"Drews Precision: Chambering a Savage Prefit 6.5 PRC Barrel [Full-Length Video]".
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- čas přidán 22. 02. 2023
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Choosing the Perfect Barrel: Stainless Steel When it comes to precision shooting, your barrel choice matters. Stainless steel barrels bring corrosion resistance and long-lasting durability to the table.
Barrel Twist Rate: The Advantage of 1/8 Barrel twist rate is a key factor in bullet stabilization. A 1/8 twist rate is tailor-made for those sleek 6.5mm bullets, ensuring accurate flight over extended distances and enhancing your precision.
Getting Down to Business at Drews' Precision: Rifle Barrel Chambering Get ready for a deep dive into the gritty world of rifle barrel chambering. Here at Drews' Precision, we roll up our sleeves and get hands-on with a manual lathe, single point threads, precise barrel indicating, and a high-pressure flush system.
1. The Basics: Manual Lathe Mastery We're all about that manual lathe action. Watch us secure the rifle barrel and set the stage for a precision performance that speaks volumes.
2. No-Nonsense Threads: Single Point Threading Cutting through the clutter, we dive into single point threading. Our hands get busy, carving threads that mean business without any unnecessary fuss.
3. Crafting the Chamber: Serious Business When the rubber meets the road, we're right there with chamber reaming. Serious work goes into ensuring that chamber reamer does its job right.
4. Straight Shooting: Barrel Indicating Precision takes center stage as we indicate the barrel. Our long-reach indicator ensures that everything lines up like a pro, keeping the barrel's axis on point.
5. Staying Clean: High Pressure Flush System A little mess doesn't scare us. Our high-pressure flush system flushes out chips keeping the chamber clean and cool.
6. Final Flourishes: Perfecting the Finish As we near the finish line, we're in control. Crown machining adds that final touch of finesse, and we're ready to tackle any last-minute adjustments.
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We want to extend a sincere thank you for being a part of the real-deal experience here at Drews' Precision. When it comes to chambering a rifle barrel, we bring the hands-on precision of a manual lathe, the effectiveness of single point threads, the clarity of straightforward indicating, and the practicality of a high-pressure flush system - all in a day's work.
Your support and engagement fuel our passion for precision craftsmanship. We invite you to continue joining us on this journey. For those seeking top-notch rifle work, whether it's chambering, modifications, or refinements, Drews' Precision is your destination. Our dedication to excellence ensures that your firearms receive the meticulous attention they deserve.
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God Bless,
Dustin Drews
Nice work. I really appreciate how you explain the thing.
Glad it was helpful!
Guy does great work built my 204 ruger!
I only watch his videos in anticipation of a nip slip
Outstanding video man! Thanks heaps for putting it up. You've given me some cool ideas on the pressure flush system!! Wicked..
Glad to help! Thanks for the feedback
Must be nice to be shorts weather up there!! Good vid btw.
It is! It’s only -9 below zero
Running spindle in reverse.. threading tool is upside-down, correct? Just so others understand. This is my prefered method to cut pump shaft threads for coupled shafts. Thanks for you time and detailed info. 👍
That is one way to do it. Or cut on the back side of the work in reverse.
That was an interesting machining video. Even though I trained as a turner many years ago (70's) it was cool to see the things you did to make life easier.
I've never before seen a chuck with a 'tilt' adjustment, did you invent the adapter?
Thanks for the watch.
I did not invent the chuck.
A fellow from ND did.
After using it for a year I couldn’t imagine life with out it. I would make some changes to it. But it is awesome nonetheless
you should be indicating the bore of the tool holder not the body of the reamer holder, to get exact center
It’s a floating reamer holder… You can’t indicate the bore of the reamer holder. It moves!
@@DustinDrews1 YOUR TOOL HOLDER DOESNT MOVE. I didnt say the floating reamer holder. at no point in time did I say the floating reamer holder bore. I edited my reply b/c I want you to learn and not feel bad. take the morse taper shank out of the tool block thats on your tool post and indicate that bore in. your simply running on assumptions that the floating reamer holder BODY is concentric and that assumption is in error, ESPECIALLY since your floating and not running a zeroed rigid setup.
I understand what you’re saying now. But doing it the way I do it.
I know that the reamer body which holds all the floating aspects inside the reamer will be above to float true to the bore.
Doing it the way your explaining, you have the tool holder to Morse taper shank to tolerances, the Morse taper shank to the female reamer holder tolerances. These CAN all telegraph into angular run tolerances.
Using the outer body of the floating reamer holder it eliminates all the other potential runout tolerances that are holding it.
Thanks for the conversation
Thank you, great infrmative video. Ive only watched about 20 or so today! Your method is very logical to my machinists mind. Oil field tools etc, not ultra precision riflesmithing. My question is: Im looking to do barrel work but on a Mazak QT 100. I have yet to find any videos of anyone using Mazak CNC equipment for barrel work. Any thoughts on this or direction will be appreciated. This machine has a very short heatstock but it seems that if im using the same alighnment tools you are using that having a spider at the back on the spindle is not critical, is my thinking correct. again thank you for the great video.
I don’t recommend a spider. Barrels are really easy to bend.
Not sure what size your lathe is but it all works. The chuck is built by straight shot gunsmithing.
I just switched over to cnc. The learning curve is steep?
I can help if you have questions. 15 years CNC programming on Mazaks.@@DustinDrews1
What is the model number of the dial test indicator. I am having trouble finding it anywhere.
I get that question almost weekly. Interrapid long reach from Long Island Indicator
@DustinDrews1 Thanks. Great video too.
Thanks very much for the detailed and informative video.
I too am a fan of using the carriage for such operations.
Have you seen some gunsmiths use the headstock to drill the reamer holding tool in the carriage, aligned to the machine, instead of a floating reamer?
Do you not like to pre-bore the chamber to save wear on your reamers?
Thanks for taking the time to make and share your video and your knowledge.
Great minds think alike I guess.
I have seen how gunsmiths align drill a reamer holder aligned with the headstock. The issue I have with this method is most of them offer no adjustment. Which most think is no big deal. But in my opinion it is a huge deal. Using a set screw pushed against one side of the reamer the reamer naturally “cocks” away from the setscrew. This throws your reamer alignment completely out the window.
While most swear they get everything aligned to .0001 or a tenth. In reality If they are using range rods or things of that nature they are likely closer to .0005. Couple this to .0002 of headstock run out and a measured .0005 of reamer miss alignment from the setscrew we are now. A min of .0015 out of concentricity in one way or another.
Remember lathes cut on both sides of the material. So if we take .0015 off of one side we are going to take .0015 of the other. This leads to an oversized hole of .003. And that is if we are being really fussy with our setup.
Floating reamer holders allow the reamer to follow the bore perfectly. Saving set up time and preventing any issues if our barrel moves a any during our threading operations.
I have thought about pre drilling. Truthfully I haven’t tried it. I’m getting a cnc lathe and once go that route. I will likely cnc the chamber undersized. With a boring bar. Drill bits can easily work harden your materials.
Thanks for the view and questions. They help us all think and learn.
@@DustinDrews1 interesting thoughts.
Everything you have suggested as a potential issue can be checked and measured to confirm whether the concerns are valid or not.
Definitely finish the pre-drilling with a boring bar for concentricity, as a drill can follow and wander under misleading forces...similar a floating reamer holder, I guess 😉
Классно !
Thanks
Where did you get a five inch probe? Does it make the indicator measure differently?
Long Island indicator
I think the half moon marks are reamer chatter to my understanding not? Also, sweet vid. I like seeing how so many gunsmiths have so many different ways that they do things.
It is definitely not chatter. It just shows how it cuts a round half moon in a buttoned rifle. Chatter looks like this in a chamber. www.researchgate.net/profile/Amor-Messaoud/publication/28356417/figure/fig4/AS:669046131413004@1536524436836/Radial-chatter-marks.png
@@DustinDrews1 I just saw that half moon shape and it reminded me of an image in chambering rifles for accuracy that showed a description of 5r reamer chatter that was making the half moons. But I have seen barrels with that look and they absolutely hammer. I was just asking not to offend but more to learn. I've been watching your vids and you definitely are doing some awesome stuff. I just like learning from people who are doing the work.
hi Dustin,how big you lathes cent re bore ? 40 mm its good or need 50 mm.
3 1/8
Hey Drews - Can you give me brand and where to buy Dial Indicator and long contact point? Thank you.
Long Island indicator
@@DustinDrews1 thank you Drews
Do you do any stock work
Not at this time