Harbor Freight Sand Blaster Vs Angle Grinder for Rust Removal
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- čas přidán 1. 02. 2023
- Harbor Freight Sand Blaster Vs Hand Held Grinder for Rust Removal
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Here is a video on the initial set up of the sandblaster
Harbor Freight Sand Blaster - Setup and First Use
czcams.com/video/Jmfv8M9UQ5s/video.html
Check out more of our tractor videos here:
czcams.com/play/PLmYnhJtNUq7c2n8UTJASTf9qJQXQ_ngFP.html
Rockhill Farm is a daily equipment and rural living vlog. We mainly focus on tractors and working outdoors.
I really appreciate you taking time to watch this video. If you enjoy this type of content Check out some of the following links to support our channel.
If you are interested in a rock Hill Farms T-shirt check out our merch store
rockhill-farm.creator-spring.com/listing/rockhill-farm-logo
Please subscribe to our channel here: czcams.com/users/Rockhillfarmandhomes
Follow on Facebook at
facebook.com/Rock-Hill-Farm-102050688356056/
You can now support the channel by buying us a coffee at the following link:
www.buymeacoffee.com/rockhillfarm
When I refinished my big trailer I used the sand blaster to just go over all the creases and the areas that are hard to get to with a wheel. So I used multiple items to get the whole thing done.
Can't stress the PPE enough using that wire wheel on the side grinder. They work really well but those little wires break apart and will stick in your skin like a little dart
Hi Brock, we use a rust converter treatment product called Feronite here in Australia. Get your metal item clear of all loose and flakey rust, apply the rust converter - it generally turns blue/black due to the chemical reaction, prime & apply your finish coat.
It saves a lot of manual labour in you don't need a super smooth finish on the metal
Locktite Extend.
Rustoleum rust reformer $9 per rattle can
Brock, if you go with a wire wheel you should get the cup type. It will sit flat on the metal and cover more metal than just the skinny edge of the flat wheel. Then spray or brush the rust killer on it and you should be good. I did the frame on my classic car with a sand blaster and my boat trailer with a wire brush and a good rust killer. It depends on what level of finished product that you're trying to achieve. Either way I'm positive that it will turn out just fine. As far as re-using the media, there's absolutely nothing wrong with that. I did my blasting outside and on concrete so I could save as much as possible God bless and keep up the great work. 👍👍
Clean metal must be treated quickly as it will start to rust again within an hour. Use a high grade primer next before painting. You should get great results.
@@vogelj2009 Metal prep will also help a lot.
Brock the last wagon I did I used wire wheel on grinder also and just got most of them used rust converter and painted. 6 years ago and frame still looks good.
Great video Brock!! That paint remover wheel seemed pretty fast and efficient. Sand blaster did great job it will clean the bolts up good also. I did a Toyota frame did a great job and I'm actually doin another 4x4 Toyota frame now I bought the 15.00 dollar harbor freight Sand blaster holds 50lb bag also bought 50lb bag medium at tsc 13.00 dollar did back of frame in bout hour have a little 2gallon compressor seemed to work good for me. I've painted several implements John deere green I used rattle cans from farm stores seemed to stay on good. But the electric sprayers work pretty good also. Good luck with your project. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun enjoy
Another great video demo. Your using a knotted wire wheel that's design for cracks and crevices cleaning (90° inside corners) welds. Try a knotted cup wire wheel! It will be a huge improvement and last a lot longer.
Brush and roll is the most practical application method. A surface tolerant, epoxy primer is key to the longevity of your project. You can apply anything, on the epoxy primer, for a topcoat.
Respect. Very good test!
It went about how I thought it would.
I had a lot of old pipes and rebar to cut up and from what I read czcams.com/users/postUgkxPDBfLu68o58Aw85O_J-zIFfjJARBhp-3 this would be the tool for the job. Since I had never used one, I watched a couple of youtube videos and I'm so glad I did. Some really good safety tips, which I followed, and this tool did a splendid job. One good thing to know is the weight of the tool puts just about the right amount of pressure on the metal I was cutting, so I didn't have to use a lot of pressure, which is more likely to jam the tool. It made fast work of my job.
I like the input your getting from your viewers , it's bringing in some good ideas !
pc
While I've never done a hay wagon, I have done smaller implements,and I used a cup brush sometimes followed by a sander. After which I used Rustoleum rusty metal primer and rattle can John Deere green. So far, it's held up.
Wagner sprayer or paint with your grandson is my 3 cents & also my 4 cents id just knock the rust off , I'd try a flap disk possibly those work pretty good also , hit with a rust neutralizer & paint probably with your grandson & make a life long memory for him and a great feeling for you and his mom .
I know you're trying to do it cheap, but I could have sandblasted it for you. It would only cost around $200 and be done within an hour. But good information for someone that has a smaller project.
1:07 he almost said good bye to his future children 😭 that’s a reminder to everyone to treat power tools with respect
G'morning Brock. I stick with various grinders and wheels to get to the "black" layer. I then spray on a rust remover that rinses off with water, and wipe down the areas with mineral spirits, or Acetone.
Good luck.
Well you are getting it done. The turtle won the race. If you think that you have media all over your shop just buy the spray painter and use it in there. Then the whole place will have green flecks.
Agree with just using blaster for tight areas. You can also get much cheaper media than the powder/beads that aren't as aggressive and won't eat down so far. You can use a shop vac while blasting to catch the media as it comes out.
We have a welding and sandblasting business about 20 minutes from my house and they are pretty cheap to do a big frame like that. I wonder if you have one near you?
Good morning brock been there done it was in the auto collision in industry for forty years my suggestion would be have it commercially sand blasted and apply in a poxy primer called p o r 15. it's a rust inhibitor and then apply your color over that should last forever.just my two cents.p.s. you can use silica sand from your menards or similar store.your content is very intertaining.
Have you tried wet blasting for the larger parts or items?
Good day Brock!!! Interesting vid here! Very informative. FIRST 😃
Definitely spray with a LVLP sprayer and add hardener to the paint at proper indicated level. (I like the harbor freight mid grade gravity feed sprayer for this kind of job)This will last a whole lot longer than spray bombs and it puts down more paint quicker and cheaper. Plus... a big plus... it won't fade near as fast (years vs months) and be more scratch resistant. Just make sure to put a good epoxy primer on right before you spray the paint. Don't wait too long between coats,24-48 hrs,or you'll have to scuff up the primer for maximum adherence. First coat of paint, put a light mist coat on... to make a tack coat, then paint over that with a thicker coat. This helps in controlling runs and fisheye.
It all depends on what type of finish you want and products being used. I have typically used all methods and a few more but again it depends on what your working on and how you want it to look or holdup.
yup re the painting, large jobs id go with a sprayer, rattle can is fine for small stuff or where finish doesnt matter much but i found paint droplet size is inconsistent especially when can is low
Phosphoric acid ...also sold as milk stone remover at TSC. Look it op on CZcams. Works great. I use it all the time for these types of projects.
I bet it took A LOT MORE time to remove the dust from your shop than it did to remove the rust. Thanks for the video though. Really do appreciate it.
Using the wire wheel I find it much more efficient if you keep the wheel at a 90 degree angle. Thinking about it, I'm pretty much an expert with the wire wheel. Used several times a day for years when working as a welder.
The it really works
I've never tried it myself, but I've heard of others using naval jelly. Heck, if it works on ships, it should work on trailers!
If you have any degree of corrosion pitting, you NEED to media blast. Only blasting can actually clean rust out of pits. Wire wheels just ride over the top. They remove rust on top while not touching corrosion within the pits. This is true even if pitting is relatively shallow, and is only roughening the surface.
Try a cupped wire wheel, preferably with a 9 inch grinder, and remove all rust. Good primer should handle any reasonably minor imperfections.
Howdy Brock! Your comparison might not be scientific but it is practical. The sand blaster is going to be great for the nooks and crannies the wheels won't reach but as you said, not really practical for the entire wagon. I think you have a pretty descent plan and I'm looking forward to watching you do it from the comfort of my office... 😁 Thanks for sharing! 🤠
2 things:
1. Blast media (crushed glass) can be re-used up to 4 times.
2. Blasting etches the steel and provides for the BEST adhesion of paints. Using high speed disks polishes the steel which offers the worst adhesion.
That sand blaster is made for like a motorcycle frame at best. Ya need a bigger unit for the project you are wanting to sandblast. Hell ya probably could've had a Mobil water media blaster come out to your property and do the entire project within a few hours with better results. Grinding wheels whether they are a wire brush or abrasive is gonna get costly as well. The scotch Brite wheel isn't really a great rust remover unless it's just surface rust and it's not pitted. Media blasting is the best way to go, if you have the right set up for your application 👍👍
How long does the sand last?
For the small stuff use a white vinegar soak then place in a baking soda bath to remove acid off the metal. Cheap n easy for the small stuff.
Both if you don't means but I used a setup with a towable rental compressor and a deal that used walnut shells meant for blasting brick on some construction equipment it was fast
The sand blaster will shine when doing the tires.
Im gonna get one of these tomorrow. Trting to get some ruat off brake parts (spindle, caliper and caliper mount, etx) on the car im doing.
👍👍🔥🔥🔥
use a rust conversion primer first, it will seal the pores and the finish coat will last forever!
Another thing I knew a wealthy guy who business was restoring 60s impalas he put them on a rotisserie on a trailer and take them to a place called oblast no mess at his shop
I really apreciate that you muted the audio whe using the power tools, my ears are still alive : ) !!
I always try to level, the audio levels between talking and machines
I went through 6 abrasive wheels and one angle grinder removing rust from my snow blower and I,m only halfway done.
I just bought a 20 lb sand blaster from TSC but haven't used it yet ......................
any update on this project?
My suggestion would be as soon as you get an area "cleaned off" to the level you are happy with, spray a coat of primer on it before you call it quits for more than 1/2 hour. The primer will dry quick and cover/seal all the pours of the metal you just opened up that will love to quickly start rusting again otherwise. Still think the sandblaster will be good for tight areas you can't get into or around with the grinder. Have a good one!!👍
Use "primer sealer" since common primer does not prevent rust as many car guys learn the hard way.
I start with my air chisel. This busts off any chunky rust. Then i wire wheel/wire brush or sandpaper. I dont necessarily go for bare metal. About where you had it real dark gray. Then apply a product called corroseal. Then paint. Goodluck on your projects everyone.
Thanks for sharing
👍👍👍
Definitely spay pant. Much better finish.
My take is that you are working on a hay wagon, not a church organ. I'd take it down to the mill scale and hit it all with an etching primer, then paint. Use whatever tool/approach is giving you good enough results in a reasonable amount of time and cost.
I would also suggest that you stay away from using glass bead media if you are planning on a painted finish. The glass beads produce a smooth, burnished finish that won't hold paint very well (I ran into that problem before Dura-Coating parts for a pew-pew). Aluminum Oxide blasting media is available in multiple grits and will do a better job preparing metal to take a paint finish.
Open air blasting makes a wicked mess as you know firsthand now. You definitely want to do it outdoors or in a sealed room designed for that purpose. To be at all cost effective, you will need to be able to sweep the media up for re-use.
Blast cabinet use for small parts is a tremendous process. If you don't already have a blasting cabinet, I would definitely recommend picking up the large one that HF sells. It isn't a commercial duty cabinet by any means, but it is plenty good enough for occasional home shop use. Once you have one, you will be amazed at how many little jobs you'll use it on (rusty bolts, small brackets, lawn mower blades, pliers you left outside, etc.).
Take care and God Bless.
The problem I always had with sanding large areas was that the first part would re-rust before I could even finish the whole job.
I took an auto body class in the 70's and the teacher said that it only takes a few hours to have clean metal rust again, esp. in the hot & humid weather in CT near the shore. Every few hours we would grind and then shoot it with primer at the end of the class. Over the decades I've used Rustoleum Flat Rusty Metal Primer and then JD green on top of it and it's work well for me. Just make sure you clean the surface with alcohol before painting.
Wrong disc. Need flap disc 40 grit! Faster and smoother!
I've found the fastest & cheapest is to find someone with a real sandblasting setup. I actually found a place nearby that does grave stones, when they are slow they'll take the work! Have you thought of using a wire brush to knock off the big rust, clean it off with alcohol and then paint it with Rust-Oleum Flat Rusty Metal Primer. Then use the JD paint over it. Make sure to prime the areas that show clean metal quickly (every few hours) or it'll start to rust again.
Cup type wire wheels are MUCH safer than the flat flesh eaters. While tiny grinders will do the job slowly a 6" grinder has much more torque and can run the outstandingly useful 6" thin kerf cutting discs.
The path of least suffering and often most cost effective for large items like wagons is bringing them to a local monument company all of whom have large engine-driven compressors and serious blast pots. Mine bartered for farm eggs for small projects. Blasting anything but small parts really benefits from pro gear and big air. Your time has value.
just depends on what you want a hay wagon to look like. since its it will be out in the weather most times or under the hut. fastest would be just brush it on. I care more about greasing and air in the tires. Paint it when I can and then its mostly rattle can.
it appears you have moisture in your airline , as for media, aluminum oxide, it's kinda purple in color , has WAY less dust & can be reused over and over . Put a tarp down outside & catch it then just shake it to the center of the tarp & sift . I've been using the same 60 lb bag for many years. It's an absolute MUST that there's NO moisture in the air line it slows the blaster down & or clogs it .also causes immediate rust after & while blasting
Sandblaster is best you need constant air pressure of 70 to 90 psi I used one for long time plus primer will stick like glue where you blast metal
I would suggest a commercial business that does sand blasting. You will have many hours tied up removing the rust with the methods you are using.
if it was me i would hit it with a medium grit sanding block on the open spaces and that blaster in the places the sanding block can't easily get then a coat of Rustoleum rust reformer and paint it green but thats just me 😀
👀
A better wheel for the grinder is the polycarbonate wheel made to remove rust and paint. There are a few videos on CZcams demonstrating this - czcams.com/video/Tl5PhGKMW-k/video.html
A Harbor freight "surface conditioning" tool might be better!
I hate sand blasting you’ll have sand, blasting sand everywhere, even in your underwear 😝. There is a device that you can buy that hooks to your pressure washer and a pipe goes into a bag of sand. The combination of water, and sand. Takes the paint and rust off. I’m not sure how they work. I have never tried one.
When you say Cheep do you mean inexpensive or poor quality?
Again… silica sand max air
1$ a pound oh man your getting robbed I get crushed glass in many different grits for 8$ per 50 lb bag . And tractor supply has coal slag for 12$ per 50lb bag which may be better for your application on solid steel. Also you can increase fitting size and hose size to improve flow and nozzle size for even more speed if your compressor has capacity to keep up with a larger nozzle . Id change nozzle first . Crappy part about the harbor freight unit is the fact that the bung coming out of tank is only 3/8 even if you increase from there that part is stuck at 3/8 . Systems that start with half inch and up perform better .
When you speed the video up 10x normal then the toolblooks 10x better. Useless for an honest review.
Not to mention the missuse of the tools.