Dude, this is a much more thorough video than anyone else has posted about this upgrade! You thought of a lot of things and didn't leave us hanging! I did the install and nobody else out there is helping us with the troubleshooting afterward! No joke, you fixed my problems, I feel like we owe you for this man!!!
Great video mate! I just subscribed to your channel. Really appreciated all your input about the direct drive. You definitely deserve more than 4K subs. Here's to your success! Sim
This is by far the best explanation/tutorial on installing and programming the Micro Swiss on an Ender, Thank you so much for the hard work, from all of us to you we really appreciate it!
Just bought one of these kits. Most satisfying unboxing ever. The parts are gorgeous. Been waiting a few days to put this on. Thanks for the video. The pace was perfect. I like the input about the wire harness. Didn't know about the retraction part either. Looks like this will do better for high temps and flexibles as well.
I'm glade I stumbled across this video as it has all the details the other install videos missed. If anyone reading this comment wants some good advice passed down by a little birdie, have a magnetic on stand by for the screws your going to drop. You can also take a piece of paper, label the screws as they come out, and punch them through the paper so you don't lose them.
Thanks for the video, I ordered mine on black Friday it was $65ish no tax, free shipping for the combo on their official site. Made the decision not to take a chance with the clones much easier.
@@DiyProJames I think they have another deal for both $67, if anyone is interested. Extruder separate is $40.42 vs $57.75 and both for $67. I assume no tax and free shipping on this as well. Coupon code - Use code "SEASON" at checkout to apply30% off Link here www.matterhackers.com/store/l/micro-swiss-direct-drive-extruder-for-creality/sk/MDZMAR3N?rcode=GAT9HR&gclid=CjwKCAiA_Kz-BRAJEiwAhJNY7-28E5cRJN2AQ_hlzvAyUkczA25JEFpJODgu2Bz8tuMT2B6VYMRo5hoC9g4QAvD_BwE
James, I just installed my Micro Swiiss hotend and Direct Drive. I compiled Marlin 2.1.1 for my Ender 3 Pro. Everything seemed to work, but something very strange is happening when I try to calibrate the Extruder. I have a 0.4mm nozzle, but when I extrude 50mm of filament, it comes out at 1.0mm, really thick. Any ideas what would cause this. I have not yet sent any gcode except for the Micro Swiss gcode file to set the extruder to 130mm.
you have it microswiss kit,although it leaves some distance from the heatbed making it difficult to properly level the bed , could you tell me the position for the heat bed. im not using any firmware(FOUND IT )your help was great but did you get rid of the ghost stringing?
Hi, I have a question about your last step at 49:35 . With changing those 4 lines in start gcode, you just changed the 3D printing of those two printed start lines (to avoid printing them beside the bed). If I understand correctly, this will not affect all other x coordinates in G-code. And what if I want to print something with full size of printing surface? Woudn't the position be offset a little bit? I think this new offset (nozzle new to previous position when X, Y limit switch is pressed) should be changed somewhere else, maybe in Firmware? Not sure.
No that does not change the values of the x and y stops. You can think of the wipe as another print model. Granted it be a straight line. We print it to wipe the nozzle before a print. You can also think of it like a skirt. The wipe function does not have to be there. If you want erase it. I show you how to set the x, y, z limit switch in this video. czcams.com/video/3J9NhwbziEY/video.html The wipe feature does not offset the nozzle.
Yes, I realize that.. and I mention it in the beginning.. The original instructions were to leave all the wires and bowden tube in the back... You can follow the instructions in the manual by doing so or relocate the wires to the front... But you still have the option of following the original instructions in the manual or go a different way of moving to the front. And the mounts for rewiring to the front was not available at the time of the edit... I had to start designing and print it after the fact.
@@yehudabillet8145 In order to modify firmware you need to download a copy of the firmware. Then use either arduino ide or vs code to change the parameters. Then upload it to your printer. I have a couple of videos on modifying the firmware, but firmware depends on the hardware installed. So yours maybe different.. It might be easier to find a preconfigured firmware that matches your hardware.. This video might give you a general idea of how firmware works.. czcams.com/video/OWqI_DO3OoQ/video.html
@@yehudabillet8145 do a crtl+f and use the find feature... it maybe on a different line if it's a different version of firmware it maybe on a different line
No, the z switch is removed. I'm using the z switch terminal on the board. If your using an old 8 bit board there is no workaround, but to use the z switch terminal on that board.
@@DiyProJames sorry to bug! Are you using the z-min port that the original switch connects to? I used the five pin connector, if I unhook the z min switch the printer will not go down.
@@ericburnett4555 Use the method that works for you. Are you using the stock 1.1.4 board or a different board? I ask because the stock 1.1.4 board does not have a 5 pin connecter on the board. The pins on the bltouch are separated by a 3 pin connector and a 2 pin connector(on the board). The z stop switch is removed and replaced with the 2 pin connector of the bl touch. You can remove the z switch. There is a small screw on the plastic piece of the switch. This z switch is being replaced by the bltouch.
@@DiyProJames man I really appreciate you! I went back and re-watched a couple of your videos and did as you described and it is now using the BL probe like you said! I just need to make some offset adjustments now. And I’m using a 4.2.7 board micro Swiss DD and hot-end. Coming from a loud 1.4 board. My kit did not come with the bl touch bracket to mount to so I printed a new fan housing w/bl touch bracket. Now I just need to make to correct adjustments! You Rock! I’ll be looking for a way to contribute to you for your help!
@@DiyProJames I had already done a modification of adding a LED light strip to the top bar of my machine, and now the bowden tube, the wiring harness, and the gear tension arm sort of butt up against the top bar. If it can be rotated 90 CCW from the video, that would solve a lot of my problems.
Well, never mind. Just realized that only gets the wiring harness out of the way. The bowden tube and tension arm would not be altered. Guess I'll leave as is.
No, but you may have to change the z offset a bit. Also, if you decide to change your mounting xy offset for the bltouch then you may have to change the firmware accordingly.
My X and Y settings aren't right. Its home position is way off. It's back and left farther than the OEM position for the ender 3. All my prints start off of the glass bed.
@@DiyProJames thanks! I figured out how you can set the home position (0,0) and save to eeprom using M commands at the terminal. I need to go through my config.h and adv-config.h and fine tune my firmware settings still, so I'll set my home position in there when I do that.
@@DiyProJames that's the point, the gear looks different than yours too, it's shorter and there's no screw or hole or anything to indicate that you can take it off. As if the printer is a different revision and they just decided to change it and make it unremoveable. At this point I already just ordered a replacement motor to not make the kit go to waaste.
I put this micro swiss direct drive on my printer and now I can not figure out how to get it adjusted in the firmware. Im apparently too soopid to figure it out. Hasnt anyone made a firmware out there already that any jackass such as myself can just download and flash. Im about ready to just put the stock extruder back on.
You don't have to do anything if your printer is working properly. What I meant was do the pid tune first before you do the e steps. If your hotend is too cool. You might get under extrusion. What I meant was make sure your hotend is getting to proper temperature before the e step calibration.
Dude, this is a much more thorough video than anyone else has posted about this upgrade! You thought of a lot of things and didn't leave us hanging! I did the install and nobody else out there is helping us with the troubleshooting afterward! No joke, you fixed my problems, I feel like we owe you for this man!!!
I agree, the detail given was more than others have provided. And the lighting was second to none.. Easy sub
Great video mate! I just subscribed to your channel.
Really appreciated all your input about the direct drive. You definitely deserve more than 4K subs.
Here's to your success!
Sim
This is by far the best explanation/tutorial on installing and programming the Micro Swiss on an Ender, Thank you so much for the hard work, from all of us to you we really appreciate it!
Glad it helped!
Already installed the direct drive, but this is probably the best video I've seen on this. The last bit was the info I needed.
Just bought one of these kits. Most satisfying unboxing ever. The parts are gorgeous. Been waiting a few days to put this on. Thanks for the video. The pace was perfect. I like the input about the wire harness. Didn't know about the retraction part either. Looks like this will do better for high temps and flexibles as well.
Hope you enjoy it!
I'm glade I stumbled across this video as it has all the details the other install videos missed. If anyone reading this comment wants some good advice passed down by a little birdie, have a magnetic on stand by for the screws your going to drop. You can also take a piece of paper, label the screws as they come out, and punch them through the paper so you don't lose them.
thanks.
Welcome back James - hope you are well - missed your videos.
Thanks I'm doing alright... back with the videos...
Thanks for the video, I ordered mine on black Friday it was $65ish no tax, free shipping for the combo on their official site. Made the decision not to take a chance with the clones much easier.
you got a sweet deal for $65..
@@DiyProJames I think they have another deal for both $67, if anyone is interested.
Extruder separate is $40.42 vs $57.75 and both for $67. I assume no tax and free shipping on this as well.
Coupon code -
Use code "SEASON" at checkout to apply30% off
Link here www.matterhackers.com/store/l/micro-swiss-direct-drive-extruder-for-creality/sk/MDZMAR3N?rcode=GAT9HR&gclid=CjwKCAiA_Kz-BRAJEiwAhJNY7-28E5cRJN2AQ_hlzvAyUkczA25JEFpJODgu2Bz8tuMT2B6VYMRo5hoC9g4QAvD_BwE
Great video James! This was extremely helpful!
Glad it was helpful! Hope you get some great looking prints!
Thank you!!!
thank you for explaining some parts in more dtail
Glad it was helpful!
2 questions.
Will the wires melt being inside fan against the hot end?
Can the campicorn tube be used instead of Bowden?
James, I just installed my Micro Swiiss hotend and Direct Drive. I compiled Marlin 2.1.1 for my Ender 3 Pro. Everything seemed to work, but something very strange is happening when I try to calibrate the Extruder. I have a 0.4mm nozzle, but when I extrude 50mm of filament, it comes out at 1.0mm, really thick. Any ideas what would cause this. I have not yet sent any gcode except for the Micro Swiss gcode file to set the extruder to 130mm.
you have it microswiss kit,although it leaves some distance from the heatbed making it difficult to properly level the bed , could you tell me the position for the heat bed.
im not using any firmware(FOUND IT )your help was great but did you get rid of the ghost stringing?
I question why you didn't use heat sink compound when you installed the heating element and the thermistor.
appreciate it! very helpful
You're welcome. Happy Printing...
Are these setting compatible with ender 5 plus too?? I have so much trouble printing things right after upgrading to this kit.
Hi, I have a question about your last step at 49:35 . With changing those 4 lines in start gcode, you just changed the 3D printing of those two printed start lines (to avoid printing them beside the bed). If I understand correctly, this will not affect all other x coordinates in G-code. And what if I want to print something with full size of printing surface? Woudn't the position be offset a little bit? I think this new offset (nozzle new to previous position when X, Y limit switch is pressed) should be changed somewhere else, maybe in Firmware? Not sure.
No that does not change the values of the x and y stops. You can think of the wipe as another print model. Granted it be a straight line. We print it to wipe the nozzle before a print. You can also think of it like a skirt. The wipe function does not have to be there. If you want erase it. I show you how to set the x, y, z limit switch in this video. czcams.com/video/3J9NhwbziEY/video.html The wipe feature does not offset the nozzle.
Thanks
why take off the top rail. redundant if you wire it proper beforehand. thanks for the edit. love doing it the hard way
Yes, I realize that.. and I mention it in the beginning.. The original instructions were to leave all the wires and bowden tube in the back... You can follow the instructions in the manual by doing so or relocate the wires to the front... But you still have the option of following the original instructions in the manual or go a different way of moving to the front. And the mounts for rewiring to the front was not available at the time of the edit... I had to start designing and print it after the fact.
Thank you
You're welcome
Hello just want to ask. Is this compatible on ender 3 v2v
At 48:06 I can’t find that area of the firmware anywhere in regular I modified marlin firmware, how can I make that change?
Have you modified firmware before and know where the configuration.h file is?
No I haven’t, would it maybe be because I’m not using aurdino ide?
@@yehudabillet8145 In order to modify firmware you need to download a copy of the firmware. Then use either arduino ide or vs code to change the parameters. Then upload it to your printer. I have a couple of videos on modifying the firmware, but firmware depends on the hardware installed. So yours maybe different.. It might be easier to find a preconfigured firmware that matches your hardware.. This video might give you a general idea of how firmware works.. czcams.com/video/OWqI_DO3OoQ/video.html
@@DiyProJames I know how to edit firmware, but I can’t find the part that you edited in regular marlin firmware
@@yehudabillet8145 do a crtl+f and use the find feature... it maybe on a different line if it's a different version of firmware it maybe on a different line
very informative videos James! i was wondering if you are using the original Z-stop switch in combination with the Bl touch?
No, the z switch is removed. I'm using the z switch terminal on the board. If your using an old 8 bit board there is no workaround, but to use the z switch terminal on that board.
@@DiyProJames sorry to bug! Are you using the z-min port that the original switch connects to? I used the five pin connector, if I unhook the z min switch the printer will not go down.
@@ericburnett4555 Use the method that works for you. Are you using the stock 1.1.4 board or a different board? I ask because the stock 1.1.4 board does not have a 5 pin connecter on the board. The pins on the bltouch are separated by a 3 pin connector and a 2 pin connector(on the board). The z stop switch is removed and replaced with the 2 pin connector of the bl touch. You can remove the z switch. There is a small screw on the plastic piece of the switch. This z switch is being replaced by the bltouch.
@@DiyProJames man I really appreciate you! I went back and re-watched a couple of your videos and did as you described and it is now using the BL probe like you said! I just need to make some offset adjustments now. And I’m using a 4.2.7 board micro Swiss DD and hot-end. Coming from a loud 1.4 board. My kit did not come with the bl touch bracket to mount to so I printed a new fan housing w/bl touch bracket. Now I just need to make to correct adjustments! You Rock! I’ll be looking for a way to contribute to you for your help!
@@ericburnett4555 You're welcome. Have fun with your "new printer"
missed the part where you tighten the thermocouple
I mention it at 33:10 One of the difficulties of trying to get footage without your hand getting in the way of the camera.. Best is to mention it.
So you can’t mount the stepper motor 90degrees so that the wiring harness is out to the side?
No you can if you want.. They are just 4 screw holes in the exact same locations. I just think it's better to have it come out on top.
@@DiyProJames oh ok, I am heavily considering this upgrade in the near future with a th3d dual z kit.
@@jakemedley7423 I think you'll like it. Just to clarify. You can turn the motor sideways, but the wires should come out to the front. Just in case...
@@DiyProJames I had already done a modification of adding a LED light strip to the top bar of my machine, and now the bowden tube, the wiring harness, and the gear tension arm sort of butt up against the top bar. If it can be rotated 90 CCW from the video, that would solve a lot of my problems.
Well, never mind. Just realized that only gets the wiring harness out of the way. The bowden tube and tension arm would not be altered. Guess I'll leave as is.
If I previously installed BL Touch and upgraded firmware for that, do I need to change firmware for the direct drive install?
No, but you may have to change the z offset a bit. Also, if you decide to change your mounting xy offset for the bltouch then you may have to change the firmware accordingly.
Having issues with mine stops pushing filament halfway through the print. Retraction set to 2 Retraction speed 30 mm/s.
Not sure what the problem is.. Saying it's stopping halfway is a vague and unable to diagnose the problem.
My X and Y settings aren't right. Its home position is way off. It's back and left farther than the OEM position for the ender 3. All my prints start off of the glass bed.
You should be able to change your x and y via the firmware.
@@DiyProJames thanks! I figured out how you can set the home position (0,0) and save to eeprom using M commands at the terminal. I need to go through my config.h and adv-config.h and fine tune my firmware settings still, so I'll set my home position in there when I do that.
I can't take the gear off my motor, it has no screw, it's like a whole piece with shaft and gear at the end with no way to take it off.
Ender 3 pro.
Look for a small hole on the side. There should be a small grub screw. Black screw with an allen key fitting.
@@DiyProJames that's the point, the gear looks different than yours too, it's shorter and there's no screw or hole or anything to indicate that you can take it off. As if the printer is a different revision and they just decided to change it and make it unremoveable. At this point I already just ordered a replacement motor to not make the kit go to waaste.
@@nyaughty8561 Not sure if it's a revision, but it seems they used the motor that drives the belt for print head. Is this a new printer?
@@DiyProJames I got it couple of weeks ago, if that's what you mean.
@@nyaughty8561 contact MicroSwiss they should be able to help you
I'm still fairly new to 3d printing and I have no clue on how to get to the marlin configuration page. can someone help me?
You would need to download firmware from marlin website marlinfw.org/
My stepper motor cog is fixed and doesnt have a grub screw?
Maybe a different model or after market?
I put this micro swiss direct drive on my printer and now I can not figure out how to get it adjusted in the firmware. Im apparently too soopid to figure it out. Hasnt anyone made a firmware out there already that any jackass such as myself can just download and flash. Im about ready to just put the stock extruder back on.
I have precompiled firmware links in my other videos. Please check the descriptions. You need to find if it's compatible with your upgrades.
Why do you say you have to PID tune?
You don't have to do anything if your printer is working properly. What I meant was do the pid tune first before you do the e steps. If your hotend is too cool. You might get under extrusion. What I meant was make sure your hotend is getting to proper temperature before the e step calibration.
Hi I have a ender 3 pro 1.1.4 board bltouch and direct drive. Can I use your firmware
Yes, it should work on a 1.1.4 board if your using the pin 32 setup.
Thank you so much for answering my question and may I ask you something else where can I get the firmware hex file?
@@vik3706 Check the link in the description above.. It's with the stl files..
Thanks
@@vik3706 you're welcome
Wow too many ads. I just stop watching.
sorry...
What a cry baby! It’s Not many
My ender 3 came with a 3x stepper motor don't see a clear way to get brass cog off :(