Cool video but you shouldn't open the lab boxes light tight lid till you fully fix your film. Opening the lid before, can cause fogging, just like that white mark on your film
Well done video however...Film should not be exposed to light until after it's been Fixed. Developer develops the silver on the film that was exposed to light in camera. The remaining unexposed silver on the film is still light sensitive until it's removed by the Fixer. After Fixing, it's safe to uncover the film. I hope people watching this are reading the comments.
This video may contain the best illustration of loading a Lab-Box on YT, including those from Lab-Box itself. On the other hand, there are a few serious omissions, including that you can process with a full tank of solutions or a half tank, but in the latter case you must continuously agitate, which a is pain in the ass. Using homemade "caffenol" in a $200 Lab-Box seems like a mix of economic metaphors, as the image quality produced by caffenol is poor on its best day. If you like to mix your own developers, you can buy for little more cost, three to five basic chemicals and make a dozen different B&W developers which actually work well and do not take half an hour to process a film. (Cost per roll is about the same as caffenol.) Also, note that L-B warns against using certain brands of film which are made on a PET base. PET plastic is too tough for the cutter on the L-B 35mm module to cut the film from the cartridge spool. 120 film is not cut, so the restriction does not apply for that film size. The "no use" list is on the L-B website (but apparently not in the user instruction manual - go figure).
@@ecclesurfilm Caffenol is a concept generated at a university chemistry project. Their results are published in a tome entitled "The Caffenol Cookbook", available free online. If you take your information regarding Caffenol and its use from the source, rather than the endless YT videos spitting out reams of nonsense, your video would be more informative. For example, the developing agent in Caffenol is a phenol produced as a byproduct of manufacturing instant coffee. It creation and quality has zero to do with the coffee itself. Also, it suffers poor tonal spacing, as well as grain so course that it makes Rodinal look positively grainless. LabBox specifies regular agitation, much more than you show in the video, because otherwise, its vertical reel gives uneven development. You are using a semi-stand technique, with it a no-go for L-Box. Finally, the useful life of caffenol, once mixed up, is about one hour. With all the incidental screwing around with setting up to start development, you are pushing your caffenol to the edge of useful life. Overall, why not just delete this video and try again with DIY D-76?
Never used one of those "boxes" for my film... might have to pick one up! Great video!!
Cool video but you shouldn't open the lab boxes light tight lid till you fully fix your film. Opening the lid before, can cause fogging, just like that white mark on your film
Thank you for tip! When I was learning how to develop, this was not taught. I will change my process next time.
@@ecclesurfilm You welcome!
Well done video however...Film should not be exposed to light until after it's been Fixed. Developer develops the silver on the film that was exposed to light in camera. The remaining unexposed silver on the film is still light sensitive until it's removed by the Fixer. After Fixing, it's safe to uncover the film. I hope people watching this are reading the comments.
sharing good knowledge !
This video may contain the best illustration of loading a Lab-Box on YT, including those from Lab-Box itself. On the other hand, there are a few serious omissions, including that you can process with a full tank of solutions or a half tank, but in the latter case you must continuously agitate, which a is pain in the ass. Using homemade "caffenol" in a $200 Lab-Box seems like a mix of economic metaphors, as the image quality produced by caffenol is poor on its best day. If you like to mix your own developers, you can buy for little more cost, three to five basic chemicals and make a dozen different B&W developers which actually work well and do not take half an hour to process a film. (Cost per roll is about the same as caffenol.) Also, note that L-B warns against using certain brands of film which are made on a PET base. PET plastic is too tough for the cutter on the L-B 35mm module to cut the film from the cartridge spool. 120 film is not cut, so the restriction does not apply for that film size. The "no use" list is on the L-B website (but apparently not in the user instruction manual - go figure).
Thank you for the information! I've noticed the image results differ between film brands when using caffenol. Ilford and Tri-X are my favorite.
@@ecclesurfilm Caffenol is a concept generated at a university chemistry project. Their results are published in a tome entitled "The Caffenol Cookbook", available free online. If you take your information regarding Caffenol and its use from the source, rather than the endless YT videos spitting out reams of nonsense, your video would be more informative. For example, the developing agent in Caffenol is a phenol produced as a byproduct of manufacturing instant coffee. It creation and quality has zero to do with the coffee itself. Also, it suffers poor tonal spacing, as well as grain so course that it makes Rodinal look positively grainless. LabBox specifies regular agitation, much more than you show in the video, because otherwise, its vertical reel gives uneven development. You are using a semi-stand technique, with it a no-go for L-Box. Finally, the useful life of caffenol, once mixed up, is about one hour. With all the incidental screwing around with setting up to start development, you are pushing your caffenol to the edge of useful life. Overall, why not just delete this video and try again with DIY D-76?
How cool!
Thank you, as always!
Ive found the easiest way to keep chemicals cool is simply to set the thermostat to 68 degrees and leave everyhing out
I use 24 minutes for negatives, and 28 minutes for positives.
Oo, I've never tried positive BW film. What brands do you recommend?
@@ecclesurfilmI think they meant reversal or contact printed positives. The only slide films are like 3 ISO for industrial use