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How to use AC Gauges in Your Car (AC Problems)
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- čas přidán 13. 07. 2011
- AC gauges. How to use AC gauges in your car DIY with Scotty Kilmer. How to fix ac problems. How to read and recharge the AC system using pressure gauges. How to use a set of AC gauges to fix air conditioning that's not working. DIY car repair with Scotty Kilmer, an auto mechanic for the last 43 years.
⬇️Things used in this video:
1. AC Gauges: amzn.to/2BIru4v
2. Big Fan: amzn.to/2kDJTIP
3. Flashlight: amzn.to/2kwtiu3
4. Common Sense
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⬇️Things used in this video:
1. AC Gauges: amzn.to/2BIru4v
2. Big Fan: amzn.to/2kDJTIP
3. Flashlight: amzn.to/2kwtiu3
4. Common Sense
5. Full HD Camera: amzn.to/2AvoEk7
6. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz
7. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf
8. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C
🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend:
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Scotty Kilmer this comment is hilarious.
Dang.. the link for the sale on common sense is absent. Back to dragging my knuckles then..
Dear Sir, my car (Lancer) shows very high pressure on the high-pressure side such that the HVAC pressure switch turns off after 40 sec when ac is turned on...what might be the reason for this. Recently my car runs through water upto a level of 1.5 foot. Whether water gets enter into the system
I need common sense Scotty 😓
where do I buy common sense at?
Keep in mind I am from Texas, and we talk a bit different down here. I was watching this video, and thinking about how much I like your videos. My son comes up and says "he's talkin' funny." :-) I said Son, when a man knows this much about cars, and helps out this much, he can talk however he likes. Scotty, I want to say THANK YOU!!! Your videos have helped me out countless times and saved me a ton of money. I appreciate what you do, how you do it, and even how you talk!
Paul Irwin lol Scotty's also from Texas how funny!
Hell yes
The guy is from houston.
@@florascent9ts scotty from new York he is
@@flicmydik pretty sure niagara falls usa
11 yo video and yet in 5minutes it explained the usage of the tool and common issues + fixes better than most others do in videos four times as long. Thank you Scotty for your work!
Hi Scotty, Changed my Shrader valves, evacuated and recharged my Lexus SC400 today. Thanks for all your training. She is pushing 42 Degrees now through the vents. I used the O'Rielly tool program. Total cost for this project was 70.00. Doing it with your help saved me tons. Thank you, Rick
Watching 11 years later, and I can confirm the gauges are now $64.99 at my local harbor freight compared to the $49.99 mentioned. Still a good steal haha
Thanks for the info. I went ahead and bought a set because I went to an A/C shop and they told me the compressor was shot so they quoted me a pretty steep price plus parts, refrigerant and recovery fee. (~850) I checked the system and found it was about 20 psi on the low side and less than 100 on the high side. The system is now cooling but I will see how long it will last. One item the HF set was missing was the valve to pierce the can which cost 6.99 at AutoZone. Your videos helped me take this project on. At the end, I had ~45 on the low side and ~195 on the high side. worked perfectly. Thanks again,
the low-side negative pressure info was the gold nugget for me...
... only video yet i've seen that's mentioned it.
Thanks Scotty. Unlike most people in the world you are quite useful.
I'm prepping to replace the compressor and condenser on my wife's Subaru. The condenser has some refrigerant dye on it and I know that's where the leak is. The compressor has just recently starting making a whine when its running, but still works ... kind of. The AC is cool, but not cold.
Since I'll be in there doing major surgery I also decided to replace the $20 expansion valve and am putting in all new o-rings and replacing the Schrader valves as well. I have a set of gauges and use them regularly but thought I'd refresh my memory about them. Your video is as always... spot on.
best most informative quick and no BS video i have seen on pressures and diagnosis today, and i've watched 30 vids....
Agree , straight to the point. 🖐🇦🇺
That comes from years of exprience and not by school boys
Scotty, thank you for sharing your knowledge. There is nothing like doing a job the "Right Way." I watch your videos often. I'm 73 and still learning about cars, love it.
Kilmer is a gift that keeps giving.
You are very verbal and explain things easily and clearly in a step by step fashion without getting distracted...and it’s clear you like what you do, so that comes through in your CZcams videos. So many guys on CZcams who discuss mechanical issues with cars, lawnmowers, go carts, etc. can’t even talk to the public well, so it’s hard to follow them. And there are gaps in their discussions...probably gaps in their knowledge too. Thank you for your videos.
generally it's worn valve seals or piston rings doing that. Do a wet and dry compression test to see if its the rings, and pray the pressures are good, showing its valve seals, which you can just live with
This is a great video, Scotty ! I'm just a hobbyist, so it took me years to learn all of that on my own (pre-internet too). Somehow, you compressed all of that knowledge into a 5 minute video. Thanks !
Thank you so much Scotty. I’ve learned so much and was reminded of lots of things I’ve forgotten. You are appreciated. Where might I find a full chart for ambient temp, Humidity, with low and high readings?
@@roberthuggins2086 It is not in Haynes, but I saw the chart in Shop Manual I fortunately have for 2 of our cars.
Follow up: I bought an expansion relief valve, and took the evaporator housing apart to replace the valve. Once I got the housing open i found that it was clogged with leaves! After a thorough cleaning, vacuuming and recharging, I discovered the evaporator core has a leak. The leaves were so thick, it was slowing the leak, & preventing hearing any hissing. I only discovered the leak once it was cleaned. I'll be buying an evap core & replacing this weekend. Thanks Scotty!
Just replaced everything but the AC in my 2007 Dodge Cummins. Charged it-- at 60 degrees outside temp. 30 oz of 'freon' went in, but the high side only read 50-- when I took the guage system down, the red hose was clogged with oil under pressure. I put 2oz of oil in the accumulator; 3 in the compressor and 1oz in the condensor.
Anyway, it seemed like a clusterf--- doing it, but I have cold air in the truck now. We'll see if it lasts! Happy I saved myself $1,000.
Thanks for all you do.
Love ya scotty you are so awesome for helping complete strangers. They broke the mold when god made ya. Thanks for all these great posts.
make sure the condenser fan comes on first. If it does, you have a serious high side restriction like drier or bad expansion valve
I've fixed a bunch of ACs in my career and that is about the best, succinct and accurate tutorial I've seen. It's not complicated, you just have to understand what each of the components does and it starts making sense. Good job!
Can you help me out with mine?. I just replaced my compressor, condenser and expansion valve. A/c wasn't cool especially during the day. It's was "fresh" in the morning and night.
Well like I said, I replaced those 3 parts and still doing the same thing. The mechanic told me I probably got a defective compressor, so I bought another one and still the same.
Scotty this is by far the best explanation I have seen to explain what the low/high a/c readings mean and what the fix would be. Your help is much appreciated.
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on CZcams. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On CZcams . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
This video was totally helpful. Low and high was the same took off the compressor it was drier than a popcorn fart. Thanks Scotty
That seems pretty dry....
I'm stealing the term "popcorn Fart"
Great video Scotty! This is what people want to know. A+
So many videos on youtube on the subject ,some very long ones,yet you managed to explain exactly all the scenarios in a very short video and not too many words but all done in a way that anyone can understand.I take my hat off to you sir !I had bought a set of gauges and the low pressure was 70 and high pressure 100 psi with engine off ,with it on and the compressor spinning it doesnt do anything ,so it must be a bad compressor.
Short and simple: Scotty your videos have helped tens of thousands of people, including me!!!
when you check the pressures, you don't open any valves at all on the gauges, you just open the valves on the system itself where they snap onto the car so the gauges get readings.
But what about the air that is in the hose? And if you checked and it is ok. Is there refridgerant in the hoses?
@@markmcselec when checking the pressures, the air in the hose has nowhere to go. It’s compressed towards the gauges to get the readings and then you close them before turning the vehicle off. The end result is that you have the air that was originally in the hose plus whatever refrigerant that flowed in while taking the readings. A negligible amount. So no air from the hose really gets into the system and not much refrigerant really escapes the system.
@@davidjeffers6339 thanks for the clear explanation. It now understand it.
thanks scotty, my auto ac shop wanted $900 to replace my compressor, I can do it now for half that with new pump & expansion valve, oil and refrigerant including buying the vacuum gauges and the vacuum pump!
I was a mechanic for 8 years and had no idea how to use the gauges as we just used the big machine. Just recharged my 90 Chevy with your help thanks
Scotty I’m a qualified motor mechanic in Australia and I learn so much from you! Thnx Mate!
I thought your description of various pressure scenarios was bang up!
Thanks.
Scotty, I recently found your videos, and I love them. I like your energy, and no nonsense way of explaining stuff. Keep up the good work, and thanks for the help.
Fixed my roommates a/c. Changed the compressor & used these exact gauges & vacuum pump from harbor freight. Blows cold as Alaska now. Just weigh the cans so you don’t overcharge, keeping in mind 12oz plus whatever the can itself weighs. With the new self sealing cans, you can take them off the can tapper all you want, to weigh them when you’re getting close to what the system needs.
Dude, you’ve come a long way. I dig it that you’ve gotten better and funnier, people remember more accurately when it’s fun. Trust me on that one.
The only guy that actually explains what different readings might mean.
you can't check the compressor pressure unless it's moving. Try hot wiring it to make it spin. If it won't spin or does and the pressure is still that same, it's shot
Scotty you are my hero! I've been subscribed for several years and your channel almost always has the answer(s) I am looking for and them some more. Quick facts and videos are set-up an an effective manner to learn from.
I and 1.3 million others greatly appreciate you!!
One scenario I didn't see covered was, What if you have a situation where the compressor shuts off for a more usual period of time and starts blowing out warm are out of the ducts for an unusually longer period of minutes before it come back on. Gauges read about 38-40 on low side and 225-250 on the high side. When the compressor shuts off for that unusually prolonged period of time while the engine is still running, the low side gauge climbs to 90-92 while the high side goes to around 255-260. If you have an idea, much thanks in advance Scottie because I have been searching for along time to figure this out.
first, fix the evap drain if it's getting water inside the vehicle. But if it's only wet outside under the hood, they often do that when really humid outside
Thank you Scotty this helps a lot. You explained everything like no other…
I love when he says rev up your engines (and his Mustang says "98 miles to empty" and it quickly goes down to "97 miles to empty" just by revving the car) LOL MAJOR GAS GUZZLER
This guy is amazing and YES he built a personality of course he's funny,but what matters here is THE PASSION that this guy has to teach what he knows!,not everyone does that,thanks SCOTTY and may God bless you and yours always!!!
generally a restriction in the system does that, but low refrigerant level can do that too. Make sure the right weight is in the system.
@wangbungal Yes, I've broken knobs off on all my gauge sets, I end up replacing them with metal knobs from a hardware store for outdoor faucets. Scotty
I agree with you that the only way to add refrigerant correctly every time is to evacuate and add by weight, but your typical viewer is a DIY'er like me who doesn't have access to that kind of equipment.
Maybe you should mention that you can slowly add charge and when the suction line is cold and sweating all the way back to the compressor, your charge is probably close enough without having to remove the existing refrigerant.
Scotty: Thanks. I checked it again this morning and -120 both sides with out motor on, 55/460 when started, lowered to 45 and got 405!! Compressor made a funny noise- noticed after lowering pressure, the compressor does not cycle now- just runs, at 2500 pressure goes to 440!!! I will change the parts as you mentioned. If you have any other suggestions, keep them coming.
Thanks again.
Don
low side is a bit high, but if the low side line is cold, and the high side hot, often it's a dash problem is you don't get cold air cause those pressures aren't that bad. Often the dash unit blend doors don't open right to let cold air into the dash when you have those pressures which aren't off by much
This guy is great! I love his enthusiasm.
its from sniffing leaking refrigerant all those years
Probably your best one that I’ve watched Scotty. Thanks
At 2:50 the same readings ( indicating a bad compressor) can be duplicated when the orifice tube is missing. A low cost but critical part that can be missed when a backyard mechanic is replacing pressure hoses
by law you are supposed to use a recycling machine to suck any old refrigerant out of the system. But if the system is empty, you can use a vacuum pump to suck the air out before refilling it.
Just awesome thanks for this video! Very well done.
Scotty, your channel is the first one I check to see how to check and repair my car. Thanks a lot for sharing your expertise and common sense!
That's what I thought.
Vac the system down again with both valves open. After an hour or so, close both valves and then shut off the pump. Note the gauge will read 30hg of vac. Wait about 20 minutes or so and note the gauges. If you read less than 30 hg, you have a leak somewhere and you should find and fix it before continuing. If it holds, hook up a can to the service line, then bleed out the air in the line before opening the low side valve. Run the engine at 1500- 2000 rpms while charging.
As I'm watching, my son says to me "Why is he yelling?" Lol
those pressures are not that bad, often internal dash problems like bad blend doors cause that.
Your THE MAN! I have a 4runner with the same engine, ac system and that's the direction I'm heading with my diagnosis
Great video Scotty!!! All business, no rambling
Scotty I love your videos for an experienced technician, I almost always learn something. I really love ya brother in arms for all you do for us. ******* But for the inexperienced backyard or new mechanic I find your videos DANGEROUS for them and the rest of us on the road. ******** You often leave out EXTREMLY IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION. ************* In this case you failed to mention the use of the knobs on the gauges and when to open or not to open them. Opening the High side while a can is hooked up could be very dangerous. Also you gave no warning about possible frost bite, or can manipulation or position when filling. Brother you've got to fix these SAFETY ISSUES in your videos. Or at least say you should get an experienced technician to teach you. Love ya bro Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
This video is not about charging an AC system. It's about trouble shooting and taking readings. But I see your point and it's good practice to add the do's and don'ts.
Scotty is just educating the public so as we know the problems. It is not an issue in your country where all is professional and honest. In mine, we need to know...period or else.
experience is good for a mechanic/technician, but in the USA you also must be "Certified" to work on A/C systems.
Nadien Sans to work as a professional yes. One needs no certification to work on ones own vehicle.
@john boy EXACTLY you would like my videos. L☺L.
my low side is about 40 but it decrease to less then 20 when I accelarate , any Ideas ??
THANK YOU
What is the high side read? Probably low on gas, need top up.
This is the first video of yours that I've viewed. Scotty, I gotta say, I love the way you deliver information. I've been independently studying AC systems for about three months now for work. I'm green in the automotive field (a year into it), and no one else has really been able to plainly state what the gauges indicate. At work, the recommendation is always evac and recharge. No real diagnoses to speak of. I just had that aha! moment. Thanks, Scotty. Subscribed.
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on CZcams. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On CZcams . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video on the scotty kilmer channel on CZcams, czcams.com/users/scottykilmer , so don’t miss them.
Hey Scotty this video was the second that came up in search results when I searched for this topic. The first was from AutoZone but I decided to go to the first “real person” video instead, and that was yours. So this is the first video of yours I’ve seen, and I gotta say I really found it useful and informational, and also I really dig your presentation style. Subscribed!
where can I find the chart for the correct AC pressure that Depends on the temperature and the humidity
??
Thank you Scotty for this information.
If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on CZcams. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at How To Ask A Live Mechanic Car Questions Free On CZcams . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don’t miss them.
Hell yes , Scotty’s tha man 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Why do you always do a better job explaining things in a very simple way? Good job $cotty.
Scotty
First thanks for all the Help and Knowledge you Share.
I have a 92 honda civic Vx
two years ago I changed everything in A/C system short of Compressor, Evap, Exp Valve, Dryer, Condenser, and Flushed all lines Changed all o rings and converted to 134a I did not change compressor due to $$$...I got good cold air for last two years
(I live in Florida ) recently in AM drive to work temps 82-85 the A/C blows Cold down to 56 at vent. However on way home when its 92 the compressor kicks out and will not engage. So I checked the pressures and 35- 45 on low side and 195 on High side. However the pressure builds with increased rpm until high side pressure get to 250 and the compressor Kicks out....the low side pressure also decreases to around 25-30 as the rpms increase. The car has 250 k on it and so I am thinking this old R 12 compressor is prob seen its better day. the High side needle has little vibration at Idle however needle on gauge smooths out as RPM increases. Love to hear any suggestions you have.
This guy has randomly helped me so many times.
Great video! Bought the same set today and im glad nothing was wrong with my AC system, just low refrigerate
I do appreciate your video and response. I couldn't bare the $850 for compressor so I did some more looking. My 2006 Ford Freestyle along with some other older Fords and Chevys use a scroll type compressor. A common problem with them is a $35 scroll valve located on back of compressor. 30 min fix. Symptom was " warm at idol and cold while driving. Thanks again for the video and input what got interested in doing it myself and not spending the money on the whole compressor.
Thank you! My 2004 tacoma has "0" on the low side and "100" on the high side. The AC is trying to cool but doesn't get there. My fear was that it was the evaporator core as that is the biggest pain in the rear to fix as it is normally behind the dash. Your video confirmed this. I may just forget about fixing my ac and sweat the summers out. :)
WOW that is a great idea. Didn't think of doing that. I assumed that I had blockage. I just purchased a new compressor, hose set, condenser, O-Ring kit, flush kit and a dryer ($375). Didn't put it in yet. Think I will try your suggestion before doing all that work, if so I will get refunds. Thanks for taking the time to help.
Regards R McG
great video Scottie, finally a mechanic who explains how to diagnose an A/C system, all these other youtube “mechanics” only seem to be able to diagnose a locked up compressor/clutch not engaging, or a system that has no freon in it.
Great video. I had the same problem with my car. Through this AC gauges my air conditioner regain new life.
Thank you for posting this information.
I went to Auto Zone and free rented their guages. OEM brand. Picked up 2lbs of R134a to have on stand just to see if it was a leak. I understand you cannot fill a space with refrigerant and expect it to displace an air pocket Low side 150 high side about the same. Compressor does not kick on. Without a recovery device, I will have to leave it to the professionals. 2006 Honda CRV 122k miles.
It ended up being my blower motor Resistor it burnt out. You should make one I am sure it will help a few people. After checking out my relay, pressure, and compressor I finally found the problem and it only cost me time and a few bucks
Clear. Concise. Not over-complicated. Very well done sir!
Thanks scotty you make my schoolwork easier to understand. Wish you were one of my teachers 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
This is a long shot. Hope you see this Scotty. I have a scenario that I can't figure out. I vented the lines, changed expansion valve, Vacuumed the system and recharged on a Hyundai Elantra. As I was recharging the hot side would only go up to 50 psi and low side around 45. Hot side wouldn't go up anymore until I told my helper to rev steadily at 2k rpms while I continued recharging. That's when the needle finally moved up to 140 psi (hot). Compressor enganged but never cycled. Stayed on constantly. My gauge readings in the end of recharge was lo 47 and high 140. Saw another video suggesting checking the evap thermistor sensor. Hope this is enough info. Thank u
Compressor might be bad and leaking refrigerant back to the low side. The cycling is controlled by the low pressure switch so if the low side does not get low enough it wont shut the compressor off.
@@Redtooth75 In older vehicles with FOT systems, with expansion valves there is thermistor on the evap to cycle compressor at about 32 degrees..
@@metalhalide4043 true but in this case that wouldn't be the issue because the suction pressure was 47 psi which is not low enough to get a 32* coil.
This is awesome! Haven't found a more detailed video and I figured out how to actually use the gauges. Mr. Kilmer you literally made it stupid proof hahaha thank you!
Wow. You just explained and simplified what i thought was a myth . Diagnosing a car AC!
👏👏 thank you!
try hot wiring the compressor with a wire from the battery positive terminal to see if it works then. If it at least turns, then check your low pressure when turning and if it's low, you a re just low on refrigerant
Thanks Scotty...I just replaced my compressor. As you said the low pressure and the high pressure is almost equal. When the engine is off the pressure is the same as when the engine is running with the air cond switched on....
Compressor piston failed....replacement required.
hi always check pressures with engine idling and at fast idle 1200-1500rpm . Mainly to check condenser cooling is effective .
hey Scotty, really enjoy your vids and definitely learn plenty, but some things you got to learn by doing, like purchasing refrig gauges. i purchased a set of those "harbor freight" gauges, took them home, put them together, tested them with a vacuum pump, and they held vac for about 45 min before i released them, then went the next day to use them on my truck and they wouldn't hold vac right from the get/go, so wasn't sure if it was the truck or the gauges, so i tested the gauges once again and behold this time they wouldn't hold vac in the test this time. so those things i guess a 1 or 2 time use only, heck i didn't even get 1 real use from them. so i had to take them back. i would suggest to your subs to spend a little more money and get a decent set that will last more than a couple of uses. i don't know maybe you had better luck with yours. anyway i still luv ya, just sayin. 😎😜😝✌
Still the best AC diagnosing vid out there
Thank you so much, Scotty! You’ve been a great instructor over the years
Fantastic informational video Scotty, thankyou for sharing it's appreciated. Cheers from 🇦🇺 👌🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
2:15 mark, awesome explanation, was informed I’d have to replace evaporator core or expansion valve. Either way they said it’d involve removal of the dashboard, which should bring cost to over $700.00. Great video, thank you.
First time watcher. This video is excellent, thank you for all your help!!
they all have relays, but rarely do they go out on hondas. Try hot wiring the clutch and if it works, you might just put a switch on to run it, as hondas are all computer run AC systems and get expensive to fix often
Scotty doesn’t know....that Winona and me do it in my van every Sunday! Great work Scotty! kOKO
it will shut off at 20 from too low pressure. often a restriction from a bad expansion valve does that, but low refrigerant can do that too.
You're awesome and informative, Scotty. Thank you for passing along your knowledge. You've helped me in many situations, WAY above my pay grade!
I have a 94 supra and my a/c work great when I first turn it on for about 15-20mins then it goes from cold air to just slightly cool air. I put a set of these gauges on my car and when I first start it up I get 32 low side and 201 high side. Then after driving and the air gets less colder I have 15-20 low side and 201ish high side
Really good one - guys, just remember to purge the lines as you crack open the Schraders. You'll lose a touch of gas but you won't introduce any air to the atmosphere in the system.
How
Yep. The clutch is spinning. Theres some kind of cover that makes it hard to see but finally saw the clutch engage. Thanks.
Look closer at your gauges. The temperature chart you refer to is printed right on them, around the outside. Also, while this is fine for diagnosing, no layman is likely to have the equipment or tools needed to actually do any repairs, especially without venting refrigerant to the atmosphere.
Thanks, Scotty. This clip confirms the issue I have with my rear A/C not working.
Up until the other day my automatic A/C has been working great in my 08 Subaru Legacy GT. My compressor started short stroking but when it does run the low pressure is in the normal range. I checked the relay and the clutch engages fine. There's enough refrigerant in the system.
depends where the valve is, some like many chryslers are on the firewall, take half an hour. some are inside the dash like mercedes, take a day. Look it up on any data system for labor hours
Dude you rock Scotty! You have such a great entertaining and informative video. Most are just boring and fluffed with information. You actually kept me watching where many just talk nothing and I close the video out. Thank you!
CAUTION - NEVER open the high side valve on the gauge when connected to a system with charge in it and the yellow line connected to a small canister. The high pressure gas could back flow into the can which is not designed to withstand high pressure and could explode. Only open the Low pressure valve on the gauge to recharge.