VW T4 Power Steering Belt Change - Volkswagen Transporter
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- VW T4 Power Steering Belt Change - Volkswagen Transporter 1.9 Turbo Diesel ABL
There are seven spacers/shims in total, two can be seen on the outside of the pulley under the bolts, and there are five inside. When fitting the new belt, I left the two spacers on the outside as when I placed them inside the pulley, the belt was too slack. When the belt wears and stretches the spacers/shims are removed, this will re-tension the belt as the two halves of the pulley are pushed closer together. This pushes the belt out, causing it to tighten.
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Dude this is exactly what I needed. Really ecellent video. I can't work out how loosening the three bolts releases the tension on the belt, but anyway, I'm sure it'll become clear as I do it. Many thanks for taking the time to make the film.
Absolutely superb video, just what I was looking for. Many thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Very clear and massively helpful 👍
This video helped me a lot ❤ thanks 🙏🏻
Glad it helped!
Good vidéo friend tanks
Just what i needed fella, the bloody thing decided it didn't like its Aux/Serp belt anymore and wanted to shit it all down the road. Come replace and realised i need to remove this belt before hand, Haynes manual was no use, so this has cleared it up. If only i didn't lose my 3/8 allen key a few months ago :(
Happy to hear you got it sorted, thanks for watching.
Brilliant. Really helpful. What size in the belt? I need to get one ordered
Thanks for watching.
I am back using a Contitech belt for the power steering. I found certain compounds can be noisy. Also, not all makes are exactly the same design, and they can sit slightly differently within the pulley.
Here is the belt that is on the van at the moment.
"ContiTech V-Belt, Vee Belt, Auxiliary, Drive - Pt No: AVX10X650 - OE Quality"
That is the search term on eBay U.K. The belt size is 10x650. That is for the ABL engine code. It may not be the same for other models.
Thanks...very helpful
Thanks, very helpful!
Great vid but how do you get the belt tight. Cheers
5:08 Brass spacer rings are used to set the correct tension.
To add tension, remove spacers from the centre between the two pulley halves.
If your belt has been adjusted previously due to wear (spacers are removed), you will need to add some spacers until the correct tension is achieved. It may be that you simply need to change the belt and not change the amount of spacers.
Unused spacers are stored on the outside of the outer pulley.
@@T4TipsGuides cheers thats great thank you
@@goonluvNo worries. Hope it helps.
How did you tight the belt?
What did you use prior to the video to loosen them? Mine are SUPER tight.
Just brute force and a lot of grunting. I used grey pipe insulation foam on the allen keys to make it easier to push on, this allowed a bit more force to be used.
Good video. HOWEVER, I still have a question. How do you loosen/ tigthen the belt when you replace it for a new one? I am about to change the pump itself in a friends van and I was wondering which is the mechanism for loosening the belt before replacing the pump and tightening it afterwards.
Is the pulley just two halves and depending on how tight both halves are... you get more or less diameter on the pulley therefore tightening or loosening the belt???
The halves of the pulley form a V when put together, the shims are used to adjust the tension of the belt. Less shims = more tension on the belt as the two sides of the pulley are closer together forcing the belt outwards. You tighten the three bolts up to secure the two halves in place. When you take it apart you will see there are shims on the outside and shims on the inside of the two halves of the pulley. Hope that helps, if in doubt take it to a garage.
Is it just a case of loosening that alternator nut at the bottom for replacing the belt mine squeals like a pig think it's at the end of its self adjustment
Loosen the two bolts on the alternator and then push the alternator back to relieve the tension while removing the belt.
I put a length of rope through the towing eye so I have something to grab, hold the rope with one hand, using my foot to push the alternator back and spare hand to remove the belt from the water pump pulley first. This will give you more slack to then remove the belt from the alternator pulley.
Trying to remove the belt from the alternator pulley first, without sliding it off the water pump pulley, can result in pinched fingers. There is a lot of tension in the spring so be careful.
So taking away the spacers behind the 3 Allen key bolts adds tension to the belt?
Removing spacers that sit between the two halves of the pulley will tension the belt. The spacers that have been removed are stored on the outside of the outer pulley.
Long shot here what size belt did you fit .. as iv tried a new and it's still loose with all shims out
The size of the belt is AVX10 x 650 La. If you pause the video at 3:04 and look at the second belt from the left you can see the size printed on the packet. Hope you get it sorted
@@T4TipsGuides there to big for mine .. Ill need and 10mm shorter
Cheers helped a lot
Thanks.
My belt is still loose with all the shims removed?! Do I need a new belt?
Sounds like the wrong belt may have been fitted. I would give a new belt a try.
You need a proper van lift to make it easier!
Hi. I don't have the centre one only 3 on the out side. I've tried the impact but seems solid. Is the some sort of cap on the centre one?
What is the year and model of your T4?
Hi, My T4 as recently got a problem in that I can't trun the wheel when stationary, it makes a loud screeching noise and really hard to turn the wheels, but when driving it drives very well, do you think this is linked to the belt, I'm not very mechanical minded so am I best to get someone else to do it, if it is the belt your tutorial makes me feel I could do it myself,
I would take it to a garage, better to not risk creating a more serious problem. It will not cost a lot for the part (if it is the belt).
Hi, many thanks for thew reply, I did take it to my local mechanic and it was the belt, he did the MOT and Belt and only charged £60, a bargain, now running like a puppy again, given its done 225000 and is 20 years old its an amazing vehicle
Sounds like you have found a decent mechanic, happy you got it fixed.
where would I get one of those pully
BRICKWERKS have them in stock.
Do you move the spacers between the pump pulley? Need to change my belt but don't want to over pinch the new belt.
I have 5 spacers on the inside and 2 on the outside, I have been told this is how it left the factory, I just assumed mine fitted best with 2 on the outside due to wear inside the two halves of the pulley. let me know what works best on your van.
My belt had 6 and we went with 3 on either side. no noise no slipping, just perfect. Thanks
Mike Simmonds Glad to hear you got it sorted.
Sir , when i turn the steering wheel, I've noticed there is some wired sound is coming from the bonnet , the sound like something friction & steering wheel also seems get harder. What should I do?
If you are having trouble diagnosing the problem, please take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic.
Sometimes, we must realise our limitations, I take my van to the garage for certain jobs. I would rather hand over some money instead of putting the safety of myself and others at risk.
Hope you get it fixed and that it is nothing too serious.
I want to know the alternator belt size????
Ribbed V-belt 6 Ribs 923mm. Code: 6PK923.
That is for this specific van 1999 1.9TD, ABL engine code.
why does the belt have teeth and the pullies dont have teeth?
This is the best explanation I could find.
Cogged belts have slots that run perpendicular to the belt's length. The slots reduce the bending resistance of the belt. Cogged belts can be used with the same pulleys as equivalently rated V-belts. They run cooler, last longer, and have an efficiency that is about 2 percent higher than that of standard V-belts