etrailer | Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2018 Ford Transit T250
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
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Today on our 2018 Ford Transit T250 we're going to be taking a look at and I'm going to show you how to install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. This is what our wiring looks like when it's installed. It's going to give us all the proper lighting functions to safely tow our trailer. It's going to give us both turn signals, our running lights, and our brake lights. It's going to have an added dust cap to help keep any dirt and debris from getting in our connections. And when not in use, it can double as a holder to help our wiring from dragging.
We're going to have 2.1 amps per circuit for our stop and turn signal and 3.75 amps per circuit for our tail lights.As far as the installation goes, it's pretty simple. You're going to hook directly into your factory wiring behind your tail lights, run your power wire up to the front of the vehicle, and connect it to the positive side of the battery. The nice thing about this wiring is it's going to have a modular box. And what that modular box does is it protects your factory wiring from any back feed from the trailer if the trailer has a wiring issue and vice versa. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let me show you how to get it installed.First thing we're going to do to start our installation, we're going to remove both tail lights.
T20 Torx bit. We're going to have a screw here, and a screw on the bottom. If you don't have a Torx bit, you can also use a flat head screwdriver. Once you remove your bolts, simply going to pull our tail light straight back. I'm going to go ahead and disconnect our wiring.
There's going to be a black tab right here. We're going to push down and pull out. We're going to repeat that process for the other side. Now we're going to take our wiring harness. We're going to take the yellow and we're going to feed it up from underneath and right behind our bumper through here.
The problem is I don't know if I'm going to be able to get this through this hole. What I'm going to do is I'm going to take out a couple of these screws right here on the corner of my bumper to give me a little extra space.And then I'll come up right behind this piece. It's good to add a little bit of dielectric grease before you make your connection. This is going to help prevent any moisture build up and corrosion. Plug that in there. Then we can reinstall our tail light. You can see how the wiring is hitting the back back here. I think what we're going to have to do, we're going to pop this clip off. Pull this off first. Maybe spin that like that and see if we can get it to work like that. Keep it in place. And we'll reinstall our screws. Now as far as my modular box, there's a couple ways you can mount it. It comes with two-sided tape. You can tape it here if you want. Sometimes that tape doesn't last. If that falls off, it's just going to be hanging. What I'm going to do is I'm going to slide it up like this to kind of help keep it out of the weather, and this existing hole, I'm going zip tie right through this hole into this one.Just go right through both of them. I'm going to zip tie it to that metal to help keep it tight. Then we don't have to worry about it falling. As far as my ground wire, I'm going to use a self-tapping screw that comes in the kit, 1/4" socket, and I'm going to go right through this metal. You want to make sure that your ground wire is on metal and not on plastic. Once you get your box mounted, your ground wire in, you're going take your 4-pole wire and your green wire go up over top of the frame rail. You can see I've got it right along inside of the hitch. I've bundled my 4-pole wire up here. Took a couple of longer zip ties, zip tied it around the bitch here to hold it in place. Got my 4-pole wire here. Green wire, ran it across, zip tied it on this side, over the top of the frame rail. Now I can run it up to my passenger's side and tail light.While we're here, we're going to take the black wire coming off our modular box. We're going to put a butt connector on it. The butt connectors that come in your kit, I suggest exchanging them for heat shrink butt connectors. These are just 10 to 12 gauge heat shrink butt connectors. If you don't have any, you can find some here at etrailer.com. A butt connector on one side there. We're going to take the black wire that comes in our kit and strip it back, add it into the other end just like that. And we'll take a heat source and we'll heat that up. I'm going to be using a heat gun. If you don't have a heat gun, you can also find those here at etrailer.com. Now we're going to run our bl
Want to thank you!! I was lost and didnt think I could do this but I followed the video and done!! :)
Great to here! Our goal is to make these tasks easier with out guides and faq pages! www.etrailer.com/article-categories.aspx
@@etrailer Thank you so much I have to order some items soon and I will definitely look at you guys
That was helpful. Thanks
You're very welcome, we're glad it was helpful!
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118643.html
Why does it need a direct all-the-time-on power from the battery ? I have done many installation on other cars and never needed that. Shouldn't it just need a power when the lights are on ? I'm confused about that part and there is no explanation in the manual. What if I just run a line from the park light and that way it will only work when my lights are on ? I'm always using the lights with trailers, so it won't make a difference for me.
The manufacturer recommends installing this with the power wire going straight to the battery so that no other wiring or accessory will interfere with the functioning of the trailer wiring.
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118643.html
My church has two Transit vans both need and use this wire. I ran the wiring on both of the vans. Many other vehicles don't need or use this wire but Ford Transit vans need the wire hot.
@@bryanrettig1859 I ran the wire too but the unit died after 3 months. It is a horrible design. Every single wire was too short, I had to add 10-12" to the right side wire, the direct positive wire. Unit now is dead, both trailer lights are constantly on, turn signal and brake lights do not work. I am going to rip this piece of crap out and install factory wiring harness with proper colors. I use it almost every day and it worked for about 3 months, so it works, but then it just died one day.
@5:15 he puts his finger on the factory trailer wiring connector like a dozen times - its the same connector as 2020 super duties... so why in the heck does he not just plug into that
The owner of the vehicle did not want to purchase the plug that connects to the factory harness.
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118643.html
Well he’s done this before a time or few thousand lol made it look like like it was literally nothing lol
He probably has installed a few thousand of these wiring kits. This kit is very straight forward to get installed. Check out the following link for more information on this trailer wiring harness.
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118643.html
Would have been nice if you showed how to disconnect the negative terminal. You kind of missed an important step there