RV Power Converter Test And Replace
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- čas přidán 3. 09. 2019
- Are you having trouble with your DC power in your RV? WFCO Power Converter Test And Replace
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Due to factors beyond the control of All Seasons Mobile RV Service LLC and Hillbilly RV, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. All Seasons Mobile RV Service LLC and Hillbilly RV assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. All Seasons Mobile RV Service LLC and Hillbilly RV recommends safe practices when working with power tools, ladders, climbing, repairing LP gas lines or appliances, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of All Seasons Mobile RV Service LLC and Hillbilly RV, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
...And thanks for not making this a 45 minute video!
lol....no problem
Whoever stays in that towel trailer sure does keep it very clean really nice
Soooo glad I found this video. You saved me a bunch of money. Thought my converter was bad because it wasnt charging my battery. In fact, a new battery I had purchased went dead a few times and finally wouldn't take a charge. Swapped out the battery (it was still under warranty) for a new one. When I saw how you tested the in and out, I did the same. It was working fine. The problem was staring me right in the face. A 40 amp fuse was blown, most likely because when I disconnected the battery, The Pos cable hit the frame while still putting out voltage. Thus the fuse. Replaced the fuse and waa laa. Works fine. Thank you for your informative video.
Glad I could help Robert.
Thanks for doing this, you’re helping a lot of people!
This is one of my first videos.
Good video! Was much easier to replace than I thought it would be!
It's not too bad
"that'll take all the fun out of it" I love this guy!
I am glad somebody gets my humor. Thanks for watching Daniel
honestly very information. and I feel more than confident to get this done
Awesome
Thanks Hillbilly! I watched other videos that ripped out the guts and wires of the panel. I didn’t know that the actual converter was under the power panel.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the video. Always good know if ONLY just learning about my RV electrical system. New to RVing..
Glad it was helpful!
Very kind of you to take care of your existing customers!
That' what I have been doing for the last 25 years. 😁
Goodonyas!
I rewatched the video and figured out what I did wrong, I got it right. Thanks again @
Glad the video helped.
Just what I needed to see! Thank you very much!
You are very welcome.
Very helpful video. Keep the good info coming.
Thanks, will do!
Great job and very helpful!
Glad I could help Kevin
Great video! You can tell you've done that a time or two. LOL
I just recently had to replace the whole power center, as my DC converter started to burn a hole in the floor below it.
I have a 199x something camper and I wish folks knew that they need to get rid of those old monsters.
Luckily, our dog smelled the burning floor/carpeting first, and we were able to figure out what was happening.
Would love to see a video where you replace a whole unit. There are SO MANY WIRES. :D
Thanks for this video. Very much appreciated.
I hate replacing the whole thing. Thats a lot of wires to label.
I have a 89 camper trailer and I’m pretty sure my power center is starting to go it’s hot underneath:(
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Very well explained. It was much needed.
You are very welcome Texas Smith
Great video! Thanks so much for making this.
My converter is reading 113v in (same as house outlet it’s connected to) and around 12v out, but when the battery is disconnected, and I’m plugged into the 15a at my house, only 1 light will dimly work in my trailer. I thought I’d be able to at least run my lights on 15a shore power… any thoughts?
Thanks!
Thank you! I wasn’t sure how to test my converter and now I am more confident, and I know that unless I want this to be fun, I won’t let those wires touch anything lol
Great Karen. Have fun and don't touch the wrong thing.....lol
I laughed when you said cutting off the power would take all the fun out of it. My dad was an electrician and said stuff like that.😊
Gotta add excitement whenever you can.
Looks good. Thanks! Will try to replace ours this way.
Have fun.
Your video is excellent I have the same problem in my campaign trailer my lights are dim so I'm gonna go ahead and change the converter thank you
Cool
glad I found this video today. Low life corrupt old man (tommy taylor) in mississippi told me he would come out and run diagnostic check on my power system after lights started blinking and going out for hours following a bad storm and power surge. Said he would just charge $75 for this (service fee) and I would have to pay for any part that needed ordered if I needed a part. He finally arrives and takes him 2 minutes to run his check and says "your converter is shot..I have one in the truck". He just happened to have one in an opened box. I had already taken all the screws out of the power unit so all he had to do was slide his converter in the slot and took 5 minutes to hook 5 wires. He looks at me and says "Ur all fixed up, that will be $370.00 plus $100 brings you to $470.00. I almost hit the roof! I said "sir you said $75 for your fee and whatever a part was and I told you let me know if its more than $150". He looks at me like I'm crazy and says "I can just yank it back out and leave". OMG!!!
What a crook! Then, I google the part and find one on Ebay for $75 but a 2 week waiting period. I found another on Amazon for $170. I ordered it right there in front of him and asked him if he would install it for at NO CHARGE when it arrives? He said "yes and I can be over tomorrow or the next day (today) and put it in for you at no charge".
I text him at 11:30 am and say "I'm here at the camper can you come install it"?
He replies "for $37.50 I can but I'm putting in a water heater now". we went around and around for 4 hours with him saying "Dude, just put it back in yourself". OMG people SUCK. This man is on disability..pays NO TAXES and did not write me out a receipt = I will be contacting social security Monday and reporting him as well as the Better Business Bureau. He will regret trying to scam me and double the price of a converter.
#Tommytaylor
#redneckssuck
Thanks to THIS video, I was able to install the converter myself not knowing what in the hell I was doing as I am a singer/songwriter not an electrician .
Thanks for watching Framed Elvisguy
You got it done and done...very nice
Thanks
@@hillbillyrv you bet brother
Thx for sharing your knowlege.
You are welcome.
Best video I've seen.
Wow. Thanks
Thank you thank you thank you. 👍
Subscribed.
You are very welcome.
excellent video
Thanks James
Nice job.
EXCELLENT VID
Thank You
Great job
Thanks Sammy
Nice, to the point.
Thanks for watching
Thanks for this video, I replaced the one on our rv on my own..but the wires are very tight. Had trouble getting it put back in..is it possible to run the red, white wires in front of the circuit board? Thanks again
Usually the wires are plenty long. Sometimes you just have to do what you gotta do Mark.
thanks for doing this. what setting should i to use on my multimeter? what reading should i look for? where should the multimeter leads go?
I have several videos where I test converters and I think you will understand the multi meter settings better too.
Ty
No problem. My pleasure. please subscribe and share with your friends.
Thanks!
You are are welcome
Very good video
Thanks
So to test the output of the converter you test voltage to the lug with the bigger I’m assuming 8 gauge wire? And it should be around 13.7 volts?
There are at least 3 bigger lugs. 1 is ground and the other 2 are outputs. The outputs should have around 13.7 volts, yes. Check the anti polarity fusses first.
I'm studying up on the converter problems. My refrigerator main board went out, so I replaced it. Now after a short time, I'm getting a low DC & hi DC message on refrigerator. When batteries are charging, a hi DC & when Power to MH is disconnected, a low DC message. Looking to converter as a possibility.
Defiantly check voltages with a good meter
This is the video I was hoping to find. It's realistic. I have the same converter. I just replaced it and it didn't correct the problem. I have to buy a voltage meter and see if I have power coming into the converter. Thanks for explaining everything from start to finish.
I should have been more specific. I needed to find a video that showed how to test the converter.
It's my pleasure The Red Dawn
@@hillbillyrv for sure. Any advice or maybe you have a video covering this, (I can't find anything) I have 120 coming into the converter as shown on my voltage meter, nothing coming out when the battery is disconnected. I also have no power at my outlets, (which I was told should work, along with my ac, TV, and micro) Thanks again.
@@someonesaidyes call me 304-254-9363
Thank you for the call yesterday. I believe I discovered the problem is not the converter. My outlets all have 120v between the ground and neutral, the hot and ground, but nothing between the neutral and hot. I believe the neutral - ground should be zero, and the neutral - hot should be 120.
Great job, I was wondering what converter you used to replace the existing one. I have seen several replacements of this type where the new converter does not fit and additional modifications are needed in order for it to fit.
Most of the convertors we see like this are either Parrallax or WFCO and most models of those brands, the lower units are interchangeable.
QUESTION THAT CONVERETER IS FOR ALL 12V LIGHTS AND KEEP CHARGE THE BATTERY ?
Yes
Howdy Hillbilly RV, I'm glad I found your site and this video. I'm hoping you can help. I have 30 amp WFCO that I installed, never a problem until I plugged into a 30 amp plug that someone (supposed to be certified electrician) wired for a contractor where we were helping hurricane victims in Houma, La. His helper evidently wired it wrong because it blew my DC Power but me A/C Power still works. Could it be the DC circuit board or the converter? that went bad.?
If you plugged into 30 amp 220 volt recepticle, the converter is most likely bad and maybe other things too. I have videos on that subject. You can do a search on my channel and find those.
When mine didn't work I found the plug coming in to the RV had a loose screw on the neutral romex connection. Of course no AC as well.
Thats why I always check the AC coming in first.
Awesome video. But what size amp converter do I need for a 30 amp camper? Because Amazon has all different sizes thru your link . Will 30 amps still run it of I replaced it with a 55amp?
The converter is only charging the batteries, that's all. It is just a fancy battery charger.
you shouldnt be pluged into 12v or pole when working...
That's no fun.
I’m helping a 77yd old lady rv-ing by herself. Has this same converter issue. It needs replaced. After finding this on your channel I’m confident I can do this swap. 1 question I have is that, She has 2 batteries hooked up, will this cause the converter to over work itself trying to “charge” 2 batteries and cause failure in the new converter? Thank you! You always have great info.
Not if the batteries are good. They need to be tested individually to make sure they are not bad.
Wow! Nicely done. I just bought a new TT with 30 amps shore power. I want to upgrade to lithium. It seems that I have to change the converter because the one already installed is for lead acid battery only. I want to swap it for a POWERMAX converter. They have many models: 35amp, 45amp, 55amp, etc. In my situation, should I buy the smaller 35amp? The 45amp is only like 10$ more then the 35amp. If it fits in the space, would it be better to buy a bigger one like the 45amp? Maybe the bigger one would last longer. Thanks for your help!
I believe that a little bigger is better.
You mentioned in the video that the battery overworks the convertor. I replaced the convertor and still overheating. Does the battery play a factor in it overheating?
If the battery is bad. Yes !!!
Wish you could fix my trailer. But now I can figure it out!
Have fun.
My wife accidentally hooked our camper to my 220 welder plug instead of the 120 plug I installed. I knew I should have painted the welder outlet red. Anyways she said that a small smoke cloud came out of the panel converter area. I checked all the breakers and fuses and everything checks out but, I still don't have any 12v power. I'm wondering if the converter fried. I did look at it but, don't really see anything on the board that looks fried. I'm still leaning towards the converter I guess I just need a second opinion before I throw down 250 for a new converter. Thanks of the video
220 volts will kill the converter 100% of the time. That has been my experience. I have whole video series on this. Search my channel. It should pop up.
@@hillbillyrv Thanks for the quick answer. It's greatly appreciated. I was thinking the same exact thing.
You always need your battery, the power converter is not always rated to draw large currents, this will cause the converter to blow fuses and even fail. The battery is required to provide the big loads that the converter is not able to.
If the RV never moves, you don’t need a battery. You only need a battery to run the slide rooms or leveling system. (high draw items). Thanks for the comment Nota
I suspect that we have a bad converter but havent tested it yet. What happens is it will be plugged in to 30 amp shore power and the camper shows 13.6 volts but then out of no where it will drop to 7 volts then to 4 volts. It will stay like that for a while then all of a sudden back up to 13.6 volts again. No rhyme or reason.
Hard to say. Testing is definitely the next step.
Awesome
You are awarened
What?
What is the part number of the converter part that you replaced? The lights in my camper occasionally dim if I have a lot of lights on and the heater is on.😊
You have to get the one that is correct for your converter. Get the model number off of your converter and contact your local RV dealer, they should be able to help you.
I think it’s the same unit that you were working on in this video WFCO WF8955PECB Black 55A, Amazon has the whole unit but I just want to replace the converter.
Thanks for this video. My ac keeps kicking the breaker at the post it’s a pretty big fifth wheel but has a 30 amp plug I went to Walmart got a 50 amp adapter plug and plugged in the 50 amp breaker ac came on run fine for 2 hours kicked the breaker, by this time it was getting cool down in the evening so it had gotten cold after dark I had propane in the tanks so I thought I would try the furnace it came on worked fine for 20 minutes kicked the breaker. This time I was in the bathroom working on the exhaust fan which don’t work when the breaker kicked with the furnace running I went out and the breaker kicked immediately four tries I went back in the bathroom and notices I left the fan switch on it is a 3 position switch I turned the switch to off and went out and this time the breaker reset. Went in the camper and everything the uses 12 volt won’t work the slides, awning, radio, ceiling fan, refrigerator, all the lights don’t work everything hook to outlets work fine as does the microwave. I went and bought a brand new battery and everything is back to working but I would think it’s back feeding with the battery and it will soon go dead I think I will have to replace my converter also. I did notice I have not heard the cooling fan run in the converter since the last time the breaker kicked.
Glad I could help. Good luck Simsknives
@@hillbillyrv put a new converter on tonight everything is running like it should..thanks
@@TheHarleyhillbilly Awesome !!!!
Well it’s been a year and the converter is out again, at least I know what it is this time.
Sir, My converter is tripping breakers. I checked the plug it was plugged into an it was dead. So, I plugged it into another outlet in the cubby hole where it's located, just to see if it was the outlet or the converter. When I plugged it in, it tripped the breaker for the other outlet as well. So I'm assuming the converter is bad? The whole problem started when I noticed that my DC lights and appliances were not working unless I had the battery hooked up and turned on. Then it was just draining the battery, as the converter was not charging it. Normally, as long as I'm plugged in the RV Parks AC electricity, everything works, even the DC stuff. Can Pretty much assume it's a bad converter, as I have not found any breakers/fuses/relays blown?
It is a very good possibility that it is bad.
I was camping just 2 weeks ago and my lights got dim and the battery capacity only had 1 light when I checked it. I put a multimeter on my Battery and it read 8.9 volts. (This was a new Battery) but I was plugged into a 30 Amp service so naturally I assume my convertor has gone out. So I used a 120v floor lamp for light for the rest of the trip. Yesterday after watching this video I went out and ran the same test on my convertor and it showed to be working like it should. Now I wonder if I have an intermediate problem or something else has gone bad.
You have to figure out why the power from the converter is not making it to the fuses and to the battery.
@@hillbillyrv i am going to be doing more testing
Is there a fan in that inverter? I believe mine makes a high pitch tweeting sound when it's hot.
Yes a cooling fan.
Thanks. I have a Popup camper with the WFCO ! Bad converter, where is the best place to purchase?
Sometimes popup converters are different. Get the model number off converter and call your local RV dealer or search amazon.
What if your lights go dim when your hot water heater come on but after it goes off your lights brighten back up
The water heater board should only pull a few amps. That's weird that it would pull the lights down. You stumped me !!!
My converter is the same as yours. My furnace has been acting up and now it won't run on the converter alone, without the battery being connected. The blower motor draws 7.7 amps DC. When the blower kicks in the voltage drops to 10.65 volts and the electronic board won't ignite the burner. Is it often that a converter will generate low voltage under load? thanks
It definitely can happen, yes.
I have a wfco converter. Is it similar to a yfco? Are they interchangable?
Never heard of an yfco converter.
do you have the part number for the converter please. BTW great video
I believe this one was a 8900 series WFCO, but you should get one for your make and model of converter.
What is the repair procedure when this model is accidently hooked to 220? The previous owner said they made that mistake and the converter hasn't worked since. Also, I'm new to how camper inverters work, so I'm learning all this at once. Currently no batteries in camper and not hooked to power by the long black cord. I don't have the cash to replace it, either. I'm between a rock and a hard place. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Hi Miranda. I believe I showed the repair procedure in this video. If it is not clear, then I have several other RV conveter videos.
I have a 2005 Prowler Regal that I suspect has a bad converter. Ac,furnace are not working. Fuses and breakers are fine. How do I find out where the converter is on it? It's a stationary travel trailer hooked up to ac power. It doesn't appear to be where the distribution panel is located.Thanks!
Then it can be anywhere. You will just have to go on a treasure hunt. If it is not in the bottom of the power distribution panel then it will be a deck mount converter. I have videos on those too.
So my converter isn’t charging my battery when plugged into shore. I jumped my battery with my truck and I was getting power to everything. I let it charge for a while. But it eventually died. Do you think it’s a battery or converter issue?
I have tons of videos on this subject. Maybe you will find some help there. I show how to test all this stuff.
Got a question for you. Today I stepped in the RV and switched on the lights, upon hititng the 3rd button all the lights went off. I've replaced the fuze (15A) several times now and it keeps blowing. I can only turn on certain lights inside, the exterior LEDs refuse to function and every time I hit that one switch, the fuze automatically blows. I've completely disconnected the battery as well as shore power hoping that this would eliminate any chance of overload but still nothing. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
You have a short to ground
So I have a class B camper van. Has two AMG batteries. Solar. Everything works great. So my problem is I plug into shore power and nothing happens. No power to the microwave or 110 outlets. Breakers or ok nothing tripped. Any advice for me to check first.
Love your videos. Keep em coming.
Get your meter out and follow the electricity and figure out where it stops.
@@hillbillyrv I just found a video on my RV. Zion by Roadteck. I have to have the house batteries switch on and inverter on then plug into shore power. Never heard of this before. But I’ll try that.
Stand the process but is the fuse box possibly bad so if the fuse box is not bad then the converter is completely bad how do we had a great flood in Kentucky my travel trailer saved me when all else was flooded away
I am sorry, I really don't understand. Is there a question in your comment? I am glad you survived the flood.
could this be the cause of my camper blowing the house breaker as soon as I plug it in?
It's possible. It is easy to isolate it to test that theory.
What if u only get proper dc power coming out only when u run a high wattage ac appliance?
Lights will dim very low, propane alarm will beeeeeeeeeep, I flip breaker and it initially lights up full then immediately falls to dim again, and the only thing that fixes it is if I run the microwave or coffee pot, or anything that pulls a lot of ac power.. eventually, after doing this over and over the dc output holds like it should. Sound like a bad converter? I have same unit as this video, but w more breakers
(Learned it happened when it got cold. Like the cold temperature made some apparently damaged component in the converter shrink or weaken and not maintain a steady connection, therefore not supplying proper DC power. New converter seems to have fixed things)
It should make good DC power anytime you put good AC power into it.
Didnt you unplug the battery? Doesnt that cause not power to converter?
Yes it does. You have to disconnect the power before you replace it.
My green led blinks fast every time I disconnect and reconnect shore power. I just press the reset button and it goes back to solid and works fine. Is this normal to have to reset every time?
Never seen a LED light or a reset button on a converter before.
Where do i find the 40 amp fuses on my converter ? My DC power quit. My RV has a 30 amp plug for shore power.
If you have the same style of converter that is in this video, they are with all of your other fuses right above it. These are only reverse polarity fuses. If no one hooked the batteries up backwards, that ain’t your problem.
I have 30 amp fuses. All of my fuses are good. My batteries are fairly new. My wiring looks good. So is my converter bad ?
When you load test the battery if the battery is not fully charged will that throw off the load test? Just wondering if the converter was not working would have the battery been
Thanks Elgin. I believe it is true. Before you can load test a battery, it has to be fully charged. I don't remember load testing the battery in this video. I believe I was just reading battery voltage.
@@hillbillyrv ok I thought you had the load tester and said it was weak I'm sorry I got confused.
@@mdterh1 I would have to go back and watch the video again, but I probably only had my multimeter.
@@mdterh1 You got me Elgin. I just went back and watched some of that video. I did load test it. Just wanted to make sure the battery wasn't totally bad, or shorted inside. This gentleman had lived in this camper in the same spot for years. So he didn't need the battery hooked up. Since the convertor seemed to work intermittently, I just wanted to make sure the battery was a least ok before I installed the new convertor.
Thank you i will attempt the same , be a first for me im hanging on to this video ,i live on my own and no help or money to hire anyone, so i guess ill live and learn as i go along.
Good luck.
More like God help me!
I'm confused about grounding. When hooked to my house, it has a normal ground but what about when camping? It seems like the only real and safe way to ground, would be to actually pound a rod into the ground. but I don't see people doing that. are they just running 12vdc? Some one told me to just hook neutral and ground together . but in the campers 120ac box, it is like that already . Like in a home.
Anytime you are plugged into an AC power source there should be a ground. Wither at your house or plugged into a pedestal at a campground.
@@hillbillyrv yes, I understand that when I am plugged into a ground, that I am grounded.
but what about when not plugged in and running off the inverter. Do the negative and neutral of the inverters AC output, and the DC negative of the solar panels, charge controller, and batteries all go to the camper frame and skin?
Is there an easier way that pounding in a real ground post?
sorry for all the questions. just a link to information is ok too.
Confused... I disconnected my battery (via disconnect switch) and tested my incoming AC as you did and got an appropriate reading. Switched to DC and got a reading of 0.00. Wouldn't that be accurate given the battery was disconnected?
It makes no difference whether the battery is hooked up or not. 120v AC coming into the converter. As long as the polarity fuses are good it should have about 13-13.5 v DC coming out.
@@hillbillyrv Thank you. Replacing my converter tomorrow.
@@roberthague396 have fun.
@@hillbillyrv Thanks for a great video! I was able to replace my converter with no problems, everything is working as it should be.
@@roberthague396 great !!!!!
I have a 2002 winnebao adventurer invertor needs repaced deck invertor . one black wire one green . what one is postive and what one is negative
new convertor is wfco and plug in are red and green
Thanks Tabitha. I am assuming you are asking about the 12 volt wiring. The terminals on the old one should be marked + and - just note which wire is which and put them on the new convertor the same way, because the new one is marked the same.
@@hillbillyrv 5 some idiot sorry about that took the old ones off they are not marked their are 2 green and a black. Have no way of putting a picture on here or i would
@@tabithapfeiffer4982 You need to put a battery in it and check polarity with a multi meter and then you will know which wires go where.
No overhead lights ,refrigerator does not work nor does the water pump. I do believe it’s a bad converter. It was my understanding if it’s getting ac with no dc output it’s a bad converter? Also if that’s the case would it also keep the A/C from coming on?
Yes and yes
I was getting noise from my electric box, like a motor coming of and on every few minutes. I shut off all my battery powered light that were on and the sound quit. Do I need to replace my converter. Thanks
There is a cooling fan in there. Maybe it is rubbing on something or it could be going bad.
@@hillbillyrv Thanks, will check it out for sure
It's like my converter work but shuts off sometimes almost immediately but at others the power stays on for a minute or so then shuts down it was working fine for a week or so idk
I have seen them fail like that before.
@@hillbillyrv I had it plugged into a 15 amp outlet under a carport worked for like a week then overdid it .then I went to a 70 amp and it still immediately shut down I checked several extension chords there continuity of each chord checked the fuses took out the inverter/converter...i about drained all my energy burned my book all the last of my morale with that anyhow. I found it works in a different plug outside not sure why thankfully,anyhow the video was still good thanks for the response man .
Wht Lind of converter is that and what is the wTtage?
WFCO....probably 45 watt
Where can I find/buy the converter for my 5th wheel?
Check my Amazon store www.amazon.com/shop/hillbillyrv
@Hillbilly RV what is the purpose of the converter on this camper? Is the only purpose to charge the batter?
Pretty much. Just a fancy battery charger.
@@hillbillyrv thanks for your response, but in my 2011 Catalina coachman I think it does a lot more than charge the battery. Is that true?
It charges the battery and supplies a few amps to circuits in the camper. That is all. @@MarkMinistries
@@hillbillyrv I think I have a converter which I think is kind of goin out not out yet, and like when I run the heating system its like a little jumpy at times and for example the lights dim. 2011 Catalina coachman. Im persuaded after I replace converter this problem will be eliminated. maybe ill remember to let you know
Should you remove the negative first
Makes no difference
Hello, My 45 amp converter failed, If I replace it with a 70 amp unit would be an improvement?
The higher the amperage, the more batteries you can charge. If you only have 1 or 2 batteries, it will be fine, just overkill for your system. Better to be too big than too small.
@@hillbillyrv thank You Sir!
I brought a 2017 four winds and have it on my first trip, after four days of running the AC heavily it seems to have burned out my power inverter? I have no 120v throughout the Coach even plugged into shore power, my question is could running the AC heavily have fried it? I did smell an electrical burn scent when it went out. Any opinions will be helpful.
This video is on a converter. It takes 120v and turns it into DC voltage to charge the battery and run all of the 12v systems, which includes the control side of the AC, but that would not affect 120v outlets. Your MH might have an inverter, but the AC would not run from that. If it has an inverter it would only power a few of the 120v plugs, microwave, tv and maybe a couple of outlets in the kitchen. You just need to start following the trail of power as Darren would say and find out where it stops.
All Seasons Mobile RV Service luckily I brought a service contract when I brought it at Camping World. One of the only tools I didn’t bring along is a volt meter to test where the power stops. Just sux being the first time out in it and having this happen but it’s part of owning one. Hope I can get my rig looked at quickly here in San Diego, California gonna just get there when they open 🤞 Thx for ur help. I was thinking the inverter wouldn’t be powering the AC also? The panel box u were working on looks almost exactly like the one I have.
@@darrylanton9323 I hope everything works out
All Seasons Mobile RV Service they weren’t able to work on it just like I thought but the service guy there did look at it and thinks it the power transfer switch that fried especially since I could smell the electric burn smell when it went out. He thinks the converter is fine since it charges the coach batteries when I drive. Is that a part that easily replaced being handy tools?
Thx so much for ur advice 👌 I truly appreciate it indeed.
@@darrylanton9323 It's not bad as long as you get the same brand and model. My RV Works did a video on changing a transfer switch czcams.com/video/MYrh8gdM7Xs/video.html I haven't watched it myself, but he does great videos. Be sure to let Darren know that I sent you. Good luck Darryl.
My camper slides will not work via the inside button, so I have to connect my car battery to get the hydraulic pump to push and pull the slide out rooms. I was told if I can make them work via my car battery then the problem is the converter. However, everything else in the camper works, so I thought at the time. in retrospect, I am remembering few instances where the lights inside the camper would only work dimly, if I turned several of them on at the same time. I also had the ceiling fan burn out in the living room of the camper, I noticed that the button to turn the fan on and off was getting hot, prior to the fan burning out. In theory, now that I look back, are all these signs that my converter is/was not working properly? It's a few months to camper season, so I'd like to get on top of the situation and get a converter ordered. So that's my question, do all those signs tell me it was the converter all along?
Either that or you have a bad battery or no battery at all or the power is not making it to or from the battery and converter. Lots of possibilities.
I never had a battery backup. We always ran strictly electricity. But even as I give this issue more thought, my problems began after the electrical box at the campground fried my cord from camper to box. I bought a new one and 1/2 hour later, it fried again. Then the campground staff came and replaced the 30+ year old 30amp to a new 50 amp electrical box. No more fried cords. A week later it was our cable signal to tv. So I went out and bought new cable, box to camper, camper jack to tv, still had cable problems. Staff came and replaced the 30+ year old cable set up inside their "equipment box" and no more cable problems. I'm wondering if maybe my converter problem stems from the problem of the 30+ yr old electrical set up at the campground??? Your opinion???
@@tinafarnsworth9264 Slide rooms almost never work without a good battery.
That converter didn’t have a battery charger? Oh by the way nice haircut ya off to church 👍😁
Yes it did and maybe.... ;)
Hello again, can a auto battery charger harm on kill a Lithium battery. TUIA
Lithium batteries charge at about 14.5 volts. I am not sure an automotive charger will go that high.
I didn't know I'd have to be an electrician to own an RV.
It's not required, but it helps. And a plumber and a cabinet maker and a carpenter and an appliance tech and a mechanic and probably a couple more trades that I didn't think of. ha ha
@@hillbillyrv guess I have to enroll in the school of hard knox
@@stephaniep1761 Tell them I sent you. I have been enrolled there since I was a teenager.
same
You don’t have to be an electrician to own an RV. You just have to have a lot of money to keep it running. Otherwise, you ought to be an electrician, plumber and solid handyman to own an RV.
Did you leave the battery out
????
Without a battery, don't you stress the converter?
You can't run any of the high amp things (slide rooms or leveling system), but yes, the converter will handle the rest of the stuff in a travel trailer or 5th wheel. Some MHs with a bunch of electronics probably not ok.
Nice job......
Thanks rawtry65
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You cannot check DC voltage using your earth as your -12 ?
Ok....Been doing it for years
@@hillbillyrv ya I'm wrong in an RV 120ac and 12 DC are all bonded too the frame never really thought about it thanks
@@so6585 Yes. I knew that.
I replaced the converter and my radio quit working. Im not sure what happend.
That's strange. Sounds like something that would happen to me. ha ha
@@hillbillyrv haha well damn man i dont know happend it sucks it a new RV
Is this still an active site?
If you subscribe and then go to my channel page, you will find out it is very active.
Removing positive wire NOT ground. Battery is a dc surge suppressor Hmmm...
Don't know what you mean, but thanks for the comment. I hope you will subscribe if you haven't already.