Hey bud, I saw your hands burn a bit touching those budget products. If you do that again, make sure you wear a necklace of Zip Tape and anoint yourself with the water from a heat-pump water heater and you’ll be protected. Jokes aside, thanks for another great video Matt!
Been remodeling for 40 years and have opened up many 100 year old homes that used 30# tar paper. This stuff is nearly unaffected by age and water. Whether under shakes, stucco or wood siding, it's remarkably intact over time. The oiled nature of the product repels water instantly, is unaffected by cedar tannins that seem to weaken housewrap, and offers some self sealing qualities around fasteners. Some of the failings that I have seen is around windows. Remember, old windows weren't flanged, and that modern detail along with new sealants and tapes makes all the difference in keeping the water out. In contrast, I have seen many a housewrap job that has failed miserably in just 20 years time. You young guys may doubt its durability, but from my experience, if it's installed correctly, it'll outlast the installer.
@mattRisinger @buildshow Matt do you think this is over kill or spot on for protecting WAY in to the future? Built my house 21 years ago. My grandfather's both told me to use the tar wrap, I asked them both what about white house-wrap ( let house breath a little & block wind). Then put 1" layer of foam board Finally put a layer of the #30 tar paper with 1½" nail w/plastic-rings. Then of course put your final exterior materials that you want to use. 🤷♂️Know on wood.... Never have felt any wind coming through anyplace & no other issues at all. FYI, I also used old school tar for exterior basement waterproofing a year later my brother decided to use a company that sprays a tar type of solution on his basement & over the years has had 4 different leaks. 🤷♂️I think alot of times old school is better than the new🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽😎🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
If you listen to the Build Show Podcast episode with David Nicastro, who probably has researched weather barriers more than anyone. He said the best defense against water is 2 layers of 15lb felt over CDX. 15lb is his choice because it bends easier without tearing.
Hugh fan of felt asphalt paper 15 or 30 Lb, I only use felt paper when replacing my windows. Glad to see a real builder using the correct product for building walls. I love seeing white paper being absolute by green board with tape! Shows that white paper was complete BS! It only was intended to save time not create a better building over time. Fyi; DuPont NF tape is great for window and door pans, it’s a little pricey, but it can’t be beat in my opinion!
This video is excellent! Would you consider doing one about waterproofing around other penetrations like dryer vents, hose bibs, and electrical boxes for outdoor light fixtures?
The video explained the concept and products in a way that make sense to me and make me feel much more confident in moving forward on my shed, a comfort and confidence that I just wasn't getting from other videos. Thank you for the clarity and explanations.
Hey Matt, have you heard of a product called ‘ArmorWall Plus’ it’s by a company called MaxLife Industries (recently acquired by DuPont). It’s basically like the Zip-R sheathing panels, but instead of OSB, it’s Magnesium Oxide Board, which has many benefits over wood products. Would be great if you could do a comparison or take a close look at it. Love the Build Show by the way, I’ve learnt a lot watching your channel. Look forward to each episode. All the best
He's sponsored by Huber, mortal enemies with DuPont, so any review of a DuPont product is totally suspect. They wouldn't even let him say Tyvek in this video. Instead we got "white housewrap".
Pulte homes here in MI, I drove through their condo build. I have never seen such a shoddy job on the house wrap. I prob saw 20% OSB exposed due to crummy cuts and it blowing off all over the place.
Never thought I would see Matt use tar paper, but this is a really good option for some old houses where changing tar paper or asphalt-impregnated gypsum is not an option.
I’m remodeling a house built in 1980 which has celotex as the main exterior sheathing other than the corners which are sheathed with plywood for shear, the blue barrier is likely perfect for sealing up the bays and joints to get a better air seal on this drafty old rambler.
The one sec pause after placing the first flashing after 7:50 haha have double check we did that right lol love it though good seeing common product being demonstrated
I'm curious to know. How many of these products would benefit from using fiberglass mesh as a base. I'm surprised it's not used as a rebar for these waterproof coatings regularly. One would think using fiberglass mesh could structurally stabilize these roll type applications almost indefinitely . I'm actually interested . CGC?! Anyone ?! Pros?! Pollywall? Would it be a detriment, overbuild, chemically incompatible, or a reasonable practice. How about tar paper on an icf wall?... with strapped sidding?
I don't know if I would trust that liquid flashing long term with tar paper. I was expecting it to rip the tar paper when you pulled it. Nope pulled right off
I wonder if there is any trick to get it stick even more to the tar paper and to create a stronger bond. Alike brushing some solvent or some sort of primer onto the tar paper.
I’ve been using a hybrid method for my sheathing. The bottom 2ft I used Zip, regular OSB for the rest. Used Zip tape for all the sill flashings, (sloped sills 5-degrees), as well as all the sheathing seams. The Zip tape sticks amazingly well to the regular OSB, so I expect a high degree of air tightness. I’m using an LP Smartside (comes in 4’x8’ panels) for cladding. I’m thinking that with the solid siding, I shouldn’t have to worry about any house wrap. I do have 2’ overhangs, and typical 8’ walls. Thoughts???
Your joints will be ok with zip tape but untreated face of normal osb will soak up moisture and try to expand and will not last like you want it to. I’d still use a house wrap. I’m not a fan of smart side either. I’ve had durability issues with it so I’d recommend using hardie. A little more pricy but much better value over smart side
I did my first 2 story addition with zip board and liquid flash for seams, corners and windows. My guys wasted the hell out of it. Second project I used bargain house wrap and zip stretch at the windows and PTAC openings. Massive water intrusion because I didn't get to inspect it well from my subs due to my vacation (not letting that happen again). With prices as they are, I may do zip sheathing around doors, windows and PTACs with zip stretch tape, then tyvek everywhere else. Haven't made up my mind yet. I'm using vinyl siding for cladding.
Dunno... Seems to me the last 5 minutes is a pretty good demonstration of why NOT to use Polyseal on tar paper. I was expecting that the stuff would cling tenaciously and that I'd see huge chunks of paper coming off the wall but the dried adhesive peeled away almost perfectly cleanly with no trouble! It barely sticks at all! How is this desirable?
Matt, Love the content! So many contractors don't take the time on the important details. I once saw a contractor use roofing ice and water shield as a 'sill pan', but it didn't seem right. Any reason that would be good or bad? Clearly Polywall is a superior product to ice and water shield
it looks to me like it sticks worse to the tar paper than anything else. I would be curious to see what it looks like when trying to peal the window out.
A lot of store-bought sill pans seem to create a drip edge... on the bottom side. Making some kind of Z-flashing above the window is something I've seen done, but not very often for some reason (probably just more time and money)
Is this the same as Prosoco (red/pinkish)? I swear he said the same Japanese windshield story with it... I want to say someone told me the that the fluid applied Zip was almost the same formula as well.
Already out of stock wtg Matt! lol Solid looking product a novice like myself can't mess up too bad but I'll impress on my dog house rebuild so thanks!
When you refer to house wrap, are you refering to the typical plastic or foil wrap or are you including vapour permiable fabric like ametalin vhp wrap?
@@buildshow Well, the Christian in you was speaking louder than what your mouth was saying, but who knows if I'm right, I cannot read your mind. To me personally it sounded like your inner voice was saying " I'm being paid to say something positive about this Hyundai "truck" but I'm struggling for words..." On the other hand it is good that your conscience still seems to work because many famous CZcamsrs have forgotten they had it.
Question from an german, why are you not sealing the Windows to the osb and then seal the tar paper to the window with tape. I dont think that using a sealend on tar paper is a good idea. Because of fibers the sealend will Not seal in the long run
1: that's not a good overlap, that's only 3 inches. 2: you sliced the heck out of that tar paper and at that point, you've lost the overlap. the tar paper should go below the windowsill, then the drip pan, then the window, then the flashing over the window flanges, then tar paper from the window up. also, paper the walls as you side to prevent wind damage, and put drain mesh or laths over it.
Matt I live in NW Ohio, my house was built in 1963 under my siding which is pressed Masonite all original from 1963 is a 3/4 thick fiber board 4x8 sheets black on the outside natural tan on the inside. No tar paper or house wrap of any kind. When I put siding on should I remove the fiber board and install something better?? What should I use that is better?
A little off topic question; I'm looking at bringing a pre-built storage building (stick framed) onto my property to convert into a guest house. Plans are to use spray foam insulation. I have an option of getting it wrapped with Tyvek during construction. Is it worth wrapping and using open cell foam or skip the wrap and just go with the spray foam? Thanks!
Just a heads up, been doing those tiny homes build for about 15 years. Yes have them wrap it, but the floors like to condensate with interior temperature being warmer than exterior. Gorilla floors an the LP floors are the worst. Seal your floor with a heavy exterior paint then cover with plywood. I would Close cell underneath. I'm in Texas. Let me know if you have any questions, I'd like to be helpful.
@@ogk9com It will be about 24" above grade so the bottom can be sprayed with closed foam. I opted for the 3/4" tongue and groove plywood floor. Thanks for the info. I'm also in Texas. (Central)
I do not like tar paper because of experience. I've done a dozen flips in the Houston region that were built in the 50's to the 70's and tarpaper was used. What I found was that the tar paper had gotten brittle and many times cracked and even sometimes pie shaped sections had fallen down in the wall so in those sections the rain barrier was non-existent. I have never opened up a Tyvek wall that was decades old but I think it might last longer. The thing is, Matt is promoting houses that last multiple generations / owners / 100 years and if a product is deteriorating in 30 or 40 years few houses with those materials are going to be doing their job at 60 to 100. So I'll pass on the tar paper
I would use tar paper if I had the choice, but changing it isn't in every budget. This is a good option when you are only replacing certain parts of older houses since a lot of things don't stick to tar paper.
Well.. housewrap is still fairly new in comparison. I've seen complaints on them already, but they mostly asided that due to the poor techniques used in the beginning stages of mass production. But that still goes to show that no product is completely impervious.
Is there any possibility of the sealant peeling off the tarpaper over time behind the siding? Specifically the sealant spread around the window flange. I suspect it adheres better when spread out
I've spent so many years trying to take ideas into reality, not always successful, but the idea of some modular window frame with simple slip on seal like this, it's a no brainer and just optimizing two processes
Actually Matt, I'd love to tell you about the product we are building and now it can extend, in future, to CZcams..czcams.com/video/dwMEM6Wh0Lc/video.html (PS this is our AI and AR systems working live, no movie magic, just alpha version working)
I've been using Rhino U20 for a wrap. Zip tape down my overlaps, arc flash, zip tape 3 sides of window leaving bottom open but never used the blue barrier. Will it stick to U20? It's similar to Tyvek just better. Any input is appreciated y'all?
I like Tyvek over the Rhino that I have seen, although it is the commercial grade Tyvek and I don't know what the Rhino was. I think this Poly-wall, Prosoco, and the Zip liquid flash are all really similar, and they stick to a lot of different materials. I was surprised when he said not to use it on Tyvek, but you can use regular caulking and tape so no biggie.
Getting a hold of a glass bottle that is not a beer bottle has gotten pretty hard these days. This reminds me of a remodel of a 1970s townhome I was doing about 20 years ago and found someone's lunch between the floor/ceiling joists. They had McDonald's and a Coke - in a glass bottle. I got a good chuckle out of it, wondering if they left it there on purpose for someone to find decades later or it was just someone lazy...
I like "old school" and new ways to do old school better. Newfangled products and techniques are fine. But let's not throw the baby out with the bathwater.
i cringed while he had that gun pointing at his face... I realize they have safeguards but anything like that is sometimes subject to failure... no safety glasses either...
Tar paper gets dried out and brittle, turns to dust after decades, it's obsolete, modern synthetic materials outshine old tar paper, for roofs and sides..tar paper is the rotary phone of wrap
@@cengeb lol. 1965 brick house on Gulf Coast, no side sheathing, just tar paper. Still a bit supple ( not quite like new but definitely NOT brittle). Might want to rethink that assertion
God bless you, my name is Alvaro Ibarra, I live in Guatemala, due to the current crisis in our countries, I had to self-employ myself as a self-employed vendor in neighborhood stores, I sell different products with which I bring a plate of food to my children, I do not have a fixed salary and sales are very low these days, I would like to start a small business selling pizzas on the street with a small oven, or Mexican cakes with a gas griddle but what I earn is not enough for me put together and start one of these small businesses and have a more stable income for my children, that's why I beg if some kind person would give me a little help with the minimum to put together for the iron I would appreciate it with all my heart.
Hey bud, I saw your hands burn a bit touching those budget products. If you do that again, make sure you wear a necklace of Zip Tape and anoint yourself with the water from a heat-pump water heater and you’ll be protected.
Jokes aside, thanks for another great video Matt!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Hilarious man 😂
I wonder if this is the first time ever Matt hasn’t use the most expensive product available
😬
Instead of using cap fasteners, don't install it right until siding installation if possible. Metal especially can telegraph the caps through.
Been remodeling for 40 years and have opened up many 100 year old homes that used 30# tar paper. This stuff is nearly unaffected by age and water. Whether under shakes, stucco or wood siding, it's remarkably intact over time. The oiled nature of the product repels water instantly, is unaffected by cedar tannins that seem to weaken housewrap, and offers some self sealing qualities around fasteners. Some of the failings that I have seen is around windows. Remember, old windows weren't flanged, and that modern detail along with new sealants and tapes makes all the difference in keeping the water out. In contrast, I have seen many a housewrap job that has failed miserably in just 20 years time. You young guys may doubt its durability, but from my experience, if it's installed correctly, it'll outlast the installer.
I agree. My grandfather's has it and it is still keeping the house dry. It just doesn't do a lot for air sealing.
where I live, tyvek can fail in as little as 2 years.
Hopefully no beer was wasted during this testing.
@mattRisinger @buildshow Matt do you think this is over kill or spot on for protecting WAY in to the future?
Built my house 21 years ago. My grandfather's both told me to use the tar wrap, I asked them both what about white house-wrap ( let house breath a little & block wind).
Then put 1" layer of foam board
Finally put a layer of the #30 tar paper with 1½" nail w/plastic-rings.
Then of course put your final exterior materials that you want to use.
🤷♂️Know on wood.... Never have felt any wind coming through anyplace & no other issues at all.
FYI, I also used old school tar for exterior basement waterproofing a year later my brother decided to use a company that sprays a tar type of solution on his basement & over the years has had 4 different leaks. 🤷♂️I think alot of times old school is better than the new🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽😎🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
If you listen to the Build Show Podcast episode with David Nicastro, who probably has researched weather barriers more than anyone. He said the best defense against water is 2 layers of 15lb felt over CDX. 15lb is his choice because it bends easier without tearing.
Hugh fan of felt asphalt paper 15 or 30 Lb, I only use felt paper when replacing my windows. Glad to see a real builder using the correct product for building walls. I love seeing white paper being absolute by green board with tape! Shows that white paper was complete BS! It only was intended to save time not create a better building over time.
Fyi; DuPont NF tape is great for window and door pans, it’s a little pricey, but it can’t be beat in my opinion!
This video is excellent! Would you consider doing one about waterproofing around other penetrations like dryer vents, hose bibs, and electrical boxes for outdoor light fixtures?
The video explained the concept and products in a way that make sense to me and make me feel much more confident in moving forward on my shed, a comfort and confidence that I just wasn't getting from other videos. Thank you for the clarity and explanations.
Thanks for all the great tips. I'm a fan of the tried and true tar paper. Many Blessings
Hey Matt, have you heard of a product called ‘ArmorWall Plus’ it’s by a company called MaxLife Industries (recently acquired by DuPont).
It’s basically like the Zip-R sheathing panels, but instead of OSB, it’s Magnesium Oxide Board, which has many benefits over wood products.
Would be great if you could do a comparison or take a close look at it.
Love the Build Show by the way, I’ve learnt a lot watching your channel. Look forward to each episode.
All the best
It sounds very interesting. I'd also like to see the Build show take a look into it.
Don’t know it. Huber came out with a structural mgo board too. I’m putting in my Best Of IBS videos coming in two weeks. I’ll look up ArmorWall
He's sponsored by Huber, mortal enemies with DuPont, so any review of a DuPont product is totally suspect. They wouldn't even let him say Tyvek in this video. Instead we got "white housewrap".
@@MrTexasDan 🤣🤣🤣 ...on a serious note Huber makes Exacor which is an mgo board so he could cover that.
Thank you, looking forward to it.
More like this please. Focused on a specific topic, informative, and keep them not-long.
Love Matt's how to videos. Helps me a lot.
Thanks for the video. Definitely appreciated seeing a review on something I can afford.
Old school tar all the way.
At least 56 degrees north anyways. Haha.
Thank you Sir.
Pulte homes here in MI, I drove through their condo build. I have never seen such a shoddy job on the house wrap. I prob saw 20% OSB exposed due to crummy cuts and it blowing off all over the place.
Never thought I would see Matt use tar paper, but this is a really good option for some old houses where changing tar paper or asphalt-impregnated gypsum is not an option.
its always an option just maybe opening a can of worms with wat paper was maid with. aka aspestos.
That didn't stick as well as I thought (hoped). I use 3m 8067 on felt with a j roller it works very well
I’m remodeling a house built in 1980 which has celotex as the main exterior sheathing other than the corners which are sheathed with plywood for shear, the blue barrier is likely perfect for sealing up the bays and joints to get a better air seal on this drafty old rambler.
The one sec pause after placing the first flashing after 7:50 haha have double check we did that right lol love it though good seeing common product being demonstrated
The company I work for requires us to install Tyvek house wrap and tarpaper along with heat activated window flashing on the joints
Dang. Your videos always make me want to go build a house!!!
Mrs Charlotte's is legit and her method works like magic I keep on earning every single week with her new strategy
I'm not here to converse for her but to testify just for what I'm sure of, she's trust worthy and best option ever seen
She has made success easier than we thought
Extremely flammable material.
This video is pure gold. Thanks.
We used old school tar paper behind our new cedar shakes! I insisted upon it because we were using double course cedar shakes
Hopefully no beer was wasted in the making of this video.😁
Nice demonstration! When can we expect the hidden safe room video you mentioned in the past?
YES A sloped sill would be extra protection or a back dam. Thanks
I'm curious to know. How many of these products would benefit from using fiberglass mesh as a base. I'm surprised it's not used as a rebar for these waterproof coatings regularly. One would think using fiberglass mesh could structurally stabilize these roll type applications almost indefinitely . I'm actually interested . CGC?! Anyone ?! Pros?! Pollywall? Would it be a detriment, overbuild, chemically incompatible, or a reasonable practice. How about tar paper on an icf wall?... with strapped sidding?
I don't know if I would trust that liquid flashing long term with tar paper. I was expecting it to rip the tar paper when you pulled it. Nope pulled right off
Yes but it bonded to the paper and we have gravity on our side.
I wonder if there is any trick to get it stick even more to the tar paper and to create a stronger bond. Alike brushing some solvent or some sort of primer onto the tar paper.
I’ve been using a hybrid method for my sheathing. The bottom 2ft I used Zip, regular OSB for the rest. Used Zip tape for all the sill flashings, (sloped sills 5-degrees), as well as all the sheathing seams. The Zip tape sticks amazingly well to the regular OSB, so I expect a high degree of air tightness. I’m using an LP Smartside (comes in 4’x8’ panels) for cladding. I’m thinking that with the solid siding, I shouldn’t have to worry about any house wrap. I do have 2’ overhangs, and typical 8’ walls. Thoughts???
Your joints will be ok with zip tape but untreated face of normal osb will soak up moisture and try to expand and will not last like you want it to. I’d still use a house wrap. I’m not a fan of smart side either. I’ve had durability issues with it so I’d recommend using hardie. A little more pricy but much better value over smart side
I did my first 2 story addition with zip board and liquid flash for seams, corners and windows. My guys wasted the hell out of it. Second project I used bargain house wrap and zip stretch at the windows and PTAC openings. Massive water intrusion because I didn't get to inspect it well from my subs due to my vacation (not letting that happen again). With prices as they are, I may do zip sheathing around doors, windows and PTACs with zip stretch tape, then tyvek everywhere else. Haven't made up my mind yet. I'm using vinyl siding for cladding.
Dunno... Seems to me the last 5 minutes is a pretty good demonstration of why NOT to use Polyseal on tar paper. I was expecting that the stuff would cling tenaciously and that I'd see huge chunks of paper coming off the wall but the dried adhesive peeled away almost perfectly cleanly with no trouble! It barely sticks at all! How is this desirable?
Matt, Love the content! So many contractors don't take the time on the important details. I once saw a contractor use roofing ice and water shield as a 'sill pan', but it didn't seem right. Any reason that would be good or bad? Clearly Polywall is a superior product to ice and water shield
Not a bad idea back in the day they used to flash this still would have copper coated paper
it looks to me like it sticks worse to the tar paper than anything else.
I would be curious to see what it looks like when trying to peal the window out.
Great budget video! Whats your choice for 1 step above tyvek?
for the adhesive test on steel, glass and plastic, shouldn't you have stuck it to the OSB instead of the tar paper?
8:10
Answered my question. “What about slope?”
Thanks !
Great lesson!
Matt I'm sure you have talked about it before but what about a liquid flash for white house wrap thanks
I can source every one of these products except that Build Show hat! I want ONE SO bad!
What about integrating drip edges above and below into this setup? Could that make it more bomber?
A lot of store-bought sill pans seem to create a drip edge... on the bottom side. Making some kind of Z-flashing above the window is something I've seen done, but not very often for some reason (probably just more time and money)
Like the history part of it was made in Japan Thoses engineering people come up with some interesting tools also
Nerer, Never use FELT PAPER for House wrapping, will Cause Black Mold Problems and Rott issues 😢😢
Is this the same as Prosoco (red/pinkish)? I swear he said the same Japanese windshield story with it... I want to say someone told me the that the fluid applied Zip was almost the same formula as well.
indeed, here is specifically referenced for those who are budget conscience, also is probably getting paid to advertise
You should do more stucco videos.
Can tar paper be used on the inside of the exterior wall?
Already out of stock wtg Matt! lol Solid looking product a novice like myself can't mess up too bad but I'll impress on my dog house rebuild so thanks!
Plastic cap nails broke when the sun hit the plastic on my patio. I would use metal cap nails. But then again, its not in direct sun.
Love Watchung your videos give me alot of ideas to do to my house
Good job
When you refer to house wrap, are you refering to the typical plastic or foil wrap or are you including vapour permiable fabric like ametalin vhp wrap?
"Tyvek" (DuPont) or "Typar"(Berry Global) are the common white house wrap products used in North America.
More videos like this!!!!
Does OSB, plywood or framing lumber need to be primed to work with that adhesive?
One more tip is to cut at least a half inch or more of the paper off so the tape sticks to the sheeting for a stronger bond.
That’s a great tip! Should have done that!
I will never use those thick flashing again I had a hell of a time to get the door plumb since the bottom sat out so far.
Good one Matt! More valuable than your truck review. ;-)
You have to admit they were fun!
@@buildshow Well, the Christian in you was speaking louder than what your mouth was saying, but who knows if I'm right, I cannot read your mind. To me personally it sounded like your inner voice was saying " I'm being paid to say something positive about this Hyundai "truck" but I'm struggling for words..." On the other hand it is good that your conscience still seems to work because many famous CZcamsrs have forgotten they had it.
We need a detailed, step by step install video for Schuco windows.
This is the kind of content I need!
that nail through the flashing isn't a potential leak point?
boy will those windows be fun to replace
Hey Matt - question _ can you use tar paper to the inside of the basement walls to protect from any moisture going the porous cinder block foundation?
Nothing really sticks to tar paper because of the petroleum oil base.
I was loving this right up until the Michelob Ultra. 😂
Question from an german, why are you not sealing the Windows to the osb and then seal the tar paper to the window with tape. I dont think that using a sealend on tar paper is a good idea. Because of fibers the sealend will Not seal in the long run
Yup, ya gotta tape the window flanges, to seal properly, my Hardie fiber cement siding installer taped all the window Andersen flanges,and Hardie wrap
I think this was the point that the Polywall can stick to tar paper... unless I am misunderstanding
Who needs nuts-and-bolts when you have paliwal.
So will it stick to Tyvek or no?
1: that's not a good overlap, that's only 3 inches.
2: you sliced the heck out of that tar paper and at that point, you've lost the overlap.
the tar paper should go below the windowsill, then the drip pan, then the window, then the flashing over the window flanges, then tar paper from the window up. also, paper the walls as you side to prevent wind damage, and put drain mesh or laths over it.
Matt I live in NW Ohio, my house was built in 1963 under my siding which is pressed Masonite all original from 1963 is a 3/4 thick fiber board 4x8 sheets black on the outside natural tan on the inside. No tar paper or house wrap of any kind. When I put siding on should I remove the fiber board and install something better?? What should I use that is better?
It's probably Asbestos, get it checked, then remove it all...
Is that tar paper or builders paper?
This was #30 Tar Paper
It's been a while since you're done an actual build content video. Thanks.
A little off topic question; I'm looking at bringing a pre-built storage building (stick framed) onto my property to convert into a guest house. Plans are to use spray foam insulation. I have an option of getting it wrapped with Tyvek during construction. Is it worth wrapping and using open cell foam or skip the wrap and just go with the spray foam? Thanks!
Just a heads up, been doing those tiny homes build for about 15 years. Yes have them wrap it, but the floors like to condensate with interior temperature being warmer than exterior. Gorilla floors an the LP floors are the worst. Seal your floor with a heavy exterior paint then cover with plywood. I would Close cell underneath. I'm in Texas. Let me know if you have any questions, I'd like to be helpful.
@@ogk9com It will be about 24" above grade so the bottom can be sprayed with closed foam. I opted for the 3/4" tongue and groove plywood floor. Thanks for the info. I'm also in Texas. (Central)
You still need the Tyvek for water intrusion. I think you need it regardless of the foam (but closed cell is awesome).
I do not like tar paper because of experience. I've done a dozen flips in the Houston region that were built in the 50's to the 70's and tarpaper was used. What I found was that the tar paper had gotten brittle and many times cracked and even sometimes pie shaped sections had fallen down in the wall so in those sections the rain barrier was non-existent.
I have never opened up a Tyvek wall that was decades old but I think it might last longer.
The thing is, Matt is promoting houses that last multiple generations / owners / 100 years and if a product is deteriorating in 30 or 40 years few houses with those materials are going to be doing their job at 60 to 100. So I'll pass on the tar paper
who cares what some house flipper hack has to say?
@@manillafresh57 sorry, you don't know me, my values or knowledge and professionalism so your judgment is totally ostrich crap.
@@manillafresh57 was being an online troll your first pick as a profession?
I would use tar paper if I had the choice, but changing it isn't in every budget. This is a good option when you are only replacing certain parts of older houses since a lot of things don't stick to tar paper.
Well.. housewrap is still fairly new in comparison. I've seen complaints on them already, but they mostly asided that due to the poor techniques used in the beginning stages of mass production. But that still goes to show that no product is completely impervious.
Can i use tar paper for stucco repair ?
Unfortunately doesn't look like the Blue Barrier sticks very well to the tar paper
Is there any possibility of the sealant peeling off the tarpaper over time behind the siding? Specifically the sealant spread around the window flange. I suspect it adheres better when spread out
smart people never rely on adhesives for weather sealing. everything should be lapped.
I always enjoy the testing of products.
Most of this is blowing off while you wait 15 weeks for your windows.
All i use is tar paper i only see rot and water damage on house wrap paper jobs
I've spent so many years trying to take ideas into reality, not always successful, but the idea of some modular window frame with simple slip on seal like this, it's a no brainer and just optimizing two processes
Actually Matt, I'd love to tell you about the product we are building and now it can extend, in future, to CZcams..czcams.com/video/dwMEM6Wh0Lc/video.html
(PS this is our AI and AR systems working live, no movie magic, just alpha version working)
I don’t understand why you would use the adhesive if it won’t stick to tar paper, thoughts anyone?
Good vid, where is your roller?
I've been using Rhino U20 for a wrap. Zip tape down my overlaps, arc flash, zip tape 3 sides of window leaving bottom open but never used the blue barrier. Will it stick to U20? It's similar to Tyvek just better. Any input is appreciated y'all?
I like Tyvek over the Rhino that I have seen, although it is the commercial grade Tyvek and I don't know what the Rhino was. I think this Poly-wall, Prosoco, and the Zip liquid flash are all really similar, and they stick to a lot of different materials. I was surprised when he said not to use it on Tyvek, but you can use regular caulking and tape so no biggie.
I want to know how get 63k more subscribers to stick to this channel get you over the million mark? That polywall demo got me sold.
Awesome! Appreciate the support. I’m pumped to get to 1M! Hopefully soon
Let’s see how it sticks to ZipWall
What is it that people like about tar paper these days other than price?
Need more videos like this for the best install method using less expensive options.
Specially now due to Brandon
Beer bottle on the job site? OMG. Matt not following your best practices of a clean job site.
Better yet. Get out our thermal imager to look for beer bottles left in Matt's walls.
Getting a hold of a glass bottle that is not a beer bottle has gotten pretty hard these days. This reminds me of a remodel of a 1970s townhome I was doing about 20 years ago and found someone's lunch between the floor/ceiling joists. They had McDonald's and a Coke - in a glass bottle. I got a good chuckle out of it, wondering if they left it there on purpose for someone to find decades later or it was just someone lazy...
Don’t worry. I drank the beer ahead of the demo to be safe.
@@buildshow we could tell! 😁
@@mtakedown - I love Matt's channel for the content and for the great viewer comments! 🙂
Jackson Ruth Hall Angela Thomas Patricia
If anyone still thought about using felt for walls before this, I hope you changed your mind after
Some floor installers use tar paper as a underlayment. Totally sucks and causes krinkles with age.
Tar paper doesn’t provide a vapor barrier. Where does that come into the equation?
Matt reviewing cheaper material ?
But can it fasten a rear view mirror to a windshield? 🤣
I like "old school" and new ways to do old school better. Newfangled products and techniques are fine. But let's not throw the baby out with the bathwater.
But the cap nails make the siding look like shit.
Heck no.. I'm about to remove a 110 year old paper house wrap.
i cringed while he had that gun pointing at his face... I realize they have safeguards but anything like that is sometimes subject to failure... no safety glasses either...
My architect and builder who’ve been building in Austin since the 60’s would not even entertain using anything besides tar paper.
I’ve heard that before. I’d recommend plywood with it not OSB. Go thicker too. 15lb isn’t good enough.
Tar paper gets dried out and brittle, turns to dust after decades, it's obsolete, modern synthetic materials outshine old tar paper, for roofs and sides..tar paper is the rotary phone of wrap
Can you use the architect if the 30 lb paper is a vapor barrier
Sorry meant to say can you ask the architect 30 lb felt is a vapor barrier
@@cengeb lol. 1965 brick house on Gulf Coast, no side sheathing, just tar paper.
Still a bit supple ( not quite like new but definitely NOT brittle).
Might want to rethink that assertion
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To see all my information celular number press twice the round icon next to God blessings
Third!