Thanks for the sub! I just finished re-building my lab and will be making more of these videos soon, including one on how to build one of those monster detectors.
The chip can take a max of 8v input. The issue here is the voltage output. Surely the chip supports 4.2v and most 5v will take that low voltage., But when you've 3.3v then it is too high to use. May be important to put the project voltage on and its limit. I use a booster for 5v, it's fairly small, I use a and a micro buck
Hi, I'm building something similar but have an issue with the TP4056 module. The circuit would not start till I short the B- and OUTPUT-. Any guess why? From what I see in your video, you solder B- and OUTPUT- on the same pad.
Very helpful video. I have a question though. I have to power my B&D rechargeable screwdriver with 2 x 18650s in parallel. Will this arrangement you showed us will work ?
I have never done that. Theoretically it could work but there are risks to having the batteries in parallel. I would just recharge the batteries one at a time or use two TP4056 boards.
Isn’t it bad to charge the battery while there is still a load on it? Shouldn’t you charge the battery independently so it can terminate the charge properly?
Yes, you'll need to add a load sharing circuit. There is another comment here from Warren were we discussed that. I've been meaning to update this video and create a new one to talk about adding a simple load sharing circuit to the TP4056 using a pair of diodes.
Ruben Lopez Another video on a load sharing circuit would be quite popular I would think, especially when you include the TP4056 as many people maybe charging their projects without knowing the risk.
I am not able to find a datahseet for the circuit board as such, only finding it for the TP4056 IC. I wanted to know what is the maximum output voltage and/or current from the output terminals of the circuit?
Hi I'm here to see if anybody can help me with some problems getting current through this board. I've been trying to turn some old headphones wireless, just a little side project for fun. But I can't get the power switch to turn on or off, the only way it will power on to get detected wirelessly is if I connect it to a power source outlet while the battery is connected. The battery I'm using is a (3.7V- 4.2V Maximun) Lithium ion battery. Connected to the two center solder points as shown on here and other videos online the problem is I can't get any power no matter what unless I have battery soldered on and the charger connected. I don't know if it's the switch not soldered right or if I've soldered on to the wrong points on the wireless receiver. Which is a BK8000L Wireless audio module. I've currently only soldered the battery, TP4056 board, power switch and audio module to test if I can get signal detected in my phone which I have. But only while battery is connected and it's charging, if I disconnect the charger the signal stops sending.
"what kind of projects can you build with this charger?" - it is like asking: "where can you go having the car?" ;-) I use TP4056 in ALL my projects but the resistor should be TTH I think considering one has to change it
I currently have the same setup that I tried with both versions of the TP4056 running to a 5V step up then into an Arduino Nano powering 4 neopixel LEDs activated by 4 buttons. Two questions that boggle me. First is if I disconnect the battery, and plug in the USB, there isn't a high enough voltage coming out of the TP4056 to power the 5V step up which in turn means not enough voltage for the Arduino (~0.5V coming out of the TP4056 without a battery). If I momentarily plug in the battery, and disconnect it afterwards, the power out of the TP4056 goes up to 4.17V without the battery and successfully powers everything in the circuit. Secondly, if I disconnect the Arduino and fully charge the battery, the blue charged led lights up. Once I connect the load back on, the TP4056 goes back into charging mode. It's as if once the load is plugged in, it's pulling current from the battery and the TP4056 is no longer charging the battery anymore and it starts to slowly deplete. This means there's no way for me to determine if the battery is fully charged when a load is attached or it could mean that I'm constantly fluctuating between charging the battery and drawing current from it. Sorry for the long comment/questions but I've been struggling with this for a couple of days with no clear explanation.
This circuit is meant to be used with a battery, it will always draw power from the battery. The protection ICs on the TP4056 are causing the odd behavior you described. It sounds like you are looking for a load sharing circuit. You could probably do something like putting a 1N5817 between the TP4056 IN+ to the boost converter IN+ and another 1N5817 between the TP4056 OUT+ to the boost converter IN+. This should make the boost converter draw power from the highest voltage source, which will be USB when connected. I might try this to see if I could get it to work and update this video later.
@@rlopezxl Thanks for the tip! I just wanted to verify before I replied. Throwing in two diodes on the TP4056 did the trick and kept the battery charged and switched over to the USB power when it was plugged in as it generally had a higher base voltage. When I was trying to power it from a USB hub (without additional power), it seemed like the voltage/current was slightly lower, so even when the battery was fully charged, it would blink between charging and fully charged, which I don't think is very healthy for the battery. With a USB power source that is attached to a wall socket, everything seems to work as expected.
I've always been confused about how drvers works.. ie . Led drivers. Does the led pull current through the driver? Or does the driver feed the led? Maybe a very dum question I seen people who don't need LED drivers ? Is it okay not to use a driver /PWM?
That depends on the use case. I have used PWM to control several LEDs to give the illusion that they were all on at once using an AVR MCU. I've used LED drivers to control LED matrix displays using only a couple of pins on the MCU. I will usually just control the LEDs from the MCU if I have pins available.
Hello sir, I have watched your video on how to use TP4056 properly. I have a question, what materials should I use since Im going to make my own mp3 player? I have an mp3 player board, TP4056 without protection, and a prismatic cell with no BMS. I saw some comments on having their TP4056 a false charge yet overcharging their battery, and to Warren Wang's case where you said he should connect 1N5817 on those boards. I'm really confused and that I need to finish this project of mine, yet being aware of its dangers when not properly assembled. I hope you can give advices and instructions. Thank you for your advanced reply.
Hello Eric, I'm not familiar with the components you are using, so I suggest you go take a look at one of the many MP3 player + Tp4056 tutorials available online. Search for "instructables mp3 player with tp4056" and you'll find several projects with detailed steps and schematics.
Hi! I have the same module, but after a few usages it always starts outputting half voltage so I have to switch it out. Do you know what is going on and how I can fix it?
I've had a couple just die on me but have never experienced what you described. There are bad clones of this module out there, I would try buying one from a different vendor.
Be careful with 18650 Li-Ion batteries. They do not like charging and discharging them at the same time. I would prefer charge them and then use them. Do not do the both at the same time.
That's not true, the battery won't care at all. It's more of a issue with the electronics being able to do both things at once. How do you think Tesla cars work when using regen braking? One second the battery is discharging when you are accelerating and the very next it's being charged when you brake. Lithium batteries are very efficient and don't have memory effect unlike older batteries.
I subscribed. When I saw your monster detector lol. Awesome way to make your son happy and have fun yourself
Thanks for the sub! I just finished re-building my lab and will be making more of these videos soon, including one on how to build one of those monster detectors.
Good guiding with helping captions!
Your ultrafire battery is going to be a ultra fire 🔥
really? Can you tell me why?
@@quaninhphamhong7130 they are known to be either fake cells made very poorly or low quality recycled cells with a new wrapper.
The chip can take a max of 8v input.
The issue here is the voltage output.
Surely the chip supports 4.2v and most 5v will take that low voltage., But when you've 3.3v then it is too high to use.
May be important to put the project voltage on and its limit.
I use a booster for 5v, it's fairly small, I use a and a micro buck
can i use for boost to 5 volt ; STEP UP MODULE MT3608 ADJUSTABLE STEP UP BOOST DC 2A 2V-24V TO 5V-28V ?
thanks man this was really helpful
great video very educational and modular👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
This video was super useful, thank you so much!
Hi, I'm building something similar but have an issue with the TP4056 module. The circuit would not start till I short the B- and OUTPUT-. Any guess why? From what I see in your video, you solder B- and OUTPUT- on the same pad.
Could you post a link to the Crystal Oscillator. Thanks
Good job brother.. continue your sharing. Happy to learn from you.
Thanks for the great vid! What is the minimum mAh lithium lipo battery you can get away with and still get your 5v power? Thanks!
0.000000000000000001 mAh
You need to learn about volts x amps = watts
Thank you for the great video! Question: Can I run a 3.7-6v motor directly off of the outputs from the tp4056?
Very helpful video. I have a question though. I have to power my B&D rechargeable screwdriver with 2 x 18650s in parallel. Will this arrangement you showed us will work ?
I have never done that. Theoretically it could work but there are risks to having the batteries in parallel. I would just recharge the batteries one at a time or use two TP4056 boards.
Awsome job!
How long can a single cell supply an arduino nano sir? How will I be able to use two batteries?
Thnak you, very helpfull, all the best.
Isn’t it bad to charge the battery while there is still a load on it? Shouldn’t you charge the battery independently so it can terminate the charge properly?
Yes, you'll need to add a load sharing circuit. There is another comment here from Warren were we discussed that. I've been meaning to update this video and create a new one to talk about adding a simple load sharing circuit to the TP4056 using a pair of diodes.
Ruben Lopez
Another video on a load sharing circuit would be quite popular I would think, especially when you include the TP4056 as many people maybe charging their projects without knowing the risk.
Jack Penton
I agree, an easy or more in-depth solution to this would be quite popular I would think not to mention the safety aspect!
czcams.com/video/f2yMs-JAyQM/video.html
can u share the link for the boost converter
Hi, just subbed. Does the red led circuit use power from the battery while its charging at the end of the clip?
I am not able to find a datahseet for the circuit board as such, only finding it for the TP4056 IC.
I wanted to know what is the maximum output voltage and/or current from the output terminals of the circuit?
Hi I'm here to see if anybody can help me with some problems getting current through this board.
I've been trying to turn some old headphones wireless, just a little side project for fun. But I can't get the power switch to turn on or off, the only way it will power on to get detected wirelessly is if I connect it to a power source outlet while the battery is connected.
The battery I'm using is a (3.7V- 4.2V Maximun) Lithium ion battery. Connected to the two center solder points as shown on here and other videos online the problem is I can't get any power no matter what unless I have battery soldered on and the charger connected.
I don't know if it's the switch not soldered right or if I've soldered on to the wrong points on the wireless receiver. Which is a BK8000L Wireless audio module.
I've currently only soldered the battery, TP4056 board, power switch and audio module to test if I can get signal detected in my phone which I have. But only while battery is connected and it's charging, if I disconnect the charger the signal stops sending.
"what kind of projects can you build with this charger?" - it is like asking: "where can you go having the car?" ;-)
I use TP4056 in ALL my projects but the resistor should be TTH I think considering one has to change it
How much time takes charging the battery fully?
3-4 hours
I currently have the same setup that I tried with both versions of the TP4056 running to a 5V step up then into an Arduino Nano powering 4 neopixel LEDs activated by 4 buttons. Two questions that boggle me. First is if I disconnect the battery, and plug in the USB, there isn't a high enough voltage coming out of the TP4056 to power the 5V step up which in turn means not enough voltage for the Arduino (~0.5V coming out of the TP4056 without a battery). If I momentarily plug in the battery, and disconnect it afterwards, the power out of the TP4056 goes up to 4.17V without the battery and successfully powers everything in the circuit. Secondly, if I disconnect the Arduino and fully charge the battery, the blue charged led lights up. Once I connect the load back on, the TP4056 goes back into charging mode. It's as if once the load is plugged in, it's pulling current from the battery and the TP4056 is no longer charging the battery anymore and it starts to slowly deplete. This means there's no way for me to determine if the battery is fully charged when a load is attached or it could mean that I'm constantly fluctuating between charging the battery and drawing current from it. Sorry for the long comment/questions but I've been struggling with this for a couple of days with no clear explanation.
This circuit is meant to be used with a battery, it will always draw power from the battery. The protection ICs on the TP4056 are causing the odd behavior you described. It sounds like you are looking for a load sharing circuit. You could probably do something like putting a 1N5817 between the TP4056 IN+ to the boost converter IN+ and another 1N5817 between the TP4056 OUT+ to the boost converter IN+. This should make the boost converter draw power from the highest voltage source, which will be USB when connected. I might try this to see if I could get it to work and update this video later.
@@rlopezxl Thanks for the tip! I just wanted to verify before I replied. Throwing in two diodes on the TP4056 did the trick and kept the battery charged and switched over to the USB power when it was plugged in as it generally had a higher base voltage. When I was trying to power it from a USB hub (without additional power), it seemed like the voltage/current was slightly lower, so even when the battery was fully charged, it would blink between charging and fully charged, which I don't think is very healthy for the battery. With a USB power source that is attached to a wall socket, everything seems to work as expected.
I've always been confused about how drvers works.. ie . Led drivers. Does the led pull current through the driver? Or does the driver feed the led? Maybe a very dum question
I seen people who don't need LED drivers ? Is it okay not to use a driver /PWM?
That depends on the use case. I have used PWM to control several LEDs to give the illusion that they were all on at once using an AVR MCU. I've used LED drivers to control LED matrix displays using only a couple of pins on the MCU. I will usually just control the LEDs from the MCU if I have pins available.
Can we use Buck Converter instead 'TP4056 charge module' in order to charge battery with precise controlled power supply?
I wouldn't. A buck converter won't limit the current. You also won't get the protection features included in the TP4056 charger module.
Hello sir, I have watched your video on how to use TP4056 properly. I have a question, what materials should I use since Im going to make my own mp3 player? I have an mp3 player board, TP4056 without protection, and a prismatic cell with no BMS. I saw some comments on having their TP4056 a false charge yet overcharging their battery, and to Warren Wang's case where you said he should connect 1N5817 on those boards. I'm really confused and that I need to finish this project of mine, yet being aware of its dangers when not properly assembled. I hope you can give advices and instructions. Thank you for your advanced reply.
Hello Eric, I'm not familiar with the components you are using, so I suggest you go take a look at one of the many MP3 player + Tp4056 tutorials available online. Search for "instructables mp3 player with tp4056" and you'll find several projects with detailed steps and schematics.
Hi! I have the same module, but after a few usages it always starts outputting half voltage so I have to switch it out. Do you know what is going on and how I can fix it?
I've had a couple just die on me but have never experienced what you described. There are bad clones of this module out there, I would try buying one from a different vendor.
It would have been better if you showed a cad drawing of the schematic rather then the over head shot of the bread board. .
Is Buck Converter similar to Boost Converter?
A buck converter steps down the voltage, a boost converter steps up the voltage.
Hello sir.
Can I use Tp4056 for 26650?
Yes you can
@@rlopezxl hmmm. I will use your method sir. And I will try my 26650 to charge it with TP4056
Be careful with 18650 Li-Ion batteries. They do not like charging and discharging them at the same time. I would prefer charge them and then use them. Do not do the both at the same time.
czcams.com/video/f2yMs-JAyQM/video.html
That's not true, the battery won't care at all. It's more of a issue with the electronics being able to do both things at once. How do you think Tesla cars work when using regen braking? One second the battery is discharging when you are accelerating and the very next it's being charged when you brake. Lithium batteries are very efficient and don't have memory effect unlike older batteries.
🤣🤣🤣 4200mAh 18650 battery 🤣🤣🤣