That’s why letting it marinade helps. But it’s certainly subjective too. You can also compare it to other work you like and gauge how the colours sit in comparison.
Thanks for the refresher! I almost didn't watch it because I figure I know the basics of lightroom pretty well. But watching it, I realize I am in a bit of a rut, doing the same things the same way. Thanks for the kick!
Watching your videos is like a chef adding spices and flavorings to their ingredients chest. Just watch, listen, soak it in and then it'll pop up again later while I'm editing! It really doesn't apply to this image, but one technique I found can work on smooth water if appropriate is to lower the shadows areas (through a mask) and maybe just a very little, bump the mids / highs to maintain definition. Those darker shadows really can accentuate reflections when the water is smooth. Excellent video.
I really need to thank you for these videos. They've transformed the way I edit and see my images, especially regarding different treatments for near and far elements in the image.
Very impressive! Of course you show us how to do things, but more importantly ... you explain WHY we need to do what we are being shown how to do. You are a consummate teacher. "Give a man a fish, he eats for the day. Teach a man to fish, he eats for ever." You are teaching us techniques so that we can develop our own personal styles for our art.
I really like your approach to processing your photos. Quite different from most other CZcams landscape photographers I follow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
Great tips William. Love how you explain which tools you use to achieve certain effect. Not many photographers show how they get certain effect by indicating which tools to use and how to change sliders. They explain what tools do but don't relate it to what they do to effect the image. Is it a problem printing using Adobe landscape? Have heard it generally will be outside color space of the printer? What color space do you use in PS? RGB or CYMK? Seems like very difficult to get print to look like monitor, i.e. calibrating monitor, color space, printer profiles, paper profiles, colors out of gamut, camera profiles, etc. Could you do a video on that, getting prints to look like monitor?
Thanks a lot ...everything before..and after subtilité.... si now I will try to improve my photography Way in your marvellous country ! Tomorow ! from New caledonia....I hope not to much rain but good cold weather !
Really helpful, Wiiliam. One aspect I’m never sure on, concerns the little light rim where the sky meets the hills. To what extent is this natural and should be left as it is; and to what extent is it a halo caused by over editing and creating too strong a contrast between the shy and hills? Often I will use the clone stamp to darken this rim, as my eye always gets drawn to it!
Hard to say without seeing the specific images. Sometimes that arises from a few other steps in the processing without you realising. Like working on the mountain and not realising the brush is gently hitting the sky. I’ve had this happen with clients before. That’s why the adjustments made in those areas should only be for certain tones and not exposure or anything too strong.
Great video , I use Olympus workspace but many of your tips will work there as well , have Subed and looking forward to watching more . EX Kiwi born in Otaira now living in Western Australia , cheers again Pete
As usual, great tutorial William. I really like the way you push subtlety in your editing. While it was hard to tell from your zooming in and out, it appeared there was some yellow in the trees along the banks of the river. Would you consider some slight color separation (yellow-green form darker green) using the point color tool in the color mixer to created that separation? Thanks again, Lew
Thanks Lew. Yeah, sure that could be done. Although if it can only be seen once zooming in tight, then it might not be worth fussing over. This applies to all aspects of processing. It's like when you look at a painting, up close you will see all the strokes and chaos but a few steps back it all comes together to make something readable. With photography, it's also worth mainly observing from a realistic perspective and concentrate just on the major shapes, colours and tones.
This video has been very helpful. Is it better to start with a one shot photo that has high dynamic range or exposure blend and then make the adjustments?
As long as you’re not severely underexposing, one file is more than fine. I haven’t blended two exposures for many years. Far easier that way and you can see how clean the shadows still are. Depends on your camera though too, of course.
Bro, thanks for the video. Can you say something about important functions of a good monitor for image editing? Anti-glare, flat, colors...maybe an imac 27 4k or better the imac 27" 5k?
i really like the idea of just using the brush and ignoring the other masking tools. Do you think it appropriate for other genres eg architecture, wildlife?
Hi Will really great results with minimal processing for digital raw files. Have you ever shot landscapes with film ie negative/slide emulsion? Film characteristics depending on film could be very saturated and vivid back in the day no one had any issues with saturation and colour. I use a7r4 cameras and think digital is the best thing to happen photography. It would be great to get film results from raw file processing (presets/profiles can achieve look) What are your thoughts Will? I would be very interested in your reply.
Never used film but I’m familiar with the look and results you speak of. You can replicate it in post and there’s presets out there. Not sure how it would hold up and compare to the modern era.
Thanks mate. Yeah, you'll find that people love reviewing gear and if you google search you should be able to find something. However, it is most likely going to be an f-stop that is too wide for landscapes and not provide enough DOF. So the best thing you can do is experiment yourself and see what gives you decent DOF but looks sharpest. Just stand in the backyard and create some frames at various apertures then check on the computer :)
Hi Will, when you speak about f8 being the sweet spot in your 12-24, you refer yourself to the 2.8 GM or the f4 G zoom? I've recently bought a G one and I struggle to have everything in focus in my a7iv. Cheers from the Basque Country in Spain 😊
Nice area, I just have a workshop to someone from Basque 😅 I have the 2.8 version and definitely f/8 gets the job done and much sharper than f/11 however if you’re getting very close to foreground then you’ll need to focus stack.
William, is it possible to put your process in point form? I did see a video that had capitals but can't remember the order?? L (light) C (contrast) etc?? Just can't find it
Thanks mate! It taught myself this workflow over a decade ago, back when Lightroom was a seperate purchase to Photoshop and had limitations. Didn’t see the point in learning it and haven’t ever needed it since. Thankfully the program is so similar to ACR now, which helps from a teaching perspective.
@WilliamPatinoPhotography thank you for taking the time to reply, can you edit in photoshop from it then go back to continue your edit like you can with Lightroom.
I think for me the biggest challenge is dealing with bright colors - How far is too far? That is always in the back of my mind.
That’s why letting it marinade helps. But it’s certainly subjective too. You can also compare it to other work you like and gauge how the colours sit in comparison.
Thanks for the refresher! I almost didn't watch it because I figure I know the basics of lightroom pretty well. But watching it, I realize I am in a bit of a rut, doing the same things the same way. Thanks for the kick!
Glad it was helpful!
Watching your videos is like a chef adding spices and flavorings to their ingredients chest. Just watch, listen, soak it in and then it'll pop up again later while I'm editing! It really doesn't apply to this image, but one technique I found can work on smooth water if appropriate is to lower the shadows areas (through a mask) and maybe just a very little, bump the mids / highs to maintain definition. Those darker shadows really can accentuate reflections when the water is smooth.
Excellent video.
Thanks so much mate 🙏🏻🙏🏻
I always love going back to these editing videos to be reminded..Less is More...Thanks Will. 🙂
Thanks Joy 😊😊
I really need to thank you for these videos. They've transformed the way I edit and see my images, especially regarding different treatments for near and far elements in the image.
Thank you. It’s so great to hear 🙏🏻
Very impressive! Of course you show us how to do things, but more importantly ... you explain WHY we need to do what we are being shown how to do. You are a consummate teacher. "Give a man a fish, he eats for the day. Teach a man to fish, he eats for ever." You are teaching us techniques so that we can develop our own personal styles for our art.
That really means a lot to me. Thank you Allen 🙏🏻
I really like your approach to processing your photos. Quite different from most other CZcams landscape photographers I follow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
Awesome, thank you!
Great tips William. Love how you explain which tools you use to achieve certain effect. Not many photographers show how they get certain effect by indicating which tools to use and how to change sliders. They explain what tools do but don't relate it to what they do to effect the image. Is it a problem printing using Adobe landscape? Have heard it generally will be outside color space of the printer? What color space do you use in PS? RGB or CYMK? Seems like very difficult to get print to look like monitor, i.e. calibrating monitor, color space, printer profiles, paper profiles, colors out of gamut, camera profiles, etc. Could you do a video on that, getting prints to look like monitor?
Thanks Rich. Have a look a few videos back where I show the adjustments I make for print, plus show you some prints I get done :)
As a user of a 10 year old DSLR, im not sure id be comfortable with just one exposure for this image lol Amazing video! Thank you!
Haha, true. You’ll want a minimum of two exposures for sure 😅
Thanks a lot ...everything before..and after subtilité.... si now I will try to improve my photography Way in your marvellous country ! Tomorow ! from New caledonia....I hope not to much rain but good cold weather !
All the best!!
Interesting tips on the subtleties of processing. Thanks
Cheers
Cheers Tim 🙏🏻
Great use of segmentation in the overall image and separation of tonal qualities to add depth and intesest. Great approach to post. in Lr.
Thank you 🙏🏻👊🏻
Really enjoyable to watch that edit William, I for one get a lot out of these videos so thank you for sharing your skills, very much appreciated.
My pleasure!
Exceptional video for processing. I can see I have room for improvement in some areas. Thank you for this.
Thank you Dave 🙏🏻
Really helpful, Wiiliam. One aspect I’m never sure on, concerns the little light rim where the sky meets the hills. To what extent is this natural and should be left as it is; and to what extent is it a halo caused by over editing and creating too strong a contrast between the shy and hills? Often I will use the clone stamp to darken this rim, as my eye always gets drawn to it!
Hard to say without seeing the specific images. Sometimes that arises from a few other steps in the processing without you realising. Like working on the mountain and not realising the brush is gently hitting the sky. I’ve had this happen with clients before. That’s why the adjustments made in those areas should only be for certain tones and not exposure or anything too strong.
Great video , I use Olympus workspace but many of your tips will work there as well , have Subed and looking forward to watching more . EX Kiwi born in Otaira now living in Western Australia , cheers again Pete
Useful advice in a commonsense vid. Well done, William
Thanks a lot Barry 🙏🏻
Perfect, I still thank you for showing us those differences. It has totally changed the way I approach my photography at sunset and sunrise.
Thanks so much champion
Your tips are always appreciated Will. I hope you have, or are having, a good autumn. Best wishes
Thank you! 😊
Another excellent informative and interesting video. Editing is fast becoming far less daunting and that's completely down to your tuition and videos.
Glad to hear! You've come a long way :)
Excellent post-processing tips, Will!
Thanks! 😊🙏🏻
Another top video 😊
Thanks again!
Fabulous learning👋🏽🙏🏽
Thank you 🤗
Awesome as always - cheers, William 🙏🏻🤟📸💻
Thanks again! 👊🏻🤪💪🏼
This is a very informative tutorial. It will help me to fix some of my struggles in editing. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
My pleasure, thanks for the support and I’m glad it’s helped :)
Brilliant video as usual
Thanks again mate 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Great video William
Thanks a lot Adam :)
Excellent tips thanks
My pleasure!
Brilliant as usually! Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
My pleasure! 🙏🏻😊
As usual, great tutorial William. I really like the way you push subtlety in your editing. While it was hard to tell from your zooming in and out, it appeared there was some yellow in the trees along the banks of the river. Would you consider some slight color separation (yellow-green form darker green) using the point color tool in the color mixer to created that separation?
Thanks again,
Lew
Thanks Lew. Yeah, sure that could be done. Although if it can only be seen once zooming in tight, then it might not be worth fussing over. This applies to all aspects of processing. It's like when you look at a painting, up close you will see all the strokes and chaos but a few steps back it all comes together to make something readable. With photography, it's also worth mainly observing from a realistic perspective and concentrate just on the major shapes, colours and tones.
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Thanks William. I see your point. Hard to tell from the image when viewing over YT and with not full image view.
Great video
Thanks!
Awesome, thank you. Enjoy your long exposure images and editing tips.
Thanks a lot! :)
Nice tutorial, William. Thanks.
Thank you 🙏🏻
Superb video Will. As always, it is packed with so much sound knowledge and delivered so clearly. Nice.
Thanks a lot Kev 🙏🏻
Thank you. A really interesting video🙏 You have to make a new course now😊
Thanks! Im working on it :)
Thanks 💗
You're welcome 😊
This video has been very helpful. Is it better to start with a one shot photo that has high dynamic range or exposure blend and then make the adjustments?
As long as you’re not severely underexposing, one file is more than fine. I haven’t blended two exposures for many years. Far easier that way and you can see how clean the shadows still are. Depends on your camera though too, of course.
Brilliant, thank you! 😄 Now I am wondering what is the equivalent of adding haze in Luminar Neo...
Good question, I've never used it sorry!
Bro, thanks for the video.
Can you say something about important functions of a good monitor for image editing? Anti-glare, flat, colors...maybe an imac 27 4k or better the imac 27" 5k?
i really like the idea of just using the brush and ignoring the other masking tools. Do you think it appropriate for other genres eg architecture, wildlife?
Totally!
Hi Will really great results with minimal processing for digital raw files.
Have you ever shot landscapes with film ie negative/slide emulsion?
Film characteristics depending on film could be very saturated and vivid
back in the day no one had any issues with saturation and colour.
I use a7r4 cameras and think digital is the best thing to happen photography.
It would be great to get film results from raw file processing (presets/profiles can achieve look)
What are your thoughts Will?
I would be very interested in your reply.
Never used film but I’m familiar with the look and results you speak of. You can replicate it in post and there’s presets out there. Not sure how it would hold up and compare to the modern era.
Great and valuable tip as always.
Is there any website where you can find the sweet spot of your lenses?
Thanks mate. Yeah, you'll find that people love reviewing gear and if you google search you should be able to find something. However, it is most likely going to be an f-stop that is too wide for landscapes and not provide enough DOF. So the best thing you can do is experiment yourself and see what gives you decent DOF but looks sharpest. Just stand in the backyard and create some frames at various apertures then check on the computer :)
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography thanks. Definitely go to backyard sounds more interesting.
Hi Will, when you speak about f8 being the sweet spot in your 12-24, you refer yourself to the 2.8 GM or the f4 G zoom? I've recently bought a G one and I struggle to have everything in focus in my a7iv. Cheers from the Basque Country in Spain 😊
Nice area, I just have a workshop to someone from Basque 😅 I have the 2.8 version and definitely f/8 gets the job done and much sharper than f/11 however if you’re getting very close to foreground then you’ll need to focus stack.
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Thanks a lot. I'll have to start focus stacking then...
William, is it possible to put your process in point form? I did see a video that had capitals but can't remember the order?? L (light) C (contrast) etc?? Just can't find it
Hey Jane, that’s in the processing course I made. You might have that?
Great video, love your style. Is there a reason you don't use Lightroom ?
Thanks mate! It taught myself this workflow over a decade ago, back when Lightroom was a seperate purchase to Photoshop and had limitations. Didn’t see the point in learning it and haven’t ever needed it since. Thankfully the program is so similar to ACR now, which helps from a teaching perspective.
@WilliamPatinoPhotography thank you for taking the time to reply, can you edit in photoshop from it then go back to continue your edit like you can with Lightroom.
Hi can you get the same affect with filters or just taking 3 photos and put them together. I am not good at all with photoshop at all. 😀
Easier and more accurate with this method. Blending exposures is more work and not even necessary.
how long did this edit take?
Promo`SM