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Detroit diesel 8v92TA 2 stroke diesel tear down. Rust broken bolts counter bore problems
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- čas přidán 24. 01. 2024
- Detroit diesel 8v92TA engine rebuild tear down. Engine block counter bore inspection. Roots Blower and turbo removal and many broken bolts and seized bolts to remove.
i'm very impressed with the young man your teaching all the right things to. I've been meaning to say this for quite awhile but keep forgetting. He is a very good student, learning from a very good teacher.
He is an even better asset to us as a husband to our daughter and father to our granddaughter.
I completely agree with your comment not many good old school mentor's teaching the next generation
Didn't realise he was your son in law!@@BusGreaseMonkey
@@BusGreaseMonkeywasn’t there another young man too?
Btw, how is Tayler, since a long time he didn’t publish anything on his channel 😢
@@MrRossi1805q q
You guys are the best thing that's happened to that ole bus in a long time.👍👍
left us on a cliff hanger... did they get it out? I am on the edge of my seat!!!! Thank you so much for your content, I really enjoy the pride you take in a job done correctly, and just tackle the problems as they come. can't wait for the next installment!
Nope, there’s another video, they break it another time or two. It’ll have to be drilled and probably new threads tapped.
Scott-- your calm and patient mentoring of your son in law reminds me so much of my late father. He was a USAF veteran as a mechanic on a Convair B-36 aircraft and became a machinist and licensed aircraft mechanic. I learned so much about automotive and aircraft mechanics and electricity from him. Your son in law is so fortunate to have you!
It seems that only a few people have ever been taught to shock a bolt by hitting it straight on with a hammer BEFORE attempting to turn it. I first learned to do this from an old Detroit Diesel mechanic back in the 1980's when I was getting ready to remove a hub cover from an aluminum hub on a trailer. He told me that BEFORE I even put a socket on the head of the bolt I needed to take a big drift and a 2 pound hammer and smack straight in several times on the head of each bolt (like trying t drive it deeper into the hole) to shock the rust bond loose that surrounds the bolt shank and threads. I already knew from experience and word of mouth that these hub cover bolts were notorious for breaking when removing them. So I took his advice and smacked every bolt head a few times before trying them and they all came out intact.
Since then I have made the hammer smack a step in the process any time I have a bolt that has been seated in an aluminum component for a long time.
At the time I learned of this I had already been doing mechanic work for over 12 years and had never heard of doing it.
It seems that the technique is still not very well known.
Also work the stuck bolt back and forth while apply a little penetrating fluid to it. Working the broken stud like this will allow oil to work its way down on the threads.
Also, 1. Try to tighten bolt 2 degrees to try to loosen corrosion. 2. If bolt has not loosened keep turning each way 2 degrees to keep working lubricant into the crevice. 3. After bolt starts to turn change rotation to keep threads from locking up!! 4. Take your time with each step - 99% of all fasteners will loosen.
Slow and steady takes less time and cost less than fixing broken components. 😅😅
❤Love the show and can do attitude to keep old coaches on the road. I have an 84 Bluebird with a 6V92TA
Jonathan is the man - Scott, you both make a dynamic duo.
This one is fighting you at every turn!
I recently retired from the marine industry, boy, I don’t miss extracting broken crusty rusty exhaust manifold bolts hardly at all. Watching your guy struggle with those vice grips was more than a little painful to watch. When I get ‘em broken off with a half an inch proud I go straight to welding a nut on there, I don’t mig them on, I go straight to the stick
He has lots of patience for a young man!
I would love a more complete and clear description to liner bore protrusion measurements….describing where measurements are taken as the top of the liner is not flat. There is a lower point and a taller ridge. I have met all the Detroit experts that don’t seem to have a clue only to discover what they don’t know. I appreciate all the great content! I’m a sponge for it all. I’m working on 6/92 marines
I really enjoy watching these tear downs it's always informative this last one was a rust bucket and I wonder how many parts you're going to be able to use out of this thing
I would recommend removing the aftercooler and thoroughly cleaning it, if it looked dirty on top it's probably dirty right through the core, it's a small area for all that air to get through so any buildup is restriction. The ones I've cleaned it was unbelievable how much crud came out after soaking and blowing out. The last few I did I soaked in straight superclean degreaser overnight then poured boiling water through followed up with a pressure washer. When they're clean you can see a flashlight shining through.
Spot on bro. This engine has been neglected so everything is suspect.
I thought about the inside of the aftercooler too, after seeing the rest of the cooling system condition I am sure the core is pretty clogged and gross.
The gas rig has long been one of my go-to wrenches for tough bolts. That and giving a bolt a little shock from the impact before working in it.
Great work on this beast that's putting up a real battle.
Glad you turned the spray can at the end so I could see the name on it. Ordered me one. Nice tool tip.
Wow that hole engine has been a nightmare for you guys , unbelievable….
After all these years of service it still makes sense to rebuild this engine. California would never let you run it through. Our governor has never turned a wrench but knows better than either of us.
what a disaster glad your fixing it ,im sure the owner will be pleased they'll think it's a race car not a bus after your done. cant wait to see the test drive
Great as usual, wish you had more videos I could watch all day. Keep up the great work!
Great to see someone bringing a new life to a great engine!
Hey, what’s with the cliffhanger?😂
Great video. I purchased a pair of teckton locking pliers off Amazon. Looking forward getting them. Thanks Scott !
Great find on the Tekton locking pliers I will add those to my toolbox just like the Knipex pliers, another BGM find. Oh, and those snapon mini pry bars for all the things we destroy screwdrivers for.
If you have a pair of vice grips that are not perfect you can weld a small nut onto the side edge and use that to stop the air hammer from jumping around. Great job!!
Great video I liked the longer video and seeing more of the tear down . Thanks for sharing.
My sympathies. I was so excited to see that turbo drain bolt come out. Next, I see the threaded ends aren't the same length in the magnetic tray. 💔 The rest of the video is just more 💔 after 💔 with more and more cap screws. snapping.
Heat and beat ! reminds me in my younger days replacing a oil pan on an old 671 in an old wooden boat, had the 671 0n its side using a tourch to heat up the oil pan bolts, bilge full of diesel and old oil heads of the bolts sizziling as it hit the bilge water, no fires but the whole yard crew came running down to check for fires as all the old oil burning of the block,,,,,,need less to say new oil pan, good to go heating with a tourch is your best friend !
This is one of the most neglected engines i can't believe it drove as long as it did.
Just a thought as I did buses for the Detroit Diesel Distributor and we made a cradle to slide the engines in and out. A lot less work in the long run.
We have a detroit diesel out in the shop right now on a stand. But the Wanderlodge is easy access all around
The 8V92TA is one of the best diesel engines around.
great video guys thank you very helpfull
When loosening stuck bolts, if it moves, go back and forth from tightening it, to loosening it, while spraying it down with kroil. It chases the crap out of the threads so you don't break bolts as much.
One thing. Typically Visegrips usually work better when loosening tight bolts, nuts or studs when pushing toward the movable jaw rather than away from.
I see a sandblaster in the shop soon!! Holy cow so much rust
Always enjoy watching and learning. Have you ever tried Rydlime for cleaning corrosion and muck from engine innars, heat exchangers, etc. Safe, reusable, and remarkable effective. I was put on to it by an old farmer/mechanic. Used to great success on marine heat exchangers.
The penetrant on the bolts didn't penetrate as the threads were dry. You got lucky!
Lot of hard work with the frustration of broken bolts. Kroil by the gallon.
This engine is fighting you all the way!
Love this channel, thank you
Nightmare fuel
Now i wobder how much rust is under this rustalodge after seeing this engine that looks like it was under the ocean for a few months...
Prayers for no rusty chassis🙏
This one has allot of tough build issues but interesting especially for your tech
Not sure if you have heard or seen magnetic induction heater to heat bolt or stud to ease removal
Those things can be like magic. Friend of mine has one.
Jeeze! The owner is going to be in $1000 in hardware alone just to get it back together! I'm surprised how many bolts actually came out of the top of that blower housing without snapping. As you mentioned the dissimilar metals love to seize together.
Wow, that was a fight, looks like the bus was working in a salt mine. Probably the worst I've seen on your channel. Like the vice grips, I want a set.
Aww man! I hate cliffhangers!
I don't know if you control the SUBTITLES/CAPTIONS or CZcams does but without them it's difficult to understand the voice audio at times. (granted the subtitles are kinda nuts at times but it's better than nothing)
Every cylinder is a new adventure into "WTF".
You guys are always very safe but seeing you hammer that chisel towards your knee...
Nasty rust and dirt, its a lot of work to rectify poor maintenance. Keep on going with the hard work, busses are loving you.
Please put some wall board or corrugated metal behind the work benches to protect the foam insulation from sparks and torches. I'd really hate to hear that you had a fire in that foam!
As they say "the struggle is real".
A cliffhanger at the last bolt.
No cliffhanger we fell off the cliff with it.
keep the clips coming
The tools and the patients to deal with years of corrosion.
Looks like it was run with just water instead of proper coolant. I never knew why but at one time in UK it was common practice to only use antifreeze in winter and use straight water in summer.
Try a straight edge and 8:07 feeler gauges for sleeve protrusion.
Without you guys, that bus would be left to rot.
24:33 From what I can see, this gentleman did not take care of this vehicle. Looks like he did all the wrong things. One needs to keep up on the maintenance of any vehicle. I love to watch your videos very interesting.
He just bought it. Broke down just starting his first trip
@BusGreaseMonkey
Oh, ok. Then, the previous owner was the culprit of not telling him that there was a BIG problem with it.
Great show, is there anywhere I can get the rubber Oliver's to join the Jake Brake oil supply, thanks in advance.
Write a book and you can us this engine as an example of everything that can wrong with an 8v92A.
That bus would have me running and screaming like a bigfoot through the forestry!
Oh man you left me hanging, did the welded on nut get it out, how many time did you have to reweld a nut to it…
No it didn’t work and number of times still to be determined ;)
Is this thing really worth saving? I get that your essentially committed at this point but if everything in the engine bay is this bad what about the rest of the bus?
Your a lucky man to have lovely sons to help you a learn a trade
We’ll call this the dissimilar metals engine ! What could possibly go wrong. Steve
scot get yourself a piece of metal fuel line about 6 inch cut teeth on one end using a hack saw you will find it is the right size for the hole the bolt is stuck in run the pipe in down the side of the stuck bolt it will follow the hole already there that is full of crap by spinning the pipe in a drill it removes all the crap holding the stuck bolt steady away and you will get there
You have my deepest sympathy , those rusty bolts would have had me screaming .
😮😮😮😮 Big job 💪💪💪💪 you can get it Done
Left me hanging.😢
Brother, I don't understand why you didn't pull the whole block out of that chassis. Also don't understand why you haven't pulled the turbocharger and supercharger off. Especially with the overheating situation. I'm sure you know what you're doing, and I'm not a lame and I worked in the heavy truck industry for a lot of years and worked on a lot of 8v92s but I think it would have been a whole lot easier to get that out on an engine stand and do it that way. Just my opinion. Okay my mistake, I didn't watch you to the end I was in the middle of the video when I put this together so, sorry hahaha. Great video!
The Wanderlodge has plenty of room. Also, I'm sure Scott would appreciate it if you stopped by and removed the engine as you described for them.
What happened to Scott's son, Tyler? He was in so many video.
It's been mentioned in the comments of previous videos that Tyler decided that he wanted to get into a cleaner line of work and moved back to Indianapolis to pursue other interests.
I was about to ask the same question.
This engine job would justify a large beadblast cabinet and maybe a powdercoat setup!
That it a lot of nasty rusty bolts, nuts, screws, washers and studs etc..
What a tease.......
Did the broken bolt come out or not????????
I’ll bet those exhaust manifolds are warped. 100% with all those broken fasteners.
Are you sure this Wonderlodge wasn't submerged once in salt water like a Florida hurricane 🌀
Do you use antisieze when you reassemble, or is there an issue with that?
I use it on everything. Also, when I remove a sized bolt I always slowly work it back and forth, and spray oil until it becomes loose
Rock on guys!
Good job yall
This engine is in such rough shape, that I wonder the history. What, other than the obvious neglect, would let it get so bad?
Scott, couldn’t the broken bolt problems be solved with anti seize on the threads, then installing the components ?
Cliffhanger on the last bolt.
I was going to say you we using those vise grips the wrong way but you flipped them around later in the Video..NO big Deal..Wouldn't it be easier to pull the Motor and work on it on a bench..?
You Monkies got your work cut-out for ya on dis one, always easier said than done 😮 no fear 💪☮️&❤
Reaching like that and lifting heavy things got me a hernia. Lift smart.
Just wondering if you used a copper coat or anti seize on the bolts when you put it all back together
Enjoy your videos. Ever consider using a rubber matt over the batteries?
You give me great encouragement to maintain my old cast iron piston GM car engines properly. Are you far from a power line or is the expense overboard?
Ah...the ol' thermal wrench...for when you are done asking nicely
Are those roots blowers better than a centrifugal supercharger? I know two strokes need blowers...but would a gear driven supercharger push more boost to the engine rather than a blower? My thinking is maybe a "modernized" Detroit diesel instead of having the blower, have a gear driven, shaft supercharger for the air charge rather than the blower style...
Just saw the DDEC 2, has a turbo feeding into the blower!!!! whaaaaaat??
Keep em coming!!!!
Remember kids, it can’t be tight if it’s a liquid
And I am intrigued by the forged induction. I was about to ask why not turbocharge it, but I’m sure the math adds up somehow. Something to do with not needing an intercooler?
Can just hear Jeff Bradshaw saying “Renember, don’t light your torch like that…” as it pops into life.
The supercharger in a 2-stroke Detroit is not there to make more power. It's there to blow the exhaust out the valves by blowing fresh air into the cylinders through the ports. It won't run without it. It's a high volume low pressure arrangement. A Roots blower can make move way more air at low speeds than a centrifugal blower can.
To make more power, you add a turbocharger(s) in addition. Which this engine has. But you can't use JUST a turbocharger because at idle/low load they won't move enough air for the engine to run. The BIG 2-stroke diesels as used in locomotives and ships actually combine the two. They have a compressor wheel that is gear driven until the exhaust driven turbine can spin it faster than the drive can, at which point an overrunning clutch lets them turn faster than the shaft. But I don't think that was ever used in engines as small as these.
For perspective, this engine is 92 cubic inches per cylinder, while the EMD locomotive engines that are Detroits on steroids START at 567 cubic inches per cylinder, with the biggest ones being 710. And up to 20 cylinders.
@@kevinrhodes335 thank you. I thought that, but with how wrong I’ve been on my two stroke recollection, I quit while I was ahead (or slightly behind).
You need the shaft driven Roots blower to push air as you start the engine. That compressed air that comes in at the bottom of the stroke must do 2 things as those slots open up. It must push all the exhaust air out in the time the cylinder is starting to uncover and then recover the slots at the bottom of the stroke. It must also push in clean air to burn at injection. The term, as I remember it, is "scavenging". There is no exhaust stroke like a 4 cycle. There is no suction (intake stroke) from a down stroke to pull in fresh air like on a 4 cycle engine. You only have a compression stroke and a power stroke. Exhaust valves are only open roughly when the slots at the bottom of the stroke are open. The cams are running 1:1 with the crank. Then you need hot exhaust that is expanding to drive the turbo. Once the engine has started the turbo can do its thing and compress the air to the Roots blower and then the Roots blower will further compress the air. Then you can pour the fuel through the injectors and have lots of horses to race up the big chert hill. I know I have left out lots of technical stuff. I just want to keep it simple.
Are you using official Detroit sleeves and pistons? If not can you recommend an after market? I have a 871TI in a boat can’t get parts. Enjoy your videos. You have come along way from when you started. Bart
I'm wondering if you have to send those pistons, liners etc. back as a core, or is it just so much scrap?
No core
Was there ever a thought of a replacement engine? Or would the cost be much more than your repairs?
Would you have an easier job by taking the engine out of the bus. Been there , done that
It’s got great access all around
I think what you've got there Scott is a genuine FUBAR. Surely the labour cost is going to be at least half the cost of a new (reconditioned) engine.
You know I was just thinking. What was the other guys name? Hunter maybe? Did he quit/move on? Just was thinking I haven't seen him in awhile on the videos.
Hunter graduated from our local community college and went off to full time college away from home.
Do you replace all of the nuts and bolts when they are as bad as these?
Cliffhanger!
Some $100 bolts there .. just for the removal.
If the radiator tanks look like that, how bad is the Block!
Well nuts...
You need patience for this job
That was stressful just to watch.