Choosing the right paddle length... For you.
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- čas přidán 13. 01. 2024
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Great reference video.
Glad it was helpful!
Splendid - just as I am in the market for a new paddle: Ordered my first boat last week!
Congratulations! Nothing better than new boat day.
At 5-11" I have a Delta 17' ,I use a Werner Kaliste 204cm, I am a low angle paddler, but I have WIDE shoulders and somewhat a wide grip. I even like a 250cm to paddle with, but over along day it can be a tough pull. I also use an Athena 230cm as well. Every Shop and every guide has always told me that a 240-250cm is way to big for me. But having used everything from a 205-250cm paddles, the longer is MUCH more comfortable, great speed, good form, and I can last all day with them. Not everyone is the same, I think the guides out there should be just a STARTING point. Also I think it will change as time goes by and out techniques get better. Great Video, thank you.
I would love to see video of you paddling. I say in the video that it's a starting point, so in that sense I agree with you, but 240-250 is a long paddle. a buddy of mine is 6'2" and paddles the same delta as you and me. and he paddles a 230.
Another great reference video for when I buy my first kayak & paddle...thanks for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated!
My pleasure. There is a whole playlist of videos for people choosing boats and such. Good luck, have fun!!
In my big Klepper kayaks, I can give a 5'6" paddler and a 6'6" paddler the same long paddle and it works fine.
In my fast sea kayaks, I'll often take more than one paddle to accommodate different requirements at the time.
Whitewater, I go as short as I can without banging my knuckles.
I started off with the big Klepper tandem, so it was hard to go wrong with a long paddle.
I'd hate to have to pick just one paddle. The long Aleut breakdown paddle I made is my favorite, but different boats and conditions can mean different paddle lengths and types for the same paddler.
I remember when I lived in Manhattan and Klepper had a store in Union Square. I also remember when it became I bar I would regularly frequent.
@@AdventureOtaku I remember when Folbot and Feathercraft still existed.
Kleppers are an odd bird that can do virtually everything, but nothing particularly well. But a tandem Klepper can take a couple of paddlers and a couple hundred pounds of gear under paddle or sail while still fitting in two bags and lasting for decades if not overly abused.
I found that when I have been looking at different paddles when looking at what is around for a second paddle. I have an old Lendal (Scottish made one) which is 220cm and when I have found sites that give measurements I would then be looking at a 230cm based on my height. I am pretty comfortable with the 220cm, but I haven't tried a longer paddle as the Club Paddles only go up to 220 and they only have a 2 or 3. So I tend to take my own now so their are still the few we have available for others that want that size paddle. Greenland Paddles seem to be almost as bad with the different information I have found about paddle fit, but with the added fun of loom width thrown in for good measure.
I am a proponent of the “your backup paddle should be identical to your primary paddle” school of thought. If your paddle breaks the sh*T is probably going to be hitting the fan, and that is no time to go to a different paddle. My current backup is my older Werner, with a newer Werner of the same model as the primary. Yeah, I dont mess with Greenland….
Brett, very helpful video. I have been trying to switch from high to low angle. I think my issue now is how much of the blade is entering the water. Will need to check this out. Thanks for the tips. Great technical video.
Thanks Bob, great to hear from you. Hope you are well.
I was a 220 paddler for many years then I accidently bought a 230, I've never felt more powerful and my bracing is spot on I have also switched from angled to straight blade settings, So I completely agree with you, keep an open mind and try new things, you don't know what you don't know!
Exactly!
Yes, great explanation and there is one other way of looking at this. We also should consider the varying lengths of the different blades. If you normally use paddle with a longer blade (Aquabound Tango, Werner Camano or Kalliste, Lendal Voyager) and switch to a paddle with a shorter blade because you want more power or responsiveness while practicing strokes (Aquabound Whiskey, Werner Shuna or Cyprus, Lendal Storm), you can go with a shorter total paddle length to equal the same waterline location on the shaft. I use 220 for most and have between a low and high angle stroke, so I go to a 215 or 210 with these shorter blades, works out about right for me. I do see a lot of people with longer paddles than they really need - more leverage that way but also might put more strain on your shoulders in the long run. I agree it’s definitely worth trying different lengths and blade styles for every kayak.
In theory yes, you could go to a shorter paddle because the throat is “moving” closer to the tip of the paddle… but it would have to be a much shorter blade.
Looks like you need a part 2 video on this as you can't consider paddle length without talking about the length and width of the blades you intend to use. A few millimetres in blade width makes a huge difference to the overall dynamics. We are all different, even if we share the same body height: sex, age, and fitness all have to come into it. We may find the perfect paddles for ourselves and use them for many years, but as we get older (not mentioning any names!) it can be beneficial to change a blade to something slightly narrower and/or shorter in order to keep the paddling fun and easy.
No part 2 this season….
I think you identified the problem that needs resolution: that the length of the paddle is not what is critical, it’s the length between the blades. So what you want is the blade to barely submerge (assuming Euro blade) for YOU. So for me, a 215 Werner corryvrekkan (large blade) is actually a little SHORTER than the 210 werner Shauna (same style blade, just smaller. So the length of the overall paddle is irrelevant in the sizing. What each paddler needs to know is the distance in their paddle style where the blade submerges properly, then find out what irrelevant paddle length has the correct between-blade distance. The longer the blade, the longer the paddle is right for you. Overall length really means nothing, and should not be part of the conversation at all when it comes to euro blades.
I don’t even think the length between the blades is critical. What is critical is that when YOU paddle with whatever paddle and paddling style you use, the blade is at the correct depth. The number is almost irrelevant. But what is interesting is this concept of “if the blade is longer the paddle is longer” which is something I hadn’t considered. My Lendal Voyager and my Werner Camano are both 220’s… and they both actually measure 221 cm…. The blade shapes are very similar. My Werner Kalliste (just a hair wider) is actually a little shorter. By about a CM…. I wish I had a Lendal storm here to compare. But since I have access to the owner of Lendal, I may just ask him. Thanks for making me think! Great freaking comment.
Just spoke with someone from Lendal. A 220 or a 230cm paddle, regardless of blade type is 220 or 230cm. Shorter blades have more shaft - which may affect the length you choose because remember we are looking for water at the throat… I have no idea why your 215 corryvekkan is shorter than your 210 Shuna. But it shouldn’t be. I suspect there is some variation in length because both Werner and Lendal are essentially hand making paddles. But as per Lendal, blade size should not affect overall length.
Sorry @@AdventureOtaku you misunderstood me. The 215 corryvrekkan is indeed 5 cm longer than the 210 shuna. The overall lengths are as marked. However, because the blade is much bigger on the corryvrekken, the exposed handle is actually shorter. So to fit both blades so that they bury the blade at the same time, you need a longer overall paddle with a big blade to fit the same as a shorter paddle with a smaller blade.
I think I understand now.... maybe. the blades are longer from tip to throat. so to keep the throat being at the water line on your stroke you need a longer paddle shaft. Yes. I get you now. Im saying use the "formula" to get a starting point in length and then see where you end up with the blade planted correctly. You may have to go longer or shorter depending on blade type.
@@AdventureOtaku Check this out. I really struggled to get my euro paddles to paddle like they are the same length, which is why I now ignore the length and simply try to get the internal "loom length" measurement. Check out this short video so you can see how I reached my conclusions. Great video and especially love reading the comments. czcams.com/video/A-yXFY-zQX4/video.htmlsi=X972T8osD2qSPGpx
I am 6'6" in a 25" kayak, the dealer insisted i get a 230 cm because of my height. Sometimes I have 10 cm of shaft in the water, but that also depends in how high my hands are. I'm not sure basing paddle length on height makes sense, shouldn't it be torso length? I feel like I should be using a 220 cm paddle but I want to make sure my hands are at the correct height first.
He insisted because on the chart you are a 230.... actually I bet on the chart you are a 240 and he didn't have any.... But you are totally, right hand position does play into it, however, your hands should be coming across your body at shoulder/chin/eyes height. Most paddlers - myself included - allow their hands to drop, which they shouldn't do. In fact, Im going to do a video about this very topic. thank you!