How to Lay Out Mudsill on Stepped Walls Solo $
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- čas přidán 5. 11. 2022
- Let's start framing a new one. In this video, I'm snapping lay out and installing mudsill so the plumbers could come in and get the underground pluming roughed in for inspection. I was alone and this was a great opportunity to show how to use the Stabila LA180L and LAX300g to speed up the process and keep accuracy.
I fastened the mudsill using the @MAXUSACORPTools HN120 high pressure concrete nailer. www.toolbarn.com/products/max...
Please remember that I'm not showing the best way to lay out, but just the method that works well for us. Thanks for watching!
Oh and another takeaway, if you use a drone for commercial work, you need to be part107 certified. Commercial work includes social media like CZcams if you plan to make an income off of that. I watched a video about this last May and then purchased the Part 107 Course sso.teachable.com/secure/2458... I studied and learned for 1 month and then took my test. I scored a 95%, which is a testament to how good Greg and the crew over there teach. That link will save you $100 off the course and support this channel.
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No sill gasket?
Forgot to include:
Awesome job as always, was just wondering
No need because we use pressure treated lumber. It doesn't actually air seal and is a step that doesn't improve the longevity of the treated wood.
@@AwesomeFramers What about insects or is the top of the concrete so flat that . . . . . . 🙃🙂🙃
Here in Maine, the building code doesn't require it, but the energy code requires either sill seal if the top of the foundation is dead flat or caulking the joint between the sill and concrete. I remember fiberglass sill seal then foam which doesn't do much on most foundations. I prefer to use urethane caulk after the sill is fastened down. I know some guys who bed the sill in caulk if the top of concrete has many dips.
All that it takes is a tiny hole next to a water pipe when it's 10 F out and the wind is blowing to ruin someone's day.
@@bchdsailor We can seal from the inside with Big Stretch, but the reality is that our concrete is nice and flat.
Um capillary break?
Disclaimer This is Just a mention of the good old days before lasers. 1st mention is we always loved our foundation guy because he, might as well say dead on with his shop built forms. 2nd we would build the step down walls, the sills on the step down walls had large holes drilled for j bolts and a washer (so we can adjust them if needed.) nut just started on. With the back plate down we would brace and sq up top plate on the step walls which is the sill plate on the established back wall and then plumb down and tighten bolts on the step down sills. Then we would do Pythagorean triples and yes eye ball it. Back in the day I know everyone hates that saying but an old framer told me IT IS ROUGH FRAMING not finish carpentry but being a drywall guy It was easy hanging on a home we framed. Enjoy your channel and I have learned plenty as I sit in my chair watching these young backs do what I use to do and loved.
U named your channel appropriately. U r indeed awesome. I don’t understand everything, but I am learning, at 73. Thank u!!
Best in-depth explanations about layout and framing available anywhere. Keep up the good work.
Ur explanation of the way u do things is very simple to understand. Great video
You make me realize I over think, and over perfect things when honestly no one will know a 1/4 inch.
I run the two points on a diagnol, but I am using the beam level to locate the reference up the steps, then I connect the dots on the flat level wall. Same result, less techy! Or in my shoes you can say, tacky!! I'm fine with it. Good video for my coffee fix this afternoon. Thank you!
As always... Absolutely Awesome 🥳🥳🥳
Always love it
Excelente video 👍
My dog definitely is freaking out with the laser sound.😂😂😂
It was really nice of you to complement the guys who did a nice job on the foundation forming… or bracing. Wonder who that crew is lol
Thanks for making all these videos. I am building a house for my family in the Gorge and have found your videos very helpful. I'm taking your advice on the fast form footings here in a few days! Can I borrow that rod tying gun! 🤣
I would in exchange for using your house anytime I go to a concert in the Gorge 😊
@@AwesomeFramers sounds like a fair trade
The line thing with the laser? Yes! Works well with batter board lines to top of footings.
I run just normal air pressure. 120 psi. I was looking for an option to nail into concrete over a powder actuated fastener. Came across a freeman nailer. It’s basically a nail gun without a magazine. You stick a ram set nail in the end and just push it down and shoot. Normally take about 2 shots to sink it but so far has worked great.
It’s super pricey at the start but the MAX high pressure system is awesome! We’ll be investing in it someday soon
You should’ve done your control line at bottom and the the receiver would’ve cached the laser line all the way up .. and that way you could’ve made it on time for supper .. love your videos you teach me things as well .. cheers
Laying out mudsill,on are own project in about a months time,was wondering if that would be achievable with the milwaukee 3 plane laser or other 3 plane laser..
Thanks for providing this channel, its a great benefit for those of us doing the same
Well, that was clear as mud.
Yep, we use that method often.
You should think about setting in 1/2” from outside so plywood sits on the concrete and then siding can come down over it and seal it off from weather
And this is where we part ways. On a foundation this cut up, as long as the concrete contractor used a total station, i would have just ran that sill with Crete after pulling a couple quick numbers. Now, I don't know what the facade is, but if it's brick, you'll have more chances to make that house square. The way I see it is this : the basements we build on are close, sometimes perfect, usually acceptable. We cant move concrete walls. When they're not great, our framing is. I treat a walk-out, wood framed section like this just like a concrete wall. I run it. then square on top. I would imagine this house is stucco or brick.
Edit: I do the chalk line thing too... love that.
Also stabila rock. They honored their warranty for me so fast. ❤️ my r beams
part ways? I don't understand why we'd part ways. I couldn't care less what the foundation is or isn't. I'm going to snap square and parallel.
@@AwesomeFramers i think snapping lines for mud sill is a waste of time, thats where our opinions differ.. we're just extending the foundation. I build the walls, square them, sheath em stand em, sight em THEN nail them to the sill. I will snap on top plates for bond. We're at opposite ends of the country though, I get it. Different methods.
Our houses seem to be a bit bigger, 5-8k ft, steeper, 10- 14/12 usually, and always on basements not slabs. If we have a walkout or daylight it's not as complex as this, usually, and only a wall or two. That's why, for us, we just build it and treat it like a basement wall. Cheers
Great vid. No sil sealer under the mud sil??????
I know whether it’s sill seal or caulking sill plates add another step in the process…..
But with many energy efficient processes you can do them retroactively, but if you can do them on the front end, it’s easier more efficient.
I would guess McCormick Woods for this one
Remember to always have your chalk line properly set before snaping. If not you will have " premature snapulation."
what compressor do you use to be able to shoot those high pressure gun? id like to start using those guns!
Hallo from austria Europa
What about the anchor bolts? You just use Titans everywhere?
Capillary break between concrete and mudsill?
No need because we use pressure treated lumber. It doesn't actually air seal and is a step that doesn't improve the longevity of the treated wood.
I was wondering about the sag in the tape :)
Where is your foam between the mudsill and the concrete? Is it because you have super smooth concrete?
Yeah, I was wondering same thing. I use the pink foam seal or spray foam myself. Knowing this guy I'm sure he has a reason, and you may have answered your question already.
I love your channel and work but I have to ask. Why didn't you put the fancy Stabila on top of the back wall and offset it 12 inches from the outside corner so the laser beam passed by all those foundation steps and held the 90° with a 12 inch offset instead of working in the shadow of the steps with a level? Using the long back as the datum would have been the most accurate for holding the sidewalls at 90°. I know it is rough framing but it might have been easier since you are alone.
I thought I'd explained that in the video. The "fancy" laser fans the beam 90 but for me to hit all the steps I needed to get farther out than 12".
Why is there no sill seal between treated and concrete?
How are you liking those Badgers?
I've been eyeballing those something fierce.
Me too, but I really want to try them out.
Kind of expensive to buy without trying to know which set up I want.
absolutely love them!
How exactly did you get the first corner squared?
why no blue foam roll under the mud sill, not a critic just curious
Tim Uhler you are one of the finest carpenters on CZcams. I've been following you since Fine Homebuilding magazine featured your framing articles back in '92 - big fan for a long time
But Tim, the music in above vid - and in many other AwesomeFramers vids - is annoying and distracting; it's like wait-in-line Comcast customer service music.
AwesomeFramers vids I will never miss; but please reconsider your music choices for the sake of your most ardent fan (s)
With great respect and admiration
Carpnotes
I appreciate the feedback. Maybe you just need better musical taste 😉😉
No sill seal?
No need because we use pressure treated lumber. It doesn't actually air seal and is a step that doesn't improve the longevity of the treated wood.
no sill-seal?
already answered
The measurements for the wall at the back of the garage (16min mark) 164-10.
Ten what? Not 16ths
I’m Canadian!
Please explain
10 16ths. I was taught to just call out in 16ths. So 11 is 11/16....5 is 5/16ths
That's very close to "rock talk" AKA drywall sheet cutting. We just usually go to eights. And if we feel like getting fancy we say a plus after the call out.
Why are you marking 5 and 5/8 wouldnt that throw off your plumb?
Nope. All the framing will be flush to the outside.
@@AwesomeFramers oh gotcha is that basement gonna be framed on a slab?
Do you always work alone?
Nope, in fact rarely.
Where Zack at?
he went to get milk
I think someone else was hosting your live chat and I may have been duped, did anyone else have this problem?
Tim, why was the guy across the street dumping his wheelbarrow over you your side? 🤣🤣🤣
I didn't even notice 😂😂😂😂
Why r there braces on the concrete wall. Could it flex? I know there r a lot of really smart people that watch this channel. So please forgive the dumb question. Thank u!!!!
I dont really understand the point all the laser work. Why not just flush the board with the outside face of the concrete?
Correct everything every chance you get, so your house goes up plumb and square. Foundations are rarely as accurate as they should be.
I've got 3/16 off
Not following why you layout the sill that way. I thought you were supposed to plumb it at the corner.
I don't understand your question.
@@AwesomeFramers you lay your plate down on the "west" wall then use the laser on the south stepped wall. Typically I see the laser used on that South West corner to get the right angle and square both the west and south walls plates. You lay your plate on that west wall by chalk-line and I guess you assume that wall is straight. By measuring 5.5" off the back of it. It's possible that measure may not be accurate/straight. So wondering why not use the laser to also set that line. Does that help?
@@hu5tle- The wall I started on, the rear/highest wall doesn't need to be straight because I snapped a line, then fastened the mudsill to that line. That is now dead straight and I can pull numbers off that and plumb down with the laser to the front. I went parallel to the back to set up the layout station so that the 90 beam would hit the steps.
@@AwesomeFramers I understand that. But you snapped it using your square using the exterior of that wall. So if that wall isn't straight, neither is the chalk-line you snapped 5.5" off the corners. If you're confident that wall is straight, then it's a moot point, but I've rarely formed any long wall and have it be pin straight, especially at the corners where forms have a tendency to flare a little. It's possible I'm missing something.
@@AwesomeFramers Maybe this explanation helps clarify my point?
czcams.com/video/a8IrdYoMLK4/video.html
Judging by your belly you are too efficient at this layout and mudsill install.
was still losing my winter coat ............
Sure isan awful nice video council.
I was just wondering, if, and why, you prefer the stabila "R beam" over the traditional box beam levels? Thanks brother! Great episode!
I started using them when I reviewed them for JLC back in 2014 and just fell in love with them
@@AwesomeFramers thank you for the reply!! I've been using Stabila for around 20 years now, and I will never spend money on anything else. But I'm definitely gonna get a set of those R beams!
@@alexroark366 they are tough levels. We typically can't have nice things. 6' box store levels would last us 3-6 months before bending , or realizing one bubble was off (so frustrating) we've had our 6' R-beam for 2 years now (big bird we call her) and still perfect. Believe me I check.
@@9mmkahr I've seen you guys toss that thing in your videos 😆 I'm gettin one! Thanks man!