As a retired senior test engineer, I prefer to fix the root cause instead of the symptom. But if the cause is too expensive to too difficult to fix easily, your fix is practical and safe. I’m glad you found the root cause. In a case like this, I look for voltage drops and fix those.
THINK I am understanding you, My Snapper HAS a relay, I NO longer use the PTO for cutter deck and want to BYPASS ALL the safety switches and lights, 24:28 so to do so would I connect your hot wire to the key switch where the test light comes on when activating to start position & then run the other end to the Relay??
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, my friend. Although I will never personally advise anyone to defeat safeties on their machine, I recognize that you're a big boy who is willing to be responsible for the outcome. Having said that, I think I agree with your assertion. The 12v you get at the key switch when you (temporarily) switch to the Start position can go straight to the relay coil, and the other small terminal on the relay coil goes to ground. If you have a three-wire solenoid, then it is already grounded where it's mounted. Then the large terminals on the solenoid power the starter directly. If it uses one of these heavy-duty solenoids like mine, then your new relay goes to power the heavy-duty solenoid.
I have 16 ga wire will that work for my relay to the solenoid and the key switch as well ? I made a jumper for the solenoid to the battery but I still get a click to the solenoid why would that happen ? I'm working on a Ranch king MTD riding mower all the wiring was burnt in it so I had to rewire with the wire that i had bought from a auto parts place .
_"I have 16 ga wire will that work for my relay to the solenoid and the key switch as well ?"_ Probably. I think the original wiring is 16; I'm not sure. I would *not* go any lighter than 16. _"I made a jumper for the solenoid to the battery but I still get a click to the solenoid why would that happen ?"_ If you're telling me that you did it exactly as I showed in the video, I'd say one of two things is true: 1. The plunger in the solenoid is moving, but the contacts inside are burnt and not passing current through, or 2. The solenoid is working, but the starter is no good. (It is also possible that the battery voltage is low and needs charged or replaced.) Try this test: Take a set of jumper cables and carefully jump from the red terminal on the battery directly to the red connection on the starter motor. If the motor cranks, it is okay. If the motor doesn't move, it is probably no good. *Remember: I am not there to confirm what you are reporting as your findings. I am happy to try to advise, but I could possibly be sending you in the wrong direction. Always use good judgement, and always guarantee your safety first.*
I hope that was a statement of approval of my methodology. I haven't studied Ohm's Law since high school, 40 years ago. Thank you for the feedback, sir.
@@netdoctor1 I was not speaking well... I liked that point brought out that resistance may build with the aggregate of connection points collecting oxidation etc and needing an increase of AMPS....I thought that was excellent!!
let me tell an easy quick test to put trbl. in solenoid ok. ------you turn key all you get is a click stop go to solenoid use a pair of pliers to short the two big lugs on solenoid this will spin starter this test tells you the solenoid is bad replace it about 2 mins testing......
I want to order a relay on Amazon to do this modification on my 4 post selinoid. Please give me the manufacturer and model number so I get the right one,Thank you!
when you turn the key and all you get is click just short 2 big lug to spin starter these two test tell you solenoid is bad go a head an replace it no need to test any thing else much quicker do not need a meter
As a retired senior test engineer, I prefer to fix the root cause instead of the symptom. But if the cause is too expensive to too difficult to fix easily, your fix is practical and safe. I’m glad you found the root cause. In a case like this, I look for voltage drops and fix those.
Agreed, Jerry. I'm a "root cause" kind of guy as well. Eventually it was a voltage drop test that pointed to the corroded fuse.
Just what I needed! Thanks
Nice mod! Thanks for sharing!!
THINK I am understanding you, My Snapper HAS a relay, I NO longer use the PTO for cutter deck and want to BYPASS ALL the safety switches and lights, 24:28 so to do so would I connect your hot wire to the key switch where the test light comes on when activating to start position & then run the other end to the Relay??
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, my friend.
Although I will never personally advise anyone to defeat safeties on their machine, I recognize that you're a big boy who is willing to be responsible for the outcome.
Having said that, I think I agree with your assertion. The 12v you get at the key switch when you (temporarily) switch to the Start position can go straight to the relay coil, and the other small terminal on the relay coil goes to ground. If you have a three-wire solenoid, then it is already grounded where it's mounted. Then the large terminals on the solenoid power the starter directly. If it uses one of these heavy-duty solenoids like mine, then your new relay goes to power the heavy-duty solenoid.
I have 16 ga wire will that work for my relay to the solenoid and the key switch as well ? I made a jumper for the solenoid to the battery but I still get a click to the solenoid why would that happen ? I'm working on a Ranch king MTD riding mower all the wiring was burnt in it so I had to rewire with the wire that i had bought from a auto parts place .
_"I have 16 ga wire will that work for my relay to the solenoid and the key switch as well ?"_
Probably. I think the original wiring is 16; I'm not sure. I would *not* go any lighter than 16.
_"I made a jumper for the solenoid to the battery but I still get a click to the solenoid why would that happen ?"_
If you're telling me that you did it exactly as I showed in the video, I'd say one of two things is true:
1. The plunger in the solenoid is moving, but the contacts inside are burnt and not passing current through, or
2. The solenoid is working, but the starter is no good.
(It is also possible that the battery voltage is low and needs charged or replaced.)
Try this test: Take a set of jumper cables and carefully jump from the red terminal on the battery directly to the red connection on the starter motor. If the motor cranks, it is okay. If the motor doesn't move, it is probably no good.
*Remember: I am not there to confirm what you are reporting as your findings. I am happy to try to advise, but I could possibly be sending you in the wrong direction. Always use good judgement, and always guarantee your safety first.*
explained well regarding resistance and current
I hope that was a statement of approval of my methodology. I haven't studied Ohm's Law since high school, 40 years ago. Thank you for the feedback, sir.
@@netdoctor1 I was not speaking well... I liked that point brought out that resistance may build with the aggregate of connection points collecting oxidation etc and needing an increase of AMPS....I thought that was excellent!!
@@stevenlapham5254 appreciated sir. Thank you
AWESOME.
Thank you great video!
Generous of you, thanks.
nice one ,, solved a problem for me
Glad to hear it. Pay it forward, friend.
let me tell an easy quick test to put trbl. in solenoid ok. ------you turn key all you get is a click stop go to solenoid use a pair of pliers to short the two big lugs on solenoid this will spin starter this test tells you the solenoid is bad replace it about 2 mins testing......
Update: root cause of my problem with this machine was a corroded fuse.
Finally figured it out after all these years? Lol
@@zachariahheiss2294 Embarrassing, I know. Worked around the problem instead of dealing with it.
I want to order a relay on Amazon to do this modification on my 4 post selinoid. Please give me the manufacturer and model number so I get the right one,Thank you!
I have no earthly idea, friend.
when you turn the key and all you get is click just short 2 big lug to spin starter these two test tell you solenoid is bad go a head an replace it no need to test any thing else much quicker do not need a meter
$190 solenoid, or ten-cent fuse?
@@netdoctor1 If It Was A Fuse Your Solenoid Wouldn't Even Click, You Would Have No Power At All To Anything If It's Hooked Up Right
@@jonlambshead5115 Mine was a fuse. Not blown, but corroded in the holder.