Can you Unscrew and Rescrew a Fischer UX6 Universal Fixing?
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- So, here's my first Q&A, answering a question I received in the Comments feed below my Best Plasterboard Fixings 2017 video.
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Nicky wanted to know if you can unscrew and rescrew a Fischer UX6 fixing - a very good question that I get asked quite a lot.
The answer is that you can, so long as you drive the screw back in at the same angle (preferably 90 degrees to the plasterboard) as the original screw.
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Thanks for sound advice fitted our blinds easily after watching your video cheers buddy
You're very welcome, Thomas. Glad you found it useful!
Hi Charlie, huge fan of your videos. I'm thinking of using the duopower to hang a mirror on plasterboard. As I understand I will need to drill the screw all the way in for it to work, and then unscrew slightly to leave a gap for hanging? Is this correct? Thanks!
Hi Charlie, I’m a total newbie at home DIY, your videos have taught me so much, thanks for your effort! One question, I hammered an UX8 into a dot & dab thermalite wall but then I found it in the wrong position. I haven’t screwed in any screw yet. How can I remove the plug from the wall safely so I can fill the hole?
Take a screw and screw it into the fixing just enough for it to bite, and then use the claw on your claw hammer to lever it out, ideally with a piece of wood between the hammer and the wall to prevent you damaging the wall with the hammer. If the screw pulls out before pulling out the fixing, you haven't screwed it in far enough. If for whatever reason you can't get it out, you've got two options. 1) you could get a stanley knife and rotate it around the outside of the hole, cutting off the outside of the fixing so that it's no longer flush with the surface. You can then fill the hole, leaving the fixing in place. 2) You could get a screw with a large diameter (eg 6mm) screw it in a few turns and then hammer the fixing further into the hole. Remove the screw and fill on top of it. Hope that helps!
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks so much for your detailed reply! I just tried and the plug can be pulled out slowly. Two more questions: 1) After I removed the plug, is the hole still usable if I insert the plug again? 2) If I unscrew and rescrew the UX8 in dot & dab thermalite wall, will the holding power still be the same?
Charlie DIYte I’ve successfully removed the plug and fixed the curtain pole bracket to the correct position. It seems secure for now but frankly I’m not too confident about the UX8 in a thermalite wall. In the future if it’s becoming loose, can I remove the plug and fill the hole with Toupret TX110, then drill and reuse the hole again?
I just bought a box of UX 6x50mm, and the box says to use screws from 4-5mm 🤷♂ I"ve only used them once or twice so far, but 10mm seemed to work ok so far. Though in that case it was a combination of drwall (plasterboard) and brick, with a gap in between. Maybe results would vary in drywall only.
Dan if you have a minute check out my recent update video czcams.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/video.html You're right though. 4-5mm in plaster board. Anything more and it'll spin. However if it's in brick it works differently (compression rather than knotting up) so you can get away with a wider diameter. It won't be 10mm though. You'd never get that into the fixing.
Hi, can you tell me the best way to remove old UX6 fixings from plasterboard. Also the best way to fix curtain pole brackets when the holes are very close together. Thanks.
Hi Clive, the safest option (because it guarantees you won't damage the wall around the fixing) is to get a large screw (diameter 5 or 6 mm) or something of a similar shape, insert it in the fixing and then lightly tap the fixing further into the wall. A couple of anticlockwise turns on the screw with your finger, and it should come loose, leaving the fixing to fall harmlessly down the back of the wall.
The other option is to try and pull the fixing out of the wall - either by inserting a thin diameter screw (eg 4mm diameter) or by grabbing the collar of the fixing with some long nosed pliers and gently tease it out of the hole. If it doesn't come out easily be wary, as this probably suggests it's still slightly knotted behind the plasterboard, so if you pull too hard it may pull some plaster away as it comes out.
If the holes are very close together and you're fixing into plasterboard it can be a little tricky. If you have three fixing points in a triangle type configuration, I typically tilt the bracket so that you have two screws on the horizontal plain and the third immediately below them in the middle. I then only use the top two screws as the third one below isn't bearing any load. That helps to preserve the integrity of the plasterboard.
In terms of fixings in this scenario, my favoured fixings for plasterboard are the Fischer UX6, or the Fischer PD8 if your holes are very close together, as they take up very little space as they knot up behind the plasterboard. With the UX6 you have to make sure you use the right screw though, as I showed you in this vid goo.gl/tt2cYt as if the screw is too wide in diameter the fixing won't knot up properly.
For a heavy load I tend to use hollow wall anchors, or you could try the new Fischer Duopower 8x40mm.
Thank you for a very detailed reply and super fast too !
You're welcome, Clive. Any time!
While I'm here, what is your opinion of fitting a roller blind using the window side recess instead of drilling the top and encountering the lintel?
I don't do this very often - more typically screwing into the top or into the window frame itself. You can of course screw into the side of the window recess - and this is a good option where your blind is heavy and/or the ceiling fixing isn't that good, but it does mean you'll have to screw through the bracket cover, assuming your roller blind comes supplied with bracket covers and you want to use them. The main issue with screwing into the side recess is that your blind needs to be exactly the right width - otherwise you'll have to put packers in between the bracket and the wall, and this will look untidy. If you encounter steel in the recess, check out this little trick to screw into it goo.gl/mj4SQ8 If the lintel is concrete, then an SDS drill is your best option.
Hi charlie Love your vidoes. Can I use UX6 to secure a batten to hold a bannister. In your opinion is this the best "plug for plasterboard.
Thanks
What screw size are you using here? Diameter and length?
Are these plugs ok you use on dot and dab walls. I received UX8 with my tv bracket and the tv weights 30kg
Hi Charlie, what about Fisher Duopower, can I reuse it? Also, what's the best way to remove them?
In a big fan of the Duopower. They've pretty much replaced the UX6 in my tool box. Harder to remove because of the way they open up. You could try and prise it out bit of that doesn't work your best bet would be to gently bore off the outer lip with a larger drill bit or maybe a razor blade and push it into the wall (assuming of course you're fixing into plasterboard).
@@CharlieDIYte thanks for the quick reply Charlie. Have you ever tried reusing it? Ie. Unscrew and re-screw on the same plug?
@@elyj90 Should be fine. Just be careful when reinserting the screw to do so at the same angle that it was in previously so that the screw goes down the same thread it created in the plug the first time.
@@CharlieDIYte thanks!
Thanks for this. I bought a pack each of the UX 6, 8 and 10 a while ago and had them sitting in my box, but never really grabbed them because I was using the DuoPower 6x30 and was happy with them (5x40 gold screws, mounting electrical boxes mainly). But recently I decided to start using the UX 6 and have been happy too, but haven't tried in plaster board yet. I'd say a 45 or 50 mm long screw is probably best with UX 6 since it's 35m long. I standardized on 5 mm diameter screws for plug use, so might get some 4.5 mm screws for that particular purpose. Although since I've got the 8 mm plugs, would you say a 5 mm screw in a 8mm plug will have the same effect as 4.5 mm screw in 6mm plug? I have to test that.
I used to love the UX6 but in recent tests it's been rubbish czcams.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/video.htmlsi=JV4rIB2JMSn_Eara so my advice would be to stick to the Duopower or one of the others I recommend in this vid.
@@CharlieDIYte Thank you for your reply! I recently used a bunch of UX 6 to fix skirting to solid walls and of course they work just fine in that application. I've used quite a few DuoPower 6x30, but never had the 8x40, so will be getting some for sure. Oddly I actually have the 8x65 and 6x50 but haven't got round to the 8x40 yet. I really enjoy having a box full of all these fixings, I can always grab the right thing with confidence.
Hi Charlie can you remove theses and other plasterboard fixings from the wall?
Thanks
Jessica
It very much depends on what fixings you've used as some mushroom out/ knot up behind the plaster board making them very hard to remove. Your best bet is to tap them further into the wall and they'll drop down harmlessly behind the plasterboard.
Thanks for the content, really useful. Can you add the fisher duopower to the line up? Ta
Hi Paul - I agree, the Duopower is awesome! I did a sneak preview of it at the end of this video czcams.com/video/qwVnoaY5eVc/video.html
Charlie DIYte Ah brilliant! Used them yesterday and they seem to be pretty solid though I've not used any of the others except the hollow wall anchors
Hi Paul - yep, I've used them a couple of times at work, and they're even more solid than the UX6. I think you just need to make sure you use the right diameter screws depending on what you want them to do, because I suspect with a nice thin screw like a 4mm they open out like they did in my video, but with a larger diameter screw they will probably knot up instead. That said, Fischer reckon you don't need to worry what the substrata is with these fixings as they're multi use, so I guess you just let them do their work!!
How long screws do you recommend for these fixings?
On the fischer boxes, it gives your the exact sizes. In general, a screw too short is a problem, so generally speaking pluglength + 10mm + Size sticking out of the wall, will be a good size for any plug. Also, ensure you screw plugsize + 10mm (and ensure longer then your screw) for hole drilling.
Awesome!
Thanks buddy 👊