Chris Valone is the MAN! His videos are the absolute best for us "newbies" who don't really know everything yet. He makes things easy for us to understand and follow. Thanks Chris!!!
Important note: When rotating the crank pulley to set at your timing mark make sure you are rotating in the direction of rotation (clockwise) before stopping. If you go past your mark, back up the pulley an inch past your intended mark and then rotate clockwise again, then stop at your mark. This keeps all the gear clearance slack on the correct side (distributor drive to crank gear AND distributor drive to the bottom of the distributor itself).
Back up means to go back, going left (opposite of right meaning, going counter clockwise) so before your mark, but then you said past the mark which would be clockwise continuation. Did you mean?: if you got past your mark (clockwise), now turn counter clockwise, and stop at one inch before your make, now proceed to go clockwise
Great video. This has to be the best video for setting the timing on CZcams... After at least a dozen others, you covered all the details that I needed. thanks!
Great car to start young , buy a good manual, Haynes or idiots guide... Start by keeping things stock spec. Aim to use the best quality parts from Germany by Bosch for electric and ignition parts, SachsBoges for clutch and shocks, Michelin Tyres , not cheap but the best, remember your life depends on them when on the freeway, on a cold,dark,wet night . That's when you will be glad not to have got the cheap chindian parts that won't last!
I'm able to keep my bug as a daily driver thanks to your videos. Other channels use highliy professional tools that cost too much for a feller to keep at home. You keep things simple and reasonable for the common folk
Also, after your timing light ignites tighten down the distributor, roll pulley counter-clockwise until light goes out. Then roll pulley clockwise and see specifically where the timing light ignites. This gives you an accurate place where ignition will happen.
I really appreciate your videos......They are very helpful.....My 1956 with an 1835 runs great thanks to you sharing your knowledge.........Thanks Chris
finally, cleaned and gaped the plugs and points. but using this timing method i nailed it. Its a great feeling with it starts and runs good, even drove it around the back yard. Thanks Chris for all the video!
Chris that an old school cool way to time the Car. Brings me back to when I was in collage and I use to drive my car with what I used to call the VW trip kit. My test light, a spare coil, belt and accelerator cable. 😀... l like this video very much.
Thanks Chris, My alternator post band clamp snapped and the old alternator moved and threw the belt. The engine got pretty hot as a result of the fan not spinning. I don't think I did any major damage. The engine is a just run in Stan Pobjoy 1600, Stan machined out to 1916cc. Twin port heads, machined cam and dual Kadron carbs with a sidewinder exhaust. It starts and runs now although it is now popping and idling rough. The plugs were pretty bad and number 4 plug lead broke when I removed it, it was cooked. I changed the oil, I put new spark plugs, new ignition leads and a new alternator. I have re wired to an internal regulator type. I noticed that the rotor button is nowhere near number 1 now on my 009 dizzy. All new parts now fitted, I will re tune tomorrow and cross my fingers. Thanks for the well explained easy to do tune. My expertise is more body and paintwork.
You are wonderful my friend Chris I am always following you and follow the instructions from you to my cars thank you very much and wish you progress always
Thank you for this video, Chris. I'm getting the exact opposite problem where I'm not getting the light to turn on at all. I'm using an SVDA distributor with a Pertronix Electronic Ignition, and Pertronix coil. From what I can see, everything is connected correctly.
This really made this easy, thank you! I'd been struggling to figure out if my timing was off, resulting in me not being able to start my sandrail. Now that I have the timing correct and it still won't start, at least I can go on to try and address other potential issues.
Nevermind, somehow it all worked out. I still used the check light as it blinked off while at TDC, and its never run better. I just needed to charge the battery and get fuel into the system. Thanks buddy, you saved me money and I had the pleasure of fixing it myself. That's what bugs are all about, right?
Hi Chris,first-up I appreciate your effort to take time to put vw newbies on the right road and you come across as a stand-up guy. I live in Ireland and have a 1200 Standard Bug daily driver for 7 years.It is a 72 marina blue with matching numbers,running og engine at 88,000 miles I did a top-end rebuild last year,so-far so-good!I am surprised to see in your timing vid. that a 009 distributor is used seeing as the engine code is a D albeit an earlier one than mine and they run sweeter in stock form with a vacuum advance distributor.009 is for flat-out foot-to-floor driving not daily drivers,unless a twin-carb setup is used.Little tip use a stock ERNST exhaust and remove the baffles from the stock pea-shooter tailpipes for cheap extra pep!
Hey brilliant tutorial ill use this method when my '61 beetle is finished. I have a question, will this work on a water-cooled engine from a T25/Vanagon?
Chris, thanks for this video, it was a big help on my first project car. I have a new one that I had do a complete replacement of the wiring loom. When I turn the key I get the two light in the speedo, but I don't get any light on my test light when doing this test. Other than recheck your connections, is there anything you can think of that I might need to do? I am really stumped at this point...
Thanks. I think this will work. I knocked the gas line off while playing with it earlier. I didn't realize I needed all those tools. Well I need a video on installing points.. We will see what happens.... lol! - Monica
Yeah you would time the same way with an electronic ignition. If you have way off readings from a static to a timing lights, could be the distributor. They should be the same.
Hi Chris great footage, just one question I know you say you time your bugs at 7.5 degrees before top dead centre is it still the same with svda distributor on a 1600 dual port with 34 pict 3 set up? Thanks
Hey Chris I really appreciate your videos! I have a question if you could find the time? My question is I was trying to rewire my bug and I done away with the voltage regulator and put the alternator on instead of the generator, what does it mean when my switch is off and the light in the car stays on, I guess its getting double fed? Also my test light stays on when I turned the switch off on the distributer like your video. Could you please help me out! Thanks for the video and keep them coming!
Hi: Thanks for your videos! it teach me a lot on how to make the adjustments of my beloved beetle. Just one question: I live in a place whit high elevation (3000mts as cusco), I've heard that when adjusting timing I have to advance more than 7 1/2 even to 15 degrees. Is there any formula to calculate that?
Holy shhh I have been chasing a misfire On the sandrail I’m restoring The video I watched said to time to TDC I’m wondering if that 7.5 degrees is where I’m going wrong and the test light trick is also something I haven’t tried So excited to try it tomorrow Thanks dude
great tutorial, does this method work with every bug? my parents got a -72 bug with vacuum advance distributor, does that make any difference with the settings?
Hi there, currently working on a 1973 1300 beetle, previous owner done majority of work, im just finishing her up. it has had a 1600cc unleaded conversion kit fitted, two twin 40mm solex carbs, Monza exhaust, bosch 009 distributor, tried to fire it up, backfired and almost set fire to right hand carb, my guess would be that the ignition timing is way out and needs adjusting, what would be your advice? Many thanks, and great video! Cheers, joe.
Not hard to take a turn signal bulb and solder a couple wires with alligator clips on them, made one myself. Clipping the ground to the carburetor linkage sure does make it easier, thank you. 😃 Early cast iron distributor set to 7,5 degrees.
Ht's all on right points now, timing it tomorrow, however getting different info for it, some say the usual 5 and 7.5BTDC however found something earlier saying 5ATDC, if you had any ideas on it that would be great as im not too used to working on bug engines! thanks again!
on my 68 with vac adv my number 1 is the where urs with out it is, i followed my wire checked the valves to confirm and as part of the tune up im doin cause its running crappy at the moment. i when i do wat u do to adjust the timing i only get a quick flicker of the light, i doesnt stay on in any spot, so ibout another test light and get the same thing so i was guessing that thats the spot i want it for my timing?
First of all very good video, I bought my wife a 74 Bus would it be the same setting as the bugs. And will this method work on the t4 porche engine. Im new to vw's so not very sure and trying to learn.
Hi, I have a few questions, Is the way your showing here the same point I would use if I was using a timing light. I checked mine today and its like 34 degrees BTDC, Why is mine so much different then yours? I am changing mine out to a electronic one instead of points and would I time it the same way as my one with the points?
I Double checked Points at .016 good gap , I actually took My coil Off to also double check + - conectors 🤔😶 Might it be the inside of the distributor it's the only part that's been untouched LoL 😅
Hi Chris should a vw air cooled engine not have a vacuum advanced distributor? I've recently changed mine to a vac adv distributor and it's running so much better, no flat spot and starts instantly! Best thing I've done to the engine (1600cc air cooled)
chris, would this cause it to use more gas or smell like gas if my beetle is not timed right? i been looking through all your videos and they been helping me out but still havent found my problem, but thanks :)
The test light just indicates that the circuit is complete right? In theory would you be able to do this with a multimeter that has a continuity test setting?
If you have a 70's VW with a double-pull distributor, you cannot time them with a test light, you HAVE to use a timing light on those.Also, it's a good idea to check the retard diaphragm on a double pull distributor as many are blown. Double-pulls are timed at idle with both vacuum hoses connected to 5 ATDC. Which is a notch to the left of the dimple on the front rim of the pulley. 411/412's are a completely different animal that are timed at around 3500 RPM TO 27 BTDC on American market fuel injected cars.
@brighteyefilms I just did what this video said and it worked! My car starts fine! but now im idling REALLY low and its misfiring all over the place and now everything else seems wrong.... what do i do!? please respond ASAP!
Hi Chris Great video ! 👍 you mentioned that when you have the shorter distributor that you set the timing with the pulley at TDC...so is that all vacuum advance distributors get timed at TDC and only the 009 gets timed at 7 1/2 before TDC ? Thanx !! 😊
@@classicvwbugs thanx for the reply ...have a few lol...was just wondering if the rule was if it has vac. Adv. Set at TDC....and no vac. Adv....set at 7 1/2 btdc
Hi Community, Excellent video and I put it into practice and it worked but my son accidentally replaced the battery and placed positive and negative backwards and I don't understand comkk ok I was able to start the car without problems at the time. It worked well for the first 2 days but today is the 3rd day and watching your video to check with the one lit by the lamp I placed the negative on the negative coil and without moving the distributor rotor I placed the peak of the lamp on the bottom dealer and turn on.
Hi Chris, my family has had the same Beetle for 51yrs ,it’s been stored in my Dads garage for 40yrs ,we are going to try to get it back to life again ,it’s a 1964 Vw beetle 1200 6volt what fuel should I put in it ? Cheers Jon
If you are on the road and you have no test lamp on hand simply disconnect the cable from the oil pressure switch and use the oil pressure indicator as your test lamp. You have to look through the rear window to see the lamp. The other end of the lamp ist connected to plus 12 or 6 Volt. So all you need is the wrench with the 10 mm socket. So the beetle comes with a built-in monitor for ignition timing. How cool is that.
Chris, what about max advance timing. I have a 1300cc with a 009 cent advance distributor. I time it with the gun at 7.5 btdc. should I also be timing it 17-24 degrees at 3500 rpm with the gun for the high rpm max advance? Steve
I have a quick question. Is a classic Volkswagen beetle a good daily driver. I'm 15 and my dad is looking for a vehicle that I can drive and I really want a Volkswagen beetle. I would get one made after 1968 because of the price but my dad is worried that a older bug wouldnt be a good daily driver for me and he would also use the car to drive to work sometimes. MPG?
Chris Valone is the MAN! His videos are the absolute best for us "newbies" who don't really know everything yet. He makes things easy for us to understand and follow. Thanks Chris!!!
thank you so much!
No more dying at idle! You’re an amazing teacher man thank you so much
Just restoring the 66 bug I drove in High School back in the early 90's for my sophomore son. You're videos are invaluable! Thank you for making them.
Important note: When rotating the crank pulley to set at your timing mark make sure you are rotating in the direction of rotation (clockwise) before stopping. If you go past your mark, back up the pulley an inch past your intended mark and then rotate clockwise again, then stop at your mark. This keeps all the gear clearance slack on the correct side (distributor drive to crank gear AND distributor drive to the bottom of the distributor itself).
I do that, good thinkin bro.
Good advice Michael, thanks,
Back up means to go back, going left (opposite of right meaning, going counter clockwise) so before your mark, but then you said past the mark which would be clockwise continuation. Did you mean?: if you got past your mark (clockwise), now turn counter clockwise, and stop at one inch before your make, now proceed to go clockwise
@@DEATHWISHVQ8:09
F
Thank you for all your contributions to the veedub community. Your how-to videos are a big help in keeping my bug alive!
So nice of you
Great video. This has to be the best video for setting the timing on CZcams... After at least a dozen others, you covered all the details that I needed. thanks!
Worked like magic! OH how I needed You And CZcams 30 years ago! Thanks!
I'm only 16 and wanting to fix up an old bug. I have very little mechanical experience, but your videos are so kiss.
Great car to start young , buy a good manual, Haynes or idiots guide... Start by keeping things stock spec. Aim to use the best quality parts from Germany by Bosch for electric and ignition parts, SachsBoges for clutch and shocks, Michelin Tyres , not cheap but the best, remember your life depends on them when on the freeway, on a cold,dark,wet night . That's when you will be glad not to have got the cheap chindian parts that won't last!
Thanks again Chris. Never knew that could be done. Thanks for all the time you put into the art.
I'm able to keep my bug as a daily driver thanks to your videos.
Other channels use highliy professional tools that cost too much for a feller to keep at home. You keep things simple and reasonable for the common folk
Chris you info is invaluable for a VW newbie like me who ain't too SMRT!
THANKS FELLA
Phil
Also, after your timing light ignites tighten down the distributor, roll pulley counter-clockwise until light goes out. Then roll pulley clockwise and see specifically where the timing light ignites. This gives you an accurate place where ignition will happen.
I really appreciate your videos......They are very helpful.....My 1956 with an 1835 runs great thanks to you sharing your knowledge.........Thanks Chris
finally, cleaned and gaped the plugs and points. but using this timing method i nailed it. Its a great feeling with it starts and runs good, even drove it around the back yard. Thanks Chris for all the video!
ah you are welcome my friend.
Just wanted to say thanks for this tip man! I just did it and it worked flawlessly.
Chris that an old school cool way to time the Car. Brings me back to when I was in collage and I use to drive my car with what I used to call the VW trip kit. My test light, a spare coil, belt and accelerator cable. 😀... l like this video very much.
Sorry typo ... when I was in college 😀😀
Thank you for the help we've got from you. Specifically for the value degree of timing marks.
Thanks Chris brilliant help you give . Details on how fix vw beetles is a valuable service for me and the other viewer's .
Thanks Chris, My alternator post band clamp snapped and the old alternator moved and threw the belt. The engine got pretty hot as a result of the fan not spinning. I don't think I did any major damage. The engine is a just run in Stan Pobjoy 1600, Stan machined out to 1916cc. Twin port heads, machined cam and dual Kadron carbs with a sidewinder exhaust. It starts and runs now although it is now popping and idling rough. The plugs were pretty bad and number 4 plug lead broke when I removed it, it was cooked. I changed the oil, I put new spark plugs, new ignition leads and a new alternator. I have re wired to an internal regulator type. I noticed that the rotor button is nowhere near number 1 now on my 009 dizzy. All new parts now fitted, I will re tune tomorrow and cross my fingers. Thanks for the well explained easy to do tune. My expertise is more body and paintwork.
Your video was very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to do this for people like us
Just saying thanks for all the good videos. Took mine for the first good drive last night and your videos were a big part of the process.
Very cool 👍 thanks so much.
You have to be able to time it statically regardless. You have to make sure the timing light is on the neg side of the coil.
Great video, just used this and your valve video as a reference. Just bought a second vw sandrail and trying to get it all tuned up!
You are wonderful my friend Chris I am always following you and follow the instructions from you to my cars thank you very much and wish you progress always
Thank you for this video, Chris. I'm getting the exact opposite problem where I'm not getting the light to turn on at all. I'm using an SVDA distributor with a Pertronix Electronic Ignition, and Pertronix coil. From what I can see, everything is connected correctly.
This really made this easy, thank you! I'd been struggling to figure out if my timing was off, resulting in me not being able to start my sandrail. Now that I have the timing correct and it still won't start, at least I can go on to try and address other potential issues.
Brilliant ! Just one thing was missing at the end, to start to engine and listen to it ! Thanks a million though !
Thanks a lot. Very HELPFUL, my pulley has the front dimple and the 5.5 degrees ATDC and was NOT SURE what to do. THANKS A LOT AGAIN.
As always... great instructions and in layman terms!! Thanks
Thank you for a great lesson no chatter no blah blah blah just to the point!
Excellent video! Had all the info i need to clear up the confusion of why my pullee had 2 marks and not 3. Thank you!
Nevermind, somehow it all worked out. I still used the check light as it blinked off while at TDC, and its never run better. I just needed to charge the battery and get fuel into the system. Thanks buddy, you saved me money and I had the pleasure of fixing it myself. That's what bugs are all about, right?
you saved my nerves my money and my Bug; Master i am thankful for every detail you showed us.., 🙏
wow thank you, those are some crazy words. Just here to help you guys! =)
Hi Chris,first-up I appreciate your effort to take time to put vw newbies on the right road and you come across as a stand-up guy. I live in Ireland and have a 1200 Standard Bug daily driver for 7 years.It is a 72 marina blue with matching numbers,running og engine at 88,000 miles I did a top-end rebuild last year,so-far so-good!I am surprised to see in your timing vid. that a 009 distributor is used seeing as the engine code is a D albeit an earlier one than mine and they run sweeter in stock form with a vacuum advance distributor.009 is for flat-out foot-to-floor driving not daily drivers,unless a twin-carb setup is used.Little tip use a stock ERNST exhaust and remove the baffles from the stock pea-shooter tailpipes for cheap extra pep!
Thank you. Wish you were here in Colorado Springs I would have you work on my van.
Thanks for mentioning the 'stubby' distributor - this is what I've got and was always slightly out.
Hey brilliant tutorial ill use this method when my '61 beetle is finished. I have a question, will this work on a water-cooled engine from a T25/Vanagon?
Ty Very much! First time working on my Bug. Much sucess to you. 🙏💚
Mate brilliant video and very helpful and easy to understand
Dizzy? Lol. Another good video. I'm glad you said the part about the split in the block reference
The only video that makes sence. Thank you!
Awesome! Thank you very much! I was wondering if there's anyway I can replace the engine bay seals without drooping the engine?
Chris, thanks for this video, it was a big help on my first project car. I have a new one that I had do a complete replacement of the wiring loom. When I turn the key I get the two light in the speedo, but I don't get any light on my test light when doing this test. Other than recheck your connections, is there anything you can think of that I might need to do? I am really stumped at this point...
It is 10 30PM Friday night and I watched this video, I know you must be tried of people thanking you, but thanks for sharing this is a big help.
ah it is all good man, you are very welcome! =o)
Thanks. I think this will work. I knocked the gas line off while playing with it earlier. I didn't realize I needed all those tools. Well I need a video on installing points.. We will see what happens.... lol!
- Monica
Brilliant video!
amazing video thanks for sharing im going too try this later this week on my bug
Yeah you would time the same way with an electronic ignition. If you have way off readings from a static to a timing lights, could be the distributor. They should be the same.
Hi Chris great footage, just one question I know you say you time your bugs at 7.5 degrees before top dead centre is it still the same with svda distributor on a 1600 dual port with 34 pict 3 set up? Thanks
Just checking to make sure if I have spark advance I set it straight up at 0 top dead center right? Thanks
Hey Chris I really appreciate your videos! I have a question if you could find the time? My question is I was trying to rewire my bug and I done away with the voltage regulator and put the alternator on instead of the generator, what does it mean when my switch is off and the light in the car stays on, I guess its getting double fed? Also my test light stays on when I turned the switch off on the distributer like your video. Could you please help me out! Thanks for the video and keep them coming!
Great video Vallone!
Turn the key off...yer makin me nervous. You have the best VW content. Is it a block, a case, a motor, an engine??? Who cares...it's a V - Dub.
Ok that was ridiculously easy!!, thanks for sharing the super secret and "how to"...
You're awesome dude. Perfect explanation.
Thank you so much 👍
Hi: Thanks for your videos! it teach me a lot on how to make the adjustments of my beloved beetle. Just one question: I live in a place whit high elevation (3000mts as cusco), I've heard that when adjusting timing I have to advance more than 7 1/2 even to 15 degrees. Is there any formula to calculate that?
The green vacuum ball must take care of it...
Holy shhh
I have been chasing a misfire
On the sandrail I’m restoring
The video I watched said to time to TDC
I’m wondering if that 7.5 degrees is where I’m going wrong
and the test light trick is also something I haven’t tried
So excited to try it tomorrow
Thanks dude
Thank you. This was extremely helpful!
great tutorial, does this method work with every bug? my parents got a -72 bug with vacuum advance distributor, does that make any difference with the settings?
Hi there, currently working on a 1973 1300 beetle, previous owner done majority of work, im just finishing her up. it has had a 1600cc unleaded conversion kit fitted, two twin 40mm solex carbs, Monza exhaust, bosch 009 distributor, tried to fire it up, backfired and almost set fire to right hand carb, my guess would be that the ignition timing is way out and needs adjusting, what would be your advice?
Many thanks, and great video!
Cheers, joe.
Hey Chris,
I was wondering if this will work with a electronic ignition? Because it has a negative and positive wire connected to the coil.
Not hard to take a turn signal bulb and solder a couple wires with alligator clips on them, made one myself. Clipping the ground to the carburetor linkage sure does make it easier, thank you. 😃
Early cast iron distributor set to 7,5 degrees.
Thanks mate, solved my puzzle too!
Ht's all on right points now, timing it tomorrow, however getting different info for it, some say the usual 5 and 7.5BTDC however found something earlier saying 5ATDC, if you had any ideas on it that would be great as im not too used to working on bug engines! thanks again!
Thanks for the tutorial! Can you use this same method with an SVDA distributor with an electronic ignition system?
you can, but some electronic ignitions do not work with the test light, some do some dont.
on my 68 with vac adv my number 1 is the where urs with out it is, i followed my wire checked the valves to confirm and as part of the tune up im doin cause its running crappy at the moment. i when i do wat u do to adjust the timing i only get a quick flicker of the light, i doesnt stay on in any spot, so ibout another test light and get the same thing so i was guessing that thats the spot i want it for my timing?
As you move the pulley will the rotor move to 1 at the same time? or do you have to lift off and move to pos 1, as i have electric ignition
First of all very good video, I bought my wife a 74 Bus would it be the same setting as the bugs. And will this method work on the t4 porche engine. Im new to vw's so not very sure and trying to learn.
ayyy 4 months later after getting motivation to work on my bug im back on this video lol
My mind is blown!! 🤯🤯🤯
@AMRIE21 If you look under his videos, he has two videos (part 1 and part 2) on how to adjust your valves.
Good luck with the beetle!
@Chris Vallone - When you intall electronic ignition like Pertronix, do you use static timing at first? Thanks!
You can try it yeah. Sometimes it works, sometimes not, depends on the brand of the unit.
Hi, I have a few questions, Is the way your showing here the same point I would use if I was using a timing light. I checked mine today and its like 34 degrees BTDC, Why is mine so much different then yours? I am changing mine out to a electronic one instead of points and would I time it the same way as my one with the points?
your points might be too tight or you have the light hooked up to the positive side of the coil.
I Double checked Points at .016 good gap , I actually took My coil Off to also double check + - conectors 🤔😶 Might it be the inside of the distributor it's the only part that's been untouched LoL 😅
Hi Chris should a vw air cooled engine not have a vacuum advanced distributor? I've recently changed mine to a vac adv distributor and it's running so much better, no flat spot and starts instantly! Best thing I've done to the engine (1600cc air cooled)
Yes they all came with a vacuum advance, except the early years up to 53 oval in the 25hp era. A 1600dp motor runs much better with a vacuum advance.
Thanks for the video. Do you know what the test lights are actually called?
chris, would this cause it to use more gas or smell like gas if my beetle is not timed right? i been looking through all your videos and they been helping me out but still havent found my problem, but thanks :)
The test light just indicates that the circuit is complete right? In theory would you be able to do this with a multimeter that has a continuity test setting?
this video is great.. one question when i hook my light up it stays on it doesnt go off ever. what could that be . thank s
School of Vallone Works, Inc.
👍 Thx for clear instructions!
Great video ! Any chance you or anyone knows If this still works with pertronix? Thanks
If you have a 70's VW with a double-pull distributor, you cannot time them with a test light, you HAVE to use a timing light on those.Also, it's a good idea to check the retard diaphragm on a double pull distributor as many are blown. Double-pulls are timed at idle with both vacuum hoses connected to 5 ATDC. Which is a notch to the left of the dimple on the front rim of the pulley. 411/412's are a completely different animal that are timed at around 3500 RPM TO 27 BTDC on American market fuel injected cars.
Thank you.great info.
Hey Chris great vid, quick question. What if you have the short stubby distributor with the vacuum advance? What are those timed to? Thanks in advance
usually 0
Thanks for your help!
@brighteyefilms I just did what this video said and it worked! My car starts fine! but now im idling REALLY low and its misfiring all over the place and now everything else seems wrong.... what do i do!? please respond ASAP!
Hi
My 72 1200 bug has a pulley with a dimple and a v opposite is this set at 7.5? also running a vacuum advanced dizzy.
Hi Chris Great video ! 👍 you mentioned that when you have the shorter distributor that you set the timing with the pulley at TDC...so is that all vacuum advance distributors get timed at TDC and only the 009 gets timed at 7 1/2 before TDC ? Thanx !! 😊
what year bug do you have? Most if not all short stubby distributors set at TDC. Anything tall like the 009s, go 7.5BTDC
@@classicvwbugs thanx for the reply ...have a few lol...was just wondering if the rule was if it has vac. Adv. Set at TDC....and no vac. Adv....set at 7 1/2 btdc
Hi Community, Excellent video and I put it into practice and it worked but my son accidentally replaced the battery and placed positive and negative backwards and I don't understand comkk ok I was able to start the car without problems at the time. It worked well for the first 2 days but today is the 3rd day and watching your video to check with the one lit by the lamp I placed the negative on the negative coil and without moving the distributor rotor I placed the peak of the lamp on the bottom dealer and turn on.
Hi Chris, my family has had the same Beetle for 51yrs ,it’s been stored in my Dads garage for 40yrs ,we are going to try to get it back to life again ,it’s a 1964 Vw beetle 1200 6volt what fuel should I put in it ? Cheers Jon
Aqui no Brasil, devido a mistura de álcool na gasolina, geralmente deixamos o ponto de ignição entre 12,5 e 15 graus.
How does the test light turn on if it is on the negative side? Doesnt it need a power?
Love it that's a wonderful little cheat
Does this work for the fuel injection beetle with the dual vacuum advance?
If you are on the road and you have no test lamp on hand simply disconnect the cable from the oil pressure switch and use the oil pressure indicator as your test lamp. You have to look through the rear window to see the lamp. The other end of the lamp ist connected to plus 12 or 6 Volt. So all you need is the wrench with the 10 mm socket. So the beetle comes with a built-in monitor for ignition timing. How cool is that.
Or just go buy a $3 test light at HFT
Brilliant! I'll try it with mine
Chris, what about max advance timing. I have a 1300cc with a 009 cent advance distributor. I time it with the gun at 7.5 btdc. should I also be timing it 17-24 degrees at 3500 rpm with the gun for the high rpm max advance?
Steve
thanks for sharing this video..AMG
sup chris i wanted to know about the vacuum wat does it exactly do and wat doess the condenser do how do i know if its not working thanks
I have a quick question. Is a classic Volkswagen beetle a good daily driver. I'm 15 and my dad is looking for a vehicle that I can drive and I really want a Volkswagen beetle. I would get one made after 1968 because of the price but my dad is worried that a older bug wouldnt be a good daily driver for me and he would also use the car to drive to work sometimes. MPG?
Thanks for the video i have a full injected beetle how can i do it