Brilliant video, I learnt a lot, excellent tip to take a magnet with you when buying stainless steel items. Thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge.
About the jubilee clips. A stainless clip with a steel screw will have a W4 marking on it. A fully 316 stainless one has a W5 mark, that’s how you keep them apart.
As a former Rigger I would always use anti seize (copper or nickel based) on important threads like turnbuckles. Once you have a galling event that requires a disc grinder cut off wheel and buying a new turnbuckle, you don’t take the risk with dry threads. If you have the tools, doing a light polish on the threads removes any tiny burrs.
Thats interesting. I dont yet have a boat, but i can feel the learning curve will be steep. This video suggests that there is a whole plethora of science about all this. You've earned my sub.
Excellent video. I wish a lot of well paid engineers and designers new this! This video should be part of the curriculum for materials guys. To be honest I’m sure they get this info. But the amount of improper design I come across is incredible and that’s before we start talking about dissimilar metals in contact. As for our boat I’ll have my wife out polishing again when the snow clears ;-).
Enjoyed your video and would like to point out that 304 and 316 grades are now dual certified and will be marked 304/304L and 316/316L. The "L" for both simply means "low carbon". These dual certified grades were developed in the late 70s/early 80s and are particularly important if the stainless is to be welded. During the welding process, the heat affected zone will "draw" carbon molecules causing the weld area to rust if not annealed after welding. "L" grades were developed to limit carbon content to .04 maximum. Your advice to use a magnet to determine the quality is perfect, especially when searching for 316. Monel is an excellent upgrade for metal parts to be used in a seawater application, but its pricing will be substantially higher with limited availability. The boating consumer should also be careful when purchasing stainless steel shackles too as most are manufactured in China from cheap stainless steel. Another important metals topic for the boating community involves the multiple grades of aluminum. The best grade for seawater applications is 5086, a member of the 5000 series. Aluminum parts (masts & booms for example) are generally anodized for enhanced protection and are from the 6000 series of aluminum grades. You mentioned duplex stainless steels, which possess characteristics from both martensitic and austenitic. An example is 2205.
Dick. Hi It is very difficult to cover every aspect in a short video aimed at the non engineer. If we covered all the aspects we would like to we would not get the videos out or would lose most viewers after about 3 mins. Thanks for watching and some good points made.
Hi to you both , we love your videos and watched all through the last two years , it kept us going !! We are from uk and live in cyprus , we are going to sail from may this year. Do you think we would need AIS and Radar ? Keep up the videos and we hope to meet you one day, Phill
Hi. You do not need either however they are both very useful. Radar will show up small boats and markers that do not have AIS and those fishing boats that turn theirs off! Radar is expensive but shows everything. AIS is also expensive to set up and you may want to consider a receiver only that is compatible with your chartplotter. NASA marine of the UK make a cheap AIS receiver that uses NMEA 0183 to transmit to a plotter.
After this, I will always carry a magnet when shopping for stainless. Please, look at some rust preventers that are used by bikers. Recently a lot of progress has been made that should be applicable for us cruisers. Search for XCP Rustblocker or ACF-50. Lots of bike tests on YT. Food for thought. Cheers.
Excellent video, I learned a lot. Also a brilliant tip to take a magnet with you when buying stainless steel items.Thanks for your time and sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Mark. It's Good to get this info out to folks. We have seen a few boats that the keel bolts have been tightened every season and when surveyed 4 of the 10 bolts were broken!!! Sail Safe Mate. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus To my deepest regret, I have nothing to do with Titan. At the moment, for a number of reasons, I am a sofa yachtsman. There was a period when he worked together with three-time Olympic champion Valentin Mankin, and he made his first navigator's pad with a parallel ruler of Admiral Makarov. Nevertheless, the love of the sail is forever. I'm sorry if I didn't live up to your expectations.
Nicely done Ant. Have you tried the magnet trick on your Ultra anchor though? Sticks to the 316 flukes but not to the 318 shank, just to confuse matters!
Mine does not stick anywhere I just checked it. It may be some induced magnetism from the forging or welding. This can happen but it is usually very lightly magnetized. Just be sure the ships compass is moving Steve and does not keep saying the bows are always north :-)
Most of the stain less materials suffer from the same issues. Then there is the cost They and Titanium are not only expensive but extremely difficult to cast, shape and work. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Stainless is fine. However, you have to know its limitations and how it performs. Even now there are big CZcams channels in the US suggesting that you re-torque your keel bolts if they are stainless. Bronze and even Titanium have been used on some boats and that's ok but again both have limitations. It is the old danger of people not knowing what they dont know that is dangerous. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
![You'll Be SHOCKED by This DIRT CHEAP & IMMACULATE Steel Trawler [Full Tour] Learning the Lines](/img/n.gif)
Excellent video. Thanks a lot!
Brilliant video, I learnt a lot, excellent tip to take a magnet with you when buying stainless steel items. Thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge.
About the jubilee clips. A stainless clip with a steel screw will have a W4 marking on it. A fully 316 stainless one has a W5 mark, that’s how you keep them apart.
Very useful thank you. I'll check it out in the chandler's when I am in there next time. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Nicely done. Thank you very much for the well considered information. It sounds like drilling stainless is very similar to drilling titanium.
Thanks for watching. Ant.
Fantastic information, useful, clear and concise 👍
Glad you liked it. Thank you Gary.
As a former Rigger I would always use anti seize (copper or nickel based) on important threads like turnbuckles. Once you have a galling event that requires a disc grinder cut off wheel and buying a new turnbuckle, you don’t take the risk with dry threads.
If you have the tools, doing a light polish on the threads removes any tiny burrs.
Good advice!
Great video! Thanks for the info!
Thanks for watching. New video out in 25 minutes.
We use the magnet on our phone case to test for stainless
Thats a top tip 👍
Thank you for sharing nice tips Ant.
My pleasure!
Fantastic, Thank you so much
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for this enormous important video!!!
I´ve seen lots and lots of boating vids, nobody told me what you did!
Glad it was helpful! Enjoy our other videos too Tom.
Thats interesting. I dont yet have a boat, but i can feel the learning curve will be steep. This video suggests that there is a whole plethora of science about all this. You've earned my sub.
Welcome aboard! be sure to check out the maintenance videos. There are lots of top tips for new boat owners. Sail Safe!
Great video! Just to add, in some parts of the world you will find 316 referred as V4a Stainless. The to be avoided version is V2a or 304.
Yes. Here they actually call it high chrome loclly. A2 & A4 are something we may look at in another video. Thanks for watching.
Wonderful video. Congratulations.
Thank you very much!
Excellent video. I wish a lot of well paid engineers and designers new this! This video should be part of the curriculum for materials guys. To be honest I’m sure they get this info. But the amount of improper design I come across is incredible and that’s before we start talking about dissimilar metals in contact. As for our boat I’ll have my wife out polishing again when the snow clears ;-).
Ha Ha. You said that out loud! 🤣
@@SVImpavidus lol yes indeed. Sometimes we should do that ;-).
Enjoyed your video and would like to point out that 304 and 316 grades are now dual certified and will be marked 304/304L and 316/316L. The "L" for both simply means "low carbon". These dual certified grades were developed in the late 70s/early 80s and are particularly important if the stainless is to be welded. During the welding process, the heat affected zone will "draw" carbon molecules causing the weld area to rust if not annealed after welding. "L" grades were developed to limit carbon content to .04 maximum. Your advice to use a magnet to determine the quality is perfect, especially when searching for 316. Monel is an excellent upgrade for metal parts to be used in a seawater application, but its pricing will be substantially higher with limited availability. The boating consumer should also be careful when purchasing stainless steel shackles too as most are manufactured in China from cheap stainless steel. Another important metals topic for the boating community involves the multiple grades of aluminum. The best grade for seawater applications is 5086, a member of the 5000 series. Aluminum parts (masts & booms for example) are generally anodized for enhanced protection and are from the 6000 series of aluminum grades. You mentioned duplex stainless steels, which possess characteristics from both martensitic and austenitic. An example is 2205.
Dick. Hi It is very difficult to cover every aspect in a short video aimed at the non engineer. If we covered all the aspects we would like to we would not get the videos out or would lose most viewers after about 3 mins. Thanks for watching and some good points made.
Hi to you both , we love your videos and watched all through the last two years , it kept us going !! We are from uk and live in cyprus , we are going to sail from may this year.
Do you think we would need AIS and Radar ?
Keep up the videos and we hope to meet you one day, Phill
Hi. You do not need either however they are both very useful. Radar will show up small boats and markers that do not have AIS and those fishing boats that turn theirs off! Radar is expensive but shows everything. AIS is also expensive to set up and you may want to consider a receiver only that is compatible with your chartplotter. NASA marine of the UK make a cheap AIS receiver that uses NMEA 0183 to transmit to a plotter.
Thank you
Thanks!
No problem!
After this, I will always carry a magnet when shopping for stainless. Please, look at some rust preventers that are used by bikers. Recently a lot of progress has been made that should be applicable for us cruisers. Search for XCP Rustblocker or ACF-50. Lots of bike tests on YT. Food for thought. Cheers.
I will be looking at some of those compounds. Even though I no longer have a bike 😢 Sail Safe mate.
Excellent video, I learned a lot. Also a brilliant tip to take a magnet with you when buying stainless steel items.Thanks for your time and sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Mark. It's Good to get this info out to folks. We have seen a few boats that the keel bolts have been tightened every season and when surveyed 4 of the 10 bolts were broken!!! Sail Safe Mate. Ant.
Great explanation for us numpties Ant thanks 👍
Any time!
Thanks for the info.
Your welcome Darren. Hope it helps. Ant.
Well done
Glad you liked it. Sail Safe.
A very informative issue, if there was an opportunity, I would put 20 likes... I would like to see an overview of titanium products.
Great suggestion! Let's make a deal? You supply the Titanium products we will do the video. 😄 Thanks for watching and a top comment. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus To my deepest regret, I have nothing to do with Titan. At the moment, for a number of reasons, I am a sofa yachtsman. There was a period when he worked together with three-time Olympic champion Valentin Mankin, and he made his first navigator's pad with a parallel ruler of Admiral Makarov. Nevertheless, the love of the sail is forever. I'm sorry if I didn't live up to your expectations.
Good video Ant - I always find galling particularly well galling (if you have access nut splitters can get you out of a hole).
Good point Norman. Sail Safe mate. Ant.
Great information and well presented 😊
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching Charlie.
All metal bolts will stretch under torque, not only SS.
But not by the same amount and not with the same results. Galling is a major issue with SS. Thanks for watching.
Nicely done Ant. Have you tried the magnet trick on your Ultra anchor though? Sticks to the 316 flukes but not to the 318 shank, just to confuse matters!
Mine does not stick anywhere I just checked it. It may be some induced magnetism from the forging or welding. This can happen but it is usually very lightly magnetized. Just be sure the ships compass is moving Steve and does not keep saying the bows are always north :-)
@@SVImpavidus interesting, maybe they’re using duplex steel for the whole thing now? Mine is 318 shank and 316L fluke
Very nice video! Thanks 🙂
Glad you liked it!
Good video I learned stuff too!
Glad to hear it! LOL
Very very informative as usual
Thank You.
What about A high end stainless or Titanium in those severe conditions?
Most of the stain less materials suffer from the same issues. Then there is the cost They and Titanium are not only expensive but extremely difficult to cast, shape and work. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
👍👍👏👏⛵⚓⛵
I feel like you hate stainless! if so whats the alternative? (Keel bolt)
Stainless is fine. However, you have to know its limitations and how it performs. Even now there are big CZcams channels in the US suggesting that you re-torque your keel bolts if they are stainless. Bronze and even Titanium have been used on some boats and that's ok but again both have limitations. It is the old danger of people not knowing what they dont know that is dangerous. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid