Start Capturing RAZOR-SHARP Birds in FLIGHT & ACTION Photos!
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- Blurry, out of focus, blown out or not getting the perfect birds in flight and action photos in the first place? Let's change that today!
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TIMESTAMPS:
0:00 Bumpy Ride!
0:25 Put yourself in a position to succeed!
2:17 Watch and Learn!
5:36 The Right Settings
9:19 Which Camera?
11:34 Autofocus & AF Techniques
It became very clear to me that amazing pictures like yours need 4 foundation pillars. One is the technical gear and equipment. Another one is the full mastery of the whole gear by the photographer. A 3rd pillar is the mindful observation and broad knowledge of the target bird's behaviour and patterns. Lastly the passion of the photographer itself awakens the image to life. Your pictures are firmly established on all 4 of them.
And the light!! But I wholeheartedly agree.
I feel like I get a masterclass when I listen to your channel.
Glad to hear that!
I'm not a bird and wildlife photographer, but most of the tips in this video are really applicable to a wide variety of subjects. Fantastic resource for anyone who loves shooting!
Yes mate! I needed this!
So surprised you have no mention of the OM-1 or second version Mk II using ProCap and the 150-400..... even at only 25 fps, it does a fine job
Some very good tips here. One thing I'd add is to avoid trying to only get close-up "portraits" of birds. Some of my favourite photos show the environment the bird is in, and don't fill the frame with the bird alone.
Excellent summary! Thanks!
Thank you. Great information!
Thanks Jan for sharing so many useful and (to me) advanced bird photography tips. Please keep them coming :)
Another masterclass Jan! There is a reason you are my go to reference for photographers needing help.
Action speaks louder than words. You have a new subscriber now!!!
Lots of great advise, most of which I use myself. Lovely example shots too.
Very helpful thanks Jan.
One tip I picked up for BIF which I don't think you mentioned was to turn off auto review. Nothing worse than losing a bird as it approaches you during a sequence of shots because the viewfinder is lost by showing you the previous shots.
Good tip. It’s one of the first things I turn off on any camera, so I forgot it even exists 😆
This is by far the most concise and yet complete checklist for BIF. Thanks!
I love the car tip. Must remember that one. Thanks for the video.
Thank you again, you are the king!
You're welcome!
Fantastic video! Thanks for the tip!
Glad it was helpful!
One of the Best Info . 👍👌✊
Glad you think so!
Great info. Although I have heard most of it before, it helps to hear it again. It is amazing how fast the action happens and how easy it is to get lost in the action and forget these techniques. It always leaves me looking forward to the next opportunity to try again.
Thank you for the master class. You really gave me so many good tips for my BIF photography. I have a long ways to go to get good shots but with your help, I’ll get there sooner. Again thanks. 😊
I would add that smooth panning with the bird is also important. Great video, Jan. Thanks!
Interesting you’re frequently using the RF 200-800 with a converter with very good results 👍🏼
always the best videos... ❤❤.love you bro
Thank you so much 😀
This is such a complete and excellent video Jan! Covers every aspect of action photography incredibly well. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for your valuable advice and breathtaking captures! I was so impressed that I almost believed you had managed to photograph a Canon R1 in full flight, as if you had captured a rare bird with your magical camera lol.
This is all really great, sound advise!
Thanks!
excellent video as always ! thx
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video lots of great information.
Glad you enjoyed it
Really good and whole-covering lesson on birds in flight 👍
Glad you liked it!
Great advice Jan!
Glad it was helpful!
Great advices, thanks a lot!
My pleasure!
Many thanks for this tutorial Jan it was so helpful (:
You are so welcome!
Thank you very much
Real nice🎉Thank You
Thank you!
Thank you for another very practical and useful video. You have helped me tremendously capture some great shots with my new R5.
Great to hear!
Got my RF 200-800 last week…. Definitely my new goto!
Enjoy it
Great video and information Jan. I am going to try manual ISO next time I go out. Have a great day!
Lots of good advice here! I use the OM1 with the 150-400 + 1.25 TC. Most of my BIF opportunities are by chance as I am birding so I use shutter priority and float the rest. If I am deliberately setting out to do BIF then I tend to use manual exposure to avoid changing background brightness syndrome.
wow,this was a lot of reeeally good information! 😲 thanks a lot!😍👏
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Jan, really enjoy your videos. It's great to learn from someone who really knows how to communicate their skills, without all the shouting, arm-waving and narcissism that pervades elsewhere on the internet.
Glad you like them!
Go to set up is Nikon Z8 with 180/600 I mainly use Manual with auto iso and shoot at 3200 ss, Thanks for great content Jan👍🏼
Thanks!
Thank you!
Very good!…as usual..I’m using R5+RF 100-500 or RF600/f11
Spot on analysis as usual. All good advice but from my experience pre focusing is critical. Most can learn to be competent with the equipment with practice but the other key element is field craft. Knowing where to find a species, how it will behave at certain times of day and the basic ecology of an area. This also applies to individual birds, most will give clear signals you are getting too close, stay still for 5 minutes then try to get 2 steps closer and repeat it can be surprising how close you can get at times. Stalking and being a good naturalist can be part of the fun.
This was one of your best tutorials, incredible information, going to try full manual mode immediately. I usually use manual with auto iso, but time to change it up. 😊
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. I definitely need to do more manual setup before I start taking shots.
I have found that a red-dot sight can be very helpful for certain action situations. Given how good the mirrorless autofocus is, if you have a red-dot sight that's well calibrated, it can be much easier to keep the subject in the tracking zone, especially with longer lenses. At 600-800mm, trying to find a fast moving subject in the view-finder can be really challenging. I think this is especially true for marine animals like sea-lions, whales, dolphins and fish that tend to pop up fairly randomly, and then disappear quickly.
Jan, loved the useful tips . Do you always use BBF - back button focusing ? I have setup as per your setup guide on R5. Do you use the same want ? I guess a video BBF would be great.! Thanks
I love the 400mm/5.6L lens and 1.4x II extender on the R7. Extremely light combination compared to the 100-400/5.6L II zoom lens, less battery-eater and very fast in focusing.
I know that's not as flexible, but I can live with the lower weight (wish Canon had built a similar 600mm/5.6 as well for EF mount)
Awsome Tips Jan
Thanks for watching!
I keep saying I need to do more BIF. Great video :) @4:15 with the Swallows and the perch attached to your antenna :) lol Loved that :) Great shots, as usual :) Thanks Jan :)
Thanks for watching!
I thank you so much for this amazing video, I have learn so much by watching more than a few of your videos.
I am using Canon R5 with 400mm prime lens.
You are absolutely right, when birds flying closer it’s hard to fit them in frame.
But thank you for such a wonderful tips you always sharing.
🙏 🙏 🙏
You're very welcome!
Hi Jan, many thanks for all your videos and tutorials. I like them a lot. This one I find particularly useful. I am mostly shooting swifts , swallows and martins in flight. My most desired frames are when the birds fly towards me and I can get decent closeups of their funny faces, but it is also the most challenging task for even a good camera autofocus system to handle. I was wondering if it was a technological limitation of any good autofocus system, but now thanks to you I will try your „bump off” technique, …well at least deliberately as i believe I was applying it non intentionally in some instances of my successful shots. My goal is to get them really close to my lens. Cheers, Piotr
I am learning BIF photography and recently I had my best shots so far with my new RF 200-800 combined with the R8 at 1/5000s.
Great again Jan. Have not an issue with rolling shutter in electronic mode with the R6M2 and RF 100-500MM. yesterday set the shutter to 3200 with f8 on a flying owl in the field. Sharp images :) greatings Leo
Nice!
There is a method used for focusing on a bird with binoculars, that helps to master finding a subject immediately, while it is flying or perching, at 600mm. Find the bird with your eyes, keep your eyes on the bird and bring your camera up to meet your eyes. Practice on everyday birds. You will then be ready when there is something special.
hello Jan and thank you for this amazing video information, i learn something new today and i thank you for that.
best of luck Gafur from Norway
You are so welcome!
Hi Jan, I was surprised the hand-eye coordination felt easier using the 200-800 than the with 100-500
Great video that sort of sums up most of what you need to do to get BIF and action. I use most of the settings you use as I used you as a guide Jan. So I shoot Canon R5 with the 100 to 500 lens. The one issue that drives me crazy is the rolling shutter on objects in the background. Any vertical objects - trees post, etc. suddenly become leaning towers of Pisa. Granted we don't want cluttery objects in the background but sometimes it does happen. Thank you for the information on the bump. I'm gonna work on that even more, keep it coming
Yes that can be annoying!
Hi Jan.
You are so helpful! Very good advices of all kind !
Thanks.
Jan, DK
Glad it was helpful!
hi Jan, great video with lots of tips and so useful, many points i had not even thought about being new to bird photography. My go to kit is the Canon R5 and the RF 100-500, however i also have the Rf 800 f11 and although not the best lens about i have had my most successful image from it, one of an owl in flight with a vole catch which Glen picked out as one of his choice in one of your joint reviews. I am just holding off any other purchases for the moment as i await the R5 Mk2. Hopefully this will be so much better than the standard R5 and help me with my photography journey.
Thanks for sharing!
May also add on some lens you can use the focus limiters which increase the speed of focus of your lens….
Flexible Priority mode on Canon bodies is a game-changer for wildlife.
Your video was perfect timing. I just missed an Eagle chasing an Osprey with a fish as I continually focused as it was flying by. I was SO disappointed when I got the images on the computer.😢 The occasional focus was an ‘ah-ha’ moment. Thank you.
Hopefully you’ll get it next time!
Plenty of good information in this video. I will say though, that rolling shutter is not only with mirrorless electronic cameras. I shoot Nikon D850 and when I shoot in silent shutter mode I get rolling shutter sometimes.
I suppose silent mode (live view) is electronic on the dslr
Great as usual! I have learnt so much from your videos. On another topic, did you do a dodge and burn video using the luminance slider? I tried to do it with the latest Lr but the luminance slider is greyed out
Your last few videos have been excellent in content and delivery. Very helpful information. Personally, I’m waiting not so patiently for the new R5 and hoping for improved focusing , features for photographers, and maybe some in camera AI innovations..
Awesome, thank you!
My go to lens is the canon 100 to 500. The low ISO does become a problem when shooting in the forest and carrying the lens at my age has become quite heavy. I have started to use the 70 to 250 2.8 and hope I can crop to an acceptable image. I love trying to learn while listing to your videos. Thanks
Thanks for sharing
You may find the RF 100-400 interesting
Hallo Jan, wieder ein super Video, vielen Dank dafür!
Meine Ausrüstung? EOS R5 + Sigma Contemporary 150-600 am EF-Adapter. Vorteile? 1. Budget-schonend (mehr hatte ich nicht) / 2. sehr gut tragbar für meine 60 Lenze (viel leichter als das Sports-Pendant) / 3. sehr leicht schwenkbar für Birds in Flight / 4. für mich scharf genug (besonders bei 4K Video) / 5. knackscharf zusammen mit dem EF-III 2x Konverter / 6. allgemein Filmen mit dem EF-Filter Adapter bei vollem Tageslicht (Killer-Feature ND- oder Polfilter!) .
Nachteile? 7. Fokusring viel zu schmal / 8. Kein internes Zoom --> Gewichtsverlagerung beim Video / 9. Zoom nicht ruckfrei möglich bei Video / 10. vermutlich nicht besonders regendicht.
WOW! the best video on BIF that I have seen personally. I'm agree with everything but I hesitate to shoot with CRAW because I crop regularly and more particularly on BIF to have a better reframe subject. What do you think about the effect on the resolution CRAW vs RAW with cropping at 50% (R5 with RF 100/500)
There’s basically no difference unless you change exposure dramatically
Same techniques are used for jet fighter action shots ❤🤙
I dont have a lot to choose from My R7 and 100-500, I think I need to bump up my shutter speed, I shoot M with Auto ISO, If the ISO gets too high I adjust Aperture or shutter speed.
Go to equipment:
Nikon Z8, 600pf. Very sharp and light weight.
Nikon Z6ii, 100-400. Still love the IQ from the Z6ii. The 100-400 is not as consistently sharp as the 600pf.
Thinking about the 400 4.5. The 400 f2.8 would be amazing, but weight and cost keep me away.
Any advice for filming birds in flight ? I always seem to lose tracking when doing so. Thanks
What's your opinion on turning off IS when using those fast shutterspeeds? One of my combinations is the Canon R10 with the 100-400 and I feel it benefits from turning it off. Of course that could also be due to the light combination.
I usually don’t turn it off
@@jan_wegener Me neither except in my R10 with RF100-400 as it is easier to hold still. For the bigger ones including the OM Systems with 300 F4, the viewfinder is just that much calmer which helps framing the shot and evaluating the AF.
Excellent video. Full of great information. Pretty much a master class in birds in flight. I still don't understand what's wrong with manual with auto ISO. The critical elements are the shutter speed and aperture (desired DOF), so why fuss with the ISO, which, with the various denoise programs isn't much of an issue any more. Maybe I don't understand this as well as I should, so it seems to me if I'm shooting Great Blue Herons and have full manual for that bird, the settings won't be correct if a Great Egret flies into the scene. How would you address this situation? Thanks.
If the great egret flies against a dark background exposure may still be quite wrong and you blow it out. Of course in manual mode you have to adjust the settings all the time, but it stops you from the camera over or ubderexposing
Great advice. How about the image stabilization though? In lens, in camera, both. On or off when tracking birds in flight?
I leave it on
I'm using most the R7 with the RF 100/500 and RF 200/800 (for birds (in flight)). I'm in doubt to set ISO to Auto or set it on one of my wheels (joystick). Auto set is most go the time quicker/faster in use. Or should I train a lot using the wheel :)? Do you have some advice?
I swear I watched this last night
You may have been one of the few it was shown to
CZcams didn’t work properly after the upload so I had to take it down and upload again today
Me also.
Makes sense, despite that problem you had I didn't have any problems watching it though. I have managed to get some shots of a Swallow that was about to take off with Nikon APSC dslr setup with a shutter speed of 1/1600 second. Yes it was a fluke.
can you please make one video about IBIS? how important is it to have? Thank you
Not very important at all as it makes no difference at high shutter speeds although it can help you by making the view smoother as you track birds in flight
@@noelchignell1048 Thank you, I love shooting handheld and I don't have a camera with IBIS.
Ik ga bij mijn volgende shoot, volledig op Manuel te fotograferen .
Alleen dan werkt de belichtingcompensatie dan niet meer , en die heb je wel eens nodig bij donkere vogels vooral als het licht er niet mooi op valt .
Hoe los je dat dan op ?
Hi Jan. Thank you very much for your helpful videos. I wish you could make more praktical video lessons in the field. Struggling with r6markii + ef 100400 plus converter. So or so my r6 does not work well wuth ef. It is out more times every constantly. It makes no fun to exercise. I can not decide wich rf lens is better for me. The 400mm plus converter is to short for our lakes and the forest is too dark for f11. The new canon rf 200-800 would be work, but maybe to havy to cary for mountins (for me). I practise with very very little success. The photoshop and croping can not help 😅 with small birds in only 24 mb foto. Big portrait of a bird not possible yet for me. Only feeding for window😂. What do you mean, would you consider to make lerning practical lessons? Online. Unfortunately i can not fly to Australian from Switzerland for that. Thank you in advance for your consideration or cople of advices. Gruss. Katja
Jene,zdravím z Brna,fandím ti, jsi super, vždy se dovím něco nového.Chci se zeptat, když mám z8 a z 400 f4.5,má cenu jít do 600 f,6,3 na ptactvo, díky
I like the 600, because it’s a lot longer and birds are not always close
And you can use the teleconverter on it too
Great video. I just want to ask. How can I shoot 3 birds in row (same focal plane) and make them all appear clear. I normally set my aperture to say about F11 to increase my depth of field but the autofocus will just focus on one bird (and will blur the others). Is there a way to fix this? Many thanks.
You will either need to take a few shots and merge them together or align yourself parallel with the branch so that the DOF can cover the birds
You mention in the video Compressed RAW as it can give you extra wiggle room when it comes to the buffer side of the camera but what is your opinion on RAW versus Compressed RAW for image quality? Thank You.
It’s essentially the same. I made a video about it a while ago
OK thank you. Found a video from 2 years ago.@@jan_wegener
Thank You!..well done!🏆🏅
I have watched many of your instructive videos..I am a better photographer because of it.
I use the Canon R8 + 600mm F11 and Ef 135 F2
ALL mirrorless cameras are behind the action because the image has farther to travel to reach your BRAIN.
I only use the camera in Raw Burst mode + Pre shot at 30 FPS .
I observe the subject , button half pressed to activate pre shot. When it does something interesting or is properly illuminated .
Hit the button.. Pre shot captures the fleeting Decisive moment..
At the end of the day I review the photos in DP professional . Pick the ones to keep and finish processing in DXO PhtoLab7
Shutter speed 8,000
Auto ISO 100- 104,000
I get excellent photos from ISO 100 to 80,000
Usable images at ISO 104,000
Using F11 I don't get the charming extra blurry" peachiness " of your photos.
But I am pleases with the photos I take with the R8 - 600mm F11.
Friends and family are amazed and confused at the improvement in my Photography..
No A9 iii samples?
Check some other videos
Where is the PDF for the Z8? I already have your book
You can find it here
www.thebirdphotographyshow.com
Sony A9 3 with 200 to 600
Hi Jan, do your prosets only work in Photoshop and not lightroom?
They work in both
I use them in in Lightroom, and they are great! Shooting in Raw makes the photos intentionally flat. They are part of my workflow for most of my photos!
Jan that was a great episode there that you just did there Jan .
One of my favorite lenses to use for Birds in flight is the old 400 F 5.6 lens ( the toy lens ) now do you ever use this lens , the thing I'd like about it Jan is it so quick on auto focus but wondering how it works with a modern mirrorless cameras , I'd like to have your opinion on this one .
I’m sure it will work well, but there’s lenses that will outperform it that are not that much heavier, but of course pricier
What lens would you recommend for my use here Jan , keep in mind that I do not want to get an RF lens because I still use my 1DX Alot mainly has a backup camera .
didn't this video come out last night?
Only for a very few people. The majority couldn’t see it so I had to reupload it due to a CZcams glitch
@@jan_wegener Oh...CZcams for the win again...I wish there was an alternative to CZcams, there's a lot of seedy stuff that goes on...
first
Is this an upload,not being critical but just curious
What do you mean? I uploaded it last night for 10 min, but CZcams didn’t work properly so I had to take it off. I filmed this video a few days ago
@@jan_wegenerwhat I mean is I saw it last night,it just came out 5 minutes ago again here in the U.S.Why do you act surprised
@@chipsrafferty8362most people couldn’t see it, because of a CZcams glitch. So I had to wait till until after they fixed it to upload it again
Size matters when the birds are shy. 400 mm in Europe is not delivering good pictures, because the birds are to skittish. Down under the birds are less wary of humans, you can see it all the time in JW videos. I had nice birds very close to me when I was there. No hunting there?
If I stop my car in Europe spotting a heron in a field at 100-150 m, it will fly away. I see JW near a colony of breeding terns. Nobody will let you go that close to breeding birds in Europe. Often telescopes are needed to see a bird nicely. So size and magnification matters. And if a bird get too close, well, thats a luxury problem you don't have much in Europe. There are exceptions of course , when fishermen in the city are feeding herons with small fish. But this is not the rule, it is the exeption.
Hold up, 4000 shutter speed or more!? Idk about that, there is no way my old 80D is going to take nice shots at 4000 shutter unless it's insanely bright outside. Maybe with a high-ish end mirrorless but there is no way I'm going to get consistent, nice shots with moderately low ISO shooting that way, unless I had a 500 or 600 F4 or something nuts. Even moreso when I'm in the woods. Unless I'm crazy or something? If you have an r6ii or r5 sure, 25k ISO isn't even a big deal. For me, I max out at maybe a quarter of that with an old DSLR and lens.
I’m using a 77D with a 100-400mm f6.3 and it’s very difficult to get very fast shutter speed except in bright sunlight around mid day. Majority of the time it’s between 1000th and 2000th sec for action unless I let the iso go above 3200. In the woods it around 200th to 400th second.
I use the Canon R8 + 600mm F11 and Ef 135 F2
ALL mirrorless cameras are behind the action because the image has farther to travel to reach your BRAIN.
I only use the camera in Raw Burst mode + Pre shot at 30 FPS .
I observe the subject , button half pressed to activate pre shot. When it does something interesting or is properly illuminated .
Hit the button.. Pre shot captures the fleeting Decisive moment..
At the end of the day I review the photos in DP professional . Pick the ones to keep and finish processing in DXO PhtoLab7
Shutter speed 8,000
Auto ISO 100- 104,000
I get excellent photos from ISO 100 to 80,000 in sunlight or SHADE..
Usable images at ISO 104,000
Canon R8 .....
📷📸
Any camera won't mean great results for a Pro or otherwise in consistently getting good results. That's a total Myth. Nor is everyone as fortunate to have access conveniently to the best locations. Location, location, location is the Pillar of consistently getting good results.