I have been working on cars for many years, all sorts as a keen amateur but have only recently purchased my first RV8 in the shape of a TVR Chimaera 400. This chanel is great...so much helpful information. While lockdown is on I'm currently changing my camshaft...keep the videos clips coming, great stuff...
I bought three of their amp boxes one for each car they're really doing a great job with the summer temperatures we get here in Riyadh Saudi Arabia above 140F° now tested on one car for a year.
In doing a remap of the ECU on P38, do you recommend increasing the fuel octane as well? I normally run 87 AKI (92 RON) on my P38 4.0, and the lower octane has only cost me mid range power. MPG has remained the same as when I used to run 93 AKI (98 RON). But now that my Range Rover is relegated to weekend trips to the lake, I wouldn’t mind some more power. I’m also thinking of installing a new stainless steel exhaust to make it sound nicer.
Hi 2 questions for you? I have a 1973 classic RR, as built except it now runs a twin spark Mallory distributor, something RPI used to recommend. Q. Is it worth upgrading to electronic ignition which has the ability for longer dwell time? Or a later Lucas distributor. Q2. It has been suggested to put a fuel regulator prior to the Zenth carbs set at 2-3 psi. That seems low to me and in fairness I have not had a problem with pressure in the carbs to date? Vehicle has travelled only 126000 km what are the problems if any due to lack of use? I’m sure I’m not alone only taking it out maybe twice a month for a good run! Sorry that’s 3 questions. Thx in advance and all of you at RPI take care in these uncertain times.
Hi, We have never run a regulator to twin carbs so unless you are having issues where the float bowls are flooding and have confirmed that they are functioning correctly or that you have a higher pressure pump I dont see the need for a regulator. Yes we used to supply the dual point as they were a great package for someone running carb that had no dizzy at all and needed something cost effective that worked well. It will still work well as long as it is matched to the right parts however we have had several customers upgrade to our full electronic ignition kit in our shop and have loved the results. In terms of leaving the engine / car to sit, all the normal things to worry about so probably better to try and get out in it for a drive every couple of weeks.
I've got an honest question.....and it's not intended to be any sort of trick question....why has nobody ever done a really good aftermarket cylinder head for the RV8? I know there are options available but when compared with what is available off the shelf for the SBF or SBC which are really simple bolt on power that work without any need for additional porting like the RV8 aftermarket options. There are plenty of modern designs which could be readily copied (Chevy LS for example) & made to fit the RV8 block architecture. It's ports & chamber with the appropriate cooling arrangement with some off the shelf valvegear. The later crossbolted bottom end is a pretty stout bit of kit & has a reasonable oiling system so could easily hold together with some decent heads. The fact that people spend a fair bit of time & money trying to make standard head castings work even at high power outputs tells the story really. Just seems like a missed opportunity to me. Ps - I understand that it is not necessary for all applications but those wanting say more than 300-330bhp it would start to make sense, at least to me anyway.
Hi, Thanks for the question. I think our next video that is dedicated to cylinder heads will cover this and I will include your question in this as well.
V8d stage 4 heads will support 350 to 360 hp depending of intake and exhaust on a 5+ liter engine. For 400 and more the wildcat heads are needed. They are rare and expensive but they are available
Nice Ford Popular. I’ve got a 3.9 in my London Taxi; it’s on my channel. It was an injection but because I didn’t have an ECU and because I love the look of them, I have put a pair of SU carbs on. So the camshaft is the standard one designed for injection set up. What cam would you recommend that gives more power but still keeps it ticking over nice and not too lumpy?
If your sticking with carbs then the Piper 270 if you feel you may go for EFi again someday then the Kent H180. We can supply them both as kits and also detail other parts that should be checked at the same time - video coming soon on this.
Hi guys, thanks for the vids and great advice. I have a Holley 350 carburetor on my 3.5 litre. what do you think? I'd like to go electronic egnition next. such great revy engines 😁👍🏼
Yes ignition is a great place to start. Then as per the video inspect the camshaft if its condition is unknown and if / when you start struggling with the Holley carb (some get on with it, many dont) let us know and we will pre jet a Edelbrock for you (in exchange for some pennies of course) for a simple change over.
In the head video can you cover bolting a later head on to earlier blocks, will it yield much performance or is it better to rework what is already fitted, I am interested in sd1 3.5 as i am restoring one at the moment you can watch the progress over on my channel regards Danny
Hi, Its likely simply a bad setup or a poor camshaft choice causing low intake vacuum at idle. This means the air does not suspend the fuel particles correctly and therefor the air / fuel mix does not burn nicely. As rpm increases the air speed in the intake increases and the fuel then gets transported to the combustion chamber and mixed nicely with the air so the burn is better.
Lots have removed this and fitted the Edelbrock carb for simplicity. Others have gone EFI the better way with multi port injection rather than the half way house of a carb / injection setup. There are always many ways to get to the end result and it depends on the end goal that you want as to what the right choice is for yourself.
@@RPIEngineering yes i agree multi port injection is the best but not everyone wants to go down that road ...but there many options like u say.... cheers on the video
Not yet, been run off our feet with work and struggling to find time to video. Also waiting for a time when we have all head options side by side to show. All planets should align at some point though and the head video is still on out list of videos to make.
Amazing information thank you for the video. Any ready upgrade package is available for 3.9 rrc automatic can purchase plug and play. Waiting your reply ASAP. Best regards,
@@ChrisTheAlmighty Then upgrading to the 4.6 air flow meter is a good upgrade in itself however does require a ECU remap so that the new data from the air flow meter is interpreted correctly. If you send an email through to info@v8engines.com we can quote you for what is needed.
For maximum performance on wide open throttle (circuit racing, drag racing etc) yes they flow more air. However for drivability and maximum torque and efficiency where it matters to a lot if not all road cars with some track day use then there are better options. Add to that complexities of install with the Wildcat head and its clear to see why it does not suit 99% of our customer base. But for sure has a place in the Rover V8 world and is great to be able to achieve more flow when desired and budgets / engine design are not confined.
Hugely subjective to engine condition / setup, vehicle, miles driven and driving style. A well serviced V8 engine in a light weight 2 wheel drive car can do over 30MPG (anything from 3.5 to 4.6 can achieve this) however put a worn engine in a heavy 4x4 with additional weight with roof rack, large tyres driver with a heavy foot and only doing 10 miles journeys and you can guess the result there!!!
@@RPIEngineering what do you think i could get from a 1 ton 2wd with a 5 speed manual transmission? Considering to put a 3,5 Rover v8 in a Volvo PV, im thinking of maybe something between 220-240hp if thats easy to get
@@samegutten 220 to 240 would be quite a racy 3.5 litre engine. A good 3.5 with stage 3 heads and 285 cam is normally around 200 bhp (although its been a while since we have dynoed one) dont get caught in the trap of thinking smaller capacity is better MPG it is often not the case. A 3.9 litre engine built to Stage 3 will see 220 bhp maybe a more with the right cam but also it depends on how you want the engine to respond and drive. If your happy substituting bottom end smoothness and torque for top end bhp then thats fine but keep it in mind for the build. In terms of MPG your in a light weight car and 2 wheel drive so depending on your driving style, engine conditon / build etc you'll be looking at 20 to 30 MPG or better.
200hp is going to be more than enough actually. This is not going to be a racecar, more a cruising car that can maintain cruising a highways etc around Europe
@@samegutten Yep, Just keep in mind though that building a 3.5 with 200 bhp could detract from torque and smoothness down the bottom end. A nice 3.9 / 4.0 build with mid range cam and head work would be around 200 bhp and a much nicer tourer.
Yes our Stage 1 or Stage 3 heads would make a difference but keep it camm'ed for bottom to mid range torque. We will cover more on heads in our next What Wednesday - That's not a Wednesday video though
@@joerowland7350 As far as I am aware Edelbrock dont but there are intakes out there for 4 pairs of down drought and even side draught webers however they are not a product that we support.
@@RPIEngineering ok thank you sir For information n the quick reply Down draft is wut I really want I live the USA so not a lot Off support here for this motors
In most cases the ignition systems are generally compromised by old components etc and as we say at the beginning of the video its about getting the best from the engine in terms of cost effective upgrades to get the best overall outcome. For sure every engine is different, every start point of that engine, every end result wanted and every budget available. In general the ignition system upgrades instantly offers better starting, smoother running, better throttle response, more torque and cleaner emissions. However if your all about bhp etc then sure porting the heads, getting a better intake setup and forget the spark and just work with what you have I am sure will give you gains which you would be happy with. In terms of exhausts most will handle the above but shinny large primary pipes are what most want although often its not needed.
@@RPIEngineering it would be interesting to see what a fully built rover motor could do. Stroker crank, roller tappers/rockers, 10.0:1 pistons and ported heads, custom headers and 2-3" Dia exhaust would do
@@cromBumny I'd love the time to build all options etc and many more that are inside my head as future plans etc however its not always feasible or required.
Hmm, some nonsense being dished out in this video, yes the standard ignition system is not all that great but the improvements being talked about are not really down to a bigger spark, as long as the spark as enough duration and energy to ignite the fuel then that's it, it is not going to increase the flame speed at all. The issue with any of the standard Rover systems (Lucas) is that they simply start to 'drop sparks' at high RPM, in other words random cylinders fail to burn the mixture at all as the revs go over 4k RPM. This will obviously cause a loss in performance. Rover got away with this sort of thing because for 99% of the time the engine is lugging around at 2.5k RPM. I have removed all of the guts out of a standard Lucas dizzy, I then built a system into it that triggers an MSD ignition system (6AL-2) which you can program in an advance curve using software provided. Also via a MAP system you can program in a 'vac-advance' curve. All great features although the main reason I went for an MSD system is that it has a retard function for when you inject Nitrous Oxide. With regards to Edelbrock 500 carbs, they are pretty good but nobody that I've met knows how to set them up properly. I have learnt how to set them up and found out that there is never a stock needle that will get you the correct cruise mixture AND the correct acceleration (whilst only on the primaries mixture. (Air Fuel Ratio). I always end up getting the cruise mixture right but then i have to modify the thin part of the needle to get the acceleration AFR right. (I have made a gizzmo to hold the needles in my lathe to help with this). The Edlebrock charts are also full of errors! I use an XL spread sheet to work out the flow areas that any needle and jet combo will produce. The calibration kit for the 500 is pretty useless too, there are a couple of jets and one set of needles that are useful, but that's about all. The 500 carb does not like G-force much either, you can get a rich bog if you brake hard and cornering hard can cause issues, there are some tricks to help with all of this. The straight leg booster on the primaries is not great, the newer carb uses annual boosters but they have been designed badly, I make my own. The last engine I built was a 4.6, its in a reasonable state of tune (road tune, not race tune) but still pulls top gear from around 1400 RPM, its running a 500 carb, it made 315 BHP @ 5500 RPM. Its in a Rover SD1.
Thank you. Yes we invested in some remote microphones later on that have helped with the Audio but its still not perfect. Good job its V8 engines we concentrate on lol
I have been working on cars for many years, all sorts as a keen amateur but have only recently purchased my first RV8 in the shape of a TVR Chimaera 400. This chanel is great...so much helpful information. While lockdown is on I'm currently changing my camshaft...keep the videos clips coming, great stuff...
TVR Chimaera 500 ftw
A pair of SU's tweeked as per David Vizards instructions are far better than any four barrel Holley / Edlebrock
I bought three of their amp boxes one for each car they're really doing a great job with the summer temperatures we get here in Riyadh Saudi Arabia above 140F° now tested on one car for a year.
Just finished my LT77 rebuild was about finish my 3.9, this video helped me make a few decisions at that point I needed too. Cheers!
Really enjoy these RPI videos from a technical perspective even though i don't own one of these lovely engines.
Cheers guys - great answer
great video
In doing a remap of the ECU on P38, do you recommend increasing the fuel octane as well? I normally run 87 AKI (92 RON) on my P38 4.0, and the lower octane has only cost me mid range power. MPG has remained the same as when I used to run 93 AKI (98 RON).
But now that my Range Rover is relegated to weekend trips to the lake, I wouldn’t mind some more power. I’m also thinking of installing a new stainless steel exhaust to make it sound nicer.
Hi 2 questions for you? I have a 1973 classic RR, as built except it now runs a twin spark Mallory distributor, something RPI used to recommend. Q. Is it worth upgrading to electronic ignition which has the ability for longer dwell time? Or a later Lucas distributor.
Q2. It has been suggested to put a fuel regulator prior to the Zenth carbs set at 2-3 psi. That seems low to me and in fairness I have not had a problem with pressure in the carbs to date?
Vehicle has travelled only 126000 km what are the problems if any due to lack of use? I’m sure I’m not alone only taking it out maybe twice a month for a good run! Sorry that’s 3 questions.
Thx in advance and all of you at RPI take care in these uncertain times.
Hi,
We have never run a regulator to twin carbs so unless you are having issues where the float bowls are flooding and have confirmed that they are functioning correctly or that you have a higher pressure pump I dont see the need for a regulator. Yes we used to supply the dual point as they were a great package for someone running carb that had no dizzy at all and needed something cost effective that worked well. It will still work well as long as it is matched to the right parts however we have had several customers upgrade to our full electronic ignition kit in our shop and have loved the results. In terms of leaving the engine / car to sit, all the normal things to worry about so probably better to try and get out in it for a drive every couple of weeks.
Hey guys, I really enjoyed that.👍
All the TVR stuff.
But top three.......custom camshaft and kit, port the heads, induction.
I've got an honest question.....and it's not intended to be any sort of trick question....why has nobody ever done a really good aftermarket cylinder head for the RV8? I know there are options available but when compared with what is available off the shelf for the SBF or SBC which are really simple bolt on power that work without any need for additional porting like the RV8 aftermarket options. There are plenty of modern designs which could be readily copied (Chevy LS for example) & made to fit the RV8 block architecture. It's ports & chamber with the appropriate cooling arrangement with some off the shelf valvegear. The later crossbolted bottom end is a pretty stout bit of kit & has a reasonable oiling system so could easily hold together with some decent heads. The fact that people spend a fair bit of time & money trying to make standard head castings work even at high power outputs tells the story really. Just seems like a missed opportunity to me. Ps - I understand that it is not necessary for all applications but those wanting say more than 300-330bhp it would start to make sense, at least to me anyway.
Hi, Thanks for the question. I think our next video that is dedicated to cylinder heads will cover this and I will include your question in this as well.
V8d stage 4 heads will support 350 to 360 hp depending of intake and exhaust on a 5+ liter engine. For 400 and more the wildcat heads are needed. They are rare and expensive but they are available
One of my dream cars is a Mk2 Triumph Stag Hardtop, and the engine I’d swap in it would probably be a 3.5 Rover V8.
235k on my 4.6. Might be needing a camshaft
Nice Ford Popular. I’ve got a 3.9 in my London Taxi; it’s on my channel. It was an injection but because I didn’t have an ECU and because I love the look of them, I have put a pair of SU carbs on. So the camshaft is the standard one designed for injection set up. What cam would you recommend that gives more power but still keeps it ticking over nice and not too lumpy?
If your sticking with carbs then the Piper 270 if you feel you may go for EFi again someday then the Kent H180. We can supply them both as kits and also detail other parts that should be checked at the same time - video coming soon on this.
@@RPIEngineering CHEERS!
Hi guys, thanks for the vids and great advice. I have a Holley 350 carburetor on my 3.5 litre. what do you think?
I'd like to go electronic egnition next.
such great revy engines 😁👍🏼
Yes ignition is a great place to start. Then as per the video inspect the camshaft if its condition is unknown and if / when you start struggling with the Holley carb (some get on with it, many dont) let us know and we will pre jet a Edelbrock for you (in exchange for some pennies of course) for a simple change over.
4 branch manifolds.
In the head video can you cover bolting a later head on to earlier blocks, will it yield much performance or is it better to rework what is already fitted, I am interested in sd1 3.5 as i am restoring one at the moment you can watch the progress over on my channel regards Danny
Hi Danny,
Yes this will be covered.
@@RPIEngineering i will keep a look out for it
good videos....I've seen cars with better camshafts and the cold start and tick over are rubbish....any ideas?
Hi, Its likely simply a bad setup or a poor camshaft choice causing low intake vacuum at idle. This means the air does not suspend the fuel particles correctly and therefor the air / fuel mix does not burn nicely. As rpm increases the air speed in the intake increases and the fuel then gets transported to the combustion chamber and mixed nicely with the air so the burn is better.
Holley snipper..... are the way to go
Lots have removed this and fitted the Edelbrock carb for simplicity. Others have gone EFI the better way with multi port injection rather than the half way house of a carb / injection setup. There are always many ways to get to the end result and it depends on the end goal that you want as to what the right choice is for yourself.
@@RPIEngineering yes i agree multi port injection is the best but not everyone wants to go down that road ...but there many options like u say.... cheers on the video
Great video ✅
Thank you
Great video. Did you do one on cylinder heads?
Not yet, been run off our feet with work and struggling to find time to video. Also waiting for a time when we have all head options side by side to show. All planets should align at some point though and the head video is still on out list of videos to make.
Lovely RRC Ian
We are lucky to get incredibly nice vehicles in
Amazing information thank you for the video.
Any ready upgrade package is available for 3.9 rrc automatic can purchase plug and play.
Waiting your reply ASAP.
Best regards,
Hi,
Best to email us on info@v8engines.com so that we can send you information and links.
@@RPIEngineering thank you for your quick reply and interest and patience. I will do. Best regards,
Is the 4.0 to 4.6 MAF sensor upgrade plug and play or does it require the remap? (4.0L Thor engine)
Hi, Is it a Discovery 2 or a P38 Range Rover that you have?
@@RPIEngineering it's a Disco 2 model
@@ChrisTheAlmighty Then upgrading to the 4.6 air flow meter is a good upgrade in itself however does require a ECU remap so that the new data from the air flow meter is interpreted correctly. If you send an email through to info@v8engines.com we can quote you for what is needed.
sensible man, 'feet on the ground' ... pie in the sky tuning is usually just a waste of money on a daily driver,
So hard to listen too and watch, conversation seems to take ages to go anywhere
wildcat heads are the best performance improvement on a TVR Rover v8....imo
For maximum performance on wide open throttle (circuit racing, drag racing etc) yes they flow more air. However for drivability and maximum torque and efficiency where it matters to a lot if not all road cars with some track day use then there are better options. Add to that complexities of install with the Wildcat head and its clear to see why it does not suit 99% of our customer base. But for sure has a place in the Rover V8 world and is great to be able to achieve more flow when desired and budgets / engine design are not confined.
Which is the better one out of three I can give you more top and talk
What is the lowest miles pr gallon/litre pr KM have you guys gotten out of a 3.5 V8? and what car was it
Hugely subjective to engine condition / setup, vehicle, miles driven and driving style. A well serviced V8 engine in a light weight 2 wheel drive car can do over 30MPG (anything from 3.5 to 4.6 can achieve this) however put a worn engine in a heavy 4x4 with additional weight with roof rack, large tyres driver with a heavy foot and only doing 10 miles journeys and you can guess the result there!!!
@@RPIEngineering what do you think i could get from a 1 ton 2wd with a 5 speed manual transmission? Considering to put a 3,5 Rover v8 in a Volvo PV, im thinking of maybe something between 220-240hp if thats easy to get
@@samegutten 220 to 240 would be quite a racy 3.5 litre engine. A good 3.5 with stage 3 heads and 285 cam is normally around 200 bhp (although its been a while since we have dynoed one) dont get caught in the trap of thinking smaller capacity is better MPG it is often not the case. A 3.9 litre engine built to Stage 3 will see 220 bhp maybe a more with the right cam but also it depends on how you want the engine to respond and drive. If your happy substituting bottom end smoothness and torque for top end bhp then thats fine but keep it in mind for the build.
In terms of MPG your in a light weight car and 2 wheel drive so depending on your driving style, engine conditon / build etc you'll be looking at 20 to 30 MPG or better.
200hp is going to be more than enough actually.
This is not going to be a racecar, more a cruising car that can maintain cruising a highways etc around Europe
@@samegutten Yep, Just keep in mind though that building a 3.5 with 200 bhp could detract from torque and smoothness down the bottom end. A nice 3.9 / 4.0 build with mid range cam and head work would be around 200 bhp and a much nicer tourer.
Hi. Will a Rochester 4 jet fit onto a Rover V8 3500 please ?
Sorry I have not seen one before so can not comment if the footprint of the Rochester is the same as the Edelbrock.
These engines have a flat plane cams. You can't use high spec modern oil. Must have zinc.
On a 3.5 is it worth upgrading cylinder heads (torque cam already done), or is it not worth it for a 3.5 v8 in a land rover?
Yes our Stage 1 or Stage 3 heads would make a difference but keep it camm'ed for bottom to mid range torque. We will cover more on heads in our next What Wednesday - That's not a Wednesday video though
Click for the pop
Stayed for the quality information,and I don't own a rover engine 👍
Thank you very much for the comment.
any advice on where to find an intake manifold to suit the Edelbrock carburetor? not seeing many about
There all on back order at this moment in time. Our advice is to order one with a deposit to secure it.
@@RPIEngineering do thay make intake for 4 webber's
@@joerowland7350 As far as I am aware Edelbrock dont but there are intakes out there for 4 pairs of down drought and even side draught webers however they are not a product that we support.
@@RPIEngineering ok thank you sir
For information n the quick reply
Down draft is wut I really want
I live the USA so not a lot
Off support here for this motors
Ignition is the first thing? Not headers Not porting the heads n9t camshaft?
In most cases the ignition systems are generally compromised by old components etc and as we say at the beginning of the video its about getting the best from the engine in terms of cost effective upgrades to get the best overall outcome. For sure every engine is different, every start point of that engine, every end result wanted and every budget available. In general the ignition system upgrades instantly offers better starting, smoother running, better throttle response, more torque and cleaner emissions.
However if your all about bhp etc then sure porting the heads, getting a better intake setup and forget the spark and just work with what you have I am sure will give you gains which you would be happy with. In terms of exhausts most will handle the above but shinny large primary pipes are what most want although often its not needed.
@@RPIEngineering it would be interesting to see what a fully built rover motor could do. Stroker crank, roller tappers/rockers, 10.0:1 pistons and ported heads, custom headers and 2-3" Dia exhaust would do
@@cromBumny I'd love the time to build all options etc and many more that are inside my head as future plans etc however its not always feasible or required.
Hmm, some nonsense being dished out in this video, yes the standard ignition system is not all that great but the improvements being talked about are not really down to a bigger spark, as long as the spark as enough duration and energy to ignite the fuel then that's it, it is not going to increase the flame speed at all. The issue with any of the standard Rover systems (Lucas) is that they simply start to 'drop sparks' at high RPM, in other words random cylinders fail to burn the mixture at all as the revs go over 4k RPM. This will obviously cause a loss in performance. Rover got away with this sort of thing because for 99% of the time the engine is lugging around at 2.5k RPM. I have removed all of the guts out of a standard Lucas dizzy, I then built a system into it that triggers an MSD ignition system (6AL-2) which you can program in an advance curve using software provided. Also via a MAP system you can program in a 'vac-advance' curve. All great features although the main reason I went for an MSD system is that it has a retard function for when you inject Nitrous Oxide. With regards to Edelbrock 500 carbs, they are pretty good but nobody that I've met knows how to set them up properly. I have learnt how to set them up and found out that there is never a stock needle that will get you the correct cruise mixture AND the correct acceleration (whilst only on the primaries mixture. (Air Fuel Ratio). I always end up getting the cruise mixture right but then i have to modify the thin part of the needle to get the acceleration AFR right. (I have made a gizzmo to hold the needles in my lathe to help with this). The Edlebrock charts are also full of errors! I use an XL spread sheet to work out the flow areas that any needle and jet combo will produce. The calibration kit for the 500 is pretty useless too, there are a couple of jets and one set of needles that are useful, but that's about all. The 500 carb does not like G-force much either, you can get a rich bog if you brake hard and cornering hard can cause issues, there are some tricks to help with all of this. The straight leg booster on the primaries is not great, the newer carb uses annual boosters but they have been designed badly, I make my own. The last engine I built was a 4.6, its in a reasonable state of tune (road tune, not race tune) but still pulls top gear from around 1400 RPM, its running a 500 carb, it made 315 BHP @ 5500 RPM. Its in a Rover SD1.
The most cost effective upgrades for a rover V8 ? A Chevy LS
Subjective to what power and what cash you want to put into it. But at least you still picked a V8 :-)
Ha thats the dream👍
A lot easier would be a 340 or 350 Buick which is a direct replacement....
Yup I had an ls1 5.7. 350 bhp! Loved it !
Good video but shame you recorded next to a busy road!
Thanks. We will print some "Road Closed" signs next time :-) In fact it was just after this video we invested in some mic's which have improved things
Like 👍
Please, please change the sound operator!
Yes this was pre remote mic's. Good job we are engine builders though and not video producers 🙂
So much knowledge dropped in one video, shame about the audio
Thank you. Yes we invested in some remote microphones later on that have helped with the Audio but its still not perfect. Good job its V8 engines we concentrate on lol