Everything You Should Know About Long Tube Header Install [99-04 Mustang GT 2V 4.6]
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- čas přidán 15. 04. 2022
- This is for those folks who are thinking about installing long tube headers on their 1999-2004 Mustang GTs on a 2V 4.6 motor. This is not an easy job so having extra bodies to help out is recommended! Thanks for my dad and brother for helping and supporting the build!
For anyone wondering, I had a P0420 CEL for the high flow cats I’m running by BBK, so if you don’t have cats or have high flow cats then I’d HIGHLY SUGGEST buying Dorman Spark Plug defoulers from the auto parts store (18mm) for $10, you drill a hole big enough in it and it essentially tricks the ECU into thinking that the rear o2 sensors (after the cats) are working when in reality it’s just spaced out a tiny bit, that’s how I got rid of my light since nobody seems to tune for no cats anymore.
Also, anyone who says "BBK Long tubes suck" is retarded. BBK is good for the money, the gaskets suck but the headers are very good quality for the money.
Links:
Push Clip Fastener Remover:
www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Clip...
Push In Fastener Clips (Ford):
www.ebay.com/itm/332978705229...
Pry bars:
www.harborfreight.com/pry-bar...
Lokar ED-5014 Flexible Engine Dipstick (yes, it fits and it works, don't worry about what those other people say):
www.ebay.com/itm/165150051149...
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BBK Long Tube Headers Install Advice 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 Mustang GT 4.6 2v 2valve - Zábava
To reuse factory dipstick, cut the driver side header flange between primaries 6 and 7 and you shouldn’t even need to touch the dipstick. Save yourself $100!
Primaries????
@@sn95_hp Fancy word for cylinder essentially, when referring to headers. I know lol, I learned the same way not knowing what the hell other folks mean’t when they’d say “primaries”.
@@McLovinsFunhouse Exactly what I did, to hell with removing that dipstick and breaking it like everyone else.
i bought some bbk long tube headers for $150 which is such a steal about 2 days ago and after watching this, i don’t wanna put them on anymore 😭
also i’m 17 lmao
There’s no going back lol. $150 is a steal though! I had this same Mustang just before I turned 18, told myself I was going to keep it stock, here I am age 22 with cams & all the goodies you can bolt on 😂. I have zero regrets, but I do all the wrenching on this car here in my garage so $0 for labor other than buying food for my brother & dad who help me out tremendously.
You dont have to fully drop the k member you can loosen it about a inch and the headers will slip though also recommend just taking out the steering collumn and steering rack and it should go in
Great video. I have BBK long tunes on mine now, but they are rusted. Wish the person who did the job before me went with the coated ones. Wish me luck. Lol
Thanks for this useful video bro
Glad it was useful 😁👍🤘
Great video I subbed 🔥🔥🔥
bro u are the goat. thanks!
Thanks alot I left my car undone for about a year now with all the parts stashed inside ☹️ nows the time to finish
Yeah long tubes is definitely not an easy install. But hope this video helped a bit in at least guiding the way. I wish I was more visual but it's hard when everything is already done on the car.
Dang I need to spend more thanks for info 🐎🤙🏼
Great video man, very informative! I'm planning on getting long tubes soon.
Thanks homie! Also, I got a second opinion on the whole dipstick thing, I’ve been told that if you cut the top flange of the driver side header between primaries 6 and 7, then you shouldn’t have a hard time to reuse factory dipstick with long tubes, so something to consider. Apparently you don’t even have to touch the dipstick this way.
@@McLovinsFunhouse good to know!
56 yr old master tech has worked at ford for 30+ years, he also said you have to remove the whole k member. He also said “say good bye to a comfortable cruiser”
Yeah there’s really no way to NOT remove the whole k member when doing headers. As for comfortable ride, car still rides same as stock, just sounds a tiny bit louder in a refined way. I think what he mean’t was if you decide to throw in a tubular k member, that will definitely be a different riding experience since you run front coil overs/conversion on a setup like that. Or maybe even just the fact that your options for wrenching are super limited when installing headers on stock k member, like seriously, if the starter were to go out, man…. what a nightmare that would be, definitely wouldn’t be a simple 2 hour long job.
if you already have a hoist, its easiest to just pull the motor and trans out of the car together, trust me. I can have the motor and trans out in 30 mins with basic hand tools. And you don't have to deal with getting the car re-aligned after.
That's definitely an option to, a little more scarier for a novice but that method definitely saves time. Thanks for the input.
Im trying to get my motor out but I’m having trouble bc of the long tube headers in the car any tips? New edge 4.6 of course
holly smokes!!! thank for sharing all these tips! As I'm in the process adding long to headers. The only thing I'm doing differently, is that I have my engine pulled out of the car for a rebuild . I am hoping by mounting the long tube heads on the engine first then installing it into the car works. I can't seem to find any videos on Youtub to see if anyone installed headers on a pulled engine before installing back . If anyone has, please share with me 😁
I know people who’ve done it this way. They’ll take motor out in one piece with the long tubes attached & put it all back in with the long tubes attached. It can be done 👍
I've done it. Get some extra hands to man handle it back in, have to get crazy angles on the engine to slide the long tubes in
I have American Racing long tubes I'm currently replacing the gaskets on. The drivers side cylinder #7 the tube runs right over the top of the bolt. Open end wrench for about 30mins. That 1 bolt is my nightmare.
What about when the transmission is removed? I may be trying to install long tubes here soon when I do my clutch
That’s where it gets tricky. I believe you can only install long tubes with trans installed since there’s not enough clearance to fit transmission with long tubes already in. You should be able to install driver side header no issue (with or without transmission installed) but passenger side is where it gets tricky. Every brand of headers is different but some will allow you to remove and install them with no issues, regardless if transmission is out or in, but those style headers are usually much more expensive.
do you think the V6 will be the same headache?
I got a question How did you keep your steering knuckle from rubbing against the header I got a 2002 mustang GT with long two headers BBK and my steering's notchy because it rubs against it.
Hmm… mine doesn’t rub at all so not sure what to say on that one.
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Did you have any trouble with the passenger side a/c line ? Mines laying right on top of the header now and it's not good.
Not at all.
BBK long tube headers will fit an AUTOMATIC car if you relocate the driver side o2 bung. Otherwise, Pacesetter, ARH, Mac, and Kooks headers will fit with no modifications.
I lv your videos and keep it up!
I was wondering with your long tube heads have you had any issues Igniting the cats?
Have you tried looking into stainless steel headers and why did you decide to go with the BBK headers. As the S.S doesn't Is exorb as much heat?
Many thanks for your time.
Ingo Pedersen
Thanks! Not quite sure if I understand "igniting the cats" but no issues whatsoever. Tuner said everything looked perfect while he was tuning it so that says a lot. I did blow out one side of the cats out a little bit lol but that was probably from going airborne and scaping like mad this one time, along with a lot of super hard pulls on the street. Pieces ended up in my driver side muffler and it was funny taking it out, I had to cut open a little slot into the muffler and reweld it. Sound remained just about the same, a tiny bit louder but barely any louder.
I like the BBK Header + BBK Midpipe combo since it's a direct fit and there's not much wrestling you do with the headers vs cheap eBay ones. I'm sure Hooker/Kooks headers are great but I just didn't have the money and I didn't want to custom fab a midpipe. 100% of work on this car has been done in my own garage, exhaust shops are great but I'd rather just do what I can at home since any sort of shop around my town is a hit or miss. It was a direct bolt on.
SS is nice but I just didn't really see a need for it. The ones who say non-stainless headers won't last are the ones that buy cheap ass headers with no coating or at the very least any high temp spray paint. This car has Flowmaster 40 mufflers for the past 10 years and was driven in harsh Wisconsin winters, yeah they look rusted but I sanded them down a bit and they look good as new, stainless isn't everything. My headers are starting to rust a bit (well more like flake off in the ceramic coating more than anything) towards the bottom of the car but up top looks pretty good still. Daily driven for the past 2.5 years since install (even in the snow) and I'm confident they'll last for a really long time. Only issue I don't like with BBK is that they marked up the headers by like $200. Ceramic coated ones were $599 but I had gotten them for like $540 with a coupon from Lethal Performance at the time : )
Luckily I work at O'Reilly's so I can get the manifold gaskets for cheap
Ever thought of removing the valve covers or heads?
Already opened up valve covers when I did my cams, twice. I don’t really have a reason to remove heads, I always thought about milling to up my compression but I figure it’s a tight PTV clearance with my Todd Warren cams. I also thought about porting my heads but It’s a daily driver that can’t really sit for too long.
Hear me out, could you not just pull the heads, install them onto the heads, then install the headers/heads all in one. Because I plan on doing head gaskets and a timing set replacement soon and when you pull heads off you’re supposed to pull them off with the stock exhaust manifold still on then reinstall the heads the same way. But I was thinking I could just do that, but I’d be reinstalling the heads with the long tube headers on them instead of the stock exhaust manifold.
Your method honestly could work. I know a lot of people legit pull the motor out when they want to go the route of installing long tubes and just dropping them in and it works fine but not sure on your route. You'll have to let me know if it's possible since you'll be taking heads out anyways.
Dude will these bbk longtubes fit on an 04 automatic gt?
With an auto and BBK long tubes, I feel like they would fit but the transmission pan would probably be in the way. If you really want to stick with BBK, I’d contact them directly to see what their opinion is on that. There’s also other brands like MAC, Flowtech, MRH, Hooker, and maybe pacesetter that would more than likely be ideal…. but I just love how direct of a swap it is with the BBK long tubes + BBK midpipe.
@@McLovinsFunhouse preciate that bro. Gonna look more into that
When you did this did you go ahead and replace the clutch and everything since you cannot access them after installing the BBK long tube headers? I have heard you cannot change the clutch without first removing the headers again
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@@McLovinsFunhouse Thank you!
“hopefully it helps” bro just scared me lol dont think ama get long tubes anymore 💀
It's a pain in the ass to do the job or take transmission down with long tubes in place, unless you have a fancy tubular k member which automatically eliminates all the issues. 100% worth it though! Makes the car just sound different than the rest. You can have a loud ass Mustang, but not many actually sound refined. If you have the money and time, I'd say go for it. I've recently checked for catted mid pipes, seems impossible to actually find one since the EPA hates to see anything "high flow" lol.
Do I use rtv on gaskets? I missed that part
That's more of a turbo thing. RTV isn't necessary on an NA setup USING MLS gaskets.
@@McLovinsFunhouse I can't get EGR tube disconnected. Think I can just unhook from above then remove?
@@subduedsins7983 Do what you can. I remember using a blow torch and a crap ton of PB Blaster soaked overnight from when I disconnected the EGR fitting by the header. I didn't need to remove the entire EGR tube from above.
Did you buy a new EGR tube connector?
@@subduedsins7983 Nope. The header came with EGR tube connector welded in
Arp
Just remember that long tube headers will bump your HP up, but you'll lose some torque. Most cars don't see the track so shorty's may be a better choice. The best choice, in my opinion, would be mid length headers. But only JBA made them, which they don't any longer. If you still want to go long tubes, to get the most out of them, consider cams with timing. Have a professional do the work. factory cams can be off as much as 8 degrees from one another. A larger throttle body/ free flowing intake plenum, Ford performance PI intake manifold, minimum 3.73 gears in the rear end, 3.90's better, cold air intake, may need larger injecters, and finally-a tune.
I’m late to this comment but reread it 2 months later and thought that I’d add that the stock 19LB 2v injectors are good for up to like 330-340rwhp. Your fuel pump will likely give out before your injectors ever will. Put a 255LPH pump in it and it’ll be fine. I mention this since I was given very bad info by many people that stock injectors can’t go past 280-300rwhp, YEAH NO, I wasted $250 of my cold hard earned money on 24LB injectors I never opened that I’ve been trying to sell for 2 years now, and am making 300+ RWHP on stockers and have been told by professionals that upgrading injectors on an NA 2v is a waste of money unless you are making BIG power or are boosted, or if the injectors are just super old & gummed up. 😲🙃
False. You gain both hp and torque all throughout the rev range. As long as the tube diameter is ideal you be fine.
@@thenegus5469 @thenegus5469 You are correct, good advice. Ideal tube diameter is what counts here. Bigger isn't always better, especially with a 2v. Also to anyone reading this, don't waste your money on shorty headers, as they will add little to no power. In NA applications, long tubes are the way to go, especially with cams.
Not worth it on a 2v the factory logs are good enough to avoid all the nightmare scenarios that could arise because of these… I’ll list a couple: not enough ground clearance especially on lowered cars, have to remove them to do a clutch, get in the way for even a simple starter replacement and other simple things in the engine bay, don’t last as long as the factory manifold (most will eventually rust out)
You aren't wrong. Everything you said about the nightmare scenarios is true. Sometimes I wish I had a tubular k member because of all the clearance issues in the event my clutch or starter goes out. But damn they make the car sound soooo good. I street race this car a lot so it was essential for me. One thing is for certain though, I truly will never understand how people manage to fit even bigger diameter headers (like 1-3/4") into these cars, the fitment is so tight it's insane.
Metric