My DCC Deck Repair Didn't Quite Go as Hoped...
Vložit
- čas přidán 28. 01. 2021
- Digital Compact Cassette was a format from the early 1990's that didn't quite work out. What also didn't quite work out was my attempt to get a Philips DCC 900 deck operational again.
The DCC Museum: www.dccmuseum.com
Sources:
Technics RS-DC10 photo: i.pinimg.com/originals/3a/de/...
"Matsushita, Philips to Make New Cassette," Los Angeles Times, July 6, 1991.
"Consumers follow CES to the letter," Chicago Tribune, June 5, 1992.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please consider supporting my work on Patreon: / thisdoesnotcompute
Follow me on Twitter and Instagram! @thisdoesnotcomp
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Music by
Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com) and Aviscerall (aviscerall.bandcamp.com). - Věda a technologie
So sorry it did not work out. We are often called the last resort. It might indeed be better to just buy a restored player, but that would not have made this great video. The second generation players (DCC 300,305,600,380,91 and 450 f.i.) do not have the capacitor issues. All players need work, no matter what generation. Part of the plastic 90ies construction as well. Thanks again for your support and mention on your channel. We will do what we can do get you a working player.
Love my refurbed 951 I bought from Dr DCC a few years back.
Instantly thought of Dr DCC. Usually the videos I’ve seen of his (Dr DCC), it’s the caps that have to be replaced, as well as usual things like belts and such.
What kind of future proofing do you recommend for a 91?
@@MichaelGisiger Belts, pinch rollers and for sure the gear.
@@DRDCC Thanks, I already took care of the belts. Will look into the rest.
Hi Colin, soldering nerd here. A couple of points:
1. That first board is definitely repairable. From the images you showed it's the kind of thing I could do in an hour or two. It would look a little messy when done but is preferable to trashing a board.
2. SMD caps should be easy to solder quickly. The trick is to tin one pad, place the cap on top with a finger to steady it, and melt the solder. The cap will drop into the pool of solder. Then you can go to the other side, and solder that with a second or two of heat. Shouldn't need more than two seconds of heat on each pad.
Yeah, I've done lots of SMD soldering work also. I agree that board should be salvageable - there's no tight pitch components that I can see and it looks like most traces are on the outside. It'll be ugly, but could be salvaged with care and some nice 30 gauge (or less) wire wrap wire. Or that ultra fine enamel wire Louis Rossman likes so much. Maybe send it to somebody like Adrian Black from Adrian's Digital Basement? Somebody motivated enough could probably even just recreate the board. It looks like it would probably be 2 or 4 layers - pretty straight forward. For 4 layers, the 2 inner ones would probably be just power and ground planes (typical PCB practice).
Yeah, SMD caps aren't hard to solder. I use the same technique. I find hotter irons are actually better - you can keep the heat on for very short periods of time and get the joint done before the heat even conducts through the pad rather than burning the pad to death with an iron that's just barely hot enough.
I agree.
And Colin, try one of these: "Dual Headed Horse Hair Anti-Static Brush PCB Cleaning" (great to clean PCBs with IPA).
I'm not the best at soldering, but I think at this stage I would have given that board a go. Yes it looks like 20+ bodge wires needed, but I've seen worse boards on CZcams. Beyond economic repair? Probably, but that's the whole point of restoration, it isn't always economic.
Although the start of the video seems it will end in gloom and doom and it did, but after watching almost all of your videos, I know you are not a person who easily gives up and certainly, you did not disappoint.
I am not a DCC expert, but since you do have a scope, my suggestion would be to trace out the signal and see at what point you lose it.
Since you have a schematic/service manual that wouldn't be hard to do.
That already tells as so much more in what direction we have to look and think.
But I also don't know if you have the time and patience to troubleshoot this any further?
edit; reading the comments; yes along the same lines check all the oscillators and such as well
techmoan: "Give me some belts and contact cleaner ... there you are now working!".
Techmoan sticks to equipment from an era before the use of the dreaded SMT capacitors. The reason the through hole ones are more reliable is that the board shields them from the heat during soldering
@@MrDuncl Techmoan did do a DCC video. I believe he acquired a working deck though.
@@patrickcoco6205 True. VWestlife got a DCC deck as well but had to get the DCC Museum to fix it for him.
Techmoan has extremely limited repair skills. I don't think he can solder or use a multimeter. He seems to just wait around for machines in working condition, new-old-stock, or where the seller's description indicates that belts are the problem.
@@3rdalbum By his own admission. my post was just a nod to all those techmoan fanboys (such as myslef)
I'm always so intimidated by repairs but can occasionally get things fixed when I slow myself down. Looks like a nice dcc, shame it went through such a journey.
Great effort to address the issues on the boards, sad to see you couldn't succeed at it but I learned a lot about DCC internals with this video, hope you have better luck with DCC in the future!
Feel your pain. I’m sending my technics boards to dr DCC next week so hopefully the postal service in this area of Minnesota treats me good. Thank you for the fun and quality videos.
How did it work out for you?
I'm sorry that the repair/restoration didn't go as planned but I really enjoy watching how you go through and troubleshoot. It is rewarding to me to be more patient and take my time in life.
The DCC was a truely cursed format. I had the Technics deck and it failed under four years, same thing no sound. I was glad to see the back of my deck. I spoke to an engineer who said if you ran a dirty old analog type 1 cassette through your deck, then a new DCC tape it would strip the head as it was that fragile.
The irony is an analog cassette deck with a type 2 or 3 tape is capable of good audio, with Dolby C 80-90db dynamic range and up to 22khz on a good deck (I have a Yamaha deck which is excellent). Wow and flutter can't be totally eliminated but should be fairly low on a good, well serviced machine.
Dr. DCC is *THE* man to go to for all things DCC. i applaud your efforts to attempt to fix this and make a video about it. I was one of those guys who bought the 1000 new in box dcc and had Dr. DCC restore it. I bought into DCC when it first came out and ive had several decks over the years due to the leaky caps that crop up on the first gen units. that said, i still love the DCC 900 because it was the first model. I also have a DAT machine (sony pcm 7040) and TWO MZ-1's i bought when sony launched these decks. they are still brand new and I still use them to this day. there is a certain character about these first gen units that i like, this is why i chose them over the later ones with more features, etc.
Super bummed you couldn’t get it working. Even with the video title, I expected a positive outcome. Very impressed with the effort you put in, though, and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing an honest attempt. It's important to remember that not every tech repair goes right, and to not beat one's self up too much when they don't. After all, this unit is about 30 years old now.
Hate to see a project not workout. However, its important to show these adventures, even if they end in failure. It shows others who want to get into repairing retro tech that sometimes there isn't always an easy fix. Sometimes, it even ends in lost money. I still enjoyed the video! Hopefully in the recent future a replacement part or idea falls into your lap!
Great work showing a honest view of things! Specially where all other channels are more crazy about happy endings and feel-good focus.
Could it be that there are some delaminated oscillator crystals on the board that wreck havoc?
That's a good idea!
That's my first thought too!
I would've taken the mains board out to check if everything was up to spec, just because it appeared fine doesn't mean it's working
I didn't see any talk of the smoothness of the power as well.
I like your funny words magic man
Thx for all nit and gritty. I do to believe in saving our days in real music format. Lucky i have been buying my time. In having two DCC
players. PHILIPS 900 AND OPTIMUS Unit. Because of your video i had forgot were i seen info on Repairing DCC unit. I thought it was in L.A. but was not sure were. Thank so very much for your posting. ROCK ON!!! Marvin from Northern California..
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience! No matter it didn't go as planned, it was very educational and professionally presented, as all your videos. I do appreciate it!
This shows real dedication and attention to detail. Great job.
I'm sorry you had such bad luck with DCC. At the DCC Museum we see lots of success stories but we know some enthusiasts aren't so lucky. That first recorder's read-write board was definitely too far gone to repair and we're considering making compete replaced circuit boards with all new parts except for the read/write amplifier chips.
Anyway, I see you got the right analog channel to work, so believe it or not, you were probably really close! The non-polarized capacitors also go bad on the read/write board, and if I'm not mistaken, the audio for analog playback goes through those. You can replace each of them with two polarized electrolytic caps that are double the value of the original, connected in series with the opposite poles connected to each other.
You didn't show the error display in service mode after you had fixed the via with the bodge wire, but I wouldn't be surprised if at least some of the tracks were working now, and a thorough head cleaning might have fixed it.
Also, I noticed on the second recorder the connector for the flex cable on the digital pcb looks kind of damaged. Did you try using the digital pcb from the first recorder into the second recorder?
It's really unfortunate that DCC recorders are getting pretty hard to find in the United States now. I got back into DCC around 2013 and back then it was easy to find all kinds of DCC decks for around a hundred dollars or so. Right now you would have to go to the Dutch eBay or other Dutch sales sites to find anything other than the DCC900. But of course then there's the problem that they usually only work on 220 volts.
I just noticed watching, and listening to, this video that the tone and cadence of your voice is fit for narration and just makes me feel assured nothing bad is ever going to happen.
I admire you commitment to old technology. I once had an impulse back in 2008/2009 buying old electronics and living in the past. I gave up as many of them are just to brittle, damaged and basically unrepairable. Sad these things are lost in time but I have learnt it is an expensive hobby and not worth it being now in my mid 40s. Good luck and keep the videos coming.
I couldn't even tell you what your niche is. But you fill it perfectly. Keep the awesome content coming!
Thanks for sharing! Very well produced video. Sorry you didn't get the outcome you wanted but the insights you shared are very valuable.
Unfortunate ending, but you've managed to get a great story, and some valuable experience. At least you gave it a try! Keep making some of the best videos out there.
Thanks for sharing the story. Other CZcamsrs say that posting "it still doesn't work" is not good, but I'm glad you did.
Legally blind subscriber here. I imagine myself doing this repairs through you as I am incapable of doing it myself. Thanks for the awesome content. Sadly old technology is still expensive here and shipping costs are through the roof due to import laws.
Keep up the awesome content!
Stay healthy and cheers from Philippines!
Salamat sa iyong magandang salita! 🙏
@@ThisDoesNotCompute Thanks for taking the time to translate your reply!
Would you mind recording a video using only retro tech(for camera, audio, etc)? It would be a cool way to show people that you don't always need the newest gear to make your content look/sound good.
Well the cheeky answer is to watch some of my earliest videos! They were all shot with a cheap, basic camcorder and inexpensive mic. At some point I might explore tape-based camcorders (miniDV, etc) but I don’t have any specific plans right now.
I don't own a DCC, never owned one, and have no plans to buy one but I still enjoyed watching your video. I've been through similar experiences when I repaired both my McIntosh DVD and CD players.
Back in the day, I went to Radio Shack to check out their DCC deck. I asked the sales guy (who was probably no more than 20, at the time), if I could have a listen. He asked if I had heard a Minidisc (I hadn't). So, he told me to go check that out, first (like he was steering folks away). End result? Nearly 30 years later, I still have a sizeable MD collection (& no DCC).
I worked at Radio Shack for a while (much later than the time when DCC was sold there). And I know what kind of DCC recorder they sold. I wouldn't want to sell that thing to my worst enemy (and handle the return a week later). I think it's the only DCC recorder for which we don't have service information at the DCC Museum.
It is a nice to see a schematic with a device and even repair diagram, good luck find this in a new devices.
Hated to see it end up going south, here's hoping an answer emerges ... Always enjoy your work, regardless, thank you for sharing!
Both models made in Japan by Marantz, the third partner in development and part of Philips at the time. The newer models with decks that were made by Philips themselves in Austria, didn't suffer from the Japanese leaky SMD electrolytics problem that many camcorders suffered from as well.
Hey Colin, great video as always. Man I feel for you after watching this video. Well done for giving it your all and at least you managed to get a good informative video out of it that could help potential buyers think twice about getting into the format. Look forward to more great content in the future and keep up the great work mate 👌👍 All the best. Jamie
I had the same experience with the 900 decks. Sank a lot of money into two unfixable ones. So I gave up. Now I have a 36mm midi sized DCC-91. Excellent condition, no problems so far. But I live in Europe, so the supply of decks is somewhat better. I hope you find a working--or at least repairable--one someday.
Wow, what a bummer. Good luck man, thanks for the video.
i always love the part in This Does Not Compute videos where he says "so, i bought another one"
Been there before with vintage hardware. Walkmans and old computers have bitten me many many times. Sometimes you win some, sometimes you loose. But at least along the way you learn something new! Still loved the video as it's featuring something that is not common at all.
I hope you get this fixed eventually I think it would be interesting to see you get it working.
This was a really interesting video and I was really hoping for a good outcome for you. I love audio a lot and especially old audio tech. Great video, subscribed.
Great video, great effort to try and fix. Don't beat yourself up, these things are so damn touchy.
“Capacitor failure is a function of time, not usage” is the real takeaway here. I just re-belted my regular 1992 Sony cassette deck, and while it works great now, cap failure is always in the back of my mind.
8:11 man, those belt wheels are absurdly yellowed
plastic age
Damn. Such a cool device. It's so sad that you didn't repaired it.
It’s interesting and nice to see how modular the components are, it’s just unfortunate how it still didn’t work after all that time. Still a great video though a lot of information about DCC!
I had one of those tape decks. Fabulous sound, rubbish remote!
lol so even if he manages to repair the DCC, he still has to deal with the remote
@@D0NU75 for playback the remote was fine, but if you wanted to label each track you recorded off an LP with the song title, then you learned to hate that remote!
@@paulfredfield labeling songs is not even possible with the dcc900. They didn't introduce that feature until the dcc730 and dcc951, in 1994. The Technics RS-DC8 could store up to 4 texts for each song, but the user-stored texts could only be shown on those recorders, and on the latest model of the car stereo DCC player. Worst of all, the song-title editing feature was too little too late: you couldn't even enter an apostrophe!
By the way most universal remote controls of decent quality can be programmed to send Philips/Marantz "rc5" DCC codes (or rc5 MiniDisc codes -- they're the same). I use a Logitech Harmony with my DCC recorders.
@@JacGoudsmit ah yes mine was the dcc730 iirc. It went to recycling a couple of years ago after 20 years of no use! I think the recording bit rate was better than cd so a shame it was lost. But it was not a solid state format so it never had a chance.
Having spent a lifetime in electronic repair work, the one type of component
i dislike the most is surface mounted components.
These were introduced to make manufacturing faster and cheaper, but not
repairing pcb's that are damaged by leaking capacitors.
Once the acidic paste leaks under other components, then sits there for a few
years, it destroys everything in its path.
Sorry to hear that you have spent a lot of time and money trying to get a working
player.
I have often made the same mistake, especially with Laserdisc playes, thinking
that they only need a few more capacitors to get it working.
It's good to hear that there are people like DR DCC with the experience to return
repairable samples to full working order.
Experience and the knowledge to know when to stop fitting expensive parts in
a no hope repair counts for a lot.
Sometimes it just never works out. I am sorry to hear of your problems. I have a similar problem with my car stereo and have already bought one new CD changer. Some of the old tech others loved and we want to love, just won't be available to us latecomers. I also wanted a DCC deck but realised that the cost had already reached silly money. I agree with all of your conclusions.
Hello from Germany! With the end of the 90s there were some amount of used DCC Hardware from private sellers available. I bought a DCC900 with around 80 DCC-tapes (also some originals included) for around 200 EUR at that time. Had also the DCC600, DCC730 and the mobile one, all for a reasonable price. And i have seen still DCC Tapes in store (in the bigger ones). Today the prices gone crazy for DCC. It is better to play with another obsolete media like cassette or minidisc.
Seeing this video keeps reminding me that I have to eventually check the caps in the pioneer radio receiver that I have that's around 45 years old now. It still works, but speaker channels are finicky.
The thing's heavy as hell, though, so moving its gonna be a pain.
Clean the switches
Really hoping to see a subsequent video. But I can imagine your frustration as well. It’s a question of how far down a rabbit hole you want to go. Though luckily there is the DCC Museum and other helpful people. In any case I’d be interested to hear your views on the format.
Seeing that kind of damage in shipping is sadly very common. I ordered a clock/radio with a cassette player in it and it arrived 2 weeks late and had been destroyed in shipping. I got it somewhat working but could not look at it without feeling bad. It died completely a month later. I have only had one item delivered in the mail since then, instead opting to find everything locally as the chances are far lower that it will get destroyed with me bringing it back home. If possible, I suggest trying to find things locally, but I understand that with this hobby, that is not exactly easy.
Valiant effort to get these working again. I also bought a dysfunctional DCC deck ages ago (a Marantz unit, probably also first gen) but haven't bothered with it much because while trying to fix it I thought about it and the thing is that the format isn't very good when compared to DAT or MD or even recordable CDs (which came in roughly 1995 and pretty much put the final nail in the DCC coffin): basically you have all the limitations of the compact cassette (tape winding, blank space at the end of sides, difficult editing, etc) except now your highly compressed digital signal on the special and expensive new tapes is hiss-free! And also maybe you can edit them to have track titles (if your machine supports it and you have the remote and the time to wait as the machine shuffles through the whole tape to do it). Neat, I guess. I mean they're interesting from a technical point of view and they do a good job as playback decks for analog tapes (the head material can't be magnetized and they're pretty sensitive, tuned exclusively for playback pickup) but on the whole they weren't compelling unless you were both a luddite insisting on hanging onto your old tape library (yet not wanting to record to analog tapes because these can't do that) but also wanted to embrace the digital future.
That first read/write board is definitely salvageable with enough time and skill. Between the two units you have, I think there's an extremely good chance of getting at least one working. If you'd be interested in talking, I'm willing to take a look and spend the hours needed. I have a lot of electronics experience, and access to all the necessary tools and equipment. At the absolute minimum, I can restore that RW board.
Actually, if there's interest, I could produce a run of replacement PCBs. It would require salvaging the chips off the original board, but the rest are just commodity items.
In one or more double sided pcb when traces corroded check for continuity between the levels of a suspected trace.Also try to resolder smd components because there are cases that cutted in an edge and this getting lifted by the soldering tip.And check not only the removable pcb but the mainboard also.The smd chips are prone to dry joins and is good to be resoldered.Every microswitch inside the mechanism of course has be checked for good continuity.
As bad as the original board appears there is still a chance of repairing it. It may never look pretty, but to me it seems that there is still enough of it to work with. That isn't to say that there may not be other issues on the board beyond the obvious but as far as trace and pad repairs are concerned it has to be at least worth a try. I have repaired/restored lots of equipment with similar damage with more success than failures. It's all about how you value your time or how determined you are. Karl
I tried to repair the exact same model 4 years ago, but same result after recaping the digital board, I gave up on DCC DECK but insteal repair portable player such as DCC175 and DCC170 both succefully repair and work great.
That's a shame. I imagine old tech of this sort is a gamble. The mechanical side probably has its own potential problems, but at the same time is probably easier to identify and fix problems. With the electronics, you just don't know what you're getting, as you demonstrated late in the video with a different auction listing. It's cool that people keep these things alive and restore them, but it looks to be a tricky thing that's going to be too much for many, especially since some problems will not be obvious. Thanks for showing this as it was interesting and good luck if you you go back to this.
Nice honest video is always good. Keep up the good work.
I have that exact same one. I used to record Music Choice from my DSS back in the 90’s. LOL!
Definitely try and get a later generation deck if you can, even if you have to get it from overseas. I live in Australia and got into DCC about 6 years ago when I bought a DCC 900, which just didn't play tapes at all. Like you I wasn't able to fix it and was disappointed, but kept a look out for a later generation deck. Ended up getting a 951, which I imported from the Netherlands, which I've had for about 6 years now, and apart from needing a head clean a few weeks ago, hasn't skipped a beat. Just be aware of voltage differences - being that we use 240V here in Australia this wasn't an issue for me, I just replaced the Euro power cord with an Aussie one and it worked out of the box, but being in North America may be an issue for you.
Thank you for having us being a part of this Journey. It could be an alignment problem, What happens if you record analog audio and play it back?
We love the sound of the DCC!!! We mixdown our recorded multi track music from our TASCAM DP-32 direct to DCC, and the quality is so good we do not master our final product! You can hear our albums on our CZcams channel.
I certainly don't have any experience with DCC, but on the read/write board, it's true as you kept looking more at it, there seemed to be more corrosion. On at least one of the chips I did see a fair bit of corrosion at least on the surface of the solder joints. The only thing I can think to do is go over every millimeter of it with a microscope, vinegar, and see if you can find any damaged traces or solder connections. Short of that, maybe swapping out chips. But that would be expensive, not to mention very tricky, if you have to source another deck for the parts. I hope you have success. I know you have the ability, if you can figure it out.
Awesome video. Glad everything failed for entertainment purposes. And hope you find a great deck soon.
Man, appreciate the effort and I feel honestly bad for you for sinking that much time anf money into this. I made the decision for myself to restrict my "vintage" av gear to tape, record and vhs players. The latter costed me also a bunch of money bc of a recap job, but since its a multi region board I wanted to keep it alive. But this is much as I am willing to go.
Your predicament reminds me a lot of my own experience trying to get my Sony TCK96R analog cassette deck working right. Funny thing is it has the same problem as your DCC deck has when playing analog tapes - one channel is way too quiet. I've replaced caps, transistors, made all the adjustments I can think of or find in the service manual, and nothing ever fully fixed it. I gave up too, after having spent probably 30-40 total hours on it. Win some, lose some I guess. I still have my deck sitting at the bottom of my audio rack in case I ever find someone who can fix it right, but it's beyond me. btw, I worked at J&R Music World in NYC in the 90's and we closed out these DCC decks for $99. I remember thinking "should I buy one? Nah..." Always been one of my big regrets.
Does your deck have the green nichicon Bipolar Muse capacitors on the output board? One of them maybe shorted.
@@JD-lk7im I'll check when I have some spare time. I'm sure I have some photos I took when I was working on it that I could find in the meantime and that might tell me something. I went through so many tips that other people gave me at the time and none of them panned out. But I don't remember that one specifically, so thanks, and if I see those I'll just go ahead and replace them and see what happens.
I'm a BIG fan of your vids
you did the best! Keep going to next project!
Man, I have so much old tech laying around that needs to go away i whish we would live closer to each other so i could just give it to you, many many projects would await you...
Sony MD killed this format. I still have mine years later and works perfectly. Great Video!
Yeah. I remember watching a video on this maybe a couple years ago (probably Techmoan) that included video from the release demo of both formats.
Sony: Digital audio, recordable, random track access, teeny tiny little disc.
Crowd: THE FUTURE IS NOW!
Philips: Digital audio, recordable, individual track access (... pause for fast-forwarding to track skip... ... ...... ..... * cough * ..... ..... ), small cassette-sized shell.
Crowd: Oh, uhm.... hm. Yeah, erm, ...cool?
@@nickwallette6201 Watch the DCC documentary on the CZcams channel of the DCC museum. DCC was not intended to compete with MiniDisc, but was intended as successor to the analog cassette. In 1988, it was an excellent idea. But they lost a lot of time because Seagate didn't help with the heads, as they promised. Then all of a sudden, tape recorders (even high quality ones) became really cheap so it became impossible to sell DCC recorders at competing prices. They missed their window of opportunity (and didn't do a very good job of marketing the system), but they still made a lot of money on patents: pretty much all audio data compression methods that exist today are based on inventions done by Philips for DCC.
Not MD killed the format, it was the analog CC. Only a few people cared about sound quality. Price and easy to handle are more important. In the 90's there was a cassette deck in every house.
@@JacGoudsmit I have always felt that they got the backwards compatibility the wrong way around. Given that just about every car came with a normal cassette deck what was needed was a cassette that would play in a normal cassette deck but give better quality sound in your home Hi-Fi. Hi-Fi VHS does exactly that trick.
@@MrDuncl They should have started with a portable recorder like Sony did with their MiniDisc. The DCC museum has a prototype portable that was never released; the one that's often shown in pages and ads with the "Pretty Woman" soundtrack in it. They should have finished developing that.
Because the first DCC recorder couldn't record analog cassettes, it would have been necessary for early adopters to make extra space in their audio system because DCC didn't fully replace their old cassette deck.
Also the promise of editing song titles didn't get realized until 2 years after the format first came out, and then that feature was incompatible with the first recorders.
DCC-text was a feature that Philips forced on prerecorded cassette manufacturers but never took off.
Philips made a lot of mistakes with DCC and of course there was no way that it would outlast disc based formats such as MiniDisc and CD-R / CD-RW.
I have that deck at the moment - and it plays digital tapes fine (now I'm nervous and might have to check inside it).
I fortunately read about the bad capacitors of the DCC900 before I bought one. Bought a DCC91 here in Germany instead, it's been part of a shelf hifi system. Installed new belts and it plays fine.
That's a later generation DCC, which didn't have the bad caps in it.
As cheesy as it may sound: it's all about the journey. You're very gifted and this video was a great watch. 👍
Sent it to Denmark and will try to fix it for you, I think I can do the job, the job on the pcb from dcc museum was pretty bad, sorry for saying it.
And of course I will do it for free 😎
It's never a failed project if you learned a lot in the end.
This is what Techmoan has as nightmares
Never mind that it din't work the way you wanted...Still, at least you had an opportunity to gain lot's of experience and that may (and eventualy will) help you in future projects.
You can still use it as a dac. connect cd/tv or other digital source to optical or spdif in, press record and you will have a great warm sound on analog out.
"Turns out the balance potentiometer was set all to the right. Works fine now." I kid. :) Interesting video.
I would LOVE to take a crack at this. I listened to your video while working and took a peak in now and again so it's likely I've missed some of your troubleshooting nuances, but from a skim over the service manual it doesn't appear as though you can safely say the whole problem comes from the Read/Write board. There could be issues with the Digital board too. Things I would want to see, since you have the analog part partially working starting with that, is if you put in a tape with a standard 1 kHz 0 dBu sine wave on left and right channels at the same level, what do the analog outputs look like on the oscilloscope at the output of the Read/Write board? If they are uneven there, then yes there is a problem with the Read/Write board. However consider the feedback circuitry as potentially being faulty on either channel as well - there could be too much feedback on the right channel or too little feedback on the left. If you have a consistent signal on the left and right channel you can continuously follow said signal from the input side of the board all the way to the output and try to find the point where the signals vary. I know I'm optimistically fresh at this but I hope you don't give up just yet! Next time you pick up the project go all in for a deep tracing session!
Dont give up, I have seen other smd caps go bad also and not just the electrolythics, the other ones get conductive or completly shorted. Also, the smd resistors that came in contact with capacitor acid do not have the same resistance anymore. Test everything again.
I wonder if it could be a bad solder joint or a missing trace somewhere, I would go over that R/W board with a mutimeter and test all the connections.
Real shame you couldn't get one of them working but a great video!
I would double check all the capacitor values. There could’ve been a difference between the originals and the pack that came with the second unit. I’d also triple check the power supply voltages. It’s possible you have some caps that are bad inside the power supply, and even just a small variation could be causing something odd. It’s worth some measurement with the voltmeter.
Man, I feel your pain. I have a Technics RS-DC8, the second gen. deck and it also doesn't work. Bought it as a project as owner stated someone tried to demagnetize the head and ruined it by doing so ( dcc heads do not get demagnetized )! But by the time i have received it ( from Slovakia ) it got damaged more in transit and the new head i was going to buy got sold so never got a chance to repair it. It also intermittently refuse to respond to open/close button. As great this novelty is as much headache it gives you :(
Thanks for your vid. It was very informative.
Good luck with getting a working deck. The one I got had good PCBs but the head and loading system were bad. (Due to the original seller’s less than stellar packing) anyway Ralf is taking care of it. And yes this is a thing you have to be really committed to putting money in if you especially if you buy a 1st Gen deck. Hopefully mine will be working in a few weeks.
And now it’s working! The head on mine was bad and the tray was too damaged to fixed. So I shelled out the dough to replace those parts and Voilà! My deck is back in business after probably 25 years of sitting around! The only downside (and this seems to apply to DAT) is drops outs in the audio with certain tapes that are now almost 30 years old.
The more you dig, the deeper you get. But every shovel full you'll gain experience and hopefully gold.
I understand those old units have larger and thicker gold contacts. MAYBE???
hey, nice video and attempt. SMD tech is always a pain.
Consumers didn't bite on DCC, they already knew what happens to any kind of tape over time or when you leave it in a hot car. CDs looked like they would hold up better so that's what music buyers decided to get. For pro use and for consumers who wanted a reel-to-reel replacement DAT was the format that had better adoption and most brands of gear also went with DAT. Shortly after that CD-R came along that could do both Audio and Data, game over for tape. VHS HiFi was analog but my favorite reel-to-reel replacement because of how many hours you could get on it and the "tone". Some of the JVC VHS HiFi units solved the head switching noise issue and really sounded fantastic. The only place I remember seeing DCC was at Radio Shack, they had a gift for picking every loser possible, maybe that's why there is no more Radio Shack.
11:46 - Definitely a big mood for when a project isn't going well there.
This Does Not Repair must be the new name of this channel. lol.
Certainly starting to feel that way!
Sorry to hear you did not have any luck with your DCC deck (I am feeling blessed with the impulse purchase of my own 951 without any knowledge on the generations or travails of issues) Thank you for the video; pretty sure a lot of DCC aficionados will find it useful in opening up the deck and locating stuff for cleaning and repair! Who cleaned up the first board? (Looks like somebody took a chisel to it)
Anyone else sitting here considering the fact that new PCBs could be made with the information in that service manual? The ICs on there didn't look like they would be too terrible to remove and with OSH Park getting some made wouldn't be too costly either. It could also potentially help the DCC community too. Either way, loved the video, even if it was not successful it was a solid watch. I hope you have some better luck getting them back up and running.
We're considering making replacement circuit boards at the DCC Museum.
@@JacGoudsmit Sick! If you can't find anyone readily available to solder parts for a test board, let me know. While it is more of a hobby for me, I've done quite a few projects where precise soldering is required and I do not mind giving it a go. (the most recent would be the GBA consolizer and soldering to Veias ((unsure the spelling)) and test points) Though, I'm almost certain you could get someone like Voultar to chime in and give it a go.
Hi Colin and that's a great video which this particular amateur twiddler enjoyed. However, I now consider that my Philips DCC 730 ( which I have owned from new) will now just remain as my standby analogue cassette player - for as long as it remains working 😔🥴☹️.
It's a bummer you couldn't play that Cathy Dennis DCC...
I guess you could say that, when it came to getting this deck to work, there were just... Too Many Walls. 🕶
Retro format are good. Only time can stop us.=)
Both units are recoverable....but having patience is the keyword :)
The left-right thing reminds me of my old ISA Yamaha sound card I bought for my first PC... The sound was actually pretty good, except one of the channels was very silent so I had to move the balance slider in the win 95 all the way to one side.
After about 3 years of this setup I finally got annoyed (thought the card was damaged since the beginning) and bought a new sound card, the Creative AWE 64. When switching the cards, I noticed a strange jumpers setup on the old Yamaha (that I didn't ever notice before). And sure enough, after setting the jumpers properly the card worked totally fine, having a great balanced sound 😎. But as I already had the much better (and also much more expensive) AWE 64 I still decommissioned the Yamaha and didn't have any use of it since. What a shame 🙄
Wow they really did a number on that first board you sent away for repair. From experience, older tech is much more robust when its all assembled. Parts that were meant to be internal weren't designed or manufactured to stand up on their own when they were new, let alone years old :( the extra size and weight for shipping is a pain but broken parts are even worse :(
For trace and surface mount issues I normal use a fibreglass pen as this allows you to gently remove the lacquer and printing and expose the substrate, from there you can sometimes replace the traces with conductors and try to keep it as neat as possible. Its ugly but it can sometimes revive a dead part with no replacements available :)
Just found one of these today at my local swap meet for $20 in cosmetically new condition, (Recognized it as the same from your video actually,) And sure enough it plays tapes, but the audio's quiet, and only out of one ear. Here's to hoping it has any life left 🤞