This video is from the full review at www.newmetalworker.com/Reviews... The full review has lots of photos and details on these time and money-saving products.
Great video. I use the blue one with some electric guitar parts, mostly on a tremolo arm hole for a Ibanez Edge unit. It holds the hole, and the bolt tightly together. I did this about two years ago, and it hasn't moved one bit, considering all the abuse I throw at the trem! That, along with a DuPont teflon spray for the knife posts, has saved me hundreds on a new unit. I've had the guitar that I use it on since 1992.
re: blue, wouldn't you want to back down the torque 20%? Maybe that is the reason it took 20% more torque to break it. To be safe I always back the torque 20% because it's very easy to break or strip lubricated bolts, especially high torque specs of 100 foot pounds or more (granted 2 drops isn't much but I seem to dump it on unintentionally). I do believe the blue adds lubricity despite many opinions that is doesn't--heck the bolts turn easier (like butter) when starting them by hand with fresh loctite applied.
I guess i expected blue to have a bit more stick initially, if you work on japanese machinery, they use a clear type of locking compound, it needs extra torque to break it free, it goes with an initial snap, then has no resistance, but it certainly locks it in place, i wonder if anyone knows a product that can recreate that?
Exactly. It's like these guys don't want to find out the the torque. Did you ever find out what it was. Probably like you said. Just above where he quit.
torque wrenches should not be used for undoing fasteners and depending on the wrench and torque the wrenches can be damaged, which is why he stopped and heated the loctite
Thank you! All these other videos talking about the blue one but this one gives me information on both!
Great video. I use the blue one with some electric guitar parts, mostly on a tremolo arm hole for a Ibanez Edge unit. It holds the hole, and the bolt tightly together. I did this about two years ago, and it hasn't moved one bit, considering all the abuse I throw at the trem! That, along with a DuPont teflon spray for the knife posts, has saved me hundreds on a new unit. I've had the guitar that I use it on since 1992.
Excellent presentation. Thanks for taking the time.
Excellent video and presentation with the torque wrench.
Use 243 for stainless or other metals (and still works on steel) rather than 242.
very good overview and testing
what a great video thank you so much!
very informative, thank you!
Many thanks!
re: blue, wouldn't you want to back down the torque 20%? Maybe that is the reason it took 20% more torque to break it. To be safe I always back the torque 20% because it's very easy to break or strip lubricated bolts, especially high torque specs of 100 foot pounds or more (granted 2 drops isn't much but I seem to dump it on unintentionally). I do believe the blue adds lubricity despite many opinions that is doesn't--heck the bolts turn easier (like butter) when starting them by hand with fresh loctite applied.
Had people stealing signs in the neighborhood, used a bit of loctite red... No more problem.
I guess i expected blue to have a bit more stick initially, if you work on japanese machinery, they use a clear type of locking compound, it needs extra torque to break it free, it goes with an initial snap, then has no resistance, but it certainly locks it in place, i wonder if anyone knows a product that can recreate that?
Why did you stop at 60ft. pounds when undoing the red?
I use blue on pretty much every nut I work on.
Why did you give up at 60 ft/lbs? It would have broken loose, you were probably getting close.
Exactly. It's like these guys don't want to find out the the torque. Did you ever find out what it was. Probably like you said. Just above where he quit.
torque wrenches should not be used for undoing fasteners and depending
on the wrench and torque the wrenches can be damaged, which is why
he stopped and heated the loctite