FineScale Modeler Scale Model Basics: Remove paint and 2-part epoxy with isopropyl alcohol
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- čas přidán 28. 07. 2024
- Welcome to FineScale Modeler Scale Model Basics: Using isopropyl alcohol to remove paint and epoxy! Tim Kidwell talks about differences in how isopropyl alcohol works with acrylic and lacquer paint, how to handle the excess liquid, and how to use the stuff to remove uncured epoxy.
00:00 Opening & intro
00:19 What you will need to remove paint with isopropyl alcohol
01:26 Removing paint from a larger part
01:43 Isopropyl alcohol removing lacquer paint
04:05 Substituting isopropyl alcohol
04:48 Isopropyl alcohol removing acrylic paint
06:57 Finish removing paint and what to do with the remaining alcohol
08:44 Cleaning up remaining uncured epoxy with isopropyl alcohol
09:18 Example and process
10:30 Conclusion and sign-off
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Great tips! I have used alcohol to remove paint but, I didn't know about using it to clean up epoxy and fill seams. I'll have to give that a try. Thanks for sharing. Have a great weekend.
-David
I have found that Dot 3 break fluid works well ,you submerge the part wait a little while and then wash with warm water and a tooth brush.
I did not know it can remove lacquer paint. May because I use Acrylics only. Learn something every day!!
You can also reclaim the alcohol by letting the paint settle at the bottom and using a syringe to take the top cleaned alcohol
A good and useful demonstration. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey, this a very valuable tip, especially the two-part epoxy trick
Thank you!
I have used 91% in gallon baggies to reduce the amount needed to cover the car body (was removing prepainted graphics) and it reduced the smell from it evaporating.
That's an interesting idea. A paint pan works well for large parts, too. Allows you access with the toothbrush and other implements to help remove the paint.
thank you Ron Swanson!
I regret nothing. The end.
All craft/hobby acrylics are water-based, but there is a type of water-based paint that does contain solvent called waterborne paint. The added water-compatible solvent makes the paint behave (flow out and dry) like a solvent paint. I have had some luck using alcohol to remove oil-based enamels, but it hasn't worked consistently for me so far.
Great video!
Thanks!
You can also use ethyl alcohol. I’ve been using it for a very long time. In fact you can use it also to dilute Tamiya’s paints.
For a very long time it was difficult for me to find IPA and Tamiya’s acrylic solvent was expensive (specially for a teenager with a low monthly allowance) and resorted to ethyl alcohol that you buy on a drugstore.
Now I can afford buying IPA but found that Tamiya’s yellow cap bottle is far superior than IPA. I have a bottle of IPA and a bottle of the acrylic solvent that I am not using because I find that the yellow cap solvent is far superior. Although I have all that I still use ethyl alcohol for my cleaning (airbrush and brushes) and use it to remove Tamiya’s and Vallejo’s paint.
Cheers 👍☺
Thank you! Cheers!
I’ve used much worse to do the same job. I wish I knew sooner it was this easy. Great tip!
Thanks! Glad the video was helpful.
Car brake fluid will take paint off with minimal scrubbing and won’t damage the plastic. Just soak the part overnight and rinse in the morning.
I’ve had ISA not even touch some paints.
Tim, Great video. Have a question though, what do you use to strip paint of a completed model that has the windows glued on and the interior glued onto the body? Do you just sacrifice the windows and interior? I don't think that dunking the entire body would work if you were trying to keep the gunk off of the windows or out of the interior. Thanks again for the tip. Tom
Hi Tom: In a situation like that, you'll have to assess how much of the paint you're removing. If it's a small area, you're better off masking, sanding, and painting. If you mean to remove all of the paint off the body, then you'll have to do some surgery and remove the body from the frame, remove chrome parts because the alcohol will affect those parts (although not as aggressively as the paint), and pop out the windows. Sorry that there isn't an easier answer for this particular situation. -TK
Why is one end of the styrene chassis blue, and the other end white (after stripping)?
On the front end, I scrubbed only hard enough to take off the acrylic paint; the gray primer coat is still there. On the back end, I took off both the lacquer primer and the lacquer paint. -TK
Does this work on other plastics besides Styrene? Nice vid Tim.
It should. The nice thing about the alcohol is that it shouldn't react with the plastic like other chemicals can. And it will work with 3D-printer resin, too. Thanks!
Does this work on enamel, oil based paints like Humbrol or Testors?
Yes
I don’t know if this relevant, why does my gloss paint dry flat. Even gloss Rustoleum clear drys flat. Can you help?
Would this method work with refreshing something like an old model? And I mean very old!
I have recently found my old (vintage) kits from years and years ago, Most aren't available any longer or have long been re-tooled which I made as a 10 yo and while they were put together reasonably well, they do have a 10 yo's paint job like my old Saturn V and I would love to rejuvenate that one in particular as it is less complex than say, an armour kit.
Although paint formulations have changed over the years, it should still work. If you can, disassemble the model and start with a small part as a test piece. That way you can gauge how long to let the part soak to let it penetrate the paint.
I found out isopropyl alcohol removes paint the hard way. I applied some paint to a car body, then used an alcohol wipe to clean it up and the paint rubbed right off. DOH!
DOH!
99% isopropyl is my go-to. You can leave even clear parts for months and it wont damage the plastic at all
See my comment on 99%...
I would not recommend using an electric toothbrush on something as flammable as 91% IPA.
Just don't use brake fluid with resin!
you don't even have to brush it just leave it in a big zip loc bag for a day or two