Glen-L Squirt Build Tour and Test Run & Launch
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Building a small 11 ft. runabout from a set of DIY plans from the 1950's, the Glen-L "Squirt." This boat took about 16 months to build, primarily weekends, and most of it during COVID-19. The boat is built from white oak, marine plywood, and Sapele trim planks. Everything is epoxied, and epoxy was used in lieu of fiberglass polyester resin. A boiler and (new) gas can was used with an aluminum dryer vent hose to steam the sheers and chines. I also found a pair of Johnson 18hp motors (1958 and 1961) locally and completely rebuilt the 1958 from the ground up.
I also have other videos of the build on my channel:
Wood veneer "planking" with vacuum bagging:
• Vacuum Bagging Wood Ve...
Disassembly of the 1958 and 1960 Johnson 18 hp vintage motors:
• 1958 & 1961 Johnson 18...
Johnson 18 hp magneto system:
• Johnson 2-Stroke Magne...
Absolutely beautiful, you don't see craftsmanship like that today.
Such a clean build. Job well done.
We took ours out for the first time yesterday on Port Phillip Bay and we did over 50 km. Top speed was 42kmh with 2 adults, fuel and supplies. What a blast. Very stable for an 11 foot boat. Very solid also. What a ripper!!!
Seeing that takes me back……Beautiful build.
Man you did such a nice job with this. Im gonna attempt to start building the Zip in Spring 2023.
What a fantastic boat Bill!
They both looks so great! Excellent job!
Amazing Billy! Well done
Superb craftsmanship.
Very interesting compilation. It’s great to see what you made. Definitely a winner 👍
Absolutely spectacular looking build!! While I'm certain it was a lot of work, I'm also guessing it was fun to accomplish the project! Remarkable job and clearly, fun to get the bottom wet on a body of water. Woo Hoo!!!
It's gorgeous!
Beautiful build and the perfect build video.
Looks absolutely beautiful, man!
Well done my man beautiful job
Absolutely amazing! 🤩
LOOKS GREAT👍👍👍👍👍👍
Awesome job man That boat looks sweet
Nice build, you should be very proud!
Jim, design cues for my build were largely inspired by yours. I wouldn't have imagined on my own many if the details that I used, which came from your build videos. So, THANKS!
Beautiful
busy building a 1/4 scale PM-38. I;d be pleased if it came out half as well.
Very nice. Well done!
Very nice
Can I just salute you for a wonderful craftsman's...no, artisan's work. Simply brilliant.
Have you got a video of you and the squirt out on the briney?
Someone asked where the stainless rub rail came from, but the comment may have been deleted. To answer, it was ordered directly from Taco Marine: Part Number: S11-4511P12, 304 Stainless Steel Hollow Back Rub Rail, 3/4”W x 12’L. Cost was $60 per 12' piece but was $250 to ship because of its length. I ordered four pieces, which gave me enough to do each side in one piece, the left and right edges of the transom, and two five-foot splash rails, which weren't yet on the boat at the time of this video. For corners, I carved pieces from 3/4" rubber hose and tucked them under the square end of the stainless. The ends of the stainless were hammered round, filed and polished to provide a smooth end.
Great job !!! I just started building a 14" Riva replica, and your vidéo gives me a view of what's left to do :-)... Where did you find the metal supports for the windshield ? Thanks ! Didier (France)
Is that a long shaft engine on a 15 inch transom? Maybe it's just the camera angle, but it looks like a lot of shaft below the hull.
Great job looks beautiful sounds healthy Glen L plans are fantastic that boat and motor is sweet! Good Luck how ironic you posted this after my comment,LOLL Happy New Years.Oh where did you get the Holiday Bronze & white paint from North York Marine in Canada or did you have it mixed up? Very Nice ..Glenn
The paint is automotive urethane from the local paint supply. Metacryl actually had colors from their in-house palette that were really close. I forget the name of the bronze, but the ivory is Wimbledon White.
Beautiful build. Did you do anything special to reinforce for the bigger engine? I see the plans recommend up to a 10hp.
I think the 18 weighs 60 pounds and the thrust isn't crazy strong. Per plans, the transom is single 3/4" ply with a doubler plate at the motor well, and a 2x 3/4 ply knee tied to the keel. It's pretty stout.
But wait does it purr?
Hi Bill. Your finished project looks great. Can you tell me what type of pump you used and how many CFM? Also, did you finish the epoxy with any type of UV inhibitor or UV varnish?
The pump for vacuum bagging? I have another video just on that. It's a used medical pump that I bought on eBay for $50 and then rigged up the vavles and switch. And, yes, the epoxy was wet sanded and top coated with an automotive 2-stage clear coat. Because the boat doesn't sit in the water full time, it will last just fine!
@@billthomassie6118 Great to hear back. I found the video on the bagging. That is a great help. I actually received my used ebay $50 pump today and have ordered up the other bagging supplies. I'll experiment first on some of the removable aft deck splash panels to get the hand of it. If that goes well, then I will try doing some laminating over some of the fiberglass cabin sides. For now, I will stay away from the waterline. Cheers!
@Eric Schulz The hardest part is not the bagging process but controlling and managing the glue/epoxy/adhesive to keep it from sealing the pores of the surface you want to stain. It will come out blotchy if you're not careful about cleaning that up while it's cleanable, before it cures.
@@billthomassie6118 Hi Bill. That is great input (and I'm looking for all I can get). I saw your care in cleaning up the resin before it fully solidified. I'm thinking I will use a clear resin (I have West system clear) and am not staining the veneer. I am going to use some teak in one area and some walnut in another if all goes according to (the developing) plan. I've been playing around with laminating some small strips to see how it looks and performs. I'm thinking of a couple of clear coats of epoxy over the veneer, then finish with a UV stabilized urethane or varnish. This would be comparable to what West systems suggests for exterior teak handrails and trim for a longer term finish than just varnish.
How would one go about adding them so called "Splash Rails" I'm new to all of what boats are in the manner of terms. Any way to show a picture ? To this existing model that is.
The splash rails were added a couple of months ago. I used solid 1" white oak that I had left over. I made them 2" wide x 5' long with a rounded taper at the front. I set them just above the painted stripe, which is about 4" above the bottom of the hull. I used more of the 3/4" stainless trim to cap the sides, which also hid the screws that fastened the rails to the hull ribs. For added security, I put one screw at the forward edge from the inside of the hull. The others couldn't be reached from the inside because they were added after the foam flotation was put in, which blocked access. The hardest part is shaping the edge of the rail that has to mate to the contoured curves of the hull. It took a lot of sanding and fine tuning to match.
Bill, do you have a build thread on the Glen-L forum? How did you attach the cover boards, Vacuum bag like the sides? What did you use to fill the seams white on the deck. Thanks Doug
No blog, but I documented everything through photos. The deck is an underlayment of 1/4" marine ply, epoxied and nailed. I epoxied the overlayment perimeter boards using clamps and ratchet straps. The outer edges were wild and I planed them to the edge after it cured. The 1/4" Sapele was epoxied and temporarily anchored to the deck using scraps as clips fastened with drywall screws where the ivory infill would go. The infill is a the same epoxy with fiber filler, tinted slightly with acrylic enamel, umber and white.
Look at the pics between 4:20 and 4:40.
@@billthomassie6118 Thanks, again great job. You should be very proud of that boat!
Have you got a name yet?
We did! "Classical Gas"
Beautiful