How to lubricate caliper slider pins
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Loosen caliper mounting bolts & slider pins , remove caliper, grease slider pins, re-assemble.
If the caliper is defective - click here to see how to replace the caliper • How to replace a brake...
My video on replacing a seized guide pin in a Brake Caliper :
• Replacing a seized gui...
How to use a ratchet and socket set:
• How to use a ratchet a...
Good video! I was worried about your safety. Doesn't take much for blocks to slip out. Never use any old grease for brake parts. It could break down the rubber. Some slide pins have a rubber ring on the tip. The wrong grease could swell this and hinder the sliding motion. Dont overdue the amount of grease you put in the bracket where the pins go. This could induce pressure in front of the pins and again hinder the sliding action of the caliper. Those boots were shot. Take off the one that was still mounted to the bracket. Wire brush and grease this area. The boots are pushed in and lock into grooves to seal on to the brackets. The other end pops over the groove on the pins. You could use a torch on the caliper were the pins bolt in, or blaster with some tapping to help the fluid migrate into the rusted threads. Someone mentioned resurfacing. Not needed unless you have pulsating brake paddle or deep grooves. Just spray with brake cleaner and install new shoes. They will slowly wear to match the rotor profile. It's a good idea to separate the caliper from the bracket so your can wire brush the bracket and grease under the clips. When this area rusts it expands and will bind the shoes. Dont assume the shoes will slide across the clips like they should. Grease the ends of the shoes and test their motion. You may need to file the ends to remove some powder coat or metal to get them to slide without binding.
Should I lubricate sliding pins with anti seize or brake grease? Or maybe a combo of both?
@@aliislam580 Go with manufacture's recommendations or those in diy manuals. Else, I go with brake grease.
Neither one. The caliper slide pins require a silicon based caliper pin grease. This is because the rubber boot will become damaged by regular grease ( brake grease or not ) as will the rubber "ring" near the bottom of the slide pin if equipped. If you use brake grease on the pin that rubber will swell and the epin won't slide. Anti seize is okay on the surface of the hub that the brake rotor mounts to after removing any rust before mounting the rotor. Use brake grease for the back of the pads and a tiny mount where the tabs on the brake pads fit into the bracket ( clean it with a wire brush first if it's dirty or corroded )
I just performed this on my Lincoln mkS vlog. I am telling you this job was a pain because it was so rusted being that the car was originally from New York. But I made it through in the end. Great job and advice backyardmech.
I really like the video. I do know that on cars where the slider pins have rubber bushings it is a good idea to use the silicone based grease so the bushings don't expand.
The design intent of that caliper is to remove the caliper itself from the bracket first, then remove the bracket from steering knuckle. In that manner, you can remove the caliper easier when you have a rust ridge on outer diameter of rotor. Install bracket first when going back together, then install pads into bracket, then install caliper. Much easier that way to install, especially with new pads.
It may depend on the year but I'm pretty sure you can remove and lube the pins without removing the caliper, although it's nice to see the whole caliper when it's off and have better access for a more thorough cleaning and service.
Good to know Kody - thanks. Anti-seize compound is on my top 5 list of the best tools - after duct tape and tie-wraps!
Very nice and helpful. Thank you, Sir! ("I finally managed to get those caliper bolts loose, using some techniques that I'm not gonna recommend in this video." Ha, ha! Priceless! and I love your honesty.) Seriously, very well done, and very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to put this together and sharing it.
I'm having the same problem. Can't get those caliper bolts loose. Wish you would disclose those unrecommended techniques.
Good advice. Over lubing bolts around brake components could cause problems down the track, but I agree with running a little anti seize in and out of the bolts and holes so long as it's not overdone. I guess brake grease does not cause the rubber boot to break down but I would suggest they are inexpensive to replace when you are going to the expense of replacing the pads.
Thank you. Been doing brakes for years. But never really greased the pins properly. Gonna get me a stiff brush and do it right.
Outstanding instructions - easily understood. Thanks for this important repair video. Great camera work too.
Thanks for your help. Just to note the screws of the caliper of a jeep cherokee 2001 are inside a metallic sleeve so I removed only the screw, filled up the sleeve and then put the screw again. It works great.
I hear ya Johnny - for non-brake related jobs i usually use whatever grease is closest to my hand !
You tube is the best for learning things all mechanical.
I've been watching your videos as i prepare to fix a sticking caliper tomorrow (suspecting the brake line). Your videos are very well done, and you explain everything really clearly. Thanks for taking the time to do this stuff, it's a big help... subscribed.
Caleb Hewlin Thanks Caleb !
Thanks for this. Bought my F150 used from Canada, all rusted at the bottom for 5 yrs. 1 brake just seized up and got hot. Will do some servicing as you shown.
When it comes to brake work Johny, I only ever use grease specifically made for brakes. There is so much heat generated around rotors and pads that I wouldn't risk that some other grease may not be designed for it.
nah, other grease works fine
Glad you liked it George - and thanks for taking the time to comment.
backyardmech why sure man
Try a longer wrench for more leverage Nico. And remember, counter clockwise to loosen - you are probably looking at them from the front of the wheel. If you're using a socket and ratchet it's not a problem because you set the ratchet to loosen. Using a wrench it can get confused.
Righty tightey, Lefty loosey, and remove all the old grease-use brake cleaner, re-grease with a rubber compatible grease like sil-glyde
Slider pins affect side to side movement of the caliper. You won't ever hear them getting seized, rather, without maintenance eventually they will seize up the caliper and your brakes won't work properly.
Squeaking from brakes is either cheap brake pads (in which case live with it or replace them with better quality), not bothering to lubricate the BACK of the brake pads, not installing brake pad shims, rock or debris stuck between pads and rotor, or completely worn out pads.
Why grease shims? I thought they were made to solve that problem
Thanks this helped immensely! Changing my pads for the first time tomorrow.
You're welcome Brand - good luck with the job and work safe.
I feel so bad about northern cars. Thanks for the video! I think I need more lube for my slides.
I would suggest using silicon paste to lube the pins. It's better for the boots too to prevent petroleum breakdown of the rubber.
+luvmyctd
3:52
+luvmyctd A synthetic can still react with rubber unless it has a silicone carrier.
You are absolutely correct. Synthetic will also swell rubber. if the caliper pin is the type that has a machined portion on the actual stem of the pin with a rubber sleeve located on the pin itself, the rubber will swell with a synthetic lube and the caliper pin will jam. I know this from experience. Sil-Glyde is a good silicon lubricant that won't ruin the rubber.
+Lockemeister -- Wow, you solved my problem!! I have a set like this on my Rendezvous, and could not figure out why they were so stiff. Turns out the rubber portion swelled from lubricant getting on it, and this prevented the pin from sliding in the slot, and I had to replace the pins. Thanks.
Yes rkgsd....same as is recommended for underwater stuff....and it works in seawater (y)
Thanks Christopher - and i agree on the safety issue; safety first - always.
Wow amazing this got 1.2 million views. Good job dude.
Good Job, & I like the way you say "off", it would be written as "oot", I love it, lol, I like the Canadian accents. Vin
I took a look at those caliper pin boots, and they seem to be dry and deteriorating. I have just ordered parts for doing a brake job on my car, and the most expensive set of pin boots for both brakes on the front was $7.86. If the old set cracks and you get salty water in there (I guessed that you see snow where you live by the rust on the car parts) the pins will rust and it could ruin your brakes. I figure that it is cheap insurance. Thanks for the video!!
No problem Gary . And good point, the boots are inexpensive - so its a good idea to replace them !
all your brake videos were super helpful. thanks backyardmech.
Thanks Don - glad you liked the video.
There's a nice brake and clutch grease out now, ceramic grease
Thanks for the vid,nice and easy to understand at last.
Very observant Anhtuanb. I plan on changing the rotors - If I'd planned ahead I would have bought them before changing the pads - didn't have them at the time.
Squirt some Brake Clean on Both sides of your rotors and drive immediately afterwards, while tapping on your brake pedal, it should resolve
any squealing.
Best of luck
very good video about exactly what is stated.
Thanks for the information. I encountered a problem where I had no brakes and after changing the brakes master cylinder kit the car drove for a short distance and wheel starts smelling. I stopped the car because the wheels would not go further, the brake pedal got harder. So I am hoping that what you said would help my situation.
Thanks for the lesson. i don't care about the rest, I can do it myself as my GM dealer asked me for 200.00$ to do the job...
Nowadays 200.00 is a bargain.
Cheers from a Yank in the UK!
Is great that Gordon Lightfoot works on his own brakes.
Hahaha
‘Til Sundown
Straight forward video. Thanks!
I found out the hard way using brake grease (what many including MFG said to use) in hot conditions makes the grease dehydrate and harden. Jamming the pins, jamming the caliper on the rotor, makes it turn flame red. Syl glide forever now.
Syl Glide is great stuff! Do it right the first time and you don't have to worry about it later.
You Never want to grease the PIN THREADS you only want to grease the pin area where the caliper slides. The only thing that should be used on the bolt threads is a touch of NEVER SEIZE. And don't slop the grease or never seize like this guy does.
Yeah spot on, my thoughts exactly. Some people are too heavy handed around brake components with Anti seize and grease.
That's exactly what he did. Even explained it. He may have used a bit more than needed but not as bad as I've seen before.
Depending on the age of the cars sometimes the boots and the pins get rusted and worn I just grabbed a whole new setup for each brake and change them all
Thank you. You have a fantastic camera!
Raul Vasquez And thank you for commenting Raul
Trinitro phenylnitramine how did it go? I have a stuck pin .
Probably should have gone with some new boots.
nice 1 ill give it a go tomorrow cheers from the uk
Use silicone grease so the rubber does not swell. Using petroleum based grease will swell the slide pin boot and let water in which will rust the pin and seize the caliper.
Yea as long as its the 400+lube for pins however looking at old parts almost makes me want to spend the $3.99 for new pins or even $39 for new calipers. But I was told we hsve to replace padsif we do. Then there's the rotor turning. But My van shakes when breaking at 45mph. Had tires balanced still shaking. Got to keep learning.
Sounds like your rotors .may be distorted.
Ya know ya could squirt a little Blaster on them... before ya start cranking on your wrenches...((( and a little squirt as ya go))). A HUGE HELP when loosening bolts!!
If rubber sleeve is in the way take a flat (something gentile) and make an opening to allow PB Blaster to get in. Note always use Heat resistant lubes around Brakes and bearings. Things can get mega hot!... on the road.
I've worked on rusty cars all my life and while penetrating lubricants do help, they do not perform the amazing miracles you're describing.
Did you Grease the back of the pad? Is it necessary?
Caution The anti sieze on the pins will affect the torque settings .
2002 Narox - but the parts are fine. Canadian winters make everything look rusted !
i have never seen more rusted calipers and rotors than on this video...is that because you live where it snows ...or just a lot of rain?...thanks for sharing the importance of lubricating the different parts on a brake job...
You should watch South Main Auto - some of the cars he works on are appalling, (they use a lot of salt in winter) - Watch the brake and suspension jobs. Sometimes the rust just rains down from under the car, and some of the components look like the rust is all that is holding them together. Even a Honda civic where one of the dive shafts actually rusts through.
Silicon grease, new rubbers, do you think..?
Man a lot of rust good video
If the bolts are hex heads, I use single hex socket to loosen them so there's less chance of rounding off. I actually only have single hex sockets.
I always take the caliper bracket off for a good clean which includes the slider bolt bores to remove the old grease. If the rubber has split, chances are the grease in the bore is in a poor state. Scrape it out with a drill bit by hand then wipe the bore out by twisting in petrol soaked rag.
Don't care much for have parts and tools sitting on the manual.
I would have replaced both bolts and booths.
They are cheap rather be cheap and doing all over again, next year.
Winter here is very bad and cold, down below -60c.
Says the parts changer, not the mechanic.
you live on mars ?
@@LucDaigLTU ....the dark side of the moon.
@@nutsackmania You do realise sometimes parts actually need replacing - even a mechanic will tell you that...
Depending on your circumstance it is sometimes quicker and more convenient just to replace the part, then there probably won't be any ongoing problems.
Many mechanics will tell you it's not worth the effort of stripping down some parts.
Great videos, thank you.
Im a Certified Gm an Bmw Technician, you can use the silver antiseize stuff on the sliders to. it works alot better an last longer then grease. just a tip
Hey that's interesting Kody, I thought maybe it corrupts the rubber boot.
No problem - thanks Jevchance.
On my 06 Impala, the caliper bolts are square.
How do I remove them?
Awesome video. Thanks a lot
Thank you for this, very helpful.
What about heat resistant copper grease?
You can just remove the slide pin from the caliper without having to remove the whole thing, that's what I do.
Yeah I know. Mine have a pin that is exposed and a sleeve, and I replaced the seals and sleeves without removing the calipers.
Theodore Marakas not necessarily, if you live in an area that uses a lot of salt on the roads, it will really start corroding things quickly
@@nicholaswalczak4740 yeah I agree it doesn't take much I live in lake effect snow country upstate NY north of Syracuse and winter beats the shit out of your vehicle new or old I've seen 3 year old vehicles look like 20 year old vehicle underneath
@@matthewbrady1617 I won't live there!
You sound like you're from Halifax, NS.
nice, now i try to do same for mercedes c180 Thanks :)
Permatex 24125 ceramic brake lubricant is recommended not the anti-seize compound
You are probably right Shane, most people overdo it with the anti seize and get it on the rubber! The good thing about a nickel or copper paste over standard grease, is that it leaves a microscopic film between steel components. That's why a lot of us swear by anti seize. I will have to check out the Permatex products!
No Way! Nova Scotia or not. I would have replaced the boots and pin. If rubber boot stays on, that's a bad sign of possible seal issues. I can imagine the inside of that boot. for $8 , I would not want to revisit this job again for a sticking pin.
Copper grease works best
That is a neglected caliper and I would not continue to use it.
one boot stayed because it is tacked in and that is how they should be....i used a wrong lubricant on mine, making the rubber swell preventing the pin from sliding freely....they say silicone based grease is the right one to use where there is rubber
I have a 2002 S10 I replaced front brakes put everything back my question is why do they feel the brakes some tighter than usual
Would appreciate any feedback from you or anyone
Thanks in advance..
Given the hassle of taking off the brake callipers wouldn't it have been worth replacing those corroded disks at the same time?
My caliper slider pins are seized how do i get them off
Jm.thanks for you help.
Thanks a lot for the information. Great.
Very helpful. Thanks!
Which slider pin is bigger??
It would be nice to know what car you are working on. I don't remember that you mentioned it. I have a Chrysler Town and Country and the slides are different (although your video is still relevant). For the sake of other readers, my slides had an allen head.
Most likely is just surface rust. I have never seen a car need brake maintenance after 5k miles. Your engine is hardly starting to break in, however your brakes have no protection from corrosion other than when your brake pad grinds against the rotor and would therefore scrape any rust off I've left my car sitting for a shift at work and if it is raining out i can see thin amounts of rust building up after a 12 hour shift. Keep in mind that you could also just have a bit of moisture on the rotor
I'm happy my brakes are not that shitty and rusty, the rubber boots seems to need replacement. Why do You take off the caliperholder?
can someone explain to me why i always lubricate these pins with silglide, and 1 week later they are already stuck. I get them out with bare hands, but they are not moving smoothly.
Try silicone paste
Silglyde works fine if the pins are properly lubricated and have good rubber around them. Annual maintenance would be normal, weekly isn't.
Most likely, the bore and boots weren't throughly cleaned of ALL grease and/or the rubber parts were swollen and not replaced, and/or you used too much silicone paste/grease and the pins hydrolocked. Less likely, the top and botton pins aren;t identical and you reversed them. (I've done all these by mistake, learned the hard way.)
The pins are designed to work in nearly empty bores, with the rubber tip sleeves, if any, acting as snubbers to cushion the pins against pitting the bore walls. The seal does 95% of the work of guiding the pin and needs a very light coating of silicone on the pin to work properly.
@@psdaengr911 Yes, you don't need a huge amount of grease.
It looks like your inner side of your rotor is thinner than the outside because of the stuck caliper, you may want to get the rotor replaced.
gracias. thanks for making the helplful video.
Jesus did you pull that shit out of the ocean
lmfao
Alty dude I laugh so hard when I read your comment,because I was thinking the same thing lol, I'm still laughing
Yeah. I live in Australia and because obviously we never have to grit/salt the roads we NEVER see shit like this. My car is 10 years old and there is zero rust on my brakes or anywhere under the car..
Frank Rizzo i live in Massachusetts USA and we get tons of snow. I need to get regular car washes on the underside of my car to prevent rusting and it still happens. It's really rough on cars, all the salt.
I come from Scotland and this is what your car looks like in the morning when you leave your car out overnight.
Wonderful video. Just a recommendation for safety... I wouldn't use stacked wood blocks as your stands; they're more likely to slide/shift more than your affordable car stands.
Just my two cents. Safety is always good. Saves you, saves the car. =)
I use copper slip (copper grease) on the pins backs of the pads although modern manufactured pads supposed to have a coating I've seen the coating after two months flake off. Don't put any grease on the friction parts when ready I grease change gloves finish the job.
what long term lubrication would you recommend for the bleeder screw threads e.g when I removed my front left brake caliper bleeder screw, it snapped off inside the caliper and was impossible to remove - I had to replace the whole part of the caliper.
Nova Scotia Moores. If you're on the Rock, we're neighbors !
You need a 24" breaker bar to make quick work of those bolts.
Tried that, snapped the head right off the slide pin, but sure if that's what you call "quick work" sure as hell snapped and got the bolt out right quick! lol
Use an impact driver, the purcussive action makes it less likely to sheer off the bolts.
Alright thanks for being honest. I only asked that because there's alot of different things to do the same job, and I already have copper slip =P
Besides, every Country has different products so sometimes it's a pin in the butt to find an American brand in the UK for example.
good job
Kakha Tukhashvili Thanks Kakha
not at all, thanks frend
Nice instructional vid thanks for posting.
thanks for the video. I have 2 ?. what secret did you use to open the calipers. I opened one, but the other is stucke..
the other questions is, on the same caliper the inner brake pad is worn all the way, but the outer pad is almost new. is the caliper bad or do I nees to lubricate it
What could cause my my rear brake pads not to press the disc when i aply on the brake pedal
Did you clean out the old grease inside the pin slides in the caliper brackets? Also, no need to grease the pins BEFORE you put the rubber boots back on.....just grease them afterward so you don't have a big gob of grease squirt out when you reach the bolt. And, I would've REPLACED the boots with new ones. These kits are cheap and makes for a much better brake job.
MY GUIDE PINS ARE DIFFERENT ON EACH BRAKE. BOTH ARE THE SAME LENGTH BUT AT THE TIP TIPS ARE DIFFERENT ONE HAS RUBBER RING AROUND THE TIP AND THE OTHER ONE DOES NOT? WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU'RE NOT CAREFUL AND DONT WATCH WHICH ONE GOES ON WHAT WHOLE OF THE BRACKET. BOTH FIT PERFECTLY FINE ON EACH HOLE DOESNT MATTER IN WHICH HOLE I SLIDE THEM IN. BUT I KNOW THE ONE WITH THE RUBBER RING GOES IN THE RIGHT HOLE BUT I DIDNT KNOW SEE HOW THEY GO WHEN I REMOVED THE OLD ONES
You got that right Hp
Ive got a loose and rattling front disc caliper. rattles while driving, and I can jiggle it by hand. how do I fix this. 98 chevy lumina, 3.1
hi how often (year or km)do you take out and lubricant the brake grease ???
Most mechanics will not do this step for you. It's all about time and money. You can use anti-freeze lubricant to use for those pins as oppose to spending more money on specialize grease.
+26humor26
Anti-seize doesn't work for the slide pins. Anti-seize dries out over time and causes the slide pins to stick. Found out from trial and error personal experience.