The best video I've seen to go beyond basics and answer some lingering questions. Consider adding the model Gamma X-2 as I would've found you much sooner!
John-David McKee thank you very much. I’m having issues with my camera but as soon as I get that fixed I’ll add more on the X-2. That was the purpose of me getting an X2 machine in the first place.
Thank you for these wonderful videos. I just got the Gamma X-2 and am very new to stringing. Your videos have taught me so much already. I can't thank you enough!
@@Mr10sStringer Thanks for your vids, been greatly helpful. My gamma machine came with some racket adaptors. Can you help explain best way to use them. I'm not sure if I'm placing the adaptors upside down and/or back to front. They're also 2 sets of adaptors (4 pieces big and small) so not sure how to properly use
nugget those adapters are used to keep the racket from being pulled into the post. There are 4 different levels of spacing use the highest on the does not touch the grommets on your racket. The higher the adapter the great the contact with the racket, but you don’t want it to touch the grommet. If the grommets sit on top of the adapter they are not in contact with the hist friction post base and the racket may slip. Also do not tighten the knob on top down too tight. It just needs to be tight enough to hold the racket down so the racket does not slip up over the adapter.
I did not mean to sound disrespectful. I enjoy your videos and how you explain your work. You have actually helped me numerous times, get out of situations, that I would of not known what to do. Thank you.
My drop weight just hits the bottom every time no matter how many times I crank it the string gets tighter but the drop weight still goes to the bottom
First of all I hope you haven't lost your star 5 and I have a new appreciation for my big boy machine. I need to string a Prince with the holes in the sides. I usually just lock the table but I was wondering if you have ever tried pulling the string and letting the string fall over to the wrong grommet and then pull the racquet over to the right position and then clamp the string (of course this is only possible with a constant pull machine). Would this work and more importantly can I get a more consistent dynamic string bed tension? Thanks
Ben Champlin I still have my Star 5. There are several options for stringing ported rackets. You can use anything to hold the string out so you can clamp it, I use a clothespin on the last tensioned cross. You can also use the 2 piece 50/50 and there is no need for anything.
Thanks for the video. I have the progression 200 which is similar to this X-2. After stringing 50 or so rackets, I have never pinched my string against that gripper. But this is an interesting solution if you have that problem. My problem with starting the mains with the clamp in the center is that you don't tension the center mains directly. You are basically double pulling here. I use a starting clamp and it's been very reliable but I do experience the issue of having the handle butt up against the puller. I slide it over slightly but you are correct, the friction will increase. Do you have a solution to avoid this problem using the starting clamp?
I'm going to make a series of videos using the the DW machine to string rackets I will make a video using a Starting Clamp to start the mains next. Thanks for the heads up.
I just tried starting the mains with a Starting clamp. IMO it is a bad idea because there is no way to lift the drop weight arm without colliding with the racket handle. if you can live with moving the handle out of the way then you should be fine. When clamping the strings like I did in this video yes you are double pulling two mains strings so the tension will be halved on the loop of string between the clamp and the racket and just about full tension above the clamp. But when you go to tension other side you double pulling that loop of string again and you should get very near full tension because what was half tension is now full tension. I agree there will be some variance between the center mains initially but when you start string crosses all should even out.
Don’t misunderstand me I think the starting clamp method is a good option but also has some drawbacks. Up to you to choose the method you like best, and I doubt you’ll be able to tell the difference.
@@Mr10sStringer I finally bought a Tourna stringmeter. And I measured the tension of the starting mains against the other mains. What I found out is that my method of using the starting clamp loses 3 lbs on both of the starting mains. My solution is just to add 3 lbs more for only these mains and tension the others accordingly. When I do this, the tension is uniform. The stringmeter is actually a great device. For the price I paid, it gives readings that are very close to the tension setting and are very consistent. Thanks for your responses.
Would it not be better to use starting clamp? With the flying clamp not in middle when starting you're pulling tension over larger distance creating lot more friction. I also find with drop weight when pulling tension if you let it sit 5 seconds when horizontal it will drop further down as more string stretches, precision is really hard...which causes such a mess. I would not be surprised if drop weight stringing tension can be off +/- 15 percent.
I think the thing to do is be consistent with your procedure to minimize variation, I.e., try to keep the time between pulling and clamping pretty much the same for all strings. Then you should get pretty consistent and repeatable results. You will also find that different strings react differently to time with constant pull.
Thanks for the vid. I just tried this for the first time tonight. The strings in the middle are looser than the strings on the outside. It’s progressive. What could have gone wrong ?
Hi - I just got one of these machines and I've strung a couple of my own rackets. I use RacketTune to test the tension - I'm looking to get 22kg and it's reading 18kg :-( I've tested the app with another of my professionally strung rackets and the app measures it at 22kg on the nose. Any ideas what might be causing such huge tension loss? I'm using a poly string (Weiss Cannon Silver String). Thanks for any tips!
Watch that video again and pay particular attention to the DW arm at 5:50 when the clamp is moved. If you notice the arm drops just a little bit. That arm drops because tension in the previously tensioned string is lower than the tension in the string you just tensioned. As the 2 sections of string equalize tension falls and than tension drop will continue with every string. THIS IS MY HYPOTHESIS, and not fact. I think you must continue to level the DW arm after you release the clamp every time after you release the clamp. I’ll address this in my next video soon but I’m having technical difficulties I have to fix first.
@@Mr10sStringer Thanks for getting back to me. So do you mean pull tension with the clamp on, take clamp off whilst still pulling tension, and then re-level DW bar? Cheers!
OK well I tried your method AND I tightened my clamps to the max (I think they may have been too loose) and I now have 22.6kgs....I'll take it! Thanks for the tips!
How much tension is lost when you start the string job with the string clamp in the middle. Is it true that you do not have full tension on those 2 main strings in the middle of the racquet? Yet, I originally started stringing like this method and found it was different than other people's starting techniques.
abarekilla if you have a starting clamp you could use it to hold one side then use both flying clamps on the side you’re tying off. And extra flying clamp would work also.
Mr10sStringer, that’s an idea! Thank you I’ll try that. Could you also make a short video on this subject? There’s little to no vids for this particular Issue using a drop weight stringer.
@@user-go8oj4dl4w as you pull tension on the last main it straightens the last set clamp. Then I use another clamp to hold the last main. Because there are 2 clamps holding the last 3 string the is less clamp twisting on the clamps and less tension loss.
@@Mr10sStringer thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I pictured putting the clamps one behind the other on the same two strings, rather than the 3rd last main as well.
At 5:55 the drop weight arm drops an additional inch after you've pulled tension and released the center flying clamp. This same thing happens to me. I Use Racqtune and it's never given me the desired tension I want (58 lbs) and I think this is the reason. How do you avoid that problem? Hopefully I was clear enough.
Michael Green that is going to happen even with my Star 5 machine although not as bad because the eCP continues to pull. As tensioned string sits the string starts relaxing and if it is not retensioned the arm will fall. As you start tensioning string toward the outside of the frame the frame distorts and becomes wider and shorter. As the frame becomes shorter tension drops. You could re-level the bar to get the arm back to level but I would not try to get the tension back up on the center strings. Also if you’re using only 1 clamp per side the bar will fall slightly and if you want to re-level you can. I’d just find a tension I like and stay with it. Another option (if you have a third clamp or starting clamp is to work with 2 flying clamp per side on the mains as you’re tensioning the mains on one side. You won’t see the bar falling that way.
@@Mr10sStringer I appreciate the quick response! and thank you. I saw a video you made using the 3rd option. My next string job I'll try it. I play around with the tightness of the flying clamps. How tight should they be? I want to avoid slippage and at the same time not damage the string. I don't know where that happy medium is.
Michael Green my clamps are not tight at all. To begin with make sure they are clean to reduce slippage. Another thing I’ve found helps is to have back pressure on the clamp. If you use 2 clamps you create back pressure and there’s less slippage.
@@Mr10sStringer what do you mean back pressure? Can you elaborate please, as I also use a drop weight stringer for my string jobs. Thanks in advance boss man
When i tension the string and the dropweight is completely horizontal, sometimes when i take off the clamp, the weight lowers a little. Should i retension again to set the weight horizontal? this happened at 5:51
Too late you should equalize the tension just before removing clamp. All that is needed is to tug on the string a bit. This will break the friction bond at the racket and chances are the bar won’t drop.
Another trouble you could be having is the clamps are slipping. Hold your finger on the DW tensioner side of the clamp as you release tension. If your clamps are slipping you will feel it. If the clamps slip any when you move the clamp the tension will equalize and the DW arm will fall.
@@Mr10sStringer I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to my question. Another doubt that always comes to my mine is if there is a way to calibrate a drop weight stringer.
@@Cesarini77 it would not be easy to calibrate but even if you could why do it? If I strung a racket at 55 lbs after string it I doubt strung tension would not be the same as reference tension and a day later it would be lower. After playing even lower. Find a number you like and go with it. If it feels right no matter what the reference was to get there it’s good for you.
what causes the drop weight to drop further when i release the clamp to re-clamp the next set of mains? i am assuming there was a problem. maybe too much angle/friction on the pull?
The string probably slipped in the clamp on the previous string. Make sure you clean your clamp teeth with some isopropyl alcohol on a QTip before each stringing session. Adjusting clamping tighter to prevent slipping is not a good idea, because you can crush the string, and then it will break prematurely or even during stringing.
Hi , I have been doing my stringing for soemtime now. Whats your take on using a starting pin to strings the main 2 strings? I feel thats a better way to get closer to desired tension.
rakesh0085 I’ve never used the starting pin but I’m guessing if you do you will have and issue with the handle blocking the DW arm. But any way you feel is good for you is probably a good method. The start pin looks like a good method too.
rakesh0085 granted there will be a small amount of tension loss but I think by the time you string the crosses it will even out. You going to have some tension loss on the first 2 string you clamp no matter how you do it.
@@Mr10sStringer Thanks for your reply. I am planing to buy the Gamma Progression II 602 FC Stringing Machine to replace my current machine( the flying clamp + the 2 point mounting system). whats your view on that machine?
The best video I've seen to go beyond basics and answer some lingering questions. Consider adding the model Gamma X-2 as I would've found you much sooner!
John-David McKee thank you very much. I’m having issues with my camera but as soon as I get that fixed I’ll add more on the X-2. That was the purpose of me getting an X2 machine in the first place.
Thank you for these wonderful videos. I just got the Gamma X-2 and am very new to stringing. Your videos have taught me so much already. I can't thank you enough!
David Lewis thank you
@@Mr10sStringer Thanks for your vids, been greatly helpful. My gamma machine came with some racket adaptors. Can you help explain best way to use them. I'm not sure if I'm placing the adaptors upside down and/or back to front. They're also 2 sets of adaptors (4 pieces big and small) so not sure how to properly use
nugget those adapters are used to keep the racket from being pulled into the post. There are 4 different levels of spacing use the highest on the does not touch the grommets on your racket. The higher the adapter the great the contact with the racket, but you don’t want it to touch the grommet. If the grommets sit on top of the adapter they are not in contact with the hist friction post base and the racket may slip. Also do not tighten the knob on top down too tight. It just needs to be tight enough to hold the racket down so the racket does not slip up over the adapter.
I did not mean to sound disrespectful. I enjoy your videos and how you explain your work. You have actually helped me numerous times, get out of situations, that I would of not known what to do. Thank you.
Welcome back
Missed seeing your stringing videos
whisper0555 thank you
wow this video is wonderful. I really appreciate
More video's please! 😊
Thank you.
You are simply the best!
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you you’re awesome
My drop weight just hits the bottom every time no matter how many times I crank it the string gets tighter but the drop weight still goes to the bottom
First of all I hope you haven't lost your star 5 and I have a new appreciation for my big boy machine. I need to string a Prince with the holes in the sides. I usually just lock the table but I was wondering if you have ever tried pulling the string and letting the string fall over to the wrong grommet and then pull the racquet over to the right position and then clamp the string (of course this is only possible with a constant pull machine). Would this work and more importantly can I get a more consistent dynamic string bed tension? Thanks
Ben Champlin I still have my Star 5. There are several options for stringing ported rackets. You can use anything to hold the string out so you can clamp it, I use a clothespin on the last tensioned cross. You can also use the 2 piece 50/50 and there is no need for anything.
Do you think this method is worth while for a racket where the 2nd mains come out of the head anyway, where there are 8 holes in the throat?
Thank you
Thanks for the video. I have the progression 200 which is similar to this X-2. After stringing 50 or so rackets, I have never pinched my string against that gripper. But this is an interesting solution if you have that problem. My problem with starting the mains with the clamp in the center is that you don't tension the center mains directly. You are basically double pulling here. I use a starting clamp and it's been very reliable but I do experience the issue of having the handle butt up against the puller. I slide it over slightly but you are correct, the friction will increase. Do you have a solution to avoid this problem using the starting clamp?
I'm going to make a series of videos using the the DW machine to string rackets I will make a video using a Starting Clamp to start the mains next. Thanks for the heads up.
I just tried starting the mains with a Starting clamp. IMO it is a bad idea because there is no way to lift the drop weight arm without colliding with the racket handle. if you can live with moving the handle out of the way then you should be fine. When clamping the strings like I did in this video yes you are double pulling two mains strings so the tension will be halved on the loop of string between the clamp and the racket and just about full tension above the clamp. But when you go to tension other side you double pulling that loop of string again and you should get very near full tension because what was half tension is now full tension. I agree there will be some variance between the center mains initially but when you start string crosses all should even out.
Don’t misunderstand me I think the starting clamp method is a good option but also has some drawbacks. Up to you to choose the method you like best, and I doubt you’ll be able to tell the difference.
@@Mr10sStringer I finally bought a Tourna stringmeter. And I measured the tension of the starting mains against the other mains. What I found out is that my method of using the starting clamp loses 3 lbs on both of the starting mains. My solution is just to add 3 lbs more for only these mains and tension the others accordingly. When I do this, the tension is uniform. The stringmeter is actually a great device. For the price I paid, it gives readings that are very close to the tension setting and are very consistent. Thanks for your responses.
Would it not be better to use starting clamp? With the flying clamp not in middle when starting you're pulling tension over larger distance creating lot more friction. I also find with drop weight when pulling tension if you let it sit 5 seconds when horizontal it will drop further down as more string stretches, precision is really hard...which causes such a mess. I would not be surprised if drop weight stringing tension can be off +/- 15 percent.
I think the thing to do is be consistent with your procedure to minimize variation, I.e., try to keep the time between pulling and clamping pretty much the same for all strings. Then you should get pretty consistent and repeatable results. You will also find that different strings react differently to time with constant pull.
Is this better than the Klippermate ?
Thanks for the vid. I just tried this for the first time tonight. The strings in the middle are looser than the strings on the outside. It’s progressive. What could have gone wrong ?
As you string the mains the racket compresses and the center mains loose tension. And you sting the crosses the reverse happens.
@@Mr10sStringer thanks for the reply. Makes sense. So I didn’t mess up after all.
When you start with a clamp in the middle, is it true you don't get true tension on those two beginning strings?
100% true
how can you fix this?
Do you find that the tension comes out accurate?
Stu Pendous that depends on the tension. I believe the flying clamps have a tendency to slip a little and if that happens you will loose tension.
Hi - I just got one of these machines and I've strung a couple of my own rackets. I use RacketTune to test the tension - I'm looking to get 22kg and it's reading 18kg :-( I've tested the app with another of my professionally strung rackets and the app measures it at 22kg on the nose. Any ideas what might be causing such huge tension loss? I'm using a poly string (Weiss Cannon Silver String). Thanks for any tips!
Watch that video again and pay particular attention to the DW arm at 5:50 when the clamp is moved. If you notice the arm drops just a little bit. That arm drops because tension in the previously tensioned string is lower than the tension in the string you just tensioned. As the 2 sections of string equalize tension falls and than tension drop will continue with every string. THIS IS MY HYPOTHESIS, and not fact.
I think you must continue to level the DW arm after you release the clamp every time after you release the clamp. I’ll address this in my next video soon but I’m having technical difficulties I have to fix first.
@@Mr10sStringer Thanks for getting back to me. So do you mean pull tension with the clamp on, take clamp off whilst still pulling tension, and then re-level DW bar? Cheers!
Brian O'Neill yes if you don’t get back the tension loss you’re below reference tension before you ever tie off the string.
@@Mr10sStringer OK cool. Will give it a shot and let you know how I get on. Cheers!
OK well I tried your method AND I tightened my clamps to the max (I think they may have been too loose) and I now have 22.6kgs....I'll take it! Thanks for the tips!
What brand flying clamps do you use?
Jeff Coffey I use the flying clamps that came with the machine.
5:50 the weight handle dropped slightly, I would re-raised the handle to make it level
How much tension is lost when you start the string job with the string clamp in the middle. Is it true that you do not have full tension on those 2 main strings in the middle of the racquet?
Yet, I originally started stringing like this method and found it was different than other people's starting techniques.
How much is lost on the 2 center strings? I have no idea but if you want a firmer stringbed simply raise the tension.
@@Mr10sStringer
Reasonable!
Yes, I have made the correction. Thank you 😊
@@bowsershark I would not just increase tension on the center mains. If you increase tension leave that reference tension for all strings.
@@Mr10sStringer
Yes, did! Thanks
How do you compensate for the loss of tension on last 2 main strings before tie offs?
abarekilla if you have a starting clamp you could use it to hold one side then use both flying clamps on the side you’re tying off. And extra flying clamp would work also.
Mr10sStringer, that’s an idea! Thank you I’ll try that. Could you also make a short video on this subject? There’s little to no vids for this particular Issue using a drop weight stringer.
@@Mr10sStringer could you explain why using two clamps would reduce the tension loss?
@@user-go8oj4dl4w as you pull tension on the last main it straightens the last set clamp. Then I use another clamp to hold the last main. Because there are 2 clamps holding the last 3 string the is less clamp twisting on the clamps and less tension loss.
@@Mr10sStringer thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I pictured putting the clamps one behind the other on the same two strings, rather than the 3rd last main as well.
At 5:55 the drop weight arm drops an additional inch after you've pulled tension and released the center flying clamp. This same thing happens to me. I Use Racqtune and it's never given me the desired tension I want (58 lbs) and I think this is the reason. How do you avoid that problem? Hopefully I was clear enough.
Michael Green that is going to happen even with my Star 5 machine although not as bad because the eCP continues to pull. As tensioned string sits the string starts relaxing and if it is not retensioned the arm will fall. As you start tensioning string toward the outside of the frame the frame distorts and becomes wider and shorter. As the frame becomes shorter tension drops.
You could re-level the bar to get the arm back to level but I would not try to get the tension back up on the center strings. Also if you’re using only 1 clamp per side the bar will fall slightly and if you want to re-level you can. I’d just find a tension I like and stay with it.
Another option (if you have a third clamp or starting clamp is to work with 2 flying clamp per side on the mains as you’re tensioning the mains on one side. You won’t see the bar falling that way.
@@Mr10sStringer I appreciate the quick response! and thank you. I saw a video you made using the 3rd option. My next string job I'll try it. I play around with the tightness of the flying clamps. How tight should they be? I want to avoid slippage and at the same time not damage the string. I don't know where that happy medium is.
Michael Green my clamps are not tight at all. To begin with make sure they are clean to reduce slippage. Another thing I’ve found helps is to have back pressure on the clamp. If you use 2 clamps you create back pressure and there’s less slippage.
@@Mr10sStringer I've never thought about that (back pressure), but I like it.
@@Mr10sStringer what do you mean back pressure? Can you elaborate please, as I also use a drop weight stringer for my string jobs. Thanks in advance boss man
When i tension the string and the dropweight is completely horizontal, sometimes when i take off the clamp, the weight lowers a little. Should i retension again to set the weight horizontal? this happened at 5:51
Too late you should equalize the tension just before removing clamp. All that is needed is to tug on the string a bit. This will break the friction bond at the racket and chances are the bar won’t drop.
Another trouble you could be having is the clamps are slipping. Hold your finger on the DW tensioner side of the clamp as you release tension. If your clamps are slipping you will feel it. If the clamps slip any when you move the clamp the tension will equalize and the DW arm will fall.
@@Mr10sStringer I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to my question. Another doubt that always comes to my mine is if there is a way to calibrate a drop weight stringer.
@@Cesarini77 it would not be easy to calibrate but even if you could why do it? If I strung a racket at 55 lbs after string it I doubt strung tension would not be the same as reference tension and a day later it would be lower. After playing even lower. Find a number you like and go with it. If it feels right no matter what the reference was to get there it’s good for you.
@@Mr10sStringer Good point.
what causes the drop weight to drop further when i release the clamp to re-clamp the next set of mains? i am assuming there was a problem. maybe too much angle/friction on the pull?
The string probably slipped in the clamp on the previous string. Make sure you clean your clamp teeth with some isopropyl alcohol on a QTip before each stringing session. Adjusting clamping tighter to prevent slipping is not a good idea, because you can crush the string, and then it will break prematurely or even during stringing.
Hi , I have been doing my stringing for soemtime now. Whats your take on using a starting pin to strings the main 2 strings? I feel thats a better way to get closer to desired tension.
Also in the method shown in your video, the center main is not being tensioned directly. So we might have some tension loss there i feel.
rakesh0085 I’ve never used the starting pin but I’m guessing if you do you will have and issue with the handle blocking the DW arm. But any way you feel is good for you is probably a good method. The start pin looks like a good method too.
rakesh0085 granted there will be a small amount of tension loss but I think by the time you string the crosses it will even out. You going to have some tension loss on the first 2 string you clamp no matter how you do it.
@@Mr10sStringer Thanks for your reply. I am planing to buy the Gamma Progression II 602 FC Stringing Machine to replace my current machine( the flying clamp + the 2 point mounting system). whats your view on that machine?
rakesh0085 I’ve not used that machine but I have found all the Gamma machines I’ve used to be quality machine and well supported.