I did mine yesterday and it turned out perfectly! Thank you for the video. Here are a few tips I figured out: 1) White is positive, black is negative. 2) A heat gun is almost a necessity. It does a nice job of softening the sealer before you cut or scrape it away. Spend the $25 and get one. Be patient, work a six inch long section at a time, and do not hover over one spot with the heat too long. You WILL deform the plastic. 3) I used 10-year silicone, the kind you apply with a caulk gun. I got it at Walmart for $5.
Seven years later and your post is still saving people money, can't beat that. Thank you. The nearest Autozone is about an hour me, so I bought the led strips at WalMart. Probably about an inch short on each side, but didn't make a difference, nice n bright. Had to make a couple of tweaks, but nothing major.
Saved 200$ with this fix. To everyone wondering how the wiring hooks up, white cable going into the light assembly is positive DC, black is negative DC. My led strip had a black cable and a black/white striped cable. I stripped all the wires and hooked up black with black and white with the black/white striped cable, used some twist-on wire connector caps and it worked flawlessly. Thanks for the idea RelicHunter!
In some states, like here in FL, not having a working 3rd break light is reason enough for a stop and summons to fix. So thanks for showing this. Gave me the courage to try it.
Thank you, this video encouraged me to perform LED conversion for my failed 3rd brake light. However, as you told in video glue removal process is very frustrating and patience asking. I spent almost 2 days just for glue removal. Heating up is essential, but regular hairdryer works for this reason, no special tool is required.
I did this last weekend. The results were excellent. I would not have done this if it were not for this video, so thank you very much for posting this. My results ended up looking just as good as the CTS in this video. Some things I would do differently: I used a proper heat gun which made separating the halves easier. It was still a TOUGH job. I would not cut the power wire until after the lens is separated from the base. That way the wire can be cut next to the transformer to keep a stock appearance to the wiring and to hide the wiring splices inside the taillight. I wouldn't use 2 part epoxy around the perimeter if I had to do it again since it will be nearly impossible to separate if any of the LEDs should burn out. If I had to do it again, I would spread a thin bead of silicone on the underside of the flat area of the lens, a few small spots of 2 part epoxy or hot melt glue in the grooves just for hold power, and then run a tiny bead of silicone around the rest of the lens for sealing. That would make it far easier to disassemble in the future in the unlikely event the taillight ever needs to be taken apart again. You will also need to have acetone or acetone based brake cleaner on hand to quickly remove any smudges of epoxy or silicone that gets on the lens trying to fit the two halves together. I got fingerprints all over the one I fixed and may have ruined it had I not thought ahead to have acetone on standby if needed. I also purchased a spool of red LEDs instead of the Autozone ones in this video (I saw elsewhere that white LEDs make the lens look pink) off of Amazon which comes in a 16-foot spool for under $10. I have used it to fix the Caddy and the 3rd brake light on my Mercury Mariner and have many feet of LEDs left for other projects. smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FFYDFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These LED strips come with an adhesive backing, but I used hot melt glue to tack the sides down every few inches just as insurance to keep the strip from ever coming loose from the reflector. They come with both ends wired, but you can to length any size strip you need and solder new wire ends on if you cut back the silicone and solder wires to the end pads or use 8mm LED solderless strip wiring clips made for the purpose. Make sure you have the wire polarity correct as they won't light with reverse current. What I am reading is that aftermarket taillights run $320 and a dealer would charge $800 to replace one, so this video just saved my elderly mother a lot of money in getting her 3rd brake light working again. Many, many thanks to LaRelicHunter Kelley for creating and posting this video!
For anyone seeing this now, the process was pretty easy and it looks really good, white is positive and black is negative. Takes about an hour start to finish.
I truly Appreciate the motivation this video has given me. My patience level is negative 3, but I made it and I'll upload video with the finished product
LaRelicHunter thanks for your nice video I would ask Sir if it is possible to fix CTS 2008 3rd light in DTS 2006 they look very similar .. Best regards
@ relichunter i got the red led striping from autozone too,,,,, and was able to take two flat head screw drivers and go around edge of lense and pop it apart, probably took 15 minutes if,,, you need torx fitting to remove the lense off the plate mount backet,,, n used factor connectors n soldered in the led after testin it ty for viddie jay
Hey Jose there are only two wires a 12 volt and a ground wire. The original system works with a internal neon ballast. All your doing is adding LED lights and doing away with the ballast and neon tubes. With car off cut the wires closest to the old unit and reuse your rubber wire grommet. Take a test light with someone holding brake down to make sure what wire is hot (12v) under normal circumstances red is hot black is ground in DC. I believe on the Caddi the white is hot the black is your ground. Good luck!
I have the same color car and noticed only half my 3rd light works, which is annoying me now that I know that. This is my 2nd light, original totally died so got the whole license plate holder n all off eBay for $50 few years back. Also the whole plate holder n all is black which really offsets the rear and looks great! But now I know how to take the light apart without breaking everything.
Yes using a heat gun will help especially in winter months. It was like 92 degrees the day I did this and it still was difficult. You have to take your time so not to break the lens..
LaRelicHunter thanks for the video. Can you tell me the brand/type of sealant that you used for 1) to attach the LED strip inside of the housing and 2) for gluing/sealing the outer shells of the light assembly back together? Thanks!
The only portion I'm lost at us when you cut the wires from the ballist and removed the original where are you actually making the connection if you removed all wires from the original ?
Ralph CUBIAS I am sorry the wiring was easy you have two wires one 12 volt and one ground. Use your test light find your hot and ground and use but connectors and heat shrink. Glad you enjoyed video. Never thought it would get this many hits! Tks
Andre Lara no remove ballast completely. No need for it. Use the track where the old ballast was for your LED strip. Lay a bead of good sealant down in place. Smooth it with your finger and lay LED in place. Helps hold strip secure. Hope this helps.
daltons channel sorry about late answer been out of town with family. No leaks on mine. You might not have it secured tightly enough or you may want to try taking the light back out and put a small bead of what they call the Right Stuff. A permatex brand gasket maker seal. Apply only where the light back touches the trunk before RE-securing. So it will make it harder to remove next time but will stop the leak for good. Hope this helps.
@@LaRelicHunter I'm definitely going to try this. I've got it tight but not overly tight since I'm dealing with plastic but thanks man. Right Stuff it is then. Cheer's!!
Tiffany Baucum a industrial heat gun and a sharp sturdy tile knife. A few picks and pocket screwdriver will help. It takes time and patience. Be careful not to cut yourself or scratch the lens. What ever you do do not put lens in oven. Some told a friend of mine to do that on a different vehicle and he melted his lights. Lol You will get it just takes time.
I don't know if you still get notifications from this video, but was wondering if you ever tried making the leds chase with the turn signals like seen in newer mustang's. If it is possible I would like to know how
Thomas Mayer Yes sorry for the late response but yes you can buy the tracers and or different colors. Install same way but make sure to test before gluing unit back together. Great idea Thomas!
@@LaRelicHunter can u possibly forward me a link showing what I need to buy. The small town i live in only has a autozone and they dont understand what I'm looking for. Whet I Google it, it only shows me the full kits for a whole car.
Yes it is ridicules what they charge. The whole idea was to save people money. You can spend a thousand or 15 dollars max. There is company's that will do this LED repair for you but your still looking at 200 dollars. Fix it yourself and you will be impressed!
Hey there is a metal box located near the light that rusted out most like my the relay for the third brake light does any one know the name of the part
Adante Paige ok the reverse lights are a different animals . There is a fuse and a relay you will need to check first normally under the back seat. Fuse box next to battery. Can’t remember the fuse number but should have a chart on back of fuse cover. From what I have found in most reverse lights is where the trunk shuts at the left side hinge it moves the wires and causes wires to break at times. I would check the light first there should be 3 wires going into the reverse light bulb. Green hot and black ground. Check there first confirm no power. Next check fuses then if no issues found pull back the insulation in the trunk by the trunk hinge and check for broken or rubbed wires. Cadillac’s are bad on that design. Let me know what you find. Hope this helps.
I'm gonna try it, it the 5th ticket I get for not wanting to pay 450 to replace it.. pray this works for me.. can't believe they didn't just make it to replace the bulb 🤦♀️😤😤
Back when I made this video you could buy the the whole light but insanely high. Just take your time separating the housing. Hardest part. Let us know how it came out?
@@LaRelicHunter I did it, took apart with heat gun. But the led lights I got didn't work 😕 😪 I got to different ones solid red and the multiple colors. No luck 😪
@@SuperBigdaddyjohn nope nothing special just an LED strip light. You can use white lights since the lens is red or use red for that bright red look. Hardest part is separating the light housing. Take your time with it. A heat gun and patients.
Do not attempt this if someone is still having/reading in 2021. Glue on the top side is not reachable and you will just end up wasting time and potentially breaking the plastic
The rear brake lights on the earlier 2000 model CTS Cadillacs go out the neon tube ballast never last more than a few years. LED uses less amperage and last 10 times longer.
NEXT TIME YOU DO ONE OF THESE VIDEOS WHY NOT TRY A LITTLE HARDER TO KEEP WHAT YOU WANT TO SHOW US INSIDE THE FRAME!!! HALF OF WHAT YOU TALK ABOUT YOU DO OUTSIDE OF THE CAMERA FRAME AND IS NO HELP AT ALL.
I did mine yesterday and it turned out perfectly! Thank you for the video. Here are a few tips I figured out:
1) White is positive, black is negative.
2) A heat gun is almost a necessity. It does a nice job of softening the sealer before you cut or scrape it away. Spend the $25 and get one. Be patient, work a six inch long section at a time, and do not hover over one spot with the heat too long. You WILL deform the plastic.
3) I used 10-year silicone, the kind you apply with a caulk gun. I got it at Walmart for $5.
Seven years later and your post is still saving people money, can't beat that. Thank you. The nearest Autozone is about an hour me, so I bought the led strips at WalMart. Probably about an inch short on each side, but didn't make a difference, nice n bright. Had to make a couple of tweaks, but nothing major.
Saved 200$ with this fix. To everyone wondering how the wiring hooks up, white cable going into the light assembly is positive DC, black is negative DC. My led strip had a black cable and a black/white striped cable. I stripped all the wires and hooked up black with black and white with the black/white striped cable, used some twist-on wire connector caps and it worked flawlessly. Thanks for the idea RelicHunter!
In some states, like here in FL, not having a working 3rd break light is reason enough for a stop and summons to fix. So thanks for showing this. Gave me the courage to try it.
Thank you, this video encouraged me to perform LED conversion for my failed 3rd brake light. However, as you told in video glue removal process is very frustrating and patience asking. I spent almost 2 days just for glue removal. Heating up is essential, but regular hairdryer works for this reason, no special tool is required.
I did this last weekend. The results were excellent. I would not have done this if it were not for this video, so thank you very much for posting this. My results ended up looking just as good as the CTS in this video.
Some things I would do differently: I used a proper heat gun which made separating the halves easier. It was still a TOUGH job.
I would not cut the power wire until after the lens is separated from the base. That way the wire can be cut next to the transformer to keep a stock appearance to the wiring and to hide the wiring splices inside the taillight.
I wouldn't use 2 part epoxy around the perimeter if I had to do it again since it will be nearly impossible to separate if any of the LEDs should burn out. If I had to do it again, I would spread a thin bead of silicone on the underside of the flat area of the lens, a few small spots of 2 part epoxy or hot melt glue in the grooves just for hold power, and then run a tiny bead of silicone around the rest of the lens for sealing. That would make it far easier to disassemble in the future in the unlikely event the taillight ever needs to be taken apart again.
You will also need to have acetone or acetone based brake cleaner on hand to quickly remove any smudges of epoxy or silicone that gets on the lens trying to fit the two halves together. I got fingerprints all over the one I fixed and may have ruined it had I not thought ahead to have acetone on standby if needed.
I also purchased a spool of red LEDs instead of the Autozone ones in this video (I saw elsewhere that white LEDs make the lens look pink) off of Amazon which comes in a 16-foot spool for under $10. I have used it to fix the Caddy and the 3rd brake light on my Mercury Mariner and have many feet of LEDs left for other projects. smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FFYDFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These LED strips come with an adhesive backing, but I used hot melt glue to tack the sides down every few inches just as insurance to keep the strip from ever coming loose from the reflector. They come with both ends wired, but you can to length any size strip you need and solder new wire ends on if you cut back the silicone and solder wires to the end pads or use 8mm LED solderless strip wiring clips made for the purpose. Make sure you have the wire polarity correct as they won't light with reverse current.
What I am reading is that aftermarket taillights run $320 and a dealer would charge $800 to replace one, so this video just saved my elderly mother a lot of money in getting her 3rd brake light working again.
Many, many thanks to LaRelicHunter Kelley for creating and posting this video!
Thank you Ron glad it worked out for you!
For anyone seeing this now, the process was pretty easy and it looks really good, white is positive and black is negative. Takes about an hour start to finish.
Im in phoenix, and just by mentioning cts-v they automatically say over $100 . thanks bro , very nice.
Great job brother..looks 100👍!! Ty for sharing your knowledge. Gotta give it a go
I truly Appreciate the motivation this video has given me. My patience level is negative 3, but I made it and I'll upload video with the finished product
Aundra Hull how hard was it to do man? I need to do mine
Thanks you so much for this video I've done the install myself I've save so much money.....
thanks for the video brother. just did mine and it looks great.
Man that's Great Brennan! Saves you a lot of money and better than originals. Good job.
I bought the LED light strip at autoZone for about 14 dollars 4 foot strip you cut to size. Hardest part is removing lens. Heat gun helps.
LaRelicHunter thanks for your nice video I would ask Sir if it is possible to fix CTS 2008 3rd light in DTS 2006 they look very similar .. Best regards
nice job sir, just doing mine right now 👌
@ relichunter i got the red led striping from autozone too,,,,, and was able to take two flat head screw drivers and go around edge of lense and pop it apart, probably took 15 minutes if,,, you need torx fitting to remove the lense off the plate mount backet,,, n used factor connectors n soldered in the led after testin it ty for viddie jay
Hey Jose there are only two wires a 12 volt and a ground wire. The original system works with a internal neon ballast. All your doing is adding LED lights and doing away with the ballast and neon tubes.
With car off cut the wires closest to the old unit and reuse your rubber wire grommet. Take a test light with someone holding brake down to make sure what wire is hot (12v) under normal circumstances red is hot black is ground in DC. I believe on the Caddi the white is hot the black is your ground.
Good luck!
I have the same color car and noticed only half my 3rd light works, which is annoying me now that I know that. This is my 2nd light, original totally died so got the whole license plate holder n all off eBay for $50 few years back. Also the whole plate holder n all is black which really offsets the rear and looks great! But now I know how to take the light apart without breaking everything.
Yes using a heat gun will help especially in winter months.
It was like 92 degrees the day I did this and it still was difficult. You have to take your time so not to break the lens..
LaRelicHunter thanks for the video. Can you tell me the brand/type of sealant that you used for 1) to attach the LED strip inside of the housing and 2) for gluing/sealing the outer shells of the light assembly back together? Thanks!
how did you do the wiring conversion?
Where did you get the led? And how did you connected the wire + & - to the led?
The only portion I'm lost at us when you cut the wires from the ballist and removed the original where are you actually making the connection if you removed all wires from the original ?
Great video....didn't show the rewiring , wire ends from tubes inside, what did you do with the wire ends on the tubes?, wasnt a complete video
Ralph CUBIAS
I am sorry the wiring was easy you have two wires one 12 volt and one ground. Use your test light find your hot and ground and use but connectors and heat shrink. Glad you enjoyed video. Never thought it would get this many hits! Tks
What did you use to seal the casing once your were done with the wiring? thanks
samre jones I used a good sealant like the right stuff.
Very good sealant.
u didn't show how u connected them wires to car I'm not over good cables
So there was never a ballast placed back in there? Not needed for the LED strip?
Andre Lara no remove ballast completely. No need for it.
Use the track where the old ballast was for your LED strip.
Lay a bead of good sealant down in place. Smooth it with your finger and lay LED in place.
Helps hold strip secure.
Hope this helps.
If you wanted it it bright as possible I would’ve gotten white leds since the housing is red anywyas
I have a 2008 cts which the third brake light leaks water into the trunk so I'm curious if this leaked once you replace it? Thanks for the video
daltons channel sorry about late answer been out of town with family. No leaks on mine. You might not have it secured tightly enough or you may want to try taking the light back out and put a small bead of what they call the Right Stuff. A permatex brand gasket maker seal. Apply only where the light back touches the trunk before RE-securing. So it will make it harder to remove next time but will stop the leak for good. Hope this helps.
@@LaRelicHunter I'm definitely going to try this. I've got it tight but not overly tight since I'm dealing with plastic but thanks man. Right Stuff it is then. Cheer's!!
Can’t get the lens apart to save my life! Any suggestions?
Tiffany Baucum a industrial heat gun and a sharp sturdy tile knife. A few picks and pocket screwdriver will help.
It takes time and patience. Be careful not to cut yourself or scratch the lens. What ever you do do not put lens in oven. Some told a friend of mine to do that on a different vehicle and he melted his lights. Lol
You will get it just takes time.
I don't know if you still get notifications from this video, but was wondering if you ever tried making the leds chase with the turn signals like seen in newer mustang's. If it is possible I would like to know how
Thomas Mayer
Yes sorry for the late response but yes you can buy the tracers and or different colors. Install same way but make sure to test before gluing unit back together. Great idea Thomas!
@@LaRelicHunter can u possibly forward me a link showing what I need to buy. The small town i live in only has a autozone and they dont understand what I'm looking for. Whet I Google it, it only shows me the full kits for a whole car.
Thomas Mayer auto zone called 24 inch rapid scan. 18 dollars.
This works great. Took over an hour to separate the lens. Go slow. It's tough work.
What did you use to glue the two halves back together?
Gorilla 2 Part Epoxy, 5 Minute Set,
@@LaRelicHunter Thank you. Have you had any problems with separation? I will be doing this repair to my Mother's CTS in the near future.
do you know what the part number is? or a link? thanks
Go to your local auto zone but the red 4ft strip around 13 dollars. Tried to post link.
does the led have to be red our white ?
Carlos Campos Red works better sorry for late response.
you didn't show how to wire it though.
Take your time separating the back of lens. Can be challenging but a little work and you will save a bunch of money.
Does your cruise control still work?
Yes it works fine. No issues
Yes it is ridicules what they charge. The whole idea was to save people money. You can spend a thousand or 15 dollars max.
There is company's that will do this LED repair for you but your still looking at 200 dollars.
Fix it yourself and you will be impressed!
Hey there is a metal box located near the light that rusted out most like my the relay for the third brake light does any one know the name of the part
Adante Paige I believe your talking about the ballast for the old tube style light.
Is it needed for led conversion
Adante Paige no the LED does not require the ballast. That’s the best part of going LED.
Super low amp draw.
Such a nice car. People are stupid for liking suv’s. Especially fwd. Cadillac is killing the CTS for CT6.
Ok also do you have any idea why the reverse lights don’t work
Adante Paige ok the reverse lights are a different animals . There is a fuse and a relay you will need to check first normally under the back seat. Fuse box next to battery.
Can’t remember the fuse number but should have a chart on back of fuse cover.
From what I have found in most reverse lights is where the trunk shuts at the left side hinge it moves the wires and causes wires to break at times. I would check the light first there should be 3 wires going into the reverse light bulb. Green hot and black ground. Check there first confirm no power. Next check fuses then if no issues found pull back the insulation in the trunk by the trunk hinge and check for broken or rubbed wires.
Cadillac’s are bad on that design.
Let me know what you find.
Hope this helps.
Thank you
I'm gonna try it, it the 5th ticket I get for not wanting to pay 450 to replace it.. pray this works for me.. can't believe they didn't just make it to replace the bulb 🤦♀️😤😤
Back when I made this video you could buy the the whole light but insanely high.
Just take your time separating the housing. Hardest part. Let us know how it came out?
@@LaRelicHunter
I did it, took apart with heat gun. But the led lights I got didn't work 😕 😪 I got to different ones solid red and the multiple colors. No luck 😪
Is there a special LED light? I got mine at Walmart
@@SuperBigdaddyjohn nope nothing special just an LED strip light. You can use white lights since the lens is red or use red for that bright red look. Hardest part is separating the light housing. Take your time with it. A heat gun and patients.
Its already been taken all apart and connected with LED red lights didn't work.
how do u test those wires?
Always use a fluke meter testing wires.
I do suggest checking power before removal for LED Mod.
LaRelicHunter nadndnj
Do not attempt this if someone is still having/reading in 2021. Glue on the top side is not reachable and you will just end up wasting time and potentially breaking the plastic
and y do I need to..
The rear brake lights on the earlier 2000 model CTS Cadillacs go out the neon tube ballast never last more than a few years. LED uses less amperage and last 10 times longer.
www.google.com/search?q=autozone+led+strip+lights&start=20&client=safari&sa=N&hl=en-us&biw=320&bih=460&tbs=vw:l&tbm=shop&prmd=simvn&srpd=673986001343467801&prds=epd:12209517623304822836,paur:ClkAsKraX3zHuEmbuClwPfbdfwDRyl7HZDEu_Q8uZKOhnmzOavzbcJQmcfoPofhov5UiCFeAUdBUnzkjLCrbKI9Wnbr7DGBMW06EypFenDrWov3kvI591NapqxIZAFPVH703QroNhyueYw_TioUeBmANfOhLQw,cdl:1,cid:7030768454202092200&ved=0ahUKEwja9P311OPMAhUCKCYKHWiUBgM4FBCBNgidAzAR&ei=K2U8V5qzMILQmAHoqJoY
NEXT TIME YOU DO ONE OF THESE VIDEOS WHY NOT TRY A LITTLE HARDER TO KEEP WHAT YOU WANT TO SHOW US INSIDE THE FRAME!!! HALF OF WHAT YOU TALK ABOUT YOU DO OUTSIDE OF THE CAMERA FRAME AND IS NO HELP AT ALL.
Sorry just trying to help people.
Next time I will Work on camera angles.