Some of Lunmad's tutorials are many years old, but so is my '70 bonnie, so they've been a life saver for me. Love the colorful commentary and Yorkshire jargon too, though hard to fathom as a Yank.. Many tips here that keep my old bike on the road. Triumphs were quirky to say the least so having some of the shared knowledge is really helpful. Johnny, you're a star and I hope you enjoy doing these videos as much as we enjoy watching them.
Hi John thank you :-) glad to be of assistance. My camera has now become part of my tool box, it takes twice as long to do the job at hand but well worth it when I see the help I am passing on. This is one of my early videos which I could do with doing again I must admit I have trouble understanding myself some times when I watch them over :-D Thanks for the great comment.
I disassembled an old disc drive sometime back and kept the powerful magnets from it. They are curved and fixed to a metal backing with mounting holes in. I adapted two of them to pull out the clutch plates from the basket. It works perfectly every time, even if the plates are gummed together.
You show in the video that the last plate you took out was a plain steel plate. I thought on assembly the first plate to go in is a friction plate, so should be the last one out. Which is correct please.
Hi Rick :-) I use engine oil in everything forks and gearbox included. the primary shares engine oil on later Triumphs but the early ones with a timed breather though using engine oil do not share with the engine, so need checking more often, the later ones like mine breath through into the primary.
Very good. I've never liked the post '69 breather system for exactly the reason shown in your video - rust. My '69 TR6, which I bought new, still has the original clutch at 65,000 miles, although I changed the primary chain. I have newer bikes so it just sits these days. The lower end and gearbox have never been apart either.
my clutch side is filling up with oil ...is there an oil seal at crank end in between crank bearing and sprocket..???.any problems installing a new seal apart from rig ma row of removing the two sprockets???
How does that damage happen (at 8:30 or so)? the damage to those splines is quite severe! Luckily for me mine are in good shape, but I was quite nervous upon seeing the condition of yours. I don't understand how that can happen there. That looks to me like a really tight/secure fitment. (at least on Mine) Also, regarding Planimals post from forever ago: I had the exact same thing happen yesterday and fretted about it all night, but this morning I went back to it and decided to carefully grind the lip off of the spring cup so the pressure plate could be removed with the stud/spring/nut still in place. From there I was able to pull the hub out and see that the square end of the spring stud had rounded over and was spinning freely. I could then grip the square end with vice grips and turn the nut off. Now I just need a single new spring cup and stud. Anyway, thanks again for another great video!
Hello, it seems my clutch basket/chain wheel has a lot of play in it, Im having trouble getting answers as to what I need to replace???? Do I replace the shock absorber? do I replace the the chain wheel? your help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Lunmad , excellent vid , my 71 TR6R has a stuck clutch as not used for years , have tried freeing off in gear and also tied clutch to bar but still no luck , looks like it's a case off job , can i just clean off the plates ? does not look like I will need special tools ? Many thanks , Nick :o)
Hi Nick :-) thank you, the chances are there will only be one or two plate stuck, you may have to prise them apart or a sharp knock on the floor on the edges, no special tools needed to do this. You may want to clean the friction plates in very hot water and detergent and scrub up the plain plates, a concrete floor works well.
@planimal Hi planimal :-) If the stud has rounded off on the inside you have quite a problem :-( the last resort is to try and drill the nut, a small hole (1/8"-ish) down each side, close to the the stud. The aim is to split the nut and release tension on thread, you might get away with one hole. sorry for late reply all the best for 2011 :-D
@gordonemoore Hi Gordon :-) condensation can be a problem in the primary chain case, getting the motor nice and hot helps limit the problem. Short runs in cold weather will exacerbate the problem. sorry for late reply all the best for 2011 :-D
Thanks banterley, :-)
working on my old Triumph has always been a pleasure for me,
and they are not as hard to do as people think.
I thoroughly enjoy your videos Lunmad, cant understand a damned word you say, but truly enjoy them nonetheless. Keep up the good work :)
Thank you so much for your fast response, to us triumph lovers you are a godsend!
Some of Lunmad's tutorials are many years old, but so is my '70 bonnie, so they've been a life saver for me. Love the colorful commentary and Yorkshire jargon too, though hard to fathom as a Yank.. Many tips here that keep my old bike on the road. Triumphs were quirky to say the least so having some of the shared knowledge is really helpful. Johnny, you're a star and I hope you enjoy doing these videos as much as we enjoy watching them.
Hi John thank you :-) glad to be of assistance. My camera has now become part of my tool box, it takes twice as long to do the job at hand but well worth it when I see the help I am passing on. This is one of my early videos which I could do with doing again I must admit I have trouble understanding myself some times when I watch them over :-D
Thanks for the great comment.
I disassembled an old disc drive sometime back and kept the powerful magnets from it. They are curved and fixed to a metal backing with mounting holes in. I adapted two of them to pull out the clutch plates from the basket. It works perfectly every time, even if the plates are gummed together.
Great video this is my second time around Lunmad watching your builds :) trying to learn as much as i can on Triumph
Hi KayWal :-)
Glad you are enjoying them, you should have a look through my bottom end rebuild series.
Not my bottom end! but my Bonnies '-)
Hello from Denver!!!! Thanx !! and hope you are well!!!!
Hi infiniteandroid :-) thank you.
Hello to Denver from Teesside all is good.
You show in the video that the last plate you took out was a plain steel plate. I thought on assembly the first plate to go in is a friction plate, so should be the last one out. Which is correct please.
Hi Rick :-) I use engine oil in everything forks and gearbox included.
the primary shares engine oil on later Triumphs but the early ones with a timed breather though using engine oil do not share with the engine, so need checking more often, the later ones like mine breath through into the primary.
@planimal
Sorry to hear you damaged the pressure plate
These things are sent to try us!
Glad you got it done in the end.
all the best for 2011
Very good. I've never liked the post '69 breather system for exactly the reason shown in your video - rust.
My '69 TR6, which I bought new, still has the original clutch at 65,000 miles, although I changed the primary chain. I have newer bikes so it just sits these days. The lower end and gearbox have never been apart either.
you are a artist lunmad. Now, everybody wants to replacing the clutch on his triumph by pleasure. *****
Thank you!
any tips on removing clutch drum? bolt and washer removed but drum wont pull off. For t140v.
my clutch side is filling up with oil ...is there an oil seal at crank end in between crank bearing and sprocket..???.any problems installing a new seal apart from rig ma row of removing the two sprockets???
How does that damage happen (at 8:30 or so)? the damage to those splines is quite severe! Luckily for me mine are in good shape, but I was quite nervous upon seeing the condition of yours. I don't understand how that can happen there. That looks to me like a really tight/secure fitment. (at least on Mine)
Also, regarding Planimals post from forever ago: I had the exact same thing happen yesterday and fretted about it all night, but this morning I went back to it and decided to carefully grind the lip off of the spring cup so the pressure plate could be removed with the stud/spring/nut still in place. From there I was able to pull the hub out and see that the square end of the spring stud had rounded over and was spinning freely. I could then grip the square end with vice grips and turn the nut off. Now I just need a single new spring cup and stud.
Anyway, thanks again for another great video!
So what oil and weight do you run in the crankcase, primary and gearbox lunmad ? If you have a moment between spins XD
Thanks for this Lunmad
+stephen james
glad it helped stephen thanks for the thanks :-)
Hi Joshua it sounds to me like the clutch rollers need changing :-)
Hello, it seems my clutch basket/chain wheel has a lot of play in it,
Im having trouble getting answers as to what I need to replace???? Do I replace the shock absorber? do I replace the the chain wheel? your help would be greatly appreciated.
It makes me very proud to read comments like this on my brothers channel. xx
@Dclangers
Thank you! little sis :-D
sorry for late reply
all the best for 2011 :-D
Hi Lunmad , excellent vid , my 71 TR6R has a stuck clutch as not used for years , have tried freeing off in gear and also tied clutch to bar but still no luck , looks like it's a case off job , can i just clean off the plates ? does not look like I will need special tools ? Many thanks , Nick :o)
Hi Nick :-) thank you,
the chances are there will only be one or two plate stuck, you may have to prise them apart
or a sharp knock on the floor on the edges, no special tools needed to do this.
You may want to clean the friction plates in very hot water and detergent and scrub up the plain plates, a concrete floor works well.
Hi Lunmad , you are a star thank you , i will try that , :o)
@planimal
Hi planimal :-)
If the stud has rounded off on the inside you have quite a problem :-(
the last resort is to try and drill the nut, a small hole (1/8"-ish) down each side, close to the the stud.
The aim is to split the nut and release tension on thread, you might get away with one hole.
sorry for late reply
all the best for 2011 :-D
@gordonemoore
Hi Gordon :-)
condensation can be a problem in the primary chain case,
getting the motor nice and hot helps limit the problem.
Short runs in cold weather will exacerbate the problem.
sorry for late reply
all the best for 2011 :-D
@pictgroove4
Cheers Pict I'll need a bigger hat soon ;-D
sorry for late reply I don't know how I missed these
all the best for 2011 :-D
@mazidesign
Thanks mazidesign
sorry for late reply
all the best for 2011 :-D