchased it ? NO ONE here in the states, can seem to find "That one". Thanks so much.
Hi Peter, actually I have another bearing just the same and I will check the size next week and get back to you. But I should say I got a lot of stick for using a car wheel bearing ball race rather than adjustable tapered bearings, and also for pressing it in so tightly. You are very welcome to copy mine but I do not claim it is the best design (but I will say that it works fine for me 😁). Cheers Paul
Hi Peter, I can confirm that it is a rear wheel bearing from a Ford Focus Mk1. Inner 29mm, outer 53mm, width 37mm. I looked for some part numbers from the better manufacturers - FAG713678030, may be SKF 1085565 when it comes as a kit. Would not be more than £20 (25USD) here. Hope that helps. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed Hello Sir, and thank you for your reply message back. I had a bearing specialty house try to locate one, and they did. Rear Wheel Bearing 29X53X37 Febest DAC29530037 Oem D350-26-151B. It was listed on Amazon, and German made. What a break, as I (Really don't') trust bearings from across the Pacific. Total cost, 20 USD. Mine will be basically the same, except for using a #4 MT, and I must cut a 2 3/16-10 thread to fit a 4 J chuck, that has internal threads to fit a Harnige indexer chuck. I would like to cut the OD thread, then bore for the OD of the bearing, in one operation, instead of turning around, and loosing my concentricy. Having the chuck threads to the right, outside would be a good "Go-no go" thread checker. Thanks for your help !
@@petermoale2116 Thanks for the feedback Peter. Always happy to help. Cheers.
Perhaps I have missed something here. Why would you want to fit a 4 jaw chuck in the tailstock? I have been machining for over 40 years and never needed to do this. I am hoping to learn something new today!
I picked the idea up from some heavy machining videos where an awkward shape, perhaps with no centre, was held between two 4 jaw chucks. It can also be used for eccentric turning. But also my motivation was it was a nice project. I may never need it - I just wanted to do it as an addition to my equipment. But my experience is that when you have something eventually it gets used. Cheers
I too wondering why one would want a 4 jaw live center. I have been matching for over fifty years and never had a need for this setup
@@donmazurick1821 Hi Don, I have an idea for a project. Maybe after Covid lockdown I can find the metal and make the video showing a use for the tailstock 4-jaw. Cheers
Crankshafts and cams.
@@donmazurick1821 Don, Mr. Haxby is correct. I have a conveyor roller, and the shaft end was damaged by the bearing retainer lock collar that was not tight. COMPLETELY damaged the stub end. Not only does a 2.50" bearing fit on the shaft, a drive pulley mounts next to the bearing too. Naturally, the manufacture did NOT put a center on that damaged end. I put one in, deep, just to mow off weld build up (and there was a LOT of weld build up !). Now, how do you get BOTH diameters exactly in line, without a 4 Jaw chuck on the tail stock side ? Waiting for the bearing, and must build the "Custom Service Tool" before I can finish the job.
Who says you can't use the cheap inserts? - I carry +/- .0005 every day in .624 OD and a 1.001 Counter Bore 3 days a week. - Maybe it;s the Lathe. = I use an old Causing and not a ChiCom lathe.
Sandvic Huh? The chigchong TCMTs I use break the chips just fine....And THEY chip just fine too! One slip and they are gone. I'm partial to Kenametal I can get a box of ChiCom Mitsis for the price of 1 Kenny. - But as far as finish and anything else there is nothing wrong with the Mits. - Don;t be a cork Sniffer, Bro.
Hi, thanks for the comment and the advice. I'm just a learner and it's probably my inexperience but I thought the sandvik was working better for me in that case. I had to look up 'Cork Sniffer', I'd not heard that before and it made me smile. Yes there are a lot of urban myths and people do recycle bad info, not having the experience themselves. maybe I'm guilty :-) Cheers.
Did that "Orange" steel actually come from Parker Steel ? Not all steel stockists use the same colour coding. I've got a chart that shows orange as EN36B...
Well in fact no. I bought a job lot of steel offcuts on ebay and the seller promised to send me the colour chart but despite twice asking he never did. I since got a 2nd colour chart from another stockist and there is a high degree of correspondence on the grades/colours but Orange does not appear at all on that one so really I can't be sure what it now. Cheers.
I realize this may be an older post, I'm curious where you found the MT 3 blank, Ihave a project it would be easier to buy the blank instead of turning the taper
Hi John, it's too long ago to remember who I bought it from but there are loads on the web ranging from £17 to £26 - I just checked. The MT3 part is standard size but some have bigger diameter heads than others so watch that. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed I have found many ,all I have found have a smaller head, 32 mm at best
@@johnsavoy980 RDG tools model engineering suppliers do one which has a head 40 x 40mm see ebay item number 3773378980669 or their website.
@@HaxbyShed Thanks
John, if your in the states, look up McMaster-Carr. They have all sizes.
nice but this bearing is not enough thinking of how live centers are
!
Hi, my logic was that the bearing is strong enough to take the side thrust of a car wheel. The chuck would only ever be a 'supporting end' for a large tube or eccentric work. I agree it may not be 100% accurate or perhaps as good as a live centre bearing that is made for more accurate work. Cheers
Не понимаю английский, но внутреннюю обойму этого подшипника нужно сжимать гайкой. Иначе при осевой нагрузке появится люфт.
Привет, спасибо за комментарий. Я не понимаю по-русски, поэтому использую онлайн-переводчик. Надеюсь это работает. Две половины внутреннего кольца подшипника были прижаты к валу и плотно удерживались вместе за счет посадки с натягом на валу. Но если две половинки раздвигаются, чтобы образовался осевой люфт, то да, мне пришлось бы добавить болт, чтобы скрепить две половинки внутреннего кольца на валу. Ура
@@HaxbyShed И вам спасибо за внимание.
Привет, я добавил к видео автоматически сгенерированные субтитры. Итак, в вашем средстве просмотра включите субтитры, и сначала они будут на английском языке, но затем перейдите в настройки (изображение шестеренки) и выберите автоматический перевод, а затем выберите английский -> русский. После этого субтитры должны быть на русском языке. Вы видите это? Если это сработает, я включу субтитры во всех своих видео.
@@HaxbyShed Спасибо. Я помню про субтитры. В некоторых видео они мешают просмотру важных моментов (поэтому и отключил их) Теперь для ваших видео буду включать эту функцию. -)))))
@@petr_petrovith Иногда CZcams требуется время, чтобы автоматически сгенерировать субтитры. Я все еще жду создания субтитров для моего последнего видео, но теперь они доступны для всех остальных. Спасибо за помощь. Замечательно получать комментарии со всего мира.
To me ! You LOOK ! like The MACHINERY'S !! HANDBOOK !! OF THE !! FORTYS !! WITH !! THAT !! SKEWMATIC ! DIAGRAM !! ON ! YOUR NOTEPAD !! THERE !! MISTER ! HAXBY !!
:-) Hi David, if only I could be as good as the proper engineers in the 1940s .... that's something for me to work towards. Cheers.
Tapered roller bearings would be better instead of a dual ball.
Hi Trent, I do agree with you. I just had the unused car wheel bearing in my cupboard so it was convenient to use that. I've done a few jobs with the tailstock 4 jaw now and it runs pretty well. If I was using it every day or needed absolute accuracy I could upgrade to taper bearings without too much trouble I think. The series of videos showing the tailstock 4 jaw are on the hashtag #TAILSTOCK4JAW Cheers
nice man, i like your work but please show more of the machining process
Hi, I worried that people might find machining a bit boring just watching something going round and round. But recently I tried cutting some tough steel and perhaps people would like to see how different materials cut. Speaking for myself, I can watch a Shaper machine working all day ......... So, I will try to add in a bit more of the actual turning/machining.
I want to see the final run out on the chuck or the taper, Never do that it is rude for us watching.
Hi, it may be an glaring oversight but the truth is I have not checked the runout. I pressed it together and moved onto something else. Such is the nature of my hobby shop interests. But I will film the runout and add that on the end of my next video so you can see it. Then people can decide for themselves if it's good enough or not for their needs (and mine for that matter). Good call thanks.
Just Think of us You Tubers ! Watching !! Watching DAD !! DO !! HIS !! WORK !! With his ! Son !! NEXT ! TO ! HIM !!
Lathe Works: A
Ballbearing Works: F
Hi, thanks for the comment. I have an idea for a project which will test the 4 jaw and the bearings. So after Covid lockdown I will find the right metal for the test and then we will see how well the bearings perform. Cheers
@@HaxbyShed Sorry, a mistake: i mean the work you did to the innocent ballbearings, e.g. 18:33 sending brute force from outer ring-->balls-->inner ring. better use exact fitting rings or pipes instead.
@@krompkolb419 press work at 18:33 I see what you mean, thank you.
You want an easy way to NOT EVER have clamping marks? Take a copper pipe or thin plate and make yourself some shims. But, make it even easier on yourself later on and design those shims to fit over the top boss of each jaw, drill and tap a 1/4 X 20 hole on each jaw to bolt the shim in place forever! Brass plate will work, too. Happy days!!!
Thanks for that Mr F. I do need to make some soft jaw covers much as you describe. I'll add it to my odd job list. Cheers
Overall, much too heavy with interference.
Hi Tre, yes I agree though it has not given me any trouble so far. The oil seals on the bearing do give a bit of drag so it would not spin freely anyway. Next time I would make it with less interference, and put a captive screw on the end. Cheers
Добрый! Я вижу большое количество почитателей Вашего ролика , но с инженерной точки ваше изделие - глупость ( Не внешняя обойма подшипника, не внутренняя не имеет механического крепления и при использовании вашего патрона в задней бабке если его упереть в деталь и прокрутить маховик задней бабки , то настанет момент когда внешняя обойма поползет в сторону патрона . В вашем изделии все не так ( хотя бы поставить стопорные кольца и даже с этим улучшением , это плохое изделие(((
Привет, Сергей, я вижу, тебе не нравится мой дизайн. Да, я согласен, что зажимы (стопорные кольца) для удержания подшипника на месте были бы лучше. На данный момент он скрепляется только прессовой посадкой. Позже я добавлю винт, чтобы закрепить подшипник на валу. Но пока это работает очень хорошо. (Надеюсь гугловский переводчик работает). Ваше здоровье
Hi Sergey, I see you are not happy with my design. Yes I agree clips (snap rings) to hold the bearing in place would be better. At the moment it only holds together by press fit. Later I will add a screw to clamp the bearing on the shaft. But it has worked very well so far. (I hope Google translator is working). Cheers
Copying Cutting Edge Engineering (CEE) Australia much, are we?!?!?! LOL. LMFAO!!!! I’m telling Kurtis on you!!!! (And Karen, AND Homeless LOL!!!! HAHAHA!!!!!
Hiya Farty McF, in absolute honesty I'd not seen the CEE vid back then but of course his was a proper job with adjustable taper bearings and all. Mine was just a cheap job with bits I had already. Saying that, it works pretty well in all sorts of jobs I'd not thought of at the time I made it. I'll have a video coming up where I just use it to get a long Arbor concentric for machining when the hole for the running centre was a bit out (of centre). Cheers
Интересно очень.
Интересно очень.
большое спасибо