This was exactly what I was looking for. Every other apricot pruning video is working on a really young and already trained tree. My tree is mature and neglected. Thanks!
+Jeff Bourke Jeff, I suppose this video does work for you because I was working on neglected trees but I have a newer and better one. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
@bilaczenko Anyone pruning Apricots will notice the condition called gumosis. It is actually a series of different bacterial and fungal conditions all having similar symptoms. Causes can include: Cytospora canker or Valsa canker, Eutypa Dieback, or Fungal Gummosis (fungus - Botryosphaeria dothidea). In California we limit the spread of these conditions by pruning during dry weather in October and avoiding pruning during the rains. Cleaning tools and using copper fungicides also helps.
thanks for the tips on how to prune my aporicot tree it makes total sense and cant wait for tomorrow morning lol i think the tree is about 4 to 5 yrs old and my wife and i just moved in to this apartment that is the only one with a fruit tree. hopefully it produces enough for my neighors to grab some lol thanks again
The traditional pruning time for Apricots has been winter. A few years back we figured out that apricot diseases were spread more easily if pruning took place during the winter months when it rains in California. With this in mind the current practice in CA is to prune in October before the rains begin. If you live in an area where it gets cold enough to damage apricot wood in the winter you are better off waiting until late winter to prune. Timing can vary but we never prune while fruiting
@BusinessButterfly Apricots don't usually grow well inside houses so I have no experience there. What I can tell you is plants grown in the shelter of a building won't take being moved out doors with out a period of adjustment. The plant will probably grow out of the stress eventually but expect the old leaves to fall off first.
If you did the pruning properly you shouldn't need to thin fruit. If the tree seems overloaded and in danger of breaking because of a huge fruit load it can be thinned. The usually measure for this is to use the knuckles at the back of your hand as a measure. Thin the fruit to be this distance apart. As I already mentioned though if enough wood was removed from the tree there should be no reason to thin. Use your best judgement. You could also prop the limbs and prune harder next year.
Well....I was teaching school and thought it would be a shame to waste the words and I handed a camera to my son who is a terrible camera man. This was also one of the first videos I ever posted so me work is also novice. Since this time I have learned never to use a camera man and how to break for editing. I did an apricot video 2 years back that was a better production. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
+downbntout That is a pretty old tree. Apricots don't usually survive without diseases beyond 20 years. I would consider planting a new tree as soon as possible. Despite the fact that some trees live a long time apricots are not in that class.
@sonofsun4 Apricots have different chilling times. The ones we grow here in coastal CA are low chill, your winter might just freeze them out. If you have high chill plants like Chinese or Manchurian then you do need cold weather to get a crop.
There is a much newer and improved version of this video. I am glad you got something from the old one but I really dislike that video because they guy holding the camera was awful. Since then I do all my own camera work and it comes out much better. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
The 20% rule your friend gave you makes no sense. In the case of a peach or nectarine tree you remove 60% or last years growth every year. I believe if you were watching closely that I removed less 20% to 30% of the apricots I pruned. I will assume that the 10 year old Apricot you pruned hadn't been pruned properly in years if you had to prune off so much. I have never seen pruning kill a tree only reduce the fruit. The apricots in the video fruit well with the pruning I gave them.
Yes, the first three years in a fruit trees life are some of the most important. This period of development is when the core structure is developed. The tree would be trained with a central trunk from two to four feet high and three or four main scaffold limbs that are about about eight to ten inches apart and ascending the trunk in a spiral form if possible. The center of the tree would be opened to the sky and and secondary scaffold limbs would be spaced along the primary limbs.
Planting a single apricot mixed with other plants is the usual approach by home gardeners. The trees become infected whether they stand alone or are in group. Many of the diseases that infect them are also shared by other stone fruits like plums and cherries. Avoiding mechanical injuries and cleaning your tools helps but there is no magic bullet against apricot disease if you live in the Bay Area. Apricots were grown commercially here for over a century. The area is infested with disease.
I learned a lot from this brief overview. Content and description were great. If you do this again, maybe have someone hold the camera who can keep their finger off the zoom button and uses some form of stabilization. This was difficult to watch with the shaking and zooming in and out.
Because I was teaching school at the time I wasn't able to do the camera work. I handed the camera to a person who apparently had not a single once of camera experience. When I reviewed the footage and saw what they had done I just groaned. I decided the information on the video was worth posting it. Since then I have done other videos on apricots that the camera work was managed by me. They are better. Here is the most current video and also the main page of my channel, there are over 300 videos there, all of them better camera than that old apricot shot. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html czcams.com/channels/PLpHlDS6fOpc6_3QrgiFUA.html
Yes, I was called in to do this work at what I would consider the wrong time of year. I agreed to do the work because historical Apricot had been pruned during the winter in CA. Pruning in the dry weather of fall is the suggested season by UC Davis. This article notes pruning before the onset of winter rains to prevent spreading diseases by working with wet trees. homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/7259.pdf I have a much improved apricot video done in 2015 where I am pruning in the proper season. I suggest using it rather than this old video. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
Well, I pruned this winter and this year(spring) I've got blossoms....Now, the reason might be, that the winter was pretty harsh and long this year (3rd coldest in Texas history?).and those apricots just might need some extra chilling time to produce,isn't it right???
I've been searching for just such a vid. Very well done. I am very appreciative of such an informative, direct tutorial. I just got a house with an older but wonderfully branched Apricot that I hope to keep healthy for a few years so I can build my kids a tree house. If it fruits great, I love apricot jam, but any advise for promoting this for my poor new neglected friend? Many thanx
Thank you for the feed back on the video. I am happy to make a difference. I would say you have an incompatible situation with the tree. I would suggest either building the tree house and just pruning at the tree as the limbs get in the way of that function or find another place for the tree house and prune the apricot as a fruit tree. I have a very hard time trying to visualize a compromise between those two uses. As far as tree houses go apricot wood is rather weak and not the best choice for a structure. The trees are also rather susceptible to developing cankers when injured. Using the tree as a play area will probably make it difficult to control this disease. Because of the susceptibility to disease the apricot isn't a very long lived tree. In this area the healthy life span is just a bit over 16 years. Usually by the time the tree is large enough for a play house it is old enough to be removed. In either case I am sure you will enjoy having the tree. Perhaps the solution is to plant a new one for fruit and use the old one for building in!
Thank you very much for the response. From research, especially you're vid, I'm gonna give it my best shot. You've convinced me to go with the idea of building the treehouse so it surrounds, but does not rely on the trees structure.Wish us luck, and thanx again for your help!
braviart Good luck. Your biggest issue will be how to maintain the tree with a building in it. Apricot need rather heavy annual pruning to keep them vigorous. Have fun.
We bought an apricot tree two years ago. Last year it gave us ~19 apricots. delicious. This year it doesn't look much better. Tree looks healthy. We haven't pruned it since we bought it. Is that the problem? We live near Pasadena, ca.
So, my question, would apricot trees planted in a polyculture permaculture orchard still get infected? it is my understanding that the more varieties and species you have working together in a guilded orchard- that if a pest or disease were to come and infect a species, the others wouldnt be effected, right? So my idea is, plant more apricots with other fruit trees and not just mono cropped apricots?
@GreenGardenGuy1 yeah copper but what if they are inside the home I have one that is pretty big inside my home and the apricots prune just fine I had only about 16 so I ate them all just that when I took them all out all of the sudden the tree like it seemed to gotten sick is this bad?
I was 8 years younger in this video than today.. This was one of the first garden videos I ever recorded. My son held the camera. He is a terrible camera man. After this i always ran the camera myself!
I wanted to love this VERY informative video, but the filming of it was out of focus, TOO FAST, and exceptionally blurry at times. Would love to see another, much slower version of pruning a mature tree please, so that the pruning-challenged amongst us viewers, can clearly decipher what's going on. We can't learn if we can't see what's actually going on.
You have the worst video I ever did. It was the last time I used another person on the camera. Use the 2015 version instead. I held the camera. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
1.Now where or how do I find what type of pruning is needed for different types of apricot trees? 2. Someone has told me that apricot tree needs to be about 5 years old to produce. I bought 2 trees of different variety for cross pollination 2 years ago.This is 3rd spring in my yard. For last two years no blossoms.?? Thanks
our apricot tree is about 3-4 years old. this time we are getting quite a bit of fruit (we didn't prior but last fall we trimmed it per your instructions - open in the center). do we need to trim the fruit now? if so, what're some good guidelines? thanks.
I live in the Bay Area. I have two issues with my adult Apricot tree. It likes to produce a lot of cluster of branches throughout the year and the fruits never ripen. Our tree is not a semi-dwarf. The most growth of branches happens on the first 2 months of Spring as the fruit grows, and they almost never stop but do slow down around the end of summer. I was told that the previous owner may not have pruned it yearly, but we do. The major pruning is done during winter and I was told at the local nursery to trim anytime during the summer for the clusters. As for the fruit, I reduce it a lot to 2-4 fruit per branch, but still no luck on the ripening. We had only one last year that ripened and it was delicious! Any advise?
The description you give "clusters of branches" sound like a "broom" caused by incorrect pruning practices. I would need either pictures or a more detailed description to go much further on that. I am visualizing these "cluster" are forming on the ends of limbs that were cut off. Is this what you are seeing? This is a result of the way the tree is being pruned and yes, if you "stub" limbs you will end up with brooms and need to do summer pruning to correct the work. Best way to avoid this is do not stub limbs, always leave a branch at the end of every cut. Since it is almost impossible for an apricot to remain green on the tree through a Bay area summer I have to assume your description of "fruits never ripen" is describing something else. From what you say I am imagining the tree losing leaves in the fall with hard green fruit still in the tree. This is almost unheard of. I assume you are actually having the fruit rotting in the tree or falling to the ground before it's ripe. I would need more details as to what is actually happening to this fruit that keeps you from harvesting. My first thought would be your crop is being destroyed by birds or rodents before it is mature. This is very common. The other possibility is the fruit is contracting brown rot and turning into mummies without ripening. If you don't use copper sprays on apricot during the dormant season then you probably have a good case of twig blight and brown rot. One more possibility is the problem is based in the genetics of the apricot. Despite the fact we once raised commercial cots in this area only certain varieties of cot will fruit here. We use low chill cots in this area if some one planted a high chill requirement cot then it would not fruit properly here. If this doesn't answer your question try to be more specific about what you actually see happening. The devil is always in the details. Bill
GreenGardenGuy1 Thank you for your quick response. I would love to provide you photos, but I do not see how to attach the photos here. The new branches are not only from the end of the limbs, but are growing everywhere, such as branches that were never cut, even on the main trunk. Can I remove these now, so the tree can concentrate in growing and ripening the fruits? As for the fruits, when I compare it with my neighbor's tree (I was told our trees are about the same age), our tree blooms at the same time as theirs but two months after our neighbor harvest theirs, our fruits are still hard, same size (1 to 1 1/2 inches long) and green. The one that ripened last year was about 2 inches long. They do fall off on the ground before they ripen and a few rots in the tree which I manually remove, but this is weeks after my neighbor already harvested theirs. All fruits fall before the leaves fall.
4Eyes Your regrowth sounds pretty normal. You can engage in summer pruning if you like but it won't help your fruit set since that all comes from last years wood and older. Before you start on summer pruning check out Dave Wilson Nursery videos on the subject. They wrote the summer pruning book. I would stop looking over the fence at your neighbors tree, it is most likely a different variety of apricot and what their trees does won't reflect yours. It only confuses you. So you have told me the tree does have mummies on the branches, these are caused by fruit brown rot. I suspect you do not use copper spray on the tree. This is part of your trouble. Make sure you do not use a sulfur spray in apricots though. It dehydrates the buds, flowers and fruit. The fruit that falls to the ground is probably falling because of squirrels, roof rats or birds. Inspect the fallen fruit carefully. You will see marks from beaks or teeth if you look hard. Some times you can see the cut stem end where a rodent clipped it off like a pruner. If there is no animal damage at all but the fruit has brown spots it is probably falling because of brown rot. Last possibility is the tree is the wrong variety for our climate and it is aborting fruit due to lack of winter chill. Again, it is all in the tiny details, you have to inspect the evidence carefully if you want answers. good luck.
Squirrels are notorious for stripping the trees of green fruit. The fruit has to disappear some how. Squirrels are my best guess as to where your fruit goes. The Bay Area is terrible with squirrels. To harvest fruit in Fremont I had to exterminate over 75 per year. Apricots are not pruned in the winter by professionals. Only home gardeners do that out of old habits. Winter pruning spreads diseases on the trees. Prune in mid October. I am getting the impression these trees are never pruned? If so expect to skip a crop when you get around to doing the work. They should be pruned every year in fall. It is also important to know the variety when pruning cots. Different types fruit on different parts of the tree and these have different pruning systems.
Very helpful video. I have an apricot tree that came with the house we bought three years ago. The first year it had quite a few apricots, the second year a very large amount and this year nothing. I have pretty much just let it run its course for the last few years with the exception of a little pruning. But now I think it needs help. Should I start feeding it or just give it a really good pruning?
It sounds like the tree might have been neglected for a long time. Even the oldest scaffold limbs and main trunk seldom reach that diameter. Just a guess but the tree may be beyond it's productive lifespan anyway. I would consider tend it long enough to get a new tree into fruiting. Pruning the young tree each year will solve the problem. Here is an improved apricot video. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
Apricots are pruned anytime that the trees are finished fruiting but before the winter rains come. Here is a better video on the subject. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
I have several apricot trees which are probably about 20 years old. They produce lots of apricots. This year I noticed some of the limbs dying after all the fruit was picked. They were probably about 15 feet tall. I have never pruned them. I just did. Some of the limbs have the ball of sap, like amber, you mentioned in the video. I thought they might have worms and sprayed them with insecticide. I do not want to lose them and have no idea what to do. I fertilized them with mulch and miracle grow and llama poop. Any suggestions other than what I have done. Do you think it's worms or just age? I'm in the high desert in So Cal and they get plenty of water.
Apricots can get peach tree borers and flat head borers but if they are present there will be both galleries and frass not just sap. You have to pick the sap off and check underneath for the galleries. You can also run a knife under the bark of the dead limbs to find the tunnels. The bark will also have neat round holes in it from the insects. If only the sap is present then you have no insects in the tree. Apricot get dead wood and sap from two different diseases, twig blight and canker. Canker is a large wound and will kill whole limbs. Twig blight looks the same but does the smaller wood. Apricot is highly susceptible to these diseases and there is no cure only control. Never prune the cots in winter during wet weather because it spreads the disease. Oct. is the right month to prune. Always use dormant sprays of copper and oil on the trees. If you saw or prune an infect limb clean your tool with alcohol before you make the next cut because you can spread the disease. ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r5100911.html
Hi Bill: several weeks back we exchanged problem/solution of dropped Appricot blooms. Now, I have a pretty good load of fruits in my tree, but I notice that bulk of the fruits have some darker (brownish) patches on its skin. Looks somewaht like fungus, but not whitish! Do you know what it may be and how can I get rid of it. I do backyard gardening in Bakersfield.- Regards, Morris
For some reason Google held your comment for 7 years. I just got a dump of old comments this morning. That is apricot brown rot. Same as twig blight. Use copper in the dormant and delayed dormant seasons.
neigbors tree produced for the first time after 10 years. small fruit, but ok. should we just prune, or fertilize. tree is abt 14 feet tall. also what does twig blight look like
Apricots require annual pruning. See my updated apricot video from 2015. It is much better than this one. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html Depending on the type of fertilizer you use the trees should be fed at least a couple times each year. Small fruit could be the genetics of the tree or caused by the lack of proper pruning. We prune in part to thin fruiting wood for larger crops. Twig blight is the same as fruit brown rot. Blighted twigs infect the fruit. Use copper spays in dormant and delayed dormant season and keep all blighted wood cut from the tree as it appears.
Hey Bill, could you please consider making a video on rose pruning and propagation? Also, how the heck can I get huge flowers like the ones I buy on mother's day?
Roses grew great in CA but the suffer a fate worth than death in Hawaii. To do any videos about roses i would have to find a living specimen. The nearest ones I can think of are 2 hours away at 4000 feet in Hamakua. The way you get those giant long stem roses is to remove all the buds at the end of the stem but for one. This will increase the size of the flower. It is also important to use rose varieties that naturally produce large blooms. Sorry Leo, roses are too rare here for me to cover.
Hi Bill I have several Apricots trees and one cheery tree that I planted 5 years ago, but, they did not produce apricots nor the cheery. What can I do?
There are a lot of possible reasons why fruit trees fail to produce. Some have to do with what the gardener did to the trees since planting. Others have to do with what wasn't done. Still others have nothing to do with either. Provided you haven't been pruning the trees wrong, the trees are the right variety for your area and the right combination for pollinization then all you can do is wait. Waiting 5 years for sweet cherries is a pretty short time, they don't usually start making good crops until after the 6th year. On apricots I have seen the trees grafted to certain root stocks that keep them from bearing early. Both cherries and apricots need to be matched to the chilling in your area. Wrong varieties won't fruit well if the chilling is wrong. If the trees are thriving then they will probably start to fruit soon.
@sonofsun4 hmmm I have two trees as well one is very large almost is just too big for me to even try to move it and the other is just smaller both prune fine one 6 other 16 so the little one is fine but the big one is a little ill I think how can I save it HELP ME i SENT ALL OF YOU E-MAILS NO ONE IS ASNWERING OMG... homedepot has no idea how to save my trees I try all their chemicals
Apricot can be pruned 12 months out of the year if need be. The main reason we chose mid fall in CA is because disease is less likely to be spread when the weather is dry. The main reason I stop pruning when spring breaks is because the trees are actively growing with soft tissue everywhere. This tissue is very easy to damage while dragging wood from the tree. If you are a ballet dancer with a pruning shear there is no harm to pruning at this time. I will begin the summer pruning of apricot by mid June. This work focuses only on the new shoots that grew since spring broke. I reduce the length of these by 50%. This work is done out and beyond the fruiting wood though..
Yes, this was the first video I ever shot. I let my son hold the camera. I never let him hold a camera again. After this video all of the other 900 were shot by me as a camera man. Here is an improved version of the apricot video. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
My apricot trees are 2 and I feel I need to do my first prune soon. they have flowered once. they self seeded below an old tree I lost. Please reply in seasons as I'm in NZ.
Helen, I offer a reply but I haven't much to say because you didn't actually ask a question. If I anticipate your possible questions then Autumn is the best time to prune apricots. The pruning would be done to shorten the main trunk and start to form the classic vase shape used on stone fruit. Generally apricots aren't true to seed so the fruit your get from these trees will most likely not be the same as that of your old tree. Bill
GreenGardenGuy1 Thanks for your reply. I guess my question was when do I prune and is their an age you start to prune. Would shortening the main trunk by a 1/3 be too much?
Helen Roughan We usually like to leave enough vertical trunk, before the first limb, so that machines like mowers or tillers can pass near the tree without injury. Usually a main trunk between 1/2 and 1 meter will work just fine. Autumn is a common pruning season but since your tree is a juvenile spring to mid summer will be just fine for shaping.
GreenGardenGuy1 Thanks Bill. I will prune soon as it's Spring. Does the fact I had a few blossoms mean that I may get a couple of fruit, as I was thinking 5-7 years for fruit.
Helen Roughan If left unpruned apricots will flower and fruit early at the expense of the tree structure. One of the main reasons we don't expect fruit earlier than 5 years is because the first three years of the trees life are spent shaping he tree so it can hold up a decent fruit load once we allow it to fruit. This early vigorous pruning usually delays any flowering.
The USDA banned supplements made from Apricot pits decades ago because they contain cyanide. Even though they look like almonds they are not. Eat enough of these pits and get a free ticket to heaven. You are correct about the vitamin B but the cyanide that comes with it is a real problem.
Thanks, Hey now you have my motorbike head working, the cyanide is a bit different than the type that kills ya. I'll have to check but there was some kind of idea the cyanide does not release or catalyze toxic. pal's buddy in Northern Cal told me his dad had used it sparingly. Thanks! hope to get some apricot rooted cutting soon.
I highly recommend avoiding eating apricot pits. There are deaths on record. You can eat a few but too many will sicken or kill you. The 1950's drug based on apricot pits was called Laetrile. It was banned as a cancer treatment by the FDA due to acute toxicity. It is the vitamin B17 in apricot pits that has everyone excited. They claim it will kill tumors. I would only consider it if I had cancer.
That was it the b17 interlinked with the bad stuff. I trust your assesment and will stick to my citrus tree rooting addiction. :o) and my BSA's of course. Rather try cannabis oil for cancer first :o) if I had too.
Ya it is coming back the cyanide was claimed to hone in on cancer and only release the cyanide in response to abnormal or cancerous cells. There is a lot of info in the world wide digital video library. an archive of human existance, quantum stuff. Thanks! prune on.....
This was the first video ever posted on this channel. I was teaching school and some one else shot the video. The camera man had no idea how to do this right. I left the video up because people keep using it. I learned to do my own camera work in time and made an improved apricot video in 2015. It is much better. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html&ab_channel=GreenGardenGuy1
Your response is rude. Have some manners. You do not need to speak to other humans in this condescending fashion. I agree, the camera work was terrible. I never used a helper again. I have better apricot videos done at a later date while I handled the camera. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
Because my son held the camera the camera work in this video is the worst ever. I did a remake of apricot pruning a few years back that is much better. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
This was one of the first videos i ever posted. The camera man was very poor and the camera an old SD. I have a much better update apricot video. I would have deleted this one but people keep watching it and letting me know the camera work sucked. Here is a better version. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
GreenGardenGuy1 nice. after watching this i trimmed my apricot tree how you said opening the center and removing all diseased and dead wood. its looking very good hopefully spring shows the results. thanks allot man
Good to hear you will never go wrong removing dead wood and opening the center. I suggest working in the dry weather of fall next year. The spread of disease is limited in dry weather.
I am the subject of this video but I did not shoot it. It was so bad I never allowed anyone else to hold my camera again. The video was up dated and improved several years back. I am aware the video sucks, but thank you for noticing. Here is the newest one. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
This was the first video ever recorded on this channel and I did not do the camera work. I would have deleted the video years ago if it didn't have 5 times the hits of a much better and more recent version. Please use this newer version. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
I am fully aware the camera work is bad. I did not do the work. Someone else shot it as I taught a class. Sorry you missed the class. I have left the video up because people use it not because of the camera work. The video was done over by me back in 2015 and is much improved in all ways. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html&ab_channel=GreenGardenGuy1
I am aware the camera operator was an idiot. I did another version of this video with me as the camera man in 2015. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
This was exactly what I was looking for. Every other apricot pruning video is working on a really young and already trained tree. My tree is mature and neglected.
Thanks!
+Jeff Bourke Jeff, I suppose this video does work for you because I was working on neglected trees but I have a newer and better one. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
Wow! This is the best "how to" video I've ever seen. He makes it so easy and sensible to understand!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! You are the BEST!!
@bilaczenko Anyone pruning Apricots will notice the condition called gumosis. It is actually a series of different bacterial and fungal conditions all having similar symptoms. Causes can include: Cytospora canker or Valsa canker, Eutypa Dieback, or Fungal Gummosis (fungus - Botryosphaeria dothidea). In California we limit the spread of these conditions by pruning during dry weather in October and avoiding pruning during the rains. Cleaning tools and using copper fungicides also helps.
thanks for the tips on how to prune my aporicot tree it makes total sense and cant wait for tomorrow morning lol i think the tree is about 4 to 5 yrs old and my wife and i just moved in to this apartment that is the only one with a fruit tree. hopefully it produces enough for my neighors to grab some lol thanks again
The traditional pruning time for Apricots has been winter. A few years back we figured out that apricot diseases were spread more easily if pruning took place during the winter months when it rains in California. With this in mind the current practice in CA is to prune in October before the rains begin. If you live in an area where it gets cold enough to damage apricot wood in the winter you are better off waiting until late winter to prune. Timing can vary but we never prune while fruiting
I love videos like this. Learn from the professionals!
Here is a much improved version. enjoy, thanks for tuning in. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
@BusinessButterfly Apricots don't usually grow well inside houses so I have no experience there. What I can tell you is plants grown in the shelter of a building won't take being moved out doors with out a period of adjustment. The plant will probably grow out of the stress eventually but expect the old leaves to fall off first.
If you did the pruning properly you shouldn't need to thin fruit. If the tree seems overloaded and in danger of breaking because of a huge fruit load it can be thinned. The usually measure for this is to use the knuckles at the back of your hand as a measure. Thin the fruit to be this distance apart. As I already mentioned though if enough wood was removed from the tree there should be no reason to thin. Use your best judgement. You could also prop the limbs and prune harder next year.
Great advice but your camera person needs to learn how to use the camera. Hard to see what you're doing sometimes.
Well....I was teaching school and thought it would be a shame to waste the words and I handed a camera to my son who is a terrible camera man. This was also one of the first videos I ever posted so me work is also novice. Since this time I have learned never to use a camera man and how to break for editing. I did an apricot video 2 years back that was a better production. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
Thank you, I learned a lot. I'm taking care of a 40 yr old tree. Love that fruit.
+downbntout That is a pretty old tree. Apricots don't usually survive without diseases beyond 20 years. I would consider planting a new tree as soon as possible. Despite the fact that some trees live a long time apricots are not in that class.
+GreenGardenGuy1 thank you, hadn't thought to plant another. I'll plant two!
+downbntout Great idea. I plant trees almost every day, it is a wonderful thing. Just looking to the right apricot for your climate. They vary a lot.
@sonofsun4 Apricots have different chilling times. The ones we grow here in coastal CA are low chill, your winter might just freeze them out. If you have high chill plants like Chinese or Manchurian then you do need cold weather to get a crop.
You are so welcome, glad I could help. Bill
try cutting in august, because if you prune in winter you could potentially early spring blossom off the tree, especially apricot
thanks Bill I like your style!
There is a much newer and improved version of this video. I am glad you got something from the old one but I really dislike that video because they guy holding the camera was awful. Since then I do all my own camera work and it comes out much better.
czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
I find it very helpful. Thank you for sharing this!
The 20% rule your friend gave you makes no sense. In the case of a peach or nectarine tree you remove 60% or last years growth every year. I believe if you were watching closely that I removed less 20% to 30% of the apricots I pruned. I will assume that the 10 year old Apricot you pruned hadn't been pruned properly in years if you had to prune off so much. I have never seen pruning kill a tree only reduce the fruit. The apricots in the video fruit well with the pruning I gave them.
Yes, the first three years in a fruit trees life are some of the most important. This period of development is when the core structure is developed. The tree would be trained with a central trunk from two to four feet high and three or four main scaffold limbs that are about about eight to ten inches apart and ascending the trunk in a spiral form if possible. The center of the tree would be opened to the sky and and secondary scaffold limbs would be spaced along the primary limbs.
Planting a single apricot mixed with other plants is the usual approach by home gardeners. The trees become infected whether they stand alone or are in group. Many of the diseases that infect them are also shared by other stone fruits like plums and cherries. Avoiding mechanical injuries and cleaning your tools helps but there is no magic bullet against apricot disease if you live in the Bay Area. Apricots were grown commercially here for over a century. The area is infested with disease.
@just4fun2140 Feeding and pruning are both annual requirements for good apricot culture. I wouldn't omit either of them from my yearly program.
You are welcome. My youtube collection at GreenGardenGuy1 has 78 other useful garden videos. Glad to help. Bill
I learned a lot from this brief overview. Content and description were great. If you do this again, maybe have someone hold the camera who can keep their finger off the zoom button and uses some form of stabilization. This was difficult to watch with the shaking and zooming in and out.
Because I was teaching school at the time I wasn't able to do the camera work. I handed the camera to a person who apparently had not a single once of camera experience. When I reviewed the footage and saw what they had done I just groaned. I decided the information on the video was worth posting it. Since then I have done other videos on apricots that the camera work was managed by me. They are better. Here is the most current video and also the main page of my channel, there are over 300 videos there, all of them better camera than that old apricot shot.
czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
czcams.com/channels/PLpHlDS6fOpc6_3QrgiFUA.html
Just in case you miss it, Bill says around 5:00 that you don't want to prune in winter, even though he is pruning in winter for demonstration.
Yes, I was called in to do this work at what I would consider the wrong time of year. I agreed to do the work because historical Apricot had been pruned during the winter in CA. Pruning in the dry weather of fall is the suggested season by UC Davis. This article notes pruning before the onset of winter rains to prevent spreading diseases by working with wet trees. homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/7259.pdf
I have a much improved apricot video done in 2015 where I am pruning in the proper season. I suggest using it rather than this old video. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
In southern Australia we prune after harvesting before it gets cold, otherwise could get gummosis.
Well, I pruned this winter and this year(spring) I've got blossoms....Now, the reason might be, that the winter was pretty harsh and long this year (3rd coldest in Texas history?).and those apricots just might need some extra chilling time to produce,isn't it right???
I've been searching for just such a vid. Very well done. I am very appreciative of such an informative, direct tutorial.
I just got a house with an older but wonderfully branched Apricot that I hope to keep healthy for a few years so I can build my kids a tree house. If it fruits great, I love apricot jam, but any advise for promoting this for my poor new neglected friend?
Many thanx
Thank you for the feed back on the video. I am happy to make a difference. I would say you have an incompatible situation with the tree. I would suggest either building the tree house and just pruning at the tree as the limbs get in the way of that function or find another place for the tree house and prune the apricot as a fruit tree. I have a very hard time trying to visualize a compromise between those two uses. As far as tree houses go apricot wood is rather weak and not the best choice for a structure. The trees are also rather susceptible to developing cankers when injured. Using the tree as a play area will probably make it difficult to control this disease. Because of the susceptibility to disease the apricot isn't a very long lived tree. In this area the healthy life span is just a bit over 16 years. Usually by the time the tree is large enough for a play house it is old enough to be removed. In either case I am sure you will enjoy having the tree. Perhaps the solution is to plant a new one for fruit and use the old one for building in!
Thank you very much for the response. From research, especially you're vid, I'm gonna give it my best shot. You've convinced me to go with the idea of building the treehouse so it surrounds, but does not rely on the trees structure.Wish us luck, and thanx again for your help!
braviart Good luck. Your biggest issue will be how to maintain the tree with a building in it. Apricot need rather heavy annual pruning to keep them vigorous. Have fun.
We bought an apricot tree two years ago. Last year it gave us ~19 apricots. delicious. This year it doesn't look much better. Tree looks healthy. We haven't pruned it since we bought it. Is that the problem? We live near Pasadena, ca.
So, my question, would apricot trees planted in a polyculture permaculture orchard still get infected? it is my understanding that the more varieties and species you have working together in a guilded orchard- that if a pest or disease were to come and infect a species, the others wouldnt be effected, right? So my idea is, plant more apricots with other fruit trees and not just mono cropped apricots?
@GreenGardenGuy1 yeah copper but what if they are inside the home I have one that is pretty big inside my home and the apricots prune just fine I had only about 16 so I ate them all just that when I took them all out all of the sudden the tree like it seemed to gotten sick is this bad?
I've never seen you move so fast!
I was 8 years younger in this video than today.. This was one of the first garden videos I ever recorded. My son held the camera. He is a terrible camera man. After this i always ran the camera myself!
I wanted to love this VERY informative video, but the filming of it was out of focus, TOO FAST, and exceptionally blurry at times. Would love to see another, much slower version of pruning a mature tree please, so that the pruning-challenged amongst us viewers, can clearly decipher what's going on. We can't learn if we can't see what's actually going on.
You have the worst video I ever did. It was the last time I used another person on the camera. Use the 2015 version instead. I held the camera.
czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
1.Now where or how do I find what type of pruning is needed for different types of apricot trees?
2. Someone has told me that apricot tree needs to be about 5 years old to produce. I bought 2 trees of different variety for cross pollination 2 years ago.This is 3rd spring in my yard. For last two years no blossoms.??
Thanks
Thank you!
czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
our apricot tree is about 3-4 years old. this time we are getting quite a bit of fruit (we didn't prior but last fall we trimmed it per your instructions - open in the center). do we need to trim the fruit now? if so, what're some good guidelines? thanks.
I live in the Bay Area. I have two issues with my adult Apricot tree. It likes to produce a lot of cluster of branches throughout the year and the fruits never ripen. Our tree is not a semi-dwarf. The most growth of branches happens on the first 2 months of Spring as the fruit grows, and they almost never stop but do slow down around the end of summer. I was told that the previous owner may not have pruned it yearly, but we do. The major pruning is done during winter and I was told at the local nursery to trim anytime during the summer for the clusters. As for the fruit, I reduce it a lot to 2-4 fruit per branch, but still no luck on the ripening. We had only one last year that ripened and it was delicious! Any advise?
The description you give "clusters of branches" sound like a "broom" caused by incorrect pruning practices. I would need either pictures or a more detailed description to go much further on that. I am visualizing these "cluster" are forming on the ends of limbs that were cut off. Is this what you are seeing? This is a result of the way the tree is being pruned and yes, if you "stub" limbs you will end up with brooms and need to do summer pruning to correct the work. Best way to avoid this is do not stub limbs, always leave a branch at the end of every cut.
Since it is almost impossible for an apricot to remain green on the tree through a Bay area summer I have to assume your description of "fruits never ripen" is describing something else. From what you say I am imagining the tree losing leaves in the fall with hard green fruit still in the tree. This is almost unheard of. I assume you are actually having the fruit rotting in the tree or falling to the ground before it's ripe. I would need more details as to what is actually happening to this fruit that keeps you from harvesting. My first thought would be your crop is being destroyed by birds or rodents before it is mature. This is very common. The other possibility is the fruit is contracting brown rot and turning into mummies without ripening. If you don't use copper sprays on apricot during the dormant season then you probably have a good case of twig blight and brown rot.
One more possibility is the problem is based in the genetics of the apricot. Despite the fact we once raised commercial cots in this area only certain varieties of cot will fruit here. We use low chill cots in this area if some one planted a high chill requirement cot then it would not fruit properly here. If this doesn't answer your question try to be more specific about what you actually see happening. The devil is always in the details. Bill
GreenGardenGuy1 Thank you for your quick response. I would love to provide you photos, but I do not see how to attach the photos here.
The new branches are not only from the end of the limbs, but are growing everywhere, such as branches that were never cut, even on the main trunk. Can I remove these now, so the tree can concentrate in growing and ripening the fruits?
As for the fruits, when I compare it with my neighbor's tree (I was told our trees are about the same age), our tree blooms at the same time as theirs but two months after our neighbor harvest theirs, our fruits are still hard, same size (1 to 1 1/2 inches long) and green. The one that ripened last year was about 2 inches long. They do fall off on the ground before they ripen and a few rots in the tree which I manually remove, but this is weeks after my neighbor already harvested theirs. All fruits fall before the leaves fall.
4Eyes Your regrowth sounds pretty normal. You can engage in summer pruning if you like but it won't help your fruit set since that all comes from last years wood and older. Before you start on summer pruning check out Dave Wilson Nursery videos on the subject. They wrote the summer pruning book.
I would stop looking over the fence at your neighbors tree, it is most likely a different variety of apricot and what their trees does won't reflect yours. It only confuses you.
So you have told me the tree does have mummies on the branches, these are caused by fruit brown rot. I suspect you do not use copper spray on the tree. This is part of your trouble. Make sure you do not use a sulfur spray in apricots though. It dehydrates the buds, flowers and fruit. The fruit that falls to the ground is probably falling because of squirrels, roof rats or birds. Inspect the fallen fruit carefully. You will see marks from beaks or teeth if you look hard. Some times you can see the cut stem end where a rodent clipped it off like a pruner. If there is no animal damage at all but the fruit has brown spots it is probably falling because of brown rot. Last possibility is the tree is the wrong variety for our climate and it is aborting fruit due to lack of winter chill. Again, it is all in the tiny details, you have to inspect the evidence carefully if you want answers. good luck.
4Eyes i
Squirrels are notorious for stripping the trees of green fruit. The fruit has to disappear some how. Squirrels are my best guess as to where your fruit goes. The Bay Area is terrible with squirrels. To harvest fruit in Fremont I had to exterminate over 75 per year. Apricots are not pruned in the winter by professionals. Only home gardeners do that out of old habits. Winter pruning spreads diseases on the trees. Prune in mid October. I am getting the impression these trees are never pruned? If so expect to skip a crop when you get around to doing the work. They should be pruned every year in fall. It is also important to know the variety when pruning cots. Different types fruit on different parts of the tree and these have different pruning systems.
Very helpful video. I have an apricot tree that came with the house we bought three years ago. The first year it had quite a few apricots, the second year a very large amount and this year nothing. I have pretty much just let it run its course for the last few years with the exception of a little pruning. But now I think it needs help. Should I start feeding it or just give it a really good pruning?
I find this very helpful. My question is do you prune them in the fall or early spring?
What if the tree has limbs thicker than your head is round?
It sounds like the tree might have been neglected for a long time. Even the oldest scaffold limbs and main trunk seldom reach that diameter. Just a guess but the tree may be beyond it's productive lifespan anyway. I would consider tend it long enough to get a new tree into fruiting. Pruning the young tree each year will solve the problem. Here is an improved apricot video. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
really good
is that varitey called 'Blenheim'
Aren't apricots trimmed just after harvest?
Apricots are pruned anytime that the trees are finished fruiting but before the winter rains come. Here is a better video on the subject. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
I have several apricot trees which are probably about 20 years old. They produce lots of apricots. This year I noticed some of the limbs dying after all the fruit was picked. They were probably about 15 feet tall. I have never pruned them. I just did. Some of the limbs have the ball of sap, like amber, you mentioned in the video. I thought they might have worms and sprayed them with insecticide. I do not want to lose them and have no idea what to do. I fertilized them with mulch and miracle grow and llama poop. Any suggestions other than what I have done. Do you think it's worms or just age? I'm in the high desert in So Cal and they get plenty of water.
Apricots can get peach tree borers and flat head borers but if they are present there will be both galleries and frass not just sap. You have to pick the sap off and check underneath for the galleries. You can also run a knife under the bark of the dead limbs to find the tunnels. The bark will also have neat round holes in it from the insects.
If only the sap is present then you have no insects in the tree. Apricot get dead wood and sap from two different diseases, twig blight and canker. Canker is a large wound and will kill whole limbs. Twig blight looks the same but does the smaller wood. Apricot is highly susceptible to these diseases and there is no cure only control. Never prune the cots in winter during wet weather because it spreads the disease. Oct. is the right month to prune. Always use dormant sprays of copper and oil on the trees. If you saw or prune an infect limb clean your tool with alcohol before you make the next cut because you can spread the disease. ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r5100911.html
Thank you!!!!!!!!!
Hi Bill: several weeks back we exchanged problem/solution of dropped Appricot blooms. Now, I have a pretty good load of fruits in my tree, but I notice that bulk of the fruits have some darker (brownish) patches on its skin. Looks somewaht like fungus, but not whitish! Do you know what it may be and how can I get rid of it. I do backyard gardening in Bakersfield.- Regards, Morris
For some reason Google held your comment for 7 years. I just got a dump of old comments this morning. That is apricot brown rot. Same as twig blight. Use copper in the dormant and delayed dormant seasons.
neigbors tree produced for the first time after 10 years. small fruit, but ok. should we just prune, or fertilize. tree is abt 14 feet tall. also what does twig blight look like
Apricots require annual pruning. See my updated apricot video from 2015. It is much better than this one.
czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
Depending on the type of fertilizer you use the trees should be fed at least a couple times each year.
Small fruit could be the genetics of the tree or caused by the lack of proper pruning. We prune in part to thin fruiting wood for larger crops.
Twig blight is the same as fruit brown rot. Blighted twigs infect the fruit. Use copper spays in dormant and delayed dormant season and keep all blighted wood cut from the tree as it appears.
thank ye
Yup.
Hey Bill, could you please consider making a video on rose pruning and propagation? Also, how the heck can I get huge flowers like the ones I buy on mother's day?
Roses grew great in CA but the suffer a fate worth than death in Hawaii. To do any videos about roses i would have to find a living specimen. The nearest ones I can think of are 2 hours away at 4000 feet in Hamakua. The way you get those giant long stem roses is to remove all the buds at the end of the stem but for one. This will increase the size of the flower. It is also important to use rose varieties that naturally produce large blooms. Sorry Leo, roses are too rare here for me to cover.
@@GreenGardenGuy1 in Cuban and Miami I had a lot that grew fine but they likely die in the island from too much moisture and fungus.
@@leonardoalfonso7080 Fungus, flower rot and Chinese rose beetles that eat them alive.
Hi Bill, which saw do you recommend for this type of pruning? Thanks in advance.
In hand saws I use the Samurai both folding and the sheath types. For a pole saw I use the Silky Zubat 330 with an 11 foot telescopic handle.
Hi Bill I have several Apricots trees and one cheery tree that I planted 5 years ago, but, they did not produce apricots nor the cheery. What can I do?
There are a lot of possible reasons why fruit trees fail to produce. Some have to do with what the gardener did to the trees since planting. Others have to do with what wasn't done. Still others have nothing to do with either. Provided you haven't been pruning the trees wrong, the trees are the right variety for your area and the right combination for pollinization then all you can do is wait. Waiting 5 years for sweet cherries is a pretty short time, they don't usually start making good crops until after the 6th year. On apricots I have seen the trees grafted to certain root stocks that keep them from bearing early. Both cherries and apricots need to be matched to the chilling in your area. Wrong varieties won't fruit well if the chilling is wrong. If the trees are thriving then they will probably start to fruit soon.
Hi Bill: Thank you very much for your help.
What brand of loppers do you use? I can't find a decent lopper and I am hesitant to spend $100+ unless they are really worth it.
@sonofsun4 hmmm I have two trees as well one is very large almost is just too big for me to even try to move it and the other is just smaller both prune fine one 6 other 16 so the little one is fine but the big one is a little ill I think how can I save it HELP ME i SENT ALL OF YOU E-MAILS NO ONE IS ASNWERING OMG... homedepot has no idea how to save my trees I try all their chemicals
Late May. Only 2 fruits so far. Is this good or bad news.
Can we still prune?
Apricot can be pruned 12 months out of the year if need be. The main reason we chose mid fall in CA is because disease is less likely to be spread when the weather is dry. The main reason I stop pruning when spring breaks is because the trees are actively growing with soft tissue everywhere. This tissue is very easy to damage while dragging wood from the tree. If you are a ballet dancer with a pruning shear there is no harm to pruning at this time. I will begin the summer pruning of apricot by mid June. This work focuses only on the new shoots that grew since spring broke. I reduce the length of these by 50%. This work is done out and beyond the fruiting wood though..
What a great knowledgable guy. But man that camera man needs to learn some skills. Hard to see whats going on.
Yes, this was the first video I ever shot. I let my son hold the camera. I never let him hold a camera again. After this video all of the other 900 were shot by me as a camera man. Here is an improved version of the apricot video.
czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
Cool
My apricot trees are 2 and I feel I need to do my first prune soon. they have flowered once. they self seeded below an old tree I lost. Please reply in seasons as I'm in NZ.
Helen, I offer a reply but I haven't much to say because you didn't actually ask a question. If I anticipate your possible questions then Autumn is the best time to prune apricots. The pruning would be done to shorten the main trunk and start to form the classic vase shape used on stone fruit. Generally apricots aren't true to seed so the fruit your get from these trees will most likely not be the same as that of your old tree. Bill
GreenGardenGuy1 Thanks for your reply. I guess my question was when do I prune and is their an age you start to prune. Would shortening the main trunk by a 1/3 be too much?
Helen Roughan We usually like to leave enough vertical trunk, before the first limb, so that machines like mowers or tillers can pass near the tree without injury. Usually a main trunk between 1/2 and 1 meter will work just fine. Autumn is a common pruning season but since your tree is a juvenile spring to mid summer will be just fine for shaping.
GreenGardenGuy1 Thanks Bill. I will prune soon as it's Spring. Does the fact I had a few blossoms mean that I may get a couple of fruit, as I was thinking 5-7 years for fruit.
Helen Roughan If left unpruned apricots will flower and fruit early at the expense of the tree structure. One of the main reasons we don't expect fruit earlier than 5 years is because the first three years of the trees life are spent shaping he tree so it can hold up a decent fruit load once we allow it to fruit. This early vigorous pruning usually delays any flowering.
Can you eat roasted pits or ground ones heard it was high in vit b? or d? There is $500 bucks in cuttings to root there if those trees are good ones.
The USDA banned supplements made from Apricot pits decades ago because they contain cyanide. Even though they look like almonds they are not. Eat enough of these pits and get a free ticket to heaven. You are correct about the vitamin B but the cyanide that comes with it is a real problem.
Thanks, Hey now you have my motorbike head working, the cyanide is a bit different than the type that kills ya. I'll have to check but there was some kind of idea the cyanide does not release or catalyze toxic. pal's buddy in Northern Cal told me his dad had used it sparingly. Thanks! hope to get some apricot rooted cutting soon.
I highly recommend avoiding eating apricot pits. There are deaths on record. You can eat a few but too many will sicken or kill you. The 1950's drug based on apricot pits was called Laetrile. It was banned as a cancer treatment by the FDA due to acute toxicity. It is the vitamin B17 in apricot pits that has everyone excited. They claim it will kill tumors. I would only consider it if I had cancer.
That was it the b17 interlinked with the bad stuff. I trust your assesment and will stick to my citrus tree rooting addiction. :o) and my BSA's of course. Rather try cannabis oil for cancer first :o) if I had too.
Ya it is coming back the cyanide was claimed to hone in on cancer and only release the cyanide in response to abnormal or cancerous cells. There is a lot of info in the world wide digital video library. an archive of human existance, quantum stuff. Thanks! prune on.....
CAmeraman hand is too shaky
This was the first video ever posted on this channel. I was teaching school and some one else shot the video. The camera man had no idea how to do this right. I left the video up because people keep using it. I learned to do my own camera work in time and made an improved apricot video in 2015. It is much better.
czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html&ab_channel=GreenGardenGuy1
was the camera guy having a seizure? This was such an informative video ruined by the camera person who had the balance of a 2-year-old.
Your response is rude. Have some manners. You do not need to speak to other humans in this condescending fashion. I agree, the camera work was terrible. I never used a helper again. I have better apricot videos done at a later date while I handled the camera. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
I got dizzy watching .
Because my son held the camera the camera work in this video is the worst ever. I did a remake of apricot pruning a few years back that is much better.
czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
this guy with a good hd camera would make a better video. stilk very informative
This was one of the first videos i ever posted. The camera man was very poor and the camera an old SD. I have a much better update apricot video. I would have deleted this one but people keep watching it and letting me know the camera work sucked. Here is a better version.
czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
GreenGardenGuy1 nice. after watching this i trimmed my apricot tree how you said opening the center and removing all diseased and dead wood. its looking very good hopefully spring shows the results. thanks allot man
Good to hear you will never go wrong removing dead wood and opening the center. I suggest working in the dry weather of fall next year. The spread of disease is limited in dry weather.
Good information and way too much camera movement.
I am the subject of this video but I did not shoot it. It was so bad I never allowed anyone else to hold my camera again. The video was up dated and improved several years back. I am aware the video sucks, but thank you for noticing. Here is the newest one. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
tree too high, should be lowered
I'm sure the owners would appreciate you assistance. Sharpen the shears!
Shaky-cam!!!
This was the first video ever recorded on this channel and I did not do the camera work. I would have deleted the video years ago if it didn't have 5 times the hits of a much better and more recent version. Please use this newer version. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html
Good explanation, very bad camera work...
I am fully aware the camera work is bad. I did not do the work. Someone else shot it as I taught a class. Sorry you missed the class. I have left the video up because people use it not because of the camera work. The video was done over by me back in 2015 and is much improved in all ways.
czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html&ab_channel=GreenGardenGuy1
loved the explanation, but really bad video
I am aware the camera operator was an idiot. I did another version of this video with me as the camera man in 2015. czcams.com/video/ied_nidmQRc/video.html