Myford ML7 Headstock Anti Rattle Guard Bushes + New Harder Countershaft
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- čas přidán 11. 07. 2017
- How I easily made some PVC anti rattle guide bushes for the ML7 headstock guard. Plus a new harder countershaft. Measurement, fitting and testing explained and shown.
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nice instructional video Steve should help others out greatly. those vibrations and rattles will drive you crazy thanks
Hello Mr Jordan. Great tips and how too, has always. You are correct about stopping and starting an electric motor. The start amps are much higher than the run amps The plant I worked at in Maintenance would run their motors nonstop unless a part needed replacement. Keep the great videos coming has time allows.
All my best.
Bobby
sounds sweet Steve , Great info and mods there man .. Thumbs up !!
Love the videos. Looking to build a countershaft for an old cast wood lathe. Just to note a SS countershaft will wear the shaft about 4 times faster than ground steel.
Thanks Steve,will look into it.
Thanks Steve for another great and informative video, that is a nice looking lathe, they are really good quality I hear, someday I might find one in the USA, just found a 12 Inch light Craftsman in a local paper, had the originally stand only missing two gears on the outside, got one on ebay still looking for one more 48 tooth and had not been abused, it is a 1950 year model, might put it on the tube, course video is not of your quality, thanks again for you time, Joe
+meyoucajun1 Hi Joe thanks for watching. If you put it on let me know as I would like to see the lathe. Regards Steve
Hi Steve
great informative video as always 👍
as an alternative material for the counter shaft, I used a linear bearing (a big parallel roller). It's hard as a coffin nail and will never wear, I ground the flats for the pulley grub screws.
keep the ideas coming.
Jon.
Hi Jon Thanks....that sounds like the ultimate set up for the countershaft. Is it easy to get hold of a linear bearing to fit the swing arm? Regards Steve
Hi Steve
I am lucky enough to be on very good terms with my local bearings and seals agent as I work as an industrial fitter. I simply gave them my dimensions and they did all the hard work on my behalf.
jon
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Good stuff Steve - it's long time since I had to sell my ML7 - in order to make a big move. Do rather miss it. Down to just one old lathe only now. Over time you have made some really nice mods to your lathe. It sounds pretty sweet.
Hi Chris Thanks. Are Myford lathes easy to get hold of in the USA? I think the ML7 is one of the easiest lathes to maintain. There must be lots being stripped down though, with the amount of spares that are readily available online!
Not sure about availability Steve though reckon they might be findable to a degree. Mine was when I was still in UK and I made a dedicated clutch unit for it... was sad to have to sell it before my big move.
You clutch assembly was an amazing piece of engineering.
I got rid of the guard rattles by fitting a couple of 'o' rings over the bearing housing ends. Still going a year later.
Hey Steve, love your videos. I subbed some time ago now in preparation for my own ML7 to arrive. Mine is a 74' model, and missing a few things. Namely the knub/handle on the spindle cover. I've picked up the snap/clip piece that fits on the inside as the retention mechanism. But I have to machine the other parts myself. Any ideas were I can get plans for those pats? Or replacements? I love how you help the community with suggestions and links on where to get stuff. I appreciate that a lot about your channel.
Regards from Arizona.
Great tips Steve, thank you. Can you pls provide some more info on your tachometer ?
This is the ideal circumstance for a concentric reamer. Those are adjustable reamers with a longer shaft and a conical piece to center the shaft in one end while the other end is reamed to size for the lathe shaft. Then reverse the tool and ream the other bushing and the two bushings will be in a perfect alignment and will fit the lathe shaft perfectly.
These are sintered porous bushes with oil impregnated in them and the trouble with reaming them is that it smears the surface of the bush closed and then they are not able to lube properly anymore. They are best machined with an extremely sharp tool and polishing them on the running face can also smear them closed. Cheers.
Jealous! Your ML7 is older than mine and looks newer! I went to see about making the bushes only to find them already in place. I inherited the lathe from my father so maybe he made them. I also have the con-rod boring attachment which is pretty rare but sadly will not see any use as who does that these days? Keep up the good work with the videos - fantastic skills!
Hi Mike.....Thanks for watching. The lathes do come back nice if you have a bit of spare time .... My one was in pretty bad condition when my brother bought it.....Regards Steve
On my ml7 I found that I reduced vibration tremendously by using a shorter belt from the motor to the countershaft.
I'm not really keen on your idea of using the belt tension as a clutch, mainly because the cone pulleys are quite soft and I think that trick will cause a lot of wear. Mine are starting to wear just from normal use. I keep mine fairly loose as you recommend and they do slip from time to time and that seems to cause them to wear a bit I think.
It would be nice to make some steel ones like the super-7. Those will never wear out, but it has a clutch anyway which I never really use very much in any case.
Hi John, I have been running mine like this for over a year now and haven't noticed any wear. In the off position it is now only touching very lightly so hopefully it wont in the long run. I have bought spare pulleys just in case. I wonder if the Super 7 cast iron pulley could be machined and adapted to fit the ML7?
I was about to install those PowerTwist belts on my lathe. From what I read they are supposed to run in one direction only. Second is that if you run it in reverse it make a lot more noice. So since I do not need to remove any axles for swapping belts I settled with normal belts for a fraction of the price. Have you noticed that when you run it in reverse on your machine?
Hi I have used the lathe in reverse and haven't noticed any difference in performance or noise. I have had it on the lathe for over a year now. www.lathespares.co.uk actually sell them for the ML7 so I presume other people use them on their Myford lathes. I got fed up with the standard sized rubber v belts as the spindle would always rotate when the drive lever was off. If I slackened the countershaft swing arm adjustment bolts to stop this, then the belt would slip when machining. This Fenner belt has cured all that. Also I tried the white unbranded link belts that you can get on Ebay....But those were always slipping.....Regards Steve
Lots of useful tips here. I will make some bushes or similar. I have been using electric tape for now.. Hopefully I can come up with a solution where I don't need to take it a part to install some vibration dampers. I like the oil nipples too, the original ones are a pain!. About the motor, mine get very warm after running it for a while. Is that normal? Does your motor have oil cups on either side too? If so, what type of oil do you put in there? On min it does not really go in if I try iso 32, it's like it's too thick, or it's full in there. So I squirt a little wd40 in there occasionally.
Hi, I have recently changed my motor for a new one which has sealed bearings. I only changed it though as I wanted one with reverse already wired up. The old one I had was the original one made by Hoover. This had oil cups which I put a bit of Iso 32 in once in a while. All these type of motors get very warm in use. The one I have on my woodturning lathe gets very hot, but it still seems to keep work ok. The WD40 should keep it going! Regards Steve
Thanks, I was a little worried about the heat. I have been thinking of trying to wire mine up for reverse too, but how much do you really use it in reverse? I have only wanted it for backing out taps and dies so far, but I think your manual handle solution looks like a better option for these situations.
Hi Steve, before I go ahead and ruin my lathe. Can you comment a bit more on the oil nipple changeover. I am a little unsure about counter-hole but I am assuming you drill it out to 1/4 to remove the 2ba thread so the bore is cylindrical. Is that correct? Cheers, Mike
Hi Mike, What I mean by a counter hole is to drill through first with a smaller diameter drill than 1/4 " inch (0.250" inch) . And then drill with the 1/4" inch diameter drill, preferably a new one or one that is perfectly ground. Then the drill hole will be spot -on the correct diameter which is best for the nice interference fit.
It wouldn't ruin the lathe either if you didn't do the above and the hole went slightly oversized so that the oiler nipple was a slightly loose fit, as one could put the oiler in using some Loctite 638 only around the hole diameter. (Taking great care not to get the Loctite on anything but the fitting diameters). This would then be a fix and would be absolutely solid. This is not what I would intend to do though, as I like the interference fit on these, like they should be.
Regards Steve
Hi Steve, thanks for that. Makes complete sense. Love the work you do on the Myford. Truely in the spirit of the creation of this machine! Cheers, Mike
Steve, I posted a video of the fork lift real good deal and next video It will have a paint job, that is going to be what ever kinds of paint that I have in the shop who's how that will end up, might post the Lathe tonight, Joe
dear steve... i want to remove my traverse dial and fit a new one ..but am having problems getting the grub screw out !!.its not an allen key fitting ! what is it ? THE LATHE IS MYFORD ML10 I would dearly apreciate your advice.. sincerley yours,,,laurence
Hi James what do you mean by the traverse dial so I can look at mine?
hi
i get myford lathe with gearbox change
how can i remove the gearbox change to clean the lathe
i remove all parts put the gearbox i cant find its screw
Hi Anwar. My Myford ML7 doesn't have a gearbox. I do not know how they can be removed. Hopefully someone else may answer your question Regards Steve
thank you steve
Hi Steve,
I know some terms in England are different than those in the US. In this video you use the term "silver steel" and I'm not sure what that is?
Ken
hi its drill rod in the us
Ken, I believe he is referring to what we would call 'drill rod' or perhaps tool steel.
Further to the other replies, it is a hardenable steel which in the UK is sold with a finish ground to quite close diameter tolerances.
How old is your ml7?
Hi Mine was made in 1949....Regards Steve
Wow thats old. Mine was made 1965.
greetings, fiete
I am not a gay but i love you 🙂
You are using the belt tensioning lever incorrectly. It is NOT meant to be used as a clutch as you are. You are wearing the belt and pulley unnecessary. This would be rather frowned upon my Myford, Please refrain from from doing so and also advising others to use this method.
I have actually modified my lathe to be used in this way. I made a new camshaft and have fitted Fenner link belts that have zero tension in the off position. It is a much better method of using the lathe spindle start up just like having a clutch. I have been using it like this for years and cannot see any wear at all. It wouldn't work with standard rubber v belts though, which couldn't be adjusted to stop the spindle in the 'off' position. I reckon Myford would have specified to use it this way if the type of Fenner composite belts were in production, when the lathe was first designed. It's great for start up safety and fast production. Regards Steve