Best DIY Sealed Subwoofer! 18" Dayton Ultimax Flat Pack Build (New tutorial and how to!)
Vložit
- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Best DIY Sealed Subwoofer! 18" Dayton Ultimax Parts Express UM18-22 Denovo Flat Pack Build
.
***Check These Deals
▶️Samsung S24 Deals : jiles.link/5uRkK8
▶️NewEgg Laptop Deals: jiles.link/eM19vY
▶️Google Pixel Deals at Best Buy: jiles.link/BmnKLm
▶️Amazon Deals: amzn.to/3DzUY6m
#SamsungPartner
#AmazonPartner
#BestBuy Partner
#NewEggPartner
#affiliate
*** LIMITED TIME:
*** Thanks For Checking!
.
.
18" Dayton UM18-22 Sealed DIY Kit Build
---------------------------------------------------
In this video we will walk through a DIY Subwoofer build! We are using the 18" Parts Express Ultimax UM18-22 Subwoofer and the Parts Express Flat Pack enclosure / box.
The front and back are painted and the sides are laminate.
Speakon connectors were used and power is from a Behringer iNuke nu6000 amplifier.
PRODUCT LINKS:
Assembly:
▶️GSG MartySub V2.1 Flat Packs: shop.gsgad.com...
▶️Stereo Integrity SQL 15: stereointegrit...
▶️Sili-Brush - Silicone Glue Brush (1" Tip): amzn.to/3RdbwaF
▶️Tripp Lite 8 Outlet (5 Energy Saving) Surge Protector Power Strip: amzn.to/40aBRKv
▶️Titebond 1414 16 Oz Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue (1.5X per sub): amzn.to/3jdN6RA
▶️1.5 in. x 1/2 in. Fluted Dowel Pins: amzn.to/3Hj59xP
▶️Bates- Paint Scraper: amzn.to/3WLfFDS
▶️GreatNeck 8 Oz. Rubber Mallet: amzn.to/3WLxiDp
▶️Hurricane 4 Piece Wood Chisel Set: amzn.to/3wI6HN3
▶️KATA 4-PACK Folding Utility Knife: amzn.to/3DsQOOb
▶️Rust-Oleum Spray Paint, 12 oz, Ultra Matte Black: amzn.to/3j8jeGx
▶️TEKTON 36 Inch Ratchet Bar Clamp: amzn.to/3WIi1TL
▶️TEKTON 24 Inch Ratchet Bar Clamp: amzn.to/3Y43XFk
▶️Duratex: amzn.to/3P2VpwL
▶️Wagner Paint Gun: amzn.to/3E3agkv
▶️Orbital Sander: amzn.to/3P4dVF0
▶️Sand Paper: amzn.to/3E3e59n
▶️Dry Dex: amzn.to/3OZgAzL
▶️Small Screws: amzn.to/3qEQNDI
▶️Cap Head Screws: amzn.to/45AX1mY
▶️Gasket Tape: amzn.to/3OZgLep
▶️Plastic Throw: amzn.to/3qAAUhD
▶️Heat Shrink: amzn.to/45g1r2Q
▶️Heat Gun: amzn.to/45hd9dl
▶️Speakon Port: amzn.to/3QLNzcj
▶️12g Wire: amzn.to/3YLewi3
▶️Crimper: amzn.to/44hI6wV
▶️MiniDsp 2x4HD: amzn.to/45b239Q
▶️UMIC 2 Microphone: amzn.to/3E1puqc
---------------------------------------------------
Interact with us directly through CZcams Membership:
www.youtube.co...
---------------------------------------------------
.
▶️Join our Mailing list:
2aa186b7.sibfo...
*
Feature Your Theater/PC/HiFi System on CZcams or Instagram: Jiles@jiles.org
FIND DEALS:
---------------------------------------------------
Visit www.hometheate...
Join our Deals Channel:
SUPPORT US
---------------------------------------------------
Join as a member on CZcams: www.youtube.co...
Click on the "Thanks" icon in any video
PATREON: / jilesmccoy
FOLLOW US
---------------------------------------------------
LINKTREE: linktr.ee/jile...
CZcams Subscribe: www.youtube.co...
BUSINESS INQUIRIES: jiles@jilesmccoy.com
PODCAST: jilesmccoy.buz...
DISCORD: / discord
. .
***Affiliate Information:
Purchases made through some store links (Samsung, Best Buy, Amazon, and others) may provide compensation to Home Theater Fanatics LLC. Thanks for using my affliliate links to support the channel. There is no additional cost to you!
***Thanks Again!
.
![Z Review - Dayton ULTIMAX 15" SUBWOOFER [Worth the Wait? Hell Yeah!]](/img/n.gif)
I’m a professional woodworker, and an electronics hobbyist. I thought it important to clarify some things for the viewers and after reading some really bizarre comment based advice I really see the need now. First, you are not going to get good results from a roller, period. Liquid paint should be sprayed using an hvlp or even a cheap harbor freight or rockler, earlex style, finish sprayer and the results will be even and glass smooth, especially if you clear coat with lacquer or eurethane. Now when laminating you apply the sides first so the raw top edge is covered by the top piece. Just use your table saw and a zero clearance plate or throw down thin sacrificial board and elevate blade up through it. Also, when using a router you move from left to right or the blade is spinning in wrong direction to cut with the sharp surface and you will not only fight it but cause burning. Any router will have power to cut laminate but a small laminate router gives most control. Sounds like you were using the wrong bit. A proper flush trim laminate bit will have a bottom bearing that runs on reference surface and if you keep it clean it won’t mare the juxtaposed laminate and you can go overkill and use lamalube if you are extra concerned. The blade cuts flush so I’m not sure what you meant by recommending that people don’t cut full depth. Also, don’t use contact cement. Use heat activated spray glue like 3M heavy duty 90 spray glue-it comes mes in rattle can and is sold everywhere . The sun exposure will only strengthen the bond. Use a a heat gun and roll it from the center out in each direction. If the laminate ever bubbles or starts to delam in the future all you have to do is reheat it and apply pressure. Once laminated you should blend and smooth all the edges with a fine mill bastard file. Then spray citrus adhesive remover to clean off any overspray and polish to nice clean shine. Follow these steps and a diy’er can produce better results than any production factory speaker. I’m glad you took on the project of course because one surely learns the most by doing. If it weren’t for my millions of fabricating mistakes, I would know very little. However, if I can prevent some frustration in other’s projects and help guide others to higher quality outcomes then I am happy to do so. Note: ultimately your project turned out well. I hope my objective corrections/instruction doesn’t come across as negative energy as I love speaker building and the speaker building community. I was simply trying to be concise and efficient with my thoughts. Well done, sir, well done!
Those are great tips! I hope everyone checks them out and uses them in the next builds!
As another professional furniture maker, I have to disagree about painting.
Extremely good finishes can be had with a roller (or even a brush). The problem here is the guy did about everything wrong in terms of surface prep and application.
Painting furniture is a skill unto it's own, and most of us do it poorly.
I would add, do not use 400grit paper, it is far too fine and does nothing to improve the final finish. 400 grit is what you use before finer grits on top coats (think automotive paints). I usually use 220 between coats (use a soft sanding block).
It is very important to remove all the dust from the MDF before sealing and painting. Not doing so will result in the finish not drying well, and not adhering properly. Compressed air is best followed by a damp wipe. Tack clothes work, but can leave a residue. Follow after a tack cloth with a solvent that evaporates with no residue such and acetone (use the heavy duty paper towels that come in a box or big roll).
There are many forums and channels made by very good woodworkers who can give you support. They would have advised to use less glue (you used 2x what you needed, and only applied to one side), use more clamps (the clamping was woefully inadequate, big panels need lots and lots of clamps, and this box will be under tons of pressure), wiping off the glue line makes it harder to clean up (the right amount of glue will form beads that scrape off easily before they fully dry), you should *never* climb cut with a router (ever). Wolfe's Woodwork gave lots of really good advice on technique. There are plenty of people like him that would have made your life much easier.
Lastly, do not take the word of anyone in the DIY audio community about woodworking. They are in my experience the worst woodworkers on the planet (unless they also happen to be a woodworker). Places like that are where bad advice like using Tightbond mixed with water as a sealer come from. You can thin white glue with water and use it as a sealer, but you can not do it with any of the yellow glues.
Lol
joshua43214 “The Guy”. Ha! :)
FWIW, a thin layer of body filler not only seals but can also be sanded really even. Once you're happy with that a couple coats of primer (maybe 3 to be sure & wet sand it (remember it's sealed now). Then apply your favorite color. Wet sand that. Then clear, 3 or 4. Wet sand with extremely fine paper. Wax & buff. Only issue with this is you can't be in a hurry. And it might be a little costly.
Thanks for the video. I agree that 400 grit is the way to go for between coat sanding. As far as prepping the end cuts, I find "sanding sealer" to be simpler, more sand-able, and quicker drying than the glue/water mix. It's a ready-made wood working product that does a nice job.
When gluing a floating surface together ,try using some normal table salt to give surfaces some grip properties !!!! Top tip from another wood working video !!!!
Plus I agree with other poster. Use tack cloths to remove sanding dust between coats. Done many years as a lacquer ,priming , sealant spray painter for a major company and that's all are sanding team ever used !! Top results !! Oh and keep a Stanley blade and safety pin nearby while spraying ,painting , as a stray particle of sorts will decide to drop on at some point
Great vid. Thx so much for showing us your journey. One tip. Loose filling can get into the motor of your speaker. There are many ways to avoid this from not using loose filling to making sure it's dense and stuck together well. Great job 👍🏾
I really enjoyed hearing your thoughts and how you tackled each issue during the build... Used to seeing "experts" that just magically slap it together with some fancy video edits. Nice work.
Knockdowns are as simple as it gets.
Assemble everything in one shot, to get proper alignment.
18 clamps, and a brad nailer.
EasyPeasy.
I have over 50 bar clamps in various sizes, and yes I still manage to find myself not having enough.
Also, I learned from my first build that I could not get the driver out after it had been in there for a while. It fused with the paint it went up against. And I left no gap in the counter sink. The guy I sold to only wanted the driver, but he had to take the whole giant cab because we couldn't get it out. So on my 2cd build, I left enough gap in the counter-sink to be able to get a paint can opener pry tool in there. Sure enough, I blew one of my 18's when my MiniDSP HPF was accidentally disabled. I had no problem getting it out and replacing it. And yes, I did have to pry on it some to get it out. That's probably the best thing about the extra gasket you added - ability to remove it later.
Thanks for the tips!!!
I don't understand. The counter sink is already in the prebuilt kit, correct? How did you then adjust the countersink to leave a gap around the edge? Or are you talking about leaving a gap between the driver and the cabinet? If so how did you do that? With the gasket as the op did?
@Ron Bonnell I’m talking about a cabinet that I built.
I really like your laminate choice. I have a few suggestions for how to avoid a couple of issues you brought up or I observed. One, put masking tape on the finished surface to protect it from potential damage from the flush-trim router bit. Second, use masking take to keep the contact adhesive off of areas you don't want to cover (front baffle) during application. I have found the best way to work the corners of the overlapping laminate use a fine file on a 45 degree angle. You gently guide the file down the edge from end to end. You get a sharp and uniform bevel. If the edge shows a bit of undesired color you can mask off and use a detail paint applicator to dress up the edge, or possibly even a permanent marker.
Awesome! I would suggest raising it off the floor with some sort of feet; it cleans the sound up.
Thanks for the tip!
Pro tip for clamping a glue up: sprinkle some table salt on the glue. This gives the surfaces enough grit to stop it from shifting when clamping
Thanks!
On all my subs I use T-nuts inside the box so I am bolting the driver into the box. I had screws into MDF and plywood fail when the driver played at high volume.
T nuts are the best by far for mounting woofers.
I did this in the last enclosure I built, wasn't comfortable hanging heavy 18" drivers running high power off wood screws into a small lip of mdf.
If your screws were failing at high volume that means that you were buying really shity cheap screws. I currently have a 15 inverted Mount hanging off the side of my box with simple drywall screws. 2800w of perfectly fine!
@@johnjacobs3321 subjective
@@MeatPoPsiclez if you're using heavy subwoofers you're not supposed to have a thin lip of MDF. You realize you can use multiple layers on your front baffle? It doesn't have to be a single ply
I started my first build. A three way speaker with 15 inch woofers, 7 inch mids and tweeters. I am feeling so proud of myself after figuring out each step of the design. I never used power tools in my life! Going slow and enjoying the learning process as much as looking at my progress each weekend. I liked seeing the inner bracing they used on that design. I also liked yours and others comments about clamps. Good job with the build and the video!
I would you to see your build come along! Do you have a thread started somewhere?
@@JilesMcCoy No thread started. One hobby is enough at the moment. I got my box panels all cut today. 3/4 " mdf. I got a cheap $120 router and a $50 circle jig thingy. So the next step will be to practice cutting a few circles with the two router bits to get that sunk down flush mount look. Each speaker took an entire sheet of mdf. That stuff was very hard to lift off the top of my suv by myself. Cheers for now!
@@mikeables I would LOVE to see photos as things start to come together!
Just shows it isn't as simple as you think putting a box together and making it nice and tidy & square, so many steps and things to take into account, I really like that you explained your process as you went along, one thing I was expecting was a Bass port but didn't see one. I made a box myself for my 8" Dayton Audio Designer series Subwoofer and when it came to painting it I used normal Gloss paint at first and it didn't take so well it counter acted all over I was gutted so I had to get it all off and start again. In the end it turned out ok. Next time I will use laminate. Good job my man looks amazing. Now I'm replacing my 8" Designer series with the 8" Ultimax, cant wait.
Thanks! I am in the process of building a ported version now for comparison!
My high-school woodshop project was speakers, in 1981. They were MONSTERS. The 18" subs required 20cuft.
Currently my mains are Infinity SM155 and love how efficient they are.
Awesome!
we make high end cabinets at work , painted. we never use any sandpaper higher than 220. also a random orbit would have saved you a shit ton of work
Those were all hard lessons to learn!!!
I should of said this when I first commented for all of the lack in building knowledge you had the final product come out exceptionally well good job it's just the little things that make it easier and hep make that finish and fit perfect
Thanks - I hope that others can learn from my mistakes!!!! I make plenty.
I always apply a coat of glue to the edge grain, let it absorb, and apply at least one more coat.
MDF absorbs glue like a sponge.
Also, decent airless sprayers are cheap now, makes getting a smooth finish easy.
Thanks for the tips!
And a tack cloth is what's used to wipe the project in between to remove all dust
I love the look of this driver!!!!
I'm happy to see you include your son. Good Job
Both my boys are part of everything. Although they aren't always on camera.
To stop surfaces sliding when gluing and clamping, sprinkle a *little* salt here and there on the glued surface. It creates grip and crushes down when clamped.
Thanks!
Really awesome build man. Just commenting as I go along... As far as not perfectly aligned edges, if you have a router, a flush trim bit is amazing for making the transitions smooth. A $50 electric osculating sander is well worth the time/money spent my friend 😉. If I am ever using new products on a material, I always do a test panel before doing my main project. Saves material and a lot of time if it doesn't turn out right! Spraying will always give a smoother finish, and that 2000 grit is really only good for sanding a clear coat before polishing. You were good with the 400 as you found out.
Heck yea, that turned out awesome! That gloss laminate looks cool with the flat black front! Never done any laminate or veneer myself... Those Ultimax's are great woofers. I've had the 15 inch version for almost 5 years now. Just finally got an upgrade I need to start building a box for. Wasn't trying to be critical btw, just maybe throwing out some helpful hints I wish I would have known years ago. Glad to see another DIY guy making videos on this stuff. Sub'd and looking forward to more! You may like some of the stuff I have going on my channel as well. Just finished my DIY Sound Group 1299 build video tonight... See you soon on the forums... Kyle, aka Blister64
I am jealous of the 1299s! I would love to build a set of those!!!! Looking forward to that video!
Dude, nice shop! That's serious!
Thanks man ☺ I've been able to accumulate some good tools over time. Luckily the wife is pretty cool about me taking over the garage every now and then!
My prefered finish is either latex interior wall paint or minwax. If it's MDF or particle board, I would prime it with Kilz, sand it, and paint it with latex interior paint. If it's OSB, Solid Wood, or plywood, I would sand it in several steps, and stain it or just stain just the baffle and paining the back and sides.
Thanks!
Use body filler (Bondo) to fill in. It does not shrink like wood filler does nor does it run like diluted glue. Don't go cheap on your clamps, you will only get frustrated. Get some Bessey clamps. When you spray, do not do it randomly. Start the spray before you hit the work and stop the spray after you have passed the work. Use a moist sponge to wipe up glue drips and have a bucket nearby to rinse the sponge on occasion.
Thanks for the tips! Ive never tried bondo before.
Great job!! I appreciate your humility in admitting your mistakes, trial & error, etc. I’m not the handiest, but someday I’d love to build one for my media room. I’m impressed how great it looks. The laminate is definitely a great touch. 💪👏🔥👍
Thanks Russ!!
I used quilt batting from fabric and craft stores for stuffing since it's in sheets that makes it easier to secure to keep it from shifting
Thanks for the tip. That is a great cost saver!
@@JilesMcCoy yes it comes in different thicknesses and widths plus it doesn't itch or produce dust like fiberglass
I can really recommend the semi tedious step when gluing to use additional pieces of wood between the clamps to spread the clamping force. It's also really important to use something, (maybe a piece of lexan or plastic with a smooth non stick surface in between.
Thanks for the tip!
I used T nuts to mount the speaker. Very easy on the wood and no problems if you have to remove the speaker numerous times. Awesome video!
Thanks for sharing
I'd definitely recommend using a nail gun or staple gun when building a box. Glue is great but both is far better. Looks great though
Wood glue is far stronger than brads or staples and adding them will add absolutely nothing to the integrity of the enclosure. I've built enclosure in cars that do 150+ dB and yet I've never had an enclosure joint fail using only titebond II and clamps.
@@MrAtrandom Like I said the first time both is far better, and I never said not to use glue?? I've been building boxes as a side gig for over 10 years, I've never had to use clamps and I've never had a box fail. Clamps aren't always possible on custom boxes
Brad nails and staples should only be used to secure the panel before getting clamps or screws in it. They are not a proper clamping agent. If you're just slapping some glue on your butt joints and popping a few brads in, you're definitely not building your enclosures correctly. I don't give two shits if you've never had a failure, you're still half assing your work. If you're building a speaker box inside of a vehicle, you should be kregging panels together with glue. If you're enclosure is too long for your clamps, design the panel layout different or buy some large pipe clamps. You should NEVER just be using brad nails and glue without a clamping agent.
@@MrAtrandomYea man, I just slap em together. I usually use oriented strand board, 3/4 inch finish nails a dab of glue at the corners. shit bumps
@@famousmidnight Be as sarcastic as you want. You're not building enclosures properly. I guarantee that you have gaps between panels. Sure glue will fill those gaps so you may have minimal air leaks but the joint is no where near as strong as it should be. I feel bad for anybody who has paid you to build them an enclosure.
@Jiles McCoy thank looks incredible! Great job 👏
Thank you!!
Wow, 2nd recent Ultimax 18 build, I'm excited.
Love the finish, came out great! I'll have to watch it later so I can sit and watch the whole thing without skipping.
Are you planning on getting a second with that Inuke6000?
Also a fair warning, you'll probably have an impedance spike around 30hz (I think it was peaking in software at 32) that brings the impedance up to around 20Ohms, and the Inuke wont give out enough power (1,000 watts) around 32hz to reach its full potential.
I wish I could measure the impedance better, but I don't have the funds to do so atm, but I have the Inuke3KDSP and the most I saw on my Full Marty before I had to back off was around/a bit more than 200 watts @28hz and on my sub it's around 24Ohms. (16hz I got 800 watts and was scared turning it up the entire time, so much output, I tapped out early lol)
Used a watt meter and Multimeter to see the A/C voltage from the amp.
Yep. Good subwoofer. The Uttimax 15 is a fine performer in a sealed enclosure too.
Very cool. I need some smaller units for the front of my room.
You must cut your laminate much closer to proper size before routing. A .25 inch over hang is perfect and use a small 30 dollar laminate router they sell bits that are perfect you can also use painters tape to hold you off your finished laminate just enough not to scar
Just use Diablo brand router bits, they have lifetime warranties. If it ever dulls, breaks, or wears out, return it and you get a new one. That's why they're like twice the normal price.
use a high quality file on the edges. It'll give it a nice bevel.
The low notes at the end are approx. 17hz.
JDM World what audio are you playing at the end?
Congratulations on the awesome build. I have been watching your builds for a couple of months now.
I am super inspired to take up this build as my first build. Before that have three questions for you.
1. With your experience do you think 18" Dayton Ultimax can match up SVS PB 3000? Or do you recommend 18'' ported build kit for that with 18" Dayton Ultimax?
2. How low does this sealed build go? I was looking to hit 15Hz.
3. Can you publish any measured graphs out of the build?
Appreciate any comment.
1) Yes. 2) I think I posted a measurement somewhere for this? This was one of my very first builds though, so maybe not. 3) I don't have any of those details now. This was years ago.
Soldering is the best contact ...
Good advice!
Little helper deserved a mentioned I thought ..thanks for sharing 👍🏾
No problem 👍
A small pinch of very fine sand will help to stop things sliding around when glued and clamped up.
Thanks!
That's a nice laminate choice, we use that Madagascar quite often at work, ebony ribbonwood is an awesome color too. Next time get a 7° laminate bit and set it to where you leave extra and then file the rest clean and smooth, razor knife doesn't do too well cutting that formica backing
This is excellent advice! Where were you before? I will use this next time for sure.
Wow found your video and realized I am using the same laminate as you. Starting the build this week.
I’d love to see photos!
Size and power is nothing without control. You need servo or at least a DSP for a sealed subwoofer if it's not comicly large. Love the build with the strays.
I'd like to try the Rythmik servo stuff!
A nice easy quick finish is flat black paint, after it dries paint on semi gloss polyurethane. Looks like a piano finish. No sanding needed.
Thanks!
D&D books and good audio, I'm here for that.
Me too!
I’ve thought about a d.i.y sub build for a long time. This video has just convinced me too follow up and maybe attempt my own now. Great build. To finish your build, may I suggest the sound path isolation system from svs. Looks great man, can’t wait for a demo👍🏻👍🏻
What amp are you using to power it, ?how much power does the Dayton driver need?
@@Test-Pilot1194 I am using an iNuke 6000. The sub seems to handle the power from the amp without issue.
JDM World excellent. I contacted the company in the US that dispatched them, and they said I would be liable for import and local delivery fees on top of the actual purchase price, this end. So I scrapped the idea. Il search for someone more local that do huge flat packs incl drivers, However long that takes😂😂.
It's called a tack rag.
Used for cleaning dirt and grim off of what your fixing to paint. Crystal brand is the best.
Thanks for sharing
First law of the universe: you NEVER have enough clamps. Looks like a nice build. The wires looked a bit thin to me. Also was unable to judge if the demo was musical. Definitely not a sine wave output. What was the input? Disarmingly honest build video. Kudos to you.
It was my first!
I want to hear it with the whole system running.
Schon ein heftiges Teil ! werde mir aus so einen bestellen,Gehäuse hab ich schon ein Gutes mit etwas mehr Volumen aber auch Teilweise bis zu 44 mm Wandstärke.Sollte dann auch heftig rocken.Die SPA 1000 habe ich schon länger,hat mir schon einige 18 Zöller verbraten !
I think you did a great job and your video was the best, totally very well explained
Thanks!
The Definitive Technology Towers have built-in active subwoofers.
Add this super sub and you are officially a "Bassaholic"!
Congratulations!
I am currently pursuing the same title...
You will get there for sure!
Nice! I plan to do a mini version similar sealed box with a 12". Its just for my little office/gaming setup to compliment my pair of Overnight Sensation bookshelf speakers (which are f-ing amazing for their size!). it will replace 2 cheap junk 8" ported units so i'm hoping for clean linear bass when i'm done...
I'd love to see a photo when done.
Nice video, thanks. If you don’t mind a helpful hint, you are using the router wrong. Never push it away from you. Always pull it toward you (assuming the work is on your left.) That way the cutter rotates into the wood/laminate and not away from it. This will help splitting or tearing the work.
Yeah, that video is a good example of "if I can do something like this then anyone can". I didn't even lose a finger.
Really coll video.
Really love Dayton speakers (I used them in my home audio set up), but for me living in there UK there's too many question marks over build quality of the subs. I've read too many bad review on PE
Your roller leaves the texture brother zinzer is good but oil base kilz and laquor is oil base as well takes 24 hrs usually between coats
Great info on build. I wish you would have commented on the sound quality a bit.
Sounds great!
Hey man, just a quick tip from a woodworker: Use less glue man, a lot of glue just not necessary.
You can use a bit of table salt sprinkled on the glue to prevent the floating you're talking about in the video
Could I bother you to come to my house and help organize? 😂 Good work.
You need a router to smooth the edges.... Later, that is some nice shiny laminate, great work :-)
@@nono-oy3co Yes Yes :-) He has a router so I am sure he figured it out. Are working on anything? Share :-)
Hi, you did not use any nails or screws to hold the box wooden panels together? only glue would last the thump of Sub? makes me kinda nervous
Most builders only use glue. Its stronger than the wood it holds together.
Contact cement goes on both surfaces. You didn’t show it so did you glue the laminate too?
Yes, cement on both sides, let dry till tacky, and then go time!
I was going to get the ultimax but the representative, Tim, said the reference HF has better sound quality. Love the look of the ultimax though.
Do they dig as deep?
i have the dayton reference HF 15'' in 4cu.ft sealed and i love it, its goes deep an plays loud but the best part sounds amazing its fast,accurate blends well with any speakers i've had, i honestly love it
@@hiviman 4cuft sealed??? BULLSHIT! Did you not see how small the sealed box was for this 18? A 15 in a 4 cubic foot box is complete bullshit. My 15 that would make the 18 in this video look small is in a 4.5 cuft ported box. Ported boxes are exponentially larger than sealed enclosures. Put a port on your box and I guarantee you it'll light that sub up! An enclosure that large that sealed is not a good idea.
Great job. One-thing only I wouldn't use this type of wet glue with MDF wood.
I think I might be coming over to your side. I like it a little runny but the titebond 3 might be too runny.
Just a heads up. next time you want to glue two flat pieces of wood together, try putting a little table salt on top of the glue, this holds the wood from moving when you are clamping it,
Good tip!
Good job
Thanks
What size allen head wood screw? You don't mention. Dayton Audio video doesn't mention either.
Hello. I'm sorry, I don't understand English. Very interesting video. Thank you. Please help. What plastic you glued to. What's it called? What glue was glued to?
It was laminate using contact cement.
I would of preferred a ported box over sealed, im assuming your wanting tighter bass??
Check out my other video!!!!
Tighter bass doesn't make any sense. I don't believe there's such a thing. 40 Hertz tone will be the same from a ported and a sealed box. Unless you're talking about the quarter wavelength of sound; due to the port delay, which is virtually unnoticeable for a normal person. Either way 40 Hertz is 40 Hertz regardless of the enclosure design.
Love the Ultimax, thinking about adding a 12" to my car.
Apply gloss with brush then use fine sandpaper an buff it out
Thanks!
I got 10" (Jaycar) woofers in sealed boxes for my 4" FR drivers (just woofers, not subs). The best bass I heard. I had 6" woofers before (vented). But the large woofers sealed sound so much better (same brand woofers).
Very nice!
@@JilesMcCoy Thanks. A song demo of them: czcams.com/video/e_5cxyqwbRg/video.html
Hi, is it good to use 4th order bandpass enclosure for home theater sub. Please reply
It can work fine if the design is good.
good work dude.. A+ for effort lols.. im new to woodwork as well, learning from the tubes as well... lol got the kiddo helping out too XD
Never can have enough clamps.
Truth!
Very nice! Get's me even mor excited to finish my 2way speaker's!
Do it!!!!
@@JilesMcCoy Of course!
You did a great job, especially figuring it out as you went. Next one will be even better.
Thanks!
@@JilesMcCoy feel like alot of people were overly critical, when the project turned out great, also they were critiquing to their own personal even though it's your build. Anyway, I'm really interested in trying this technique I read about giving wood a deep almost candy paint job, through a bunch on painting/ wet sanding/ re spraying clear coats.
@@Gcrilla I always look for the best in each comment. I am ok with criticism too. I am building a huge 21" monster right now!
@@JilesMcCoy I'm super jealous man, honestly. Im still in the planning and research phase, which speaker is the 21"?
@@Gcrilla This one in the GSG dev kit: www.eminence.com/speakers/speaker-detail/?model=NSW6021_6
Thank you very much for sharing .i love you videos and bright comments . about this sealed unit , i have tried to loom for its measurements and haven't found any .can you please direct me to the relevant link ? do you apply and HPF to the diver via MINIDSP ? any PEQ ? i am not referring to in room tuning ,i wonder about the basic design prior to in room calibration .
many thanks
Dan
You can find the details on the parts express website. I don’t use a HPF on sealed boxes. PEQ is really room dependent... but I always end up using some to pull down peaks.
@@JilesMcCoy Thank you for your quick response. what I meant : do you have the measurements of the final results of your sealed sub. I was trying to look for it at your channel, but did not locate it.many thanks
Nice build. Thanks for sharing. Excuse my knowledge on the subject, since I did not see you put a Amplifier plate on this, would you not need to make this as active subwoofer considering the size. From what I see you build a passive unit. For 18" isn't that recommended?
You can go either way. Most folks will use an external amplifier that is easier to change or repair if a change is needed.
NL4MP, did you use the 4 pole or 2 pole. Also for the cable was it a 2 pole or 4 pole. You don't zoom in on the part so difficult to see the setup.
I used 2 poles/2 lead wire.
What amp are you using to drive it? Looks like it could take quite a bit more.
1 NYC DJ Behringer NU6000. I have this exact box up for sale now too :)
The only real issue that I saw was when you put the screws in that hold the sub in. Never tighten in a direct path around an object, especially if it’s a circular object like a speakers. This can and usually does cause a ripple effect as you tighten each subsequent screw which in turn can/will warp whatever is being fastened down. To avoid warpage always tighten in a star pattern. Basically tighten the first screw so it almost contacts the surface of the object being tightened then the next screw will go on the opposite side of the object the third will go to the right/left of the first screw so on and so forth. After your last screw is put in you will just repeat the process tightening each screw a bit more in the same pattern until they are all set to the prescribed tightness. It sounds complicated but it’s absolutely not. Google is your friend. Remember that always.
Thanks for the pro tip Eric!
That's why I use cast steel baskets that would break the MDF before it warped the metal😂 TEAM SUNDOWN
Ghh
Is an amp installed in the back? If so, which amp did you buy?
I used a Sinbosen fp10000q
Using a crown xls 1002 to power mine. I don’t know how to use a speakon connector so I plan to just run the wire through the cabinet and seal it up with caulk. Will that work?
It will work. But I don’t like it ;) Just use banana plugs or something.
Hello sir, nice tutorial. I have question, is the cable and all the plug included ?
You buy everything a la carte on a DIY.
The next time you build a speaker or subwoofer go to a fabric shop and by the polyester battingthat they use in quilts and pillows it's a lot cheaper than the stuff designed for speakers but it's the same thing
Justin S. Thanks for the tip!
@@JilesMcCoy you're welcome I just bought a new some last week for a set of small bookshelf speakers I only spent $5 for enough for both speakers
What was that glue you were using on the speakon connector internally
Just stumbled on your vid. I am surprised that with a user id JDM world, you didn't use high build automotive spray primer and automotive paint. Don't spray paint on a windy day outside. Vinyl wrap is good option too.
Ye Cheng Lin Thanks for checking it out. I absolutely want to figure out how to do high gloss automotive finishes. I need a paint booth in my garage.
As an aside JDM are my initials... I'm not into the Japanese Motorsports thing.
The max wattage is 2000w? and you are using a 2x3000w 4ohm amp, How much Power of the amp are you using?
They overstate the output on the amp quite a bit. I imagine its putting out closer to 2000 than 3000. I can run at full gain without any issues. But I typically set at 3/4 and adjust with the AVR from there.
Fantastic job thanks, how does it compare price wise vs a already purpose built subwoofer comparable to your kit ? Can you give a price comparison of already built unit with the same specs as yours ? Thanks again.
Hi - I got the box + woofer from Parts Express for 399. I bought the amp I use used for 150 bucks. Its an older iNuke 6000. A miniDSP can be had for 100 bucks. Add in 100 bucks for cables and paint and screws.... so you are at 750 bucks. You can get a SVS PB 2000 for about this price. I would absolutely go the DIY route. If you start looking at Marty ported boxes (which are marginally more expensive... or more time maybe) you will get even more return on investment. I am working on a video about that path now.
Painting will also give a more classy result !! More so if you use primer then solid colours like white ,or cherry blossom etc !! Comes out great on MDF ,Give it a go some time , ugh tacky plastic looking this way. Well each to their own I suppose
There are many ways to finish! The great thing about DIY is you can make it look the way you want it to.
@@JilesMcCoy true , I am more into the rustic look , stained and clear varnish ... got lots of photos of the TV unit , coffee table and also plate rack I made , will need to compile them so can upload to youtube
@@JilesMcCoy it's just from experience that when formica (the material you used ,I believe) breaks it is a nightmare to replace/repair. Though it'll give you another project to do
Id love to see your stuff!
Its laminate. I don't think you could break it. It would take power tools! Cutting through with a razor knife was a nightmare.
Amazing work and very impressive sample in the end of the video. It’s kind of mesmerising. Can u tell me were I find these sound samples. Best regards.
Should find them on CZcams!
any reason why you can't use 18g brad nails to help with keeping things square and tight?
None.
Congrats on the build, and thanks for a very informative video 👏
Thanks!
Nice job! Laminate looks good.
Donna Clarke Thanks!
Hi. I liked the final look. What laminate did you use? Can you put the link? Tnx
Beautiful sub box!! Where did you get the laminate and what are you powering it with?
The laminate is from Wilson Art, Madagascar. I think I have a link below for it. Power came from lots of amps: crown, behringer, and most recently a sinbosen fp10000q.
Very nice video, and it has nudged me more towards buying a pair of these.... :)
You talked about how the box didn't line perfectly up. Do you think there was something you could have done better, or was it not perfect from the manufacture, or was it not worth worrying about?
It was all me. The cut of the boards was spot on. When you ratchet down the clamps things shift around a little and I needed to spend more time checking alignment. I'll know better for next time. With some filler and a circular sander the edges should completely disappear.
From a wood worker, take the rubber stops off of the hf clamps
Also I make a clamp attachment for 90 degree corners with 3d printer. I can probably hook you up with some
Thats awesome!
What is the amp watt on it and have u meausered how low it goes in the frequence then?.
If you browse through my videos there is one where I do the measurements!
Hello Good sir. Thank you SO MUCH for doing all these videos. You've obviously created many subs since this one. I just ordered my Sealed flatpack from DIYSOundGroup. I've watched this video several times. Any things you would do differently now that you didn't do in this build? Sounds like one of the biggest changes is your use of a Spray Hopper for the paint. Any other great words of wisdom for this build? Keep the awesome content coming!
Nakean Wickliff Big changes over time: Titebond Ii, spray grade Duratex in a hopper fun, more clamps, being more careful when tightening down the screws on the driver, using filler and sanding all sides of the box, using an electric sander!
@@JilesMcCoy Could you say just a bit more about filler and sanding? Thank you so much for your response. It's funny I just moved and my wifes father is quite the handyman. I was taken back by how many times he reached for an electric driver/drill (almost never) Everything was hand tightened. Made me feel lazy but then also made me realize how many less screw heads you strip, how less likely you were to over tighten etc. Slow, steady and deliberate.
Filler and sanding is key for me. Its the only way I can get smooth joints that look good when painted.