Here’s a tip for varnish frosting: just apply gloss varnish. It completely disappears and then you can Matt it down again like it never even happened. Also I’d like to share my experience with poly-Urethane varnishes from Vallejo. I’ve used these through my airbrush and with paintbrush for years and have never had an issue they are my go to for sure. -ultimately finding what works for you matters most. For rattle cans, here’s a key tip for me: warm the can in warm water for 20 minutes prior to shaking it for 1-2 minutes. It will be evenly dispersed and reduce the likelihood of undesirable finishes. Happy painting all
As per Vince Venturella's advice I find 3 drops of ultra matt to 1 drop of satin varnish, through an airbrush, to have the best finish of any varnish out there. Definitely worth a try.
@@stahly_taleofpainters czcams.com/video/rEyRbhYc8L8/video.html @ 07mins 50 I find yourself and Vince's product videos to be outstanding. I love the formats.
Fantastic video per usual. I’ve stopped varnishing my models as a sealant without any ill effects. I’m curious why you do so, unless you were trying to mask an area that you then do another painting technique on top of it?
@@DrNorbertGames If I understand your question, when wargaming then it's protection against constantly moving your models and paint coming off. Also, protection when dropping models. If doing neither of those then it ties everything together as different paints are slightly Matt/saying/gloss, so then it levels it out to the same level of shine. When it comes to ultra Matt varnish then no paint can give that look a lone without the varnish.
@@gutssubz8232 Thank you for your reply. I was told the same thing about protecting the minis, but I just haven’t seen that much more wear without varnish as with. Although I can see your other point about trying to even out the shine of different paint lines.
Right now using the vallejo mecha varnishes. They need to dry longer but are pretty resiliant etc. Also the matt varnish is like reeeeeally matt. Can recommend so far.
Be sure to drop a bead or mixing ball into the bottle, and any time you use a matt varnish, be sure to shake it a _lot_ . Shake it like it owes you money. If you don't, the matting agents have settled to the bottom of the bottle and what you get is regular varnish.
I have been using Vallejo matt varnish for ages now and for the cost its really nice. At first, I brushed it on manually but now I use it with the airbrush and it works nicely. Unfortunately, the varnish isn't super matt, but that's the only negative I have experienced.
AK Ultra Matte mixed with Citadel Contrast Medium. Goes on with a brush, looks like an airbrush finish, very smooth and not patchy. Adding more contrast medium increases the satin finish if required.
I remember my first frosting experience... I varnished in my cold basement and left the minis to dry there. Not very optimal... But cleanup was surprisingly easy. Took some olive oil and applies it generously to the minis and left them for a day or two. Then gave them a bath to clean off the oil and varnish them again and not there is no sign of them ever being frosted. Nowadays I leave them to dry afer varnishing in a room temperature room and sometimes under my desk light and have never had any frosting happen to me. For varnishes I tend to go for Montana Gold matt varnish spray cans and they give them a pretty nice matt finish and they are reasonably priced at €8.5 for 400 ml here in Sweden. According to the can they also recommend applying it in two layers for an even matter finish but I have never needed that. And as a fun side note, their gloss varnish has the product name T1000, which I find amusing enough to share.
Army Painter Anti Shine (and Aegis Suit) are the best spray can varnishes I have ever had. I never had any frosting with them, compared to other brands like Citadel and Vallejo.
I use dilluted Vallejo Matt Varnish with brush. The finish is a bit glossy but it still looks acceptable for me. If i need the ultra matt finish i use the same varnish but with the airbrush :D
Great to see someone include MiG products. While their paints can leave a little something to desire (except the sweet DIO line), their Diorama, Auxiliary products and Kolinsky brushes are top notch imho.
I use Vallejo rattlecan varnishes (gloss, satin and Matt). Matt is ultramatt, satin kinda matt, gloss is great for pre oil work. This is when I want to somewhat save the brushstrokes. If I want to blend the drybrush and contrast paints i use 3$ cheap rattlecan matt varnish as a first varnish (it's usually kinda glossy), wait for it to dry 24hours, and varnish it with Vallejo matt or satin varnish (depending on the miniature details: metallics, wardrobe, etc). This way i get smooth transition as the cheap hardware store varnish does the dirty cheap trick blending for me 😎 One thing important to remember is, you kinda want to go ultramatt as your first varnish, and you can drybrush it later gradually with satin and/or gloss varnish just the tip drybrusb for the shinier parts. You basically follow the zenithal rules for varnish also. The only time you want to go with gloss as your first varnish is if painting slimy or sweaty effects.
Got started with varnish the other day when I realised I needed some to help waterslide transfers blend a lot better. Tried some Humbrol from a bottle at first which was terrible, but the Army Painter stuff was pretty good. Definitely left a slightly satin coat which didn't look bad by any means, but I found shaking the absolute hell out of the can for a few minutes gave nice results, even in low temperatures.
I know you were commenting on how some matt vanishes leave a grainy finish, but this grainy finish is actually necessary as a tooth (grippy surface) if you use any type of weathering powders to finish off detailing your models, just as a satin or gloss finish is needed for washes. So it really is subjective depending on the level of detailing each modeller likes. You can get a flatter finish, without the tooth with the matt varnishes you airbrush if you thin the matt varnish 50% with water for the final sealing coats...
Ive used Krylon Matte Finish spray for a while now and really love the coverage. Admittedly I haven't looked to see if it leaves a texture but I haven't noticed anything obvious. Its pretty cheap for what you get as well. I've taken some older models that have some sheen to them and recoated with the matte finish and it brought them right back down to no shine at all
I must join in on recommending Vallejo's mecha varnishes. They cure to a really durable finish which is good for wargame models that are gonna be picked up a lot. They were intended for Gunpla where models have moving parts which will be rubbing together.
I too have had issues with AK ultra matt in the past, but it was from a bottle going bad. Before it did (and my new bottle) have worked without issue. The key to a even finish is to thin it down (even though it is already quite thin). A great advantage of thinning it down is that you also get way more control over the finish you are looking for.
Key advice for varnishing, especially with rattlecans is to varnish at below room temperature 15C ideal, but humidity must be in a 50-70% range, this also goes for rattlecan priming.
Some advice regarding the ultra matt varnishes: Lucky Varnish Ultra Matt really needs 24 hours to cure. Mount the model on a painting handle or piece of cardboard to spray and don't touch it afterwards. Even if the varnish seems dry, it's very easy to rub off. Green Stuff World's Max Matt cures a bit faster, but still needs a couple of hours before it's safe to touch. Keep in mind that ultra matt varnishes in general are not that durable and pick up scratches and buffs easily - the more matt, the more delicate a varnish will be. For gaming, I recommend using the spray varnishes mentioned in the video, or using regular matt varnishes, preferably with a coat of gloss varnish first. A list of all the products & where to find them is available on my website: taleofpainters.com/2022/02/top-tip-stahlys-best-matt-varnishes-for-painting-miniatures-spray-brush-on/
I'm just going to shout out the Windsor and Newton matt acrylic varnish. Huge bottle for not a lot of money and it really matts everything down when applied through my ultra-cheap single action external mix airbrush. Dilution is not needed with this type of airbrush.
I totally agree with your choice for your favorite varnish. I'm using this one myself for some time now after i tested out many other and i'm really happy with the results. However, as you have already said, this one is quite expensive. Therefore i'm using AK Ultra Matt varnish and thin it down with some contrast medium which also gives some great results.
For rattle can I like krylon gallery series matte, this stuff is great and easily available in the US. In ideal spray conditions I too have had Citadel Munitorum ruin miniatures before.
As always, thanks for going to such lengths to share your experience and knowledge! I have a single can of Munitorium Varnish but am seriously considering buying Mr Topcoat on your recommendation. Especially since I purchased a Stormcast Eternals battleforce and would hate for all that gold to lose its lustre.
I just _KNEW_ the no.1 choice in the video was gonna be a Mr. Hobby varnish. I've been using their Mr. Super Smooth Clear Matt for a few years and haven't found any other better spray can alternatives.
I fixed a Munitorum can frosting on me by just brushing on a layer of Lahmian medium straight from the pot. Restored the finish to the same satin as other citadel paints.
I had a can of Krylon crystal clear acrylic coating I used on a lot of my miniatures. Since it left a glossy finish, I would use a bit of Testors dullcote over the top of it, and that seemed to fix the problem. But it's a little ridiculous to have to use two different sprays to get a good varnish. And truthfully, I didn't observe closely if it left any of the grainy look that you've observed in most sprays.
For those who don't want to use lacquer varnish then I would highly recommend VMS products varnishes. They are pretty much the go to product in scale modelling for gloss, satin or flat
100% agree with that. They are pretty good while not being too expensive. More people should give graffiti products a try at least once, in this hobby we buy a lot of stuff we only end up using once or twice anyways.
Now, I'm not saying everyone should switch over, but I've been using Mr Hobby Mr Super Clear flat for years on my acrylic minis with absolutely fantastic results. I really should pick up some of their topcoat to see if it's the same. I will say that the Mr Super Clear has an ultramatte finish from what I can tell. It's pretty much indistinguishable to my eyes to a layer of AK Ultra-Matte through the airbrush.
I remember how good Model Masters matt clear coat was, a step or two above the Testors stuff and it doesn't leave a yellow discoloration to your models after a few years. Sadly, Model Masters line of paints and glue is now long gone. Mr. Hobby matt varnish is decent, though.
I use Valleijo's matt polyurethane varnish, applied with brush, never had any issues, before I used Humbrol enamel varnish, but Valleijo's are surely better.
@@georgeratkowitz8023 Nope, as I said never had any issue with Vallejio's varnishes, either gloss, matt or satin, they also helps to "cancel" CA's icing on minis, I use them exclusively with brushes.
Funny how the experiences differ when the same product is used. Lucky Varnish by MIG completely went mad on me. It was matte but went disgustingly sticky to the touch even after days of drying. What works best for me is the Vallejo Premium Varnish or their Mecha Line :)
Maybe something that could have been added to this video is that airbrushing on ultra matt varnishes is mainly to change the finish, not to protect the mini. You did mention that aerosol varnishes protect more, but I would go one step further and say that airbrush varnishes protect as much as an extra layer of paint does.
Interesting that you has several cans (and replacement cans) of Army Painter varnish come out glossy. I had a similar thing happen with multiple bottles (and replacements) of their washes, which let to me giving up on them entirely. AK Ultra Matte seems to have a (relatively) short shelf-life, after which it starts to aggregate in the bottle and apply more grainy, so perhaps that's what happened here.
If you can find it in Germany, Winsor and Newton professional Matt varnish spray is ultra Matt and has never frosted on me. It’s a pain to find though.
I'm a 50 yo miniatures painter (35 years of experience) and my sole advise is : Stay away from Army Painter products...They're cheaper than the other brands but their qualities are drastically far below as well. I used their paint, base coats, varnishes, etc... and i experienced everytime some various issues with their different stuffs. Indeed, Japanese brands are obviously the finest stuff and deserve their fame despite their (very) high prices. IMHO, spanish brands (GSW, AK, Vallejo, Ammo, etc...) are the best compromise (i was a long time a Citadel user before to swap to them...) . Good video as usual...👍.
@@Khrist75 I like to play with reactivation when speed painting gritty/organic stuff, so they have a place in my tool box :) i also find they flow better
@@a.k.summers5633 Indeed Contrast paints are a bit thicker, so I make my own contrast medium where i add flow aid to improve it and delay the drying time...😅
AK Ultra Matte Varnish is my go to with the airbrush. Needs to be well shaken and slightly thinned out with airbrush thinner and applied in very THIN coats, preferably over a gloss varnish that seals the minis in. hen it is the mattest of matts out there. So matt in fact, that you really do need to go over TMM with another coat of gloss varnish to bring back the shine.
Thanks for including AMMO by Mig in your review. I much prefer them for airbrushing as at this point as AK is a non-starter and I'm still surprised so many people still recommend them.
I love the Premium Topcoat but have you ever notice that after spraying sometimes that metallic looking specs sometimes gather in the recesses? Only happens sometimes.
Mmh, maybe you're spraying on too much so that the varnish pools in the recesses? A single spray burst from each side at around 15 to 20 cm is usually enough, better spray two thin coats than a single thick one.
I've seen Mr Super used over water based acrylics. You need to make sure the paints are properly cured; not just dry. Little correction too. It's Ammo by Mig not M I G. If you want to keep metallics shiny... don't matt varnish them. And matt on black turns it grayish due to the way a matt finish is rougher for a less reflective finish.
I have been using a lot of Mr. Super Clear Matt without any problem on acrylics. It works really well, no frosting effect. It specifically states it is for use on acrylics and has an acrylic resin with an organic solvent. I think Stahly must be mistaken in his warning. The organic solvent used should not affect the acrylic paint.
Mr Super Clear's product description says it's not suitable for water-based paints and that it could damage decals. I didn't try it myself though and got Mr Topcoat instead. Good to hear that it works for you, but I cannot recommend it if the manufacturer himself issues a warning.
When the alternative is brush on, I guess I'll have to stick with the AP matt spray. It's relatively inexpensive and is readily available from my FLGS. Next cool trick these hobby companies could do is figuring out an airbrush solution to those forced to live in human resource storage units, or studio apartments as they're branded.
Excellent video! I really wasn't expecting a varnish review. It's a whole little world I've been exploring as well. Currently I have been using Vallejo's premium varnish line (from the Premium Airbrush Color line) and it has been the one I have had the best results with in conjunction with VMS Supplies. At least as far as Matte is concerned. But Ultra-Matte, I'm starting a paranoid conspiracy. Has it happened to you after a while that the varnish "disappears"? I have many miniatures with the varnish and that have not been exposed to the sun or similar, but over time have lost the varnish and have become either Matte / satin to even Glossy. I don't know if there is something I'm doing wrong, or the ultra-matte varnish is much more delicate than any other brand and requires something more. Will something like this happen with other brands, or does Mig Jimenez have this tendency? On the other hand, Premium Top Flat is wonderful, but it's really a shame not to be able to find stock. The limitations of bringing sprays to Latin America is quite difficult... Have you seen Mr.Hobby acrylic varnishes in use? I've been exploring that alternative for airbrushing for example. Once again, excellent video my friend.
No, not yet... weird. I'll keep my eyes open. I don't think Mr Hobby has an acrylic airbrush varnish, the varnishes in their Mr Color range are solvent-based.
I've brushed both vallejo matt varnish from the standard range and the mecha ranged and they made the miniature really gloss! I don't know if airbrushing them would change the results. I've used AK ultramat by brush and it made the mini so matt and desaturated that kinda ruined the paintjob. Might try the ak standard matt, or the new vallejo game color matt, by airbrush, specially for metal made gaming minis. It'd be super helpful to tone down the gloss from the washes (army painter or citadel) whilst not ruining your metallics like the ak ultra matt does
If you want a matt but not super matt, than the brush-on Anti-Shine from The Army Painter is not too bad, there is also an airbrush matt varnish in their Air range, or try the the Lucky Varnish from Ammo MIG in the regular matt version. The new Game Color varnishes are all polyurethane-based, I'm not a fan of that.
It sounds like you're not shaking the bottle well enough. Be sure you have a bead or mixing ball in it and shake it a lot. You need to re-distribute the matting agents, which naturally settle to the bottom.
@@HeadHunterSix looking back in time, it might be this... however I tried Vallejo Polyurethane Matt Varnish 72.651 and it does a great job so Im using that one now
@@stahly_taleofpainters sadly, it's the only option for some painters. I live in a small apartment with nowhere to spray, and insufficient ventilation for airbrushing.
I like the Mr Topcoat Flat in the non-premium version, which is a nuance less matt than the premium version, I use it for my Silver Skulls, see the end of the video :)
Thanks for making this! Awesome stuff. Could Mr. Hobby’s Premium Top Coat yellow over time? If wanting a semi-gloss finish, do you still recommend using a gloss finish first and then semi? Also, does it attract more dust than others?
Haven't experienced any yellowing yet. For a semi-gloss finish, I'd say just go for a satin varnish (which are usually quite glossy). AK also has a semi-gloss varnish spray. And yes, glossy paints will attract more dust.
Mr hobby topcoat really puts every other can varnish to shame. I’m really lucky my LGS carries them. Hell, they even sell the premium variety for the same price of the regular cans.
Do you have a solution to the fact that matte varnish ruins red paint? It’s driving me crazy haha. I really want a proper matte varnish but my normal method of brush painting on ak ultra matte with a bit of satin mixed in makes red look crap. Other colours are fine
Munitorium isn't really matt though. It's satin or half matt. I love it for most 40k models or models in a lot of armour but it is just too shiny for models with a lot of skin or more organic materials found in the middle earth range. I use Vallejo matt varnish on can for those instead.
I've been using Vallejo Matt Varnish, the one in the white spray can. I've had no issues and I'm quite satisfied with it. I'm curious why you didn't mention it. You haven't tried it, there's something wrong with it or just nothing interesting to say about it?
Got a can of that a couple of years ago. It was quite matt, but for me, it went on unbelievably thick so it quickly pooled in the recesses and dried cloudy there. Since then I avoid it. Maybe I got a bad can? What are your experiences in this regard?
@@stahly_taleofpainters Interesting. Like I mentiones I've had no technical issue with it myself, but I don't have a point of reference regarding the finish since prior to this I only used satin varnishes. Looks matt enough for me. I use it to even out the glossy finish you sometimes get with washes and contrast-style paints.
I used the premium topcoat as you suggested for my Black Templars. Sadly I really heave problems with whitening/mild frosting on all black or dark paints with this spray. Do you have any recommendations against that? I followed the usual instructions (right weather/humidity, warming, shaking, distance and movement...)...
Really? Oh no. This should be a premium topcoat for a reason. Never had any issues. Maybe try a different can? The more matt the spray though, the more it will knock off the intensity of dark paints though.
@@stahly_taleofpainters Ich schreib Mal auf deutsch 😁 also danke für deine Antwort. Ich bin echt ein bisschen am verzweifeln...ich hab den Premium Topcoat auf deine Empfehlung hin gekauft nachdem man an meinen eigentlichen Favoriten (Testor's Dullcoat) hier in Deutschland anscheinend leider überhaupt nicht mehr ran kommt. Muss auch sagen es ist definitiv die beste Alternative die ich bisher probiert habe. Aber während ich mit dem Dullcoat so ziemlich machen konnte was ich wollte und der mir immer ein super cleanes mattes Finish geliefert hat ist der Topcoat bei dunklen Farben und speziell schwarz (Black Templars) immer ein bisschen körnig, aufhellend und frosty. Ich versuche eigentlich die üblichen Tips zu befolgen....Dose schütteln und aufwärmen, nur bei passendem Wetter, 30cm Abstand, eher nebeln statt sprühen, 2 dünne Schichten statt dick auftragen....aber trotzdem. Naja...falls du keinen Tipp hast woran es liegen könnte muss ich es nochmal mit einer anderen Charge versuchen vllt hatte ich Pech. Irgendwas besonderes ist ja auch bei dem Topcoat nicht zu beachten oder? Danke schonmal für die Antwort
They have some varnishes and clear coats in their Mr Color range, but from what I've seen, they're all solvent based, so for me it'd be too risky to give them a try.
Thanks for the feedback 🙇🏻 Over the years, I tried and reviewed quite a few more varnishes, but for this video I narrowed it down to the five tht I think work best.
Not sure why you need to use varnish unless you are trying to change the finish look. I have models I painted 30 years ago and they still look good. No varnish applied. Who stores models in direct sun or outdoors.
Because you don't play with them. Many (probably most) miniature painters use their minis and models in tabletop games, and frequent handling will result in wear pretty quickly - even with the enamels that you used on those models.
Genuine question. Why are you varnishing plastic miniatures especially if you are intending to photograph them. I’ve only ever varnished metal minis to avoid chipping.
To protect them from handling (and, every now and then, I have a game of Kill Team). When I spend hours on a model I want to know the paint job is protected. On my models, paint tends to rub off from the edges super quickly, especially thin edge highlights. Maybe because I got sweaty fingers, don't know.
@@stahly_taleofpainters fair enough. Maybe I should varnish my plastics. I hold everything by the base and ask my appointments to do the same. I play a lot of blood bowl, which can be rough on minis, and I’ve never noticed and of the paint wear off.
Here’s a tip for varnish frosting: just apply gloss varnish. It completely disappears and then you can Matt it down again like it never even happened.
Also I’d like to share my experience with poly-Urethane varnishes from Vallejo. I’ve used these through my airbrush and with paintbrush for years and have never had an issue they are my go to for sure.
-ultimately finding what works for you matters most. For rattle cans, here’s a key tip for me: warm the can in warm water for 20 minutes prior to shaking it for 1-2 minutes. It will be evenly dispersed and reduce the likelihood of undesirable finishes.
Happy painting all
Good advice, thanks :)
As per Vince Venturella's advice I find 3 drops of ultra matt to 1 drop of satin varnish, through an airbrush, to have the best finish of any varnish out there. Definitely worth a try.
Interesting, I have to look for that video!
@@stahly_taleofpainters czcams.com/video/rEyRbhYc8L8/video.html @ 07mins 50
I find yourself and Vince's product videos to be outstanding. I love the formats.
Fantastic video per usual. I’ve stopped varnishing my models as a sealant without any ill effects. I’m curious why you do so, unless you were trying to mask an area that you then do another painting technique on top of it?
@@DrNorbertGames If I understand your question, when wargaming then it's protection against constantly moving your models and paint coming off. Also, protection when dropping models. If doing neither of those then it ties everything together as different paints are slightly Matt/saying/gloss, so then it levels it out to the same level of shine. When it comes to ultra Matt varnish then no paint can give that look a lone without the varnish.
@@gutssubz8232 Thank you for your reply. I was told the same thing about protecting the minis, but I just haven’t seen that much more wear without varnish as with. Although I can see your other point about trying to even out the shine of different paint lines.
Right now using the vallejo mecha varnishes. They need to dry longer but are pretty resiliant etc. Also the matt varnish is like reeeeeally matt. Can recommend so far.
Using the same one!
Just got vallejo matt varnish, mine is really satin😢
Vallejo Mecha matt varnish is my go-to. It even works very well as a brush-on product.
Be sure to drop a bead or mixing ball into the bottle, and any time you use a matt varnish, be sure to shake it a _lot_ . Shake it like it owes you money. If you don't, the matting agents have settled to the bottom of the bottle and what you get is regular varnish.
I've been brushing AK Ultra Matte on with brushes for years now - Great result every time.
Always nice to see overview videos like these. Not many channel do them.
I have been using Vallejo matt varnish for ages now and for the cost its really nice. At first, I brushed it on manually but now I use it with the airbrush and it works nicely. Unfortunately, the varnish isn't super matt, but that's the only negative I have experienced.
AK Ultra Matte mixed with Citadel Contrast Medium. Goes on with a brush, looks like an airbrush finish, very smooth and not patchy. Adding more contrast medium increases the satin finish if required.
I've seen that recipe in Duncan's video! Have to give a try.
A bit pricey combo you got there 😜
I remember my first frosting experience... I varnished in my cold basement and left the minis to dry there. Not very optimal... But cleanup was surprisingly easy. Took some olive oil and applies it generously to the minis and left them for a day or two. Then gave them a bath to clean off the oil and varnish them again and not there is no sign of them ever being frosted. Nowadays I leave them to dry afer varnishing in a room temperature room and sometimes under my desk light and have never had any frosting happen to me.
For varnishes I tend to go for Montana Gold matt varnish spray cans and they give them a pretty nice matt finish and they are reasonably priced at €8.5 for 400 ml here in Sweden. According to the can they also recommend applying it in two layers for an even matter finish but I have never needed that.
And as a fun side note, their gloss varnish has the product name T1000, which I find amusing enough to share.
Great video. Testors Dullcoat is the best matt spray can I have found.
In a few years that Testors Dullcoat will yellow up badly, you can't even get Testors products now since the company went out of business.
@@maxbrandt6 I have used Testors Dullcoat many times over the years and have never had a problem. No yellowing at all.
I use testors dullcoat all the time (you can still get it online) never had a problem with yellowing. I think it's great.
Army Painter Anti Shine (and Aegis Suit) are the best spray can varnishes I have ever had. I never had any frosting with them, compared to other brands like Citadel and Vallejo.
I use dilluted Vallejo Matt Varnish with brush. The finish is a bit glossy but it still looks acceptable for me. If i need the ultra matt finish i use the same varnish but with the airbrush :D
Great to see someone include MiG products.
While their paints can leave a little something to desire (except the sweet DIO line), their Diorama, Auxiliary products and Kolinsky brushes are top notch imho.
I use Vallejo rattlecan varnishes (gloss, satin and Matt). Matt is ultramatt, satin kinda matt, gloss is great for pre oil work. This is when I want to somewhat save the brushstrokes. If I want to blend the drybrush and contrast paints i use 3$ cheap rattlecan matt varnish as a first varnish (it's usually kinda glossy), wait for it to dry 24hours, and varnish it with Vallejo matt or satin varnish (depending on the miniature details: metallics, wardrobe, etc). This way i get smooth transition as the cheap hardware store varnish does the dirty cheap trick blending for me 😎
One thing important to remember is, you kinda want to go ultramatt as your first varnish, and you can drybrush it later gradually with satin and/or gloss varnish just the tip drybrusb for the shinier parts. You basically follow the zenithal rules for varnish also. The only time you want to go with gloss as your first varnish is if painting slimy or sweaty effects.
How I miss Testors dullcote
Yesterday I just used my can I bought 6 years ago.
Got started with varnish the other day when I realised I needed some to help waterslide transfers blend a lot better. Tried some Humbrol from a bottle at first which was terrible, but the Army Painter stuff was pretty good. Definitely left a slightly satin coat which didn't look bad by any means, but I found shaking the absolute hell out of the can for a few minutes gave nice results, even in low temperatures.
I know you were commenting on how some matt vanishes leave a grainy finish, but this grainy finish is actually necessary as a tooth (grippy surface) if you use any type of weathering powders to finish off detailing your models, just as a satin or gloss finish is needed for washes. So it really is subjective depending on the level of detailing each modeller likes. You can get a flatter finish, without the tooth with the matt varnishes you airbrush if you thin the matt varnish 50% with water for the final sealing coats...
Ive used Krylon Matte Finish spray for a while now and really love the coverage. Admittedly I haven't looked to see if it leaves a texture but I haven't noticed anything obvious. Its pretty cheap for what you get as well. I've taken some older models that have some sheen to them and recoated with the matte finish and it brought them right back down to no shine at all
it was my go-to but hard to find it Australia now :( it's really good
If using a rattle can the hands down best is Testor's Dullcote
I must join in on recommending Vallejo's mecha varnishes. They cure to a really durable finish which is good for wargame models that are gonna be picked up a lot. They were intended for Gunpla where models have moving parts which will be rubbing together.
I too have had issues with AK ultra matt in the past, but it was from a bottle going bad. Before it did (and my new bottle) have worked without issue. The key to a even finish is to thin it down (even though it is already quite thin). A great advantage of thinning it down is that you also get way more control over the finish you are looking for.
You should try Vallejo Mecha Varnish its pretty amazing.
Key advice for varnishing, especially with rattlecans is to varnish at below room temperature 15C ideal, but humidity must be in a 50-70% range, this also goes for rattlecan priming.
Some advice regarding the ultra matt varnishes: Lucky Varnish Ultra Matt really needs 24 hours to cure. Mount the model on a painting handle or piece of cardboard to spray and don't touch it afterwards. Even if the varnish seems dry, it's very easy to rub off. Green Stuff World's Max Matt cures a bit faster, but still needs a couple of hours before it's safe to touch. Keep in mind that ultra matt varnishes in general are not that durable and pick up scratches and buffs easily - the more matt, the more delicate a varnish will be. For gaming, I recommend using the spray varnishes mentioned in the video, or using regular matt varnishes, preferably with a coat of gloss varnish first.
A list of all the products & where to find them is available on my website: taleofpainters.com/2022/02/top-tip-stahlys-best-matt-varnishes-for-painting-miniatures-spray-brush-on/
Windsor and newton general purpose. Goog price, nice finish, never fogs up
I'm just going to shout out the Windsor and Newton matt acrylic varnish. Huge bottle for not a lot of money and it really matts everything down when applied through my ultra-cheap single action external mix airbrush. Dilution is not needed with this type of airbrush.
I also found the Army Painter spray can to be very satin or almost glossy. I just bought the Air version hoping it's better
I totally agree with your choice for your favorite varnish. I'm using this one myself for some time now after i tested out many other and i'm really happy with the results. However, as you have already said, this one is quite expensive. Therefore i'm using AK Ultra Matt varnish and thin it down with some contrast medium which also gives some great results.
Thanks for sharing!
For rattle can I like krylon gallery series matte, this stuff is great and easily available in the US.
In ideal spray conditions I too have had Citadel Munitorum ruin miniatures before.
As always, thanks for going to such lengths to share your experience and knowledge! I have a single can of Munitorium Varnish but am seriously considering buying Mr Topcoat on your recommendation. Especially since I purchased a Stormcast Eternals battleforce and would hate for all that gold to lose its lustre.
VMS is hands down the best varnish, specifically the matt
I just _KNEW_ the no.1 choice in the video was gonna be a Mr. Hobby varnish. I've been using their Mr. Super Smooth Clear Matt for a few years and haven't found any other better spray can alternatives.
I fixed a Munitorum can frosting on me by just brushing on a layer of Lahmian medium straight from the pot. Restored the finish to the same satin as other citadel paints.
I use Humbrol Matt varnish in glass bottle (not the metal pot), with an airbrush. Worked well for my father, work well for me.
Testors Dullcote is the best matt varnish by leaps and bounds, but I don't think you can get it in Europe.
Unfortunately not :(
Love it this has been my good to since a can of army painters frosted me.
I had a can of Krylon crystal clear acrylic coating I used on a lot of my miniatures. Since it left a glossy finish, I would use a bit of Testors dullcote over the top of it, and that seemed to fix the problem. But it's a little ridiculous to have to use two different sprays to get a good varnish. And truthfully, I didn't observe closely if it left any of the grainy look that you've observed in most sprays.
That AK Ultra Matte 3:1 with AK Satin is a really nice finish.
Army painter anti shine Matt spray is the ONLY varnish that has ever frosted up on me
Ah damn :(
Yup me too
For those who don't want to use lacquer varnish then I would highly recommend VMS products varnishes. They are pretty much the go to product in scale modelling for gloss, satin or flat
Excuse me, what does VMS stand for?
@@stahly_taleofpainters Vallejo Model Color
I am a huge fan of all their rattlecan variants - Gloss, Satin and Matt.
@@stahly_taleofpainters vantage model solutions, great products all round
@George Ratkowitz no not vallejo, VMS is Vantage model solutions
Montana Cans varnishes are my goto seal. Then a touch up of gloss, matte, or satin to restore effects on selected parts...
100% agree with that. They are pretty good while not being too expensive. More people should give graffiti products a try at least once, in this hobby we buy a lot of stuff we only end up using once or twice anyways.
I dabble with these too and have found them to be really good
Now, I'm not saying everyone should switch over, but I've been using Mr Hobby Mr Super Clear flat for years on my acrylic minis with absolutely fantastic results. I really should pick up some of their topcoat to see if it's the same. I will say that the Mr Super Clear has an ultramatte finish from what I can tell. It's pretty much indistinguishable to my eyes to a layer of AK Ultra-Matte through the airbrush.
I remember how good Model Masters matt clear coat was, a step or two above the Testors stuff and it doesn't leave a yellow discoloration to your models after a few years. Sadly, Model Masters line of paints and glue is now long gone. Mr. Hobby matt varnish is decent, though.
I've still got my bottle of acrylic Model Masters and it's relatively full. I love it through the airbrush.
warm spray cans in some hot water before spraying for a better finish/better spray
I use Valleijo's matt polyurethane varnish, applied with brush, never had any issues, before I used Humbrol enamel varnish, but Valleijo's are surely better.
I have had issues, it forms bubbles when applied with brush. Does it happen to you too?
@@georgeratkowitz8023 Nope, as I said never had any issue with Vallejio's varnishes, either gloss, matt or satin, they also helps to "cancel" CA's icing on minis, I use them exclusively with brushes.
Funny how the experiences differ when the same product is used. Lucky Varnish by MIG completely went mad on me. It was matte but went disgustingly sticky to the touch even after days of drying. What works best for me is the Vallejo Premium Varnish or their Mecha Line :)
Yeah this varnish really needs 24 hours to cure as they say on the label, before that it will rub off easily. Ultra matt varnishes are quite delicate!
Maybe something that could have been added to this video is that airbrushing on ultra matt varnishes is mainly to change the finish, not to protect the mini. You did mention that aerosol varnishes protect more, but I would go one step further and say that airbrush varnishes protect as much as an extra layer of paint does.
Interesting that you has several cans (and replacement cans) of Army Painter varnish come out glossy. I had a similar thing happen with multiple bottles (and replacements) of their washes, which let to me giving up on them entirely.
AK Ultra Matte seems to have a (relatively) short shelf-life, after which it starts to aggregate in the bottle and apply more grainy, so perhaps that's what happened here.
Can you show do a video where you show off your new best airbrush varnish. Seem to recall a it’s 2 parks AK ultra Matt with 1 part Vallejo mech Matte?
If you can find it in Germany, Winsor and Newton professional Matt varnish spray is ultra Matt and has never frosted on me. It’s a pain to find though.
I'm a 50 yo miniatures painter (35 years of experience) and my sole advise is : Stay away from Army Painter products...They're cheaper than the other brands but their qualities are drastically far below as well. I used their paint, base coats, varnishes, etc... and i experienced everytime some various issues with their different stuffs. Indeed, Japanese brands are obviously the finest stuff and deserve their fame despite their (very) high prices. IMHO, spanish brands (GSW, AK, Vallejo, Ammo, etc...) are the best compromise (i was a long time a Citadel user before to swap to them...) . Good video as usual...👍.
Much agreed!
So much this. The only stuff I use from them nowadays are Speed Paints
@@a.k.summers5633 Honestly i prefer to stay with my Contrast or Xpress Color sets (No reactivation and flawless application guaranteed).
@@Khrist75 I like to play with reactivation when speed painting gritty/organic stuff, so they have a place in my tool box :) i also find they flow better
@@a.k.summers5633 Indeed Contrast paints are a bit thicker, so I make my own contrast medium where i add flow aid to improve it and delay the drying time...😅
AK Ultra Matte Varnish is my go to with the airbrush. Needs to be well shaken and slightly thinned out with airbrush thinner and applied in very THIN coats, preferably over a gloss varnish that seals the minis in. hen it is the mattest of matts out there. So matt in fact, that you really do need to go over TMM with another coat of gloss varnish to bring back the shine.
If you like AK Ultra Matt, maybe give the Lucky Varnish Ultra Matt from Ammo MIG a try, I found it much easier to get an even finish with that :)
Thanks for including AMMO by Mig in your review. I much prefer them for airbrushing as at this point as AK is a non-starter and I'm still surprised so many people still recommend them.
Instar Paints Varnish+, best matt varnish and reasonably priced
Great vid! Was curious if you've had any experience with the non spray can version of the premium top coat you'd spray through the airbrush?
Not yet!
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Cool video as always.
I love the Premium Topcoat but have you ever notice that after spraying sometimes that metallic looking specs sometimes gather in the recesses? Only happens sometimes.
Mmh, maybe you're spraying on too much so that the varnish pools in the recesses? A single spray burst from each side at around 15 to 20 cm is usually enough, better spray two thin coats than a single thick one.
@@stahly_taleofpaintersWill do. Thanks.
are there varnishes very protective or do I have to use the gloss, to Matt varnish technique
How about the air brush version of hobby japan's one, N20?
I put it on my list!
I've seen Mr Super used over water based acrylics. You need to make sure the paints are properly cured; not just dry.
Little correction too. It's Ammo by Mig not M I G.
If you want to keep metallics shiny... don't matt varnish them. And matt on black turns it grayish due to the way a matt finish is rougher for a less reflective finish.
I have been using a lot of Mr. Super Clear Matt without any problem on acrylics. It works really well, no frosting effect. It specifically states it is for use on acrylics and has an acrylic resin with an organic solvent. I think Stahly must be mistaken in his warning. The organic solvent used should not affect the acrylic paint.
Mr Super Clear's product description says it's not suitable for water-based paints and that it could damage decals. I didn't try it myself though and got Mr Topcoat instead. Good to hear that it works for you, but I cannot recommend it if the manufacturer himself issues a warning.
When the alternative is brush on, I guess I'll have to stick with the AP matt spray. It's relatively inexpensive and is readily available from my FLGS.
Next cool trick these hobby companies could do is figuring out an airbrush solution to those forced to live in human resource storage units, or studio apartments as they're branded.
Yesssss Mr Hobby!
Excellent video! I really wasn't expecting a varnish review. It's a whole little world I've been exploring as well.
Currently I have been using Vallejo's premium varnish line (from the Premium Airbrush Color line) and it has been the one I have had the best results with in conjunction with VMS Supplies. At least as far as Matte is concerned.
But Ultra-Matte, I'm starting a paranoid conspiracy. Has it happened to you after a while that the varnish "disappears"? I have many miniatures with the varnish and that have not been exposed to the sun or similar, but over time have lost the varnish and have become either Matte / satin to even Glossy. I don't know if there is something I'm doing wrong, or the ultra-matte varnish is much more delicate than any other brand and requires something more. Will something like this happen with other brands, or does Mig Jimenez have this tendency?
On the other hand, Premium Top Flat is wonderful, but it's really a shame not to be able to find stock. The limitations of bringing sprays to Latin America is quite difficult... Have you seen Mr.Hobby acrylic varnishes in use? I've been exploring that alternative for airbrushing for example.
Once again, excellent video my friend.
No, not yet... weird. I'll keep my eyes open. I don't think Mr Hobby has an acrylic airbrush varnish, the varnishes in their Mr Color range are solvent-based.
I've brushed both vallejo matt varnish from the standard range and the mecha ranged and they made the miniature really gloss! I don't know if airbrushing them would change the results. I've used AK ultramat by brush and it made the mini so matt and desaturated that kinda ruined the paintjob. Might try the ak standard matt, or the new vallejo game color matt, by airbrush, specially for metal made gaming minis. It'd be super helpful to tone down the gloss from the washes (army painter or citadel) whilst not ruining your metallics like the ak ultra matt does
If you want a matt but not super matt, than the brush-on Anti-Shine from The Army Painter is not too bad, there is also an airbrush matt varnish in their Air range, or try the the Lucky Varnish from Ammo MIG in the regular matt version. The new Game Color varnishes are all polyurethane-based, I'm not a fan of that.
It sounds like you're not shaking the bottle well enough. Be sure you have a bead or mixing ball in it and shake it a lot. You need to re-distribute the matting agents, which naturally settle to the bottom.
@@HeadHunterSix looking back in time, it might be this... however I tried Vallejo Polyurethane Matt Varnish 72.651 and it does a great job so Im using that one now
I was thinking on doing brushing. Any reason why you did not review as an option?
It's tedious as hell and hard to get an even finish
@@stahly_taleofpainters Thanks for the quick answer!
@@stahly_taleofpainters sadly, it's the only option for some painters. I live in a small apartment with nowhere to spray, and insufficient ventilation for airbrushing.
Useful video thanks. What would you advise to use to varnish metallics?
I like the Mr Topcoat Flat in the non-premium version, which is a nuance less matt than the premium version, I use it for my Silver Skulls, see the end of the video :)
Thanks for making this! Awesome stuff.
Could Mr. Hobby’s Premium Top Coat yellow over time?
If wanting a semi-gloss finish, do you still recommend using a gloss finish first and then semi?
Also, does it attract more dust than others?
Haven't experienced any yellowing yet. For a semi-gloss finish, I'd say just go for a satin varnish (which are usually quite glossy). AK also has a semi-gloss varnish spray. And yes, glossy paints will attract more dust.
@@stahly_taleofpainters Thank you! I appreciate the response
Testors used to have a good matt varnish, also Krylon had a good matt varnish.
thx
Mr hobby topcoat really puts every other can varnish to shame. I’m really lucky my LGS carries them. Hell, they even sell the premium variety for the same price of the regular cans.
Do you have a solution to the fact that matte varnish ruins red paint? It’s driving me crazy haha. I really want a proper matte varnish but my normal method of brush painting on ak ultra matte with a bit of satin mixed in makes red look crap. Other colours are fine
Can't say I had this problem before. Post some pictures on our Discord and I'll have a look: discord.gg/zSrehpqDTV :)
Munitorium isn't really matt though. It's satin or half matt. I love it for most 40k models or models in a lot of armour but it is just too shiny for models with a lot of skin or more organic materials found in the middle earth range. I use Vallejo matt varnish on can for those instead.
I've been using Vallejo Matt Varnish, the one in the white spray can. I've had no issues and I'm quite satisfied with it. I'm curious why you didn't mention it. You haven't tried it, there's something wrong with it or just nothing interesting to say about it?
Same, only thing is the smell.. smells kinda like gone off lamb.
Got a can of that a couple of years ago. It was quite matt, but for me, it went on unbelievably thick so it quickly pooled in the recesses and dried cloudy there. Since then I avoid it. Maybe I got a bad can? What are your experiences in this regard?
@@stahly_taleofpainters Interesting. Like I mentiones I've had no technical issue with it myself, but I don't have a point of reference regarding the finish since prior to this I only used satin varnishes. Looks matt enough for me. I use it to even out the glossy finish you sometimes get with washes and contrast-style paints.
I used the premium topcoat as you suggested for my Black Templars. Sadly I really heave problems with whitening/mild frosting on all black or dark paints with this spray. Do you have any recommendations against that? I followed the usual instructions (right weather/humidity, warming, shaking, distance and movement...)...
Really? Oh no. This should be a premium topcoat for a reason. Never had any issues. Maybe try a different can? The more matt the spray though, the more it will knock off the intensity of dark paints though.
@@stahly_taleofpainters Ich schreib Mal auf deutsch 😁 also danke für deine Antwort. Ich bin echt ein bisschen am verzweifeln...ich hab den Premium Topcoat auf deine Empfehlung hin gekauft nachdem man an meinen eigentlichen Favoriten (Testor's Dullcoat) hier in Deutschland anscheinend leider überhaupt nicht mehr ran kommt. Muss auch sagen es ist definitiv die beste Alternative die ich bisher probiert habe. Aber während ich mit dem Dullcoat so ziemlich machen konnte was ich wollte und der mir immer ein super cleanes mattes Finish geliefert hat ist der Topcoat bei dunklen Farben und speziell schwarz (Black Templars) immer ein bisschen körnig, aufhellend und frosty. Ich versuche eigentlich die üblichen Tips zu befolgen....Dose schütteln und aufwärmen, nur bei passendem Wetter, 30cm Abstand, eher nebeln statt sprühen, 2 dünne Schichten statt dick auftragen....aber trotzdem. Naja...falls du keinen Tipp hast woran es liegen könnte muss ich es nochmal mit einer anderen Charge versuchen vllt hatte ich Pech. Irgendwas besonderes ist ja auch bei dem Topcoat nicht zu beachten oder? Danke schonmal für die Antwort
Is there an airbrush variant of the Mr Hobby varnish?
They have some varnishes and clear coats in their Mr Color range, but from what I've seen, they're all solvent based, so for me it'd be too risky to give them a try.
How'd you get the lettering on the rim of the base?
Self-printed decals on decal paper :)
@@stahly_taleofpainters would you ever consider a short tutorial on how you did it?
This video needed more brands tested.
Thanks for the feedback 🙇🏻 Over the years, I tried and reviewed quite a few more varnishes, but for this video I narrowed it down to the five tht I think work best.
Not sure why you need to use varnish unless you are trying to change the finish look.
I have models I painted 30 years ago and they still look good. No varnish applied. Who stores models in direct sun or outdoors.
Because you don't play with them. Many (probably most) miniature painters use their minis and models in tabletop games, and frequent handling will result in wear pretty quickly - even with the enamels that you used on those models.
My AP mat varnish has a horribly tendency towards glossiness. It's terrible.
Yeah it seems sometimes you get a batch that is more glossy :(
Genuine question. Why are you varnishing plastic miniatures especially if you are intending to photograph them. I’ve only ever varnished metal minis to avoid chipping.
To protect them from handling (and, every now and then, I have a game of Kill Team). When I spend hours on a model I want to know the paint job is protected. On my models, paint tends to rub off from the edges super quickly, especially thin edge highlights. Maybe because I got sweaty fingers, don't know.
@@stahly_taleofpainters fair enough. Maybe I should varnish my plastics. I hold everything by the base and ask my appointments to do the same. I play a lot of blood bowl, which can be rough on minis, and I’ve never noticed and of the paint wear off.
Testors used to be the top G, surprised there was no verdict on this.
Unfortunately, Testors is not available where I live (I also heard that Dullcoat isn't as good as it used to be).
@@stahly_taleofpainters I heard this too, same with Winsor 7. I will see for myself eventually I suppose.
GW varnish ruined my model i worked weeks at, wont EVER buy it again
Me too ... I applied a new coat with the AK matt spray and recovered my figurines. The olive oil trick is not for me
It's MATTE. With an E.
Welcome to the rest of the world, where we omit unnecessary silent vowels.
This guy sounds like Rammstein’s Richard Kruspe.
Maybe he is - have you ever seen them both at the same place?