Let us know your thoughts on the Indra Smart Pro Charger. Make sure you’re subscribed to our Channel with Notifications on - bit.ly/3nqFpXp-ArtisanElectrics
I've had mine for three months and can't fault it. The app is fairly decent, clear billing section and easy to use. It also supports Octopus Go and Agile to charge when it's the cheapest slots. Rumor has it SoC is coming soon, rather than just idle/boosting etc.
I much prefer the look of the Andersen, Indra and Zappi to the Hypervolt, which looks so untidy with its separate holster and extra 4 holes that need to be drilled for it. I can’t believe the awful Rolec Wallpods like Jordan ripped out are still being fitted, but they are on a new build housing estate near me.
@@gadgetman36 I think Anderson wins on style, I would take the Hypervolt over Indra Smart Pro even with the separate holster. The Zappi literally looks like a toilet seat but is a decent EVSE (just need to order in black 😜)
Hmmm, one point. personally if I want something screwed securely into a wall I'd never ever go into the mortar, fixing into the brick invariably gives a 'more' spherical hole which enables the rawl plug to grip correctly. After 50 years of many different fixings I can well remember the blocks of wood hammered in to a gouged out mortar line, as the mortar degrades fixings become loose .... in brick they stay fixed.
@@biaelectric9066 Hi there, yup, still calling them 'rawl' plugs, more as a generic term and it's what Jordan referred to them as. I've never tried 'Fischer Duos' and I'm sure they are admirable but checking their website pictures they don't actually show any of them going in the mortar line. I was merely making the point that in my opinion, any fixing is much more secure in brick than mortar, it's 15 years since I retired but I doubt mortar has improved. Having said all that, an EV charger probably has a limited lifespan and will no doubt be replaced long before the mortar crumbles. (I was never worried where I placed my fixings as they always went into brick) :-)
@@GeordieDashCam actually, although I agree with your comment regarding drilling the brick and not the mortar line, the plugs Jordan used are made by Rawlplug, so in this case it was the correct nomenclature.
This chargepoint is a hell of alot smarter than mentioned, the PEN fault settings are selectable dependant on the installation and reference earthing especially if you have solar pv to avoid nuisance tripping. This manufacturer is one to watch as they are ticking alot of the boxes for the future installations.
13:37 no it's spaced so you can always hit the brick and not the mortar. Never fasten to mortar, it crumbles with time and you'll have a EV charger on the ground
Agreed - my experience of securing in the mortar, is never do it! - as you say it crumbles, or you end up with a spinning wall plug. On some properties it is tough enough for wall plugs but there is so much variability that its better to stick with going through the brick.
Just keeps on giving ! Your current transformer needs to be before the Henley block to take into account the other household loads.There was another set of tails going to a switched isolator feeding a outbuilding or garage. Good practice to keep meter tails away from Gas pipes. For reference and it’s not an electrical reg. but a gas reg. Meters and associated fittings have to be 150mm from electrical services. Gas pipework has to be 25mm from cabling or be separated by an insulating barrier or the pipework is wrapped in insulating material.
I love watching all these videos as an Australian electrician. Things done differently in different countries. Something's are better, some things worse. Biggest thing for me is the non mechanically protected mains cables. Differences in terminology. "Main Cut-out Fuse" = "Service Fuse". "Consumer Unit" = Switchboard (Main Switchboard if its the first one after the meter). We would use a 100A service fuse on 16mm2 mains, but the power company would have us use a 63A circuit breaker as the main switch so the service fuse is the last resort. We also always have a earth electrode at each installation. Earth is bonded to neutral inside the main switchboard/consumer unit (We call it the MEN link). This is a suposed safety device to keep voltage down to around 80v or so should an exposed part become live but not enough current flows to operate a CB. Those cables clipped to the outside of the wall wouldn't be acceptable here, you would need some kind of mechanical protection, this would normally mean conduit or ducting. However, we basically never use armoured cable.
To truly future proof the install i would also install a cat5 for the data connection of the charger itself in addition to one used for the CT. You could use the same cat5 cable given you only need 2 pairs for a 100mb connection which would be more than adequate leaving 2 pairs for CTs
Great video. As I work on one site for 9 years, I don't get to install or use new equipment or technology as much as I would like. So seeing this in this video is great. Great work. Clint
Do you really prefer to drill (for screws) into the mortar course. I have always found there is a significant risk of sandy/flaky mortar, so I will always choose the bricks to drill into.
Greetings from France, I've been binge-watching your videos last few days and i had to thank you for the content and the quality of your videos / work, as an apprentice i'm learning a lot and it motivated me to make everything look NEAT. Jordan scared me a little on this one when he drilled through the electrical panel, not about the wire because i know Jordan maxed out the "Artisan Angle Drilling" skill. It was about the connections, i don't know if you use the same hole saws but ours would shake the panel so much that sometimes if the installation is old or if the work is (learned that here) "rubbish", screws of the circuit breaker could come loose creating arcing. So we do it power off and we tighten the screws just after. Anyway i was quickly reassured when the connections were tightened but i was surprised that you didnt make the correlation between the vibrations and the loosening. You have a great team and i thank you again for your work and your videos which allowed me to learn even more about our profession. A la prochaine👋
Love watching your CZcams videos and I think I have nearly watched them all. I have one of these fitted some time ago and it does have quite a lot of features as in PV Sola as well and the boost function for the full 7kw. The app is good as well. Keep up the good work,👍
Este es el mejor video en tema de información técnica de cargadores. Me sorprendió que la casa tiene altos consumo y una ducha eléctrica de 32A y agregando ese cargador se debía aumentar a 100A del disyuntor de la compañía eléctrica jajaja. Acá Chile la ducha eléctrica esta prohibido y el disyuntor mínimo que se instala en la caja de medida de la compañía es de 25A y es el consumo típico de las casas chilenas. Buen video Jordan, ¿Nathan volvió o ya no trabaja con ustedes? Saludos!
Just after you released this video my Indra Smart Pro stopped charging after about 5 months service. After a month and at the third time of asking the installer, ChargedEV, finally turned up to look at it. Turns out that the lever lock connector on the live wire of the charging lead had popped open and it had gone open circuit. The electrician said that he was not a fan of the lever lock connectors as he had several instances of them coming unlocked due to the thermal cycling of the copper cores. This simple issue has cost me a month of being able to access my EV charging tariff - I'm a very disgruntled customer.
Hey Jordan! This is amazing video ever...keep the good work going. I feel like coming over to you for internship on EV installations and other related electrical matter especially smart homes design and installations.
Thank you for this video. I'm considering getting a good budget drill just for home DIY things. Do you have recommendations on some that can drill through walls comfortably?
My 1971 bungalow was built with 16mm tails and a 100A service fuse. It also had 3 CU's, one with 4 circuits (cooker 32A, emersion 16A, sockets 32A, lights 6A), one with 2 circuits (Central heating 63A and central heating boost 63A), a 1 ton cast iron block heated for hot air ducted heating and the final one with 3 circuits for 3 extra night store heaters (3* 16A). Pretty sure it was pulling over 100A at times
What an excellent video!! That's really interesting, the charger! OMG, Not good, the gas pipe is too close!! Should be outside. Great job.. Thumbs up! Cheers! 🤟
Jordan, great explanation regarding ownership of the services i.e. DNO, supplier etc, but could you explain the complications for houses with a looped supply, which affects us in older terraced houses? Thanks in advance.
I believe that the vertical distance for Metric brick ( 215L x 102.5W x 65Hmm) is slightly less the the old Imperial size bricks (Pre 1960's) which were 9" x 4" x 3" (230 x 102.5 x 76) - at least the imperial size is what my bricks are.
Very good video interesting. I just picked up my BMW X2 Plugin Hybrid. I can charge with 3 pin socket in the Garage , I will get EV Charger fitted. Thanks for the Video.
32:47 isn't the CT clamp on backwards? It shows the house is drawing -2725 watts on the screen. So you are generating power and putting it back in the grid? That should be a positive number. I assume there is an arrow on the CT clamp or the wiring was reversed on the unit.
The first thing i did in this situation requested isolator to be fitted by supplier so that work to upgrade tails could be carried out Octopus carried this out and allowed upgrades to be completed before calling DNO. How did you go about liasing with DNO, Supplier, like you mentioned this would have been a nightmare, Or did you pull the cut out !!!! Even if you did it would have been a 100% better job if you had fitted an isolator although the tails were very short .
Great vid. How do you rate the Indra against the Hypervolt Home 3 Pro and the PodPoint Solo 3? Be interested to know your thoughts. The Hypervolt has Remote locking of the ev point which is good to stop cheeky undesirables trying to charge when your out or away.
another comment by the way - its kind a nice to me saw still someone else use drill drıvers (nowadays lots of people using impact driver and i dont know why (i think if you are not a carpender it not neccessary )) for screws .
Really nice clear explanation at the top re fuse/meter/consumer unit, thanks Jordan 👍 PS when's the behind the scenes video re EV ultra/Doncaster cables due? (don't think I've missed it?!)
If the CT clamp is attached just under the consumer unit, did it cover all the incoming grid supply? There seemed to be a split (through a Henley block) of the customer tails.
I would put a little plastic or rubber washer behind the mounts screw holes to fill in the gap between the depth of the mortar and the face of the brick where you screwed in the mount so that the mount doesn’t bow when screwed down tight and everything sits flush against the wall…
Did you miss the switched isolator coming of the Henley block , not worth considering ? Did you do a ZE on the 6mm existing Earth ? What rating is that charger 7.2kw ? Why is cable not armoured ? It’s going down the drive
Ref your comment about the age of the incoming mains....... I had the DNO out recently to replace the meter board and uprate the incoming fuse, and I asked whether the age (64 years) of the incomer was an issue...... he said that (in his opinion) it was better quality than the stuff they put in new installs..... So, who knows? I would echo others with not going into mortar lines with fixings.....And whilst the idea of putting the mounting holes at standard brick/block spacings is great in theory, I don't think they've ever been out on site and measured real life brickwork! Which leads to the worst of both worlds of holes half in/half out on the edge of mortar lines. Middle of the brick every time!
I had exactly the same comment recently. DNO fixed a high Ze (1.5ohm) on a TN-S supply, old lead/paper/tar cable from either the 60s or possibly even the 1930s. Asked the guy if the cable was deteriorating and he said it was fine and would last longer than any replacement they could put in. (Fix was shorting N-E in a new junction about half way back to the road, Ze now down to 0.25. I suppose/hope the road supply was already PME?) .
With networking cable, if you use 2 pair, you have a 100mbps link. If you use all 4 pairs you will have a 1gbps link. You cannot have CTs and ethernet in the same cable as the CT will interfere with the Lan connection and cause it to drop all the time.
Great video, can you answer a question for me. I have a BP pulse (new WiFi version) that is useless. A friend gave me a Podpoint. He has had his name removed from the charger so he’s no longer associated with the charger. Can I have this installed to replace the BP pulse. Thanks! Malc.
Are there ev chargers with dynamic load balancing that work with a off grid system that charge more when there is sun and know the status of the battery?
A small block of wood when you're drilling towards a gas pipe and the internals of the CU. Those screws are not nails and drill into the brick not the weak mortar.
I’m sure it won’t be long before security cabinets for charging points will become necessary, to inhibit people nicking your charging point and cable. ‘Security’ screws are a bit of gimmick.
Bonding clamp on paper Lead armoured 🙈, 3m of flexi tails and no switch fuse isolator 🙈 and fixing into courses instead of bricks 🙄, and board right near gas meter and pipe work
Whilst I agree with the upgraded tails. Back in the day 16mm was always used on 100A supplies. And the incoming PILC cable will be 16mm 😂 Great job though
Anyone else just think that to get Electric cars a viable proposition for EVERYONE is pie in the sky!!! Just had my survey done and the amount of work involved infitting to a ' relatively ' modern terrace house was ridiculous. Goodness knows what woukd have been needed in my old Victorian terrace house... What a load of Green Bollox!!!!
Fun fact. On the data cable you if fit clamps to the blue and brown pairs you can still use the other pairs for a 100mb network connection. also, I may have lied about this fact being fun.
Not going to lie, that charger looks like a cheap soap dispenser. Would be ok inside a garage, but would not want that fitted in a visible location outside my house. I understand your reasons for screwing into mortar, but mortar degrades over time hence why houses need repointing (process of renewing the mortar between the bricks) after so many years. Personally would feel more comfortable seeing it installed to brick work so its more secure, especially on a charger where the cable is going to be pulled about to plug into a car. As always though, nice professional install other than that :)
23:32 I was under the impression you should not have cable inside a CU that is not rated for 240v, the cat5 is surely not, should it have been hived off inside a wiska before passing through the conductors?
None of the inner conductors are exposed in the CU, it's only the cat5e sheath. If the cat5e sheath wasn't rated for 240V then it also wouldn't be rated for being inside that NYY-J cable at all?
@@havoctrousers yes my thoughts exactly, it seems the cable does not conform to a specific BS standard as yet anyway, just that you should follow the manufacturer’s instructions/guidance.
Looking at that EV cable with the cat5 cable inside, I was always told keep your data cables away from electrical cables due to the interference and degraded network signals. Is this not the case these days?
Interference just isn't that big of an issue. Remember that the electromagnetic fields around the live and neutral wires are the same but opposite polarity. That along with them being gently twisted along the length of the cable ensures effective cancellation and thus induction into adjacent cables isn't a significant issue. For the same reason, if measuring current with a clamp meter you have to put it around one wire only as if you put it around the whole cable you get a zero reading. In addition, the wires in the CAT cable are arranged as twisted pairs for the purpose of common mode rejection. Shielding isn't relevant to EM fields, it's purpose if present is for rejecting RFI.
These are digital, not analogue signals...using twisted pairs and a floating data ground...most modern ethernet devices can withstand and maintain the required data throughput these days
In regards to the incoming fuse upgrade if the property had very little load ie, no electric shower and bog standard 3kw oven is there any real need to upgrade the fuse? I have 60amp fuse on my incomer and at some point i want to get an ev charger fitted (spare ways on the board). I cant see why i would need to upgrade when my max load would only get to say 45-50 amps
I’m hopeless at anything DIY related. Why am I then interested in all these videos? Weird. Good to see Reuben in a video recently,. Began to get worried he was no longer with you.
Did you request the upgrade from the DNO prior to the install when notifying them of the intention to install? Also does the DNO in this area upgrade to 100A for free? I’ve heard that western power want over £1000 to upgrade to a 100A fuse.
UKPN will upgrade for free, the exception being if it's a looped supply when they'll only upgrade to 80A, to go to 100A you need to be unlooped, at which point the way it works is you pay for the work on your property, they'll cover the cost for next door (so in some situations may be worth talking to your neighbour as if both want to be unlooped you can work out who is best to request it to keep the cost down, normally I'd imagine the person who already has the incoming cable from the street as more work will be needed next door)
Western Power Networks un-looped, ran 3-phase to my gate and upgraded to 100A for free, once they were notified I had a Hypervolt installed and I was looped. As I was the end of the loop, I could not tell it was so.
Western power will check and upgrade the fuse and cutout for free if required but you can only have a 100a fuse if the cutout is in free air for cooling so if you have a meter box it's 80a max in a cupboard would be 80a or under the stairs
I agree there is an issue here. I can't quite see the route of the tails, but if less than 50mm from gas pipes they need shielding. But the flexi gas pipe just below the CU definitely needs shielding since it is within 150mm of the switchgear / CU.
Hey Jordan, I have indra smart pro and also the vw t6.1 abt advance model. Got it in May last year and the van only clocked 700 miles and has been with vw tech center broken since July. Apparently broken charge controller and a full battery pack replacement. I do wonder if the indra caused that catastrophic failure.
Unlikely. That device from Indra, to hang on the wall, is an 'EVSE' that is there to ensure the electrical connection is switched on after the plug is properly inserted into the car. (among other features). It offers the car the opportunity to pull AC power. it offers permits, but does not decide the details of the charging process. The actual charger that takes mains AC power and converts it to DC current that a battery can be charged with, and regulates the current to levels that are safe for the specific battery in that specific car, is inside the car. Even though Indra call its product a "charger" in its sales brochure, it is not what one would call a 'charge controller'. A good design would have multiple layers of defence, that will stop a fault on the EVSE connection to be passed on to electronics in the car handling the charging protection of the battery. It sounds very extreme that both electronics and battery needs to be replaced, rather than replacing smaller pieces. That might be due to lack of diagnostics. If the actual battery in the battery pack has become damaged, it is very very odd.
@@stephenrussell5751 I think Jordan has been having problems with his VW EV van too, I think VW are late to the EV 'party' and rushed the technology through
Let us know your thoughts on the Indra Smart Pro Charger. Make sure you’re subscribed to our Channel with Notifications on - bit.ly/3nqFpXp-ArtisanElectrics
I've had mine for three months and can't fault it. The app is fairly decent, clear billing section and easy to use. It also supports Octopus Go and Agile to charge when it's the cheapest slots. Rumor has it SoC is coming soon, rather than just idle/boosting etc.
Can you do a video based on Indra's V2G/V2H charger, uses Chademo bidirectional to send it back into the house or grid. CCS soon 🤞
Can it be set up to vary charging to avoid sending my spare solar back to the grid ?
I much prefer the look of the Andersen, Indra and Zappi to the Hypervolt, which looks so untidy with its separate holster and extra 4 holes that need to be drilled for it. I can’t believe the awful Rolec Wallpods like Jordan ripped out are still being fitted, but they are on a new build housing estate near me.
@@gadgetman36 I think Anderson wins on style, I would take the Hypervolt over Indra Smart Pro even with the separate holster. The Zappi literally looks like a toilet seat but is a decent EVSE (just need to order in black 😜)
Hmmm, one point. personally if I want something screwed securely into a wall I'd never ever go into the mortar, fixing into the brick invariably gives a 'more' spherical hole which enables the rawl plug to grip correctly. After 50 years of many different fixings I can well remember the blocks of wood hammered in to a gouged out mortar line, as the mortar degrades fixings become loose .... in brick they stay fixed.
Still calling them Rawl Plugs, eh? If you were on the Fischer Duos you wouldn’t be so worried where you placed them!
I'm all about using the wall dog screws when mounting EV chargerd
@@biaelectric9066 Hi there, yup, still calling them 'rawl' plugs, more as a generic term and it's what Jordan referred to them as. I've never tried 'Fischer Duos' and I'm sure they are admirable but checking their website pictures they don't actually show any of them going in the mortar line.
I was merely making the point that in my opinion, any fixing is much more secure in brick than mortar, it's 15 years since I retired but I doubt mortar has improved. Having said all that, an EV charger probably has a limited lifespan and will no doubt be replaced long before the mortar crumbles.
(I was never worried where I placed my fixings as they always went into brick) :-)
@@GeordieDashCam actually, although I agree with your comment regarding drilling the brick and not the mortar line, the plugs Jordan used are made by Rawlplug, so in this case it was the correct nomenclature.
It’s the awesome drilling crew again , always in the mortar!!!! He will never learn.
This chargepoint is a hell of alot smarter than mentioned, the PEN fault settings are selectable dependant on the installation and reference earthing especially if you have solar pv to avoid nuisance tripping. This manufacturer is one to watch as they are ticking alot of the boxes for the future installations.
13:37 no it's spaced so you can always hit the brick and not the mortar. Never fasten to mortar, it crumbles with time and you'll have a EV charger on the ground
Agreed - my experience of securing in the mortar, is never do it! - as you say it crumbles, or you end up with a spinning wall plug. On some properties it is tough enough for wall plugs but there is so much variability that its better to stick with going through the brick.
Just keeps on giving !
Your current transformer needs to be before the Henley block to take into account the other household loads.There was another set of tails going to a switched isolator feeding a outbuilding or garage.
Good practice to keep meter tails away from Gas pipes.
For reference and it’s not an electrical reg. but a gas reg. Meters and associated fittings have to be 150mm from electrical services. Gas pipework has to be 25mm from cabling or be separated by an insulating barrier or the pipework is wrapped in insulating material.
I love watching all these videos as an Australian electrician. Things done differently in different countries. Something's are better, some things worse. Biggest thing for me is the non mechanically protected mains cables. Differences in terminology. "Main Cut-out Fuse" = "Service Fuse". "Consumer Unit" = Switchboard (Main Switchboard if its the first one after the meter). We would use a 100A service fuse on 16mm2 mains, but the power company would have us use a 63A circuit breaker as the main switch so the service fuse is the last resort. We also always have a earth electrode at each installation. Earth is bonded to neutral inside the main switchboard/consumer unit (We call it the MEN link). This is a suposed safety device to keep voltage down to around 80v or so should an exposed part become live but not enough current flows to operate a CB.
Those cables clipped to the outside of the wall wouldn't be acceptable here, you would need some kind of mechanical protection, this would normally mean conduit or ducting. However, we basically never use armoured cable.
Wera tools: simply the best. That's probably the deepest explanation I could get. Thanks
Excellent video Jordan, so clearly explained. Will be using this to help explain electrical installations to new ones!
Nice job Jordan!! I Ike the smart features of the charger, it’s good to see those type of capabilities!
I have one of these fitted, been very impressed with it.
To truly future proof the install i would also install a cat5 for the data connection of the charger itself in addition to one used for the CT. You could use the same cat5 cable given you only need 2 pairs for a 100mb connection which would be more than adequate leaving 2 pairs for CTs
Great video. As I work on one site for 9 years, I don't get to install or use new equipment or technology as much as I would like. So seeing this in this video is great. Great work. Clint
Do you really prefer to drill (for screws) into the mortar course. I have always found there is a significant risk of sandy/flaky mortar, so I will always choose the bricks to drill into.
Same
I thought everyone did this, really surprised to see Jordan fixing to the mortar.
It is considered bad practice ! Only to be entertained If the bricks are crumbling and the mortar is better.
@@LoudAsFuckk Ditto, dislike fixings in motar.
Greetings from France,
I've been binge-watching your videos last few days and i had to thank you for the content and the quality of your videos / work, as an apprentice i'm learning a lot and it motivated me to make everything look NEAT.
Jordan scared me a little on this one when he drilled through the electrical panel, not about the wire because i know Jordan maxed out the "Artisan Angle Drilling" skill.
It was about the connections, i don't know if you use the same hole saws but ours would shake the panel so much that sometimes if the installation is old or if the work is (learned that here) "rubbish", screws of the circuit breaker could come loose creating arcing. So we do it power off and we tighten the screws just after.
Anyway i was quickly reassured when the connections were tightened but i was surprised that you didnt make the correlation between the vibrations and the loosening.
You have a great team and i thank you again for your work and your videos which allowed me to learn even more about our profession.
A la prochaine👋
Great video. Really informative and showed all the steps for the installation. Top work!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love watching your CZcams videos and I think I have nearly watched them all. I have one of these fitted some time ago and it does have quite a lot of features as in PV Sola as well and the boost function for the full 7kw. The app is good as well.
Keep up the good work,👍
One of, if not THE most engaging informative EV install videos I’ve seen. Keep it up Jordan !
Thanks very much!
One of the top easy explained EV charger installation ,Well done
Excellent
Thanks Jordan for sharing !
Este es el mejor video en tema de información técnica de cargadores. Me sorprendió que la casa tiene altos consumo y una ducha eléctrica de 32A y agregando ese cargador se debía aumentar a 100A del disyuntor de la compañía eléctrica jajaja. Acá Chile la ducha eléctrica esta prohibido y el disyuntor mínimo que se instala en la caja de medida de la compañía es de 25A y es el consumo típico de las casas chilenas.
Buen video Jordan, ¿Nathan volvió o ya no trabaja con ustedes?
Saludos!
Really dig the Smartface tune. Thanks!!
Just after you released this video my Indra Smart Pro stopped charging after about 5 months service. After a month and at the third time of asking the installer, ChargedEV, finally turned up to look at it. Turns out that the lever lock connector on the live wire of the charging lead had popped open and it had gone open circuit. The electrician said that he was not a fan of the lever lock connectors as he had several instances of them coming unlocked due to the thermal cycling of the copper cores. This simple issue has cost me a month of being able to access my EV charging tariff - I'm a very disgruntled customer.
Happened with the neutral with me. Now I'm waiting for a solid red light fix
Screw terminals provided they’re tightened properly are more reliable IMO
Hey Jordan!
This is amazing video ever...keep the good work going.
I feel like coming over to you for internship on EV installations and other related electrical matter especially smart homes design and installations.
Great watch, very informative as always mate. Keep them coming in 👍🏽
Thanks 👍
13:49 or it ensures you always miss the mortar to make sure you get a solid fixing into the brick🤔
A pro never misses
Thank you for this video.
I'm considering getting a good budget drill just for home DIY things.
Do you have recommendations on some that can drill through walls comfortably?
My 1971 bungalow was built with 16mm tails and a 100A service fuse. It also had 3 CU's, one with 4 circuits (cooker 32A, emersion 16A, sockets 32A, lights 6A), one with 2 circuits (Central heating 63A and central heating boost 63A), a 1 ton cast iron block heated for hot air ducted heating and the final one with 3 circuits for 3 extra night store heaters (3* 16A).
Pretty sure it was pulling over 100A at times
What an excellent video!! That's really interesting, the charger! OMG, Not good, the gas pipe is too close!! Should be outside. Great job.. Thumbs up! Cheers! 🤟
That CT clamp should be before the split!
Only measuring half of the bloody house!
Jordan, great explanation regarding ownership of the services i.e. DNO, supplier etc, but could you explain the complications for houses with a looped supply, which affects us in older terraced houses? Thanks in advance.
I believe that the vertical distance for Metric brick ( 215L x 102.5W x 65Hmm) is slightly less the the old Imperial size bricks (Pre 1960's) which were 9" x 4" x 3" (230 x 102.5 x 76) - at least the imperial size is what my bricks are.
Very nice presentation, Jordan. Informative without dragging on with every tiny detailed. You seemed more comfortable making this vid. Good on you.
It's always a good day when the notification pops up from CZcams saying Artisan have uploaded!
well done Jordan ,
Nice use of PPE Jordan!
you are supposedto drill into the brick, spacing in brackets will also serve to avoid mortar
28:10 No conduit fill regs over there, that seems really tight! 😎👍
Wow if that hole saw had just pushed through while u blinked that neutral was well mangled
Shouldn't the CT clamp be on the incoming meter tails before the Henley block?
Hi Jordan I was of the understanding that the charger had to be on a Double Pole RCD or RCBO.
Very good video interesting. I just picked up my BMW X2 Plugin Hybrid. I can charge with 3 pin socket in the Garage , I will get EV Charger fitted. Thanks for the Video.
32:47 isn't the CT clamp on backwards? It shows the house is drawing -2725 watts on the screen. So you are generating power and putting it back in the grid? That should be a positive number. I assume there is an arrow on the CT clamp or the wiring was reversed on the unit.
The first thing i did in this situation requested isolator to be fitted by supplier so that work to upgrade tails could be carried out Octopus carried this out and allowed upgrades to be completed before calling DNO. How did you go about liasing with DNO, Supplier, like you mentioned this would have been a nightmare, Or did you pull the cut out !!!! Even if you did it would have been a 100% better job if you had fitted an isolator although the tails were very short .
Nice job
I tend to fit the lower energy water heaters, they can be run on 1.5mm2 3C+E, lower bills, but must have separate circuit depending on water capacity.
Great vid. How do you rate the Indra against the Hypervolt Home 3 Pro and the PodPoint Solo 3? Be interested to know your thoughts. The Hypervolt has Remote locking of the ev point which is good to stop cheeky undesirables trying to charge when your out or away.
Shouldn’t the CT be before the Henley block split? Also CT was backwards, since reading negative values in app.
28:45 Not to be Safety Sally, and call you out, but is that a proper torque screwdriver for those terminal connections? (Just asking for Cory!) 😜😁
its a smart charger for sure but looks wise I'm not a fan of it. good to see you back on the tools jordan👍🏻
are you allowed to clip the CT to the tails inside the CU?
another comment by the way - its kind a nice to me saw still someone else use drill drıvers (nowadays lots of people using impact driver and i dont know why (i think if you are not a carpender it not neccessary )) for screws .
If you screw a lot of screws a day your wrist will be hurt. Mostly of course if you screw larger screws like 6x100mm etc
Really nice clear explanation at the top re fuse/meter/consumer unit, thanks Jordan 👍 PS when's the behind the scenes video re EV ultra/Doncaster cables due? (don't think I've missed it?!)
The factory tour will be coming out soon 👍🏻
Great video got my EAL ev charging course in 2 weeks how did you find it Jordan?
Great video. 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it
If the CT clamp is attached just under the consumer unit, did it cover all the incoming grid supply? There seemed to be a split (through a Henley block) of the customer tails.
Of course, it is in a wrong place!
If you look closely you can see the switch is off, my guess it’s an old economy 7 install
The other tails went to that ancient fused isolator with piro coming out of it probably a garage supply
It doesn’t look like it. Curious also why it was reading a negative number. I think it was the wrong way around.
Good vid, camera work excellent 👌
👌🏼
That’s what happens when u set up a media company and use camera men/ women instead of raw electricians showing themselves graft
Your videos are so helpful for an apprentice like me, keep it up
Good to hear!
Security screws is better than snapping. I hate opening snap products when it’s -10,15 degrees celsius and the material just breaks.
I would put a little plastic or rubber washer behind the mounts screw holes to fill in the gap between the depth of the mortar and the face of the brick where you screwed in the mount so that the mount doesn’t bow when screwed down tight and everything sits flush against the wall…
My question is, could the client set up different accounts for different users if there were 2 or 3 EVs in the home?
We have this charger constantly needs testing
Did you miss the switched isolator coming of the Henley block , not worth considering ?
Did you do a ZE on the 6mm existing Earth ?
What rating is that charger 7.2kw ?
Why is cable not armoured ? It’s going down the drive
Ref your comment about the age of the incoming mains....... I had the DNO out recently to replace the meter board and uprate the incoming fuse, and I asked whether the age (64 years) of the incomer was an issue...... he said that (in his opinion) it was better quality than the stuff they put in new installs..... So, who knows?
I would echo others with not going into mortar lines with fixings.....And whilst the idea of putting the mounting holes at standard brick/block spacings is great in theory, I don't think they've ever been out on site and measured real life brickwork! Which leads to the worst of both worlds of holes half in/half out on the edge of mortar lines. Middle of the brick every time!
Mortar fixings is just for ease and use the mortar line as a guide
I had exactly the same comment recently. DNO fixed a high Ze (1.5ohm) on a TN-S supply, old lead/paper/tar cable from either the 60s or possibly even the 1930s. Asked the guy if the cable was deteriorating and he said it was fine and would last longer than any replacement they could put in. (Fix was shorting N-E in a new junction about half way back to the road, Ze now down to 0.25. I suppose/hope the road supply was already PME?) .
The old paper lead cables were much better made than the new plastic cables unless it's a joint or damage the cables very rarely fail
With networking cable, if you use 2 pair, you have a 100mbps link. If you use all 4 pairs you will have a 1gbps link.
You cannot have CTs and ethernet in the same cable as the CT will interfere with the Lan connection and cause it to drop all the time.
Keep the pair twist intact when terminating the ends...this limits the cross-talk between the data-pairs.
Nice work man
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video, can you answer a question for me. I have a BP pulse (new WiFi version) that is useless. A friend gave me a Podpoint. He has had his name removed from the charger so he’s no longer associated with the charger. Can I have this installed to replace the BP pulse. Thanks! Malc.
Are there ev chargers with dynamic load balancing that work with a off grid system that charge more when there is sun and know the status of the battery?
Are you using a torque screwdriver on the DB?
Was the CT giving a negative reading i.e it was installed the wrong way around?
I have the Indra, but like your man, waiting for my car (was due end Jan, now May 😏) Nice video 👍
Awesome! What vehicle do you have on the way?
Nissan Leaf (the 62kwh one)
Nice!
Have you looked into the SMA one? Can't think of a SMArter one :)
A small block of wood when you're drilling towards a gas pipe and the internals of the CU. Those screws are not nails and drill into the brick not the weak mortar.
I’m sure it won’t be long before security cabinets for charging points will become necessary, to inhibit people nicking your charging point and cable. ‘Security’ screws are a bit of gimmick.
Bonding clamp on paper Lead armoured 🙈, 3m of flexi tails and no switch fuse isolator 🙈 and fixing into courses instead of bricks 🙄, and board right near gas meter and pipe work
Very surprised the Power supply inside is Open frame style or PCB style. Curious about long term life time with moisture, temp .
USA home standard is one 200amp panel w/split phase.
Did anyone spot Jordan had fitted the CT clamp the wrong way round? 32:30 shows a negative current draw,. Unless of course there’s solar PV.
I was just looking for this comment
Whilst I agree with the upgraded tails. Back in the day 16mm was always used on 100A supplies. And the incoming PILC cable will be 16mm 😂
Great job though
The main fuse doesn't protect the dno cable, it protects the meter tails.
Fischer Duopower are king of wall plugs, no comparison
Amen to that
Anyone else just think that to get Electric cars a viable proposition for EVERYONE is pie in the sky!!!
Just had my survey done and the amount of work involved infitting to a ' relatively ' modern terrace house was ridiculous.
Goodness knows what woukd have been needed in my old Victorian terrace house...
What a load of Green Bollox!!!!
Fun fact. On the data cable you if fit clamps to the blue and brown pairs you can still use the other pairs for a 100mb network connection. also, I may have lied about this fact being fun.
Sir, no crimps into those terminals? 20:34
What is the installation cost may be for such installation in UK?
Also, the spelling of Rawl plug
Respect John Joseph Rawlings
Is a 32amp mcb enough for a unit that can draw up to 32amps?
Not going to lie, that charger looks like a cheap soap dispenser. Would be ok inside a garage, but would not want that fitted in a visible location outside my house.
I understand your reasons for screwing into mortar, but mortar degrades over time hence why houses need repointing (process of renewing the mortar between the bricks) after so many years. Personally would feel more comfortable seeing it installed to brick work so its more secure, especially on a charger where the cable is going to be pulled about to plug into a car.
As always though, nice professional install other than that :)
23:32 I was under the impression you should not have cable inside a CU that is not rated for 240v, the cat5 is surely not, should it have been hived off inside a wiska before passing through the conductors?
None of the inner conductors are exposed in the CU, it's only the cat5e sheath. If the cat5e sheath wasn't rated for 240V then it also wouldn't be rated for being inside that NYY-J cable at all?
@@havoctrousers yes my thoughts exactly, it seems the cable does not conform to a specific BS standard as yet anyway, just that you should follow the manufacturer’s instructions/guidance.
I don’t think the data cable should be incorporated inside a 240v cable anyway
Looking at that EV cable with the cat5 cable inside, I was always told keep your data cables away from electrical cables due to the interference and degraded network signals. Is this not the case these days?
Generally the Cat5e is shielded inside EV Ultra-type cables.
@@MrBobmeadows shielding only works if one end is grounded, didn't use a shielded cat 5 plug or ground the other end?
Interference just isn't that big of an issue. Remember that the electromagnetic fields around the live and neutral wires are the same but opposite polarity. That along with them being gently twisted along the length of the cable ensures effective cancellation and thus induction into adjacent cables isn't a significant issue. For the same reason, if measuring current with a clamp meter you have to put it around one wire only as if you put it around the whole cable you get a zero reading. In addition, the wires in the CAT cable are arranged as twisted pairs for the purpose of common mode rejection.
Shielding isn't relevant to EM fields, it's purpose if present is for rejecting RFI.
These are digital, not analogue signals...using twisted pairs and a floating data ground...most modern ethernet devices can withstand and maintain the required data throughput these days
Should you have not added you link cable when you null leads R1 R2
why would you not want security screws on the cover??
Does it work with solar panels in the way that Myenergi’s Zappi can.
Still nothing new zappi does all of this and more.
In regards to the incoming fuse upgrade if the property had very little load ie, no electric shower and bog standard 3kw oven is there any real need to upgrade the fuse? I have 60amp fuse on my incomer and at some point i want to get an ev charger fitted (spare ways on the board). I cant see why i would need to upgrade when my max load would only get to say 45-50 amps
If your installer fits ALM then no upgrade is required.
No if you're smart or have load management you'll be fine
I’m hopeless at anything DIY related. Why am I then interested in all these videos? Weird. Good to see Reuben in a video recently,. Began to get worried he was no longer with you.
I never drill into mortar, it can collapse, prefer brick, much sturdier.
Did you request the upgrade from the DNO prior to the install when notifying them of the intention to install?
Also does the DNO in this area upgrade to 100A for free? I’ve heard that western power want over £1000 to upgrade to a 100A fuse.
UKPN will upgrade for free, the exception being if it's a looped supply when they'll only upgrade to 80A, to go to 100A you need to be unlooped, at which point the way it works is you pay for the work on your property, they'll cover the cost for next door (so in some situations may be worth talking to your neighbour as if both want to be unlooped you can work out who is best to request it to keep the cost down, normally I'd imagine the person who already has the incoming cable from the street as more work will be needed next door)
Had ours upgraded by Western Power and they didn't charge a penny.
Western Power Networks un-looped, ran 3-phase to my gate and upgraded to 100A for free, once they were notified I had a Hypervolt installed and I was looped. As I was the end of the loop, I could not tell it was so.
Western power will check and upgrade the fuse and cutout for free if required but you can only have a 100a fuse if the cutout is in free air for cooling so if you have a meter box it's 80a max in a cupboard would be 80a or under the stairs
Hi Jordan. Please tell me that in the clips from 22:40 to 22:50 you had the main fuse removed?
Yes he did you can see it's missing when they are pulling the tails through the conduit
@@haldo691 I was just a little concerned as all the breakers, rcds and main switch were still switched on.
Question shouldn’t the consumers tails from fuse box be shielded as they seem to close to gas meter
I agree there is an issue here. I can't quite see the route of the tails, but if less than 50mm from gas pipes they need shielding. But the flexi gas pipe just below the CU definitely needs shielding since it is within 150mm of the switchgear / CU.
First time I've heard an electrician say that the closeness of a gas line to a consumer unit is "great".
it does seem strange that the CU is right next to the incoming gas, not the best position
I presume you drilled upwards as well to stop water going down the cable. Haven't seen the end yet so I presume again you use sealant
Hey Jordan,
I have indra smart pro and also the vw t6.1 abt advance model. Got it in May last year and the van only clocked 700 miles and has been with vw tech center broken since July. Apparently broken charge controller and a full battery pack replacement. I do wonder if the indra caused that catastrophic failure.
Can't see how the charger could damage the vehicle all it does is tell the car howmuch power is available to charge with
Unlikely.
That device from Indra, to hang on the wall, is an 'EVSE' that is there to ensure the electrical connection is switched on after the plug is properly inserted into the car. (among other features). It offers the car the opportunity to pull AC power. it offers permits, but does not decide the details of the charging process.
The actual charger that takes mains AC power and converts it to DC current that a battery can be charged with, and regulates the current to levels that are safe for the specific battery in that specific car, is inside the car.
Even though Indra call its product a "charger" in its sales brochure, it is not what one would call a 'charge controller'.
A good design would have multiple layers of defence, that will stop a fault on the EVSE connection to be passed on to electronics in the car handling the charging protection of the battery. It sounds very extreme that both electronics and battery needs to be replaced, rather than replacing smaller pieces. That might be due to lack of diagnostics. If the actual battery in the battery pack has become damaged, it is very very odd.
@@NikolaiBeier yeah it is strange. They have had the van since July!
@@stephenrussell5751 I think Jordan has been having problems with his VW EV van too, I think VW are late to the EV 'party' and rushed the technology through
@@jonnysegway7866 agreed