Video není dostupné.
Omlouváme se.
Efficiency test LTO Yinlong battery
Komentáře • 481
Další v pořadí
Automatické přehrávání
$493 Aliexpress 45Ah Grade A, YinLong Lithium Titanate (LTO) Cell TestingDIY Solar Power with Will Prowse
zhlédnutí 376K
Campervan DIY battery build HUGE POWER!Brendon Tait
zhlédnutí 1,1M
Can an 18th Century Battery Charge Your Phone?How To Make Everything
zhlédnutí 769K
Truck catches on fire and biker helps put it out 🔥😱 (via themountainmiller/ig)MasFace
zhlédnutí 22M
I'm Excited To see If Kelly Can Meet This Challenge!Mini Katana
zhlédnutí 35M
This is the Biggest SAW in the World 😱🪚 #camping #survival #bushcraft #outdoors #lifehackMarusya Outdoors
zhlédnutí 19M
Replacing a valve on a full water tank! 🫣💦 - 🎥 the_ladyplumberUNILAD
zhlédnutí 143M
Battery testing Low temperature LTOBrendon Tait
zhlédnutí 17K
I was wrong about Lithium Titanate batteries. But should you use them for solar? 2020 UpdateDIY Solar Power with Will Prowse
zhlédnutí 161K
Cheap "Grade A" Batteries, Why Do People Keep Buying These!?Lithium Solar
zhlédnutí 159K
Your USB-C Cable probably SUCKS! Sooo is that Bad?GreatScott!
zhlédnutí 708K
It Happened! Elon Musk Revealed Crazy Concept Battery LTO, That Break All Industry!TESLA CAR WORLD
zhlédnutí 213K
Battery-Powered MagnetronHyperspace Pirate
zhlédnutí 588K
How good are these EVE 304Ah batteries? Worth buying?Off-Grid Garage
zhlédnutí 50K
18650 3000mAh LTO Lithium Titanate Battery? (Testing)EV - Customs
zhlédnutí 13K
Lithium Batteries for Car Audio? Yinlong LTO Cells LTO66160H 8000 watt capable Battery Bank [4K]Williston Audio Labs
zhlédnutí 289K
Tary Drink stačí zalévat! 😂Tary
zhlédnutí 231K
Insane Coffee trick EXPOSED 😱☕️ #shortsWian
zhlédnutí 7M
Wait for the last one! 👀 🍽️Josh Horton
zhlédnutí 18M
Pool Bed Prank By My Grandpa 😂 #funnySKITS
zhlédnutí 19M
Sad To Announce I Did Not Qualify For Mens 2024 Olympic Gymnastics TeamThe Rock
zhlédnutí 28M
Symmetrical face⁉️🤔 #beautySwasti Ji
zhlédnutí 15M
Rybičky48 - Já dneska slavím feat. MilfkiRybičky 48
zhlédnutí 290K
Harley Quinn's plan for revenge！！！#Harley Quinn #jokerHarley Quinn with the Joker
zhlédnutí 31M
Why are people thinking that I am disagreeing with Brendon? The comments below are driving me nuts. I had grade b cells (which I mentioned was a possibility in that video), and I pulled full capacity in my part two video. Why are commenters below thinking that brendon is challenging me or disagreeing with me? I think this video and the last one that brendon posted are great. I still prefer LiFePO4, but LTO is awesome in its own regard. But why the bad attitude in the comment section?
Haha, I know right... everyone thinks we have beef lol
@@brendontait6968 right?! I'm enjoying your videos and people think I disagree with you or something. I don't understand. I can't wait to see what else you build and further test with LTO. It's awesome
Thanks mate, am gonna play with any chemistry I can get my hands on (can be pretty difficult this part of the world, a little jealous that things are so much easier to get hold of in the states).
I honestly think LTO is quite fascinating. I just can’t afford to build a big pack with it and I’m just more comfortable with LiFePo4. I’m glad someone else can teach me more about them.
Probably because the vast majority of people are too stupid to do any thought process of their own.
I'm enjoying this ongoing discussion and gradually learning stuff about battery chemistry. Thanks for the lessons Brendon, you're a fast talker so I play the videos at 75% normal speed 😃; gives my 76 year old brain time to process the incoming data.
Haha, thanks Dav. I feel that I'd lose a bunch of people if I talked slowly. Glad CZcams has that option for you! I'm going to be covering a bunch of stuff and doing both beginner and advanced videos. Glad you're learning some.
Another indicator is heat given off during charge and discharge, those cells would cook very quickly with their relatively small surface area to capacity if they were inefficient. Keep up the good work.
Definitely!
If they cook. It will be bad in this test, because more energy would loss in heat.
Yep but a low CE does not necessarily give you heat it can also split electrolyte and similar which requires more energy. Though low ce will also destroy the battery most likely. Because where would all this 15% electricity go? Do something else which doesn't sound good
The larger the battery the less surface area to volume ratio, heat has less area to dissipate.
WARNING! Loved this video. And love this cells. But I think that people writed you about efficiency is not about comparing Ah. If you use more voltage to get in that 41Ah. You need more Wh (energy) than you will get back. You can see it clearly on your Wh results. You used 97.1Wh to get 83.4Wh. That is real efficiency on how many energy you use to charge it and how many energy you get from the cell. It happens on all kind of batteries as you mentioned on your video. It gives us a total 85,9% real efficiency what is very very nice. But that are the real numbers. Thank you for your awesome test
Listen at the 1 min area. I explain this quite comprehensively. I mention that I prefer Wh as a metric, but it's difficult to measure due to the low cell voltage (because of the wire losses). You CANNOT use the Wh given by the meter to infer how many Wh the battery took or gave out. The losses in wiring/connection points will add up and give you a significant error. The reason I put the multimeter directly on the cell terminals rather than inline or on the battery meter are for this reason, again it would give me a significant error. These cells have a very low internal resistance, so the Wh vs Ah numbers will be very similar. These cells are not like charging a lead acid battery, you do not see significant rise or droop in voltage when you apply or draw current from them. Have another listen to the explanation I give at the beginning of the video and if you need further clarification I'll try help some more. It's important to understand the limitations and inaccuracies in measurement systems and where they come from.
My entire life I've had a difficult time understanding electricity. Your videos are so well explained I finally get it. Thanks!! Subscribed!
Hey, I'm glad they are helping. I'm going to be doing a lot more with in depth detail.
The safest, fastest ,longest lasting and cheapest per cycle.
It just takes up a little too much space. For me, can be ignored.
May not be cheaper than lead acid
@@sayyidsahal4533 is cheaper...if i remember almost half the price
@@sayyidsahal4533At 1C LTO are good for over 25,000 cycles to 60% remaining battery life after all those cycles.
Your battery pack always intrigued me as I want to build an electric only off grid camper. The fact that these can charge at -0C and the absorption rate is awesome always made a lot more sense in a situation where I'd be relying on them for overnight heat. Running high current draw things like electric showers or cookers would be perfect for the application and I think you could get around any inefficiencies with some extra solar panels, assuming your application of these allows adding a 300w solar panel which obviously rules out a lot of the smaller #vanlife type of builds.
looking at these arnold for the same reason i got a 1969 open road catlina that i am in the process of doing a tear out on and a rebuild, which you know as in a van or a slide in camper room is at a premium. which i will be updating several components in . please keep me informed on how oyu do with these either thru here or on facebook,, thanxs
Hey Arnold, yeah.. I'm going "full' electric, but I think hot water heating is probably a bit ambitious even for my pack. I might use bleed power to heat HWC when battery is fully charged. But that is about all.
@@brendontait6968 i used a 30 L Nautic Boiler it also has a heat exchanger and you can get 300 watt element i use a 500 watt with 390 A/Hr lead battery's i got 1400 Watts solar with a 5k Victron muiti Plus
@@brendontait6968 You could get higher efficiency heating with black heat pipes circulating water into a boiler. That would eliminate the 85% efficiency losses of solar and take the stress off of your batteries. Heat pump would be a nice option for 500% COP efficiency heating as well.
@@brendontait6968 try black PVC PEX pipe solar water heater
Lto is the best and safe ima use them for extreme car audio
100%
Dude, I love your video's. Its all scientific evidence which people refuse to teach and educate themselves on rather than be told what to believe. I will be honest though, electricity is one of my weak pooints and you lost me early on on the vid but you have given me a avenue to go and learn so thankyou.
I appreciate that! Follow along and I'm sure you'll pick it up. A lot of electronics seems overwhelming at first but when you break it down into basics it all starts to make sense.
This actually is extremely unscientific if not intentionally misleading. The base assumption of ignoring Round trip ENERGY efficiency is itself wrong. That is what actually matters.
Hey mate, I'm pretty close to blocking you from my channel. I was in no way intentionally misleading. I explained fully at the start of the video that I was measuring coulombic efficiency and not energy efficiency and mentioned the reasons why. I take time out of my weekends to make these videos for very little in return. I made sure that I was very clear about how I was going to conduct the test. To say that I am being intentionally misleading is disrespectful, unappreciated and incorrect. I'm not sure if you just like to stir shit, but I'm not going to tolerate this sort of thing in my comments.
Thank you for your test. The efficiency is approx 86%.
The coulomb efficiency is relevant to ensure that you for a few cycles are charging and discharging to the same level. At 1:55 you say that you loose charge due to internal resistance - you are not loosing charge - you loose energy. I could calculate the correct efficiency from your video - you charged with 97,1 Wh and you got 83,4 Wh out of the battery - so the efficiency of the battery is 0,86 or 86%. - and that is actually realy good. And probably closer to 88% - you did not discharge fully....Based on this test - i will get some LiFePO4 batteries :)
Hi Bjorn, you are incorrect with your assertion. I even mentioned in the video why it would not be possible to use the Wh reading on the meter to measure efficiency. Check my low temperature video for more details.
@@brendontait6968 Hi Brendon. You check amp hour to see if you get wha you pay for - and whats really relevant you check Wh charging and discharging to check energy efficiency. I did not hear any viable explanation in the video. Whats your argument? Kind regards Bjorn
Please watch my video for low temperature testing of these cells. I explain with a lot more depth in there.
@@brendontait6968 Hello Brandon. I watched your video on low temperature testing and correct me if i am wrong - you state that you got a voltage drop of 0,5 V from relative short wire and connector. If you discharge with 10 A you are claiming wires and connectors has a resistance of 0,05 ohm (using Ohm's first law) - It should be considerably lower by a factor of 10. The units you are using are of some interest to me - i got several and are using them when I have a class that are learning about efficiency and batteries. I have tested the units against "expensive" equipment - and they are giving solid data - when they are working :)
I am not at all convinced that efficiency that you state is correct......! Best regards - you are an inspiration - and i will subscribe...
Hi Bjorn, it is not just the connector between the device and the battery, but extended wires etc. I didn't measure the voltage drop I just mentioned 0.5V as a possible example, I had wires coming from the battery to the meter also. But even if the v drop was 0.2V, that will still give you an error of 10% in each direction if you are reading the Wh reading on that meter. To use Wh on any meter accurately, you must use a 4 wire meter. I would be very surprised if I was wrong.
Brendon Tait, great job! I am about to install a 3KW solar system on top of my campervan (in Auckland), which is fully functioning when opening up as an awning, otherwise 1kw while folded... These videos help allot and all the help I can get is always appreciated. Once done, I will plug my plugin hybrid on to the system at a slow 8amp charging rate, which should charge it up in 5 hours during the day.. Can't wait for all the negative comments of overkill system once I youtube the final product!
Sounds amazing!
Thanks very much, Brendon! I really appreciate you taking on stuff like this.
No problem Jocke
Thanks for the video, Brendon. These cells are really compelling. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and observations working with them. Really love the build of how you used them in your van. Cheers!
My pleasure!
Hey Brendon, good test - at least this debunks a myth before it gains popularity. Thanks for taking the time.
disprove
@@brianwilless1589 (I'm not entering as foe) - but normally in the scientific community (though I do not pose as such) you'd pick out something in particular you don't agree with...Otherwise you'll view point is as good as Karens. Maybe you hold a valid point?
Seems between Brendon and Will (who've conducted testing of their own) there is some form of consensus, whilst Will tested recently on 12v, 24v & 48v systems mentioning on a 12v it doesn't offer the same return as the larger voltages.
Is there anything in particular you disprove of, regarding the study?
For weeks I study just to understand this short video.. Finally I fully understand.. worth subscribing your channel and I hope to see more content on this LTO battery.. Thank you 🙏
Glad you took the time. I'm going to be doing a bunch more. Cheers
I've had the CPS-6016 for a few years now, it is an excellent supply for the money, and very compact. Voltage goes up to 63V at 17A which is a nice bonus!
Hey... yeah, I find it a really good supply tho like I mentioned in the comments you have to be mindful of the high capacitance on the output if running circuits in constant current mode.
@@brendontait6968 Totally! I make a habit of starting a load at undervoltage levels or constant current mode before dialing it up. The output capacitance is quite sizeable.
I did more of a crude test on mine and noticed a steep drop in voltage from full charge. This made me think they were a scam. But once nominal voltage was reached they just seemed to hang out there forever, and the performance turned out to be really good. Glad to see further confirmation. They are a hefty investment and something you definitely want to be sure about.
Yeah for sure - they have a fairly steep charge knee at either end of the charge curve
Extremely safe and efficient power storage.
Nice to see you do this test. Battery efficiency is more than just the power in vs power out ratio. Since they are electro-chemical devices, the efficiency is effected by temperature during charging and discharging, age, condition, charge/discharge rate, charge/discharge levels, self discharge rate, internal resistance, and types of use. Most people are surprised to hear that flooded lead acid deep cycle batteries used in off-grid systems are generally 94 to 98 percent efficient in the way they are used.
The internal resistance has a lot of effect on the efficiency. I use the analogy of push starting a stick shift vehicle. A Volkswagen bug has low "resistance" to movement. It takes very little energy to get it moving, one person can get it going quickly. A low resistance battery takes very little energy to start charging. A small current flow will start charging the battery, and very little is lost in making heat. A large truck or lorry has very high "resistance" to moving. It takes several people a long time to get it moving. A battery with a high resistance (Large flooded lead acid) will require a certain amount off current flow just to overcome its internal resistance. This power does not even charge it, and is wasted as heat. This is why the larger the battery bank compared to the charging source, the less efficient the charging. This used to be a bigger problem in the days of cheap flooded lead acid batteries and VERY expensive PV modules. People would complain that their system wasn't charging well. I would explain that their 100 watts of PV was not really even charging their 1000 amp hour battery bank, just heating it. This is why lithium cell manufacturer's list their cell resistance in the product details sheet. The lower the resistance, the better.
Just a little correction: Flooded lead acid batteries should not electrolyze very much of the water from the electrolyte under normal use, just when being equalized. But they will electrolyze some of the water from the electrolyte over time, thus the electrolyte level going down. They DO NOT recombine the oxygen and hydrogen. This can be done with flooded lead acid batteries by using a catalyzing vent cap, but it is not highly efficient, and some water is still lost. Sealed lead acid batteries, such as agm and gel, MUST NOT electrolyze the water in the electrolyte AT ALL EVER. They will "burp" the gas, and lose that water in the electrolyte permanently.
Good stuff, keep up the good work.
Thanks for the description. I'm not sure I agree with your correction tho. As far as flooded cells go - they have not been commonplace in the RV world for a while now - I had vrla/AGM/Gel in mind when I said that the gasses recombine since they are the most popular. While some cells use catalysts to recombine, there are other methods used by different cell types. To my understanding AGM and Gel batteries DO electrolyze the water in use and they each have their own methods for gas recombination. The 'burping' indeed happens, but only when the gas production exceeds the ability of the cell to recombine the gasses.
@@brendontait6968 You are to kind. Life is incredible in its many opportunities to make a fool of one’s self. You are indeed correct about the gas recombination in the sealed batteries. I have actually not worked with them in a long time, and forgot about that aspect of their chemistry. Just remembered the critical aspects such as voltage and current limitations, along with the dangers of thermal runaway. Any updates on the performance of your LTO battery system performance?
We are all learning.... I'm not always going to be 100% correct with everything I say on here, but I'd like to think the majority of the time I'll be accurate.
As far as the battery pack goes... it's great. I havent come across any issues yet and it gives me more power than I need.
@@brendontait6968I figure the day I stop learning will be the day I die. This is why teamwork is so effective. We can all fill in for each other’s lack of knowledge and creativity, or mistakes and forgetfulness. The best result is when we all learn and improve together. I have had children ask me “why don’t you do it like this?”, an my answer, as I stare at the obviously far better way the child asked about, is that it just didn’t occur to me. While some things are done for very valid reasons, the premise that those reasons are based on may change, or need to be re-examined. Keep up the good work, and never stop learning. It keeps us humble and appreciative of the world around us. It’s also lots of fun!
Hey brendon, great video. I've been running a 6s4p bank for a few years now at 15.4v and I run it up to a 10c discharge nearly everyday for my purposes, mostly on cold temps as well, and they have performed better then any other cells I've had. My application is very demanding and I've been constantly amazed by these cells time and time again. Been using them since 2018. Nearly everything about them is amazing in my opinion. I honestly shoe off the naysayers that talk about these cells because Ive had so much real world experience with these that no one can make me think bad about them.
There is another LTO cell that is 18ah, a lot smaller but much higher charge and discharge rate that I will be testing this year. I started a lithium battery business, so I have some contracts with Yinlong and a few other companies in china so I get to get a lot of these cells for low prices, which helps.
Thanks for the informative videos!
Hey, that's great to hear. Yeah the lishens definitely are a compelling price point too
@@brendontait6968 yes, very, great cells from what I've seen
Do you have a website or a Facebook page? Thanks for your comment.
@JTO2632
Are you still in business? Do you have a page / contact / ... ?
مساء الخير ممكن سؤال من فضلك ماهيه الاسعار المخفضة التي تتحدث عنها وهل البطارية تتحمل الشحن السريع والتفريغ السريع ممكن جواب على السؤال
Brendon,
So great to see another video.
You have a unique approach of practicality and technical information, without being preachy.
I place you in my top 5 CZcams channels.
Thank you.
Hoping for lots more from you.
Matt
(Brendon, my comments are heartfelt, not an attempt to blow smoke up your arse.)
Thanks heaps Matthew, let me know when I get to number 2! 🤣
Have had a lot of external stuff going on, hoping to get a heap more content out.
yea your right ive herd and seen that guys vid he had 5 or 6 litium titinate batt and he stated incorectly that the efficiencies where around 80 percent
Awsome thanks for the video as this has helped me to realize what batteries to get. LTO
Thanks for sharing. I measured the same high efficiency. .
I love the video. Way too technical for me so I'll just trust you and your math/skills.
Thanks, tho the more you hear technical talk, the more familiar you'll become and the deeper understanding you'll have. Thanks
Excelent test, LTO does have an advantage over LiFePo4 at low-temperature applications and number of cycles, but that's about it, LiFe is still a better and cheaper option otherwise.
Both chemistries will be probably obsolete by the time it will take you to cycle 2500 times a LiFe battery bought today.
Solid electrolytes are knocking at our door anytime now.
A true lifePO4 battery does seem safer, but idk if I can trust a battery to be truly lifePO4 made in china. China sells so many fake things, cheap mppt charge controllers that are really pwm. Fake fotec ssd relays. It's so easy to fake a battery as being lifePO4 at that point
Another great video, thanks Brendon!! I researched LTO 2-3 years ago & I'm 99.95% certain that I read the '85% round trip efficiency' from a manufacturer spec sheet, which could have been just a poor translation / translation error. Does anybody else remember seeing that spec?
Also, another funny "no formal training, just muckin about" moment: 'Great little watt meter, but it's not perfect, so I fixed it.' :-)
Thanks Frank, yeah... I haven't seen it aside from watching Wills video. It's possible that some of the early versions of this chemistry were at that level?
@@brendontait6968 Yes, that's possible. I do remember the distinct impression that it was a "deal killer" for me at the time. I'm just glad you've cleared this up, thank you!!
Round trip effieciency does it incude inverter loses?
The 85% may be at the rated discharge rate which for lto is commonly 10c to 15c which is ridiculous for most applications (for a 40ah cell that's a 600a continuous draw!)
All you are wrong with this video. He used amps hour to compare. You use more voltage to get in the 41Ah, this means you need more Wh (energy) to charge that 41Ah. It happens on all kind of batteries. But real numbers of how many energy you get in and how many you get out. You need to compare Wh used vs Wh given. You can check on the video that he uses 97.1Wh and he gets out 83.4Wh that is the real energy you used and got. And if you check this. Is a 85.9% real eficiency. What is so good. All batteries need more voltage to charge. So it don't means it's a bad efficiency. Is very good efficiency but that are the real numbers
These LTO cells seem like amazing batteries - and they have the ability to be used at quite low (-20°C ?) temperatures as well. I am though confused as generally Will Prowse is also a good person to watch and he disagrees with you regarding their efficiency. I would assume any inefficiency would primarily show itself as heat? Perhaps encase the cell in an expanded polystyrene casing with a thermometer probe and repeat the exercise? Otherwise it would be great to see a video with you both in. It may be that Will has purchased sub-standard cells or something? Perhaps both run the same experiment at the same time and compare and share results?
Yes - I've watched you both with respect to LTO Cells.
Hi Mark, I agree, Will generally does have good information. I've talked with Will and from what I understand he agrees with my take on efficiency. I think there may have been a few things playing into the results he got. Firstly and possibly most importantly I think he had B grade cells. The shrink wrap on them was different to mine which makes me think they were probably grabbed out of some bin then re wrapped and sold. Additionally - a high C rate charge and discharge will drop the efficiency which would be more pronounced with low grade cells.
Yes, Mark, any inefficiency will appear as heat, however, an experiment where you place the cell in an insulated polystyrene enclosure with thermometer isn't going to tell you anything besides turning the cell + enclosure into an oven (adiabatic walls) and trying your best to increase the case temperature of the cell as much as possible. In order to determine what the temperature of the cell was, the experimenter is encouraged to maintain steady-state conditions by conducting the experiment in an environment with a *fixed ambient temperature.*
On the other hand, determining efficiency _electrically_ makes sense here because this device is made primarily for electrical energy storage.
Using the watt-hour figure for total energy, and assuming the initial discharge was to 1.8V (footage was lost) we get 97.1Wh over 4h40m and 83.4Wh over 4h10 minutes. There's an extra 30 minute discrepancy here which is due to the absorption phase of charging (CV starts at 4h6m at 10A, then 0.24A at 4h24m , then 0.15A at 4h39m). The calculated energy efficiency for this charge-discharge cycle is 83.4/97.1 *100% = 85.9% while the coulombic efficiency has been proven in the video to be 41.358Ah/41.4Ah * 100% = 99.8%.
_What does this mean?_
*Coulombic efficiency:* 99.8% of the electrons moved through the cell during the discharge cycle as compared to the charge cycle. Everything that happened with ions in the electrolyte, as well as the reduction and oxidation at the active material where the lithium titanite nanocrystals and the anode and cathode metal resided, were 99.8% efficient, as ion flow and electron flow have a direct correlation.
*Energy efficiency:*
Over a period of 4h10m, 85.9% of the energy was consumed by the load, and 13.7Wh was dissipated as heat inside the cell and along the cables. This heat is primarily influenced by the C rate of the discharge and the internal series resistance of the current collectors in the cell. Doubling the current quadruples the energy lost as heat (Ohmic power loss (Watts) = Current^2*Resistance). In order to get 99% energy efficiency, the experimenter simply needs to slow the discharge down to a 0.05C rate. This is true for any cell construction, including supercapacitors (EDLC) that have no chemical reactions taking place! Therefore, coulombic efficiency is more representative of the LTO chemistry, whereas the 86% energy efficiency is representative of the construction of the cell (length of current collector strips to electrodes, thickness of the strips, conductivity) and the system requirements.
*IMPORTANT* If you pause after 5:37 you can see the voltage drop between the watt-meter and the electrodes where the fluke multimeter is measuring voltage. There is about 0.2V dropped across this distance, which translates to 2W dissipated in the cables and contact resistance of the terminal block alone! There will be further voltage drop to the load as well, but over 4h10m this represents a massive *8.33 Wh lost as heat in the wires.* This was not accounted for in the energy efficiency calculation. The system efficiency may be 85.9% but the cell actually delivered 91.73 Wh to its electrodes, resulting in a cell energy efficiency of (83.4+8.33)Wh/97.1Wh *100% = 94.5% efficiency!
This is a very good result, and I hope the experimenter uses much thicker wires in their next test, or measures the voltage drop across the thin wires and accounts for the power dissipated across them.
the remaining 5.67Wh over 4h10m dissipated inside the cell and the remaining unaccounted-for wire length and contact resistance represents an average of 1.36W of energy dissipated as heat. If the current was quadruped to 40A or near 1C discharge, it would follow that the heat dissipated would increase by 8x at least (if efficiency does not decrease past 94.5%).
Also it follows that any capacitor or battery that can discharge into the 1000A level must have single to low double digit milliohm internal resistance.
I had grade b cells. I also posted a part 2 video where I pulled full capacity with higher quality cells. I did not disagree with Brendon
@@InfinionExperiments My suggestion of encasing the cell in an insulation layer was more about - is the cell being inefficient and generating a lot of heat. Obviously - I wasn't looking to start a fire or anything. Anyway, Will Prowse has since stated that he had grade-B cells and now with better quality cells, sees a much higher efficiency. I'm now a happy CZcams viewer.
I have been doing tests on these batteries for 2 years. The problem that these batteries after charging up to 2.8V are quickly discharged automatically.
In addition, each cells does not charge correctly. So at the moment of electronic calibration you will lose the total battery voltage. So, after a whole day of calibration, you need to recharge them again. I have batteries of the same company as you.
I approach these batteries sold by individual Chinese shops are waste (bad somehow) from a large company - Yinlong.
To buy good batteries, you need to apply directly to the manufacturer
Integrity is valuable - you are valuable !
Cheers
Thanks for posting! Loved the video.
Thank you. Really clear real world information again. Top man
Cheers Grant
There still is a voltage droop in the battery. if your efficiency is close to 1 then this seemingly small loss can be 1/2 your losses.
Add a V-meter to the battery.
If you don't want to hassle recording the discharge and charge voltage profile, just measure the voltage at begging and end of both charge and discharge and assume strate line between.
May want to take a few measurements at top off voltage and down 200mV to where the curve is a relatively straight line.
Or do a 100-0% and a 90% to 10% cycle to see how much top off efficiency changes as a function of charge rate. Not using constant current at end will help efficiency also
Thanks Brendon for the test on overall charge and discharge capacity, My 6Kw LTO bank has been running fine with a daily 7.4kW 24hr usage which 12hrs of that being over night, sun down, running on battery only, the only problem I have had is one cell bank of the 22S 3P is not running as it should, I think that I have a partly failed cell that has let me down, this has happened since first running the bank many months ago, I will get around to load test that set of 3 cells which will be replaced, My Victron app tells me overall of 844kWh usage which about 50% would have been from battery draw down
Hey Ross, One thing I have read about this chemistry is that it doesn't like the be stored with high charge and high temp. That is the only thing (ither than mechanical abuse) that I've heard can make them fail early. Am interested to hear your outcome.
Cheers
@@brendontait6968 I was very careful when tensioning the main 2 bolts and used a tension wrench just to be sure.
You was right of the too high efficiency ratio. Efficiency is to be calculated from Power consumption Wh, not Amp hoursAh. So it was 97.1Wh charging and 83,4 Wh discharging, so more like 85,9 was efficiency. Voltage makes the difference here, it is not same all the way on charging and discharging.
No it isn't - you cannot read the Wh indication on the meter - and I explained why in this video! Check my cold cell testing out - I do a round trip Wh efficiency test in that video.
Awesome test Brendon! Just as my real world experience with these cells, they perform to or above specification. My advice: do not listen to everything Will Prowse says. He's wrong about these LTO cells.
Thanks Daan, I think he agrees that he had bad cells or something went wrong and they actually do have decent efficiency.
@@brendontait6968 still he's very dismissive about LTO chemistry. Yeah they're not the cheapest or the lightest but for overland or heavy use cases or colder climates they're awesome!
@@daan3298 agree
Did anyone watch my LTO part 2 video? I pulled full capacity.
Why is everyone thinking that I disagree with Brendon? I like this video and I had the same results as Brendon. I also had grade b cells in the first video, and I mentioned that in the video as well.
I'm so mad you are making so Little video recently. Take care Brendon!
Haha - sorry about that Tomek, I've been too busy procrastinating...
@@brendontait6968 but Brendon - the quality of content you do, are inspiring to the other, but on the other hand, I can fully understood - that bitch is not taking "no" for an answer :P
Yeah I have two battleborn lithium iron phosphate and I show 99.49% charging them at about 35 amps and and discharging them at less than 10 amps
Thanks Brendon, I'm glad you did a follow up and cleared that up, appreciated
In order for current to flow into a battery there has to be a difference in applied voltage and the voltage of what is being charged. Therefore taking the charger off of the battery will instantly reduce the voltage at the terminals, this voltage at the terminals simply reflects what the level of charge the battery currently has.The battery never has the same voltage as the applied voltage until it is fully charged. Fundamentals of electricity.
Yes, but the amount of drop is highly dependent on the internal resistance of the battery. Due to the enormous surface area of the nanoparticle crystalline structure of the electrodes on titanate cells, the internal resistance is several orders of magnitude lower than some other chemistries.
Great logical analysis. Thanks.
This battery is specially made for high C discharge and used most often for audio purposes. People are able to draw up to 1k amps out of builds with minimal spacing for batteries...
Yeah, they have some phenomenal specs
really cool project! i love you to do a video on the bms you used with that many cells.
Another DIY pleb doing a real world test that would shame a lot of so called pro's. Well done definitely subed no questions asked. It's funny how the average run of the mill person does a more in depth and extensive test than most keyboard warriors on YT that just want to bad mouth and complain about a product. You took the time to research and thoroughly test a product for your application rather than going by a random test someone else did.
Cheers mate
Thank you.
I am a complete brain fart when it comes to electronics so thanks for taking the time to explain things visually
No problem CJ
Blimey you are so clever. I have learnt something today. Thanks
Thanks and glad to have helped
I'm still laughing about the "$hitty little connectors but this thing works better than that thing" just after a wonderfully articulated explanation of coulombic efficiency 😂😂😂 - The deadpan delivery makes it even better.
Absolutely loving your videos and you've saved me just before I started building our own battery pack ❤️
Hey Kyle, haha - thanks, just like to say it as I see it.
LTO? PFFFF.
Life4PO? PFFFF
Solid state baby!! Yeah!!!
Nailed it. Thanks for the update.
Cheers Aaron
Thank you for the videos, great work!
Thanks joni
Use a large like 20c or bigger load to really find out the health of individual cells. Keeping the c discharge at below c will not show much variation in voltage but you will see a different resistance number among the cells with a higher load revealing cells sagging and show you the health of each cell. The higher reistance cells will heat up much higher and will get worse with each cycle.
Love your work mate, keep it up. Cheers Deka.
Thanks Derek
I had already set my mind on using LTO on my electric scooters. The efficiency talk on yt did crashed the party a little. But now the good music is playing again. The LTO's are on their way and I'm curious how they will perform in real life.
No complaints with mine
In applications where weight is a concern, the mediocre energy density of only about 80 Wh/kg has to be considered.
they are nice cells indeed
Thanx. Mike Scotland..
What needs to be discussed is the high costs of the batteries, especially in price gouging Australia, just one of the cells was about $52au with a crazy $180 delivery charge. It seems to me if you live in the USA it's all mega cheap, and its free delivery or local pickup easy, But if u live in Australia, you have to pay for freight, exchange rates, duties taxes its endless, ends up costing over double or triple. If you buy them of ebay its cheap but you will get a inferior or fake battery, or perhaps the case filled with sand.
I live in NZ and we have Jacinda. If you think delivery and taxes are bad in Oz, you ain't seen nothing.... bulk rates can become quite affordable (shipping per cell on a bulk shipment was around $5) You do have to do research to ensure you are dealing with a reputable company tho....
Super good info, thank you for sharing
No problem
no offense i would rather set thru an unedited vid that is a bit longer as it gives you more insight to your thinking and so i can learn what is going on with a bit more detail :) love your videos ,work you do ,and how you explain everything
Hey Paul, thanks for the input. I have issues talking to a camera, have always been uncomfortable in front of them and trying to make videos concise. As I get more comfortable and don't mince my words so frequently I'm bound to do less edited videos. Cheers
Great video
Very helpful 👍
Great info. Thanks…..subscribed
Cheers Mike
You are right about the efficiency. There are other unfortunate problems with the chemistry though. I looked into LTO extensively and I really wanted to love it but it just doesn’t make sense for me.
What other unfortunate problems do they have?
@@brendontait6968 Only relatively small cells are produced. So to make a 30 kWh pack would a huge number of cells and would take up a ton of space. Unlike LiFePo4 which comes in 280ah cells. Also they are extremely expensive and far more expensive to ship per wh. Also the working voltage doesn’t generally work well with standard 12v equipment. Basically it comes does to use case. For an off grid solar setup or any 12v solar setup it is extremely hard to justify LTO when LiFePo4 is often more compatible, weighs less, takes up less space, still lasts a very long time, uses less overall cells (can be easier to service/build packs), and comes in a larger variety of cell sizes. So even at a similar cost LTO really only has C rates and cycle life going for it, but with LTO at 4x the cost it’s a no brainer to go with LiFePo4 in my opinion.
it also has low temp going for it. for an rv that is useful
@@justicelee26 i chose a LTO build for my rv because i live in ohio which 55% of the time, its cold as hell. down to 2 - 3 degrees Fahrenheit. and LTO cells are claimed to be able to be used in those temperatures, and even colder. Lifepo4 is so much easier in some ways because there is a huge selection of BMS for them.
So keen for a new video from you.
working on one at the moment - cheers
Cheers
Interesting video thanks, don't forget to post the link to the electronic load :)
Done! Thanks for the reminder... late night post!
Good, bad or great, I'd still like to have atleast a 25v bank of them! Atleast 500 ah! They should last forever as far as I'm concerned! If Taken care of..
That's the hope
What would that cost?
Can you build a bank of 10 batteries that you have tested, staggered 5 high 2 rows wide to be mounted vertically and I will buy them from you for that piece of mind knowing that you tested them. Amazing videos Sir! Thank you for your time. And how can our family send you a gift for you and your family? Cheers.
Hey Travis, unfortunately I'm very time poor so won't be able to help you with this. If you find a reputable seller, you shouldn't have any trouble with getting fake cells. flick me a msg on insta if you want more details or advice. Thanks!
That's pretty good Brendon. They are substantially dearer than LiFePo4 cells though...what drew you to these specifically?
Based on a previous video, it's due to the extra cycle life of this chemistry making it overall cheaper per cycle. E.g. if LTO was good for 10x more cycles but was only 5x the cost it would be twice the value in the long-term, as you would need to replace your LiFe pack once to achieve the same overall life that LTO gives. (Of course not quite that straight-forward, but hopefully you see what I mean.) He talks about this here: czcams.com/video/kYx097cVR48/video.html
From what I can tell, the LTO are almost like the "led of batteries." ie they last longer than the item they're in. I would imagine, in Brendon's build, that the LTO cells will easily last as long as his van. So, maybe, that's the driver?
Hey Benny - long life, safety and ruggedness. I think the cost works out somewhere between 2-3 X more expensive than I could have built an LFP for.
Thanks all for you help!
I'd love to see the same thing with high discharge, low charge and low discharge, high charge. Nice research anyways
Yeah - I just have to make up a 200A supply to charge them - I'll put it on the list.
As I understand it, if you gather enough politicians together the amount of hot air expelled, when converted to electricity, will easily exceed 200A.
Yes Wat Hours is the real measure of capacity
Yeah thats a nice Test. But voltage during charging and discharging does matter. You can directly calculate the losses from the difference between "no load voltage"(after the battery was Just sitting still for a while) and charging or discharging voltage multiplied by the charging / discharging current
You're right, it does matter, but I believe the difference between coulombic and power efficiency will be low. I don't agree with measuring the no load voltage as the internal resistance of the battery changes at various state of charge, additionally there will be electrochemical processes that will alter the voltage. I may do another video measuring the actual efficiency rather than just the coulombic to appease people.
@@brendontait6968 looking forward to See that Video :)
Great video Brendon, very informative , you definitely deserve more subs keep it up. These batteries are a winner for sure 10amp 25% charge / discharge is perfect range.
Cheers Pat
Thanks for that Pat. Been super busy, will get to loading some more content up soon. Cheers
Thanks so much for clearing thus up for everyone! ~from a happy Canadian
Thanks and you're welcome, stay happy
Great video. Thanks.
Cheers
Amp hours mean nothing watt hours mean more amps times volts equal watts in theory it should take less amp hours to charge than discharge to have equal watt hours
Yes, tho until someone provides me with a ytterium barium copper oxide based test rig, it is too difficult with low voltage cells to minimize the wiring/measurement loss. Wh and Ah efficiency should be very similar in this chemistry.
Cool! Love your content
Thanks Colin
The more I learn of this battery type, the more I like it. 6c charge & discharge. Full charge in 10 mins (6c). Up to 25k cycles, -50 to +60C operating range.
Do they like other Lifepo styles, prefer 30% to 80% discharge / charge range for greatest lifecycle? cant seem to find that info.
Hey Jonathan, I don't think they care so much about being held at a low state of charge, however... like other Li chemistries I think they hate the mixture of hot and high SOC. This is the only condition that I've found so far that seems to limit their life.
@@brendontait6968 the best measure incorporates the energy I love having to give batteries a second life and Manufacturing new ones for the original application over and over again. We know that this might go down in terms of the number of Cycles given what we hear about the highest density research in which it will be released to the real world when it reaches the minimum number of cycles that the real world will tolerate.
So those who talked about lithium iron phosphate having comparable numbers or misleading people. They are not counting the energy to engineer Finance build ship dispose of Etc multiple times.
The rule has notable exceptions. Because of the increasing efficiency per square mile or kilometer I'm converting photons to electron voltage the optimal cost engineering for number of years is no longer number of decades but even for many climates the life expectancy of the extremely lightweight extremely high efficiency no glass no rigidity panels which you don't have to orient towards the Sun but can simply lay on the ground that is what makes sense given the ultimate cost engineering where you put out these Sheetz for the first half decade and maybe if you're doing electrolysis you have the electrolyzers cellular Lee distributed to the fields pumping water extracting gas. That's how you cost engineer. The idea that we will be wasting land in many places on foldable text is also insane. Electricity is becoming increasingly useless and I don't expect the demand to increase over time. I do expect photons to be used more that we will drink less processed corn syrup and more engineered platonically manufactured nutrition.
But the main thing is that electricity is already so cheap round-trip efficiency doesn't really matter unless you are dealing with a very limited roof like on a RV and are not getting your energy from the grid primarily with some sort of a rational justification for that.
This is why I opposed the financial shenanigans with SunPower. This company has the solution and it's getting away from the insanely expensive currently I'm controversially reported bottleneck for glass. Glass has nothing to do with foldable ticks it is a legacy cost for the bank. the bank wants to get a fraudulent representation that the future Net Present Value will allow the solar farm to continue to earn money lol. We know that the panels being engineered for half a century are going to be pulled within a decade and at their manufacturing cost is about 1000 per cent more 10 panels which are far more efficient I need to be reconditioned after half a decade. but we don't have a conscience in the manufacturing Arena it's all about exploiting the ignorance of do-gooders. China is an evil entity there are design for solar Farms is consummately corrupt. Lightweight flexible high efficiency cells last a long time. It's okay to not wash the windows because you don't have Windows but instead just changed the sheets from time to time. Who does that who buys sheets based upon how many years they can leave them on the bed without washing them? when it comes to solar panels only the entirety of the world.
I think these would be perfect here in Finland! 🙂
In - 20c LiPo Is useless!
Deff, I might do some discharge tests in sub zero conditions just to see.
@@brendontait6968 I'd like to see a sub zero test... In a chest freezer perhaps?
You may find that E will improve even more if you make all of the wires as short and connector free as possible. There are losses there as well so consistancy and optimizing the set up really matters when you are looking for accuracy.
Sorry for the slow reply... I think making the wires as short as possible etc. is irrelevant for accuracy in what I was measuring. The cell voltage is so low that it will be difficult to eliminate those losses. In my mind, rather than trying to reduce losses you should either eliminate them or measure them. In this example I measured the cell voltage at the cell terminals, this essentially eliminates voltage drop in wires/shunts etc. In hindsight I should have measured the voltage with a separate connector to the cell terminal rather than sharing.
@@brendontait6968 Battery voltage measurements should always be made using a Kelvin connection placed as close to the battery as possible. Sense lead loops are not without losses which are compounded by the amount of current that flows through them. When working with low voltages even uA can matter because they result in an apparent Vb that differs from the actual Vb and the error is a greater % of the actual. This implies that the measurement loop should ideally be as short as possible/practicle and not be single ended. The currents are dynamic and vary with battery voltage so although not impossible to account for through charactertization they have some influence. Therefore, it is very important to make the measurement with a device that has a high input impedance to reduce the current to within acceptable limits. When viewed as a system if any part of the load current path is shared with the measurement path the varying load current will distort the battery measurement making the Kelvin connection important to accuracy. Often over looked are the high current path's current ratings and/or AWG wire size. In many applications the acceptable current carrying capacity of a wire is not adaquate for an application because even though its temp rise meets the spec its voltage losses are greater than desired. Depending on the application and the degree of loss improperly sized wire can even lead to system instability.
I agree with other commenters here --- if you have inefficiency -- that wasted energy must go somewhere and in most cases that is seen in extra heat. No heat? Then efficiency is good. It is expected that those batteries are of a lower grade and are mislabeled so the Chinese company can sell them.
I disagree. The reason is, how do you quantify that heat as efficiency loss. Everything you put electricity into will get warmer (except maybe some chilled ytterium barium copper oxide). You need to put a quantifying factor in that is measurable. What temperature increase would show it is good or bad? 1 degree, 10 degrees? These cells only has a small surface area for it's volume so won't dissipate heat as well as other cells. So you cannot even say 'battery type A raised by 5 degrees and battery type B raised by 10 so battery A is twice as good' it could be the volume to surface area ratio of A is 5 or 10 times as much. The best way to measure energy efficiency is to measure the amount of power you put in and the amount you take out, then you have an actual measurable efficiency.
@@brendontait6968 This is all basic physics and chemistry. In fact, your professor in college will flat out tell you that without normal inefficiencies in all energy systems -- the world would blow up. The point is that if a battery is highly inefficient -- it will give off a lot of heat during the charging process. It will always give off some heat, but very little if the charging process is efficient.
@@keithsummers2842 I dropped out of college tho 🤣🤣 I understand your sentiment and appreciate that in most cases lost energy gets converted into heat. And yeah, I'll likely add thermocouples to cells in some future videos. But... I like to be able to quantify things. You cannot look at two different batteries side by side and get an accurate representation of their efficiency by measuring their corresponding temperatures. There are too many variables to take into account. What is the specific heat capacity of the cell, what is it's emissivity and surface area to volume ratio... the list will go on. You cannot say this cell raised in temperature by 8 degrees so that means it has X efficiency compared with this different cell. You can get a pretty good shot at efficiency by measuring power in and out tho.
@@brendontait6968 Correct -- it is just a generalization...
sweet. keep hammering away
Thanks, will do!
Brilliant!
Cheers Michael
Most interesting battery system so far for me, would love to have a full order list for a camper plus a home solar storage solution.
I'm going to be looking into a home storage setup in the future, stay tuned
@@brendontait6968 wow, great! For me the first sustainable battery solution I would tend tu use the word sustainyble so far... 30+ years is a benchmark efficiency is not the key and as you showed not the point its the momentary price tag... thats all.
The efficiency issue is that you are only taking into account current. You are charging at higher voltage than you are getting on discharge. The meter you used gave you a Watt/Hour figure - if you had used this, I think you would have found the cells were still ok - but may have found the efficiency was nowhere near the 99.89% you reckon you had.
If your AVERAGE discharge voltage was 2.3v and your average charge voltage was 2.5 (let's give the cell the benefit of the doubt - and your current in / current out was essentially the same, then you can see that your efficiency was around 92%.
As I say, the meter you used gives you the Watt/Hour figure as well as the AH, i think it might have given you a very different set of figures.
I disagree completely. And I explained the reasoning for this in the video. The cell voltage is low which means that even fractions of a volt of loss in the wiring in both directions will show a large impact negatively when using the Wh reading on the meter. If the battery is say sitting at 2.4V and I put a 10A load on it, it stays at 2.4V (at least till some capacity is drained) conversely if i put a 10A charge on it. It stays at 2.4V. I'll do a video shortly showing another way of measuring Wh accurately.
It makes sense... ;-p
Good work
Thx Gabe
Having just now gotten into these threads.... do I read it correctly that a slower charge on this cells will aide in increase of the efficiency of the cells themselves? I am wishing to build a long range powered bicycle and will be using a small solar charger to recharge. Thanks for some great videos!!!
yea, I think that's generally the case with batteries. a slower charge rate will result in better efficiency. try to shove more power in faster and you get higher losses.
I have the same power load device, but I also find it to be rubbish. 1. the connectors cause too much voltage drop, 2. there is no secondary battery voltage measurement wire (2 wire) so accurate capacity monitoring is not possible.
Otherwise it's okay.
It's so much better than my previous. But yes, terminals are horrible... but they are easy replaced. I dont find voltage drop an issue unless measuring Wh, because you can allow for the volt drop with the shutoff voltage
Love your work Brendon. Any chance you could do a video on how your system could work in a yacht/catamaran as there is a huge hunger for knowledge in this space.
Hey Brodie, thanks. Yes, as soon as someone donates a boat to me I'll be right onto it! I'm going to be doing a bunch more battery/electrical content in the near future. Most of the stuff I do will be directly transferable to boating environments.
Interesting, first in depth look at these cells in these videos. I always was intrigued by the 10c did/charge rating. I was wondering if I could take any advantage of this 10c regarding a solar cell config in a cloudy area...I guess having an over sized array will help in a quickly filled up battery? Anyway, keep up the good work
I;m not sure the high charge/discharge rates are of much benefit with offgrid systems
I just finished watching all your videos :-) You are an amazing resource to the planet... Leave some of your DNA frozen somewhere... One day when people cloning will be possible, we would need some of your DNA :-) Ciao
Haha... thanks, I think that is the most complimentary comment I've ever had!
Cheers
Any thoughts on using these to build an EV battery pack? What would you need, roughly 170 of these in series to hit 400v to drive a Telsa motor? That would be a lot of volume and weight, but since these batteries have such a high charge/draw amperage it might work, so I'm wondering if you think there might be a good way to do it.
TBH, I'd probably use 2nd hand tesla battery modules. But just be aware they can catch fire fairly easily if not nurtured. You'd need to parallel these cells up too to get some extra capacity. If i had my heart set on this chemistry for an EV, i'd use prismatic cells vs cylindrical to be a bit more efficient on space. There are better chemistries for EV applications tho.
@@brendontait6968, so not a great idea then. Stick with Li-Ion then or do you have a better idea?
Anybody that has some Information absolut the overall efficiency of those cells? Obviously there is still internal resistance and possibly other electrochemical kinetic causes of loss relating to the voltage drop you have from charging to discharging... just curious and I wouldn't be too surprised about bashing as people usually tend to simplify stuff and sometimes do not get the important details. Anyway very high coulombic efficiency is very important as you'd definitely not want current to go into other electrochemical reactions as those normally destroy stuff. Important video in that respect
The high coulombic efficiency shows that there is very little electrochemical losses within the cell as you mention. The very low internal resistance combined with the high coulombic efficiency would generally infer high energy efficiency. I will do a more comprehensive test in the future testing the energy efficiency of these cells. It is difficult to make a video that people will watch that has a lot of indepth information.
@@brendontait6968 i would find it very hard to believe that any li ion battery with a CE of 85÷ would last all too long.... and probably the results under high load are artificial ? Meaning discharge end voltage is not the same charge state as open circuit before charging... maybe a bit tricky to measure very exactly ... especially if you have this slowly linearly changing discharge voltage profile. At least at high discharge or charge rates I can imagine there are differences from end voltages charging/discharging to open circuit voltages empty/full
Probably a dumb quest Im on to, but Im considering to build a 48v50or60ah battery pack for my 2 cargobikes,,
I want to use it for longer trips were I from time to time need to charge the pack,,
But Im also hooked on the Molicel P42, but the safety in LTO vs Li-ion should be so much better,, ❓❓❓
I don't think a dumb question. The P42 is a good cell. I was initially going to build my pack with 18650s as I am able to get a bunch of them for free. I joined a DIY battery pack build page on facebook. I have never seen any one collection of as many houses burnt to the ground as I did in that group. Altho in most cases it was likely the error of the pack builder and I'd be mindful of risks etc. I still felt uncomfortable doing it knowing there is so much at risk. You could have an electronic failure in a BMS and all of a sudden your pack catches fire... Look at the LFP packs also, they are a safe and more affordable option. That being said... I think if they are bikes and you are not charging them in your house, the cost of damage from potential fire would be fairly low. The issue with LTO and LFP is fairly low energy density which is a big deal on a bike.
It doesnt heat up when charged
Hey Brendon nice videos, but the 99.9 efficiency falls over the quicker you charge and discharge the cell, of course this applies to al batteries and I assume that is why you didn't mention it but sometimes your battery could be drawing more than 1C and then you'll be losing that efficiency pretty quickly. Maybe do a comparison of Lipo and LTO chemistry at 2C or 3C? might be a bit harder to test but would be very helpful. keep making the good vids!
Hey Alec, thanks... but fairly sure I mentioned that around the 7 minute mark? I'd love to do some 5C charging but don't yet have the capability - one day! 1C on my battery pack is around the 9kW mark. So not likely I'll exceed it too often.
@@brendontait6968 cool thanks for the reply!
@@brendontait6968 Have you tried alternator charging yet? Is it a 12V or 24V alternator? Either way should at least hit 1.5kW. My car peaks at 130A when charging my supercaps to 14.2V from a low 10V on a cold morning. Keep in mind alternators are only 50% efficient, so for long charges like yours, you want to maintain 2000-3000rpm so that the alternator internal fan cools the windings.
Hey Brendon love the video and all the effort you put in, Do you still have surplus of these batteries still
Hey Alan, yeah I have a few left. Message me on insta
Hey mate
Brilliant vid.
Do you sell these?
I’m in Melbourne
Thanks heaps for the good info and demonstration to back it up.
Regarding getting my hands on some of these cells (in Australia, close to NZ); What is the best / cheapest method of shipping from China you have found? Or did you just go with the standard shipping from the supplier you linked to in your previous video? I tried buying some LiFePO cells and shipping was expensive (about as much as the cells, which turned out to be low quality anyway. arghh!).
Flick me a message on the email listed in the description in my battery video for group buy options