2014 Toyota Rav4 long crank time
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Customer complaint: long crank time especially after warmed up.
Customer Note: fuel pump, catalytic converter, MAF sensor and one injector has already been replaced with little to no improvement.
Lets find out what the root cause is for the long crank time.
Fuel pressure spec 45-55 psi with less than 5 psi bleed off
Returnless fuel system so no regulator to check.
injector spec 12-16 ohms and less than 1 drip of fuel every ten minutes(not sure how you can measure that when it evaporates)
Great diagnosis. And well explained. As you mentioned they might wanna put some better fuel in it to prevent the new injectors from leaking again. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Thank you Chad. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
Thanks Billy. You do the same. 👍🏻
One of the best vids I seen on this.
I'm having the same issue in my 07 Rav 4 with a quick bleed down of fuel pressure and a high 02 reading at idle. 800mv.
So I'm thinking injectors as well. Thnx for the vid.
Great video. Awesome detail. I would change the injectors, spark plugs and oil. Then check my data. But you know what you're doing
The oil had just of hint of fuel to it. The mail company is supposed to have their maintenance tech change the oil.
Great video, Chad! I haven't ran across this issue (on a newer toyota) yet! Thanks for sharing!
It’s the first one I’ve seen also. My guess is the fuel quality but you never know. Maybe these injectors are sensitive to fuel quality issues.
What an interesting demonstration, thank you. If one injector leaks, pressure drops and boiling point falls. Then when fuel vaporizes inside the rail you get a vapor lock, reducing the flow of liquid to each injector. Presumably the absence of liquid fuel in the rail would make it more vulnerable to dramatic temperature swings inside the rail, perhaps damaging seals and adjacent injectors.
Finally someone that gets it. When I go to help other shops with problems like this they look at me like I'm crazy because "fuel injected vehicles do not vapor lock" or that s what they think anyways. Chrysler has had this problem ever since they made the move to returnless fuel system in the late 90's. Honda had this issue in Colorado and surrounding state with winter blend fuel and hot days. Honda requires an updated regulator that bumps the pressure by 10 psi and a new ECM.
I wonder if the fuel boiling and cavitation in the rail will cause additional damage over time. I suppose most owners will be so frustrated by the hard start condition they will repair the vehicle before other damage occurs.
Thanks again. Have a great weekend.
You guys are dead on a notch above the rest 👊🏻👊🏻
Just creeping on some of your old videos. Great diag here. I need a video on all your custom foster adapters. Lol
I like the couplers because it makes diag work fast. These test take lots of time when the equipment slows you down
Great video thanks for going back and recreating the whole thing for us enjoyed
Thanks for stopping by.
I really wanted to film it and as I was filming the diag the first time it just wasn’t working out (shop noise, interruptions, ect) so I had to hit the reset button and try again after hours.
One of the best diagnostics that I've come across, thanks for sharing this information. I'm having similar issues on a Toyota Yaris 2003, 1.5 VVT-i ,T Sport. A vehicle that's seen some nice days back in the days. Now it just about starts to save the day and like you said, not even sure if it will start half the time.
Very informative video. Your videos are very helpful. Just watched a Robert Dotterer video I believe you were in. Correct me if I’m wrong. Anyway you both have excellent channels stay safe and well Artie 👍
You are correct. Rob visited before our journey to the Vision training event last year. Thanks for coming by and checking out my channel.
Thanks, mate gonna test my Rav4 2004 for p0171 lean bank 1 I have changed A/F sensor Clean Maf its giving the code under load so I rules out the vaccum leak I am going to check the fuel system now the way you do it thanks a lot for info 👍
Great job Chad that was a good one. That must be some cheap ass gas for sure. Seems like that put a lot of miles on fast as well. Thanks for sharing buddy... Jay
The owner confirmed that they have their own fuel tank at headquarters that they use to fill the vehicles every morning. We told them to start running an additive or a different brand of fuel in this vehicle.
Interesting, the fact that there was a misfire and rich code makes it point toward injector issues
Very informative thankyou
Glad it was helpful!
0:49 - 0:55 ....those are some excellent listening skills you have **nods head in circular motion, with fake grin and crazy eyes** (wear your seatbelt)
I learned that from the office.
@@ThePracticalMechanic ill have to rewatch that episonde. i dont remember NOTHING from what you told me when you got home last night LOL
Check for debris or sediment in the tank and lines.
Toyota's with injector issues, never happens😉🤣🤣🤣🤣 scotty Kilmer says Toyota's never break
Lol. Scotty hasn’t met a rural mail route company on a tight budget.
TPM: Where do you draw the line on leakdown rate? e.g. One Toyota spec on returnless 2002 ECHO calls for 44-50psi pressure, then hold above 21psi for 5 min PASSES LEAKDOWN. JUST 5 MINUTES! What is YOUR rule of thumb?? VERY WELL ORGANIZED VIDEO 👍.
Is there a inline filter on that model. Good video thx for sharing 👍🏻
great video Chad im interested where you got your testing hoses ?. i have foster couplers because i use the WPS500 everywhere thanks
Many of my hoses came from a cheap amazon fuel test kit. I also made a few of my 5/16 and 3/8” quick coupler nipples. I need to order more foster couplers. I’m out of couplers that seal 100%.
You should keep the air filter on side
I have a 2009 with the same engine. Only when the engine is warm and if I let the car sit for 10 minutes and restart the car, the idle drops to 500 rpm for 1-2 seconds, runs rough, and then the idle smooths out? Any idea what could be causing this issue? I cleaned the MAF sensor, throttle body, replaced the plugs, coils, ECT sensor and crankshaft position sensor, and it still does this. There is no CEL, crank time is short and no noticeable drop in gas mileage.
Mine struggles to start only when the engine is hot.need your help.thanks a lot
That is what this rav4 was doing. Cold starts were fine but hot starts had a longer crank time and the engine would run rough. Injectors fixed this one but you may need to perform some testing.
Were the cold starts ok?
The cold starts we’re about 3 seconds of cranking. Hot starts were anywhere from 10-20 seconds of cranking.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Thank you so much. I have a similar issue but with an older Toyota(return system) that all began after getting Gas from Citgo. Cold starts are great, hot starts are bad. If I snap the throttle at idle big hesitation a few pops of black smoke (rich mixture)in the exhaust before the engine revs up. I assumed that the fuel pump is ok because my cold starts were good and is new miles wise . That is why I asked my question. Car does sit mostly but is started regularly. Fuel pump, injectors, pressure regulator all replaced 12 years ago (2000 miles)
J P on a return system you might want to check the vacuum hose on the regulator also. If there is fuel present then the regulator is faulty.
The evap purge solenoid could also stick open and allow excess fuel vapor into the engine. This would be worse after you fill up the tank at the fuel station.
I have a 2016 sienna that also has a long crank time only when the engine is hot, but has no misfire issues, seems to smoke a little black after it fires up as well only when engine is hot, cold and warm starts fine, could this also be an injector issue?? No issues once its running.
It could be an injector issue. I have been seeing more and more issue lately and not just toyota. A fuel pressure test may confirm the issue.
Another item that has been causing issue this summer is EVAP purge solenoids. This solenoid allow the excess fumes from the fuel tank to be burned by the engine. If the valves sticks open the fumes can enter the engine when the engine is off. This concentration of fuel fumes makes the engine harder to start and a rich condition will result for a few minutes after startup.
Was this car starting when car was warm
It was harder to start warm iirc
@@ThePracticalMechanic mine takes long to start about 45mins after switched off. No good mechanic in my area, mechanic says take to auto electrician, electricians say take it to mechaniccant win. Going to replace pump soon. Thanks for reply. Any advice will be appreciated 👍
@@mohammadshabir643 next time it doesn’t want to start try pressing the accelerator down about half way while cranking. If it starts easier then you may have excessive fuel in the engine from leaking fuel injectors
I have a long crank time when warm and sets for a bit before restarting.
Ive changed whole fuel pump assembly. Crank positioning sensor, a wire harness to the pressure valve at air cleaner, battery, lots of lucas injector cleaner, good gas ect & my mechanic said its likely not my injectors.
Im at a loss . Have NO IDEA what can cause long crank time.
No check engine lights ever( other than what coded for crank position sensor)
And no other codes
Cold start perfect
V 6 that runs like a champ
2014 xle with 120 k miles
Next my hubbs wants to change spark plugs. Did I mention this car runs great??! She just has a sluggish restart when warmed up/after driven?
Anybody get a true fix for this yet??
Btw… i posted this with my husbands account name. Im the wifey… tracy🙋♀️
We have the same issue with our 2012 sienna, we replaced spark plugs, still having the same issue. I was going to check the fuel pressure next. I’m hoping we see an issue there. Since the injectors are expensive to replace in the sienna, I was going to try getting them cleaned by running the cleaner straight to the fuel rail. If you find a fix please post. Thanks and Goodluck.
Help me with MPG ! I have CZcams channel too. I would like make a video! My RAV only do 19mpg.. its crazy. Was 24 when I got it. Got to 22 then few month late 20 now its 19... i did everything and I feel like everything I do is just making it worse...
I'm even thinking to completely replace injectors... I have not swap spark plug tho. Car have 80k still original.
Car stars fine. Every time. Don't think so i have a leakage.
Thank you
Did you add any performance parts? Cold air intakes and k&n air filters don’t help these vehicles. Did you change tires? Tires have a big impact on MPG. If nothing has changed verify that all tires are at the correct pressure. Now that you have owned it for a bit have you been adding gear or junk into the car? Extra weight can flush the MPG down the drain. Did you drive more conservative when you got it or perhaps drove it hard when you got it? In my highlander I drive it like I stole it and still get decent mpg but could probably do better if I eased up a bit.
After cranking injector will leak😂🤣🤣🤣