I've got a MS170, great saw. This informative video shows to save the small engine shop labour repair cost by performing the maintenance yourself . Never take it in for a carb kit. It's cheaper to buy a brand new carb and slap it in. These saws need continuous cleaning, tooth sharpening, quality gas & oil (best is can premix, pump gas is okay), and functioning chain oil ports. I'm not certain about the operation to maintenance time ratio, but something like 5-10 min. per hour of use to keep the saw in safe, good working order. I disconnect the throttle rod (the choke rod is easy) by opening the handle moulding, disconnect that end first, then the throttle lever, taking care not to let the hook spring fly away. I never change the inlet lever. If pivots it's working. The diaphragms and gaskets deteriorate and what the kit is great for. The main weakness with the 170 carbs, of different kinds depending on saw serial# when bought new, is the 1-way unserviceable fixed jet. The little brass screw isn't the jet, it's the orifice extender intake. You can poke a thin wire through that, clear any debris, but if the real jet below in the carb casing is blocked it's buy a new carb time. The kit is great for the gaskets. When the jet has clogged and packed it in you'll know even before a kit replacement. If after perfectly installing the kit parts, and the saw doesn't fire up, the carb is shot, all because of an unserviceable jet. The plus side is the carbs are relatively cheap and easy to replace.
I am a technical trainer for the healthcare industry who has little experience with small engines.....I just want to say...this is one of the best videos on how to fix small engines..Keep up the awesome work. Thank you.
Kyle you saved the day man! I brought mine for service and after diagnosis I was quoted at $160 (CDN) for a carb kit and install... so I bought the $20 carb kit and thought I can do this myself. Surprise, I was given my chainsaw back in parts with the carb disassembled in a bag! They said that they don’t include the reassembly for the $30 diagnosis fee. Anyway, I guess I won’t go back there for service! Let’s say that I was a bit discouraged but though ‘I can do this’ and I did THANKS TO YOU!!! It works like a charm, I saved $100 and learned something today. Cheers
Many thanks from Victoria, Australia. I follow your instructions after my saw started playing up. Checked and cleaned filters, spark arrestor and fuel with no luck. Then followed along with your video and the saw is running like a dream. You saved me atleast $100 but also taught me a new skill. All the best to you mate.
Hey Kyle, I had the same problem with my MS170 earlier this year. My father in law and I replaced the carb and got the saw running well again. I actually found this video after we did the work. It definitely would have helped to have seen this first as the throttle and choke linkage clips are somewhat of a pain in the neck to work with when you don't know the tricks. It is good to know a cleaning could resolve this issue if it happens again, though. Thanks for taking the time to make the video and share your knowledge!
...thanks Kyle for a great DIY video......am trying to restore an MS170 that had very little maintenance..... and your detailed instructions for the carb are gonna really help... :)
I've been doing a lot of cutting recently. Out of nowhere the saw starts acting up. Didn't want to idle and stalled when you gave it throttle. Followed your video and runs like a new saw! Thanks for the help! Great video Brother!!!
Unreal. You have to remember how many stupid people there are out there. You could post the sky is blue and game on, people just can't help themselves. Screw em, that's my motto. Your video is "very" informative, to the point. I had my saw running like new in about an hour. Keep up the good work and thanks again!
Hey Kyle, perfect video, thank you!! I watched his morning before work and it was detailed enough to be able to remember how to do everything once I got to my saw. Until I started putting everything back together, the little piece you mention at 15:15, I put it on facing to the right, and the air filter box wouldn't go back on, so I just took it back off and turned it facing away from the motor, hoping for the best, and it was right! I got home today and am rechecking the video and I got it right the second time. But after all that it still won't fire up. I think I found a fuel leak tho, so I need to look into that now. But I have a nice clean carb now and a new found confidence. Thank you again!!
Add me to the list of happy viewers who have fixed their Stihl chainsaws with the help of your video. Do you have a video about fixing the bar oiling system ?
Thank you for the helpful video. My chainsaw wouldn't go full throttle. Followed your instructions and it's working great again! Thank you! I did have the spring fly off at high speed when it slipped out of my pinched fingers. Somehow, I found it on the floor in less than 2 minutes.
Kyle in one of your previous videos in cleaning the exhaust port screen. You used acetone which took some considerable tine to get it cleaned. Using a heat gun and stainless steel wire brush works great/ The cleaning of this screen solves all my problems of power loss. Runs great now. Thanks for the tip.
@@KyleHallwoodworker Ran into 1 more bog down after about 30 minutes ,, did a little more research and removed the muffler ,, couldn't see thru the flash suppressor .. have you done a vid on that particular problem,, again Thanks for making these maintaince tips seem so easy
Awesome video! I haven't been into the bowels of the saw before but I removed the carb yesterday--it's NASTY!! After watching your video I have a lot more confidence about taking the carb apart myself. I'll let you know how it goes....thanks again! Good work with the camera, btw
Thanks for the video my chainsaw is the same ms170 and as soon as open throttle it dies been told need new carburettor£120 so going to try your way to see if can get it working again it's first time it's broken down in13years
The diaphragm that actuates the needle valve has the metal plate with holes facing the needle valve on disassembly, but you installed it in the opposite direction. Also there is a thicker gasket that provides spacing? between diaphragm and carb body. You might confirm the stack up order. Path I have been down many times "which way?" May not make a difference, as your saw ran. Some of mine dont.
5:28 It’s that plastic seat on the bottom that’s prone to breaking as pointed out. Poorly designed with no support underneath. Other videos on just that issue and how to help avoid it.
Thank you! I would’ve appreciated more close ups just to bolster confidence but common sense (square peg square hole type) got me through. You weren’t lying about that little spring! Mine flung off into low earth orbit! My 8 year old boy and I crawled around the barn floor for almost an hour before we found it HAHAHA! Filthy carb though I wish they made a better filter with a thicker medium and rubber seals around the perimeter. Now my saw runs like a sexually assaulted primate! Thanks again!
Heck yeah man ! You’re welcome! Seriously enjoy comments like this ! I receive a bunch of hater comments on videos like this one . I might do another video like this in the future with some close ups to help other people like your self out . Thanks again glad I could help
Hi I like your videos, very helpful, and informative. Now I have a choke lever set up that I am having trouble with, which is preventing me from setting the choke lever, and throttle to be set as they should be. If you can show or explain how this set up is done, it would stop me tearing my hair out.🥵, and I would be very grateful to you. plz.🤔
I just serviced my grandma's ms170 and the first thing I noticed is there's no f****** carburetor screws to adjust it just the idle screw but hers has a big hesitation whenever you throttle up like it stutters for a second and I did notice the car was dirty but it wasn't wasn't hanging up off of the carburetor like yours was man that freaking sucks I like the video though I just wish there was a way to retune the carburetor on that 170 while I have it running
The majority of your problem is probably due to your running ethanol fuel. Always chec the carb nuts to make sure they are tight. The air filter box on the ms 170/180 is a rather poor design. It feeds air from the bottom, which is why the bottom side of the air filter is the one that gets dirty. I put gaskets on both sides of the carb to make sure it does not leak on the air box side. Never run the saw with the engine side removed because the air box is a plenum for filtered air. Getting sawdust into the carb via of the gas line is almost impossible, unless the gas filter comes off the fuel line. If I pull a carb I cook it in my ultra sonic cleaner and put new diaphragms in it. That’s my rule.
I dont run ethanol fuel in my saws . The carbs get junk in them from the fine sawdust created from carving and then me dusting them off with my air compressor. Like you said the filter design on the 170/180 is a bad one . When I hit the saw with air after a day of carving it would move the filter and blast dust into the carb
Thanks for the video. Just a heads up. Read the warnings on that carb cleaner about skin contact. It says to avoid skin contact at all costs and if any gets on your skin to rinse it for 15 minutes. Not 15 seconds. 15 minutes. That suggests its mighty poisonous.
If you have sawdust in the fuel pump side you are getting that thru the fuel tank no way to get sawdust in there any other way. Nothing to do with air filter
Thank's Kyle, It's good to see the steps first hand before i give my 180 the same cleaning. Been cutting lots of cedar logs recently and the dust is a problem for sure. Thank's again. ::SUBBED::
Nola Jane it should be chips but dust is still created. The fine dust is what can get sucked into the carb especially if filter placement is not correct. Things things happen . A sharp saw is. The best saw .
Two issues: 1. You installed the carb pump gasket upside down. 2. You didn’t check the spark arrestor screen for carbon accumulation (a very common cause of high speed “bogging”). The MS170 and MS180 share the same carburetor, which is unique in missing both hi and lo speed adjustment screws. Bogging is a common “lean-running” condition in these chainsaws, and it cannot be easily tuned out by simply richening the mixture screws as in most chainsaw carburetors. Rather, the etiology of the lean running condition must be identified. While it is indeed most often caused by a clogged carburetor, it can also be caused by oil seal and/or clamshell vacuum leaks, low piston compression/scoring, a clogged spark arrester, or even a seriously overly over rich oil:gas mixture. A good mechanic should consider all of these in diagnosing any MS170 or MS180 that bogs with during throttle-up. A more thorough knowledge of the workings of an MS170 was needed in this video. Dr. K.
On a stihl 170. The engine runs fast.. replaced the carb..still runs fast. Turning the idle screw down doesnt help. It still runs almost at full throttle. Turning the idle screw down until it stalls out ... any suggestion on what may be the cause?
Kyle my carb will not just slide off the studs like that. Am I missing something? I have the ms170 bought new in 2016 it's time for some work but I can't get it to slide off. Thanks.
Good Video Kyle! I have a MS170 that isn't holding its idle and is hard to start. I have done a carb kit, new plug, new fuel filter, cleaned the muffler, adjusted the carb screw. Any other ideas? I am going to try getting a new fuel line from the tank to the carb. Doesn't seem like it is getting enough fuel. Thanks!
ColeCraft I have had to take the carb back off and re clean before . Could have something out of place or a small piece of saw dust in there . It happens sometimes.
If sawdust made its way into the carb (sealed system) it came in through the fuel tank. Start by cleaning or replacing the fuel filter first. It just makes sense,right?
ulitepilot aka Zombie Dave in some cases yes . The filter on these ms 170 saws tend to move out of placement when I blow the saw off after a day of chainsaw carving hence the sawdust in the carb
The most common cause of unstable vacuum in a chainsaw with a fixed jet carburetor, is vacuum leak. This usually occurs via oil seal and/or clam-shell sealant deterioration, but can also occur due to burned/scored pistons/cylinders, broken piston rings, loose carburetors, leaking decompression valves, and/or other air leaks allowing variably unmetered air into the crankcase during power strokes. A variable, untunable idle is usually a sign of a serious vacuum leak somewhere.
You should use a proper Stihl filter which is laminated, also thicker as well as rigid, you will have no problem.Those aftermarket filters are absolute rubbish and should never be used.
I own one of these POS saws and regret every minute. Warranty repaired three tines and still will not start and stay running. Looking for a non oem replacement carb or else it's going to the trash.
Those 2 little oval plates or covers inside your carb that has redish looking silicone or something around them, how do I remove them since my kit came with new ones & I have dinged up my old ones trying to get them out .. lol Thanks 4 everything + 1 sub !!
Those are welch plugs. Easy to remove and replace. Visit my channel to see how I take them out. NO DRILLING! Under the welch plug are the jet passages for H & L speed. Also for the built in idle. I hope this helps.
I know you mean we’ll but I’ve evolved and I just can’t watch super slow videos that take forever to get to the point great video for the less evolved people really I mean that with all do respect I’m outta here
I've got a MS170, great saw. This informative video shows to save the small engine shop labour repair cost by performing the maintenance yourself . Never take it in for a carb kit. It's cheaper to buy a brand new carb and slap it in.
These saws need continuous cleaning, tooth sharpening, quality gas & oil (best is can premix, pump gas is okay), and functioning chain oil ports. I'm not certain about the operation to maintenance time ratio, but something like 5-10 min. per hour of use to keep the saw in safe, good working order.
I disconnect the throttle rod (the choke rod is easy) by opening the handle moulding, disconnect that end first, then the throttle lever, taking care not to let the hook spring fly away. I never change the inlet lever. If pivots it's working.
The diaphragms and gaskets deteriorate and what the kit is great for.
The main weakness with the 170 carbs, of different kinds depending on saw serial# when bought new, is the 1-way unserviceable fixed jet. The little brass screw isn't the jet, it's the orifice extender intake. You can poke a thin wire through that, clear any debris, but if the real jet below in the carb casing is blocked it's buy a new carb time.
The kit is great for the gaskets. When the jet has clogged and packed it in you'll know even before a kit replacement. If after perfectly installing the kit parts, and the saw doesn't fire up, the carb is shot, all because of an unserviceable jet. The plus side is the carbs are relatively cheap and easy to replace.
Took me an afternoon, but then, I am an 85 year old grandmother. Works like a charm. Thanks for the video
You’re welcome! I’m glad I could help
I am a technical trainer for the healthcare industry who has little experience with small engines.....I just want to say...this is one of the best videos on how to fix small engines..Keep up the awesome work. Thank you.
You’re welcome. Thank you for the positive feed back .
Kyle you saved the day man! I brought mine for service and after diagnosis I was quoted at $160 (CDN) for a carb kit and install... so I bought the $20 carb kit and thought I can do this myself. Surprise, I was given my chainsaw back in parts with the carb disassembled in a bag! They said that they don’t include the reassembly for the $30 diagnosis fee. Anyway, I guess I won’t go back there for service! Let’s say that I was a bit discouraged but though ‘I can do this’ and I did THANKS TO YOU!!! It works like a charm, I saved $100 and learned something today. Cheers
Heck yea ! I love hearing this stuff ! This is what I make videos for . So happy I could help you out .😁
You did a good job and you got positive results and you don’t need apologize.Been a mechanic for years and everyone is different…
Many thanks from Victoria, Australia. I follow your instructions after my saw started playing up. Checked and cleaned filters, spark arrestor and fuel with no luck. Then followed along with your video and the saw is running like a dream. You saved me atleast $100 but also taught me a new skill. All the best to you mate.
You’re welcome glad my video could help you out ! 👍🏻😁
I completed the project this morning. I was amazed by how easy it was - due to your excellent instruction. Thanks again!
Wyoming Life awesome! Glad the video helped you out .👍🏻😁
I was just googleing why my saw wouldn't start.. now I learned something and really enjoyed this video.. thanks bro
Liked and subscribed
You’re welcome and thank you
Thanks Kyle! 17 minutes later and she runs like a champ. Your hints on the linkages made all the difference!
paxfish awesome! Glad I could help
paxfish 6):
Great video, I was able to follow the instructions exactly and resolve my issue. Running great again!
Glad it helped
Hey Kyle, I had the same problem with my MS170 earlier this year. My father in law and I replaced the carb and got the saw running well again. I actually found this video after we did the work. It definitely would have helped to have seen this first as the throttle and choke linkage clips are somewhat of a pain in the neck to work with when you don't know the tricks. It is good to know a cleaning could resolve this issue if it happens again, though. Thanks for taking the time to make the video and share your knowledge!
Just got back from the workshop with a smile on my face. Removed the carby and cleaned as you showed. Worked a treat thanks
Jeff Bowers awesome your welcome!
Thank you sir you saved me at least 40 bucks.
Great job, my dad's 170 doesn't want to start so it looks like it's go time...
Continued success
Thanks . good luck with it 😁
...thanks Kyle for a great DIY video......am trying to restore an MS170 that had very little maintenance.....
and your detailed instructions for the carb are gonna really help... :)
You’re welcome Ken
I've been doing a lot of cutting recently. Out of nowhere the saw starts acting up. Didn't want to idle and stalled when you gave it throttle. Followed your video and runs like a new saw! Thanks for the help! Great video Brother!!!
You’re welcome glad it helped you out . I catch a lot of crap over this video so it’s nice to hear when it helps someone. Thank you
Unreal. You have to remember how many stupid people there are out there. You could post the sky is blue and game on, people just can't help themselves. Screw em, that's my motto. Your video is "very" informative, to the point. I had my saw running like new in about an hour. Keep up the good work and thanks again!
Hey Kyle, perfect video, thank you!! I watched his morning before work and it was detailed enough to be able to remember how to do everything once I got to my saw. Until I started putting everything back together, the little piece you mention at 15:15, I put it on facing to the right, and the air filter box wouldn't go back on, so I just took it back off and turned it facing away from the motor, hoping for the best, and it was right! I got home today and am rechecking the video and I got it right the second time.
But after all that it still won't fire up. I think I found a fuel leak tho, so I need to look into that now.
But I have a nice clean carb now and a new found confidence. Thank you again!!
You’re welcome glad I could help you out 👍🏻
Add me to the list of happy viewers who have fixed their Stihl chainsaws with the help of your video. Do you have a video about fixing the bar oiling system ?
I do not. Perhaps I will do one in the future though . Let me know what’s going on with yours .
Also I’m glad my video helped you out thank you for the comment!
Great video with very clear instructions.
Thank you for the helpful video. My chainsaw wouldn't go full throttle. Followed your instructions and it's working great again! Thank you! I did have the spring fly off at high speed when it slipped out of my pinched fingers. Somehow, I found it on the floor in less than 2 minutes.
Awesome I’m glad my video helped!! That darn spring ! I know how that can be lol
Kyle in one of your previous videos in cleaning the exhaust port screen. You used acetone which took some considerable tine to get it cleaned. Using a heat gun and stainless steel wire brush works great/ The cleaning of this screen solves all my problems of power loss. Runs great now. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the comment! Glad I could help
Thanks from Australia for such an informative video and well presented video
You’re welcome! Thank you for watching!
Kyle ,,,, Many Thanks for the video ,, my little friend is running like new again ,,, watched this twice then tackled the job,,
Awesome! I’m glad I could help you out !
@@KyleHallwoodworker Ran into 1 more bog down after about 30 minutes ,, did a little more research and removed the muffler ,, couldn't see thru the flash suppressor
.. have you done a vid on that particular problem,, again Thanks for making these maintaince tips seem so easy
Thomas Warren I have not maybe I will though it is a common problem. Thanks for the comment Thomas
Awesome video! I haven't been into the bowels of the saw before but I removed the carb yesterday--it's NASTY!! After watching your video I have a lot more confidence about taking the carb apart myself. I'll let you know how it goes....thanks again! Good work with the camera, btw
Theresa Brooks thank you for the comment . Remember to just take your time with it .
Thanks Kyle! This video helped me fix my MS170
Sassysmum1 awesome these are the comments I love to see ! Glad I could help you out ! Thanks for watching!
Great video.i followed ya step by step now my saw runs again thanks cause I thought it was junk.🤘
Awesome glad I could help you out 👍🏻
Perfect instruction. I can do this now!
Sawdust on top of the metering diaphram is normal as the diaphram is allowed to move because of the air breather hole in its cover
When carb is disassembled the needle arm should allways be checked for its base line set point
Excellent video. Step by step perfect instructions. Got it running perfect again. Idles mint and problem solved at full throttle. Thank you!
You’re welcome! Glad I could help you out !
Thanks for the video my chainsaw is the same ms170 and as soon as open throttle it dies been told need new carburettor£120 so going to try your way to see if can get it working again it's first time it's broken down in13years
Hope it works for you Roy .
Very detailed. Thanks for posting
Thank you so much
Thank you man
Helpful video, thank you. Got my new carb coming from Amazon.
John Ware Your welcome glad it could help you out .
Well done, now I know how to do this if I need to.
The diaphragm that actuates the needle valve has the metal plate with holes facing the needle valve on disassembly, but you installed it in the opposite direction. Also there is a thicker gasket that provides spacing? between diaphragm and carb body. You might confirm the stack up order. Path I have been down many times "which way?" May not make a difference, as your saw ran. Some of mine dont.
Thanks for video. I’m trying to fix my stihl just a few years old die on me bc sit in garage for 3 yrs.
5:28 It’s that plastic seat on the bottom that’s prone to breaking as pointed out. Poorly designed with no support underneath. Other videos on just that issue and how to help avoid it.
Thanks
Thank you
Your welcome
Thank you! I would’ve appreciated more close ups just to bolster confidence but common sense (square peg square hole type) got me through. You weren’t lying about that little spring! Mine flung off into low earth orbit! My 8 year old boy and I crawled around the barn floor for almost an hour before we found it HAHAHA! Filthy carb though I wish they made a better filter with a thicker medium and rubber seals around the perimeter. Now my saw runs like a sexually assaulted primate! Thanks again!
Heck yeah man ! You’re welcome! Seriously enjoy comments like this ! I receive a bunch of hater comments on videos like this one . I might do another video like this in the future with some close ups to help other people like your self out . Thanks again glad I could help
great video for guys like me who cant fix anything..lol. very helpfull
Thanks glad I could help
Nicely done. Thank you!
Wyoming Life thank you and your welcome !
Hi I like your videos, very helpful, and informative. Now I have a choke lever set up that I am having trouble with, which is preventing me from setting the choke lever, and throttle to be set as they should be. If you can show or explain how this set up is done, it would stop me tearing my hair out.🥵, and I would be very grateful to you. plz.🤔
great job making this video...thumbs up
Thank you
I just serviced my grandma's ms170 and the first thing I noticed is there's no f****** carburetor screws to adjust it just the idle screw but hers has a big hesitation whenever you throttle up like it stutters for a second and I did notice the car was dirty but it wasn't wasn't hanging up off of the carburetor like yours was man that freaking sucks I like the video though I just wish there was a way to retune the carburetor on that 170 while I have it running
The majority of your problem is probably due to your running ethanol fuel. Always chec the carb nuts to make sure they are tight. The air filter box on the ms 170/180 is a rather poor design. It feeds air from the bottom, which is why the bottom side of the air filter is the one that gets dirty. I put gaskets on both sides of the carb to make sure it does not leak on the air box side. Never run the saw with the engine side removed because the air box is a plenum for filtered air. Getting sawdust into the carb via of the gas line is almost impossible, unless the gas filter comes off the fuel line. If I pull a carb I cook it in my ultra sonic cleaner and put new diaphragms in it. That’s my rule.
I dont run ethanol fuel in my saws . The carbs get junk in them from the fine sawdust created from carving and then me dusting them off with my air compressor. Like you said the filter design on the 170/180 is a bad one . When I hit the saw with air after a day of carving it would move the filter and blast dust into the carb
Thank you for this video! Immensely helpful.
You’re welcome
Thanks for the video. Just a heads up. Read the warnings on that carb cleaner about skin contact. It says to avoid skin contact at all costs and if any gets on your skin to rinse it for 15 minutes. Not 15 seconds. 15 minutes. That suggests its mighty poisonous.
Got it , thank you for the comment Antonio
Exelente video 👍👌
Thank you
If you have sawdust in the fuel pump side you are getting that thru the fuel tank no way to get sawdust in there any other way. Nothing to do with air filter
great job, thank you.
That wasn't the seal, its the fuel pump. Nice job on cleaning the carb
Thanks
now the carb has been blown off....... ooooooo yeaaaaa, party time x
Good luck !
Thank's Kyle, It's good to see the steps first hand before i give my 180 the same cleaning. Been cutting lots of cedar logs recently and the dust is a problem for sure.
Thank's again.
::SUBBED::
Hope it helps !
I read that it should be little wood chips if your saw is sharp enough, otherwise it cuts with lots of dust. I am learning at the moment.
Nola Jane it should be chips but dust is still created. The fine dust is what can get sucked into the carb especially if filter placement is not correct. Things things happen . A sharp saw is. The best saw .
Two issues: 1. You installed the carb pump gasket upside down. 2. You didn’t check the spark arrestor screen for carbon accumulation (a very common cause of high speed “bogging”). The MS170 and MS180 share the same carburetor, which is unique in missing both hi and lo speed adjustment screws. Bogging is a common “lean-running” condition in these chainsaws, and it cannot be easily tuned out by simply richening the mixture screws as in most chainsaw carburetors. Rather, the etiology of the lean running condition must be identified. While it is indeed most often caused by a clogged carburetor, it can also be caused by oil seal and/or clamshell vacuum leaks, low piston compression/scoring, a clogged spark arrester, or even a seriously overly over rich oil:gas mixture. A good mechanic should consider all of these in diagnosing any MS170 or MS180 that bogs with during throttle-up. A more thorough knowledge of the workings of an MS170 was needed in this video. Dr. K.
Excellent video
On a stihl 170. The engine runs fast.. replaced the carb..still runs fast. Turning the idle screw down doesnt help. It still runs almost at full throttle. Turning the idle screw down until it stalls out ... any suggestion on what may be the cause?
Hello
I have a stil 170 when it starts go out, if I do not accelerate, how many turns against the clock to adjust its carburetor
thanks for your video
Wish I could help you out this is not info I know off hand .
Spraying all over the internal carb areas DOES NOT get into its low or high speed fuel circuits.
i bought a new carb for my ms170 it is the correct replacement still does not run any thoughts it has good spark
Check the spark arrester it’s the screen in the exhaust
What about the air/fuel adjustment?
what bar is that you have on there? I like the pointy contour
The canon 12” dime tip bar
@@KyleHallwoodworker thanks!!
THANKS
You're welcome!
thanks man.
No problem
Kyle my carb will not just slide off the studs like that. Am I missing something? I have the ms170 bought new in 2016 it's time for some work but I can't get it to slide off. Thanks.
Something might still be attached. The small throttle rods , gas line .
Good Video Kyle!
I have a MS170 that isn't holding its idle and is hard to start. I have done a carb kit, new plug, new fuel filter, cleaned the muffler, adjusted the carb screw. Any other ideas?
I am going to try getting a new fuel line from the tank to the carb. Doesn't seem like it is getting enough fuel.
Thanks!
ColeCraft I have had to take the carb back off and re clean before . Could have something out of place or a small piece of saw dust in there . It happens sometimes.
Did you pull off your muffler and clean the mesh under it?? If you can't see through the mesh screen it's need's to be clean.
If sawdust made its way into the carb (sealed system) it came in through the fuel tank. Start by cleaning or replacing the fuel filter first. It just makes sense,right?
ulitepilot aka Zombie Dave in some cases yes . The filter on these ms 170 saws tend to move out of placement when I blow the saw off after a day of chainsaw carving hence the sawdust in the carb
The most common cause of unstable vacuum in a chainsaw with a fixed jet carburetor, is vacuum leak. This usually occurs via oil seal and/or clam-shell sealant deterioration, but can also occur due to burned/scored pistons/cylinders, broken piston rings, loose carburetors, leaking decompression valves, and/or other air leaks allowing variably unmetered air into the crankcase during power strokes. A variable, untunable idle is usually a sign of a serious vacuum leak somewhere.
You should use a proper Stihl filter which is laminated, also thicker as well as rigid, you will have no problem.Those aftermarket filters are absolute rubbish and should never be used.
So where was the link for the car. Kit?
In the description of the video. In the drop down area
I own one of these POS saws and regret every minute. Warranty repaired three tines and still will not start and stay running. Looking for a non oem replacement carb or else it's going to the trash.
WHY DIDN'T YOU TAKE THE BRASS JET OUT AND CLEAN IT AND THE HOLES,THEY SAID THEY GET PLUGGED TOO,JUST FOUND OUT
Just didn’t . Been cleaning my saws this way with out an issue .
When I start my saw the chain keeps running even when you not giving it gas
Need to engage the chain break when starting your saw . This will prevent the chain from spinning
The LA needs to be adjust back on the carburetor until your chains stop moving.
Those 2 little oval plates or covers inside your carb that has redish looking silicone or something around them, how do I remove them since my kit came with new ones & I have dinged up my old ones trying to get them out .. lol
Thanks 4 everything + 1 sub !!
violeman honestly I haven’t messed with them . So I’m not sure .
Thanks 4 the quick reply bud!!
Those are welch plugs. Easy to remove and replace. Visit my channel to see how I take them out. NO DRILLING! Under the welch plug are the jet passages for H & L speed. Also for the built in idle. I hope this helps.
ulitepilot aka Zombie Dave thanks for the insight 👍🏻😁
Where do I get a bar and chain like that?
Jump on google . Cannon dime tip detail bar . You’ll need a specific chain and a 1/4 pitch sprocket. Sometimes you can get all three as a kit .
Ok great thank you I'm going to look right know
I'm going to copy and past it just to make sure haha (cannon 12 inch dime tip carving bar kit. 1/4 pitch with chain & sprocket)
My 018 does the same thing with a brand new carb
you failed to name all the parts,you got air to blow out carb to get debris out of channels
Buster bob thanks for the input. 👍🏻 I will try to be more informative in the future.
JohnOceanYang channel. Hmong USA 🇺🇸 top spin look it up. 😁
Yikes, theres so much sawdust inside it still.. why not clean it properly while ur at it lol...
nobody can tell u about welsh plugs!!!!!!
Sure they can tell me all about them ..
like i said!!!@@KyleHallwoodworker
I know you mean we’ll but I’ve evolved and I just can’t watch super slow videos that take forever to get to the point great video for the less evolved people really I mean that with all do respect I’m outta here
I get it . This video is from 2017 I was just starting this whole YT thing . Have you been a subscriber long ?