Home Made Grinding Wheel Balancing Fixture
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- čas přidán 16. 11. 2017
- Thanks to Randy Richard's grinding wheel balancing video, I'm on my way to finally solving grinder vibration problems. In this video I show making a good balancing jig for checking lathe chucks and grinding wheels for balance. It was well worth the time and money.
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I would like to thank you I am a retired die setter that had to do tool work on my punches and dies I have a small shop I still help out racing buddies you help guys like me remember the machinist work we forgot because I did not use it every day thank you Jimbo
Thank you Dave for all these videos you do. I purchased a HB mini lathe a while back and am learning a lot from you.
Always good to hear a comment like this. Thank You!
Consider a traditional balancing stand. The wheels are large diameter because that reduces the moment of force required to overcome the friction of the bearings (imagine a lever equal to the radius of the wheel). One layer of complexity though is that you need to balance those wheels as well. The air bearing idea is interesting though.
I like it. if RR likes it, you know it's good. I see a project in my future. I like the air-bearing Idea.
Who would have thought it would be that sensitive. 👍
The video I release next Friday shows 1/2 gram detection and why it's so sensitive.
If there are” density spots” as the wheel wears those density spots would continually change the balance of the wheel as it’s diameter decreases. And once you pass a density spot it will reverse location of the center of gravity. I would have to balance the wheel every 1/4 inch or wear. It would also wobble side to side and oscillate. Is this common practice?
Nice job Dave. Should work out well.
There is a possibility of friction against the bearing outer sidewalls also from the dust shields and grease in the bearings
Home !!😏😏😏
Nice project. By the way I love that wooden toolbox you have .
Did you think about any of the propeller balancing devices for hobbyist? Do think they would work for type of shop work?
Yup $25 free shipping works for my surface grinder.
Du-Bro 499 Tru-Spin Prop Balancer
Does a loose wheel fit on the balancing arbor while balancing have any significant affect on the accuracy of the balancing?
Oh yes! The wheel has to fit the arbor perfectly or it won't turn/spin freely.
Thanks
Saw the corner off first, then mill it. And do both together?
Very old video but not a bad idea!!!
The wheel seems to be out of balance if you look between 2:50 and 2:59, you'll see the wheel roll back after it comes to a stop. On a balanced wheel this does not happen. Your balancing device suffers from the same problem as that of Randy's balancing machine, too much friction.Randy's machine compounds the friction by having FOUR (large) points of contact trying to "drive" FOUR wheels driving EIGHT bearings. This friction will prevent a fine resolution measurement of balance. A better design is to place the arbor across two level, parallel round bars, as seen in other balancing videos. This design minimises the TWO points of contact which are VERY SMALL contact points.
yes level knife edges.
Dave, take a look at one of my old videos. czcams.com/video/53mUcjocNUQ/video.html Some strong magnets make it easier than aligning bearings, and you can achieve lower drag. You taper one end only of the shaft. Anyway, it's a quick easy way to make a super sensitive balancing system.
Hi Bill: I could not figure out the connection between the shaft and the magnets.
Could you please send me an email with a more detailed explanation?
Thanks George scrdmgl@gmail.com
Jorge,
The magnets are used to support the shaft as opposed to using bearings. As a result there is VERY little friction.
It is very easy to set up a simple experiment with two magnets. Take a steel shaft and turn one end to a point. Leave the other end flat. Then position the magnets so they are slightly wider than the shaft but do it in a way that will allow you to easily adjust the space between them. You might use clamps on this setup as opposed to screws or bolts so you can adjust the spacing.
Now place the shaft between the magnets and have the tapered point on one magnet. If the other magnet is close to the flat end, that will be enough to suspend the shaft between the magnets. Because one end is tapered, the magnetic force will be slightly less on that end than the flat end. If the gap between the magnets is too small, the shaft will jump from the magnet on the tapered end to the flat end. If that happens, increase the gap between the magnets until the pointed end stays attached to the magnet when placed there.
Adjusting the gap allows you to fine tune the pressure applied to the point. You want to adjust them until a slight force on the shaft towards the flat end of the shaft will cause it to jump to the magnet. When you get this gap just right, there will be very little force between the pointed end of the shaft and the magnet and the other end of the shaft is just held in the air by the magnet on that side. At that point the only friction is from the few grams of pressure between the pointed end of the shaft and magnet and the friction from the air itself.
Hope that explains it. If not, I'll make another video.
Oh, I just realized that if you watch at about the 58 second point in the video, you can see that just the slight pressure from trying to adjust the thumb screws caused the shaft to jump from the pointed end to the flat end on the magnets. You can see and hear it, and then you can hear me move it back to the pointed end.
While this method probably works fine, a much cheaper alternative is a Dubro Prop Balancer.
I would like a copy of your plan for this balancing jig. Thank you
theminimachineshop.com/Plans/Balancer.jpg
Prop balancer no fuss no muss
Du-Bro 499 Tru-Spin Prop Balancer
Found it on Amazon for $25 but would need mods to hold a large chuck or grinding wheel. Good input!
It does my 7& 8 x 1 in plus wheels easily. Dabbing a bit of super glue and and powder for final balance.
Better way to do it without all that machine blah blah...apiece of thin lead sheet cut it off center put hole in middle and turn it on grinding wheel till you find sweet spot and your balancing will show up on a glass of water by watching ripples.works very well.
@ 25:58 Only 10 grams, bugger all hey. If it were gold, Yes only about US$591.00. Surely, Not worth worrying about.
Please check other machinists web sites, but I'm pretty sure rotating a reamer backwards shows a bad practice and is not good for the reamer.
Why are u fly cutting the who corners off ? Just stick a 2 flure in and rip through it then if u want a nice finish put the fly cutter in and take a light pass and use the fly cutter the way its intended. It's your time your wasting taking small cuts but I would have had both sides done in 5 min
And what do you have for a mill?
his drilling of the holes is not a good method and takes too long. a good method I have switched to is mark line for low and take tape and tape on small washers or anything you want even carbide rock tumbler grit. then take jb weld and stick on the items to final balance-no they will not come off and hit you in the eye you cannot even chisel them off with a hammer. for the balancer you actually are better off making a common stand with 2 legs and also jb welding on a couple rods. no friction. many videos showing this. On the balancing of the wheels they actually dont need to be a trillionth of an ounce but you can get them that way.
as far as the rods I sawed out a square hole in a throw away coffee table and placed a couple of aluminum rods and worked fine. I did that on emergency basis because wheel was so out of balance it shook the apartments where people ran out thinking an earthquake was happening. I made a stand and turned out THAT WHEEL WAS PERFECT--didnt even have to fine tune it. anyway do not take the route of drilling divot marks--that is a wrong method.
Doesn’t help me. I’m a woodworker, not a machinist.
Sorry about that!