Excellent video and creative solution. Just purchased my first lathe (TV48) and learing what I can before I go too far and have to pay for my education by replacing parts I damage.
Thats a great idea , I am going to do that to mine now , that rotating knob is just impossible to use pulling it in and out using fingers just results in slipping off all the time , I have also fitted mine with electric feed using a parvalux motor with worm drive gearbox on the tailstock end of the leadscrew , can still screwcut just need to remove motor timing drive belt only takes a few seconds , my leadscrew is now mounted in self aligning ballraces as the original plain bearings were rubbish my lathe is now driven with a one and half HP 3 phase motor and VFD I managed to get a new damaged motor for half price ( dented fan housing ) easy fix , total cost including VFD £ 180 well worth it, I wouldn't have done it to a plain bearing headstock lathe but mine runs in Timken taper rollers , well done for your excellent design keep up the good work I now have another upgrade to do
Nice! Your modifications make me think of custom car guys and gunsmiths who sporterize old military weapons, two fields that hold no interest for me now. This, however, is interesting and I look forward to seeing your other videos. Thank you.
I just inherited my grandfather's old Atlas lathe. Not sure which model it is, but based on memories I think it's 10" series. I'll find out Sunday when I pick it up from my dad's house. My dad says it also has a full suite of tools. Man this thing is going to bring back some memories
Very nice! Measure from the very center of the chuck spindle to the ways (bed). If it is 5" or a bit more than it is a "10 series" lathe. Get it working and make something cool. It is a great feeling!
@@FredMiller apparently it's fully functional. My dad has used it a few times, but recently got a 4 axis mill/lathe setup, and needs the space. So alas, I have a lathe. Lol But I do remember days, many decades ago, spending hours watching my grandfather machine stuff on this thing, and "helping" him out.
Hi Fred, I just came across your video on the Altas, I have the same TH54 that I purchased at an estate sale. The lathe is a little (lot) tired but it is on my list to restore and update. I like your mod and plan to do something similar. When I get ready to do a resto-mod to the lathe I'll be referring to your channel. Thanks for sharing. P.s. I added you to my subs page.
I am glad it helped you. When I found mine it was tired as well but restored really nicely. This is the 3rd Atlas lathe I have restored. Ebay is a great resource for parts and CZcams a good resource for "how to". I also have a model 618 (6" lathe) for very small steam engine work. Thanks again for watching and good luck with your restoration.
I purchased the lathe almost a year ago and I keep it by the door so every time I enter the shop I'm reminded that it's still waiting. I have a smaller lathe and bench mill that I use but the long bed of the Atlas will come in handy for some special jobs. I've started rehabbing my shop getting it ready for some serious fab work this spring and hopefully interesting videos other than home projects. Tag along if you would like to see how it evolves. By the way, that's a sweet MGA, I had a B in college and currently 49 MGTD in boxes that I'll be doing a resto-mod once the shop is ready. Later Walt P.s. I post updates and previews on Instagram @ southernengineering
Just wanted to mention these lathes were designed for use with the original short chucks. Some operations like parting work better with the original chucks because they are more rigid. That is to say the shorter lever arm flexes the spindle less. Thanks for the video
Harold you are absolutely correct about the short chucks. The mass of the chuck on this lathe works well to overcome vibrations when parting. Thanks for watching.
I have the same lathe and it came with the original owner's manual . A 10 inch four jaw chuck is listed as an optional accessory for $30 An 8 inch four jaw chuck is $25 , and the 6 inch geared scroll chuck is $40
Thanks Pierre. In the winter I spend a lot of time in my shop. Your channel is looking great, and oh, keep Phillip on the straight and narrow. LOL Fred
That is great to hear Jason. It always pleases me when someone gives me feedback or in your case actually made the project. Good luck with the power feed project.
54 inch Atlas that is a long one, you have the turret on yours? We are new to your channel and subscribed thank you for sharing your machine. Nice lead screw modification will machine nice smooth steady finishes like that feature a lot. You have really added a lot even that cool depth of cut tail stock controlled measurement nice. Now lets stop typing and learn what is going to become of the cross slide feed. Your channel is a joy to watch wonder why I just found. nice no more reaching under flustering to grab that little pull push knob you can now just grab the handle you made. Lance & Patrick.
Very nice, I have a th54 that does not have the quick change box, I put the electronic lead screw on mine from Clough42. I also added a hand wheel from a milling machine with 200 graduations giving direct diameter reading on the cross slide , I Will definitely be copying your great addition, 😊
Chuck I would be interested in seeing some pictures of the install of the Clough42 lead screw. I am in the process of putting one together on my Atlas 618 and I just bought an Atlas TH54 Saturday and after the clean up and painting I will be putting a Clough42 upgrade on it.
Thanks Vince.. I was fortunate to find one (my third 10F) that was very lightly used and is still really tight. I restored the other 2 and flipped them to a couple of young fellas that are now turning out projects left and right. It is really satisfying to see younger folks taking to manual machining.
Fred job well done! I just purchased an Atlas TH54 Saturday and this looks like an upgrade I would like to do to my new to me lathe. By chance would you have a drawing for the cross slide lever? Thank Bob
Is there anyway that you could provide a wiring schematic of how you connected the drum switch up. I am at wits end trying to find the information on how to wire up my motor. I have a Leeson 1/2 hp single phase 110vac motor that has seven leads and a new Dayton drum switch.
Hello Fred, I am very interested in the modifications you have made. I like your leadscrew drive, and cross slide modifications. Like the tool post modification as well. I am no machinist, but I make parts for old Harleys. Would it be possible to share email so I can correspond with you Really want to upgrade my 10F. I have so many questions lol
After doing some research, you are absolutely correct. Until you brought this to my attention, I did not even know a "QC" series existed. Thank you for the correction.
I built a motor controller from a high quality windshield wiper motor. I drive it from the tail end of the drive screw. I hopefully will be able to make a video on the unit in the future. Stay tuned. Thanks Fred
I was concerned about that too. I check it out about once per month and so far no issues. I like that chuck because the bore is so big I can insert a 5C collet holder with no problem. Thanks for watching...
@@FredMiller Can you tell me exactly what brand and model chuck you have. I have an Atlas QC54 10" lathe that I got from my father who had it since the 1950's. I an looking for a new accurate 3 jaw chuck. Based on your experience. What would you choose. Thank!
After a many week search on Ebay I was lucky enough to find a PUUm-S 8 - 8 1/2 ZD chuck. PUUm chucks are made in Poland and are a very well made unit. If I had not found this chuck I would have opted for a 3 jawed backplate adjustable "Buck" chuck. It is possible to dial out almost all the run out with this unit. If you have no chuck for the lathe now I would opt for a 4 jaw since a 4 jaw can perform almost all functions of a 3 jaw plus all run out can be dialed out. A 4 jaw can also perform many more functions that a 3 jaw. There are many CZcams videos on this subject that are well worth the views. Best of luck and do let me know what you come up with and how you like it. Fred
@@FredMiller With your 8-1/2 chuck... when the jaws are fully extended do they hit? If you do not mind me asking, what did you have to pay for your chuck ? If I cannot find a PUUm-s chuck, what model Buck chuck do your recommend? I have a nice 4 jaw chuck and original 3 jaw chuck. One of the jaw on the 3 jaw was damaged by me (on the clamping surface) when I was about 15 years old (about 34 years ago) and the accuracy has suffered. I would like to find a nice new 3 jaw chuck. Could you also recommend a good dial (or digital) indicator. I want a setup that works well for centering parts in the 4 jaw chuck but there are so many choices and it is hard to pick a price point. Thank you.
Always swing the chuck by hand after loading a work piece to see if everything will clear. The faces of the 3 jaws of this chuck are reversible. So they can be configured in two different ways to accommodate the job holding. I think I paid around $225 on Ebay. Since I do not know a lot about Buck chucks I would call a distributer and tell them what you are looking for and what lathe you will be mounting it on. I am sure they will help you out. As far an indicator goes they are available on Ebay at very reasonable process. You will also need some sort of base (probably magnetic) to hold the indicator. They are also available reasonably on Ebay. I would ask around your neighborhood to see if there is a hobby machinist that you can go visit. Most of us are very receptive to having visitors and sharing knowledge. Best of luck on you searches.
Excellent video and creative solution. Just purchased my first lathe (TV48) and learing what I can before I go too far and have to pay for my education by replacing parts I damage.
That’s a really nice upgrade. You did a great job making it and also Engineering the design for its purpose. Great Job.
Thats a great idea , I am going to do that to mine now , that rotating knob is just impossible to use pulling it in and out using fingers just results in slipping off all the time , I have also fitted mine with electric feed using a parvalux motor with worm drive gearbox on the tailstock end of the leadscrew , can still screwcut just need to remove motor timing drive belt only takes a few seconds , my leadscrew is now mounted in self aligning ballraces as the original plain bearings were rubbish my lathe is now driven with a one and half HP 3 phase motor and VFD I managed to get a new damaged motor for half price ( dented fan housing ) easy fix , total cost including VFD £ 180 well worth it, I wouldn't have done it to a plain bearing headstock lathe but mine runs in Timken taper rollers , well done for your excellent design keep up the good work I now have another upgrade to do
And here I thought I was done modifying my Atlas… nice job, it’s officially on my list
Let me know how it works out for you!
@@FredMiller will do. Thanks!
Nice! Your modifications make me think of custom car guys and gunsmiths who sporterize old military weapons, two fields that hold no interest for me now. This, however, is interesting and I look forward to seeing your other videos. Thank you.
I just inherited my grandfather's old Atlas lathe. Not sure which model it is, but based on memories I think it's 10" series. I'll find out Sunday when I pick it up from my dad's house. My dad says it also has a full suite of tools. Man this thing is going to bring back some memories
Very nice! Measure from the very center of the chuck spindle to the ways (bed). If it is 5" or a bit more than it is a "10 series" lathe. Get it working and make something cool. It is a great feeling!
@@FredMiller apparently it's fully functional. My dad has used it a few times, but recently got a 4 axis mill/lathe setup, and needs the space. So alas, I have a lathe. Lol
But I do remember days, many decades ago, spending hours watching my grandfather machine stuff on this thing, and "helping" him out.
Very clever, Fred. My South Bend has a different scheme, but having a lever like that is really attractive.
I like that. Will put it on my list of projects to do since I have that same lathe ( without the quick change gear box ). Thanks a lot for sharing.
Hi Fred, I just came across your video on the Altas, I have the same TH54 that I purchased at an estate sale. The lathe is a little (lot) tired but it is on my list to restore and update. I like your mod and plan to do something similar.
When I get ready to do a resto-mod to the lathe I'll be referring to your channel.
Thanks for sharing.
P.s. I added you to my subs page.
I am glad it helped you. When I found mine it was tired as well but restored really nicely. This is the 3rd Atlas lathe I have restored. Ebay is a great resource for parts and CZcams a good resource for "how to". I also have a model 618 (6" lathe) for very small steam engine work. Thanks again for watching and good luck with your restoration.
I purchased the lathe almost a year ago and I keep it by the door so every time I enter the shop I'm reminded that it's still waiting. I have a smaller lathe and bench mill that I use but the long bed of the Atlas will come in handy for some special jobs.
I've started rehabbing my shop getting it ready for some serious fab work this spring and hopefully interesting videos other than home projects. Tag along if you would like to see how it evolves.
By the way, that's a sweet MGA, I had a B in college and currently 49 MGTD in boxes that I'll be doing a resto-mod once the shop is ready.
Later
Walt
P.s. I post updates and previews on Instagram @ southernengineering
Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice work
Just wanted to mention these lathes were designed for use with the original short chucks. Some operations like parting work better with the original chucks because they are more rigid. That is to say the shorter lever arm flexes the spindle less. Thanks for the video
Harold you are absolutely correct about the short chucks. The mass of the chuck on this lathe works well to overcome vibrations when parting. Thanks for watching.
I have the same lathe and it came with the original owner's manual . A 10 inch four jaw chuck is listed as an optional accessory for $30 An 8 inch four jaw chuck is $25 , and the 6 inch geared scroll chuck is $40
@@teakkaye5364 Thanks for the info... Those were the days! LOL
Can crusher, angel light, mod on your Atlas, you're really getting back to work and being present on the Tube...
Nice projects... ;)
Thanks Pierre. In the winter I spend a lot of time in my shop. Your channel is looking great, and oh, keep Phillip on the straight and narrow. LOL Fred
Thanks for the video, just fitted it to mine works perfectly. Power feed next.
That is great to hear Jason. It always pleases me when someone gives me feedback or in your case actually made the project. Good luck with the power feed project.
54 inch Atlas that is a long one, you have the turret on yours? We are new to your channel and subscribed thank you for sharing your machine. Nice lead screw modification will machine nice smooth steady finishes like that feature a lot. You have really added a lot even that cool depth of cut tail stock controlled measurement nice. Now lets stop typing and learn what is going to become of the cross slide feed. Your channel is a joy to watch wonder why I just found. nice no more reaching under flustering to grab that little pull push knob you can now just grab the handle you made. Lance & Patrick.
Thank you fellas! I am pleased to see you got some tips from my channel.. Regards.. Fred
Very nice, I have a th54 that does not have the quick change box, I put the electronic lead screw on mine from Clough42.
I also added a hand wheel from a milling machine with 200 graduations giving direct diameter reading on the cross slide , I Will definitely be copying your great addition, 😊
Thank you for the nice comment and good luck with your build.
Chuck I would be interested in seeing some pictures of the install of the Clough42 lead screw. I am in the process of putting one together on my Atlas 618 and I just bought an Atlas TH54 Saturday and after the clean up and painting I will be putting a Clough42 upgrade on it.
@@bobkarstien1248 Bob I keep trying to send you my email address but CZcams evidently keeps blocking my reply to your comment.
Very nice
Nice lathe Fred and good mod
Thanks Vince.. I was fortunate to find one (my third 10F) that was very lightly used and is still really tight. I restored the other 2 and flipped them to a couple of young fellas that are now turning out projects left and right. It is really satisfying to see younger folks taking to manual machining.
Fred job well done! I just purchased an Atlas TH54 Saturday and this looks like an upgrade I would like to do to my new to me lathe. By chance would you have a drawing for the cross slide lever? Thank Bob
might also consider making a holder for crosslide for drill...so you have power feed ...chraftsmann and clausing lathes share many of same parts
You read my mind Miguel. I am in the process of designing one now. Video when and if successful. Regards- Fred
Awesome build
Is there anyway that you could provide a wiring schematic of how you connected the drum switch up. I am at wits end trying to find the information on how to wire up my motor. I have a Leeson 1/2 hp single phase 110vac motor that has seven leads and a new Dayton drum switch.
nice setup
Thanks Bill. It was an improvement that needed doing for sure.
Hello Fred, I am very interested in the modifications you have made. I like your leadscrew drive, and cross slide modifications. Like the tool post modification as well. I am no machinist, but I make parts for old Harleys. Would it be possible to share email so I can correspond with you Really want to upgrade my 10F. I have so many questions lol
Whre did you get your tool post? IS there a way to make the cross slide stronger i get chatter in mine, is there an off the shelf upgrade?
Nicely done, do you not catch your hand on the apron hand wheel handle now though?
The lever is actually easier to operate than the knob. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice mod!
Is that a TH-54 upgraded, or a stock QC-54?
After doing some research, you are absolutely correct. Until you brought this to my attention, I did not even know a "QC" series existed. Thank you for the correction.
@@FredMiller Thanks for the reply. I just picked up a QC-42. Here's some video:czcams.com/video/pbdlro6pHac/video.html
Do you have a video on the powered lead screw assembly?
What did you use for lead screw motot
I built a motor controller from a high quality windshield wiper motor. I drive it from the tail end of the drive screw. I hopefully will be able to make a video on the unit in the future. Stay tuned. Thanks Fred
Maybe should have put in a grease zert just for show? Lol
The thought did cross my mind! : )
This is the next upgrade I'm going to do to my Atlas. Do you have a video on the powered lead screw assembly?
Not as of yet Bob. I will work on making one during the next rainy day. Thanks for watching. Fred
Wanna make another power lead screw?😂 Id buy one.
you could sell them as add on kits
Big chuck, How are the bearings holding up?
I was concerned about that too. I check it out about once per month and so far no issues. I like that chuck because the bore is so big I can insert a 5C collet holder with no problem. Thanks for watching...
@@FredMiller Can you tell me exactly what brand and model chuck you have. I have an Atlas QC54 10" lathe that I got from my father who had it since the 1950's. I an looking for a new accurate 3 jaw chuck. Based on your experience. What would you choose. Thank!
After a many week search on Ebay I was lucky enough to find a PUUm-S 8 - 8 1/2 ZD chuck. PUUm chucks are made in Poland and are a very well made unit. If I had not found this chuck I would have opted for a 3 jawed backplate adjustable "Buck" chuck. It is possible to dial out almost all the run out with this unit. If you have no chuck for the lathe now I would opt for a 4 jaw since a 4 jaw can perform almost all functions of a 3 jaw plus all run out can be dialed out. A 4 jaw can also perform many more functions that a 3 jaw. There are many CZcams videos on this subject that are well worth the views. Best of luck and do let me know what you come up with and how you like it. Fred
@@FredMiller With your 8-1/2 chuck... when the jaws are fully extended do they hit? If you do not mind me asking, what did you have to pay for your chuck ? If I cannot find a PUUm-s chuck, what model Buck chuck do your recommend? I have a nice 4 jaw chuck and original 3 jaw chuck. One of the jaw on the 3 jaw was damaged by me (on the clamping surface) when I was about 15 years old (about 34 years ago) and the accuracy has suffered. I would like to find a nice new 3 jaw chuck. Could you also recommend a good dial (or digital) indicator. I want a setup that works well for centering parts in the 4 jaw chuck but there are so many choices and it is hard to pick a price point.
Thank you.
Always swing the chuck by hand after loading a work piece to see if everything will clear. The faces of the 3 jaws of this chuck are reversible. So they can be configured in two different ways to accommodate the job holding. I think I paid around $225 on Ebay. Since I do not know a lot about Buck chucks I would call a distributer and tell them what you are looking for and what lathe you will be mounting it on. I am sure they will help you out. As far an indicator goes they are available on Ebay at very reasonable process. You will also need some sort of base (probably magnetic) to hold the indicator. They are also available reasonably on Ebay. I would ask around your neighborhood to see if there is a hobby machinist that you can go visit. Most of us are very receptive to having visitors and sharing knowledge. Best of luck on you searches.
very nice